I like the Honesty of your Video whereby you show the mistakes you encountered,that is a true instructional how to Video, allowing the viewer the opertunity to see the potential Pitfalls they could potentially encounter up front,great Content 👍
The reason the oil spluttered as you drained was the air bleed on the sump pan wasn't opened and so the air being displaced had to come back up through the hole the oil was trying to pour into.......minor point but may save some mess ;) My Only MAJOR criticism is that you changed the oil without changing the filter. For the sake of a few bucks you missed an opportunity. Oh, and torque wrenches are only for doing stuff up never for undoing. Apart from those two issues it was good work. I'm so glad you double checked the oil seal. You literally had me shouting at the screen :))))))
Bought a 2004 the beginning of the summer, it runs like a clock with just under 15,000 mile on it. Living in the middle of Wisconsin, I found that the bike shops will only work on HD's and a few different Japanese bikes but refuse to work on Triumphs. Heck I had a shop change my front tire as I didn't have the time a month ago and they acted like they barely knew how to do that. I am saving your site, I have a feeling I will be using your site a lot.
Thx Tom, Yeah, I hear ya... So for my tires, I took the wheels off myself. I got 1 tire off, but could not get the new one on. So I brought both wheels to the local shop and they did them fast. But it was only the tire / rim, so super easy for them. $40. Then I re-installed the wheels on my own. I'll do a video for it next time I swap them!
I really enjoyed your video. Fantastic job! I like to do what work I can on my bikes as I believe it adds to the joy of motorcycling. I appreciate you taking the time to go through this. Editing and filming is a passion project!
Great video mate I have sat in site huts watching professional training videos for new plant and never had one as good as yours . Cheers from Australia
Great video Ethan and nice work.. you did it! and so did I! thanks to your helping with this video ..for a little more info to add for some other folks, I did a 2007 Bonny T100 and the breather pipe is NOT connected to the clutch cover on that year model, not sure why the difference but there is a crank case vent system on the "inside" of the housing behind the gears, so no need to pull that hose off.... second thing, and it's semi important to do as well, is also take some isopropanol, denatured alcohol or acetone, anything that totally evaps away and be sure to clean that TTP part super clean as well, as it was brought to life in a machine shop ..I didn't see any machine oil residue on that piece when I did mine but ya never know I even got the skin oil off the part from my handling it to give the JB Weld all the help it needs to do it's job!...thanks and Best Regards, D.
I had 2004 speedmaster last of the carbs it was known in uk that their was a problem with the washer you showed. Under warrentry it was £20 but after warrentry run out it was £180. I went to motercykle college on sat for 2 yrs @ £150 @ term and become a semi qualified bike mechanic. then just after that triumph changed design of washer and fixed problem.
Really excellent ! I have it in mind to buy a Triumph America but was put off by the starter 'shearing' problem. (that did for my old T140 Bonneville years ago). I think I would have the courage to address that now Thanks for a 'warts and all' detailed explanation Tom
Great video. Very helpful. Nice to see the mistakes to look out for. I've had an America. Now have a Sprint GT and an 865 speedmaster. Looking forward to more videos. Martin. Nottingham. U.K.
Maybe next time; put a very thin layer of permatex ( oil resistant) on cover;;; then place gasket to cover first. Let set 15 min; then with a few of the cover bolts through the side plate;;; attach to engine. I did just learn about the Copper Spray though. And the rods. So; either way;; I'm learning as well. 😊😊😊
There are a few of us that have the same bike Ethan. I pulled into a small garage not far from me and they said they only fix HD’s but got lots of compliments on my bike with the added comment that Triumphs are cool. You do a great job explaining what you are doing and hopefully you get lots of pleasure riding the America. I know I do.
Ethan thanks for that video. I am a 63 year old, fairly decent DIY mechanic but really benefitted from watching your video (several times). Had I watched it patiently through the first time I would not have had to order parts from Fast Eddy twice, now maybe 3 times as I should have ordered part #T3600008 as well. :( Live and learn. I had 2 nuts strip and installed helicoils. Thanks for the TTP safe start tip, I'm waiting for that part to come. Once again thanks for the video...its a selfless act putting that on youtube nd much appreciated! Sean
Thanks Sean! I appreciate the warm words. I remember that feeling of waiting for the right part to come. But... I figure... it's been a fun project. I wasn't sure what I was doing all the time, but had some great support on the FB forums for the America and Speedmaster. Thx again and good luck with the TTP installation! From all I've learned, it's a very wise thing to do for these bikes!
