I know it's been nearly a decade but I just found this video and it's incredibly useful! I was looking to modify Earthrise Arcee with some replacement parts, and I was told that I needed a way to punch out the pins to add in the new pieces. This looks like a really great way to customise that figure! (considering it's a 100% shellformer I don't feel like I'm missing out on it not transforming. I can literally just have the car sitting on a shelf next to the inner toy now, haha)
If anybody wants to know where to find an "automatic center punch", try the hardware store. They should be nestled next to the hammers (as it's intended to be a hammer substitute).
That's actually the most useful demonstration on pin removal I've yet seen. Too often the prospect of toy customisation goes out the window the moment it becomes necessary to remove these pain-in-the-arse pins. This looks easier & less destructive than some of the other methods I've seen, particularly the "heat the pin with a soldering iron" method (which has always sounded daft in my opinion). Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for watching! How much did the automatic center punch cost? $15 at my local Home Depot. Keep in mind that I live in Canada so if you're in the USA, the price will probably be closer to $10.
Thanks for watching and comment is noted. I did try to shorten the video a bit but I figured that at just over 5 and a half minutes, I think it's more than a reasonable length of time to thoroughly explain the how and why this method works as well as give a visual demonstration. From the feedback I've received, this basic method is still an esoteric point for many people who customize their toys. If I'm able to clarify this matter for just a single person, it's worth a 5:38 video to me.
The pin removal prospect of customizing figures was the main hurdle I faced when planning to customize toys. The automatic center punch simplifies the process! The automatic center punch can be purchased at most hardware stores. I bought mine from my local Home Depot. The brand of my particular center punch is Procise. Incidentally, I will be filming a demonstration of capped pin removal sometime this week or the next. That's a pin attachment type that many people are intimidated by.
For basic metal pins, I don't bother with heat treatment. My punches have been clean so far and the only scenarios where I use heat are: -Removing the newer wheel attachments for TF toys that rely on a "pressure lever" attachment method. -Removing capped pins that the pin/center punching method will not work. If one has pin removals that aren't clean, it could be because they're forcing the pin's rough end through the long way rather than straight out their side of the joint.
Yes, you can. Just be sure to re-insert the pin the same way it was taken out. Specifically, make sure that you have the smooth end of the pin inserted first, not the rough end.
It's a surprisingly easy method for removing standard hinge joint pins. I plan on filming another demonstration later this week to show a method of removing capped pins, normally used to secure wheels on Transformers and other vehicular toys.
This helps if you're trying to make a custom Leader-1 out of Classics Starscream using the Megabolt Robot Factory Coronation kit which came with a Leader-1 head. I don't have either set but this'd be helpful as the official head replacement tutorial had the head supported by stacks of pennies, this is much easier and much less makeshift
Looking forward to it! A lot of Botcon-goers are going to be hungry to know anything about undoing the assemblies of Generations Kup's shoulders, as almost all the box set Hoists have 'em backwards.
I've only ever used one brand as my automatic center punch has lasted me since I bought it. It's made by a company called Procise. I bought it at my local Home Depot. The model number is 210-2202. I'm sure you should be able to find automatic center punches at any hardware store that carries conventional pin punches.
I've never had a problem returning pins to the joints. I put the pin back into the side of the joint it exited. I also make sure that the pin goes in smooth end first so that the burred/rough end of the pin doesn't get caught until the pin is nearly back in place. When you had trouble putting pins back in, this could have been the problem. I'm pretty low tech when it comes to returning the pin. I normally use a small block of spare carpentry wood and use it to tap the pin back into the joint.
Very timely video, as I am interested in custom painting. Does removing the pin cause the hole in the plastic to expand in diameter, leading to a loosening of the joint?
I recall the Defender figure having ratcheted knees. At least mine did but the ratchets were quite weak. I'm not sure how much nail polish would help. If you are experiencing the common issue of Defender not being able to stand well, a large factor is the small feet rather than weak knees. I've seen heel add on pieces for Defender available through Shapeways that will greatly improve the standing ability if not altogether eliminate the problem with standing.
