Watch this before you install your toilet!!!! | Plumbing Explained
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ย. 2024
- #toilet #plumbing #plumber #flange #service #serviceplumber #service #drain #drainagepipes #milwaukeetools #tools #explained #plumbingexplained
Anytime you pull a toilet and you notice the flange is not at least level with the floor you really should raise the flange up and this is one of the best ways to do it if you are working with ABS or PVC, its very easy you buy a 3x4 stainless steel knockout flange, you cut out the lip on the inside of the original flange and the new 3x4 match will slide right in, apply glue to both the outside of the flange and the inside of the pipe you will be glueing the flange into.
Heres a video where the customer was dealing with the toilet flushing into his ceiling! GUESS WHY?!?!?
• Toilet causes major el... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Just had another one that leaked into the ceiling causing electrical problems th-cam.com/users/shortsDkEmQoG1DAg?feature=share
Now you're loading the pipe, you should have a spacer below the new flange lip.
@@notheisenbear5686 the new flange is mounted to the top of the old flange which is ontop of the original floor, the pipe is not loaded.
We don't fit shitters like that in the UK, outlets are usually from the rear and above the floor.
@@MrWilkes100 I think the way you guys do them is better, it’s more like we do commercial shitters, do your toilets clog often?
@@PlumbingExplained Don't get too many blockages, is the pipe diameter 75mm? we use 100mm over here, only ever see 75mm outlets on the old double trap syphonic shitters, peace bro😁
The man who taught me home remodeling had a great line for homeowners who just wanted quick and cheap: "Well, we can do this and you'll never see me again, or I can start showing you pictures of my kids right now." 😄
Hahaha sounds like a good man!
I dont get it
@@bend4852 he can do it quickly and cheaply where it'll barely last and he won't ever talk them again. Or he can charge his price do such a good job that they become family freinds sorta.
@@chrisd5758 ahhhhhh I get it now lol
@@chrisd5758 I took it the opposite
We can do it the right way and you'll never have to call me again, or we can do it wrong and you can keep calling me back over and over again to keep fixing it... And while I'm there and we become aquatinted I'll show you pictures of my kids as they grow up through the years.
Love people who do it right but people who show others how to do it right are honorable.
Appreciate such a nice comment!
He only did it half right.
There's no backer for the stainless ring, Those Stainless rings, sit on a plastic lip thats part of the fitting.
That plastic lip is nothing to write home about. It's there purely to hold the stainless ring in place. But now it's acting as support for that stainless ring.
He should have done a flange stacker underneath it so Support it but now that he's put screws in it. It's adding extra pressure onto those tiny little lips Which are not designed for that and will eventually fail.
So in short, he did a hack job.
I have to say over the last five years they’ve come out with some revolutionary new ways to seal toilets on the floor
I just did a video on the Korky wax free seal but I’m gonna stick to using wax
They also have flange repair kits that are real helpful instead of chiseling out a broken plastic flange . Had to do one at UGA last week .
Amen. Nothing but stainless rings! I've replaced too many broken plastic ones.
The plastic ones are terrible man…. I try not to even re use them these days, I’ve had too many times I set a toilet and the damn flange cracks as I’m tightening it to the floor, usually bout 6pm on a Friday
Or the original epoxy paint over steel, that rust out. At least those can be replaced with the two piece SS repair collars
@@michaelnelson7572 Yes I've had the epoxy coated steel rust out in maybe only 7 years or less. I was surprised. New construction on ceramic tile.
No leaks. Air conditioned house. But thering rusted out. ( the epoxy coating peeled off and looked perfect)
I just purchased my first home two years ago. We replaced the toilet right away. A handyman did for me. The flanges were plastic! I knew nothing about toilets or flanges so I thought this was current JUNK. I noticed the handyman screwed the concrete screws too far into the concrete, because the flange would sag at the perimeter of each screw hole. Jerk ruined all kinds of things in my home.
@@PlumbingExplained used to get galvanized for cheap or brass if you gave a rip, or cast iron if you were cheap as F, tho the old cast iron used to last cuz it wasn’t pot metal chineseum cast “iron”
This is how true home professionals work. Competency in the trades is becoming a lost art.
Usually the floor is rotten, and there's no where to screw to.
Ever heard about concrete?
I'm sure he's only referring to houses with wood subflooring. Second stories where mentioned in the video.
