I'm sore, I've pounded and pried for the better part of the afternoon yesterday laying on my back in my driveway and I'm about to give this a try. Thanks for stopping and taking the time to share this, I swear these Volvos are great cars to work on but dealing with corrosion is 95% of the job.
Thank you for commenting. Best of luck to you with it. If it’s not too much trouble, please leave a comment and share what worked for you. If you are still stuck you might want to look through the comments on this video. A lot of people have left some good tips and tricks!
-3ft. of 7/16"x14 threaded rod=$3 -pack of 7/16"x14 hex nuts=$1 -pack of 1/2"idx2"od washers=$1 -heaviest 1/2" drive impact socket you own..I used a 37mm. BOOM BANG POW!!!..done deal.
It’s a list of parts to make a home made version of the slide hammer. I haven’t verified it but I’m guessing the 7/16x14 rod will thread directly into a vice grip tool.
Very fucking annoying problem! I ended up using a bike security cable. wrapped it around the cv joint and stuck crowbar into the eyelets and hammered the crowbar. It popped out in a hurry! I honestly never expected that to work but I was desperate and trying anything at that point.
You my friend saved me from 3 days of hell . This method worked for me as well . Just make sure you bite down hard with the vice grips . A well diserved thumbs up
Strange to see so much rust in a component that is completely encased inside the diff. One would think the oil in the diff would have controlled rust, but maybe a previous owner let it run dry from a leaking seal before resale.
You saved my husband such a head ache. He had been working on his all day long and was about to give up until I seen your video! I went to auto zone and rented the pull hammer and home Depot for the vice grips. It worked on the first pull! Thank you so much!
So, there’s a better manner. It saves time. It’s a little more expensive, but it’s less hassle. They make a product called “cv axle puller”. It looks like a giant claw foot. You stack it between the flute and the differential. As you’re beating it out with that hammer, you’re also prying with the tool. If the claw foot doesn’t go around the flute toward the differential, it acts like a wedge and you can beat it in. After it’s in, just pry and beat until it comes out. If it doesn’t, then the cv axle got pinned over and that is a longer and much more costly project.
Thanks for your comment. I actually have a couple of different sized CV axle puller attachments now. They do look like a thin claw foot spanner. Not sure if they would have helped with this particular setup though. There was almost no gap between the cup and the housing of the differential.
The best way to get a stuck cv axel joint out it is to use the old vc Axel joint and use a pair of vice grips and use the end where there's the joint the contact to inside the cv axel put them to together and then use the vice grips to clip it on the outer side of the cv boot and slide the cv axel back toward u really fast it might take a few but it will come right out
This video was the BEST and MOST helpful. I want to add that the part number for the vise grips you are using is IRHT82573 or 10CR. Very specific set to have the 3x grip. Also, to extend the slide hammer, I used 3ft of threaded rod 7/16 from Lowe's for 5 bucks. Threads right into the vise.
Mu trick was to tie a rope around the cv axle or joint, wrap the rope around myself and yank as hard as possible. If you have something sturdy you could wrap it around that instead and yank
Putting a hose clamp around the vice grip handles will stop it from slipping. I'm amazed that there is not a better tool on the market for pulling axles. I've had my share of stuck ones, and I've searched youtube for solutions. The one that struck me as the most cheap and effective is to slip a strong cable around the transmission end of the axle, tighten the loop with a cable clamp, then loop the other end around a ten pound sledge, and start swinging away from the car.
There is a better tool for pulling axles. It’s called an axle puller. It looks like an overgrown claw foot, but it screws into the slide hammer. You put the claw between the differential and the flute and pry out some as you’re hammering it out. The other way to do this is to take off the other side and use a long chisel it to push the side out the other side. I prefer the easy manner, myself.
Get a LONG chain, wrap it around the rear of the axle and extend the chain (both ends) outside of the wheel well... then wrap ends of the chain ends around a big bar of block of wood, then hit the block/bar with a hammer. Learnt that from another YT video the other day.
Hi Dan. That's a really good tip! I have one of those HF tire changing rods now too. Next time I'll give it a try first! BTW, I have never changed a tire with it but have found the tire changing rod to be really useful. I actually use it more than the handled pry bars HF sells because it's thinner and better at getting in tight spots.
@@fiveable if you have two of those irons you can change your own tires. Just changed a set two weeks ago for my Metro. Go to TH-cam to find out the method.
Excellent work. Love how you improvised! I had to do something very similar. I ended up cutting 2 through slots (used Dremel cutting disc wheel) in that housing 180 degrees apart where you welded. I then used the slide hammer tool attachment that has the two expanding jaws with teeth to grip into the two slots. Then when using the slide hammer it pulls straight out right in the center axis of the housing. Came out similar to yours! Isn't great that we come up with these ingenious ideas? It took me an extra hour to do it but well worth it. Great job on the Volvo! Thanks for posting!
That’s awesome! So glad you were able to get yours out too. I love the Dremel cutting disc wheel idea! Those things will cut through anything! I always keep cutoff wheels stocked for my Dremel. Wish that had occurred to me when I was trying to pull my axle. Thanks for your comment and kind words! Stay safe!