Ah, yes, I read about the assembly issues with Botcon Machine Wars Hoist. I won't be able to film the video for at least a few days. However, the video will be the first thing I do when I get home. I'll spread the word around the Transformers forums when I finish the video so everyone with MW Hoist can at least rest easier knowing there's a way to remove the capped pins at the shoulders.
Hello guiltaur that was an interesting video but I wanted to ask you if you know what kind of joint pins are used on transformers and if you know what size so I could purchase some. And what was that magnet you used in the other video. Thank you
At least it's a better fate than becoming a Terrorcon! I'm using some of Cliffjumpers parts for custom work that I'm planning so know that the disassembly of the toy will be for a greater cause. ;)
So far, I haven't experienced any significant loosening of pinned joints after removing and then returning the pin to the joint. If a pinned joint is loose when you put the pin back in, I imagine you could tighten it up by bulking up the pin with something like Future Floor Polish.
Hmmmm I might go pick one of these up. I have been wondering how I was going to get the pins out of the knees of my Fansproject Defender. If I could get them out...I wonder if a little nail polish dripping inside the joint would tighten it up. I'm kinda worried about the pin not going back in though.
Ive been thinking about customizing some figures for a while, but the pins have been the part scaring me off. Maybe I missed it, but where can you find one of the center punches?
I just got a mp-44 and one of the rist joints in in backwards. A factory error I think. Might have to use this method to get the part out. Rotate it and put it back. So cheers,
I’m actually just trying to clean my bumblebee figure. He’s got that brown residue that poorly placed figures get. But I don’t want to fully soak him in all together because I’m afraid that the metal bits will get rusty.
Hmm, that does sound like a bit of bad luck. At the same time, the pins you were working on with the PRID Arcee toy are fairly recessed so that could have added to the difficulty of returning the pins into place. I don't have my Thunderwing toy on hand so I can't check the specifics of the pin location but that could be a similar case of tricky pin placement. A friend of mine did break a pin once and used the same replacement material as you(a section of a paper clip).
Going to buy this right now. Much thanks man. This looks so much easier. I broke my last pin punch a few min ago, but this looks so much better. Only one question, what size is the pin tip? Are all the automatic punches the same size, or do they have different widths?
Unfortunately, I don't know what size the pin tip is as the packaging doesn't state the size. If you can find this kind of pin punch at your local hardware store, the manufacturer is Procise and the model number 210-2202.
In such a situation, you will need to use an alternative method. It involves using a soldering iron to heat up the pin and then removing it with a strong magnet. It's a more risky method for pin removal but it works well.
on vortex the pin holding plastic that holds the rotor assembly on I would like to remove that pin I got a new rotor assembly coming and I need to remove that pin it's not the cap pin it's the onther one
I've heard of this and I was thinking of making a custom transformer but the styrene i have will only work if I put a pin in it is that possible and if so how
enderwinner 547 It is possible and commonly done by scratch builders of model kits and custom toys. How it is done is not known to me as I have not ventured into scratch building. However, there are plenty of tutorials on the Web showing how to perform such operations.
I'm afraid that kind of issue isn't going to be remedied by what I speak about in this video. However, there are options to tighten loose pinned joints such as applying a thin layer of substance, such as Future Floor Polish, which will fill in the loose joint a bit. I suggest you look for videos demonstrating the tightening of loose joints on Transformers toys for more information.
I don't have a link for the exact model of my pin punch but you could go to Amazon, for example, and use the search terms of "automatic center punch", which will bring up many pin punches similar to what I use.
