Thanks for your work. Hope you are proud of the brand you work for, and that you are treated/compensated well. I work service for a major test instrument company and can’t say the same for either of those.
Found this interesting as I have one that looks exactly like it. It was my fathers and is in my tool box. Fully functional. The only thing I’ve done with it was basic clean off of dirt or any grit and a light oiling. It was also interesting watching you set the bubbles with plaster as I also have his level which he used in making the house. It may have even been his fathers as it has glass vials with twisted fine wires for the marks and round glass disk covers over those that appear to be set with plaster or maybe really old plumbers putty. But it is white and will scrape to a powder.
Well done, I used plaster as well. You sure made a nice job of repairing it. Isn’t it amazing how how little you need to adjust the bubble to make a big difference. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
Я, конечно, понимаю - реставрация дело нужное. Но: - Разве черновую работу не делают до покраски (сверление, нарезание резьбы, шлифовка)? - Для того чтобы не испортить вещь, на губки тисков должны надеваться накладки из более мягких металлов (мной использовался листовой алюминий)? - Раз есть токарный станок, то не проще зажать в него цилиндрические детали и полировать таким методом, чтобы полировка была равномерной, а не волнами (токарного нет, зажимал в сверлильный)? Сугубо моё мнение. Данными вопросами никого не хотел оскорбить.
@@ObsoletePencil Sparrow farts are so ephemeral! It must take dozens of birds for each new plaster. I wonder why we never hear of seagull farts? Seems so much more economical.
LOL I need to tell the guys in our (machine) shop that. Too bad we don't have any interns right now. Our youngest guy is 18/19, graduated high school last year and started as an intern before coming on full time after graduation.
Dude, you sandblast off the original Japanning and replace it with spray paint?!? Then you lap the bottom to get it flat but never check it for even lapping. Yes, the level is adjustable, but there is no excuse for shoddy work. And then you buff the nickel plating of the knurling on the adjustable end of the level. You should have just replaced the vial and given it a good wash and left well enough alone.
@@RestorationStation Since you removed the Japanning anyway, and it was just surface rust with no pitting, you could have dunked it in Evap-o-rust or some other rust eating liquid. You also could have used a soft wire wheel. Or even just a good wire brush. You could have checked for even lapping with a micrometer or even a caliper along the machined edge. You also could have laid another level across the screw bosses that secure the level portion of the tool and checked for level. I have lapped outboard engine heads and small engine heads just like you did to get them flat, but they aren't a precision tool like this level. I understand it's easy to criticize. The world is full of critics. Please in the future try to think more about the finished product in your restorations. Yes, your level looks fantastic but is it accurate? It's a Machinists level after all.
@@c.brionkidder9232 And maybe to "restore" something is to make it "like new". Which means after the restoration, it will have japanning like when it was new.
Oh no. The infamous pushed in pocket screwdriver. I hate it when they do that but I'm glad you found a use for it. And good job. On all the restorations.
It looks great and you did a wonderful job restoring it as well!!!! I hated seeing Japanning taken off for just raddle can to go back on Enjoyed the video and I gave it a Thumbs Up
Un nivel de esa calidad y precisión vale restaurarlo y tenerlo en excelentes condiciones. Felicitaciones por tu trabajo y te envío cordiales saludos desde La Ciudad DE Buenos Aires Argentina.
Nice job. I have a NOS one of these and it is a beautiful piece of kit. As others have said about your lathe, it doesn’t have to be level as long as it’s not twisted.
There are a few things wrong here, first was the glass and sandpaper. You want lapping paper and you want something far flatter than glass such as an old surface plate or a surface ground lapping plate. Second, using masking tape over areas you do not want plaster on is key, saves the surfaces. Third, sandblasting will add stresses to the level which can throw it out of flat as well which is something to note when lapping.
Nice restoration I to need the glass level to restore my Mason's broken spirit level, which was accidentally broken by my father in law, unfortunately both have departed, but I feel in debt of my Gentle Mason .😥
Everyone in the comments praised the restoration but gladly not the ASMR. Would have loved to hear commentary rather than close sounds. Loved seeing this tool come back to life!
I have the exact same level which fortunately is in no need of restoration. Mine doesn't have nuts for adjustment but circular disks with holes around the edge to accept a pin tool.
bravissimo ....piacerebbe tanto anche a me restaurare ma non trovo mai quei belli attrezzi antichi con un certo valore ed un' alta qualità di fabbricazione ...che cosa é quella pasta bianca che usi per fissare la nuova bolla ?
