In this video, Hal changes the oil in our 1998 American Tradition by Fleetwood (Spartan Chassis). Refer to your manual for oil type and oil filter type.
Thank you for the walkthrough on the oil change. We have a family of 7 and vacation with our American Eagle 2001 (spartan chassis). I’m pretty handy but I wasn’t sure about tackling this job. You showed me exactly what I needed to see… complete with a child offering unsolicited help. May grace and mercy pave the road ahead of you.
Somebody probably already said, the magnet on the drain plug is to catch any metal particles that might be shed by the engine internals. Sometimes that magnet is in the base of the oil pan.
Wow, Great job. Minimal oil drops/drips if any. Very clean job. I usually put a cloth and towels in the "work area" under the motor and filter, just in case. Then again I'm Overkill at anything I do. LOL. But you're so expert you didn't need it. Don't forget to write the Date and Mileage on your new oil filter Don't forget your Fuel/water separator filter and fuel filter.
I've always kept large sheets of cardboard, I lay down prior to doing our own coaches oil/fuel filter changes, where some large purchased items come in large boxes, so I cut the sides of the box, and keep them for such things. Much nicer sliding around on cardboard, that my driveway as well.
30+ years of Diesels maintenance experience on up to, 700+ vehicle fleets. Magnet is to collect ANY metal burrs in / from your engine. no. 1, should NEVER SEE ANY of significance. no. 2, IF you do, you got issues an oil change only helps reduce the amount of shavings going BACK INTO your engine. Filters, in this position ALWAYS get 'pre-filled' and ONLY hand tightened after wiping the O-ring and often replacing the seal on your drain pan plug (plastic or copper to facilitate 'forming' to your drain pan). Please, use a wrench ONLY to facilitate getting these things OFF. NOT, putting them on, past, barely tight. Don't forget to lube the chassis and drive train while down there (do this while oil COMPLETELY DRAINS) and inspect the brakes (learn to replace air chambers and adjust slack adjusters, it's REALLY EASY TO DO yet it IS DANGEROUS, to the point of life threatening IF done incorrectly) and airlines (AIR RIDE SUSPENSION?) for cracking / wear, brake chambers, any hose springs bent fittings from debris kicked up possibly. ALSO, inspect the exhaust hangers and possibly the 'flex' pipe. NOTORIUSLY RUSTED CLAMPS on these diesel flex pipe exhaust hangers. I dunno why. But, would be wise to swap out the exhaust clamps before they rust to the point of braking or requiring HEAT to remove them. I use white out to mark frame bolts TO INSURE they aren't loose i.e. transmission cross members aka brackets. Good video for just oil change though. Basics. The occasion to crawl under a vehicle is maybe < 1% of the time YOU are in the vehicle. Please, take advantage of this opportunity to get to know your rig, intimately, from down here. It IS= to the foundation of your home. P.S. WARNING: please, insure your OLD OIL FILTER GASKET CAME OFF! I failed to do this once and the mess took hours to clean up and cost me more oil. It makes quite the (U.S. Imperial gallons) mess when you DON'T Get that old O-ring off and the new filter somehow allows it to leak out. Yuck
Great insight. I’d love to see a video from ya on these things. I generally know what you’re talking about, but just as with this video, one picture (or video) is worth a thousand words. Thanks!
I have a 1992 fleetwood bounder i been wanting to do oil change but I’m scared to do it now that I discovered your Chanel and watching you doing it I may do it my self
It's not excessively difficult, more less just time consuming. NOT making a mess is the hard part, so putting something on the ground (I use large sheets of cardboard I've kept from boxes in the past) and the oil filter is somewhat heavy to lift into place, so being patient is the key to getting it started screwed in. Having slippery hands/fingers doesn't help, so making sure the filter (and hands) prior to putting it up there truly helps, as I use latex gloves giving me a better grip as well).
I tend to wear latex gloves when I do my Cummins oil changes, plus a clean pair makes spinning the new filter on, a little easier I've found. I tend to change out both fuel filters (one is a moisture separator) while under the coach as well, and to fill them both, prior to installation as well. Apparently, it's important when filling, to pour clean fuel from the outside of the filter (not to the centre) so it will get filtered prior to getting to the injectors. Additionally, I've added a Fumoto valve, rather than using the bung bolt on the oil pan, so I can start & stop the flow of oil coming out, as I just keep my last jugs, and fill them up right from laying under the coach, so I can just stop the flow when one jug is full, put the cap on, then do the next jug....until all oil is out, basically eliminating the element of having to do that job later! I have also done a grease job while under there as well, usually every second oil/filter change. Of course the oil one uses is up to the individual, and I've been using a Rosella T5 which is a blend of regular oil and synthetic, as often the price isn't all that much more, but certainly isn't a must, but I pay the extra few $ for it giving me a bit more confidence on quality. It can be a messy job, but you know it's been done correctly, and you've saved the labor cost, which can be a big saving overall. I tend to always check a few different "oil change TH-cam videos" prior to doing my own, just to keep the mind fresh on not forgetting something, and possibly learning something new each time! Thanks for sharing this one!