I had same fight tonight no axle smacker available , I used vice grips hooked a chain to screw on vice grips hooked to cup then gave myself about three feet of chain wrapped around sledge hammer swung out once and bravo.
THIS! This, right here...-THIS- saved me this afternoon. Vice grips, a length of braided cable and my splitting maul swinging like a golf club a bunch of times, but it sure worked in the end once I finally got a good enough bite with the vice grips.
Holy good god my friend. Why after all that did you not show a close up of the weld!!! That's the whole trick right??? Ughhhh. I just hope I'm making mine okay...
You are right. I should have shown it! Good news is that it doesn’t really matter what the weld looks like. All that is needed is some extra material on the surface to grab onto. The uglier the better!
Hi Able, I purchased the set up that you have and had the same trouble with the vise grips slipping. I used my plasma cutter to cut a hole in the side (warning, lots of flames!) which allowed the vise-grips to hold and 5 or 6 whacks and it was out! Thank you so much for sharing!!!
I had the same problem. The vise grip just keep slipping. What I did was grind a spot inside the peace that your struggling with a small grinder. That would give the vise grip a good place to bite down and won’t slip off. With three pulls it came off.
Thanks @tjordan7067! Keep at it! Take a break when you feel like you are about to go ape and mess something else up. I’m sure you will get it! If it isn’t budging at all, you might try rotating the cup and pushing it back into the gearbox. This might help free the lock ring up so it can compress on the way out.
TRY THIS IF YOUR IN A PINCH! Step 1 Rip the axle out. Step 2 cut the boot off the axle you just removed. Step 3 insert the axle right back into the thing your trying to remove. Step 4 put locking pliers on the thing your trying to remove and lock down the pliers as tight as you can. Step 5 slam the axle back and forth against the locking pliers until it pulls out.
That's a great trick that you used with the slide hammer and welding the vise grip to the axle cup. I think there's an easier way to do it though from what Ive seen on other axle cups in the center of that axle cup especially the one you have, you should have a release pin you could easily use a 3/8 6-in extension and Hammer and just hammer out the release pin using the 3/8 6-in extension and Hammer. If you have 2 people one to hammer and one to pull it would probably help out better to pull it off. Or you could also rent a axle cup puller tool and save hours as well.👍
That’s what I thought too! I never quite figured it out. Checked fluids and never found it to be low. The transmission had about 220k miles on it when I filmed the video and it lasted another 55k miles after replacing the axle, then at 275k miles the torque converter went out.
Drill hole in thin part of bucket use A chain put bolt through link and through hole drilled attach steel handle and give it sharp tugs I have removed 3 so far with this system
Thanks William. I considered that but the buckets of my original Volvo axles are hardened steel. Are the ones you drill through hardened as well? If so, how do you drill through them. Special bits? I would imagine more people have access to a drill than a welder.
I just found your comment. My apologies, I usually reply within a day. I do think the heat added when I welded a spot on the cup might have helped. I would go easy on the heat unless you are planning on replacing the rubber seal where the shaft enters the transmission. If it isn’t budging at all you might try pushing the shaft back into the transmission and rotating it, then pull again. The idea is to free ring clip, around the splined end, just enough so it might get a better start and come on out. Also, if you can find a CV axle adapter (crow’s foot) for your slide hammer, that’s the best tool for the job. I didn’t have one when I made the video but I do now.
Vice grip modified with a big washer on the adjustable end with nylon strap tied then tied to a sledge hammer and swing one hard time. You need a quality vice grip no cheap0 crap
just a couple tips, 1) just pull the knuckle and get it out of the way, sometimes we try to cheat by not taking other things in our way off 2) you can wrap a towel around the slide hammer and just pull the towel towards you and you will save your hands from getting hurt
@@fiveable just to be clear, wrap a medium size towel(about two and a half feet) around the sledge hammer once so you have about 7 inches on both sides dangling for you to grab, then just pull the sides of the towel, without touch the slide hammer with your hands at all, the slide hammers come in handy more for pulling the hub when replacing the hub, bearing, or both if the hub is bent and is warping your rotors....which tends to happen after hitting a curb or speed bump too hard
Its difficult because your creating un even force u need a piece of metal welded across and weld the rod center of the metal bar center to make even distributed force straight out
It did cross my mind (by the way), when you mentioned, weld a lip. I thought perhaps, drilling a self tapping screw, then clamp vice grips, that will end the waste of time, of reclamping bcuz of slips.. for for thought.
Yes someone else has mentioned they drilled and used a bolt but the cups on mine were hardened. Seemed like it would be difficult and time consuming to drill. Since I had a cheap wire welder handy it was easier to zap it.
Yeah, I've got one of these attachement from OTC for my slide hammer/vice grips but as usual from up the top or sliding from underneath, getting at the thing to make my swing is a pain in the arse. Subaru Impreza pain not enough space.
thank you paid 55 bucks for the slide hammer at harbor freight and worth is weight in gold came of with 4 whacks been trying to get of for three days!!
Wow! Yours is one of the tougher cases I have heard of. The winch sounds scary. Be careful and stand clear of the cable so you don't get smacked when things let loose all of a sudden. Best of luck with it!
