Hey good one! This looks very much what I did with my 93 Autisa back in the mid 90's. At the time I had modified the cylinder to have the additional intake porting through the crankcase. It didn't give any real improvement in power, just smoothed out the roughness of the 93cc. I then machined the intake to accept a larger Malossi reed, but had to make an adaptor plate to mount to the cylinder as you have done, that could then accept the new reed cage and manifold. Mine was done so to mask the modification somewhat so not so obvious what was done so done slightly differently without the additional plate over the reed cage. My AR mates never could understand why mine had so much more pace! ;) ps.... realised I responded using my other YT account a year ago or so on same subject. Nice work done!
Hi, how are you? I think I sent you my AR93 sim files too, probably over a year or so ago? I need to do some more reed testing at some point, as I wonder if it would still give the same power with a slightly smaller reed valve? Was your reed off a am6 engine at all? I think that was what was used in the original 100mph halenge bike?
That's the coolest vid so far. I think I might have been trying to polish the sides of that intake port. Working up through the various grits to a 2000 and then using some diamond cutting paste and a dremmel. Amazing work wow!!!
another thing I considered while using the autisa kit, is that it could be easily reversed. admittedly the frame rail is in the way, but I wanted a straight through pipe out the rear. I was toying on putting the shock under the engine like the rd500. I did start modifying a rg125 swingarm many many years ago for that purpose.
@@AutoBeta2T I wondered about the clearance and any bits getting into it. I just wondered how to fill the crank case void as its not needed on the autisa kit. I did have a early frame which I de lugged and chopped the rear section off just leaving the engine cradle and head stock.
I guess maybe one of the rubber manifolds that bend at an angle? Good point about the Autisa not feeding into the crankcase. I'm going to open that up at some point to see if there is anymore power to be gained?
Phil at Holmetech has some spacers that allow you to fit a kx65 v force reed block with no machining . I tried to put a link in the comments but youtube keeps deleting it. you can find him easy enough though.
@@AutoBeta2T I designed them a while ago, its near impossible to get an ar sealed at the inlet lol. the o-ring spacer does work. I also make digital programmable cdi's and wind new stator plates for ar's (self generating high voltage- no battery need), new looms 6v or 12v , clutch kits, the fire power exhausts , inlet kits and more. I didn't say too much to start with as I didn't want to interfere.
Cool - so you are Mr Firepower Engineering! All your stuff looks very good. The pipes look very nice indeed! Never made a stainless one but it's what's needed for the road in this country. I'm starting to discover the inlet sealing issues on mine at the min... Just ground a tool up to cut some.o ring grooves in all of the inlet parts I made as I do have leaks. Hopefully with them sorted it may run a bit better :)
I don't have a definite plan but Bruntingthorpe or Elvington. I'll do a bit of road testing too... I recon it'll be spring before I'm anywhere near the HP I need... Or maybe summer.
What sort of effect (if any) do you expect from increasing the crankcase volume from the removal of material and reed block spacer? Would it slow down intake velocity which would be detrimental to using a larger carb? I’m pretty new to this so go easy 😂
I'm not 100% sure. Ideally I wouldn't have extended the intake length but it had to be to get the reed in. Hopefully the power will increase as the new reed block has more area (I believe the STD block used so far is limiting power). With the extra case volume I'd expect peak at a lower rpm. I used a reed spacer some years ago on a AM6 engine and got a good increase with more spacers. Power up with peak power rpm reducing. Hopefully I'll find out on the dyno soon 🙂
@@AutoBeta2T A couple of things which may help you: 1. Put the exhaust on a spring loaded slip on stub. Make the stub quite long so you can adjust the exhaust length by removing or adding spacers. If you have a stub of say 40mm, you can make 20mm the current know default position and add up to 20mm or remove up to 20mm of spacers to test different lengths on the dyno. I did this with my RG500 and it was interesting to see the changes between runs. At the very least you will know if your exhaust is already at its best length. 2. If not done already do a flat curve in the Ignitech and and use a timing gun to confirm the ignition timing it right. Correct as required by changing the base advance. Do note, base advance is not the same as static advance . 👍👍
@@dwhxyz Thanks for the tips :) The plan is to make a stub when I get around to it as the way it currently attaches with the two halves that trap the collar is a real pain! I may even try reducing the outlet dia to 80% of the exh port window area... I will try some spacers on this pipe too as I've found even 5 mm can make a big difference on the header length so worth testing on this pipe. For original PS mag challenge the pipe had spacers for the header and a slip joint in the belly section for dyno testing. I plan to make another one of these pipes to test and it will be adjustable again as I'm keen to test on the dyno but also to play with it on the top speed runs to see if changes in header/belly can help :) Yep - it took a while but I think I figured the Ignitech. I put a flat 20 deg curve in and then marked up the rotor at 20 deg btdc and moved the base advance till it was timed correct. :)
Cheers - I bought the house for the garage really :) If you look back at some of my Street Tracker videos from few years ago you'll see what I had before.
