DIY repairers coming here, choosing between the two must understand choice depends on the type of repair. Polyester only suitable for new part construction or a VERY superficial repair. The author fails to mention vinylester which is critical option to your repair decision. Polyester yields a weaker repair because it slightly shrinks when cured, weakening any secondary bond. Vinylester does not shrink and is therefore stronger. If gelcoat is to be applied, vinylester has its advantages in that it is chemically compatible with polyester gelcoat and will chemically bond with the vinylester repair (if applied shortly after cure time).
Great points, thanks for sharing. I will have to do a video that covers all three point out the additional factors you shared. Thanks for stopping by and for the feedback !
Greetings! Great comparison. By the way, I have a plan to make a crossbow limb. Do you using epoxy resin with fiberglass cloth would work? Or do I need to have core material first? This is not relly related to boat building but I'm just trying my luck here. Thanks!
I am by no means and expert on creating glass objects that bend. Everything we go with on the boat has the objective of being super stiff, Resin + Glass would be quite brittle, I am not sure if a core would help either. At a guess I would suggest either kevlar or carbon fibre matt rather than glass fibre, it will have more strength and should make it less brittle.
Good comparision, but I miss a few properties to be compared, namely UV-resistance, weight and toxicity. Well, I guess toxicity is partly covered by the "odour"-part.
Great Question, vinylester is a third alternative. For most of the characteristics it would sit in the middle of the two resins covered in this video. I choose to review the extremes to highlight the key differences.
Russ, depending on the finish you are looking for and the time you have there are a couple of options. If you are filling a big indent or joining surfaces the best option is to use some glass or kevlar matt. The resin will absorb into this, it reduces the dripping and allows you to increase the thickness of the glass quickly. If you use this it will require you to sand it smooth before applying and top coat. If you are looking for a smooth finish without matt it is best to apply in really thinly to avoid dripping, the down side is it may take a few coats (follow the drying instructions before applying the second coat to). The last option is to increase the hardener to resin mix, stir the well until it starts to set before applying, you will need to be quick as once it starts to thicken it can go hard quickly. You need to judge it well to avoid applying it after it becomes too hard to spread. Additional hardener can make the glass more brittle once it has cured. Hopefully on of these options helps with your repair !!!
epoxy will bond to steal, I would suggest preparing the metal by sanding with a low grit sand paper the epoxy will then bond into the small groves this create. I would not put paint on first as the epoxy will bond to this and the paint would have a weaker bond than the epoxy.
@@BottomUPBoats After looking at all the epoxy resins, I don't know how I'm supposed to choose one. They all seem to have a 24 hour cure time which is fine for a tabletop or some jewelry thing, but it would take forever to get the walls of a mower deck. Too hard to try to find answers for this bs.
Bottom UP - Boats • 1 year ago 1.47K subscribers Great Question, vinylester is a third alternative. For most of the characteristics it would sit in the middle of the two resins covered in this video. I review the extremes to highlight the key differences. You are the 3rd or 4th person to ask this, I think it could be time to do an updated video. Polyester yields a weaker repair than both Vinylester and Epoxy because it slightly shrinks when cured, weakening any secondary bond. Vinylester does not shrink and is therefore stronger. If gelcoat is to be applied, vinylester has its advantages in that it is chemically compatible with polyester gelcoat and will chemically bond with the vinylester repair (if applied shortly after cure time). Stay tuned for an updated review video.
It can be used, if the cracks are below the water line we would use epoxy as it is more water resistant. If it is above the water line it is best to match the repair to the resin type with the cracks. Spider cracks can be hard to permanently fix as they often come from the stress applied in the normal use of your boat. Some things to consider. 1) sand the area focusing on the cracks to lower the hight along the crack line. 2) clean with acetone. 3) apply a thin coat over the area using straight edge to smooth the resin if possible. 4) sand and clean again before applying your pant. Good luck with your repair.
very helpful thanks
Thanks for visiting our channel, glad you found the episode helpful.
DIY repairers coming here, choosing between the two must understand choice depends on the type of repair. Polyester only suitable for new part construction or a VERY superficial repair. The author fails to mention vinylester which is critical option to your repair decision. Polyester yields a weaker repair because it slightly shrinks when cured, weakening any secondary bond. Vinylester does not shrink and is therefore stronger. If gelcoat is to be applied, vinylester has its advantages in that it is chemically compatible with polyester gelcoat and will chemically bond with the vinylester repair (if applied shortly after cure time).
Great points, thanks for sharing. I will have to do a video that covers all three point out the additional factors you shared. Thanks for stopping by and for the feedback !
thank you , great simple sumary , safe me to explain , explain again to mates..