That’s crazy. Have you tried tapping it in deeper in the transmission, not hard but maybe to get a tiny bit of movement to loosen it, then try the slide hammer again?
@@fiveable tapped a bit further in, rotated, then slide hammer. Saturated with pb, put the map gas on it till it began to smoke. Placed a pickle fork on it then jacked it straight up with the fork facing up wedged behind the cv, car lifted off the ground. May try something else next weekend if I can think of something else that may work.
I agree but the cup was right up against the seal. Would have been next to impossible to get penetrating oil deep enough to work. Besides that I had no idea it was dry and didn’t want to dilute or contaminate any gear oil or transmission fluid that might be behind the seal.
I used same method on stuck CV axle. With the vise grips but used the axle as the slide hammer..slide axle in the housing clamp the vise grip and pull..
I honestly dont actually remove the stuck cup unless i have to replace the axle seal. If all I'm doing is replacing the axle than i just leave the cup in there and take the one of the new one off and pop the new joint into the stuck cup, The parts that wear are the joints not the cup. Those alluminum transmission housings can crack if you put too much force trying to pry the cup out.
FiveAble oh wow well in that case yeah you don't have a choice. I just recently saw some of those crows foot look alike attachments for slide hammers that you were talking about on amazon. They slide behind the cup. For someone who cant weld that's best option. When i saw the vicegrips i just didn't see them being able to really hold on to the cup with that amount of impact. But welding a lip was definitely an ingenious idea unfortunately most cant weld.
after experiencing similar difficulties my solution was to drill 3/8 hole in area you had vice grips on (no cv joint disassembly needed) and attached included hook from kit to same puller tool. insert in hole and three vigorous tugs later cv assy came right out. i had to turn in old joint so i hid hole with tape :>)
As others have asked, why was the inside of the axle so dry and rusty? That was the problem. If there was oil in there and the axle was stuck, it would be just due to an overly stiff expansion ring. Does that Volvo have a hidden jack-shaft on the left side of the car? Most have those on the right side.
I wish I had a good answer for you about why it's so dry. I have looked and researched to see if maybe there is a separate section for gear oil like a differential but it's all integrated in the Aisin AW55-5X SN. Since no separate differential I can only assume the transmission fluid was low. Still though 272,000+ miles on the transmissions and still shifts great (until tomorrow now that I have jinxed myself. Anyway. No jack-shaft on this setup that I know of. My V70 is front wheel drive only so it's not as complex as the all wheel drive versions. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
For those that find this helpful I used the straight clamps and kept slipping( even tried suggestion for hose clamp around vise grips as well) I finally ended up using vise grip locking chain clamps and went behind the cup from underside and latched them on top (didn't have to be tight just snug no play) and boom two hits it came off
I have that slide hammer set and didn’t even realize that piece was in it. Btw, it did fit my Milwaukee vice grips. Was trying forever to pry it off and with this set-up it took just 4 blows and it was out.
my man. great work. i had all the right tools waiting for me. never thought of combining vice grip with sliding hammer. great work my man and thanks for the help
nothing wrong with the tool, hooks would have been better, but guessing there was no clearance, severe rust requiring severe measures, bravo to you sir and thank you for the instruction
Thank you for your kind words. Can’t remember all the factors leading up to the way I did it but it worked out. Look through the comments and you will find some other creative ways to get this job done. I think it’s great that so many like to contribute by sharing their ideas and what worked for them!
I hope you get it without too much trouble. I'd be interested in knowing if you have the same rust problem I had. Not sure why it would be that dry in there. Thanks for commenting!
Good job, About to do mine just preparing myself if it is stuck. it might have cost you a little for more tools but you have them for the next job also.
I made one of these tools up years ago, for no particular job, but its so useful for getting a good straight pull, a little grinding paste is good to improve grip between the jaws. Thanks for sharing. Put copper grease on the new part.
Just found this comment. Sorry for not replying 11 months ago! Thanks for the tip about Grinding Paste I'll definitely add that to my list of tricks! When you mention Copper Grease are you talking about a copper based anti-seize? I have a jar of the alumnimum based anti-seize. When I did this axle just cleaned as much of the rust out as I could and used brown grease liberally. Wasn't sure if the anti-seize I had would be too much.
I'm glad you got it out. To me it seemed like a whole lot of wasted time, as I did go thru that once. The outter part didn't have an edge to which jar a pry bar. But looking at that rusted spline makes you wonder, is there fluid in tranny..lol. That's always lubricated with oil. Anyways, I am not looking thru videos, bcuz once again, I am facing this dilemma. Wondering if anyone has found a more positive way to remove axel with no edge to pop out
I agree, it is a major waste of time when they get stuck. In the end I was glad I got it out without breaking something else like the tranny casing. Not sure why so dry and rusty. Levels checked seemed fine with fluid at normal operating temperature. Have since flushed the transmission and added over 50k miles with no transmission issues. Thanks for commenting! Hope you are able to remove yours without too much trouble. Seems like Volvo/Aisin could have designed it a little better with enough space behind it to allow for one of those crows foot adapters.
