intention to inform: there are juwlers resin pads. You heat them up and place what ever inside the puddle then you work the piece. When you are done you take a blowtorch and melt the piece out. That resin clinches to almost anything like a visegrip. Maybe you give it a try. The mix is mostly made from pine resin a relative hard resin.
I was surprised to see sparking. I grind a lot of stainless steel dry on my Boyar schultz. With Zero sparks. You have a really nice grinder. Thanks for showing your controller setup.
I'm very wary about grinding stainless as sudden heat buildup has caught me out. Free machining brass grinds easily, stuck down with double sided tape (released with acetone), but brass sheet or plate doesn't.
How do you address warpage in such thin pieces, especially if they are longer ones like the shims you used to hold down the discs. I have been fighting warping of pieces with 0.120 thick and 5 inches long. Usually hardened tool steel but still, the same principles should apply
I had to deal with this exact issue. I made two videos one called Stressfully Flat, and the other called Fantastic Failure. These are under the Live Video section of my channel. They also make good listens, because most of the information is in the audio. I talk about how I attacked the very problem you describe, the most successful technique of which is the so-called paper towel trick. I try to capture as much of what I learned in those Live sessions and others so I won’t do it here. The enemy to flatness is your magnet. The magnet will pull the parts straight prior to grinding, and that leads to a non-flat part.
@@KPNH should have searched your channel before commenting the question. I will check them out today, and if any questions pop up I will ask there. Thanks again!
I enjoyed seeing step by step use explained in basic terms of using the grinder; that can be hard to find on TH-cam
Thank you!
intention to inform: there are juwlers resin pads. You heat them up and place what ever inside the puddle then you work the piece. When you are done you take a blowtorch and melt the piece out. That resin clinches to almost anything like a visegrip. Maybe you give it a try. The mix is mostly made from pine resin a relative hard resin.
I was surprised to see sparking. I grind a lot of stainless steel dry on my Boyar schultz. With Zero sparks. You have a really nice grinder. Thanks for showing your controller setup.
CNC controlled surface finish - nice
I'm very wary about grinding stainless as sudden heat buildup has caught me out. Free machining brass grinds easily, stuck down with double sided tape (released with acetone), but brass sheet or plate doesn't.
The flood coolant helps prevent problems. 👊
Did grinding like that , tricky with grit being able to flow under part
How do you address warpage in such thin pieces, especially if they are longer ones like the shims you used to hold down the discs. I have been fighting warping of pieces with 0.120 thick and 5 inches long. Usually hardened tool steel but still, the same principles should apply
I had to deal with this exact issue. I made two videos one called Stressfully Flat, and the other called Fantastic Failure. These are under the Live Video section of my channel. They also make good listens, because most of the information is in the audio. I talk about how I attacked the very problem you describe, the most successful technique of which is the so-called paper towel trick. I try to capture as much of what I learned in those Live sessions and others so I won’t do it here. The enemy to flatness is your magnet. The magnet will pull the parts straight prior to grinding, and that leads to a non-flat part.
@@KPNH should have searched your channel before commenting the question. I will check them out today, and if any questions pop up I will ask there. Thanks again!
do you have a mist collector on that? or feel like it would be necessary to have one?
Yes, I have a Mist-Fit 550 by Aeroex.