Great video Ethan ! As Ethan commented, adequate copper spray is needed, and don't be afraid to spray the gasket thoroughly !! . A waiting period of 10 minutes is definitely recommended, or until it becomes tacky. The alignment rods are a lifesaver ! They will aid in keeping all the bolt holes in alignment. 4 alignment rods will suffice. I use 2 along the topside, one on the right side, and one somewhere on the bottomside. Try not to use an alignment rod on the far leftside, as this will impede your ability to slide the cover onto the rods.
I just bought a 2003 Bonneville America a few months ago with only 140 miles on it. Garage find. Guy had bought it, rode 140 miles and decided motorcycles weren't for him. It sat for 17 years on a milk carton and now its mine.
First great tip someone gave me was NOT to use the torque wrench to loosen bolts. I've gotten this feedback before. Time for me to pick up some new tools!
Hey Ethan, great video. I admire your patience...but maybe just a question; As a mecanic I've learned a lot of tricks during my career. I have broken so many parts while assembling I can't remember. That's what we call learning costs... But maybe I've got some advice for the ones doing the same repair to their bikes; I am going to place this safe start I recently bought from TTP and your video has given me a good idea of what's coming. I would have taken rods that are shorter (a bit longer then the screws) and leave them on the bike while mounting the cover. This would have guided the assembly of the cover a lot better I think. Once the cover is in place, you can take them out and replace them with the screws, one by one so the gasket doesn't move. That being said, I only have one question. Was there a reason why you didn't do it like that or has this been a lessons learned? Greetings from Ghent (Belgium)
Hi Ethan, thanks again for the great video and I had one last additional question about the oil seal by the lever mechanism on the top of the clutch housing that the clutch cable is attached to. To replace that oil seal I do have to take off the complete clutch housing, is that right? It can’t be done just from the outside? Thanks, Bob Vertz.
This is AWESOME video Ethan! I gonna replace the gasket on my 2002 Bonneville as well, this video help me a lot with the details and situation may facing. I even dont know TTP safe start before watching your video., Quick question, how do you know each bolts torque requirement? I have a Haynes manual, but didnt see any info inside. Thanks!
Hi Ethan, great video. Maybe someone could help with this question. I have a 2004 triumph T100.oil is leaking by the seal on the clutch housing where the lever is that the clutch cable attaches too. Does anyone know how to fix it?
My bike's leaking oil between the casing and the cover, the gasket must have gone. You might have cured the leak, but you might not have cured the problem - let me explain. 1st point - were all the bolts holding the cover tight or were they loose allowing the oil to pass? 2nd point - when you fitted the new gasket and filled the engine with oil, did it leak again - probably not If it was OK when you finished and there were no loose bolts at the start - you've only sorted the leak. - the problem might still be present. A blocked breather on the engine stops excess pressure getting out and it finds another route - normally through a gasket.
Thanks Ethan for great video. Maybe someone could answer this question. I have a 2004 Triumph T100. I have an oil leak on the clutch arm lever mounted on top of the clutch housing that the clutch cable attaches to. Do I have to take the complete clutch housing off to replace that seal? Any advice would be appreciated
Hi Robert, I think you do need to replace the seal. If the clutch is open for any reason it's a good idea to replace the seal. I've hear some guys say they just put it back on with out replacing it, butI have to imagine that's a bad idea. Once you get the hang of it, go for it! Maybe order 2 or 3 seals at the same time, just in case you screw it up! let me know if I can be helpful.
Nice video! - and good work. Question, does/might the short shaft for the starter idler gear (?) need a touch of lube/oil on reassembly? = 29.24 in the vid.
Great video! Clear to see the work, good quality, and good work! Question. Does/might the starter motor idler gear (?) short shaft need a touch of lube on reassembly? Vid 29.20 or so.
Hi Pat, Thanks for the comment! Regarding your question... I don't think I would add lube to that part. I would keep it as clean as possible. My understanding is that oil flows through out this case, so it will keep it nice and lubricated. I would not add any additional lube. If anything, I might do a dab of the same engine oil. but only if for some reason I felt it needed it. In this video, I did not, and didn't feel a need for lubing that part. In fact, I worked hard to make sure ALL oil was cleaned out. If any lube or oil ended up on the edge by accident, it would mess up the gasket. I hope this helps!