@@fiveable Mine is an 05 Chrysler Town and country.. I've done it many times. I'm turning 60 next month, and frankly, I've lost that desire to meddle with these repetitive issues. Lucky I'm using a Milwaukee electric impact gun and ratchet.. I sure ain't using MY arms for loosening anything. Lol. But, this Cvjoint doesn't have an edge lip where to jar a pry bar.. I'm just sitting here pondering on how to.. hehe. Be safe.
@@fiveable I used to work for Milwaukee Electric Tools, when they were in Woodside Queens NY, back in early 90's.. we were a repair station. It was bought out by Ryobi some years back, sad to say.. but yeah, good tools.
Excellent video. Did you create a lip for your grips with just tacks if weld or did you tack weld a piece of metal to create the lip. Never saw the inside of the housing in your video
Today I changed my Honda Pilot CV Joint Axle on passenger side and I got a problem of the inner joint stuck like on this video. I need to figure out to fix this problem.
Thank you. I spent all day trying to get the inner unstuck. Found the same hammer kit. Was off in an hour. Next got to get the spindle out of the wheel bearing.
Travis, Thanks for your comment! Wow you are getting hit with trouble on both ends! Are you up north where the roads are salted? I’m down south where it never snows. Luckily I didn’t have any trouble separating the axle from the wheel bearing/hub.
@@fiveable I'm in Iowa, yup the cv axle snapped in half. This is the first one I've ever had do that. Try tomorrow to get the spindle out. Thanks again.
Went straight to my garage and found my slide hammer has the attachment plus I have some Irwin vice grips that it fits. Ready to tackle the inner joint tomorrow. Many thanks
Hi Edward, are you referring to the part number of the puller set? Take a look at the description. I just updated it with info about the slide hammer/puller and attachments.
I saw another similar video and the guy solved the problem of the vice grips coming off by taping the clamp with duct tape so it couldn't open and yank off. Thanks for the video!
I'm sore, I've pounded and pried for the better part of the afternoon yesterday laying on my back in my driveway and I'm about to give this a try. Thanks for stopping and taking the time to share this, I swear these Volvos are great cars to work on but dealing with corrosion is 95% of the job.
Thank you for commenting. Best of luck to you with it. If it’s not too much trouble, please leave a comment and share what worked for you. If you are still stuck you might want to look through the comments on this video. A lot of people have left some good tips and tricks!
-3ft. of 7/16"x14 threaded rod=$3
-pack of 7/16"x14 hex nuts=$1
-pack of 1/2"idx2"od washers=$1
-heaviest 1/2" drive impact socket you own..I used a 37mm.
BOOM BANG POW!!!..done deal.
Nice! Thanks for sharing the info!
Can you please explain what are you talking about? I may be able to use it?
It’s a list of parts to make a home made version of the slide hammer. I haven’t verified it but I’m guessing the 7/16x14 rod will thread directly into a vice grip tool.
Thank you so much man! Price on slide hammer is now $100 at Harbor Freight but still cheaper than sending to the shop.
I’m glad you saved some money and didn’t have to take your car to the shop! Thanks for the comment!
great idea. thanks for sharing
Thank you Karel!
I hope he replaced the transmission seal as well, it might have been melted from the heat of that blob soldering in the cup.
I did.
@@fiveable awesome good for you , good video as well!.
Hi Rafael. Thank you for your comments!
It did help!
Great work one word for that cv thing S O B LOL
once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right ---___---
Very fucking annoying problem! I ended up using a bike security cable. wrapped it around the cv joint and stuck crowbar into the eyelets and hammered the crowbar. It popped out in a hurry! I honestly never expected that to work but I was desperate and trying anything at that point.
I like your method! Glad you found a way to get the job done. You are right, the problem is super annoying any way too common. Thanks for commenting!
You my friend saved me from 3 days of hell . This method worked for me as well . Just make sure you bite down hard with the vice grips . A well diserved thumbs up
Strange to see so much rust in a component that is completely encased inside the diff. One would think the oil in the diff would have controlled rust, but maybe a previous owner let it run dry from a leaking seal before resale.
You saved my husband such a head ache. He had been working on his all day long and was about to give up until I seen your video! I went to auto zone and rented the pull hammer and home Depot for the vice grips. It worked on the first pull! Thank you so much!
We do! If he can't figure something out, I usually can! Thanks again!
@@shannonclark1151 damn where are all the girls where you come from? No gf would or could help me on my cars
So, there’s a better manner. It saves time. It’s a little more expensive, but it’s less hassle. They make a product called “cv axle puller”. It looks like a giant claw foot. You stack it between the flute and the differential. As you’re beating it out with that hammer, you’re also prying with the tool. If the claw foot doesn’t go around the flute toward the differential, it acts like a wedge and you can beat it in. After it’s in, just pry and beat until it comes out. If it doesn’t, then the cv axle got pinned over and that is a longer and much more costly project.
Thanks for your comment. I actually have a couple of different sized CV axle puller attachments now. They do look like a thin claw foot spanner. Not sure if they would have helped with this particular setup though. There was almost no gap between the cup and the housing of the differential.
