Cummins ISX IMAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) CM 2350 Sensor. Fast and easy to clean and/or Replace.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ม.ค. 2018
- In this Video We cover the IMAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure). If you're experiencing bad fuel economy, rough idle, turbo codes... Change this sensor out. They are cheap and easy to replace. If nothing at all, just take it out and clean it. This little sensor puts alot of owner ops out of business.
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I was parked in that very spot looking at your videos!! I upgraded my dat account to the pro version, got the imap sensor and the other one you swapped out and just did that today. You passed me onetime out on the road, I remember the shift knob! I need to replace the oil pressure sensor, fix the front structure leak, and a key off no power in the bunk electrical problem, so keep up the videos!
Hey man, I’m a certified Cummins mid-range / heavy duty tech at Cummins in Kenner, La. I can tell you that you’ll get map, turbo, EGR and coolant fault codes all from this issue your cleaning. Also, if your cleaning / replacing this MAPT (Intake Manifold Pressure & Temperature) sensor every 80,000 miles the issue isn’t this sensor man. It’s the EGR system starting to malfunction. You need to disassemble the entire EGR system including the EGR cooler and steam clean, not pressure wash all the hard components. Then you use CRC Contact cleaner to clean all electrical components (sensors only). For the EGR valve, just use a sandwich bag to cover the Electrical motor and seal it with a thick rubber band tightly winched around the bag. Then steam clean the internal passages of the EGR valve, try to operate the EGR poppet valve to assure while steam cleaning you get the poppet valve sealing surfaces as well. Then reassemble the EGR system with new gaskets / seals and your set. This EGR system maintenance should be done roughly every 100,000 miles. If done correctly your EGR system and MAPT sensor won’t soot up like yours has done repeatedly. Cummins doesn’t publicize this info, we techs call it an EGR service due to a aftertreatment failure or EGR system failure. You should probably have your DPF pulse cleaned and baked every 150,000 miles as a preventative measure to keep the AFM (Aftertreatment) and your EGR system both working with ease and correctly for many 100’s of 1,000’s of miles without any failures. Hope, I helped you with this info., trust me Cummins WON’T tell you this until something fails or causes other very expensive EGR, AFM or any number of air handling issues with your engine. Also, every oil change you should ask your cummins shop to check for any ECM Revisions. If any are available, I STRONGLY recommend you having them update the ecm code to keep it current. Doing so will keep false occurrences of ANY fault codes gone as well as give you updated system diag functions (if available) as long as you use Cummins Insite V8.2 or higher to connect to your ECM. Some faults codes just give you a yellow (CEL) check engine light, some other give you a (CEL & and a SEL) red stop engine light which may end you up derate to 5 mph or engine shutdown. One last thing, please do your engine lube services as the Cummins Operation & Maintenance Manual tells you to do depending on the duty cycle you operate your rig. This will keep your engine and aftertreatment system working as it should as well. I’m not defending Cummins but, I am telling your what I see as a cummins tech and how I address it. In 7 years I haven’t had a comeback on any of the repairs or maintenance I’ve told you about. Just don’t tell a cummins shop that, they’ll lie to your face and take your money. I get in trouble with my boss all the time simply for telling the customer the truth and recommending an actual fix or maintenance to the customer to save them money. This takes business away from Cummins so they don’t like the customers knowing our tricks of the trade especially if the trick keeps the truck out of the shop and on the road. By doing so keeps the customer from having to bring their rig to us to fix. Most techs in the shop I’m at just do the repair straight forward and they don’t honestly tell the customer about things noticed that really do need to be fixed or try to up sell a repair that’s not really necessary. We don’t work by commission, we’re just on the clock working by efficiency to get raises and promotions. Selling extra shit to customers doesn’t make us techs more money, other than giving us more to do so the company gets more money in labor and parts sales. This is how 90% of Cummins distributor and Cummins approved smaller shops work based on clock hours not commission.
Awesome Share!! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!