You should wipe off any oil drips, such as that when you filled the oil up. That would enable to you identify actual leaks and keeps the engine clean. I would also recommend the use of a drop cloth to catch stray oil drips that we can see on the pavement. I would also recommend the use of an assistant to hold the oil bottles steady as you pour the used oil in. Otherwise ... great video, takes the mystery out of the process. Should note that some oil filters are accessed through the cabin of the vehicle, might have to fill the oil from there, too.
I agree! I call my wife out, assisting to hold my setup in place, as mine are up quite high where I need a ladder while pouring into a funnel that my wife is holding up!
The oil pan plug is magnetic so you will know if your engine is making metal. It's very important to thoroughly clean it prior to re-installing the plug. So next oil change, you will know if you are starting to have an issue.
Thanks Hal, I received an estimate for an oil change. $700.00 by a Mobil company. Yuk! Will be doing my own. Thanks for the video. I used to change my oil in my cars and trucks, until I got to be an old fart.
Well I see several told you about overtighting the oil filter. Good advice, because you will for sure need that tool to get that one off in 7k miles or so. Now to the biggie. Don't let your child get under there with you. You had no visible jack stands only the leveling jacks holding that motorhome up. That is very dangerous. An oil leak can cause them to release within a second. It can crush you.
Can someone please explain to me why you have to pre-fill the oil filter before putting it on? Also, are you supposed to pre-fill oil filters on cars before you put them on? I always knew you’re supposed to hit the O-rings with oil, but I personally never pre-fill oil filter on my car.
Some holy rollers will say you broke the cardinal sin that is a prefilled oil filter.... I sin as well but have made the habit of filling through the outside holes, all but eliminating the worry of foreign object contamination.
You did right, but make sure the oil in the filter does or does not count against your total oil needed. If it says 6 gallons, does that include the pre-filled filter? If it includes the 1 gal in the filter and you put in 6 more, you’re in trouble. Just food for thought. Also, always better to put a little too little than a little too much oil.
@@chasinthechaffees5576 what he's talking about is putting the oil through the middle hole. Some super staunch people suggest putting the oil through the smaller outer holes because it gets filtered before it gets pulled out of the filter itself. When it goes through the middle hole it goes straight to the engine then gets filtered later on when it comes back to the filter. Is there potential something could happen, maybe. Will it happen and ruin everything if you feel it through the middle, most likely not. That's what he's saying though. I just found that out myself not too long ago haha
I didn’t see you change the fuel filter that’s also important when changing oil not to mention greasing the chassis. Good job though on the oil change.
Consult your Manual (to your rig). However after the 1st 3 changes Cummins says it's ok to change every 15-20 thousand miles. I change mine every 4-6 thousand miles, mainly because I'm bored (and retired).
Nice how to vid but many of today's Diesel Pusher owners would gladly leave this work to the RV shops due to the huge volume of used oil that must be dealt with. Not many DP owners if any have the storage space, time nor patience to deal with up to 44 quarts (11 gallons) of used motor oil. Automobile oil changes are quite simple and easy but big Diesel engines are a different animal especially when it comes to getting that used oil properly disposed of at an oil recycling center.
Yeah, Nah, Bullshit. When you show any body a Bill for $700 to $799 for an Oil change, they definitely won't mind doing this oil change on their own. I'll gladly go to walmart or Autozone and dispose of my own oil to avoid paying 700 dollars.
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"Make sure that doesn't spill, OK?" The most trust a father ever gives to a child. 😊
What I enjoyed most, is the precious moment between father and son. We need more dads to step up. 😎❤
Thank you for the walkthrough on the oil change. We have a family of 7 and vacation with our American Eagle 2001 (spartan chassis). I’m pretty handy but I wasn’t sure about tackling this job. You showed me exactly what I needed to see… complete with a child offering unsolicited help. May grace and mercy pave the road ahead of you.
Somebody probably already said, the magnet on the drain plug is to catch any metal particles that might be shed by the engine internals. Sometimes that magnet is in the base of the oil pan.
Wow, Great job. Minimal oil drops/drips if any. Very clean job. I usually put a cloth and towels in the "work area" under the motor and filter, just in case. Then again I'm Overkill at anything I do. LOL. But you're so expert you didn't need it. Don't forget to write the Date and Mileage on your new oil filter
Don't forget your Fuel/water separator filter and fuel filter.
