You sir are helping 1000s of people GOOD for you. Thank you for your work! If I ever can I will do the same. I will, if I ever can, get you work for you.
I am a wantabe machinest. I bought a shop from an older guy and am trying to learn. I am 53 years old so I am an older guy too! lol learning a lot from your videos. I am in the process of building a bullet swaging press and having a ball playing in my shop. I have some of the same problems you are having. I only use HSS bits in my lathe grind them myself. Can't afford the fancy tooling you are using. Keep the videos coming.
Hi John, Ah!, the trials and tribulations of a machinist. Love your work. One tip if I may, I learnt over many years to never trust a centre (especially a live centre) to be on centre height. The rule works the best. You can trust vertical. If you are having problems then very slight adjustments are Ok. BUT being above centre will NEVER work out. Unless you are boring. Another point to remember too is that the clearance under the cutting edge, could at times be the problem. Great Vids.
The jacket drawing videos was how I found you. I spend a lot of time on Castboolits looking at the press that they built. I measured a Walnut Hill press that a friend has. I worked on it all weekend and have decided to make it a little larger. Had a ball this weekend in the shop even though I am scrapping everything I did. I learned a lot. Am using a Grizzly lathe and a Enco drill mill. Full size equipment. I have a Emco lathe that is all metric. That comes in handy once in a while.
After reading some of the previous comments about old lathes I have a 12" Craftsman lathe from the 1960 era and it definitely has a threaded chuck. I never consider doing anything in reverse. It would be nice to get a modern lathe but then it would cost me more than I want to pay.
Congrats! My wife and I are expecting our second in April. My son loves watching the "Robots" (He's 2) on here so keep the videos rolling. If you are going to harden the O1, try using peanut oil. It has a much higher flash point, and the fumes are a lot less toxic than dino or mineral oil.
Make yourself a live center next, the bearings are cheap, you probably already have them, and it's really interesting. You will be cutting a taper, boring, threading, and practicing holding a tight tolerance. The piece is small and rather large, which will allow us all to see the tools cutting. A lot of second hand lathes don't come with that, and they're really useful.
One trick I've used on my parting tools is to #1 grind the nose square and true, as per usual. #2 trick I've used is to grind a couple of 45 degree corners on the parting tool. It helps break the chip, obviously, but to my way of thinking the 45 degree corners seemed to make the tool load lighter somehow. The left and right corners seemed to lessen and counteract the tool deflection.
I almost wrote the issue you were having. A good job takes time. Always blow out groves before you measure them to avoid measuring chips stuck in the grove. I suggest using a blade mic for measuring groves.The closer you are to nominal the better is a rule in this business. Not to say tolerance is not to be used, however the better chance you have to be right on nominal for total job. Use HHS on cuts if finish is a concern, they are cheap too. Your final cut should not "rub your tool" take .008
Hello I just wanted to comment on the parting off ..you cannot use any kind of center to use for parting off ...it will only make it bind etc.....the correct way would be to bring it close to the chuck and part it off then pull out your part and start over ...hope this makes sense
Yea it's fine. Especially if you have a cermet insert. I've cut heavy interrupted square plate that was flame cut, welds, hardened sockets. Your cut isn't that agressive. Tool Steel is also less abrasive than cast iron btw.
Relief is one of the issues, the other is the boring bar deflects (gets pushed down under cutting pressure and therefore this changes the clearances underneath. Next time you are using a boring bar that is sticking out a fair amount, watch when it makes contact with the material, you can see it deflecting. Peter
I have used those cheap chinese brazed carbide boring bars before, and they are a pain. Always have to custom grind them. At work these days we mostly use nothing but insert tooling. Custom shapes, I still have to make my own brazed tooling. Totally a blast making your own tools however. Specially when they come out spot on! Love the vids, and always remember to work safe!
Ya, it's what they are designed for. As you use the wheel, grit comes off leaving a fresh unloaded surface. Unfortunately, you have to dress the wheel often when shaping a brazed tool. For just sharpening an edge or point, you won't have to touch it up much.
The chinese (aka hobby, aka pseudo-lathes) lathes come with thread chucks and have grippers so it can be ran in reverse like you said. The 'grippers' are like two L shaped clamping pieces, 180 degrees apart axially, that screw into the spindle, and with the short line of the 'L' fit into a V groove on the chuck's back plate.
I watched all three videos and I think you did a good job making your tool, but I gotta tell ya in this first one I had flashbacks of that cutoff tool and the blade being cocked in the holder, I did that and thought it was ok but a few stitches later proved me wrong when the blade shattered plz be careful would like to see more from ya :)
A couple of points: 1) Unless you are purchasing ground stock, the material *should* be oversized, to allow for finish machining. 2) That microphone cord is in the danger zone, you should not have loose clothing or wires hanging from you while using the lathe.
Hmmm...Hard drive camcorder looked like a Sony HDR-SR11 with a 60 GB hard drive. If the camera was shutting down, that may be due to vibrations. If the camera senses a significant amount of vibration, it'll shut down to prevent damage to the hard drive.