MakeCents another thing about using Cummins Insite is that, you get many other functions to aid in maintenance or to diagnose for a better repair. Here a few I know off the top of my head. Cylinder Cutout Test, Cylinder Performance Test, Aftertreatment Stationary Regen, DPF restriction Test, SCR Catalyst Performance Test, Injector Performance Test, DEF Doser Valve Override Test, High Pressure Common Rain Leakage Test and VGT Actuator Heuristics Test. There may be more or less functions depending on engine model and engine control system. From the video I can’t barely see your ECM but, it looks like your ECM has the two big 96-pin connectors. If that’s true then you have at least a CM2350 (2013 or Later) engine control system. So, you should have access to most if not all of those function or more as long as you use Cummins Insite V8.2 or later. These tests or functions we use in conjunction with CSS (Cummins Sales & Service) which is for us techs is guided troubleshooting steps. Using CSS and QSOL (Quick Serve On Line) which is where our service manuals are among many other things is how we troubleshoot and repair Cummins engines day to day. Cummins Insite is expensive and a subscription to QSOL is pricy too but, you’d have true access to the exact same materials we use as Cummins Profession Techs to maintain, test, troubleshoot and repair your engine.
Hello, may I private messages you. Im in North Dakota working and have some questions. What is the best way for contacting you should you agree. Thanks
2013 kenworth has delete done. I pulling codes for intake manifold air temp. I replaced with two new sensors. What are your thoughts. I'm not much of a diesel mechanic and I feel that the shop up here is trying to take advantage , telling me it's a wiring harness issue, which it very well could be but I suppose.
Rebuilt with 300 miles on it. I'm poor enough now. Thanks
Thank you for the advice
@@80sfordguy you still do work in Kenner La? I’m in Slidell La and I need a mechanic asap.
Man, I cant wait to get this last load on in this lease truck so I can get in the one I just bought. First thing I will be doing is going straight to the KW dealer and grabbing some of the sensors you have been showing how to replace. Im sure there are a lot of guys who owe you a steak dinner.... I hope to be one of them.
shoot yeah man, they will save you alot of heartache.
The delta pressure censor is what will improve fuel milage the most ..but i suggest changing the
EGR TEMP CENSOR
EGR DELTA PRESSURE CENSOR AND THE MANIFOLD CENSOR.
All 3 go to your ECM ( engine computer) and give information so the the computer can decide your best air/feul mixture..
So if one cesor is dirty and one clean u will not be sending the correct info to the ECM ..
@@mikewasko4964 thank u will write this down.getting ready buy truck too
Got to change mine out and ran across you and Show good stuff thanks for the info
Good morning to you’ll ❤great video guys it really helps me I have a 2009 Volvo Cummins engine and for that little my truck was weak and wasting a lot of diesel thanks GOD BLESS YOU BOTH
Great service you are doing for Drivers who have that motor! Really wish someone did the same with my motor, but not that many bought the old Mercedes Benz 4000 motor. Not much info out there, other than general complaints because mechanics don't know how to work on them. I've been lucky with mine, but my buddy has experienced the opposite with his. He just picked it up from getting a rebuild today at 550,000! Way too young for a rebuild!
yes i agree. Lots are inframing the cummins way to early as well. Most say they are lucky to get 500k
Awesome info, just changed mine and it was completely crusted over. We'll see how she runs now.
Its a heat censor ,
Its just telling the ecm what temp the air is going into your intake so the ecm can adjust the fuel accordingly,. It will help a little on fuel milage but the main component u need to change for a big difference is the EGR DELTA censor..this messures pressures in your intake and is basically what tells your truck to regen or open or close the EGR VALVE ..if the delta pressure censor gets clogged up with soot if screws everything..also if your truck has 800 thousand miles or more its a good idea to go ahead and change the ECM . Its about $1500 for a remained ECM and easy to change but u have to run a new program on the engine when u replace it ..the ecm is crucial to fuel milage , regen ,and overall tell your engine how to burn fuel and air ...all these censors and the computer ,ecm, work together so if u chsnge one its a good idea to change them all .
Delta pressure censor
EGR heat temp censor
And the manifold heat and pressure censor.
All 3 should be changed together to maximize the information going to the ECM so it can adjust your air / fuel mixture accordingly..
If you chang one but anther is dirty I dout u see a difference in performance..