@@suprememasteroftheuniversesure pour 1/8-1/4 inch of cement and yeah that'll take and hold some screws. If you don't know about concrete, keep it out your mouth for liability issues
@@MrFixIt929 the cement or the shit!? 😂🤢
Ever hear of concrete second story floors?
As a licensed plumber for over 15 years ....good job brother
Appreciate you brother, thanks for the comment
Im sure you use hex head screws when the flange is beveled for a reason dont praise someone if you dont fucking know yourself
Made this repair for a homeowner not too long ago . They were out of town and had no idea how bad it was. I was redoing their floor. As a thank you they didn't pay me.
We need more honest plumbers like you to the profession. 👊 Great job.
Thank you!
Commercial plumber here, Good job
Thanks brother, stay safe out there!
@@PlumbingExplained I didn't know it was such a dangerous profession, lol
@stevenglansberg4448
Your last breath could happen at any second.
Was it a great job when he didn't properly clean the train pipe for the new one to glue to it? All that feces won't destroy the bond 😂😂😂
Ty very much. I installed a new wax ring on my toilet last year and tore the floor out and replaced the linoleum only for it to leak again. This was the exact issue. I will redo that and save $2,000 in lumber.
Appreciate you bro
This was an easy Job. Usually when they call for toilet issues, and I have to remove the toilet, there is usually woot rot involved. Ive also seen cast iron closet flange that's completely broken/rotted off.
When the wood has completely rotted away it definitely makes things harder….
Not to mention a lead elbow to reinstall to in some older buildings.
Great job, great rationale. The knock on effects of a "cheap" job when it fails are rarely worth it. I like how you explained how the wax rings will likely fail in this situation - a happy customer is also an informed one! Cheers.
Thank you! I just want to help inform people that’s my main goal with this channel is to help inform people. Thanks for leaving a comment!
FYI, toilet flanges are made to sit on the finished floor, not slightly above or level with the floor. The toilet manufacturers and wax ring manufacturers know this, which is why they make extra thick wax rings for when you mess up and don't put it ON the floor.
Right. He should have used some kind of spacer to keep the bottom of flange to top of floor
Except when you do that, the bottom of the toilet doesn't have enough recession and it tips/rocks on the flange.
Bullshit. Toilet flanges are built to be made 1/8" proud of floor. Youre doing it wrong
I add two wax rings if the toilet flange is not above the floor but never on a 2nd story.and I grout my toilets to ensure no rock
They also sell kits to raise up see articles ..diffo thickens plates to raise it up..
When you secure the flange make sure you use proper screws aka stainless brass or tapcons work
but he had a big uneven gap..whats he doing? and it's not on top of floor..geez all that and wrong..
👏👏👏 thank you! Tired of going behind ppl that stack wax rings
I’ve been guilty of it specially in situations when I was newer to the trade, didn’t know any better or didn’t know how to explain to the customer why it was so necessary
Its fun to see the after, i only install new plumbing once someone uses it i wont touch it! Hats off to the guys that do
Yea I always say hats off to the new construction guys! Thanks for leaving a great comment brother
Great job. Thank you for mentioning that plunging a toilet can damage the wax ring.
They make ones that use a 3 Allen key to tighten and when you do the rubber ring expanse.i think it's called a slab flange
Those are great for cast iron
The one you are referencing takes up a lot of real estate inside the pipe. Wouldn’t use it on a 3” pipe.
Those ones with the three Allen heads at expand or no good to put in because they caused lots of stoppages oh, it appears everything catches on them and they're constantly having stop and just with those.
Super cool to see people doing thoroughly! Thank you
You’re welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment
Momma always says " There's only Two things to know to be a Plunber " Shit Don't Run Uphill ", and Payday is on Friday " ,,, 😅
Thank you for not putting on a shitty voice for people that dislike your work, keep doing good vids
Most toilets are piped in 3" ABS or PVC pipe and some flange that fits inside 3" pipe has too much restriction. Unless existing flange has rusted away, I just stack up extension rings. Also, there are wax free toilet seals that can accommodate low flanges. As a remodeler, bigger problem I come across is where toilet flange is too high. This is usually the case when mud floor is removed. When flange is too high, there is no other way other than replacing flange. Relatively easy when it is plastic. Quiet a job when it is cast iron.
