Good information and enjoyed the video. I really like the step by step removal and installation. I think you would benefit a lot from a second angle on a tripod just so you could cut away when the camera moves too much. A lot of movement made me a little dizzy but not a huge deal. Thank you for the content wish I had the patience to do what you do
Of course! And thankyou for the advice! I could tell while editing that the camera did go sideways and move around quite a bit sorry for that. I definitely need a tri pod or something too hahaha. The fan shroud tri pod wasn’t exactly reasonable. 😂
@@marcosmata4625 thanks i appreciate that a lot! I hope one day maybe some more people will watch me just cause I like to try and make videos as often an I can. It’s pretty cool being able to talk to someone in the comments!
If you feel your alternator is not charging the battery the first thing to do is turn on the ignition without turning the motor and check that the charging light is coming on. If the ignition light comes on the globe is okay. If the globe does not come on there is a high chance the globe has blown and this in turn prevents the alternator from working. Check other sites for alternator faults this often comes up. On my Volvo 245 the globe is in the socket, across the globe (parallel) I have soldered a 5 watt 250 ohm resistor. If the globe blows the alternator still works. Do not use an LED it does not allow for the higher current required. For the sake of being stranded with a flat battery, follow my tip.
try to short the exciter wire ( the small red one ) to the frame, the pilot light should go on, if not, your witing harness is in trouble. On these Bish alternators, if the exciter wire is not plugged, your alternator should kick in at about 2500 engine RPM and after it should charge normally. If the harness is OK, check the continuity of the rotor winding, if OK, replace the regulator and have the slip rings resurfaced. To what I see, the most frequent failure is the stator winding that shorts to its frame good luck.
What I think has happened is that your FUSE blew for the charging system. Check that it may have got grounded or there was a short. However? ..... Skip the Bosch. Get the small denso and call it a day. But I see you got an Audio system. Any Big case GM alt with an external regulator will do the trick AFTER you relocate your oil pressure sensor. Basically a 45' (npt thread?) Just match it at the hardware store. Some braided line or high pressure rubber hose that can handle about 10 Bar, and the appropriate fitting on the other side. Use thread locker on it so it won't leak or get lose. GO to the junkyard and get the Denso alt there for $25 Bucks on deal days. Or any of the GM units. The Denso is Dead easy to modify for external regulation. That way you get that sweet 14.9 Volt charge so your Amps got PLENTY of Juice for the Bass notes. When it gets hot? Its going to drop to 14 Volts anyways. I Really would take it all apart and see if there are any other issues inside you should look at. But from my experience? I think the newer Denso's have the 6 windings so they make better power with a Hairpin design. So they cool better, and make more power. That old unit I think has seen better days. Just return the parts you got new, and get yourself a newer alt. You will thank yourself. Also? a 2 groove V belt Overdrive pulley is at napa for about 13 bucks. Use that and you also should not have a problem clearing the mounting bolts with the belt. the additional benefit with the big case GM alternator is that basically it's everywhere. And you can get them anywhere from $50 on up. I grab one from one of their trucks because most of the time those alternators dang near last the life of the vehicle since they barely have any load put on them.
Your year of Volvo,the wire( thin one often disintegrates and hence,the alternator will not charge( they usually disintegrate about a foot or two from the alternator,you have a bad wire,I used to buy cars from frustrated " DIY mechanics& found frays every time.
@@jacksonodonal7960when you say wiring harness, you mean wiring for the alternator? Or like, the cars wiring harness I’m having some similar issues and wouldn’t be upset if I just had to replace some wires.
Good information and enjoyed the video. I really like the step by step removal and installation. I think you would benefit a lot from a second angle on a tripod just so you could cut away when the camera moves too much. A lot of movement made me a little dizzy but not a huge deal. Thank you for the content wish I had the patience to do what you do
Of course! And thankyou for the advice! I could tell while editing that the camera did go sideways and move around quite a bit sorry for that. I definitely need a tri pod or something too hahaha. The fan shroud tri pod wasn’t exactly reasonable. 😂
@@jacksonodonal7960 if just like to say your a great TH-camr and I know I’ll see you grow. Can’t wait to watch this channel blow up.