This problem speaks of a pin hole that doesn't have enough material to provide friction for the pin to stay in. In such a case, my best suggestion, all factors considered for the average person, is consider one of two options: 1. Replace the part with the loose pin hole(if you can find another copy of the toy at a reasonable price). or 2. Bulk/build up the existing pin hole with air hardening clay in order to create a pin hole that will hold the pin. Now option 1 is only viable if you can easily find a replacement toy to salvage parts from and if it is not costly. Option 2 is only viable if you have experience in scratch building and/or are confident in scratch building small parts. Option 2 also hinges on whether or not you can buy air hardening clay easily and at a reasonable price. Unfortunately, there is no quick and easy solution as far as I know. However, please bear in mind that I'm no expert scratch builder so there may be a better and easier method than what I've suggested. You could go to various toy and model kit enthusiast forums to seek more expertise advice.
Yeah it’s on my TFC hercules, scrappers elbow, the pin came separate, I was able to get it in but after a minute of fiddleing it came out, I’m thinking either a new pin, put little cover over the pin holes, or try to beef up the pin. It’s not a D E V A S T A T I N G problem though as the forearm still latches, I’ll probably try building it up first and then try caps, I don’t know dude... I’ll figure something out though I’m pretty good with modding figures... oh yeah and thanks for the reply, #subscribedeventhoughyouhaventpostedin4years
@@upstreamlotus0 Ah, a 3rd party figure to scavenge from will be tough to acquire for a decent price. Actually, finding a new pin or making one is possibly the easiest solution. Depending on the selection available at your local hardware stores, or even hobby stores, you may be able to find a slightly larger diameter metal pin that will be a snug fit for the pin hole of the figure's elbow. And, yes, haha, I've been retired from my channel for years. I'd love to get back to creating content but there are better people for this kind of job out there. Thank you so much for the subscription despite my inactivity! Good luck on your modding/fixing of the elbow!
Yes, you can normally return the pin to the joint but remember to put the pin back in the way it was originally oriented. You shouldn't need to hammer the pin back in with too much force. A firm tap should normally be enough to re-secure the pin.
Usually I take some flat pliers and clamp it back in. It's tricky to find one big enough that will accommodate some joint sizes, but it's important that the contact parts are flat and without too much texture. Think of it like a duck beak. A pair of pliers with too much bite can damage the plastic.
Is the Swindle you have the one that transforms into a red sports car? I'm afraid I don't have the toy so I can't offer any suggestions for how to get at the pin securing the mid-chest area.
Yes, the method of heating up the pin will work. However, the pin holding the rotor is a capped metal pin, which requires a somewhat different approach. I've uploaded a video regarding capped metal pin removal, which you may wish to watch for the specifics of that kind of pin removal.
I know it's been nearly a decade but I just found this video and it's incredibly useful! I was looking to modify Earthrise Arcee with some replacement parts, and I was told that I needed a way to punch out the pins to add in the new pieces. This looks like a really great way to customise that figure!
(considering it's a 100% shellformer I don't feel like I'm missing out on it not transforming. I can literally just have the car sitting on a shelf next to the inner toy now, haha)
If anybody wants to know where to find an "automatic center punch", try the hardware store. They should be nestled next to the hammers (as it's intended to be a hammer substitute).
what about rona
That's actually the most useful demonstration on pin removal I've yet seen. Too often the prospect of toy customisation goes out the window the moment it becomes necessary to remove these pain-in-the-arse pins. This looks easier & less destructive than some of the other methods I've seen, particularly the "heat the pin with a soldering iron" method (which has always sounded daft in my opinion). Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for watching!
How much did the automatic center punch cost? $15 at my local Home Depot. Keep in mind that I live in Canada so if you're in the USA, the price will probably be closer to $10.
I'm going to give one of these a try!
Nice tutorial. Gonna get a punch for applying an upgrade kit.
Thanks for watching and comment is noted.
I did try to shorten the video a bit but I figured that at just over 5 and a half minutes, I think it's more than a reasonable length of time to thoroughly explain the how and why this method works as well as give a visual demonstration.