I've always kept large sheets of cardboard, I lay down prior to doing our own coaches oil/fuel filter changes, where some large purchased items come in large boxes, so I cut the sides of the box, and keep them for such things. Much nicer sliding around on cardboard, that my driveway as well.
30+ years of Diesels maintenance experience on up to, 700+ vehicle fleets. Magnet is to collect ANY metal burrs in / from your engine. no. 1, should NEVER SEE ANY of significance. no. 2, IF you do, you got issues an oil change only helps reduce the amount of shavings going BACK INTO your engine. Filters, in this position ALWAYS get 'pre-filled' and ONLY hand tightened after wiping the O-ring and often replacing the seal on your drain pan plug (plastic or copper to facilitate 'forming' to your drain pan). Please, use a wrench ONLY to facilitate getting these things OFF. NOT, putting them on, past, barely tight. Don't forget to lube the chassis and drive train while down there (do this while oil COMPLETELY DRAINS) and inspect the brakes (learn to replace air chambers and adjust slack adjusters, it's REALLY EASY TO DO yet it IS DANGEROUS, to the point of life threatening IF done incorrectly) and airlines (AIR RIDE SUSPENSION?) for cracking / wear, brake chambers, any hose springs bent fittings from debris kicked up possibly. ALSO, inspect the exhaust hangers and possibly the 'flex' pipe. NOTORIUSLY RUSTED CLAMPS on these diesel flex pipe exhaust hangers. I dunno why. But, would be wise to swap out the exhaust clamps before they rust to the point of braking or requiring HEAT to remove them. I use white out to mark frame bolts TO INSURE they aren't loose i.e. transmission cross members aka brackets. Good video for just oil change though. Basics. The occasion to crawl under a vehicle is maybe < 1% of the time YOU are in the vehicle. Please, take advantage of this opportunity to get to know your rig, intimately, from down here. It IS= to the foundation of your home. P.S. WARNING: please, insure your OLD OIL FILTER GASKET CAME OFF! I failed to do this once and the mess took hours to clean up and cost me more oil. It makes quite the (U.S. Imperial gallons) mess when you DON'T Get that old O-ring off and the new filter somehow allows it to leak out. Yuck
Great insight. I’d love to see a video from ya on these things. I generally know what you’re talking about, but just as with this video, one picture (or video) is worth a thousand words. Thanks!
Nice commentary. You definitely should make a video.
Really don't need to tighten with a wrench, maybe 1/4 turn after you hand tighten. Good job doing this yourself. You save so much money this way.
I have a 1992 fleetwood bounder i been wanting to do oil change but I’m scared to do it now that I discovered your Chanel and watching you doing it I may do it my self
It's not excessively difficult, more less just time consuming. NOT making a mess is the hard part, so putting something on the ground (I use large sheets of cardboard I've kept from boxes in the past) and the oil filter is somewhat heavy to lift into place, so being patient is the key to getting it started screwed in. Having slippery hands/fingers doesn't help, so making sure the filter (and hands) prior to putting it up there truly helps, as I use latex gloves giving me a better grip as well).
I tend to wear latex gloves when I do my Cummins oil changes, plus a clean pair makes spinning the new filter on, a little easier I've found. I tend to change out both fuel filters (one is a moisture separator) while under the coach as well, and to fill them both, prior to installation as well. Apparently, it's important when filling, to pour clean fuel from the outside of the filter (not to the centre) so it will get filtered prior to getting to the injectors. Additionally, I've added a Fumoto valve, rather than using the bung bolt on the oil pan, so I can start & stop the flow of oil coming out, as I just keep my last jugs, and fill them up right from laying under the coach, so I can just stop the flow when one jug is full, put the cap on, then do the next jug....until all oil is out, basically eliminating the element of having to do that job later! I have also done a grease job while under there as well, usually every second oil/filter change. Of course the oil one uses is up to the individual, and I've been using a Rosella T5 which is a blend of regular oil and synthetic, as often the price isn't all that much more, but certainly isn't a must, but I pay the extra few $ for it giving me a bit more confidence on quality. It can be a messy job, but you know it's been done correctly, and you've saved the labor cost, which can be a big saving overall. I tend to always check a few different "oil change TH-cam videos" prior to doing my own, just to keep the mind fresh on not forgetting something, and possibly learning something new each time! Thanks for sharing this one!
You should wipe off any oil drips, such as that when you filled the oil up. That would enable to you identify actual leaks and keeps the engine clean. I would also recommend the use of a drop cloth to catch stray oil drips that we can see on the pavement. I would also recommend the use of an assistant to hold the oil bottles steady as you pour the used oil in.