Hey, i cannot find this reed valve anywher, i've tried searchng the V355 and the AS 412 27 markings on your reed valve but it always sends me to the VForce double cuspid the whole time while yours is a single cuspid? May I have some extra hints on that valve? Thank you
Interesting stuff but, why are you trying to wring power from an engine thats clearly not designed for it?? Its an AR50!! Moped! Every thing will need uprating. Buy a 125cc bike and have done with it.
Hi - I'm paying homage to a challenge Practical Sportsbike magazine did some years ago where they tried to get a similar AR93 to 100mph. It nearly got there (97mph) so I thought it would be interesting to see if it can be done.
@@AutoBeta2T Well ive subbed because i do find all this tuning/machining stuff fascinating. I bought the Autisa 93cc kit for my ar50, i wasnt impressed. It seized up! Then when it did run the clutch started slipping. Id have been better buying a gp100 !! Good luck.
@@paulkazjack cool - pleased you are finding it interesting 😊 I had the clutch issue of slip too but got it sorted with some AM6 clutch springs I had... Saying that, then the clutch release bearing went. I did a couple of videos on what I did. So far, so good.
Hey good one! This looks very much what I did with my 93 Autisa back in the mid 90's. At the time I had modified the cylinder to have the additional intake porting through the crankcase. It didn't give any real improvement in power, just smoothed out the roughness of the 93cc. I then machined the intake to accept a larger Malossi reed, but had to make an adaptor plate to mount to the cylinder as you have done, that could then accept the new reed cage and manifold. Mine was done so to mask the modification somewhat so not so obvious what was done so done slightly differently without the additional plate over the reed cage. My AR mates never could understand why mine had so much more pace! ;)
ps.... realised I responded using my other YT account a year ago or so on same subject. Nice work done!
Hi, how are you? I think I sent you my AR93 sim files too, probably over a year or so ago?
I need to do some more reed testing at some point, as I wonder if it would still give the same power with a slightly smaller reed valve?
Was your reed off a am6 engine at all?
I think that was what was used in the original 100mph halenge bike?
Amazing I like the way you get stuck in and get the parts to work the new carb looks brilliant looking forward to seeing and hearing it run well done
Cheers Lee. I'm on a bit of a mission at the min 😃
Thanks for sharing. Keep doing the videos in the same format you have now, it works. I read 15 minute youtubes are the sweet spot
No problems Jon 😃
I'll keep to this format then. A few people have said the same too. Thanks for the feedback - much appreciated 👍
That's the coolest vid so far. I think I might have been trying to polish the sides of that intake port. Working up through the various grits to a 2000 and then using some diamond cutting paste and a dremmel. Amazing work wow!!!
Cheers Andy - pleased you are enjoying... I'm just redoing the head and that has had the Autosol treatment 🤩
Fina grab a cheap set of those off ebay for a current build, ggz-👾👽👍 nice episode cheers
Very nice work mate! Clean work! Hopefully it’s truly a success.
Thanks Roger. It's a bit of a learning curve for me. I've done quite a few pipes but never much in modifying the other parts of the engine.
Excellent, good progress Dave 👍
Thanks again Andy 😁
Cracking 👍🏼 keen to see the results.
Cheers Jim 😊
another thing I considered while using the autisa kit, is that it could be easily reversed. admittedly the frame rail is in the way, but I wanted a straight through pipe out the rear. I was toying on putting the shock under the engine like the rd500. I did start modifying a rg125 swingarm many many years ago for that purpose.
Cool idea! Just thinking about the carb... Not in front of the bike but would it still fit?
@@AutoBeta2T I wondered about the clearance and any bits getting into it. I just wondered how to fill the crank case void as its not needed on the autisa kit. I did have a early frame which I de lugged and chopped the rear section off just leaving the engine cradle and head stock.
I guess maybe one of the rubber manifolds that bend at an angle? Good point about the Autisa not feeding into the crankcase. I'm going to open that up at some point to see if there is anymore power to be gained?
Phil at Holmetech has some spacers that allow you to fit a kx65 v force reed block with no machining . I tried to put a link in the comments but youtube keeps deleting it. you can find him easy enough though.
Seen them the other day. Looks like a neat, easy solution. 👌
@@AutoBeta2T I designed them a while ago, its near impossible to get an ar sealed at the inlet lol. the o-ring spacer does work. I also make digital programmable cdi's and wind new stator plates for ar's (self generating high voltage- no battery need), new looms 6v or 12v , clutch kits, the fire power exhausts , inlet kits and more. I didn't say too much to start with as I didn't want to interfere.
Cool - so you are Mr Firepower Engineering! All your stuff looks very good. The pipes look very nice indeed! Never made a stainless one but it's what's needed for the road in this country.
I'm starting to discover the inlet sealing issues on mine at the min... Just ground a tool up to cut some.o ring grooves in all of the inlet parts I made as I do have leaks. Hopefully with them sorted it may run a bit better :)
@@AutoBeta2T thats me lol, can I ask how and where you plan to do the speed test when the time comes. Bruntingthorpe springs to mind
I don't have a definite plan but Bruntingthorpe or Elvington. I'll do a bit of road testing too... I recon it'll be spring before I'm anywhere near the HP I need... Or maybe summer.
