Actually it looks quite clean to the eye because it is after the DPF filter. If it is all black and sooty then your exhaust stacks should be black and sooty. Then that is a problem. But before it got even close to that sooty there would be many faults and derates. Remember its job is to notify you that it sees soot particles. The calibration in the ecm has limits on how much soot that sensor is permitted to see over a period of time before the software will logs faults. The intake sensor should be called the soot magnet ;-)
I’m getting codes for what seems like a bad sensor, it looks like it’s in a tough spot to get to, is there anything I can check before replacing the sensor?
If you are talking about the particulate matter sensor it depends on what codes you are getting. If the codes are calling for it to regen you can do a manual particulate matter sensor regen. If you have heater faults or no communication and have power and ground to the sensor it is probably failed. I was told the only difference between particulate matter sensors is operating voltage. IE 12 volt machine or 24 volt machine and lead length. The sensor, pigtail, and module are a one piece sensor assembly so you get everthing and change everything. They just screw in and you bolt the module to its bracket and plug it in.
Thank you .
If it is as dirty as a manifold pressure sensor is usually, is that enough to case a problem?
Actually it looks quite clean to the eye because it is after the DPF filter. If it is all black and sooty then your exhaust stacks should be black and sooty. Then that is a problem. But before it got even close to that sooty there would be many faults and derates. Remember its job is to notify you that it sees soot particles. The calibration in the ecm has limits on how much soot that sensor is permitted to see over a period of time before the software will logs faults. The intake sensor should be called the soot magnet ;-)
I’m getting codes for what seems like a bad sensor, it looks like it’s in a tough spot to get to, is there anything I can check before replacing the sensor?
If you are talking about the particulate matter sensor it depends on what codes you are getting. If the codes are calling for it to regen you can do a manual particulate matter sensor regen. If you have heater faults or no communication and have power and ground to the sensor it is probably failed. I was told the only difference between particulate matter sensors is operating voltage. IE 12 volt machine or 24 volt machine and lead length. The sensor, pigtail, and module are a one piece sensor assembly so you get everthing and change everything. They just screw in and you bolt the module to its bracket and plug it in.