Step measurment and China Export was new for me. Thank you very much.
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That's an urban myth. CE is self certified anyway, and the wrong spacing is just a result of Chinese exporters not even giving a crap about putting the logo on correctly.
I few months ago I asked a guy at a bearing supplier why they had Vernier calipers on the counters; the answer was "The Boss wouldn't pay for the batteries, dial-calipers were a bit fragile, and anyway, they kept disappearing out the door! The sort of 'Scrote' who nicks digital calipers doesn't know how to read a Vernier, so he leaves these ones alone!" She's a great world we live in!
@@sunriseboy4837 : You can't beat quality! I admit I have three cheap Chinese calipers, scattered around the house and workshop, and never had a failure. I buy batteries from a cheap, reliable On-Line supplier, and keep a spare in the case. They are absolutely fine for times when absolute precision is not needed... if I am machining something for a sliding or press fit, I am quite happy to use them until I get close, and then swap to a micrometer. Ageing eyes makes the readout welcome, while the micrometer's Vernier requires serious squinting! BTW: I have a good quality digital caliper, bought when they first appeared. It cost about twenty times as much as the Chinese "throwaways", is not a great deal more accurate, and has much smaller numbers. What I hate about it is that if it times out, it does not retain its settings... you have to zero it each time, which can be a disaster! I doubt if I will ever use it again!
I'm a retired machinist, instructor and process engineer. I found your information to be very sound. the only thing I will add is to be very, very careful when relying on the depth rod as it's easy for inaccuracy to creep in. The other thing I'll note is that my Verniers are more difficult to use than they were 50 years ago when I was 20 (all you older guys are chuckling over that, I'm sure). On the plus side. I dropped my verniers in the bottom of a screw machine- a very dirty environment. They made a soft landing in the carpet of chips. I fished them out, dunked them in mineral spirits, wiped them off and they were none the worse. My boss did the same thing with his dials. They were toast.
Inaccuracies creep in with age and wear... it's just that in our case the age and wear is not necessarily the caliper! I 100 percent get where you are coming from! 😜
Also, with the dial calipers, you can get dirt etc in the rack and it will put them out of zero without you realising. The dial needle won't read zero when the caliper is closed. I prefer a vernier caliper with fine adjustment.
@@thomasdecker7631 we chuckle because we can relate! I had a magnifying glass in my toolbox. When I was in an area of the shop with poor lighting, you need the extra help!
@@Funco1979 That's why long ago I got in the habit (a habit I always shared with students) of checking zero before taking measurements and again when I was done to make sure that hadn't happened during use.
Another trick I use when using a digital caliper when facing many parts to length in a lathe or mill (or any measurement for that matter) is to set the caliper to the desired length and ZERO the readout there. When you measure any parts, it will take the guesswork out of how much needs to be removed to get the parts to final size.
or to determine the hole spacing of two identical holes: measure the hole, set to 0, measure the hole outside/outside with the inside measuring jaw and you have hole center/center
Good old fashioned engineering will never be bettered by a computer as engineering creates the computer. Why do we teach young children (not kids) to rely on a battery tool - the Victorians had no batteries, Vernier Callipers, Slide Rules if the computer is broken the older generation will use old fashioned tools like a multimeter to effect a repair. Above all your times tables are sacrosanct if you can - play darts and use mental arithmetic for the answer if you know maths the rest is easier, no maths then you are up a creek without a paddle. Never, never throw the baby out with the bathwater. This earns do not forget where you have come from.
Yes. Now I've got to go look my tools over to see if I've got any China Exports. It never ceases to amaze me how those with less quality try to pass themselves off with deceptive markings.
When I started in engineering I “could” read the vernier callipers tenth by naked eye, when I retired I “could not” read a digital vernier without glasses. 😂😂😂😂😂
When I started work, I was taught to interpolate the 1/64" graduations on a rule to thirds of 1/64", which is pretty near measuring to 0.005". I was pretty sceptical at first, then after a while, found it really worked. (with relatively young eyes) I expect others reading will be sceptical, too... In engineering, there are a lot of oddball personalities. Advice to the youth. Watch the older guys, maybe especially the quirky ones, see who produces most with least sweat... They've got the trade sorted. They're the ones with useful tricks to teach... If they like you... They're the ones who have all the oddball bits of kit whose purpose isn't immediately obvious... Until you see it in use... Often they gauge, rather than measure, for speed. With some oddball piece of kit...
Not only. Some calipers are simply hard to read. Grey writing on slightly different grey steel. Workbenches may be well illuminated - but calipers are often used elsewhere where lighting is not optimal. The digital ones have a clear advantage there. If they have a display with a reasonable contrast. Many have dirt cheap displays with low contrast. And if you have to use a digital one at below freezing temperatures - good luck. Some LCD displays simply become super slow or entirely unusable at low temperatures. If the measurement electronics are still working accurately enough, that is. And mine drains button cells quickly even when not in use. So there are good reasons to keep a vernier one around.
@@ralfbaechle Notice however, that calipers are "measure and take" instruments. Simply close them on the measured part, take them off, and read in better lighted place.
I'm 75 and have used vernier calipers and digital calipers for many decades, yet you were able to teach me a few things. Good job! Thanks for taking the time and effort to post this excellent video.
Yeah, I've been using all types of calipers every day in my occupation for over 20 years and I still learned several things in this video that I never knew!
I'm 82, and overnight I (in my dreams) decided to do bore measurements to determine the correct size of a bore for a minnie ball. Yep, you guessed it. Received a Euroarms M1853 Enfield. Hot dog. Fortunately I have in this room a mechanical dial caliper and three Verniers (1 being micro). I also have four slide rules and...a magnifying glass.
65 year old engineer here. Lots of great information in this short video. I use a vernier caliper simply because it needs no battery! I was also taught to never touch the measuring surface without wiping it clean. Sweat is corrosive and can cause corrosion pitting although these days they are so cheap maybe this is not so important anymore. Thank you!
64 year old quality engineer here, today they are made of stainless steel, so don't worry about sweat, but it's good practice to keep them always clean so you can rely on your measurements 😊
I got a digital calliper a while ago. You know, step into the modern age and all that. But the battery dies on your when you need it the most, and the digital measurement is very flaky. I got fed up with it pretty quickly and got a good quality vernier calliper instead. Bombproof, accurate, and never runs out of batteries.
@@CristiNeagu you get what you pay for 😄 Buy Mitut.... and the battery will last years and is so accurate, tested with gauge blocks mostly 0 deviation or +- 1/100 mm..... you'll never need a replacement....
@@anthonywalsh6605 we mostly have Mitu.. in the factory, some Mauser...., so reliable in harsh conditions, I got lazy and replaced my 150mm at home with Mitu.. Digital, only the long guys are traditional as I use them rarely..
That's a superb explanation, I didn't know about step measurement. In our Polish workshop we have old “Made in USSR" calipers that we use daily, after all the years of use, they have surprisingly little amount of play. But for anything that requires proper precision, we use digital one. Also, a small bit of trivia: In Polish it's called "Suwmiarka", which roughly translates as "Glide scale".
As you mentioned about 'Play' good Mitutoyo Vernier caliper, made in Japan, have a thin plate on the sliding member which can be adjusted with two fine screws to compensate for any wear and tear. Also an additional sliding member is attached to the main reading piece with a Thimble and screw. This is for fine adjustment while measuring. Thanks.
I started using caliper on my RC car when setting up the steering, suspension and camber of the wheels. Ever since doing so the handling is out of this world. The RC car I race is in 1/12 scale and I can use real world set ups by scaling down. I also used them to construct a aniti roll bar for the suspension on the front and back of the chassis and this has given me a car that handles like a dream. Because it is front wheel drive i now get that lift off over steer just like the real thing.