2 year old video, but some of the comments are killing me. It's a Starret 98, not a museum piece. Great tool, but common as dirt and never intended for high levels of precision (the 98's divisions are 0.005" per foot, not the 0.0005" per foot or better with a master precision level). His process would have been just fine for a master precision level, too! He cleaned and repaired a broken tool, making it useful and pleasant to use again - a noble thing in my book. But snarky Internet geniuses claim that lapping the bottom lost precision, that replacing the japanning with paint was sacrilegious, that sandblasting the old finish off somehow created stresses that will destroy accuracy, that float glass isn't flat enough, that sanding the metal somehow damaged the glass vials, that paint without primer is guaranteed to wear off, and they complained that the cross-bubble was never calibrated (How? The original bore provides the only calibration that tube will ever have, and that tiny unmarked vial was only ever intended as a quick check, no more accurate than a carpenter's level). Foolish YT comments like these really bug me because they might discourage someone else from repairing, cleaning, or making a tool of their own. Tools are made to be USED!!
I acquired a similar spirit level that belonged to father after he past away, his is made from brass. He worked as a mechanic when I was a small child in the early 70s, back when swarfega was needed after fixing the car. Unlike now where a device is plugged in and a computer decides which circuit needs re connecting.
I’ve been told by different machinist on several different instances that the bottom of a machinist level actually isn’t flat, that the four corners are actually ever so slightly lower than the rest to eliminate surface inconsistencies. I have sort of tested that over the years and at times it seems to be true.
Hi, I enjoy your restoration videos but could you make it a point as to identifying your sources for materials? I didn't realize until reading the comments what you used to past the level vial into the cylinders.
It's nice they filled it with beeswax, the nut on one side looks like it was a replacement, can't imagine them using two different methods of holding the cylinder down
Only this Guy!!!- Makes a video where you actually replace the level water!!😅😅😅 Longest running joke for Noobs on jobsites is to go find the bottle of level water in the truck.😅😅😅
@@thorstenhulser5008 agreed. he almost over-restores things to the point they no longer feel like vintage tools. Hand Tool Rescue is my personal favorite for restorations, but MyMechanics is just fun to watch
In case no-one has explained in the two years since you made this comment: Any flat surface has a line (actually an axis of rotation) somewhere on it that is level (think about it). Calibrating a level uses the reversal method: flipping the level end for end, ensuring you remain on the same line (he uses a 123 block to mark his line). An out-of-calibration level will show the exact opposite reading when flipped if it's on a truly level line. So the first step is to find that level line, trying different lines until you get the same but opposite reading when flipped. Once you've found the line, you simply adjust until the bubble is exactly centered.
This may be common sense to some but I'm not sure about it. When polishing something on a polishing wheel does the longer you apply pressure to it keep polishing to a better finish? Or does it reach a point where you'd have to use something else?
I believe that it depends on the grit of the buffing compound. They are like sand paper in that it makes scratches of a certain size and that's it until you move to a finer grit which will remove the larger scratches with smaller ones. You keep changing to higher and higher grits until you are at the finish you want.
Ok, thank you. That makes complete sense. I only have one polishing compound I use on my projects and can only get to a certain point of polished. Thanks again@@robertmabry6998
I work there..last week was making the brass inside and outside tubes for these
Thanks for your work. Hope you are proud of the brand you work for, and that you are treated/compensated well. I work service for a major test instrument company and can’t say the same for either of those.
@@rootvalue then quit
@@doodlecaboodle9298 You are right.
Great Restoration! We're glad to see that you didn't sandblast the precision surfaces, and took care in calibrating it
Found this interesting as I have one that looks exactly like it. It was my fathers and is in my tool box. Fully functional. The only thing I’ve done with it was basic clean off of dirt or any grit and a light oiling. It was also interesting watching you set the bubbles with plaster as I also have his level which he used in making the house. It may have even been his fathers as it has glass vials with twisted fine wires for the marks and round glass disk covers over those that appear to be set with plaster or maybe really old plumbers putty. But it is white and will scrape to a powder.
Thank you for your videos. You do amazing work. Always a pleasure to watch you work your magic.😊
It looks good as far as the refurbishing part, but I would have it put on a Precision grinder to Make it flat and true on the bottom surface.
He probably doesnt have one, i dont think he even has a milling machine so yea
Well done, I used plaster as well. You sure made a nice job of repairing it. Isn’t it amazing how how little you need to adjust the bubble to make a big difference. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
A modern level would probably just be replaced. I have mad respect quality craftsmanship in the manufacturing AND the restoration.
Я, конечно, понимаю - реставрация дело нужное.