Glad you like it and learnt something along the way.... Thank for stopping by and engaging on my channel !!!
pro edits love it! ty for the chart
Thanks for stopping by and for the feedback. Glad you found the content useful.
great format for an info vid!
Jeremy, thanks for stopping by and for the feedback. We are glad you found the content useful 👍
Greetings!
Great comparison.
By the way, I have a plan to make a crossbow limb. Do you using epoxy resin with fiberglass cloth would work? Or do I need to have core material first? This is not relly related to boat building but I'm just trying my luck here. Thanks!
Correction: do you think
I am by no means and expert on creating glass objects that bend. Everything we go with on the boat has the objective of being super stiff, Resin + Glass would be quite brittle, I am not sure if a core would help either. At a guess I would suggest either kevlar or carbon fibre matt rather than glass fibre, it will have more strength and should make it less brittle.
Good comparision, but I miss a few properties to be compared, namely UV-resistance, weight and toxicity. Well, I guess toxicity is partly covered by the "odour"-part.
Thanks for the feedback good points to add. It may be time for a part 2....
I am making a table out of a tree stump and there is a hole in the center which should I fill it with and use for the top of the table?
I would go with polyester.
Bottom UP - Boats that’s what I thought thanks
Why is vinylester not listed?
Great Question, vinylester is a third alternative. For most of the characteristics it would sit in the middle of the two resins covered in this video. I choose to review the extremes to highlight the key differences.
Bottom UP - Boats -Thanks! Do you know what type of resin sticks to vertical or surfaces, or undersides better -or do they both drip right off??
Russ, depending on the finish you are looking for and the time you have there are a couple of options.
If you are filling a big indent or joining surfaces the best option is to use some glass or kevlar matt. The resin will absorb into this, it reduces the dripping and allows you to increase the thickness of the glass quickly. If you use this it will require you to sand it smooth before applying and top coat.
If you are looking for a smooth finish without matt it is best to apply in really thinly to avoid dripping, the down side is it may take a few coats (follow the drying instructions before applying the second coat to).
The last option is to increase the hardener to resin mix, stir the well until it starts to set before applying, you will need to be quick as once it starts to thicken it can go hard quickly. You need to judge it well to avoid applying it after it becomes too hard to spread. Additional hardener can make the glass more brittle once it has cured.
Hopefully on of these options helps with your repair !!!
Was considering using one of them as an undercoat for a rebuilt mower deck.
Would it have adequate adhesion to steel, or painted steel?
epoxy will bond to steal, I would suggest preparing the metal by sanding with a low grit sand paper the epoxy will then bond into the small groves this create. I would not put paint on first as the epoxy will bond to this and the paint would have a weaker bond than the epoxy.
@@BottomUPBoats After looking at all the epoxy resins, I don't know how I'm supposed to choose one. They all seem to have a 24 hour cure time which is fine for a tabletop or some jewelry thing, but it would take forever to get the walls of a mower deck. Too hard to try to find answers for this bs.
What about vinyl-ester resin?
Bottom UP - Boats
• 1 year ago 1.47K subscribers
Great Question, vinylester is a third alternative. For most of the characteristics it would sit in the middle of the two resins covered in this video.
I review the extremes to highlight the key differences. You are the 3rd or 4th person to ask this, I think it could be time to do an updated video.
Polyester yields a weaker repair than both Vinylester and Epoxy because it slightly shrinks when cured, weakening any secondary bond. Vinylester does not shrink and is therefore stronger. If gelcoat is to be applied, vinylester has its advantages in that it is chemically compatible with polyester gelcoat and will chemically bond with the vinylester repair (if applied shortly after cure time).
Stay tuned for an updated review video.
Are epoxy fillers good for allot of spider cracks we will be painting for the finished surface
It can be used, if the cracks are below the water line we would use epoxy as it is more water resistant. If it is above the water line it is best to match the repair to the resin type with the cracks. Spider cracks can be hard to permanently fix as they often come from the stress applied in the normal use of your boat. Some things to consider.
1) sand the area focusing on the cracks to lower the hight along the crack line.
2) clean with acetone.
3) apply a thin coat over the area using straight edge to smooth the resin if possible.
4) sand and clean again before applying your pant.
Good luck with your repair.
@@BottomUPBoats thank you!
Your welcome.
Mis read your odour. Poly u will need mask...
Thanks for stopping my and engaging, if you are in a type space with limited airflow or ventilation I agree a mask is a good idea to keep you safe.