Great stuff dave, 👍🏼👍🏼
Cheers mate ☺️
Nice one Dave👍
Cheers Marcus 😊
What sort of effect (if any) do you expect from increasing the crankcase volume from the removal of material and reed block spacer? Would it slow down intake velocity which would be detrimental to using a larger carb? I’m pretty new to this so go easy 😂
I'm not 100% sure. Ideally I wouldn't have extended the intake length but it had to be to get the reed in. Hopefully the power will increase as the new reed block has more area (I believe the STD block used so far is limiting power). With the extra case volume I'd expect peak at a lower rpm. I used a reed spacer some years ago on a AM6 engine and got a good increase with more spacers. Power up with peak power rpm reducing. Hopefully I'll find out on the dyno soon 🙂
Thank you for the reply. I’ll look forward to the dyno video…and good luck with the project 👍
@@mozer30 cheers 😊
Mark Atkinson (the RD400 landspeed crazy man!l) mentioned you in his vid hence why myself and others have found you.
Glad you found the channel - it's great to get so many views and subs from Mark mentioning me in his last vid 🙂
@@AutoBeta2T A couple of things which may help you:
1. Put the exhaust on a spring loaded slip on stub. Make the stub quite long so you can adjust the exhaust length by removing or adding spacers. If you have a stub of say 40mm, you can make 20mm the current know default position and add up to 20mm or remove up to 20mm of spacers to test different lengths on the dyno. I did this with my RG500 and it was interesting to see the changes between runs. At the very least you will know if your exhaust is already at its best length.
2. If not done already do a flat curve in the Ignitech and and use a timing gun to confirm the ignition timing it right. Correct as required by changing the base advance. Do note, base advance is not the same as static advance .
👍👍
@@dwhxyz Thanks for the tips :)
The plan is to make a stub when I get around to it as the way it currently attaches with the two halves that trap the collar is a real pain! I may even try reducing the outlet dia to 80% of the exh port window area... I will try some spacers on this pipe too as I've found even 5 mm can make a big difference on the header length so worth testing on this pipe. For original PS mag challenge the pipe had spacers for the header and a slip joint in the belly section for dyno testing. I plan to make another one of these pipes to test and it will be adjustable again as I'm keen to test on the dyno but also to play with it on the top speed runs to see if changes in header/belly can help :)
Yep - it took a while but I think I figured the Ignitech. I put a flat 20 deg curve in and then marked up the rotor at 20 deg btdc and moved the base advance till it was timed correct. :)
Side note…
Do you possibly have UK’s biggest shed? 🤔😄
Not sure... It's a decent size 6.5 X 6 meters.
I have insulated it so that's took up a few square meters. 😃
@@AutoBeta2T From what I have seen from other TH-camrs, that is huge by UK standards. 😁
Nice machines you have as well. 👌
Cheers - I bought the house for the garage really :)
If you look back at some of my Street Tracker videos from few years ago you'll see what I had before.
Hey, i cannot find this reed valve anywher, i've tried searchng the V355 and the AS 412 27 markings on your reed valve but it always sends me to the VForce double cuspid the whole time while yours is a single cuspid? May I have some extra hints on that valve? Thank you
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235428980717?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=tXCorWReRAi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=rNYQvC4RT7e&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=WHATS_APP
@@AutoBeta2T thank you!!
0 passed 100! Comparing you to 2StrokeStuffing :yougotthis:
Thank you Eduardo 😊
Hi, is there a way to send you a PM?
Hi - Autobeta2t@yahoo.com
yeah bigger carb i reckon a 32mm its gonna give
Time will tell :)
Need to sort the clutch first.
@@AutoBeta2T i just had a thought. a turbo! it can be done but its gotta be a littleun
Too big reed does not work possitive. You loose suction pulse and all that has effect on everything on the engine.
Yep, I want to revisit the reed valve and try smaller/fill the reed cavity too.
Interesting stuff but, why are you trying to wring power from an engine thats clearly not designed for it?? Its an AR50!! Moped! Every thing will need uprating. Buy a 125cc bike and have done with it.
Hi - I'm paying homage to a challenge Practical Sportsbike magazine did some years ago where they tried to get a similar AR93 to 100mph. It nearly got there (97mph) so I thought it would be interesting to see if it can be done.
@@AutoBeta2T Well ive subbed because i do find all this tuning/machining stuff fascinating. I bought the Autisa 93cc kit for my ar50, i wasnt impressed. It seized up! Then when it did run the clutch started slipping. Id have been better buying a gp100 !! Good luck.
@@paulkazjack cool - pleased you are finding it interesting 😊
I had the clutch issue of slip too but got it sorted with some AM6 clutch springs I had... Saying that, then the clutch release bearing went. I did a couple of videos on what I did. So far, so good.