Но: - Разве черновую работу не делают до покраски (сверление, нарезание резьбы, шлифовка)?
- Для того чтобы не испортить вещь, на губки тисков должны надеваться накладки из более мягких металлов (мной использовался листовой алюминий)?
- Раз есть токарный станок, то не проще зажать в него цилиндрические детали и полировать таким методом, чтобы полировка была равномерной, а не волнами (токарного нет, зажимал в сверлильный)?
Сугубо моё мнение. Данными вопросами никого не хотел оскорбить.
Anyway I really like how you managed to restore this beautiful piece...you are the man !!! 👍👍👍
Beautiful work! Watching your channel is therapeutic for me. :)
I remember an old machinist telling his apprentice that the bubbles in Starrett levels were actually goldfish farts, poor kid believed him.
It's actually true, I once spent a summer farming goldfish farts in New England...
@@ObsoletePencil Ahh… New England goldfish farts. I once heard that you can use them in place of a mustard plaster for pain relief. Is that true?
@@Givulinovich That's just a silly old wive's tale. You need sparrow farts for that.
@@ObsoletePencil Sparrow farts are so ephemeral! It must take dozens of birds for each new plaster. I wonder why we never hear of seagull farts? Seems so much more economical.
LOL I need to tell the guys in our (machine) shop that. Too bad we don't have any interns right now. Our youngest guy is 18/19, graduated high school last year and started as an intern before coming on full time after graduation.
An excellent job sir, nice job of calibrating. Thanks for the video.
Метрологи плачут горькими слезами после просмотра этого видео.
- Ну, хоть стекло не совковое. Но как песок с наждачки резал по стеклу при движении "уровня" - копец просто.
Dude, you sandblast off the original Japanning and replace it with spray paint?!? Then you lap the bottom to get it flat but never check it for even lapping. Yes, the level is adjustable, but there is no excuse for shoddy work. And then you buff the nickel plating of the knurling on the adjustable end of the level.
You should have just replaced the vial and given it a good wash and left well enough alone.
not mentioning he did not check the lateral level which is not adjustable.
Please explain how to check the level for even lapping and how else you would have removed the rust
@@RestorationStation Since you removed the Japanning anyway, and it was just surface rust with no pitting, you could have dunked it in Evap-o-rust or some other rust eating liquid. You also could have used a soft wire wheel. Or even just a good wire brush.
You could have checked for even lapping with a micrometer or even a caliper along the machined edge. You also could have laid another level across the screw bosses that secure the level portion of the tool and checked for level.
I have lapped outboard engine heads and small engine heads just like you did to get them flat, but they aren't a precision tool like this level.
I understand it's easy to criticize. The world is full of critics. Please in the future try to think more about the finished product in your restorations. Yes, your level looks fantastic but is it accurate? It's a Machinists level after all.
maybe spray paint is sufficient. calm down
@@c.brionkidder9232 And maybe to "restore" something is to make it "like new".
Which means after the restoration, it will have japanning like when it was new.
I have 12", a 8", and a 4" like this one. They are Starrett machinist levels. I setup pool tables and this is the type of level you need.
Oh no. The infamous pushed in pocket screwdriver. I hate it when they do that but I'm glad you found a use for it. And good job. On all the restorations.
It looks great and you did a wonderful job restoring it as well!!!! I hated seeing Japanning taken off for just raddle can to go back on
Enjoyed the video and I gave it a Thumbs Up
I was thinking the same thing! Good point.
Yeah same. Also no primer so it will come off soonish
Yeah could at least powder coat to protect from brake cleaner, I wish he would have use japanning as well
Hand tool rescue have a great series and a nice recipe for japanning. I highly recommend. 👍
@@DanielConstantinoS I've watched it thanks
Un nivel de esa calidad y precisión vale restaurarlo y tenerlo en excelentes condiciones. Felicitaciones por tu trabajo y te envío cordiales saludos desde La Ciudad DE Buenos Aires Argentina.
Hola, disculpa la molestia. Tengo el mismo nivel. Tendrás idea de su valor?
good job dude . professional . Patience . enjoyable . May the God give you the strength👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Now that's on the Level!
Shut up and take my thumbs up
That's the spirit!
@@TelepathicRabbit you’re taking comedy to the next level
One question, how did you calibrate the second smaller bubble?
Do you level the level to make sure it’s leveled? How do know level? 🤔
Nice job. I have a NOS one of these and it is a beautiful piece of kit. As others have said about your lathe, it doesn’t have to be level as long as it’s not twisted.