38+ years machinist here, one thing I would add, when using the blade type calipers, use only the blades when possible. I have measured a plug gage with the blades, then on the heavier flats and gotten a .001" difference. I unserstand that sometimes it can't be helped. Also, search pictures of the Starrett vernier calipers, the only have the main jaws, and they aren't bblades, but nibs that are flat and parallel on the inside (for OD measurement), and radiused on the outside (for ID). There are seperate scales for ID and OD so you don't have to compensate. You didn't mention mechanical dial calipers, no battery and easy to read. Last year I had to replace my 20 year old Browne & Sharp 6" dial calipers when they decided to kiss the floor. I would have sent them for repair, but my company bought me brand new ones. Now owned by a Swiss company, Tesa, and still the same excellent quality. Some regular micrometers also have a vernier scale for measuring to .0001".
I have the 530-104 Mitutoyo calipers. Back when i started engineering school, my dad had an older pair of Mitutoyo's i could use. I loved them, and when *HE* lost them (unknowingly) and blamed me for it, i gifted him the 530-104. ... Then he found his old calipers at the bottom of his toolbox, and he hasn't stopped apologizing since. He gave me back those gifted calipers as an apology. (at my own literal expense :P) In school, everyone had digital calipers. Except for me. And i couldn't have been happier. Say what you will about digital. It works, it has its benefits... But it also replaces a lot of hardware it doesn't need to, and ends up inducing error or reliability problems that doesn't belong there. Analog will fail you when you break it. Digital will fail you when it breaks. The difference is small, but measurable. Well, _given the right tool of course. ;)_
4:45 - I have been using this type of caliper for many years and have known all but one of the features of the tool you've shown in this post. The one I just now learned from you is how to use the notch in the depth rod and it make perfect sense: for flat bottom holes, place the gap along the wall of the hole; for conical or pointed bottom holes, place the gap away from the wall of the hole. Thank you for providing detail on the usage of this versatile tool!
My father was a master machinist. His children were raised with micrometers and dial-indicator verniers, working on iron cast machines. There was no CNC. If you lost your zero working on a job, you were basically screwed. This was about 1972. Today, computer control makes these tasks quite a bit easier. My father taught me never to store the verniers completely closed, and never slam the verniers closed, as a sudden impact might affect the accuracy of the instrument. I still have a pair or two of the old dial-indicator verniers. They are still accurate, and I use them for my woodworking.
I've been in QC for 45 years and that's one of the first things I learned but it's even more important with 0-1" micrometers and never leave gage blocks wrung together. All it takes is the right amount of moisture and they fuse together. I have seen it happen more than once and even if you can get them apart the gauge surfaces are pretty much ruined for any true precision usage.
@@robertc8134 : Your father would have collapsed in shock if he had seen me trying to use a Vernier caliper as a wrench! I was pre-school aged. My father spotted me in time to avoid disaster, but I did get reminded for many years afterwards! 🥴
A machinist taught me to always check that the caliper reads zero when closed. If it does not read zero, then it is likely that there are tiny metal chips on the jaws. Also the zero on a dial caliper can be adjusted by loosening a set screw and turning the dial face slightly.
Note that resolution and precision is not the same thing. The digital caliper has a resolution of 0.01mm, but not necessarily that level of precision (check the datasheet). Also, a lot of measurements are tricky to perform by the operator. There's a thing called MSA (measurement system analysis), which is used to determine how reliably an operator can make a certain measurement
True, but often times resolution is more important. My primary use for calipers is that I zero them to some reference and then use it as a comparator relative to that reference. This renders the precision far less important than the resolution and repeatability.
There are also calipers with a dial, I have a Swiss-made Tesa accurate to 0.02 mm. Otherwise, the CE = China Export story is just an urban legend, there is even a section about this in the Wikipedia article on CE marking. In any case, the CE marking is only a sworn statement made by the manufacturer, not a certification mark.
@@blechtic Once again, this is not a certification mark, it is solely under the responsibility of the manufacturer. Also, they are calipers, there's no safety risk involved... Regulation (EC) No 765/2008, article 30: 1. The CE marking shall be affixed only by the manufacturer or his authorised representative. 3. By affixing or having affixed the CE marking, the manufacturer indicates that he takes responsibility for the conformity of the product with all applicable requirements set out in the relevant Community harmonisation legislation providing for its affixing.
Thanx for the review, and the reminders and the "new" info. My father was a Civil Engineer and he taught me to read the Vernier scale on his K&E Mountaineer Transit when I was about 14 years old. I still have the pocket magnifying glass he gave me to make it easier to read.
I was a metrologists for many years and find the video informative. The real test comes at the hands of an experienced machinist. Technique is everything!
Thank you! I have had a set of digital callipers for YEARS and didn't know about the depth or step measurement options! This is going to make my model making so much more accurate! :)
Working in Machining since the early 70's this is a great video. I have used Vernier Calipers that were 3 and 4 feet long. Still own 12 " ones. This all we had at one time.
Still rocking the dial Starret vernier caliper. Those and the Mitotoyu 0-1, 1-2 and 2-3" mics set are still going strong after 40 years. Buy good tools and take care of them and service when needed and they will last a lifetime.
In tradeschool they would only let us use vernier scale calipers and conventional micrometers. Nowadays I work in a high volume CNC machine shop, we only use digital everything. At home I use the midground between vernier and digital, dial calipers. Easier on the eyes than vernier and doesn't need batteries.
Thank you very much! As a student, I had a choice of Marching Band or Shop. I was in the Band and missed out on loads of vital skills. I have frequently found myself in my shop attempting to solve the puzzle of accurate measurement. This video is clear, concise, and extremely helpful in understanding the proper use of my calipers!
Pretty nice tutorial. I never used a Vernier Caliper much but I still have my Starrett dial calipers. 40 years and still working perfectly. If I had known how it operated i might have used one instead. simple durable and your battery won't die at the worst possible time.
That was the best explanation on calipers I have seen. I bought a digital calipers but always afraid to use it because of the lack of any knowledge. Now I have an idea I can now at least try out using mine to learn and rewatch your video to compare what I found and what I may not have correct. Brilliant job
I like my Mitutoyo digital calipers. The action feels smooth and the battery lasts a really long time in them compared to cheap chinese calipers. I really like dial calipers but I've had the rack and pinion mechanism fail due to debris ingress. There's nothing to go wrong on vernier calipers, as long as you can read them.
2:50 The advantage of digital calipes is that i can read the numbers without using glasses as thick as bottle bottoms. Becoming old is a hard business ^^
Excellent Instructional Video!!! Quick and to the point. My only criticism being the fact that some parts are quite vague offering minimal information, however, as a whole, this is a highly efficient and an excellent piece of work. Thank you for making it available to the community.
Not to mention that digital calipers are essentially automatic reading verniers that use varianle capacitors on the slider caused by alternative conductive and isolating strips on the ruler (under the label). Electronoob's video on digital calipers was really inspiring
I think this is the best video I've seen on using these tools properly. 🙂👍 I use the Vernier Calipers in Locksport and although I've used them reasonably right, but now I realise that I need to tweak how I use them. Like many others I thought the calipers that were non digital were nowhere near as accurate, thanks for clearing that up 🙂👍
5:28 dam. i learned something today. i have always used the depth end to measure steps. now i just need to keep that in mind when next time using calibers
1:10 I recently did a project where I made a large number of accurate measurements using calipers, both digital and vernier. In the end I switched to digital calipers because it reduced the mental labour required.
I use calipers daily and I'm a little amazed that we aren't introduced to them in school. I use everything from cheap plastic verniers (for times when damaging the caliper is a real possibility and high precision isn't critical) to our usual cast of characters. I usually grab dial calipers since it's relatively easy to read and doesn't take batteries. Next is vernier -- again, the battery thing. I usually only go digital if 1) I have batteries since it's probably gone dead since the last time I used it; 2) I have a lot of things to measure since reading the screen is so much easier. All are used and useful.