Otherwise ... great video, takes the mystery out of the process. Should note that some oil filters are accessed through the cabin of the vehicle, might have to fill the oil from there, too.
I agree! I call my wife out, assisting to hold my setup in place, as mine are up quite high where I need a ladder while pouring into a funnel that my wife is holding up!
Transfluid and the two filters are just as easy. Most motorhomes have the deep pan Allison 3000 series.
why tighten the filter so much? you will distort the gasket and cause an oil leak if you do, plus it will be hell to get off next time
The oil pan plug is magnetic so you will know if your engine is making metal. It's very important to thoroughly clean it prior to re-installing the plug. So next oil change, you will know if you are starting to have an issue.
Thanks Hal, I received an estimate for an oil change.
$700.00 by a Mobil company. Yuk! Will be doing my own. Thanks for the video. I used to change my oil in my cars and trucks, until I got to be an old fart.
Well I see several told you about overtighting the oil filter. Good advice, because you will for sure need that tool to get that one off in 7k miles or so.
Now to the biggie. Don't let your child get under there with you. You had no visible jack stands only the leveling jacks holding that motorhome up. That is very dangerous. An oil leak can cause them to release within a second. It can crush you.
@@vincentp.chianese2873 I thought about that but since the tires were on the rig I figured we were ok.
There is very little room under there. Don't take the chance.
I got a Fumoto drain valve from ebay for my Cat ...soo much easier to deal with.
You can buy Rotella oil at Tractor Supply in 5 Gallon plastic containers, just saying, haven’t found anywhere cheeper either.
Make sure is Shell 15W -40 Sintetic.Is good to put 1/2 gal.Motorkote.
Good video! Can you make one on how to replace the air filter?
Awesome job mate.
Can someone please explain to me why you have to pre-fill the oil filter before putting it on? Also, are you supposed to pre-fill oil filters on cars before you put them on? I always knew you’re supposed to hit the O-rings with oil, but I personally never pre-fill oil filter on my car.
Have you come back yet
Some holy rollers will say you broke the cardinal sin that is a prefilled oil filter.... I sin as well but have made the habit of filling through the outside holes, all but eliminating the worry of foreign object contamination.
The filter said to pre fill it. That’s the only reason I did.
You did right, but make sure the oil in the filter does or does not count against your total oil needed. If it says 6 gallons, does that include the pre-filled filter? If it includes the 1 gal in the filter and you put in 6 more, you’re in trouble. Just food for thought. Also, always better to put a little too little than a little too much oil.
@@chasinthechaffees5576 what he's talking about is putting the oil through the middle hole. Some super staunch people suggest putting the oil through the smaller outer holes because it gets filtered before it gets pulled out of the filter itself. When it goes through the middle hole it goes straight to the engine then gets filtered later on when it comes back to the filter. Is there potential something could happen, maybe. Will it happen and ruin everything if you feel it through the middle, most likely not. That's what he's saying though. I just found that out myself not too long ago haha
Nice job.
Next time put a tarp down.
I'm sure the church would appreciate it 😌
Good thought, thanks!
its magnetic so if there is any metal getting into the oil pan it will hopefully get stuck on the plug
Good job
Good Job
Nice job
Very good
Do you know how to replace a/c V-belt on Fleetwood Discovery Model T 1998.5 5.9
I didn’t see you change the fuel filter that’s also important when changing oil not to mention greasing the chassis.
Good job though on the oil change.
We have a dirty fuel tank so we change it every 500 miles or so
changing the oil is not the issue it's what you do with the used oil and filters
Most stores the sell the oil have tanke to receive used oil. Even Wally World. ( Wall Mart )
What type and size engine ?
Hmm, 5.5 Gallons of oil? Should be a 8.3L, between 300 Hp and 350Hp
How many miles before you need another oil change?
Consult your Manual (to your rig). However after the 1st 3 changes Cummins says it's ok to change every 15-20 thousand miles. I change mine every 4-6 thousand miles, mainly because I'm bored (and retired).
Nice how to vid but many of today's Diesel Pusher owners would gladly leave this work to the RV shops due to the huge volume of used oil that must be dealt with. Not many DP owners if any have the storage space, time nor patience to deal with up to 44 quarts (11 gallons) of used motor oil. Automobile oil changes are quite simple and easy but big Diesel engines are a different animal especially when it comes to getting that used oil properly disposed of at an oil recycling center.
The place I bought the oil from (autozone) took my used oil.
Yeah, Nah, Bullshit. When you show any body a Bill for $700 to $799 for an Oil change, they definitely won't mind doing this oil change on their own. I'll gladly go to walmart or Autozone and dispose of my own oil to avoid paying 700 dollars.
Sounds like a you problem, not an everyone problem....
You can't put 5 gallons of oil in your engine bro.