The best way to get a stuck cv axel joint out it is to use the old vc Axel joint and use a pair of vice grips and use the end where there's the joint the contact to inside the cv axel put them to together and then use the vice grips to clip it on the outer side of the cv boot and slide the cv axel back toward u really fast it might take a few but it will come right out
This video was the BEST and MOST helpful. I want to add that the part number for the vise grips you are using is IRHT82573 or 10CR. Very specific set to have the 3x grip. Also, to extend the slide hammer, I used 3ft of threaded rod 7/16 from Lowe's for 5 bucks. Threads right into the vise.
I HAVE A BETTER IDEA BORROW A SLIDE HAMMER AND CV JOINT PULLER ADAPTER
FROM AUTOZONE OREILYS PEPBOYS
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Mu trick was to tie a rope around the cv axle or joint, wrap the rope around myself and yank as hard as possible. If you have something sturdy you could wrap it around that instead and yank
Did this today and the cup came out with three wacks! Thanks bro!
You sir are my hero. I have been fighting with this for 3 days now, thank you for this video!!!
Or grind a knotch in the cup with a dremel cut off wheel if you don't have a welder.
Good point! Probably a lot safer too.
Putting a hose clamp around the vice grip handles will stop it from slipping. I'm amazed that there is not a better tool on the market for pulling axles. I've had my share of stuck ones, and I've searched youtube for solutions. The one that struck me as the most cheap and effective is to slip a strong cable around the transmission end of the axle, tighten the loop with a cable clamp, then loop the other end around a ten pound sledge, and start swinging away from the car.
There is a better tool for pulling axles. It’s called an axle puller. It looks like an overgrown claw foot, but it screws into the slide hammer. You put the claw between the differential and the flute and pry out some as you’re hammering it out. The other way to do this is to take off the other side and use a long chisel it to push the side out the other side. I prefer the easy manner, myself.
Get a LONG chain, wrap it around the rear of the axle and extend the chain (both ends) outside of the wheel well... then wrap ends of the chain ends around a big bar of block of wood, then hit the block/bar with a hammer. Learnt that from another YT video the other day.
Yep, lots of tricks out there to do this job. Always helps to share the different ways. If one way doesn’t work, try another. Thanks for commenting!
I accidentally grabbed a harbour freight tire changing rod. I would say its almost made tor the job.
Hi Dan. That's a really good tip! I have one of those HF tire changing rods now too. Next time I'll give it a try first! BTW, I have never changed a tire with it but have found the tire changing rod to be really useful. I actually use it more than the handled pry bars HF sells because it's thinner and better at getting in tight spots.
@@fiveable if you have two of those irons you can change your own tires. Just changed a set two weeks ago for my Metro. Go to TH-cam to find out the method.
Excellent work. Love how you improvised! I had to do something very similar. I ended up cutting 2 through slots (used Dremel cutting disc wheel) in that housing 180 degrees apart where you welded. I then used the slide hammer tool attachment that has the two expanding jaws with teeth to grip into the two slots. Then when using the slide hammer it pulls straight out right in the center axis of the housing. Came out similar to yours! Isn't great that we come up with these ingenious ideas? It took me an extra hour to do it but well worth it. Great job on the Volvo! Thanks for posting!
That’s awesome! So glad you were able to get yours out too. I love the Dremel cutting disc wheel idea! Those things will cut through anything! I always keep cutoff wheels stocked for my Dremel. Wish that had occurred to me when I was trying to pull my axle. Thanks for your comment and kind words! Stay safe!
I had same fight tonight no axle smacker available , I used vice grips hooked a chain to screw on vice grips hooked to cup then gave myself about three feet of chain wrapped around sledge hammer swung out once and bravo.
THIS! This, right here...-THIS- saved me this afternoon. Vice grips, a length of braided cable and my splitting maul swinging like a golf club a bunch of times, but it sure worked in the end once I finally got a good enough bite with the vice grips.
Holy good god my friend. Why after all that did you not show a close up of the weld!!! That's the whole trick right??? Ughhhh. I just hope I'm making mine okay...
You are right. I should have shown it! Good news is that it doesn’t really matter what the weld looks like. All that is needed is some extra material on the surface to grab onto. The uglier the better!
Hi Able, I purchased the set up that you have and had the same trouble with the vise grips slipping. I used my plasma cutter to cut a hole in the side (warning, lots of flames!) which allowed the vise-grips to hold and 5 or 6 whacks and it was out! Thank you so much for sharing!!!
steel hose clamp on the vice grip handle stops it popping open when the hammer hits.
A fork like you would use for a ball joint a few walks and it pops out
I had the same problem. The vise grip just keep slipping. What I did was grind a spot inside the peace that your struggling with a small grinder. That would give the vise grip a good place to bite down and won’t slip off. With three pulls it came off.
Grinder is a great idea since most people don’t have a welder!
Boy that thing gave u trouble but guess what u got it thanks my brother im having the same problem right now...
Thanks @tjordan7067! Keep at it! Take a break when you feel like you are about to go ape and mess something else up. I’m sure you will get it!
If it isn’t budging at all, you might try rotating the cup and pushing it back into the gearbox. This might help free the lock ring up so it can compress on the way out.
TRY THIS IF YOUR IN A PINCH! Step 1 Rip the axle out. Step 2 cut the boot off the axle you just removed. Step 3 insert the axle right back into the thing your trying to remove. Step 4 put locking pliers on the thing your trying to remove and lock down the pliers as tight as you can. Step 5 slam the axle back and forth against the locking pliers until it pulls out.