I was taught how to use a Vernier caliper (and Slide-rule) at school... admittedly that was more than sixty years ago. These days, that lesson has probably been replaced by "How to use an Electon Microscope"! 😜
@@PiefacePete46 lol. Know what you mean. I was the last slide rule practitioner at my school. I had to stop when they 1) requested more than 3-1/2 digits of precision; and 2) stopped allowing log and trig tables for test taking. Ti-30 to the rescue. Nowadays I just use the 'rule on my desk for funzies when I feel like going old school.
@@terpcj : We are talking about everday items from not too long ago that todays youngsters could puzzle over for hours! Not long after I left school I worked as an aircraft Load Controller. The balance of the aircraft was calculated with a rudimentary Circular Slide Rule... Today, Google would probably work it all out for me if I asked nicely! 😜 I still have a slide rule in the drawer behind me... I must check it out for a giggle.
CE was new to me. Great guide for a beginner! I'd also like to add, be careful not to apply too much force to the slide, as excessive pressure can cause the caliper jaws to misalign and result in inaccurate measurements. This is especially crucial when measuring from the thinner tip of the calipers. If additional force is needed, apply pressure on either side of the caliper jaws themselves causing direct compressive forces, rather than through the slide, as this will prevent misalignment between the body and the slide.
It's an urban myth that's hard to kill. It was all over the European tec community 15 years ago. It's been debunked a lot of times, even in the European Parliament. Links to debunk on the Wikipedia page en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_marking
I was in a technical school more than 40 years ago before the digital age caught on. We learned to read verniers and micrometres and how to set up and use shapers. The new thing for me is step measurement. Nowadays you are the man if you can program CNC.
WOWZA!!! Like others, I thought I knew how to both read and use a Caliper. I did not, until now! Most excellent! I am sending to many gearhead friends. Good job.
@@mikewatson4644 And almost all of you couldn't drive a Model T Ford because technology has surpassed the need to know how. No one needs a slide rule now except to measure their black and white RCA picture tube and find some weird level of superiority over those that couldn't care less.
@@booifojoe Can't agree with that. i am a retired pilot and we use(d) circular slide rules. We called them 'whiz wheels' and they are easy to carry, cheap, reliable, rugged and can do all kinds of calculations. Not sure i've seen a calculator for doing that but there may be. The vid was amazing as i had no idea about the finer points
@@booifojoe There are lots of slightly modified slide rules used for things today. For example, there is one that is used for calculating how much concrete is required for a slab. I was helping to pour a rather large slab recently (required 5 truck loads) and we were getting down to needing the last load. We measured the area that was left. 1 guy pulled out his cell phone and started to use the calculator. Another guy pulled out the modified slide rule and started to slide the dial around. I did it in my head and beat both of them. To be fair, I had a head start because I started to figure as soon as we started to measure.
I have owned a digital pair for about 15 years. I have barely used them because I don't often use the tool the battery dies and it seems foolish to buy a new battery just for the occassional measurement. So I recently invested in some non digital (difficult to obtain in the part of the world where I live until recently). Of course I had no idea they could be so accurate nor that they had so applications, not being a machinist, I use them in woodwork. Very interesting and informative video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
For years I used digital calipers for 3D Printing and CAD but it always struggled to geht designs to fit vor geht accurate prints. Two years ago I bought a analog one and instantly everything fits perfect first time. Comparing the analog with the digital it is a huge difference in accuarcy and consistency
Did you just have a cheap digital? There isn't a really good reason for digital to be more/less accurate (it actually just uses a conductive vernier scale on the back to measure)
Thanks for this info. The step measurement was also new to me. I also prefer the vernier calipers, as my digital one burns through the battery quickly.
China Export calipers are usually (electrically) very bad designed and use 1 battery per 3 months (if you are lucky). I invested in a Mitutoyo 10 years ago and never have had to replace the battery...
Hi James, just what I have been looking for as confirmation of how to use a set of calipers - absolutely brilliant, thank you so much! A friend told me how to use them, but I never quantified his advice, you have just done it!! An absolutely great, no nonsense video with clear and concise information and advice (esp the bit about Chinese made rubbish). Many thanks. Regards from the UK.
Calipers are a Must Have Precision Tool for Everyone. You didn't show a dial caliper, which are great for reading ease and no battery (I'm still using the Brown and Sharpes from 1983). The downside with dial calipers is that they are either metric or standard. I'm sorry but standard vernier calipers are too time consuming and difficult for new users. My favorite calipers are 8" Mitutoyo Digital, they are super smooth and accurate. The batteries last 1 to 3 years depending on use. Great video ;keep up the good work. I'm a retired tool and die maker from Honda.
Nice tutorial I purchased my first Vernier calliper in 1975 a 6 inch Japanese instrument it cost me £49 still using it today although I am long retired, a point of interest in 1975 my weekly take home pay was £7 so it was not exactly a cheap tool.
Worth watching even if you thought you knew all about calipers. The CE issue was the best explanation I've seen, and I now need to go and check all my stuff!
What an awesome channel! Crisp and detailed information precisely explained. That is pretty rare nowadays. Thanks for the great job and keep up the good work.
Before this video, I didn't know about the depth measurement possibility at all! I have a $10 AliExpress digital caliper for home use and it has always served me well. Thank you for a very informative video.
I didn't think I could learn something new from this video, but the step measuring was new to me. I just used the depth measure to measure steps. Great and informative video, keep up the good work
I’ve had a set of Mitutoyo calipers for about 25 years. They still have no play in the jaws and were used extensively during my time working as a mechanic on heavy machinery. I’ve been retired for 10 years but still use my vernier calipers all the time in my home workshop as well as a Mitutoyo 0-1 inch micrometer for really accurate measurements. I was brought up using inches but systems changed to metric in my younger days. I still like to measure fine measurements in thousands of an inch rather than using my metric mics.
It's an urban myth that's hard to kill. It was all over the European tec community 15 years ago. It's been debunked a lot of times, even in the European Parliament. Links to debunk on the Wikipedia page en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_marking
@@nilshagness8055 It's hard to kill because you always end up with some new person with an audience thinking its real. It is incredibly ironic that this is a growing problem in the information age where information is more readily available, but apparently so is misinformation.
⭐⭐⭐ How refreshing to hear a young person who actually understands the ins and outs of a caliper. It would be nice to see a follow up video on how to use gage R&R results to improve your metrology skills.
Great guide on how to use the very versatile calipers! Straight to the point with clear explanations. The step measurement was new to me. I've been using the depth guage, but it's sometimes hard to get it straight. And if there is a slight gap in the step, the very slim guage can slip under it.
For you model railroaders out there, Pacific Fast Mail once imported vernier calipers in both HO scale and O scale versions. Nice quality as they were made by Mitutoyo. Nice to read direct without having to make a number conversion. They are a bit collectible now and may cost a bit but turn up on eBay from time to time.
Most electronic versions even turn off . Still use a tiny bit of battery life. So if used infrequently. Pull out the battery. Ready to put back in the next time you need it. Nothing worse trying to use it , only to find the dead battery.
The whole China Export myth has been debunked already but it keeps popping up. The CE marking on products manufactured in China actually corresponds to the European CE marking required on some products but it looks different due to changes in dimensions and typography. There is no official CE logo specification. Also, the European CE marking only indicates (but is not proof!) that the manufacturer claims to have passed the required quality controls (which is always the responsibility of the manufacturer). This is often the case but not always. And the reason they put the CE logo on there is because the European Union demands that for a whole slew of products that manufacturers want to sell in Europe. Just search for it and they are easy to find.