Most toilets are plumbed in 4” not 3”. Three inch pipe is the minimum allowed for toilets but it’s not recommended, maybe the newer houses in areas where they’re trying to conserve water that only allows the low flow toilets are building new homes using 3” but that’s not a good idea in my opinion.
@@PlumbingExplained Maybe that is the case in your area, but around here (MD, VA, DC), toilets are plumbed in 3" unless it is old cast iron. 4" is rarely found in residential buildings, and usually used underground only.
@@PlumbingExplained most toilets are plumbed in 3" unless underground.
Maybe in some places people just take bigger dumps.. 😂 All the toilets we deal with in California are 4 inch
@@Reno420alex do you have basements?
I don’t have any plumbing work needed to be done, I just come here because I like watching
Bruh. Thank you. You know how often I come to do floors and not only have to pour them but also add thinset and tile (sometimes board/membrane) and the ring is already in. It drives me nuts.
agreed..its insane..
Happens a lot bro…
Good job. That's called taking care of your customers and making sure you are the go-to plumber in the future
Plumbers saved more lives than doctors~ Dr. Jordan Peterson
was in flooring for years. I did this. have to be careful with toilets it's not out of sight out of mind. well done
I’m guilty of having done it many times as well but the more you know, the better you can provide a service for your customers that helps them
That's a cool looking Chrome flange!
this is the correct way to do it m. I can't tell you many how many times the customer had their bathroom tiled by someone which in effect lowered the closet flange and then the toilet leaked after installation. so this is the correct way. They do make flange spacers which you can use one or two of those and it works in a pinch also
This is why in the UK our toilets exit out the rear of the toilet not the bottom then the stench pipe is outside
Ive always been curious about the way you guys run your toilets, thats how we do Urinals, Are all your toilets pressure assisted or gravity flush?
We have the same cistern as you do but our exit from the Toilet is out the back rather than the base so the pipe goes through the wall rather than the floor. I believe we have less water in the pan as well. Does make replacing a toilet so much easier as you remove the 2 hold down bolts, disconect the cistern and gently pull it away removing the toilet from the pipe seal. (I'm not a plumber but I hafe fitted a toilet or 2)
@@derekwright3896 It’s always interesting to me how there are so many different solutions for the same job depending what part of the world you live in.
We have rear outlet toilets too
@@derekwright3896we do have rear outlet gravity flush toilets in the US . Typically they are used in remodels where there are a couple of hindrances to using a bottom outlet toilet . Just not a common a design here . As a plumber , these types of toilets have one drawback . When the flange seal becomes worn , sewer water gets to making a mess in areas that bottom flush toilets usually don't.
Either design is great , if installed correctly . Just an application thing .
Correct sir! Flush with the floor or a tiny bit higher. You tube plumbers miss that important aspect.
I always hated living below people in apartments, I am the type of person that will entertain the worst imaginable scenarios
I have a flange that is in the basement that is just below the floor. Wax rings work for about a year. I didn't think of replacing it but your video helped me assess that possibility and I think I just might collect my tools again.
They sell kits to raise up flange look it up..flange should be on top of floor.. if wax fails you got movement..shim it.. plastic ones fine..
@@Peter-td3yk Solid advice that I have taken and ordered what I need. Amazon...
I use stackable flanges pasco sells them. I’ve never had issues with them for over 30yrs .. but you did a awesome repair job there I agree nothing but stainless steel flanges…
Landlords always say to just use more wax rings and get irate when you fix the flange.
It’s crazy too because it’s their home that’s gonna be damaged when the rings inevitably fail… specially with renters
@Plumbing Explained I've used those thick korky foam rings a few times. Not sure how they age but they're great for few years at least.
@@drphosferrousthey make these black foam rings maybe youve seen them?? They also make 1 thats 50% bigger and also a double thickness. Theyve never let me down and its been 12 years. But dont double up 2 of the regular ones because they can leak between each other
@@masterpaine9161 Ive used the korky ones many times. I've always been curious how they hold up over time. thx
The cleanliness. Thank you.
how long have stainless flanges been around?
As long as I’ve been plumbing so at least 20 years
I'm so glad that this is NOT how toilets are done in the UK, the piping almost always goes out the back of the pan through the wall of building into the waste water stack, NEVER into a floor space. The only exceptions are were the waste pipe is cast into a concrete floor or the toilet pan discharges into a Saniflo/Pump-grinder with the discharge pipe work runs above floor level through the wall of building into the waste water stack and boxed in.