Thank you for the informational. Stopped me from braking the case. Still going to be a royal pain in the @$$.
Hey GREAT video. Thanks man.
Honestly thank you! I forgot all about the slide hammer! Jogged my memory!!!
I was going at it for hours!
That's a great trick that you used with the slide hammer and welding the vise grip to the axle cup. I think there's an easier way to do it though from what Ive seen on other axle cups in the center of that axle cup especially the one you have, you should have a release pin you could easily use a 3/8 6-in extension and Hammer and just hammer out the release pin using the 3/8 6-in extension and Hammer. If you have 2 people one to hammer and one to pull it would probably help out better to pull it off. Or you could also rent a axle cup puller tool and save hours as well.👍
There's something I'm missing. Isn't the stub shaft in a bath of transmishion fluid?
That’s what I thought too! I never quite figured it out. Checked fluids and never found it to be low. The transmission had about 220k miles on it when I filmed the video and it lasted another 55k miles after replacing the axle, then at 275k miles the torque converter went out.
Drill hole in thin part of bucket use
A chain put bolt through link and through hole drilled attach steel handle and give it sharp tugs I have removed 3 so far with this system
Thanks William. I considered that but the buckets of my original Volvo axles are hardened steel. Are the ones you drill through hardened as well? If so, how do you drill through them. Special bits? I would imagine more people have access to a drill than a welder.
What gear should it be in to remove the axle? Do you keep it in park?
It has been a while but I’m pretty sure I left in park.
What if I tried the slide hammer and it still didn’t bulge ? Could I possibly apply heat ?
I just found your comment. My apologies, I usually reply within a day. I do think the heat added when I welded a spot on the cup might have helped. I would go easy on the heat unless you are planning on replacing the rubber seal where the shaft enters the transmission. If it isn’t budging at all you might try pushing the shaft back into the transmission and rotating it, then pull again. The idea is to free ring clip, around the splined end, just enough so it might get a better start and come on out. Also, if you can find a CV axle adapter (crow’s foot) for your slide hammer, that’s the best tool for the job. I didn’t have one when I made the video but I do now.
@@fiveable ok got ya I’m gonna try that I appreciate it
Vice grip modified with a big washer on the adjustable end with nylon strap tied then tied to a sledge hammer and swing one hard time.
You need a quality vice grip no cheap0 crap
The trick is,it has to come out very straight or you will be there all weekend hammering lol some vw have the same set up
just a couple tips, 1) just pull the knuckle and get it out of the way, sometimes we try to cheat by not taking other things in our way off 2) you can wrap a towel around the slide hammer and just pull the towel towards you and you will save your hands from getting hurt
@@fiveable just to be clear, wrap a medium size towel(about two and a half feet) around the sledge hammer once so you have about 7 inches on both sides dangling for you to grab, then just pull the sides of the towel, without touch the slide hammer with your hands at all, the slide hammers come in handy more for pulling the hub when replacing the hub, bearing, or both if the hub is bent and is warping your rotors....which tends to happen after hitting a curb or speed bump too hard
That ring seal deal on that shaft will put a whipping on yah!
Not all heroes wear capes. Thank you sir.
I just drilled a good size hole in the cup and used a hook and chain
awesome job- I'd go into battle with you.
Thank you!
I know it's going to help for me I have the same problem that's why I'm here on TH-cam checking it out
😉😋
11:53 My only question is: How does it get so rusty? Isn't it supposed to be bathed in gear oil?
Its difficult because your creating un even force u need a piece of metal welded across and weld the rod center of the metal bar center to make even distributed force straight out
It did cross my mind (by the way), when you mentioned, weld a lip. I thought perhaps, drilling a self tapping screw, then clamp vice grips, that will end the waste of time, of reclamping bcuz of slips.. for for thought.
Yes someone else has mentioned they drilled and used a bolt but the cups on mine were hardened. Seemed like it would be difficult and time consuming to drill. Since I had a cheap wire welder handy it was easier to zap it.
Yeah, I've got one of these attachement from OTC for my slide hammer/vice grips but as usual from up the top or sliding from underneath, getting at the thing to make my swing is a pain in the arse. Subaru Impreza pain not enough space.
thank you paid 55 bucks for the slide hammer at harbor freight and worth is weight in gold came of with 4 whacks been trying to get of for three days!!
BallasTV2 where did you get the attachment to attach the vise grips
harbor freight its a kit like 60 bucks
its in the kit
I've never seen rust on an inner cup shaft, that should be wet constantly with transmission fluid.
🤯👍
That's crazy the CV cup is in there dry.
I'm using the 5lb slide hammer with the claw attachment. CV is still not budging. Next step, 3500lb winch...
Wow! Yours is one of the tougher cases I have heard of. The winch sounds scary. Be careful and stand clear of the cable so you don't get smacked when things let loose all of a sudden. Best of luck with it!
@@fiveable Even the winch was to no avail, began to move the car sideways. Will think of something...
That’s crazy. Have you tried tapping it in deeper in the transmission, not hard but maybe to get a tiny bit of movement to loosen it, then try the slide hammer again?