From the feedback I've received, this basic method is still an esoteric point for many people who customize their toys. If I'm able to clarify this matter for just a single person, it's worth a 5:38 video to me.
I'm glad you can fix the hand issue. Thanks for watching!
The pin removal prospect of customizing figures was the main hurdle I faced when planning to customize toys. The automatic center punch simplifies the process!
The automatic center punch can be purchased at most hardware stores. I bought mine from my local Home Depot. The brand of my particular center punch is Procise.
Incidentally, I will be filming a demonstration of capped pin removal sometime this week or the next. That's a pin attachment type that many people are intimidated by.
For basic metal pins, I don't bother with heat treatment. My punches have been clean so far and the only scenarios where I use heat are:
-Removing the newer wheel attachments for TF toys that rely on a "pressure lever" attachment method.
-Removing capped pins that the pin/center punching method will not work.
If one has pin removals that aren't clean, it could be because they're forcing the pin's rough end through the long way rather than straight out their side of the joint.
Good luck with the disassembly and happy customizing. :)
Thanks, I've been looking for tutorials on disassembling a prime cliffjumper
Excellent tip. Thanks!
Yes, you can. Just be sure to re-insert the pin the same way it was taken out. Specifically, make sure that you have the smooth end of the pin inserted first, not the rough end.
Great video, the only thing I can’t find on youtube is how to put the pin back in😬😅
It's a surprisingly easy method for removing standard hinge joint pins.
I plan on filming another demonstration later this week to show a method of removing capped pins, normally used to secure wheels on Transformers and other vehicular toys.
I did that with a Classics starscream to swap a broken part but i use hot water and just push it in and it did go out smoothly
This helps if you're trying to make a custom Leader-1 out of Classics Starscream using the Megabolt Robot Factory Coronation kit which came with a Leader-1 head. I don't have either set but this'd be helpful as the official head replacement tutorial had the head supported by stacks of pennies, this is much easier and much less makeshift
Looking forward to it! A lot of Botcon-goers are going to be hungry to know anything about undoing the assemblies of Generations Kup's shoulders, as almost all the box set Hoists have 'em backwards.
I've only ever used one brand as my automatic center punch has lasted me since I bought it. It's made by a company called Procise. I bought it at my local Home Depot. The model number is 210-2202. I'm sure you should be able to find automatic center punches at any hardware store that carries conventional pin punches.
Good catch. Thanks!
I've never had a problem returning pins to the joints. I put the pin back into the side of the joint it exited. I also make sure that the pin goes in smooth end first so that the burred/rough end of the pin doesn't get caught until the pin is nearly back in place. When you had trouble putting pins back in, this could have been the problem.
I'm pretty low tech when it comes to returning the pin. I normally use a small block of spare carpentry wood and use it to tap the pin back into the joint.
Very timely video, as I am interested in custom painting.
Does removing the pin cause the hole in the plastic to expand in diameter, leading to a loosening of the joint?
I recall the Defender figure having ratcheted knees. At least mine did but the ratchets were quite weak. I'm not sure how much nail polish would help.
If you are experiencing the common issue of Defender not being able to stand well, a large factor is the small feet rather than weak knees. I've seen heel add on pieces for Defender available through Shapeways that will greatly improve the standing ability if not altogether eliminate the problem with standing.
Ah, yes, I read about the assembly issues with Botcon Machine Wars Hoist. I won't be able to film the video for at least a few days. However, the video will be the first thing I do when I get home.
I'll spread the word around the Transformers forums when I finish the video so everyone with MW Hoist can at least rest easier knowing there's a way to remove the capped pins at the shoulders.
It is an automatic center punch made by a company called Procise. I bought it at my local Home Depot. The product number is 210-2202.
great video thanks a lot. is getting them back in a real pain?
if you support the bottom pin mount where it comes out over a small short metal tube it will have a better drive and come out easier.