That’s how a lot of commercial toilets are done here and I’ve noticed some toilet brands are trying to bring that drain out the back style toilets over here too
I wish I could find someone in my area that did quality work like this. 😒
What area you in?
yeah me too, I'm in Northern Colorado
A lot of do it yourselfers that cannot find a guy like this are paying attention.
This is very true. Don't use blue glue. Use plenty of fresh ABS glue on ABS pipe and PVC glue on PVC pipe. It lubricates the connection so you can get the right level without applying too much pressure. Fasten with bevel head tap-cons or S.S. beveled heads.
Change the screws to stainless
I’m new to plumbing. Why use stainless
@@breakfasttacos8087 so if the wax ring starts to fail the screws won’t rot out. I’ve pulled flanges with rotted sheet rock screws and zinc screws many times
Definitely gotta raise that flange usually put a spacer in there to the flange isn't fliating
Waxless seals are the future. I haven't used wax in years. FERNCO 3" OR 4". They can be harder to get a good seal on a used toilet so you have to make sure you clean all the old wax off the toilet
We use the nonblow out wax. They tested it with 4 wax rings tall. Witch came to 3 inches tall. It took 98 psi tell it blew out. So no plunger will make that much psi
you have to remembe its a 4" or 3" drain line and when theres a stoppage and its holding water some people plunge like their life is depending on it... Its gonna create a leak theres no debating this, Ive been doing this every day for the last 20 years of my life, since before I even graduated highschool I have met the engineers behind the rubber seals, I was at Fluidmaster with a group of plumbers discussing the product with the people that created it before and after it went on the market im fully aware of the product and its capabilities, I still prefer wax.
They tested the psi when useing plungers 🪠 . The one that takes the co2 cartridges had the most with 12 psi.... u realize how much 90 psi is? No way u can get that much out of a plunger
@Joe Drake guarantee I can get more than 12psi out of a hand plunger after stuffing my dates toilet 🪠 😅
@@deputydan2226 you are legit the funniest guy in the comment section every time brother! When I drop my shirts and stickers im gonna hook you up.
Really great video and detailed explanation. Thanks for all the work and making it
Thank you so much for such a great comment!
No one uses "jumbo" wax rings? I use them for every install...
I use them but flange needs to be resting ontop of floor not below
@@PlumbingExplained The flange needs to be flush with the floor. If it's high. The toilet will rock and you'll have to shim it. And even that won't be right...So if you've tiles and the flange is now below flush with the flooring. You use extra thick wax ring or equivalent. By the way. Those thin stainless steel flanges are too weak and bend. So if the flange is too high and you tighten the toilet bolts. You'll never get the pedistal tight to the floor and when someone heavy sits on it. The toilet will spin breaking the seal of the wax ring.
@@PlumbingExplained Supposed to be but is not always hence, extra thick wax.
I use nothing but the flanges with a stainless ring. Worth the extra cost and I always explain why I customers. Even in new construction.
Sitting in an uneven toilet is just what I need👍🏻
I use to try and decipher comments like this.
@@PlumbingExplained can tell he’s probably never even changed out a water heater 🤔
every job has its cool tips and tricks and this is one of them. Nice engineering bucko!
Stainless steel is highly resistant to rust and corrosion though it's not entirely rust proof.
That's extremely great information to learn, I will definitely remember that, thank you for posting your video 😊
You’re welcome
My mom's bf nephew didn't do a good job at putting a toilet in.
I believe the toilet we have, has the same deep hole, but we live in a house in the suburbs. They used so many of the wax rings.
They use 8 of these (or something like that). It doesn't leak at all, but the toliet moves easily, but my mom doesn't care, just as long it doesn't leak
Do you replace toilet flanges the same way? Let me know in the comments! I try to reply to every comment that merits a reply! Thanks for stopping by!!!
No, i don’t charge my customers for pointless bs for “reasons” . Why do you think they make extra thick wax rings for? You would be surprised by how much psi a wax ring can take when installed properly. The ones we tested broke between 90 something and 110 psi.
@@PlumbingExplained lol ok, thanks for proving my point, we have plenty of your type in the industry who rip people off for no reason. Guys like you are why people hate real plumbers. Stick to TH-cam capt ripoff, it seems you’re better at making videos than plumbing buttercup.
@@nickkirschner3719 I can’t take you seriously, I don’t think the content I make is suited for you, I’d probably stop watching and commenting.