A little heat might help but that can be tricky. Don’t want to melt seals or start a fire.
@@fiveable tapped a bit further in, rotated, then slide hammer. Saturated with pb, put the map gas on it till it began to smoke. Placed a pickle fork on it then jacked it straight up with the fork facing up wedged behind the cv, car lifted off the ground. May try something else next weekend if I can think of something else that may work.
From the looks of the rust, it might have come out easier with some PB oil over night first.
I agree but the cup was right up against the seal. Would have been next to impossible to get penetrating oil deep enough to work. Besides that I had no idea it was dry and didn’t want to dilute or contaminate any gear oil or transmission fluid that might be behind the seal.
OK he did it. But that was very funny when he appeared with the welding shield and gear. THank you.
Thanks @Earthstein! Glad it made you laugh! 😊
Best words! " Walk away, and think about a different approach ", Great job!
Thank you Dennis!
I used same method on stuck CV axle. With the vise grips but used the axle as the slide hammer..slide axle in the housing clamp the vise grip and pull..
Nice trick! Thanks for commenting!
Mr tires are not going to work you got to get something in behind it to pull it out otherwise you're going to be sitting there fighting that
Want to try it on honda fit GD1..thank you
Hope it works for you too! Thanks for commenting!
I honestly dont actually remove the stuck cup unless i have to replace the axle seal. If all I'm doing is replacing the axle than i just leave the cup in there and take the one of the new one off and pop the new joint into the stuck cup, The parts that wear are the joints not the cup. Those alluminum transmission housings can crack if you put too much force trying to pry the cup out.
FiveAble oh wow well in that case yeah you don't have a choice. I just recently saw some of those crows foot look alike attachments for slide hammers that you were talking about on amazon. They slide behind the cup. For someone who cant weld that's best option. When i saw the vicegrips i just didn't see them being able to really hold on to the cup with that amount of impact. But welding a lip was definitely an ingenious idea unfortunately most cant weld.
Just drill a hole on it, tie a long enough rope or a cable through hole and pull hard to extract it.
after experiencing similar difficulties my solution was to drill 3/8 hole in area you had vice grips on (no cv joint disassembly needed) and attached included hook from kit to same puller tool. insert in hole and three vigorous tugs later cv assy came right out. i had to turn in old joint so i hid hole with tape :>)
Nice! I’m guessing the cup on your cv joint assembly wasn’t made of hardened steel. Thanks for leaving a comment!
Make sure all grease and oil is out of, around and on any nearby surfaces of cup. Grease could catch fire while welding. Great job!!
Very true. That’s why I had a fire extinguisher handy at the time. You can see it in the video. 😊
As others have asked, why was the inside of the axle so dry and rusty? That was the problem. If there was oil in there and the axle was stuck, it would be just due to an overly stiff expansion ring. Does that Volvo have a hidden jack-shaft on the left side of the car? Most have those on the right side.
I wish I had a good answer for you about why it's so dry. I have looked and researched to see if maybe there is a separate section for gear oil like a differential but it's all integrated in the Aisin AW55-5X SN. Since no separate differential I can only assume the transmission fluid was low. Still though 272,000+ miles on the transmissions and still shifts great (until tomorrow now that I have jinxed myself. Anyway. No jack-shaft on this setup that I know of. My V70 is front wheel drive only so it's not as complex as the all wheel drive versions. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Nice Trick mate 💪💯👍
Thanks!
The world needs more thoughtful people like you. You have helped a lot of people with your repair video. GBY !
For those that find this helpful I used the straight clamps and kept slipping( even tried suggestion for hose clamp around vise grips as well) I finally ended up using vise grip locking chain clamps and went behind the cup from underside and latched them on top (didn't have to be tight just snug no play) and boom two hits it came off
@@fiveable no thank you for the video you definitely got me farther than I was gave me a brain boost
Fantastic
I have that slide hammer set and didn’t even realize that piece was in it. Btw, it did fit my Milwaukee vice grips. Was trying forever to pry it off and with this set-up it took just 4 blows and it was out.
Glad it worked for you too. Good to know about the adapter compatibility with Milwaukee vice grips. Thank you for commenting and sharing your success!
You are my hero, I was anxious for you. I had to take mine to a shop i gave up. Good job
Thank you! I’ll admit I was worried I might have to take mine to the shop too.
my man. great work. i had all the right tools waiting for me. never thought of combining vice grip with sliding hammer. great work my man and thanks for the help
That’s great! Glad you had all the tools available and you found my video helpful! Thank you for the kind comment and sharing your success! ✌🏻
Wow ,thanks for sharing!
nothing wrong with the tool, hooks would have been better, but guessing there was no clearance, severe rust requiring severe measures, bravo to you sir and thank you for the instruction
Thank you for your kind words. Can’t remember all the factors leading up to the way I did it but it worked out. Look through the comments and you will find some other creative ways to get this job done. I think it’s great that so many like to contribute by sharing their ideas and what worked for them!
Here with a Volvo aswell 👋🏽
I hope you get it without too much trouble. I'd be interested in knowing if you have the same rust problem I had. Not sure why it would be that dry in there. Thanks for commenting!
Always on the driver's side. Lol Same issue. Good to know about the adapter
Thanks for commenting!