"There is no official CE logo specification." Actually, there is a very specific set of criteria for its relative dimensions. And length over all can't be shorter than 5 mm. (in those cases it can be printed on the packaging and/or instruction manual, or other documentation if applicable.) It is literally part of the CE directive itself. However, the requirement that the two circles should overlap has been misunderstood by a few manufacturers that has ended up printing it incorrectly. One being Microsoft, having the compressed (and thereby incorrect) version on their wireless Xbox 360 controllers.
my tip as a professional: you can adjust the tension on the guide-rails. there are 2 holes at the top with tiny screws. adjust these carefully and test how much play there is. this also changes the angle of the caliper-arms and how the zero-point for inner and outer measurements behave in comparison. if adjusted properly, the zeropoint for inner and outer measurements are the same and evrything that should be 90 degree also is 90 degree. keep in mind, that there is some spring tension on the guiding rail! if you adjust it to tight, to a point where the spring is fully loaded, you will be damaging your guide-rails. the next useful thing to know: the electronic measurement-system is usually more accurate than what the display shows. if the display can show 0.01mm, the internal measurement is usually like 0.0025mm. if you press the zero button, you reset to exactly 0. if it shows 0.00mm and you press the zero button you will reset the internal measurement. it might have been 0.0025mm and you move the zero-point to exactly 0 moving it by less than 0.01mm. you can adjust the caliper more precisely than the 0.01mm it shows! always check the calipers against a part with an exact known value (like in the video). i usually check it with cylindrical testing pins. its much easier to keep them clean and the shape allows you to test a single spot on your measuring-arms. the squared testing-parts can be hard to handle correctly and need to be really really clean. a small defect on the surface of the caliper or the testing part ruins your precision. round testing pieces are a lot more forgiving to defects and dust! use those! if you treat your calipers good and adjust them well, you can reliably measure within +-0.01mm. usually these are meant to be used to measure nothing more pecise than +-0.05mm and at a professional level you should use better tools for anything that needs more precision than that. but its still nice to have your calipers working way better than the +-0.05mm. sry for my bad english. im not a native speaker.
I got an education on how to use calibres. I just use them for my guitars' nut measures & model railroading coupler mounting. Never knew you can use for so much more, Thank you.
Suggestion for the presenter: If you're pointing at very fine lines (such as what is inscribed on a caliper) avoid using your finger (which is a couple of orders of magnitude thicker than the lines). Instead, using something of similar fineness, such as a sharp pencil or the tip of a pen. Thanks.
Master optician, LLNL. Great video, very informative. My only caveat is that when performing micron-level measurements, heat from your hand will affect the caliper, gradually reducing accuracy. Allow the caliper/micrometer, etc. to acclimate to room temperature between readings.
I remember... I seem to recall they had "Switzerland" as well, for "Made in Switzerland" watches. They also added one jewel, so watches could have "Jewelled Movement" printed on the face. The solution to that was that watch faces had to say how many jewels were in the movement... The answer to that rule was watches with "0 Jewels" on the face! Of course it was only a matter of time before Japan moved on from this nonsense, and started producing some stunning high-class products. "Made in Japan" no longer had a stigma attached to it... I guess China will follow this path very quickly.
@@PiefacePete46 What I've learned is that the "NO (0) JEWELS INSIDE" was put there on watches with non-jeweled movements to avoid the higher import duties for jeweled movements put in place to make customers choose domestic watchmakers.
@@ZacabebOTG : That makes sense. My version came from my father... it could easily have been his own interpretation, or a story being spread at the time. "Misinformation" is not as new as we think! 😉
@@PiefacePete46I don’t think Chinese companies need to really care about the quality of their products. They have much less competition than Japan did and operate primarily in environments that reward deception, like Amazon’s marketplace.
I was a mechanical inspector for 30 years and I had one of these in my hand every day. My generation used the dial caliper, and I like that better because you can see changes on the analog dial. Vernier calipers were old-school but we knew they were more accurate. (NOT more precise! Don't mistake accuracy with precision. They both measure to 0.001". BTW, the Vernier Scale was invented by Pierre Vernier in 1631! It's a really clever invention if you think about it.
I use a dial indicator caliper and I love that tool. The cheap digital ones don't have proper power management when turned off, so your battery will not last long. Even the proper CE label only means that the manufacturer claims that it conforms to the standards given, but no one ever checks it, so you need to trust every Chinese backyard shop not to lie about it. IMHO, it's completely useless.
I'm a retired electrician who had to learn how to use micrometer to measure wire. We had to learn the diameter think it was from 15 to 10 guage because wire diameter doubles or halves evety 6 wire sizes. ( Never came across 11,13 or 15 gauge wire but some motors might use them ). Have a set of Vernier calipers and find them hard to use. Will measure something with them then get one of my Starrett 6" rulrd out to measure Verner.
Yeah but the accuracy comes down to users eyesight. Let's say digital is more accurate in that the number displayed is the number you use, where as with verniers you could be out because you couldn't quite see a distinction between which line was closer.
As a machinist, my favorite way to use calipers...is to get a micrometer 😛 jokes aside, very informative and handy video to show to anyone who is learning to measure with hand tools. We had an operator who had been on a mill for almost year, and he didn't know that you could measure things other than just using the inside of the blades. Not his fault though, as he was not properly shown how to use them. I've made the extra effort since to ensure any new hires, or those who have moved up from deburr, understand the power of these tools. Also wild fact about the Conformity! Definitely glad I still decided to watch a video on a tool I look at 5 days a week, as I learned something new.
What amuses me is the price range of calipers. A 12-inch caliper can run anywhere from under $20 to over $1,000. While the $1,000 caliper is extremely accurate and precise, the $20 caliper is still good to 0.001" and suffices for most applications. To be told, I do have a number of high dollar, high accuracy and precision instruments, but they are not used every day and are primarily used for inspection. Needless to say, no one touches them but me. Did you know that if you are trying to do high precision work, how you hold your measuring instruments can affect their accuracy.
Yes and a 1 or 2 degree temp change from inside machine check to outside on table changes size and reading and calipers good to .005 or more anything smaller needs mics. Have indicators and mics down to .00001
very handy, I did not know about the step measurement. I'd been measuring things using the very tip mostly- I'll be using the base now, I'm surprised I didn't reason that out on my own. That CE detail will come in handy for all sorts of stuff too. Great vid!
2:07 Holy crap! This is high-value info here. I don't pull out the calipers often, and when I do it's a digital caliper but after this video that my change. Digital calipers are frustrating and finicky at times, at least mine are, but I've put up with them due to my belief their accuracy and general ease of use outweighed their flaws. What I learned from this video in just the first 2.5 minutes has changed my mind. And made me hate button batteries even more!
Also take a look at dial calipers, they're my favorite type of calipers, but a bit harder to find. They're faster to read than Vernier calipers, but still no batteries.
When I worked as for QA as an engineer, we would use our cheaper calipers (the ones that weren't Mitutoyo) to also score lines on our metal blocks to indicate measurements. The calipers are, as far as I know, all made out of hardened stainless steel so it was easy to use as a scribe
Using vernier calipers is the only time I actually appreciate being near-sighted. Once those glasses come off, my eyes have magnification built in... ^.^
I like the Dial calipers . But I have a few of the 4” vernier calipers they are accurate to 0.001 inch . That I use while turning on a manual lathe. This is a great video to show people how to use and how to read them. 👍👍👍
Hey man, having learnt micromechanics in switzerland, you are acurrate in every way wich is nice to see for once, and you even confirmed a few things that i was pretty sure about but that i know anyone else could have known about. Great video, i hope you keep going in educational material like that. Best of luck to you !