NYC CNC One work around for the vibration induced shut down is use a memory card. That model uses a memory stick pro (Sony's proprietary format, of course) but you won't have to worry about premature shut downs. Might be worth the expense, might not. And if you want to get close to the subject, it has a macro setting. Real nice when you want to really get up close and personal with chips peeling off. You might also want to try manual focus, if you're not already doing so. It'll put and end that pesky tendency it has to either focus on the wrong subject or "breathe", i.e., hunt for the appropriate focus.
I have been enjoying all of the videos. I am of course interested in the subject. I cannot comment or like your facebook page as I do not have a facebook page myself. Please film the whole job of making the swage dies for us fans. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
I know a dead centre has less runout, but when working a hard to machine material like this, I'd use a live centre... I always do anyway, purely becauseit makes more sense to me, but I think that if a dead centre is better for you, then that's what you should do
Your part is getting hot because your heat transfer is insufficient from the birds nest being created from the chip breaker built into the insert not being able to do its job from the slow feed rate. hope this helps out some. We machine a lot of 17-4 and tool steel, and the best way to get rid of heat from the part is to make sure the chips grab the heat and break off.
looking at your drawing you are going to lose a lot of rigidity in that boring bar if you slice the majority of the minor diameter of it in half. I would remove just enough to form the cutting portion on the end of the bar.
i think hes confused. too many keith fenner vids maybe? when the tool is upside down, you are on the back of the work standard rotation. but you can also be behind the work, tool right side up, reverse rotation.. this scenario can unscrew the chuck on anything smaller than L00 {which does have a threaded collar, but also a key and a taper} Basically. Guys with old south bends need to be careful when doing "modern" things because you can cause the chuck to go flying off!!!!
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Thanks for pumping these out John... I love to see metal machined and all that goes into it.
You sir are helping 1000s of people GOOD for you. Thank you for your work! If I ever can I will do the same. I will, if I ever can, get you work for you.
I am a wantabe machinest. I bought a shop from an older guy and am trying to learn. I am 53 years old so I am an older guy too! lol learning a lot from your videos. I am in the process of building a bullet swaging press and having a ball playing in my shop. I have some of the same problems you are having. I only use HSS bits in my lathe grind them myself. Can't afford the fancy tooling you are using. Keep the videos coming.
Hi John, Ah!, the trials and tribulations of a machinist. Love your work. One tip if I may, I learnt over many years to never trust a centre (especially a live centre) to be on centre height. The rule works the best. You can trust vertical. If you are having problems then very slight adjustments are Ok. BUT being above centre will NEVER work out. Unless you are boring. Another point to remember too is that the clearance under the cutting edge, could at times be the problem. Great Vids.
Thank you for pouring skill into the USA!!!!!! GOOD JOB
DUDE
You are pumping the vid's out ;D I LOVE watching you do all this stuff! Keep this great work up! Have a nice day.
John...thanks. For the research...and I was referring to drill rod
The jacket drawing videos was how I found you. I spend a lot of time on Castboolits looking at the press that they built. I measured a Walnut Hill press that a friend has. I worked on it all weekend and have decided to make it a little larger. Had a ball this weekend in the shop even though I am scrapping everything I did. I learned a lot. Am using a Grizzly lathe and a Enco drill mill. Full size equipment. I have a Emco lathe that is all metric. That comes in handy once in a while.
After reading some of the previous comments about old lathes I have a 12" Craftsman lathe from the 1960 era and it definitely has a threaded chuck. I never consider doing anything in reverse. It would be nice to get a modern lathe but then it would cost me more than I want to pay.
Congrats! My wife and I are expecting our second in April. My son loves watching the "Robots" (He's 2) on here so keep the videos rolling. If you are going to harden the O1, try using peanut oil. It has a much higher flash point, and the fumes are a lot less toxic than dino or mineral oil.
Make yourself a live center next, the bearings are cheap, you probably already have them, and it's really interesting. You will be cutting a taper, boring, threading, and practicing holding a tight tolerance. The piece is small and rather large, which will allow us all to see the tools cutting. A lot of second hand lathes don't come with that, and they're really useful.
One trick I've used on my parting tools is to #1 grind the nose square and true, as per usual. #2 trick I've used is to grind a couple of 45 degree corners on the parting tool. It helps break the chip, obviously, but to my way of thinking the 45 degree corners seemed to make the tool load lighter somehow. The left and right corners seemed to lessen and counteract the tool deflection.
John, More good stuff. BTW when you extend the parting tool you need to reset the height.
I almost wrote the issue you were having. A good job takes time. Always blow out groves before you measure them to avoid measuring chips stuck in the grove. I suggest using a blade mic for measuring groves.The closer you are to nominal the better is a rule in this business. Not to say tolerance is not to be used, however the better chance you have to be right on nominal for total job. Use HHS on cuts if finish is a concern, they are cheap too. Your final cut should not "rub your tool" take .008
Hello I just wanted to comment on the parting off ..you cannot use any kind of center to use for parting off ...it will only make it bind etc.....the correct way would be to bring it close to the chuck and part it off then pull out your part and start over ...hope this makes sense
Yea it's fine. Especially if you have a cermet insert. I've cut heavy interrupted square plate that was flame cut, welds, hardened sockets. Your cut isn't that agressive. Tool Steel is also less abrasive than cast iron btw.