@@PlumbingExplained your content is made to mess homeowner’s up so they have to call a licensed contractor. Maybe you made it to make yourself feel better about ripping off your customers, Who knows ?
Yes except i use stainless or coated screws🤘
I can't believe people are commenting saying that you did a great job. That was hack work.
No flange stacker.... So now there's no support for the stainless ring. And you have a huge void between the subfloor and the stainless ring. The only thing that's holding it there are the tiny little lips that hold the stainless still ring onto the fitting.....which will fail!
If you don't know how to do it correctly, don't do it at all....... Actually no scratch that I love guys like you. You give me plenty of work.
Joe you sound like a typical know it all dog shit plumber, you don’t see the thick layer of concrete float extruding from the tile Joe? The flange is resting on that Joe. You remind me of another Joe that’s kinda confused and talks out his ass 🤷♂️
@@PlumbingExplained
Oh, you mean that tiny little lip...You got the stainless ring setting on only on one side..... Yeah, still not right.
Soooo Yeah, you're still a hack.
Do better work and learn how to take criticism and the way you handle criticism lets me know every job you do is most likely really messed up.
But thank you for all the work you give me.
Love that tip because every one else says use a double thick ring. You’re doing it right!
Very true. Thats exactly what happened to me. Flange lower rhan floor. Plumber put in 2 wax rings. I blew those out after a clog leaking again. Not sure how this plumber did the job as i couldnt watch him. But i think he did it correctly because it took him alot longer. And i could hear him doing some cutting
3 inch insert chokes down the pipe where your apt to get a plug. Only choke a 3 inch pipe down if there's no other option. Otherwise do it right an replace it with a coupling, new pipe an flange. Be sure to use screws that don't rot also. Everyone is mentioning stainless. .. but it won't matter if the screws rot out. I'd suggest exterior deck screws.
Quality work sir!
PLUNGING blows out the wax rings! Well hell, you just explained away one of the mysteries of the universe to me. THANK YOU!
When the clog isn’t isolated to the toilet, if the clog is down in the drain line and you over plunge the pressure has to go somewhere, the wax is typically the weakest point
Word of advice...if you are replacing your bathroom floor. Have a plumber come out to evaluate the flange and repair if necessary. Flooring guys will screw it up or ignore the problem.
This is exactly what's happening to mine. The contractor re-installed the toilet but did not raise it. Now I have small leak into the ceiling whenever I flush. I need to get one of those and take care of it myself
Good info! Timestamp: 0:00
Stainless rings, stainless screws…and support the ring..the plumbing may move as most of the DWV are direct connected to the flange…your in ABS country, we stopped the use in the 80s here, some manufactured housing later…but the toilets require a secure attachment to keep seal integrity…
2 years of a wobbly toilet , I can't thank you enough dawg
Great video sir, appreciated sharing the knowledge you have. Great solution, top-notch! You went for the stainless too! Using your Milwaulkee, doing a thorough job! But in the end, you use a regular hammer to strike the stainless, no block? I saw no level/straight edge to get that level 'n' flush? I'm sure that was done off-camera.
me I'd put a pipe in hole and level with fast concrete, so flange is on top of floor..you got nothing under flange it will move.. just me.. I like doing it once... remember old baths had 6 Inches of concrete to level them.. fun to remove.. do as old builders did level with concrete..
U did good by leaving the flange flush withe floor .many plumbers leave it about n that can create a leak.
Thanks for this video ! Educational if people pay attention !
Thank you! I appreciate your comment very much!! All I can do is provide the information, it’s up to them to decide what to do with it, Kind of like a learn from my mistakes type approach.
Well done! Good Job!!!
Thank you!
Yup 3” hub will glue to 4” pipe nice work
@@ElPlomeroChingon thank you bro! Appreciate you stopping by and leaving a comment
Appreciate your videos man. Keep up the great content. Also ordered Mark Foley’s foot pedal for my K-9 12. Can’t wait to use it.
Thanks for the video! When you screw the flange to the floor/subfloor is it OK to have a gap under it or does it need to be seated right on the wood? I am doing an install but there's about 1/4" gap underneath the bottom edge of the metal ring.
Just installed the set rite to bring the level slightly above tile level. Hope it works.