All 3 are simple to change and there are many you tube vids on all 3
I really like how this cat is telling everyone to be so sensitive and treat the sense of so delicately while pulling it out of the hole but then once you get it out beat the s*** out of it... LMAO
Its so you dont snap it off inside of the manifold lol. But, youre right i thought the same thing 😂
Use carb and choke cleaner or go to napa and get the cleaner for electrical parts. That way you don't dry out the plastic and cause early failure.
sheepdog 9/11 better replaced
Cummins told me they recommend you change it at 100000, mine was never changed for 525000, was the first thing I changed and could tell instantly. And of course the doser valve
What changes do you notice when you replace that doser valve? I just pulled my IMAP and I'm pretty sure its never been changed, bought my truck with 556k.
@@maxenra the imap reads the air mix coming in so it should start running better and small fuel gains the doser valve sprays diesel into the exhaust so if it's clogged it'll have harder time getting regens up to temp in a timely manner
A little tip on fussy connectors is while pressing the tab, push IN on the connector before pulling back. If it’s really dirty/dusty hit it with compressed air and/or brake clean/contact cleaner to clean it up. Same goes for cleaning debris BEFORE you open the engine.
Good tip :) Thank you!!
Just bought a truck with a Cummins x15. My friend gave me the same recommendations, check the sensor before changing anything else
Thx bro .. you save me lot of money.. work for me..
Awesome 😎
Thank you so much !
Thanks for saving money 💰 I appreciate i just changing
Ok miyoo ku noqday Hada ayaa rabaa inaa badalo please isoo jawab
Great video buddy
thanks bro
I did mine after watch your video, truck run perfect now. My other problem, what is it on cummins isx15 on 2015 kenworth T680 that kept showing Low Oil Pressure? I add 4 gallons of oil amonth ago and a monther later it giving me a low oil pressure at idle below 20 PSI.
very good master
Could you use mass air flow sensor cleaner for that sensor? After beating all of the suit out of it.
Throwing codes for replacing turbo you say? What about if its throwing codes for bad VGT solenoid, or VGT? Never thought to think about this! Have a code throw on my truck once a month, for VGT. Maybe i should look into that sensor.
I cleaned mine and it looked a whole lot uglier than yours. It did improve my fuel mileage after doing that.
I want to correct you about that sensor. It is a duel sensor, it measures pressure and temp. That sensing bulb is for measuring air temp, the pressure sensing part is deeper inside that protected area. You want make not clogged up with carbon.
Awesome!!
LADIES CAN DO THIS!!
10mm to loosen that bolt and BAM! took a but to wiggle it out as not to break it, like comments said.
Can't THANK YOU enough!!
Tired of the dealership doing all this stupid stuff just to keep you coming back and NOT fixing the REAL ISSUE! Took mine out and it looked like cake dough in there. +500k and I can't imagine if or when it was cleaned. Company driver and worth 10 minutes of my time to make my machine run like a top. the smell from not regen was bad. I still can't figure out why it said high temp regen when I hard braked.🤔
Hey bud , i had my main , rods , bearing replaced and the mechanic i had a hairpin leak coming from the liner ..is there a product I can add to maybe delay the leak so I can save some çash to repair? Also is there such a repair for leaking liners thanks
When i was a technition i would clean those whith inderct brake cleaner non-clorinated.let dry then re-instal. Dont use break cleaner or never wd40 or simuler.😊
soot magnets lol I just use water and a tooth brush. After I brush of course lol JK
I save shop fee thanks ,you did it
A small vaccum would be most best to clean around sensor hole. And that's a temperature, pressure sensor.
I know a few guys that bypass the egr and delete the DPF....retune and pickup a lot of MPG. I cant...i go to California too much but if i ever stop going to Cali i will fo the same thing. Or buy and old truck with rebuilt running gear.
mine will be that way before long
Someone isn't cleaning their EGR and intake every 100K miles like they are supposed to. Luckily all that "extra" junk fell off mine about 500K ago accidentally, so I haven't had to clean it since. Averaging 8 mpg is just another benefit, LOL
Just been 85k lol my is about ready to fall off I can feel it :)
How do you clean your EGR? Is it related to regen light blinking and on. I got this problem on my isx15.