Thanks for watching. :)
Hi, may i know how I can re-insert the pin back in? Just by using an automatic pin punch as well?
nice video man
what brand centerpunch do you use? all the ones i find are too thick
Hello guiltaur that was an interesting video but I wanted to ask you if you know what kind of joint pins are used on transformers and if you know what size so I could purchase some. And what was that magnet you used in the other video. Thank you
At least it's a better fate than becoming a Terrorcon!
I'm using some of Cliffjumpers parts for custom work that I'm planning so know that the disassembly of the toy will be for a greater cause. ;)
So far, I haven't experienced any significant loosening of pinned joints after removing and then returning the pin to the joint.
If a pinned joint is loose when you put the pin back in, I imagine you could tighten it up by bulking up the pin with something like Future Floor Polish.
I´ve seen many lengths and point sizes for these, what size or diameter is that one?
What size are you using? A 16mm automatic center punch?
I always use C4 to remove pins from joints. Works every time. 👍
Great Video bro! How much did it cost?
Hmmmm I might go pick one of these up. I have been wondering how I was going to get the pins out of the knees of my Fansproject Defender. If I could get them out...I wonder if a little nail polish dripping inside the joint would tighten it up. I'm kinda worried about the pin not going back in though.
Is there a specific brand or model you recommend for this?
It is quite handy. :)
I have a RTS G2 prime that had a hand on backwards, now I know how to fix it.
Ive been thinking about customizing some figures for a while, but the pins have been the part scaring me off.
Maybe I missed it, but where can you find one of the center punches?
I just got a mp-44 and one of the rist joints in in backwards. A factory error I think. Might have to use this method to get the part out. Rotate it and put it back. So cheers,
Where can I purchase a metal pin? I have an MP11 that's missing a pin that connects the chest piece to the torso, so it's an unattached piece.
Very helpful, bruv in'nit.
I’m actually just trying to clean my bumblebee figure. He’s got that brown residue that poorly placed figures get. But I don’t want to fully soak him in all together because I’m afraid that the metal bits will get rusty.
What if you don’t have this tool?
Hmm, that does sound like a bit of bad luck. At the same time, the pins you were working on with the PRID Arcee toy are fairly recessed so that could have added to the difficulty of returning the pins into place. I don't have my Thunderwing toy on hand so I can't check the specifics of the pin location but that could be a similar case of tricky pin placement.
A friend of mine did break a pin once and used the same replacement material as you(a section of a paper clip).
Going to buy this right now. Much thanks man. This looks so much easier. I broke my last pin punch a few min ago, but this looks so much better. Only one question, what size is the pin tip? Are all the automatic punches the same size, or do they have different widths?
Unfortunately, I don't know what size the pin tip is as the packaging doesn't state the size. If you can find this kind of pin punch at your local hardware store, the manufacturer is Procise and the model number 210-2202.
like previously asked how do i remove these kind of pins with only one side accessible?
In such a situation, you will need to use an alternative method. It involves using a soldering iron to heat up the pin and then removing it with a strong magnet. It's a more risky method for pin removal but it works well.
on vortex the pin holding plastic that holds the rotor assembly on I would like to remove that pin I got a new rotor assembly coming and I need to remove that pin it's not the cap pin it's the onther one
I've heard of this and I was thinking of making a custom transformer but the styrene i have will only work if I put a pin in it is that possible and if so how
enderwinner 547 It is possible and commonly done by scratch builders of model kits and custom toys. How it is done is not known to me as I have not ventured into scratch building. However, there are plenty of tutorials on the Web showing how to perform such operations.
Ok thanks I'll try to find one
I Have a tlk barricade and the pin joint for the feet are really loose
I'm afraid that kind of issue isn't going to be remedied by what I speak about in this video. However, there are options to tighten loose pinned joints such as applying a thin layer of substance, such as Future Floor Polish, which will fill in the loose joint a bit.