Looks like you have some work to do on your lathe. Enjoyed the vid, needed some of the info you presented 👍
As long as it's not twisted! The lathe can work if it's not level, but you don't want a twist because you'll get tapered parts.
Beautiful. I so enjoy watching you work,👍🏼
That was amazing ! !! !
Bob
Great job. I’ve seen a few of your vids now. Guess it’s time I subbed 👍
There are a few things wrong here, first was the glass and sandpaper. You want lapping paper and you want something far flatter than glass such as an old surface plate or a surface ground lapping plate. Second, using masking tape over areas you do not want plaster on is key, saves the surfaces. Third, sandblasting will add stresses to the level which can throw it out of flat as well which is something to note when lapping.
You did your level best!
this is perfect restoration 👏
Awesome job on the restoration,I have the exact same rabone machinists level in mint condition still in the original box has probably never been used.
Very nice work ! 👍🙂
и какая точность уровня? Явно не машиностроительный.
Great work looks brand new
If you'd like to make sure the Bible is centered when installing, use calipers to measure from the edge of the tube to the inside marker on each side.
Wouldn't want the Good Book to be off center.
Lol. I clearly let autocorrect get away from me. I don't even remember what I was trying to say.
Sharp idea on drill to clean inside bubble
Nice restoration I to need the glass level to restore my Mason's broken spirit level, which was accidentally broken by my father in law, unfortunately both have departed, but I feel in debt of my Gentle Mason .😥
Well done! 😃👌🏼
Everyone in the comments praised the restoration but gladly not the ASMR. Would have loved to hear commentary rather than close sounds. Loved seeing this tool come back to life!
Needed captions/explanations.
Beautiful restoration mister good job well done
Интересно, а какого года выпуска этот уровень? И что за фирма, которая производила такую вещь?
Это Starrett
И где берут к таким вещам запчасти?!
Это что-то)
@@АлександрПрожжёный на 8:23 можно заметить, что Starrett продолжает ампулы выпускать :-)
Craftsmanship!!👍👍
I have the exact same level which fortunately is in no need of restoration. Mine doesn't have nuts for adjustment but circular disks with holes around the edge to accept a pin tool.
I often use bouillon for my lathing needs, although I personally prefer oil and vinegar. But that's just me.
Looks like it was originally coated with Japanning, and used Plaster of Paris to hold the tubes.
bravissimo ....piacerebbe tanto anche a me restaurare ma non trovo mai quei belli attrezzi antichi con un certo valore ed un' alta qualità di fabbricazione ...che cosa é quella pasta bianca che usi per fissare la nuova bolla ?
Very nice clean up 👍 turned out great. Thanks for sharing.
mmmmmmm Better Than Burring, my favorite!
Good morning from Southeast South Dakota
That's on another level 🤔👍🤣
Nice job. i didn't know that you could purchase a new vial to replace the broken one.
2 year old video, but some of the comments are killing me. It's a Starret 98, not a museum piece. Great tool, but common as dirt and never intended for high levels of precision (the 98's divisions are 0.005" per foot, not the 0.0005" per foot or better with a master precision level). His process would have been just fine for a master precision level, too! He cleaned and repaired a broken tool, making it useful and pleasant to use again - a noble thing in my book. But snarky Internet geniuses claim that lapping the bottom lost precision, that replacing the japanning with paint was sacrilegious, that sandblasting the old finish off somehow created stresses that will destroy accuracy, that float glass isn't flat enough, that sanding the metal somehow damaged the glass vials, that paint without primer is guaranteed to wear off, and they complained that the cross-bubble was never calibrated (How? The original bore provides the only calibration that tube will ever have, and that tiny unmarked vial was only ever intended as a quick check, no more accurate than a carpenter's level). Foolish YT comments like these really bug me because they might discourage someone else from repairing, cleaning, or making a tool of their own. Tools are made to be USED!!
These DIY projects are nice… right up to the point where he has to fire up his $$$ tooling lathe!
Fabulous ❣️ Enjoyed that. Thanks.
Awesome clean work...kudos 2 u🇺🇸🇵🇷
Great job. Very handy tool.
Where did you find replacement glass levels
- Starett still supply an ampule for it, as seen on unpucking scene.
It also possible to buy different sizes and preciseness ampules made in China.
Great work👍
I acquired a similar spirit level that belonged to father after he past away, his is made from brass. He worked as a mechanic when I was a small child in the early 70s, back when swarfega was needed after fixing the car. Unlike now where a device is plugged in and a computer decides which circuit needs re connecting.