Perseverance and imagination win the day!
Good job, About to do mine just preparing myself if it is stuck. it might have cost you a little for more tools but you have them for the next job also.
You are the man!!!!!! Freakin worked perfect!!!!! Man been workin on this thing for 6 hours and bam came right out , I really appreciate it
Nice!
I made one of these tools up years ago, for no particular job, but its so useful for getting a good straight pull, a little grinding paste is good to improve grip between the jaws.
Thanks for sharing. Put copper grease on the new part.
Just found this comment. Sorry for not replying 11 months ago! Thanks for the tip about Grinding Paste I'll definitely add that to my list of tricks! When you mention Copper Grease are you talking about a copper based anti-seize? I have a jar of the alumnimum based anti-seize. When I did this axle just cleaned as much of the rust out as I could and used brown grease liberally. Wasn't sure if the anti-seize I had would be too much.
When vice grips won't stay closed cause of overlock use a good zip tie around handles.
Hi Michael, Thanks for commenting and sharing the ziplock trick!
That was great. It had a lot of rust. It really helps to see the importance of grease on the ends of the axle. Thanks!
Thanks for your kind comment! Hope you have a great day! 👍🏻✌🏻
Thanks for sharing, buddy!
Grateful Dead Jerry!!!!!!!!!!!
Got that shirt at the Fare Thee Well shows in Chicago!
Great job & thanks for the video 👍🏼
Working with shorts & Gloves lol what a rookie
Put some molly grease on the inner splines on reassembly.
After I cleaned all the rust out, I greased the splines on the new axle before putting it back together.
I'm glad you got it out. To me it seemed like a whole lot of wasted time, as I did go thru that once. The outter part didn't have an edge to which jar a pry bar. But looking at that rusted spline makes you wonder, is there fluid in tranny..lol. That's always lubricated with oil. Anyways, I am not looking thru videos, bcuz once again, I am facing this dilemma. Wondering if anyone has found a more positive way to remove axel with no edge to pop out
I agree, it is a major waste of time when they get stuck. In the end I was glad I got it out without breaking something else like the tranny casing. Not sure why so dry and rusty. Levels checked seemed fine with fluid at normal operating temperature. Have since flushed the transmission and added over 50k miles with no transmission issues. Thanks for commenting! Hope you are able to remove yours without too much trouble. Seems like Volvo/Aisin could have designed it a little better with enough space behind it to allow for one of those crows foot adapters.
@@fiveable Mine is an 05 Chrysler Town and country.. I've done it many times. I'm turning 60 next month, and frankly, I've lost that desire to meddle with these repetitive issues. Lucky I'm using a Milwaukee electric impact gun and ratchet.. I sure ain't using MY arms for loosening anything. Lol. But, this Cvjoint doesn't have an edge lip where to jar a pry bar.. I'm just sitting here pondering on how to.. hehe. Be safe.
I also have cordless Milwaukee impact tools and the 3/8 ratchet. Love the tools Milwaukee makes. They are game changers! You be safe too. Thanks!
@@fiveable I used to work for Milwaukee Electric Tools, when they were in Woodside Queens NY, back in early 90's.. we were a repair station. It was bought out by Ryobi some years back, sad to say.. but yeah, good tools.
Excellent video. Did you create a lip for your grips with just tacks if weld or did you tack weld a piece of metal to create the lip. Never saw the inside of the housing in your video
Today I changed my Honda Pilot CV Joint Axle on passenger side and I got a problem of the inner joint stuck like on this video.
I need to figure out to fix this problem.
You can use the axle and 3 vice grips. There's a video on how to do.
If you can find one there is a crows foot attachment for the end of a slide hammer. Your local auto parts store might have one as a loaner tool.
Chain will remove that in seconds.
Thank you. I spent all day trying to get the inner unstuck. Found the same hammer kit. Was off in an hour. Next got to get the spindle out of the wheel bearing.
Travis, Thanks for your comment! Wow you are getting hit with trouble on both ends! Are you up north where the roads are salted? I’m down south where it never snows. Luckily I didn’t have any trouble separating the axle from the wheel bearing/hub.
@@fiveable I'm in Iowa, yup the cv axle snapped in half. This is the first one I've ever had do that. Try tomorrow to get the spindle out. Thanks again.
Great video, Thank you
Thank you James! Glad you found it helpful.
Went straight to my garage and found my slide hammer has the attachment plus I have some Irwin vice grips that it fits. Ready to tackle the inner joint tomorrow. Many thanks
Best of luck with it! Thanks for commenting!
@@fiveable Worked on 3rd attempt !!!
Awesome!
Dealing with this exact issue on my POS dodge.
Best of luck to you. It’s definitely a PITA to deal with.
I like people who think outside the box..........Subscribed.
You rock! Thanks for the comment and subscription!!
Hello, the transmition is whithout oil.
I know this is old but do you have the parts number for that tool
Hi Edward, are you referring to the part number of the puller set? Take a look at the description. I just updated it with info about the slide hammer/puller and attachments.
I saw another similar video and the guy solved the problem of the vice grips coming off by taping the clamp with duct tape so it couldn't open and yank off. Thanks for the video!