@@marcosmata4625 thanks i appreciate that a lot! I hope one day maybe some more people will watch me just cause I like to try and make videos as often an I can. It’s pretty cool being able to talk to someone in the comments!
If you feel your alternator is not charging the battery the first thing to do is turn on the ignition without turning the motor and check that the charging light is coming on. If the ignition light comes on the globe is okay. If the globe does not come on there is a high chance the globe has blown and this in turn prevents the alternator from working. Check other sites for alternator faults this often comes up. On my Volvo 245 the globe is in the socket, across the globe (parallel) I have soldered a 5 watt 250 ohm resistor. If the globe blows the alternator still works. Do not use an LED it does not allow for the higher current required. For the sake of being stranded with a flat battery, follow my tip.
try to short the exciter wire ( the small red one ) to the frame, the pilot light should go on, if not, your witing harness is in trouble.
On these Bish alternators, if the exciter wire is not plugged, your alternator should kick in at about 2500 engine RPM and after it should charge normally.
If the harness is OK, check the continuity of the rotor winding, if OK, replace the regulator and have the slip rings resurfaced.
To what I see, the most frequent failure is the stator winding that shorts to its frame
good luck.
What I think has happened is that your FUSE blew for the charging system. Check that it may have got grounded or there was a short. However? .....
Skip the Bosch. Get the small denso and call it a day. But I see you got an Audio system. Any Big case GM alt with an external regulator will do the trick AFTER you relocate your oil pressure sensor. Basically a 45' (npt thread?) Just match it at the hardware store. Some braided line or high pressure rubber hose that can handle about 10 Bar, and the appropriate fitting on the other side. Use thread locker on it so it won't leak or get lose.
GO to the junkyard and get the Denso alt there for $25 Bucks on deal days. Or any of the GM units. The Denso is Dead easy to modify for external regulation. That way you get that sweet 14.9 Volt charge so your Amps got PLENTY of Juice for the Bass notes. When it gets hot? Its going to drop to 14 Volts anyways.
I Really would take it all apart and see if there are any other issues inside you should look at. But from my experience? I think the newer Denso's have the 6 windings so they make better power with a Hairpin design. So they cool better, and make more power.
That old unit I think has seen better days. Just return the parts you got new, and get yourself a newer alt. You will thank yourself.
Also? a 2 groove V belt Overdrive pulley is at napa for about 13 bucks. Use that and you also should not have a problem clearing the mounting bolts with the belt.
the additional benefit with the big case GM alternator is that basically it's everywhere. And you can get them anywhere from $50 on up. I grab one from one of their trucks because most of the time those alternators dang near last the life of the vehicle since they barely have any load put on them.
Ended up being some bad wiring in the harness. I got it fixed at a shop that fixes old Volvos. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
Your year of Volvo,the wire( thin one often disintegrates and hence,the alternator will not charge( they usually disintegrate about a foot or two from the alternator,you have a bad wire,I used to buy cars from frustrated " DIY mechanics& found frays every time.
How do you tension the alternator belt? there is no tensioner? is it only with screw and nut?
Yes. Just pull back the alternator until the belt is fairly tight but still wiggles a little bit and tighten up the bolt and nut at the same time.
Did you ever find out what it was?
Yes it was just the wiring harness was bad and I just had new wires run to the alternator and that fixed it
You need a rebuilt alternator from a auto electric rebuild shop. I was quoted 120$ ,that's a fair price.
@@jacksonodonal7960when you say wiring harness, you mean wiring for the alternator?
Or like, the cars wiring harness
I’m having some similar issues and wouldn’t be upset if I just had to replace some wires.