Hi Daniel, thx for the comment. My understanding is that yes…. All models and all years have this concern. It has to do with how that part of the case was designed. What can happen is if it cracks, there is no other fix than replacing the entire casing which I Beale is over $3000usd or something. It was a fun project and a simple precaution. As far as I know, there is no way to tell which bikes will be effected. If you post about it on the forums you may hear real world stories.
When you took off the smaller gear, where the wavy washer lives, the blue marker dot was at about 12 oclock. When you put it back together, that dot wasn't in the same place. Does it not matter which position those gears go back on? Do they have timing marks or anything on them?
Thx! I never noticed that blue dot. So, I’m going to go with it doesn’t matter. It’s been a couple years now and the bike is still running really well!
Hi Glen, here are 2 places that sell it! Fast Eddy sports www.fasteddysports.com/products-page/?product_id=1291 Triumph Twin Power www.triumphtwinpower.com/ttp-safe-start.php
Surprisingly the 2006 model is not the same as your 2002. I just took my clutch cover off and it does not look like yours. the sprag assembly is not the same at all.
Very nice video, congrats on your work. You are a professional 😊
I like the Honesty of your Video whereby you show the mistakes you encountered,that is a true instructional how to Video, allowing the viewer the opertunity to see the potential Pitfalls they could potentially encounter up front,great Content 👍
Thank you!
The reason the oil spluttered as you drained was the air bleed on the sump pan wasn't opened and so the air being displaced had to come back up through the hole the oil was trying to pour into.......minor point but may save some mess ;) My Only MAJOR criticism is that you changed the oil without changing the filter. For the sake of a few bucks you missed an opportunity. Oh, and torque wrenches are only for doing stuff up never for undoing. Apart from those two issues it was good work. I'm so glad you double checked the oil seal. You literally had me shouting at the screen :))))))
Thanks Steve! Very helpful!
Bought a 2004 the beginning of the summer, it runs like a clock with just under 15,000 mile on it. Living in the middle of Wisconsin, I found that the bike shops will only work on HD's and a few different Japanese bikes but refuse to work on Triumphs. Heck I had a shop change my front tire as I didn't have the time a month ago and they acted like they barely knew how to do that. I am saving your site, I have a feeling I will be using your site a lot.
Thx Tom, Yeah, I hear ya... So for my tires, I took the wheels off myself. I got 1 tire off, but could not get the new one on. So I brought both wheels to the local shop and they did them fast. But it was only the tire / rim, so super easy for them. $40. Then I re-installed the wheels on my own. I'll do a video for it next time I swap them!
I really enjoyed your video. Fantastic job! I like to do what work I can on my bikes as I believe it adds to the joy of motorcycling. I appreciate you taking the time to go through this. Editing and filming is a passion project!
Thanks Brock! Much appreciated. It was fun to do! Mistakes and all....
Great video mate I have sat in site huts watching professional training videos for new plant and never had one as good as yours . Cheers from Australia
Thanks Janine! I really appreciate the feedback. that's very cool!
Great video Ethan and nice work.. you did it! and so did I! thanks to your helping with this video ..for a little more info to add for some other folks, I did a 2007 Bonny T100 and the breather pipe is NOT connected to the clutch cover on that year model, not sure why the difference but there is a crank case vent system on the "inside" of the housing behind the gears, so no need to pull that hose off.... second thing, and it's semi important to do as well, is also take some isopropanol, denatured alcohol or acetone, anything that totally evaps away and be sure to clean that TTP part super clean as well, as it was brought to life in a machine shop ..I didn't see any machine oil residue on that piece when I did mine but ya never know I even got the skin oil off the part from my handling it to give the JB Weld all the help it needs to do it's job!...thanks and Best Regards, D.
That's awesome Doug! Thanks for the update and the helpful tips to the next guy working on this project!
I had 2004 speedmaster last of the carbs
it was known in uk that their was a problem with the washer you showed. Under warrentry it was £20 but after warrentry run out it was £180.
I went to motercykle college on sat for 2 yrs @ £150 @ term and become a semi qualified bike mechanic.
then just after that triumph changed design of washer and fixed problem.
Really excellent ! I have it in mind to buy a Triumph America but was put off by the starter 'shearing' problem. (that did for my old T140 Bonneville years ago). I think I would have the courage to address that now
Thanks for a 'warts and all' detailed explanation
Tom
Thx Tom. It was fun to make. tough, but fun, and even more fun to ride. Very few problems since this repair.
