Not boring (pun intended) at all! I always enjoy all your videos. I've learned a lot, and if I'm not learning, I'm enjoying watching the machining work being done. I also enjoy watching your foundry work videos. I don't do any of that work now but I might in the future.
I often turn the boring bar upside down and cut on the far side of the bore-make it a lot easier to see the cut. Of course, you could also keep the boring bar right side up and run the lathe in reverse, if reverse cutting is safe on your lathe. Thanks for the great videos.
Hi John 😊, good video mate, should help alot of people starting lathe work, and no it wasn't boring, you showed the hole thing inside out and it turned out a treat, lol. Thanks for another interesting video bonny lad, stay safe, best wishe's to you and Debs, Stuart UK.
Have you tried their carbide or HSS boring bars that use inserts? I bought a HSS and a carbide bar that use inserts and they give a nicer finish than the steel one that I had, I believe because of less flex. The model numbers will be different for what type you get, steel will start with S, HSS will start with H and carbide will start with C. Example would be for a 10mm bar, S10K H10K or C10K. Going from steel to HSS makes a big difference alone at twice the price but it is still very reasonable.
Well, if you are getting in on the boring joke I will too! That was very boring! Good tips. Biggest problem with boring is the bar is being pushed from the side and frequently has excessive extension compared to a knife tool pushed from the front and usually not extended very far.
Thanks for the lesson. Will You show how to angle boring bars in a boring head on the mill? I've got boring bars without any flat, just cylindrical holder. I know the clearance angle is needed but that still leaves a lot... Some poor cutting behaviour has been noticed.
Alright John, have you had any joy getting any more of those diamond shaped inserts from Banggood? I bought loads of tooling and inserts a year ago or but I’ve hammered through the inserts making stainless steel parts. Now that I’ve come to buy more they are out of stock, I dont really want to have to buy another load of tools……
This is the one I’ve been waiting on! I’m noticing that your boring bars have a flat on the shaft, whereas all of mine are round and fit into a block tool holder. That setup allows the boring bar to be turned within the block, and there’s no flat to register the tool in a specific place. I’m guessing that on bars with the flat, the flat is machined on the same plane as the carbide insert, which keeps the carbide level? Fill me in! Great video John!
The boring bars I have do have flats formed onto them. I used to wonder why the inserts were out of level when the bar was tightened in the tool post. It took me a little while to realize it was for clearance inside the bore.
@@arcburn3364 So in essence, the point of the carbide is on center, but it’s actually on an upward angle behind the point for clearance underneath, and not level, correct?
Love your video's- I was born in Durham 72 years ago and left for Australia in 1964 and its great to hear that accent ✌✌✌✌
Loved the "Carry on" script John !!
Good old double entendre. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Not boring (pun intended) at all! I always enjoy all your videos. I've learned a lot, and if I'm not learning, I'm enjoying watching the machining work being done. I also enjoy watching your foundry work videos. I don't do any of that work now but I might in the future.
Remember kids, STIFFNESS is more important than a lot of stickout! 😛
I often turn the boring bar upside down and cut on the far side of the bore-make it a lot easier to see the cut. Of course, you could also keep the boring bar right side up and run the lathe in reverse, if reverse cutting is safe on your lathe. Thanks for the great videos.
Hi John 😊, good video mate, should help alot of people starting lathe work, and no it wasn't boring, you showed the hole thing inside out and it turned out a treat, lol. Thanks for another interesting video bonny lad, stay safe, best wishe's to you and Debs, Stuart UK.
Very informative John, every little helps. Cheers.
Nice work John. Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks John... Not boring at all, well except for the boring action - lol...
Excellent tutorial thanks John.
Excellent information John, keep'um coming..
Have you tried their carbide or HSS boring bars that use inserts? I bought a HSS and a carbide bar that use inserts and they give a nicer finish than the steel one that I had, I believe because of less flex.
The model numbers will be different for what type you get, steel will start with S, HSS will start with H and carbide will start with C. Example would be for a 10mm bar, S10K H10K or C10K. Going from steel to HSS makes a big difference alone at twice the price but it is still very reasonable.
Thanks John
Well, if you are getting in on the boring joke I will too! That was very boring! Good tips. Biggest problem with boring is the bar is being pushed from the side and frequently has excessive extension compared to a knife tool pushed from the front and usually not extended very far.
Thank you sir
Thanks for the lesson.
Will You show how to angle boring bars in a boring head on the mill?
I've got boring bars without any flat, just cylindrical holder. I know the clearance angle is needed but that still leaves a lot... Some poor cutting behaviour has been noticed.
great video what make and model quickchange toolpost do you use
Sir i am little bit confused to use this tool this boring tool we can use for turning or not kindly tell me sir
Very useful, thanks !
You didn't mention cemented carbide tools. Are they of any use?
Alright John, have you had any joy getting any more of those diamond shaped inserts from Banggood? I bought loads of tooling and inserts a year ago or but I’ve hammered through the inserts making stainless steel parts. Now that I’ve come to buy more they are out of stock, I dont really want to have to buy another load of tools……
Never had any for a while I will look in to it
Thanks
Nice video
This is the one I’ve been waiting on! I’m noticing that your boring bars have a flat on the shaft, whereas all of mine are round and fit into a block tool holder. That setup allows the boring bar to be turned within the block, and there’s no flat to register the tool in a specific place. I’m guessing that on bars with the flat, the flat is machined on the same plane as the carbide insert, which keeps the carbide level? Fill me in! Great video John!
The boring bars I have do have flats formed onto them. I used to wonder why the inserts were out of level when the bar was tightened in the tool post. It took me a little while to realize it was for clearance inside the bore.
@@arcburn3364 So in essence, the point of the carbide is on center, but it’s actually on an upward angle behind the point for clearance underneath, and not level, correct?
@@tomt9543 Really it’s what I would call a downward slant or tilt to give more clearance under the tip of the insert.
😁👍☕
as per brill
Enjoying this series, thanks for your help.
Great video, thanks!