I dropped and bent my Vernier callipers so I thought I'd splash out on a pair of digitals , I now wish I'd bought another pair of Verniers , the battery doesn't run out when you need it most . I will be buying a Vernier and a dial calliper next .
Fun Fact! The "China export" symbol doesn't actually exist. It's just that some manufacturers (mostly the cheap one, who happen to be concentrated in China) don't use the symbol as specified in the regulations, only something that looks like it. That doesn't mean that the product doesn't otherwise conform to European standards, but it's a good indication that a manufacturer isn't all that attentive to regulatory details.
Fun fact the symbol exists in so much as there are so many Chinese manufacturers using it to imply something it's not. Has nothing to do with attention to regulatory detail, it's entirely there to deceive. Have been experiencing this logo being used in electronics, radio and other tech areas. It's very common on counterfeit circuit boards and component supplies and has been for ~20 years.
@@dennis8196 China export is a 15 year old myth. It's been debunked a lot of times, even in the European Parliament. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_marking
@@dennis8196 Printed circuit boards do not need to bear the CE mark. Since PCBs are a component and therefor only part of a larger product and is thereby except. (Not I am oversimplifying greatly here, since it depends on a lot of factors.) But secondly. The biggest producer of the compressed (and thereby incorrect) version of the CE mark is Microsoft, on their wireless Xbox 360 controllers. Not a particularly cheap product, and not made by a particularly small company. It is however a simple mistake to make when label design doesn't get checked by the legal team.
@@todayonthebench I didn't say it was a requirement. It was used to imply fraudulent country of origin. Furthermore PCB's are the end product in many cases where my comment refers.
@@dennis8196 Yes, you didn't. My comment were simply to clarify that it often isn't on PCBs. But the second part of the comment is about the fact that a lot of the compressed CE marks stems not from a desire to deceive, but rather from misunderstanding the regulation stipulating the design of the mark itself.
A trick I picked up when I first started using vernier calipers is that if it's hard to identify the best fit, find the last mark that's clearly on the left, then find the first mark that's clearly on the right. Usually those will be 2 marks apart and the correct one will be the one in the middle. Or, you can just average those to amounts and call it good enough. Often times it won't be absolutely 100% in alignment.
There was a joke from half a century ago that claimed that (Japan) (China) had named a city "Usa" so they could honestly say it was "Made in USA". Now they're doing it. Sigh.
Step measurment and China Export was new for me. Thank you very much.
That's an urban myth. CE is self certified anyway, and the wrong spacing is just a result of Chinese exporters not even giving a crap about putting the logo on correctly.
Bottom line is that someone purposely copied CE to be deceptive.
@@hansangbat least they spelled it right!
There is no 'correct', that's the problem. The only size/spacing requirements are that it has to be at least 5mm high.
@@hansangb no deception. Literally anyone can put the CE mark on, if it meets the certification requirements, you don't need to 'get certified'.
I few months ago I asked a guy at a bearing supplier why they had Vernier calipers on the counters; the answer was "The Boss wouldn't pay for the batteries, dial-calipers were a bit fragile, and anyway, they kept disappearing out the door! The sort of 'Scrote' who nicks digital calipers doesn't know how to read a Vernier, so he leaves these ones alone!"
She's a great world we live in!
Kinda like "3 on the tree" or "4 on the floor" and that 3rd pedal deter vehicle theft.
@@lurch6404
Yeah that 3rd pedal might also impel vehicle theft though. 😂😂👀😉🤫🤫🤫
@@lurch6404 Millennial anti-theft devices!
Yeah, after watching, I'm about to order/buy Verniers. I'm tired of this Chinese knock off digital crapola we've been duped into buying.
@@sunriseboy4837 : You can't beat quality! I admit I have three cheap Chinese calipers, scattered around the house and workshop, and never had a failure. I buy batteries from a cheap, reliable On-Line supplier, and keep a spare in the case. They are absolutely fine for times when absolute precision is not needed... if I am machining something for a sliding or press fit, I am quite happy to use them until I get close, and then swap to a micrometer. Ageing eyes makes the readout welcome, while the micrometer's Vernier requires serious squinting!
BTW: I have a good quality digital caliper, bought when they first appeared. It cost about twenty times as much as the Chinese "throwaways", is not a great deal more accurate, and has much smaller numbers. What I hate about it is that if it times out, it does not retain its settings... you have to zero it each time, which can be a disaster!
I doubt if I will ever use it again!
I'm a retired machinist, instructor and process engineer. I found your information to be very sound. the only thing I will add is to be very, very careful when relying on the depth rod as it's easy for inaccuracy to creep in. The other thing I'll note is that my Verniers are more difficult to use than they were 50 years ago when I was 20 (all you older guys are chuckling over that, I'm sure). On the plus side. I dropped my verniers in the bottom of a screw machine- a very dirty environment. They made a soft landing in the carpet of chips. I fished them out, dunked them in mineral spirits, wiped them off and they were none the worse. My boss did the same thing with his dials. They were toast.
Inaccuracies creep in with age and wear... it's just that in our case the age and wear is not necessarily the caliper! I 100 percent get where you are coming from! 😜
Also, with the dial calipers, you can get dirt etc in the rack and it will put them out of zero without you realising. The dial needle won't read zero when the caliper is closed.
I prefer a vernier caliper with fine adjustment.
@@thomasdecker7631 we chuckle because we can relate!
I had a magnifying glass in my toolbox. When I was in an area of the shop with poor lighting, you need the extra help!
@@Funco1979 That's why long ago I got in the habit (a habit I always shared with students) of checking zero before taking measurements and again when I was done to make sure that hadn't happened during use.
@@PiefacePete46 Might want to check out the Bates Method for eyesight. It works.
Another trick I use when using a digital caliper when facing many parts to length in a lathe or mill (or any measurement for that matter) is to set the caliper to the desired length and ZERO the readout there. When you measure any parts, it will take the guesswork out of how much needs to be removed to get the parts to final size.
or to determine the hole spacing of two identical holes: measure the hole, set to 0, measure the hole outside/outside with the inside measuring jaw and you have hole center/center
Good old fashioned engineering will never be bettered by a computer as engineering creates the computer. Why do we teach young children (not kids) to rely on a battery tool - the Victorians had no batteries, Vernier Callipers, Slide Rules if the computer is broken the older generation will use old fashioned tools like a multimeter to effect a repair. Above all your times tables are sacrosanct if you can - play darts and use mental arithmetic for the answer if you know maths the rest is easier, no maths then you are up a creek without a paddle. Never, never throw the baby out with the bathwater. This earns do not forget where you have come from.
😎👍
Yes. Now I've got to go look my tools over to see if I've got any China Exports. It never ceases to amaze me how those with less quality try to pass themselves off with deceptive markings.
My fav part of this trick is when I take off too much material and end up scrapping the part.
When I started in engineering I “could” read the vernier callipers tenth by naked eye, when I retired I “could not” read a digital vernier without glasses. 😂😂😂😂😂
This happens to everybody, the calipers must be really bad for the eyes! :)
Same problem here.
When I started work, I was taught to interpolate the 1/64" graduations on a rule to thirds of 1/64", which is pretty near measuring to 0.005". I was pretty sceptical at first, then after a while, found it really worked. (with relatively young eyes) I expect others reading will be sceptical, too... In engineering, there are a lot of oddball personalities. Advice to the youth. Watch the older guys, maybe especially the quirky ones, see who produces most with least sweat... They've got the trade sorted. They're the ones with useful tricks to teach... If they like you... They're the ones who have all the oddball bits of kit whose purpose isn't immediately obvious... Until you see it in use...
Often they gauge, rather than measure, for speed. With some oddball piece of kit...
Not only. Some calipers are simply hard to read. Grey writing on slightly different grey steel.