Thanks for advice.
Mine was deleted and i dont have to do this crap anymore 😆
This sensor is eliminated when you delete the truck ?
The EGR flow of these engine makes it very difficult to maintain all these components. Delta P sensors, mixers, ports, and now I see Coolers clogging at less than 100K . Emissions is a MoFo..
If you change this censor , change the EGR delta censor also at the same time ..the delta censor has more to do with your fuel milage ..it is the one that measures pressure in the egr and tells your truck when to regen ..the heat censor just basically measures the heat of the air going in the intake
Am going to remember 👌🏿
Some people keep saying: "clean it up."
If I remember, the best way is remove all tube and clean up soot, after that install with a new sensor.
That was useful for the 870,871’s with the smaller tube. I did it on my last truck and realized it wasn’t needed. 2250 & 2350’s are not restricted like the older ones
@@MakeCentsTrucking hello bro help me whare kilometer wiring pls help
@@MakeCentsTrucking bro plss +971505944348 whatsaap help me I tell u 😭
Best way to reinstall tbose pull the dipstick get a lil oil on the oring and pop it with the handle of the screwdriver you used to gently pry it out of the hole with. A pick and ether or brake clean will clean it up like new
I have an international 2009 with cummins isx and the hot exahust light comes on and the engine loses power. If I clean that sensor, can it work normal?
Thanks man great peterbilt dealer ripoff paid $600 to change sensor but they reset code after 2 weeks check engine come back...
I have other issues any can help when rain 🌧water get in truck the floor wet water
What if the soot is slightly moist on the MAP/Boost Pressure Sensor?
Would a bad sensor cause your truck to shut down after idling for 30 minutes just fine and then just all of a sudden shut down exactly 30 minutes later
Break cleaner and starter fluid works best for cleaning it up just don't dry out the gasket on it.
Brake cleaner is a soot magnet. i wouldn't use that. Starter fluid or carb cleaner though is what i use too
Hey man where the heck is this sensor on the cm2250? I just can’t find it. Smh...thanks for the vid bro
I have a 2012 Peterbilt with ISX 386 when I’m driving down the highway my temperature hits 205 in the clutch fan comes on temperature will drop way down and the clutch fan will stay on until I either slow down or stop and shut the key off and Peterbilt cannot find the problem I replaced the sensors and still have that problem any recommendations I only have 335,000 miles on it. Seems like Peterbilt can’t find the problem I don’t know what it is I cleaned out the fins on the radiator thinking that might be yet but that wasn’t it so that’s why I ask if that part you replaced or you cleaned has anything to do with the fan clutch
Did you replace the thermostat. Just had the same problem. Changed thermostat and water filter and washed out radiator. And so far it seems to have fixed the problem. Make sure you take off AC condenser / on bolt it and pull it away from radiator. Hope that helps
Deleted mine and i get a lot less soot on that sensor now. And you should use carburetor cleaner to clean that sensor but never use brake cleaner
Great Video!! Do you have to kill all the power before removing the sensor??
No, just have the key in off position.
MakeCents how are you
They are like 65 70 bucks your motor is burning oil use carb cleaner if you use brake cleaner it will get filled up with soot and don't forget the other sensor by the turbo clean it as well
What other sensor by the turbo? Name?
Could I use brake cleaner on the connector and sensor?
no. its a soot magnet. I use just water and a toothbrush or even Carb cleaner but NO brake cleaner.
Can that cause loss of power climbing hills while loaded? Doesn't matter the weight either.
It can yes. It can throw a turbo code and cause derate if I’m remembering right.
Great video brotha. I have a question for ya. I have a deleted and tuned 2009 t660 with the isx, EGR full system delete and dpf delete and tuned. Would you recommend doing this still every 100k miles?
no need for it if deleted man
oh wait.. meaning imap,,im not sure. I think so. Hell I cant remember if its egr related or not.
MakeCents I think I'll replace it anyways. I put right under 100k on the truck since I've had it. Pretty sure it's never been replaced.
I dont blame you. Its a cheap piece to replace
Would this make your engine shake when you engage the engine break?