I suggest you look for videos demonstrating the tightening of loose joints on Transformers toys for more information.
can you post a link where to purchase that kind of pin punch?
I don't have a link for the exact model of my pin punch but you could go to Amazon, for example, and use the search terms of "automatic center punch", which will bring up many pin punches similar to what I use.
Thanks,
What do you do if you have a pin joint that fell out and is to loose to hold?
This problem speaks of a pin hole that doesn't have enough material to provide friction for the pin to stay in. In such a case, my best suggestion, all factors considered for the average person, is consider one of two options:
1. Replace the part with the loose pin hole(if you can find another copy of the toy at a reasonable price).
or
2. Bulk/build up the existing pin hole with air hardening clay in order to create a pin hole that will hold the pin.
Now option 1 is only viable if you can easily find a replacement toy to salvage parts from and if it is not costly. Option 2 is only viable if you have experience in scratch building and/or are confident in scratch building small parts. Option 2 also hinges on whether or not you can buy air hardening clay easily and at a reasonable price.
Unfortunately, there is no quick and easy solution as far as I know. However, please bear in mind that I'm no expert scratch builder so there may be a better and easier method than what I've suggested. You could go to various toy and model kit enthusiast forums to seek more expertise advice.
Yeah it’s on my TFC hercules, scrappers elbow, the pin came separate, I was able to get it in but after a minute of fiddleing it came out, I’m thinking either a new pin, put little cover over the pin holes, or try to beef up the pin. It’s not a D E V A S T A T I N G problem though as the forearm still latches, I’ll probably try building it up first and then try caps, I don’t know dude... I’ll figure something out though I’m pretty good with modding figures... oh yeah and thanks for the reply, #subscribedeventhoughyouhaventpostedin4years
@@upstreamlotus0 Ah, a 3rd party figure to scavenge from will be tough to acquire for a decent price.
Actually, finding a new pin or making one is possibly the easiest solution. Depending on the selection available at your local hardware stores, or even hobby stores, you may be able to find a slightly larger diameter metal pin that will be a snug fit for the pin hole of the figure's elbow.
And, yes, haha, I've been retired from my channel for years. I'd love to get back to creating content but there are better people for this kind of job out there. Thank you so much for the subscription despite my inactivity!
Good luck on your modding/fixing of the elbow!
Guiltaur thanks dude!
How about putting the pin back in? Do you just hammer it back in?
Yes, you can normally return the pin to the joint but remember to put the pin back in the way it was originally oriented. You shouldn't need to hammer the pin back in with too much force. A firm tap should normally be enough to re-secure the pin.
Thank you. This has been helpful. need to go to a hardware store now.
Thnx now I can paint my battle blades bumblebees blaster thing
Usually I take some flat pliers and clamp it back in. It's tricky to find one big enough that will accommodate some joint sizes, but it's important that the contact parts are flat and without too much texture. Think of it like a duck beak. A pair of pliers with too much bite can damage the plastic.
I have swindle and the mid-chest got stuck and I need to remove the pin to fix it
From the movie line
Is the Swindle you have the one that transforms into a red sports car? I'm afraid I don't have the toy so I can't offer any suggestions for how to get at the pin securing the mid-chest area.
+Guiltaur oh nvm its backing fixed it after playing with it around the pin
+GoldenBricks AJ back
THANK.
YOU.
This should fall into the Education category, not Entertainment
poor RID cliffjumper
dose it work for combiner wars vortex
Which pinned joint of Vortex specifically? This method should work for the majority of pinned joints in modern Transformers toys.
the pin holding plastic that holds the rotor assembly
Yes, the method of heating up the pin will work. However, the pin holding the rotor is a capped metal pin, which requires a somewhat different approach. I've uploaded a video regarding capped metal pin removal, which you may wish to watch for the specifics of that kind of pin removal.
k thanks
You're welcome. Good luck on your custom endeavors.
Has
intro is too long XD