Workbenches may be well illuminated - but calipers are often used elsewhere where lighting is not optimal. The digital ones have a clear advantage there. If they have a display with a reasonable contrast. Many have dirt cheap displays with low contrast. And if you have to use a digital one at below freezing temperatures - good luck. Some LCD displays simply become super slow or entirely unusable at low temperatures. If the measurement electronics are still working accurately enough, that is. And mine drains button cells quickly even when not in use. So there are good reasons to keep a vernier one around.
@@ralfbaechle Notice however, that calipers are "measure and take" instruments. Simply close them on the measured part, take them off, and read in better lighted place.
I'm 75 and have used vernier calipers and digital calipers for many decades, yet you were able to teach me a few things. Good job! Thanks for taking the time and effort to post this excellent video.
Yeah, I've been using all types of calipers every day in my occupation for over 20 years and I still learned several things in this video that I never knew!
I'm 82, and overnight I (in my dreams) decided to do bore measurements to determine the correct size of a bore for a minnie ball. Yep, you guessed it. Received a Euroarms M1853 Enfield. Hot dog. Fortunately I have in this room a mechanical dial caliper and three Verniers (1 being micro). I also have four slide rules and...a magnifying glass.
@@Shift2Moviesme too
@@hubertrobinson8825 Yeah, right?!
65 year old engineer here. Lots of great information in this short video. I use a vernier caliper simply because it needs no battery! I was also taught to never touch the measuring surface without wiping it clean. Sweat is corrosive and can cause corrosion pitting although these days they are so cheap maybe this is not so important anymore. Thank you!
64 year old quality engineer here, today they are made of stainless steel, so don't worry about sweat, but it's good practice to keep them always clean so you can rely on your measurements 😊
@@mobilfone2234 Good point, but old habits die hard! (Although I am not so sure about the s/s from China 😀)
I got a digital calliper a while ago. You know, step into the modern age and all that. But the battery dies on your when you need it the most, and the digital measurement is very flaky. I got fed up with it pretty quickly and got a good quality vernier calliper instead. Bombproof, accurate, and never runs out of batteries.
@@CristiNeagu you get what you pay for 😄 Buy Mitut.... and the battery will last years and is so accurate, tested with gauge blocks mostly 0 deviation or +- 1/100 mm..... you'll never need a replacement....
@@anthonywalsh6605 we mostly have Mitu.. in the factory, some Mauser...., so reliable in harsh conditions, I got lazy and replaced my 150mm at home with Mitu.. Digital, only the long guys are traditional as I use them rarely..
That's a superb explanation, I didn't know about step measurement. In our Polish workshop we have old “Made in USSR" calipers that we use daily, after all the years of use, they have surprisingly little amount of play. But for anything that requires proper precision, we use digital one.
Also, a small bit of trivia: In Polish it's called "Suwmiarka", which roughly translates as "Glide scale".
Or "stroke measure" :)
Dzień dobry
VIS vernier calipers for the win.
As you mentioned about 'Play' good Mitutoyo Vernier caliper, made in Japan, have a thin plate on the sliding member which can be adjusted with two fine screws to compensate for any wear and tear. Also an additional sliding member is attached to the main reading piece with a Thimble and screw. This is for fine adjustment while measuring.
Thanks.
Funny, I have a pair of verniers that were made in Poland.
Im 105 year old retired engineer and these informations are great help for the younger generation. Thank you for these.
I'm a 2600 year old retired greek philosopher and I agree with you
@@rojirrim7298 I'm a 10,000 year old subsistence farmer and I agree with both of you.
actual 18 year old account, not sure what to make of it
My grand father was a machinist around 50 BC in Ancient Greece.
He live until the 1800's
how are you typing this since your bones are dust
I started using caliper on my RC car when setting up the steering, suspension and camber of the wheels.
Ever since doing so the handling is out of this world.
The RC car I race is in 1/12 scale and I can use real world set ups by scaling down.
I also used them to construct a aniti roll bar for the suspension on the front and back of the chassis and this has given me a car that handles like a dream.
Because it is front wheel drive i now get that lift off over steer just like the real thing.
That's awesome, would love to see some vids of your car.
Reading this makes my Inner-Geek *so frikkin happy* 😊👍
handles like a dream? and how you've solved that icing problem?
@@mojeimja i don't quite understand what you mean, as I don't race outside unless it's dry in the summer months and indoors through winter.
@@b00ts4ndc4ts
This is an Iron Man joke.
I love how the vernier scale gets you an extra significant figure. Such a neat trick. It is scaled to 11/ 10, predating Spinal Tap 😆
It also has half lines so you don't just get tenths of millimeters but twentieths of millimeters.
The Comic Strup Presents 'Bad News' predates 'Spinal Tap' by a year... They even went on stage at Donington to much amusement.
Do the electronic ones have Dobly? ;-)
One louder!
38+ years machinist here, one thing I would add, when using the blade type calipers, use only the blades when possible. I have measured a plug gage with the blades, then on the heavier flats and gotten a .001" difference. I unserstand that sometimes it can't be helped. Also, search pictures of the Starrett vernier calipers, the only have the main jaws, and they aren't bblades, but nibs that are flat and parallel on the inside (for OD measurement), and radiused on the outside (for ID). There are seperate scales for ID and OD so you don't have to compensate. You didn't mention mechanical dial calipers, no battery and easy to read. Last year I had to replace my 20 year old Browne & Sharp 6" dial calipers when they decided to kiss the floor. I would have sent them for repair, but my company bought me brand new ones. Now owned by a Swiss company, Tesa, and still the same excellent quality. Some regular micrometers also have a vernier scale for measuring to .0001".
Dial were mine and basically everyone else's preference when I was machining. I actually find digital quite annoying.
I have the 530-104 Mitutoyo calipers.
Back when i started engineering school, my dad had an older pair of Mitutoyo's i could use. I loved them, and when *HE* lost them (unknowingly) and blamed me for it, i gifted him the 530-104.
... Then he found his old calipers at the bottom of his toolbox, and he hasn't stopped apologizing since. He gave me back those gifted calipers as an apology. (at my own literal expense :P)
In school, everyone had digital calipers. Except for me. And i couldn't have been happier.
Say what you will about digital. It works, it has its benefits... But it also replaces a lot of hardware it doesn't need to, and ends up inducing error or reliability problems that doesn't belong there.
Analog will fail you when you break it. Digital will fail you when it breaks.
The difference is small, but measurable. Well, _given the right tool of course. ;)_
4:45 - I have been using this type of caliper for many years and have known all but one of the features of the tool you've shown in this post. The one I just now learned from you is how to use the notch in the depth rod and it make perfect sense: for flat bottom holes, place the gap along the wall of the hole; for conical or pointed bottom holes, place the gap away from the wall of the hole.
Thank you for providing detail on the usage of this versatile tool!
My father was a master machinist. His children were raised with micrometers and dial-indicator verniers, working on iron cast machines. There was no CNC. If you lost your zero working on a job, you were basically screwed. This was about 1972. Today, computer control makes these tasks quite a bit easier.
My father taught me never to store the verniers completely closed, and never slam the verniers closed, as a sudden impact might affect the accuracy of the instrument. I still have a pair or two of the old dial-indicator verniers. They are still accurate, and I use them for my woodworking.
That’s so wild. I was about to post that my dad taught me the same thing!!! Still do to this day and I’ve taught my son that too.
I've been in QC for 45 years and that's one of the first things I learned but it's even more important with 0-1" micrometers and never leave gage blocks wrung together. All it takes is the right amount of moisture and they fuse together. I have seen it happen more than once and even if you can get them apart the gauge surfaces are pretty much ruined for any true precision usage.