No. Sounds like jake solenoids 👊
Bro what oil do you use for that bad red beast?...I have the cm2250 I want to start using rotella t5 synthetic but I'm not sure 🤔 if synthetic will cause it to leak
I use Mobil Delvac :) The leaking, i'm not sure. Havent heard anything about that
When a 2350 has been deleted...would this sensor normally be bypassed in the new tune?
I cant remember. I don't think it has anything to do with egr, but I'm not sure.
This sucker still works with truck being deleted and still wanna replace it cause it in a sense controls air/fuel ratio. So itd be nice to keep
It clean even when deleted
One guys he got it out but always spray it with a electric cleaner and that's how you do it the rite way don't beat the sensor or use a toothbrush on it
What happens if the sensor goes bad?
Does that have anything to do with fan clutch staying on
No.
How come you wouldn't just use Brake Cleaner?
You could just use sensor cleaner
What if the sensor breaks off in there.... mine looked like someone already tried this, brokers it and stuck it back in with some super glue or something...
Carefully pry out with a pick... is how I ended up getting it out..
Can I use brake cleaner on the sensors? Like this one? Spray brake cleaner on connector and sensor??
Hack Daddy - Official - will get twice as dirty
Hack Daddy - Official - try carb n choke cleaner or best to just replace
u mean 850 000 mile?or clean it every 85k miles
Can u use starter fluid to clean it??
Yes, just don't use brake cleaner. Its a soot magnet I've been told
You can use carb and choke cleaner. Starting fluid is just ether. It's very bad on diesel engines and not really a cleaner. Ether drys out plastic and could cause it to fail.
What truck is this ?
I can’t find that sensor in my Cummins😟
Have you found someone you trust to do a delete? I'm trying to study the company that just reprograms and leaves the filters in place as passive filtration.
No such thing.
Have to remove filter for delete
Is this the boost pressure sensor? My Engine hesitates when accelerating and losses power on truck
No.
Juan did you find the problem on your truck.. my truck is doing the same?
@@fcoanaya5762 did you find the problem with your truck??
@@hectorramirez1808 I took mine and had a computer diagnosed.. it shows a fuel leak .. Mecanic thinks it might be the fuel pump top cylinder or the sensor going to fuel pump.. haven’t corrected the problem on those items yet..
Can this cause al pedal accel issues?
I’m having same problem. Pedal issues.. did you find the problem?
What year is this engine?
2013
So tell me how u no when to clean an replace cause my mpg drop. I have about 351,200 miles on her an having touch her yet cause I was told if ain't broke dont fix it
if I remember correct I was told to do it every 250k miles. Cheap enough to nip it in the bud :)
Anyone knows where this IMAX sensor is located on a 475 Cummins six st2???
what year?
You have the part number for that
Holy moly!!! Change your fuel filter. It’s black!!!!
Thats when its the most effective lmao
MakeCents ... I changed my sensor last year. 45 bucks at JX peterbilt in Madison. I lost boost and changed that. Back up and running.
To any cummins technician out there please help .
WE have a kenworth 909 with a X15 that has had a delete on the ad blue and turned up from 550 to 600hp . On a day to day basis the engine wil max out at 35 psi of boost but maybe one day every 10 days or so I will start it up and it will give me 40 to 42 psi of boost until I shut it down at the end of the day , how is this doing this and how can i keep it doing it as the extra 5psi makes the truck a complete different animal , it will pull 118.5 tonne straight up over some of the little
e jump ups we have on out run and the long steady I climes, when it is at 35 iam down two full gears . Please help
When ever it does this, turn it off and restart it. You do not want more than 35 psi on these engines. The compression is so high it’s too much. Mine isn’t a x15, I have a cm 2350 but same applies. Too much psi added with that HP, and you’ll beat your liners down and need a In frame in short time.
Mine is tuned and won’t even hit 32 psi
As to why it does this, I can’t know 🤷♂️
@@MakeCentsTrucking g'day mate thankyou for your reply I really appreciate your comments , I'm not sure what part of the world you are in but I'm in western Australia so I'm not sure if they have a different tune compared to where you are geographically located, In saying that we had a cummins tech at the yard a while back and he said that cummins has a tune for the X15 that's is a 750hp and we all said he was full of it but he assured us that cummins have got a tune for 750 but I cannot find any where that backs this up .. surely that kind of HP would require larger boost pressures .