Relief is one of the issues, the other is the boring bar deflects (gets pushed down under cutting pressure and therefore this changes the clearances underneath.
Next time you are using a boring bar that is sticking out a fair amount, watch when it makes contact with the material, you can see it deflecting.
Peter
If you have a cam lock chuck ,cutting and threading in reverse with the tool upside down is a lot easer for me .
Had the same issue with O1 bar, I thought if I asked for 3/8" I would get .375, but that is not the case....going to research ...
I have used those cheap chinese brazed carbide boring bars before, and they are a pain. Always have to custom grind them. At work these days we mostly use nothing but insert tooling. Custom shapes, I still have to make my own brazed tooling. Totally a blast making your own tools however. Specially when they come out spot on!
Love the vids, and always remember to work safe!
I wish I had a diamond wheel at my current place. We just use green silicone carbide wheels on a bench grinder.
Ya, it's what they are designed for. As you use the wheel, grit comes off leaving a fresh unloaded surface. Unfortunately, you have to dress the wheel often when shaping a brazed tool. For just sharpening an edge or point, you won't have to touch it up much.
Waiting patiently for the last part of the video
The chinese (aka hobby, aka pseudo-lathes) lathes come with thread chucks and have grippers so it can be ran in reverse like you said. The 'grippers' are like two L shaped clamping pieces, 180 degrees apart axially, that screw into the spindle, and with the short line of the 'L' fit into a V groove on the chuck's back plate.
I watched all three videos and I think you did a good job making your tool, but I gotta tell ya in this first one I had flashbacks of that cutoff tool and the blade being cocked in the holder, I did that and thought it was ok but a few stitches later proved me wrong when the blade shattered plz be careful would like to see more from ya :)
lol congrats! first one? once my kid was a year old i lost all ability to ever get anything done. its crazy.
A couple of points: 1) Unless you are purchasing ground stock, the material *should* be oversized, to allow for finish machining. 2) That microphone cord is in the danger zone, you should not have loose clothing or wires hanging from you while using the lathe.
yes, because of relief. on the inside of a hole the chip has nowhere to go if you are below the centerline.
lol i think we are too young to ever really have known about threaded chucks!!! To me they are for wood working lathes and stuff sold at HFreight ;)
Oh yea I have a old 13 south bend,, with cam lock so sweet!!
good job
Hmmm...Hard drive camcorder looked like a Sony HDR-SR11 with a 60 GB hard drive. If the camera was shutting down, that may be due to vibrations. If the camera senses a significant amount of vibration, it'll shut down to prevent damage to the hard drive.
NYC CNC
One work around for the vibration induced shut down is use a memory card. That model uses a memory stick pro (Sony's proprietary format, of course) but you won't have to worry about premature shut downs. Might be worth the expense, might not. And if you want to get close to the subject, it has a macro setting. Real nice when you want to really get up close and personal with chips peeling off. You might also want to try manual focus, if you're not already doing so. It'll put and end that pesky tendency it has to either focus on the wrong subject or "breathe", i.e., hunt for the appropriate focus.
It was a boring bar, now its an exciting bar OUCH
I have been enjoying all of the videos. I am of course interested in the subject. I cannot comment or like your facebook page as I do not have a facebook page myself. Please film the whole job of making the swage dies for us fans. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
NYC CNC Would a live centre not work better?
I know a dead centre has less runout, but when working a hard to machine material like this, I'd use a live centre... I always do anyway, purely becauseit makes more sense to me, but I think that if a dead centre is better for you, then that's what you should do
Your part is getting hot because your heat transfer is insufficient from the birds nest being created from the chip breaker built into the insert not being able to do its job from the slow feed rate. hope this helps out some. We machine a lot of 17-4 and tool steel, and the best way to get rid of heat from the part is to make sure the chips grab the heat and break off.
looking at your drawing you are going to lose a lot of rigidity in that boring bar if you slice the majority of the minor diameter of it in half. I would remove just enough to form the cutting portion on the end of the bar.
Obviously the Camera wants you to pay as much attention to it as you are paying to the lathe... It's jealous! ;)
If its a thread on it could unscrew, this is how we were taught when I was in trade school , and no you you do not cut on the off side .
change your feeds and speeds and consider NOT using a dab of oil, you can get little chips that way. No noodles or birdsnests.
i think hes confused. too many keith fenner vids maybe? when the tool is upside down, you are on the back of the work standard rotation. but you can also be behind the work, tool right side up, reverse rotation.. this scenario can unscrew the chuck on anything smaller than L00 {which does have a threaded collar, but also a key and a taper} Basically. Guys with old south bends need to be careful when doing "modern" things because you can cause the chuck to go flying off!!!!
Hack!!!