Great video. Very helpful. Nice to see the mistakes to look out for. I've had an America. Now have a Sprint GT and an 865 speedmaster.
Looking forward to more videos. Martin. Nottingham. U.K.
Thank you Matt!
Maybe next time; put a very thin layer of permatex ( oil resistant) on cover;;; then place gasket to cover first. Let set 15 min; then with a few of the cover bolts through the side plate;;; attach to engine.
I did just learn about the Copper Spray though. And the rods. So; either way;; I'm learning as well. 😊😊😊
There are a few of us that have the same bike Ethan. I pulled into a small garage not far from me and they said they only fix HD’s but got lots of compliments on my bike with the added comment that Triumphs are cool. You do a great job explaining what you are doing and hopefully you get lots of pleasure riding the America. I know I do.
Thanks Karl, much appreciated. Yes, it's really a fun bike to ride!
Ethan thanks for that video. I am a 63 year old, fairly decent DIY mechanic but really benefitted from watching your video (several times). Had I watched it patiently through the first time I would not have had to order parts from Fast Eddy twice, now maybe 3 times as I should have ordered part #T3600008 as well. :( Live and learn. I had 2 nuts strip and installed helicoils. Thanks for the TTP safe start tip, I'm waiting for that part to come. Once again thanks for the video...its a selfless act putting that on youtube nd much appreciated! Sean
Thanks Sean! I appreciate the warm words. I remember that feeling of waiting for the right part to come. But... I figure... it's been a fun project. I wasn't sure what I was doing all the time, but had some great support on the FB forums for the America and Speedmaster. Thx again and good luck with the TTP installation! From all I've learned, it's a very wise thing to do for these bikes!
Thankyou. I'm considering the Safe Start and seeing your video is definitely a helpful in minimizing some challenges in the process.
Great video Ethan ! As Ethan commented, adequate copper spray is needed, and don't be afraid to spray the gasket thoroughly !! . A waiting period of 10 minutes is definitely recommended, or until it becomes tacky. The alignment rods are a lifesaver ! They will aid in keeping all the bolt holes in alignment. 4 alignment rods will suffice. I use 2 along the topside, one on the right side, and one somewhere on the bottomside. Try not to use an alignment rod on the far leftside, as this will impede your ability to slide the cover onto the rods.
Thank you so much for this video. Probably the best instruction video I have ever seen.
Wow! Thanks Johan!
I just bought a 2003 Bonneville America a few months ago with only 140 miles on it. Garage find. Guy had bought it, rode 140 miles and decided motorcycles weren't for him. It sat for 17 years on a milk carton and now its mine.
That is so awesome!!!!
First great tip someone gave me was NOT to use the torque wrench to loosen bolts. I've gotten this feedback before. Time for me to pick up some new tools!
Nice work. That is a great video
Thx Bud!
What s great video. Thank you!
Thx J
Hey Ethan, great video. I admire your patience...but maybe just a question;
As a mecanic I've learned a lot of tricks during my career. I have broken so many parts while assembling I can't remember. That's what we call learning costs...
But maybe I've got some advice for the ones doing the same repair to their bikes; I am going to place this safe start I recently bought from TTP and your video has given me a good idea of what's coming.
I would have taken rods that are shorter (a bit longer then the screws) and leave them on the bike while mounting the cover. This would have guided the assembly of the cover a lot better I think. Once the cover is in place, you can take them out and replace them with the screws, one by one so the gasket doesn't move.
That being said, I only have one question. Was there a reason why you didn't do it like that or has this been a lessons learned? Greetings from Ghent (Belgium)
Great video ,but I think I would be nervous doing mine👍
Excellent video mate
Hi Ethan, thanks again for the great video and I had one last additional question about the oil seal by the lever mechanism on the top of the clutch housing that the clutch cable is attached to. To replace that oil seal I do have to take off the complete clutch housing, is that right? It can’t be done just from the outside? Thanks, Bob Vertz.
Hi Robert, yes, you will remove the clutch cover completely and then clean both sides. And put the new gasket on when putting it back on!
Thanks for the answer Ethan! You had a great video and I plan to subscribe. Bob
isn’t the key looking thing on oil catch pan and breather to prevent the burping the pan was fling when catching the oil?
Now I know for my next oil change!!! Thx brother!
Excellent video!!!
This is AWESOME video Ethan! I gonna replace the gasket on my 2002 Bonneville as well, this video help me a lot with the details and situation may facing. I even dont know TTP safe start before watching your video., Quick question, how do you know each bolts torque requirement? I have a Haynes manual, but didnt see any info inside. Thanks!