Good job buddy
This is a 4" street flange (goes inside the pipe rather than outside of pipe). You can still do it if you have 3" pipe. A 3" street flange opening is still as large as the passage way in most toilets. But I do think paper, etc can get hung up easier on a 3" street flange. Most floors are rotted if the old flange wasnt seated. Should fix that.
Instead of using a hammer on the flange, I used a small pice of 2x4 across the opening then hit the 2x4 knocking the flange into place evenly.
You should have back supported the flange underneath with broken pieces of tile before screwing it to the base floor. The flange is supposed to sit flush on the finished floor.
An elegant solution.
It's really easier to do the right thing, good vid.
I don't know who did the plumbing in this 1890s home, but I have tried every ring I could find at Lowes. Septic was pumped and it still clogs, and when I plung I blow the wax out. Original floor rotted around the plastic ring so I nailed a 3/4 plywood to the floor, put in an insert into the pipe. Broke the plastic ring, got another with stainless, blew the wax, got the rubber ring to replace and it still goes around it. Had a few broken pipes from freezing, so now I have to repair the floor and fix everything. Going to put a 45 under the toilet and remove the 90 as that should help with the clogs (I hope) but some of the clogs are just under the toilet where the drains and vent pipe tie in. I plan on replacing it with 45s to stop those clogs. Hopefully that will remedy the whole mess. Anything I am missing ? ( the crawl space under the bathroom is too small for me. And the last plumber I had was wasaay too expensive for the little bit he did)
I use acrylic spacers cut on a glow forge to raise the flange to where it needs to be and stub down as needed to connect to the old pipe.
I’ve used the spacers before, they’re ok but I like actually raising the flange. Appreciate you leaving a comment on how you do it!
@@PlumbingExplained I didn’t know they were commercially available. Mine are custom made using the floor flange as the template. The drawing goes from the computer to the laser so I get an exact fit. I’ll look for the store ones.
Thanks for explaining that.
Thank you for explaining and giving value to your videos
Thank you. I needed that info.
Great advice, especially in an older house.
Definitely!!! Thanks for leaving a comment!
You sound like the guy who describes how a plumbis is made 😂😂 with the way you narrated the vid 😂
What happens when you cut that flange off and your pipe drops down several feet it happens. It actually happened to me in my own home. I’m actually lucky. I guessed that the floor was also rotted because I could get down under it to pull it up and install my new flooring and then replace the flange.. yeah if they have happened to this guy, he would’ve had a mess but that was fairly easy job he had.
I seal the whole thing! Screws, seams, edges, holes, everything!
This why I tell homeowners all the time stop hiring handymen to do plumbing work. Handymen are great for other things but there is knowledge in plumbing. Plumbing is not just unclogging toilets. What happens when you cannot unclog it. So you run the snake what happens when running the snake does not work or it does work and then a few days later clogs back up again. Are they going to know why that keeps happening? Not likely. In most cases roots are the cause but in other cases it’s because a fitting was out on backwards. I don’t know how many times I’ve seen that, especially in remodels.
I truly wish GA protected their plumbers like they do up north. Grant you I have job security with all the handymen screwing up. 😅😂
I like to put glue on the flange and seal is one of the most Peggy Hill things I have heard today.
Great advise my friend. Knowledgeable information here folks👍
Absolutely flabbergasted that any positive response exists on this video. There isn't a scenario in which a flange should be recessed or raised slightly without support underneath. Flange should be mounted on top of the finished floor. there isn't an excuse otherwise. Fix the floor, extend the pipe if necessary, and set the flange properly.
To anyone wondering they have this for cast iron pipes as well. Where a rubber grommet slips into the cast iron pipe, and then a give height will be there. But that should be used as a last ditch effort, cause in the end the rubber - seals - gaskets - wax , all that crap wears down over time.
you can use risers to lift the flange if it has new flooring instead of chipping it out the oldschool way... good install just. abit of infor that is helpful. they sell kits at local supply house.
You Rock!!
Fixed the chicken coop thanks to your excellent explanation. ❤❤💪💯🏆🐓
If the bottom of the flange is flush with finish floor that is the ideal height. If the top of the flange is flush with finish floor you must use a jumbo wax ring.
The problem is usually having something to screw into by this point. Many times I have had to open the floor space and buildout some framing to properly secure the flange into. If it is concrete I usually use hydraulic cement in those instances.
Thnx 4 the tip I'm doing this tomarrow
Absolutely perfect 👌