@@robertc8134 : Your father would have collapsed in shock if he had seen me trying to use a Vernier caliper as a wrench! I was pre-school aged. My father spotted me in time to avoid disaster, but I did get reminded for many years afterwards! 🥴
@@robertc8134 your dad was correct! Any precision equipment like micrometers, calipers if closed during storage it can lead to rust or corrosion, 👍🏼👍🏼
CNC/'computer control' is only as reliably accurate as the program/s behind it.
It's worth checking manually before committing to a new product.
A machinist taught me to always check that the caliper reads zero when closed. If it does not read zero, then it is likely that there are tiny metal chips on the jaws. Also the zero on a dial caliper can be adjusted by loosening a set screw and turning the dial face slightly.
Note that resolution and precision is not the same thing. The digital caliper has a resolution of 0.01mm, but not necessarily that level of precision (check the datasheet). Also, a lot of measurements are tricky to perform by the operator. There's a thing called MSA (measurement system analysis), which is used to determine how reliably an operator can make a certain measurement
There are "micron calipers" now available (0,001 mm). There's not much practical sense, but they exist.
if someone is measuring "by hand" precision of the instrument is the least of the concerns
@@zaxmaxlax Right, so that is why MSA exists, to check the spread of the result from different operators (amongst other influencing factors).
True, but often times resolution is more important. My primary use for calipers is that I zero them to some reference and then use it as a comparator relative to that reference. This renders the precision far less important than the resolution and repeatability.
There are also calipers with a dial, I have a Swiss-made Tesa accurate to 0.02 mm.
Otherwise, the CE = China Export story is just an urban legend, there is even a section about this in the Wikipedia article on CE marking.
In any case, the CE marking is only a sworn statement made by the manufacturer, not a certification mark.
Ahhh Wckipedia. Anyone can write whatever they please there. Made up stuff
I think the statement has to refer to a specific, certified testing laboratory inside the EU so it's somewhat verifiable by simply asking them.
@@blechtic Once again, this is not a certification mark, it is solely under the responsibility of the manufacturer.
Also, they are calipers, there's no safety risk involved...
Regulation (EC) No 765/2008, article 30:
1. The CE marking shall be affixed only by the manufacturer or his authorised representative.
3. By affixing or having affixed the CE marking, the manufacturer indicates that he takes responsibility for the conformity of the product with all applicable requirements set out in the relevant Community harmonisation legislation providing for its affixing.
Thanx for the review, and the reminders and the "new" info. My father was a Civil Engineer and he taught me to read the Vernier scale on his K&E Mountaineer Transit when I was about 14 years old. I still have the pocket magnifying glass he gave me to make it easier to read.
I was a metrologists for many years and find the video informative. The real test comes at the hands of an experienced machinist. Technique is everything!
Actually the only tool I use regulary, and I didn't know about the step. Learned something new today, so not a wasted day. Thanks!
Thank you! I have had a set of digital callipers for YEARS and didn't know about the depth or step measurement options! This is going to make my model making so much more accurate! :)
Working in Machining since the early 70's this is a great video. I have used Vernier Calipers that were 3 and 4 feet long. Still own 12 " ones. This all we had at one time.
Still rocking the dial Starret vernier caliper. Those and the Mitotoyu 0-1, 1-2 and 2-3" mics set are still going strong after 40 years. Buy good tools and take care of them and service when needed and they will last a lifetime.
Mitotoyu are wonderful tools, but be careful when buying, they are often faked.
Or you could buy cheap poor quality tools, and curse your stupid decision for a lifetime?
In tradeschool they would only let us use vernier scale calipers and conventional micrometers. Nowadays I work in a high volume CNC machine shop, we only use digital everything. At home I use the midground between vernier and digital, dial calipers. Easier on the eyes than vernier and doesn't need batteries.
I'm a woodworker and rely on the dials for ease of reading and not needing to change a tiny battery every time I go to use it
Dial calipers looks cool not gonna lie, I'll stick with the vernier though.
Thank you very much! As a student, I had a choice of Marching Band or Shop. I was in the Band and missed out on loads of vital skills. I have frequently found myself in my shop attempting to solve the puzzle of accurate measurement. This video is clear, concise, and extremely helpful in understanding the proper use of my calipers!
I bet your time in marching band has come in useful many times in your adult life!
Pretty nice tutorial. I never used a Vernier Caliper much but I still have my Starrett dial calipers. 40 years and still working perfectly. If I had known how it operated i might have used one instead. simple durable and your battery won't die at the worst possible time.
That was the best explanation on calipers I have seen. I bought a digital calipers but always afraid to use it because of the lack of any knowledge. Now I have an idea I can now at least try out using mine to learn and rewatch your video to compare what I found and what I may not have correct. Brilliant job
I like my Mitutoyo digital calipers. The action feels smooth and the battery lasts a really long time in them compared to cheap chinese calipers. I really like dial calipers but I've had the rack and pinion mechanism fail due to debris ingress. There's nothing to go wrong on vernier calipers, as long as you can read them.
The zero doesn't change. That's a big plus.
2:50 The advantage of digital calipes is that i can read the numbers without using glasses as thick as bottle bottoms. Becoming old is a hard business ^^
Awesome, thank you for a great no nonse, no stretch explanation of a great tool. Keep up the good work!
Except the CE part, as that is false
Excellent Instructional Video!!! Quick and to the point. My only criticism being the fact that some parts are quite vague offering minimal information, however, as a whole, this is a highly efficient and an excellent piece of work. Thank you for making it available to the community.
Not to mention that digital calipers are essentially automatic reading verniers that use varianle capacitors on the slider caused by alternative conductive and isolating strips on the ruler (under the label). Electronoob's video on digital calipers was really inspiring
I think this is the best video I've seen on using these tools properly.
🙂👍
I use the Vernier Calipers in Locksport and although I've used them reasonably right, but now I realise that I need to tweak how I use them.
Like many others I thought the calipers that were non digital were nowhere near as accurate, thanks for clearing that up 🙂👍
5:28 dam. i learned something today. i have always used the depth end to measure steps. now i just need to keep that in mind when next time using calibers
1:10 I recently did a project where I made a large number of accurate measurements using calipers, both digital and vernier. In the end I switched to digital calipers because it reduced the mental labour required.
few days ago I typed 10 times 3 into calculator. I am not machining with my Casio
I use calipers daily and I'm a little amazed that we aren't introduced to them in school. I use everything from cheap plastic verniers (for times when damaging the caliper is a real possibility and high precision isn't critical) to our usual cast of characters. I usually grab dial calipers since it's relatively easy to read and doesn't take batteries. Next is vernier -- again, the battery thing. I usually only go digital if 1) I have batteries since it's probably gone dead since the last time I used it; 2) I have a lot of things to measure since reading the screen is so much easier. All are used and useful.
I was taught how to use a Vernier caliper (and Slide-rule) at school... admittedly that was more than sixty years ago.
These days, that lesson has probably been replaced by "How to use an Electon Microscope"! 😜
@@PiefacePete46 lol. Know what you mean. I was the last slide rule practitioner at my school. I had to stop when they 1) requested more than 3-1/2 digits of precision; and 2) stopped allowing log and trig tables for test taking. Ti-30 to the rescue. Nowadays I just use the 'rule on my desk for funzies when I feel like going old school.
@@terpcj : We are talking about everday items from not too long ago that todays youngsters could puzzle over for hours!
Not long after I left school I worked as an aircraft Load Controller. The balance of the aircraft was calculated with a rudimentary Circular Slide Rule... Today, Google would probably work it all out for me if I asked nicely! 😜
I still have a slide rule in the drawer behind me... I must check it out for a giggle.
@@PiefacePete46 Electron Mics are so yesterday. The heat they generates kills everything. Dark-field is better afaik
@@frozenflyify : Damn... I might have to go back to school! At 78 years old, that's a scary prospect! 🥴 😜
CE was new to me. Great guide for a beginner!