I googled 2002 triumph America manual and a bunch popped up. if you email me, I can send you the two that I have ebecker@mac.com
And thank you for the positive feedback!
@@sigmapifsc thats awesome! just sent you the email! thanks!
Hi Ethan, great video. Maybe someone could help with this question. I have a 2004 triumph T100.oil is leaking by the seal on the clutch housing where the lever is that the clutch cable attaches too. Does anyone know how to fix it?
My bike's leaking oil between the casing and the cover, the gasket must have gone. You might have cured the leak, but you might not have cured the problem - let me explain.
1st point - were all the bolts holding the cover tight or were they loose allowing the oil to pass?
2nd point - when you fitted the new gasket and filled the engine with oil, did it leak again - probably not
If it was OK when you finished and there were no loose bolts at the start - you've only sorted the leak. - the problem might still be present. A blocked breather on the engine stops excess pressure getting out and it finds another route - normally through a gasket.
Real good video.
Thank you for this Video Ethan! Excellent! ;0)
Thanks Ethan for great video. Maybe someone could answer this question. I have a 2004 Triumph T100. I have an oil leak on the clutch arm lever mounted on top of the clutch housing that the clutch cable attaches to. Do I have to take the complete clutch housing off to replace that seal? Any advice would be appreciated
Hi Robert, I think you do need to replace the seal. If the clutch is open for any reason it's a good idea to replace the seal. I've hear some guys say they just put it back on with out replacing it, butI have to imagine that's a bad idea. Once you get the hang of it, go for it! Maybe order 2 or 3 seals at the same time, just in case you screw it up! let me know if I can be helpful.
Nice video! - and good work. Question, does/might the short shaft for the starter idler gear (?) need a touch of lube/oil on reassembly? = 29.24 in the vid.
Great video! Clear to see the work, good quality, and good work! Question. Does/might the starter motor idler gear (?) short shaft need a touch of lube on reassembly? Vid 29.20 or so.
Hi Pat, Thanks for the comment! Regarding your question... I don't think I would add lube to that part. I would keep it as clean as possible. My understanding is that oil flows through out this case, so it will keep it nice and lubricated. I would not add any additional lube. If anything, I might do a dab of the same engine oil. but only if for some reason I felt it needed it. In this video, I did not, and didn't feel a need for lubing that part. In fact, I worked hard to make sure ALL oil was cleaned out. If any lube or oil ended up on the edge by accident, it would mess up the gasket. I hope this helps!
I have the 08 Bonneville with an 865. Should I be worried about this? I'm not clear on exactly what years are affected by this. Great work up
Thanks
Hi Daniel, thx for the comment. My understanding is that yes…. All models and all years have this concern. It has to do with how that part of the case was designed. What can happen is if it cracks, there is no other fix than replacing the entire casing which I Beale is over $3000usd or something. It was a fun project and a simple precaution. As far as I know, there is no way to tell which bikes will be effected. If you post about it on the forums you may hear real world stories.
Are those the stock exhaust on you motorcycle? Thx.
Yes stock exhaust.
When you took off the smaller gear, where the wavy washer lives, the blue marker dot was at about 12 oclock. When you put it back together, that dot wasn't in the same place. Does it not matter which position those gears go back on? Do they have timing marks or anything on them?
Thx! I never noticed that blue dot. So, I’m going to go with it doesn’t matter. It’s been a couple years now and the bike is still running really well!
Where did you buy the ttp starter saver? I have three of the new bonnevilles
Hi Glen, here are 2 places that sell it!
Fast Eddy sports
www.fasteddysports.com/products-page/?product_id=1291
Triumph Twin Power
www.triumphtwinpower.com/ttp-safe-start.php
Why not fit the gasket to the cover its so much easier?
Great Idea, I'll have to try that next time! If you have any videos of doing that, post them and link from here!
@@sigmapifsc might be doing one soon
Surprisingly the 2006 model is not the same as your 2002. I just took my clutch cover off and it does not look like yours. the sprag assembly is not the same at all.
Wow, I didn't know that. Perhaps you can make a video showing the guts?
Very nice bike, congrats! ...if you sell it, call me!
This video shows what happens when you DON'T install the SafeStart!!! th-cam.com/video/h7rOJ7mq-mw/w-d-xo.html Thank you Serge!