I’ve been told by different machinist on several different instances that the bottom of a machinist level actually isn’t flat, that the four corners are actually ever so slightly lower than the rest to eliminate surface inconsistencies. I have sort of tested that over the years and at times it seems to be true.
Nice, but why didn't you calibrate the small capsule?
Excellent work
Hi, I enjoy your restoration videos but could you make it a point as to identifying your sources for materials? I didn't realize until reading the comments what you used to past the level vial into the cylinders.
Unique piece,good video.just keep doing what your doing 😎😎👍👍
Один отъюстировал, а второй наугад?
What a nice looking piece. Great work
Best restoration moment
Shooting blasting paint removal
Im a machinist own 2 of those but not that old definitely an antique.
*restores precision level*
*tests precision level*
"omg, my whole workshop is leaning!"
Look what you did!! Now you have to level your lathe!! 🤣
How did you calibrate the small level indicator?
It's nice they filled it with beeswax, the nut on one side looks like it was a replacement, can't imagine them using two different methods of holding the cylinder down
The double nut is needed for calibration. The other end with the screw remains stationary
That’s what I thought
Only this Guy!!!- Makes a video where you actually replace the level water!!😅😅😅
Longest running joke for Noobs on jobsites is to go find the bottle of level water in the truck.😅😅😅
Good job😍👍👍👍
После таких манипуляций он теперь погоду показывает
wow really amazing dear i love this
Very clean restoration!
What was the original filler/adhesive, and the stuff you used afterwards? Some kind of resin or plaster?
resin never comes out with powder like that... so it's plaster
Plaster of Paris
And yet,I think it was resin with wood powder...
@@johnconnor555 the resin never runs that thin and there’s no wood powder that’s that fine
@@bjrntnnesen9207 Sorry,I'm not an expert on these things...it was just an opinion.
Where can I get the small bubble I have a 12 inch I need to restore and the small bubble is broke
Sweet job!
Really interesting 👌
I have a similar one with broken tube . But can't find tube.
What's the outside bit that twists for? A protective cover for the glass?
Lovely job, what was the 'paste' you used?
It looked to be Plaster of Paris.
If you are interested in upping your game, I recommend watching the "My Mechanics" restoration channel. To me he is the gold standard of restorations.
I was thinking the same thing while watching this, video is good but my mechanics is simply on another level
I disagree.
He doesn't only restore, he is more into the restomod business. He creates the inventors' and engineers' wet dreams. 😜
@@thorstenhulser5008 agreed. he almost over-restores things to the point they no longer feel like vintage tools. Hand Tool Rescue is my personal favorite for restorations, but MyMechanics is just fun to watch
I did not net the calibrating part. Nice job.
In case no-one has explained in the two years since you made this comment: Any flat surface has a line (actually an axis of rotation) somewhere on it that is level (think about it). Calibrating a level uses the reversal method: flipping the level end for end, ensuring you remain on the same line (he uses a 123 block to mark his line). An out-of-calibration level will show the exact opposite reading when flipped if it's on a truly level line. So the first step is to find that level line, trying different lines until you get the same but opposite reading when flipped. Once you've found the line, you simply adjust until the bubble is exactly centered.
I really like your work, but it would be nice, if you inform about all the fluids and powders you use.
beautiful piece!
This may be common sense to some but I'm not sure about it. When polishing something on a polishing wheel does the longer you apply pressure to it keep polishing to a better finish? Or does it reach a point where you'd have to use something else?
I believe that it depends on the grit of the buffing compound. They are like sand paper in that it makes scratches of a certain size and that's it until you move to a finer grit which will remove the larger scratches with smaller ones. You keep changing to higher and higher grits until you are at the finish you want.
Ok, thank you. That makes complete sense. I only have one polishing compound I use on my projects and can only get to a certain point of polished. Thanks again@@robertmabry6998
Thought you calibrate a level on a angle generator being a calibration engineer that’s how to calibrate the level abs roll angle
Level that lathe!
Great job 🤝
Only one question…what about the end bubble?…I don’t get why it was removed when it wasn’t broken…just needed a clean..
Поперечный маленький уровень был не откалиброван.
Как я понял там нет механизма регулировки, так что только шабрить.
@@TOPOnyHbKA Согласен, или очень изголиться выставить уровень в момент установки на клей.
Не очень понятно нафига он его вообще его трогал!
love these contents many satisfying videos congratulations for the channel 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
You can get spirit level bubbles at Amazon. Pack of five bubbles for £5
I like the part where you checked the level of your lathe.... AND did absolutely nothing to fix it XD
Very cool well done.
Great job
I have one of these in amazing condition I found at Value Village for $3.99