All that said I will definitely take what you have said into consideration and while shut it off next time it happens , just maybe once it's done the pull to the top of the hill 😉
Hey buddy i got t 660 when turn on key check engine light blinking for like 20 seconds ,,then stops ,its like couple of weeks ago take to mechanic shop he could not find the prb hopefully u can suggest something,,i wanna talk to u ,, how we can exchange cell no.?
Bro I have no idea what that could be. There is Group on FB though you may find an answer. "ISX Solutions". There are some smart Cummins guys in there.
MakeCents thanks bro
Dont move the truck to save fuel best way jaajja
This world is ending. B
etter get right with jesus
With that much there. Just think how bad the rest of the EGR crap is.
Pete k yea no doubt. I’m ready to have it gone
Thats one good thing about the old 95 T600 of mine. But then again Ca would not like it. HAHA
👍👍👍🙏🙏🤠🔥🔥👍👍❤💞
750,000 miles never change and still get 7.5 mpg
Hey man my truck. Lost the Jake cruise and throttle response. It's give me j1939code. Id appreciate. Any advice. Great video btw.
Go over to Allison at YT channel Nutn but isx. Ask her, she’ll have an answer for you 🙌🙌 that’s the only shop i take my stuff too
You still haven't gotten a delete yet
not yet man
Hey guys a delete will eliminate this sensor ?
That sensor costs $50 bucks... VERY CHEAP, BUY A NEW ONE. They inner piece/reader is very sensitive, you can damage it and end up stranded on the side of the road and end up having to spend THOUSANDS with tow and dealer... IT IS ONLY 50 BUCKS!
It's painful to watch you struggle with the sensor,
😂
Nothing recommended about Cummins ISX i used to own couple trucks with Cummins engine I got rid of them. pretty much everything is failure on Cummins motors
I've had 2. Both has served me well. You just got to know the weak spots these red babies have.
IMPTS
89$
wow!! Biden did that lol Theyve went up
In .
Delete the kukka!!
Will a delete get rid of this sensor sir?
Be extremely gentle taking out this sensor , and than once you get it out beat the crap out of it on your aluminum step 😅 to clean it 🤔..and then push all the dirt around the open hole into the intake and carefully put the censor back in ..
And land star is not making all the money , land stars regional brokers go around every place they can and under cut everyone's good military rates by half and then broker and pedal their crap out on the broker board because their pwn driver dont want to even haul it ..
For instance , we had a contract in Cockeysville Md hauling unmanned aircraft units for
$4.00 a mi , we did it for 5 years until the landstar broker found this place and under cut the bid to $1.60 a mi ..🤔 wtf ?? Landstar never hsuled one load ,they brokerd it to CRST ..after 6 months we got our contract back at half of what it was $2.00 mi because CRST was strpping down the humvees across the hoods and roofs to hail them and fucked up the humvess ..its was a circus to say the least and basically they screwed our contract ..land star is one of the biggest problems in the Trucking industry and contribute heavily to why rates are low ...i got out of the military and went in to aviation specialized loads but we fight the same thing there with landstar trying to get their grubby little booty digging digits into our good contracts but we have for warned our customers of landstars tricks and how their trucks won't be hauling the items and have showed them pictures of many military vehicles they fucked up and are in the middle of being sued for ..best thing about hauling the over size engines for GE and Boing is the credentials and massive amounts of training a driver has to do to haul engines that cost 30 million each .because land star can't afford the insurance or the cost to train their drivers ...nothing worse than a big headed landstar contractor thinking he's better than everyone else on the rd because they lease to a greedy cut throat co
Huh?
@@AceMon2005 I know right ! I didn't consider the comprehension abilitys of truck drivers before I typed suck a long comment 🥴 .
Generally truck drivers get lost after the 1st sentence. In fact I better not go any further with this comment , its already past a 3rd grade comprehensive and reading level .