Bleeding fuel line on a Yanmar 3GM30F marine diesel

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ย. 2020
  • I go through and explain how I bled the fuel line on my engine, a 1986 Yanmar 3GM30F diesel. This winter I had started to drain the Racor to replace the fuel filters and then changed my mind and decided to do it in spring. I forgot to close the Racor top vent and so when I went to start it, all that air went straight through the fuel lines. It ran for about 5-7 minutes and then died. So, I had to bleed it all out. Thankfully, I was able to get it running without having to crack the fuel injectors.
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ความคิดเห็น • 23

  • @raganriley
    @raganriley 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    The finger pump on the LP pump took me about 15 seconds when I primed from the primary to secondary filter. You need to push past the free play on the finger pump before it starts moving fluid. I have seen a few videos that gets this wrong. That being said, good trick you posted.

  • @cristytaylor3017
    @cristytaylor3017 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This was very helpful, particularly the part about bleeding the screw over by the fuel injector, (lots of air still came, as you said) and for us (dad was helping ...as in my boat, but didn't know how) it still wasn't catching until opening up one of the 3 chambers....on 2 cylinders it caught, he closed the 3rd, and finally a few hours spent trying to bleed it out, finally got it! Thanks for sharing....we'd worked hard and done the first parts, but the last had been missing and wasn't at all in the manual. So 👍 thanks!

    • @rtanders1981
      @rtanders1981  11 หลายเดือนก่อน

      That's awesome, I'm so glad you found it helpful!

  • @sailingsencilla1119
    @sailingsencilla1119 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    My dude. Today my engine didn't' start. First thing in the Op manual is bleed the engine (after having diesel in the tank). I had no idea how to do that. Watched a few videos didn't really give me clear view of what I should do and the manual is a little difficult to follow. I watched this video (I have the same engine) and took me like 25 minutes and had my engine going. Thanks boss you the man.

    • @rtanders1981
      @rtanders1981  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hey that’s awesome man! I just saw this comment. I also had a bit of a time searching for videos on this. I actually ended up taking advice from a few different videos and combining them into what I did here. Glad it worked for you!

  • @bartncharity
    @bartncharity 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This video is awesome!! Thanks for being so thorough. I’m gunna bleed my lines today.

  • @stucraig7462
    @stucraig7462 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great video. I will try the pump from the main water seperater. One thing, if you open the cmmpression arms, only crank engine over for 8 to 10 seconds and give it a couple minutes rest between next attempt.

  • @milt9223
    @milt9223 2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Helpful thanks

    • @rtanders1981
      @rtanders1981  2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Glad it was helpful!

  • @SwitcherTrain
    @SwitcherTrain 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Awesome video man

    • @rtanders1981
      @rtanders1981  6 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Thank you! Glad you found it useful!

  • @DAVEEMAN1
    @DAVEEMAN1 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I am a first timer. Thank you that helped.

    • @rtanders1981
      @rtanders1981  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Nice! Yeah, that was my first time too!

  • @tobagotom
    @tobagotom 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Thanks for the great video

    • @rtanders1981
      @rtanders1981  11 หลายเดือนก่อน

      You're welcome! I'm glad folks are getting some use out of it. Took me a while to figure all that out!

  • @richardarmentrout5303
    @richardarmentrout5303 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    The lift pump runs on a cam. If it is on the cam lobe you won’t get a full pump stroke with that lever.

  • @EricJohnson-pu9fg
    @EricJohnson-pu9fg 12 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

    Very informative video but a CRITICAL WORD OF CAUTION!!! If you open the (de) compression levers to turn the engine over in order to bleed your fuel system (or even just crank it for a extended period with them shut to bleed the system) BE SURE TO FIRST CLOSE THE ENGINE SALT WATER INTAKE THRU HULL VALVE. If you don't you run the very real risk of back flushing water from your exhaust system into your engine cylinders and filling them with sea water. This will cause a hydro lock and lock up your engine. And unless you IMMEDIATELY remove the injectors, turn the engine over by hand to force the sea water out, then dump oil down the injector hole, your engine is TOAST! Sea water in your cylinders for more than a very short times will seize the engine. And depending on how many times you tried to crank on it when it was hydro locked, it may be toast even if you do get oil in the cylinders anyway. I SPEAK FROM EXPERIENCE...

    • @rtanders1981
      @rtanders1981  9 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@EricJohnson-pu9fg thanks for adding that insight. Very informative! Not something I had thought about or was aware of.

  • @milt9223
    @milt9223 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Less click click click with wrench 😮

  • @thespicablethinker7950
    @thespicablethinker7950 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Ryan. I have to replace the lone right after the lift pump.
    I got the parts and everything. Any tips?

    • @rtanders1981
      @rtanders1981  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes, make sure you close the fuel switch. The negative pressure will keep the fuel from just flowing out unchecked when you open the line. Mine is on my tank. Others are on the line inside the aft cabin or elsewhere along that path. This will help limit the air that gets into the line also. Put a bowl under the line when you take it off to catch the fuel. Should be pretty straightforward. Just crack the nut on the secondary fuel filter when you are done and pump the primary and you should be good. Let me know how it goes.

    • @rtanders1981
      @rtanders1981  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Also, follow Spelunkerd on YT. The man is a Yanmar Wizard.

  • @s.v.gadder1443
    @s.v.gadder1443 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    You didn't press the lift pulp handle down enough .... j.s.