I'd also like to add, be careful not to apply too much force to the slide, as excessive pressure can cause the caliper jaws to misalign and result in inaccurate measurements. This is especially crucial when measuring from the thinner tip of the calipers. If additional force is needed, apply pressure on either side of the caliper jaws themselves causing direct compressive forces, rather than through the slide, as this will prevent misalignment between the body and the slide.
It's an urban myth that's hard to kill. It was all over the European tec community 15 years ago.
It's been debunked a lot of times, even in the European Parliament. Links to debunk on the Wikipedia page en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_marking
I was in a technical school more than 40 years ago before the digital age caught on. We learned to read verniers and micrometres and how to set up and use shapers. The new thing for me is step measurement. Nowadays you are the man if you can program CNC.
WOWZA!!! Like others, I thought I knew how to both read and use a Caliper. I did not, until now! Most excellent! I am sending to many gearhead friends. Good job.
Some of us older engineers can read vernier scales because we learned to read a similar scale on our slide rules!
Some of us even older engineers CAN'T read vernier scales because we CAN'T SEE THE BLOODY SCALE! 😠 😜
And the young people today don't even know what a slide rule is. Let alone how they would be used.
@@mikewatson4644 And almost all of you couldn't drive a Model T Ford because technology has surpassed the need to know how. No one needs a slide rule now except to measure their black and white RCA picture tube and find some weird level of superiority over those that couldn't care less.
@@booifojoe Can't agree with that. i am a retired pilot and we use(d) circular slide rules. We called them 'whiz wheels' and they are easy to carry, cheap, reliable, rugged and can do all kinds of calculations. Not sure i've seen a calculator for doing that but there may be.
The vid was amazing as i had no idea about the finer points
@@booifojoe There are lots of slightly modified slide rules used for things today. For example, there is one that is used for calculating how much concrete is required for a slab. I was helping to pour a rather large slab recently (required 5 truck loads) and we were getting down to needing the last load. We measured the area that was left. 1 guy pulled out his cell phone and started to use the calculator. Another guy pulled out the modified slide rule and started to slide the dial around. I did it in my head and beat both of them. To be fair, I had a head start because I started to figure as soon as we started to measure.
I have owned a digital pair for about 15 years. I have barely used them because I don't often use the tool the battery dies and it seems foolish to buy a new battery just for the occassional measurement. So I recently invested in some non digital (difficult to obtain in the part of the world where I live until recently). Of course I had no idea they could be so accurate nor that they had so applications, not being a machinist, I use them in woodwork. Very interesting and informative video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
For years I used digital calipers for 3D Printing and CAD but it always struggled to geht designs to fit vor geht accurate prints. Two years ago I bought a analog one and instantly everything fits perfect first time. Comparing the analog with the digital it is a huge difference in accuarcy and consistency
Did you just have a cheap digital? There isn't a really good reason for digital to be more/less accurate (it actually just uses a conductive vernier scale on the back to measure)
My grandfather was a machinist. I learned a few things from this video, thanks so much
Thanks for this info. The step measurement was also new to me. I also prefer the vernier calipers, as my digital one burns through the battery quickly.
China Export calipers are usually (electrically) very bad designed and use 1 battery per 3 months (if you are lucky). I invested in a Mitutoyo 10 years ago and never have had to replace the battery...
Hi James, just what I have been looking for as confirmation of how to use a set of calipers - absolutely brilliant, thank you so much! A friend told me how to use them, but I never quantified his advice, you have just done it!! An absolutely great, no nonsense video with clear and concise information and advice (esp the bit about Chinese made rubbish). Many thanks. Regards from the UK.
Calipers are a Must Have Precision Tool for Everyone. You didn't show a dial caliper, which are great for reading ease and no battery (I'm still using the Brown and Sharpes from 1983). The downside with dial calipers is that they are either metric or standard. I'm sorry but standard vernier calipers are too time consuming and difficult for new users. My favorite calipers are 8" Mitutoyo Digital, they are super smooth and accurate. The batteries last 1 to 3 years depending on use. Great video ;keep up the good work. I'm a retired tool and die maker from Honda.
Nice tutorial I purchased my first Vernier calliper in 1975 a 6 inch Japanese instrument it cost me £49 still using it today although I am long retired, a point of interest in 1975 my weekly take home pay was £7 so it was not exactly a cheap tool.
I'm a 76 year old caliper and I found this video very accurate
Worth watching even if you thought you knew all about calipers. The CE issue was the best explanation I've seen, and I now need to go and check all my stuff!
What an awesome channel! Crisp and detailed information precisely explained. That is pretty rare nowadays. Thanks for the great job and keep up the good work.
Before this video, I didn't know about the depth measurement possibility at all! I have a $10 AliExpress digital caliper for home use and it has always served me well. Thank you for a very informative video.
I didn't think I could learn something new from this video, but the step measuring was new to me. I just used the depth measure to measure steps. Great and informative video, keep up the good work
This video sure helped me, thank you. I use my digital calipers all of the time but I learned a lot more about them after watching this video.
I’ve had a set of Mitutoyo calipers for about 25 years. They still have no play in the jaws and were used extensively during my time working as a mechanic on heavy machinery. I’ve been retired for 10 years but still use my vernier calipers all the time in my home workshop as well as a Mitutoyo 0-1 inch micrometer for really accurate measurements. I was brought up using inches but systems changed to metric in my younger days. I still like to measure fine measurements in thousands of an inch rather than using my metric mics.
I never knew about step measurement. Every day is a learning day. Thank you.
Holy cow! Never knew the CE detail!! Also that step method is new to me!
CE thing is a myth.
step method is like the depth method but done with the other end
It's an urban myth that's hard to kill. It was all over the European tec community 15 years ago.
It's been debunked a lot of times, even in the European Parliament. Links to debunk on the Wikipedia page en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_marking
@@nilshagness8055 It's hard to kill because you always end up with some new person with an audience thinking its real. It is incredibly ironic that this is a growing problem in the information age where information is more readily available, but apparently so is misinformation.
⭐⭐⭐ How refreshing to hear a young person who actually understands the ins and outs of a caliper. It would be nice to see a follow up video on how to use gage R&R results to improve your metrology skills.
Of course, he may be an old person who has mastered the ins and outs of sounding young. 😜
Great video many thanks.
If you are using them when machining, warm parts or parts with different temps. The readings will differ.
indeed
My old 1976 standard issue engineers rule actually has the accuracy temperature stamped on it!
Great guide on how to use the very versatile calipers!
Straight to the point with clear explanations.
The step measurement was new to me. I've been using the depth guage, but it's sometimes hard to get it straight. And if there is a slight gap in the step, the very slim guage can slip under it.
Also has hammer mode for tapping in small nails and can be used to pull nails as well.
naughty lad
Don't forget "Wrench mode"! 😜
Crowbar mode too
And scribing lines like a marking guage 😂.
@@Steve-GM0HUU that's a great idea and save lots of time too
For you model railroaders out there, Pacific Fast Mail once imported vernier calipers in both HO scale and O scale versions. Nice quality as they were made by Mitutoyo. Nice to read direct without having to make a number conversion. They are a bit collectible now and may cost a bit but turn up on eBay from time to time.
Oh, nifty! I hadn't heard about those before, and now I want one.
Most electronic versions even turn off . Still use a tiny bit of battery life. So if used infrequently. Pull out the battery. Ready to put back in the next time you need it. Nothing worse trying to use it , only to find the dead battery.
I have a rule to always keep a spare fresh battery in the caliper box.
exactly why I own dial calipers
Worse is if the battery also leaked and you have to clean out the crud inside.
Most underrated tool. Invest in it right away, very helpful. Especially when designing something
The whole China Export myth has been debunked already but it keeps popping up. The CE marking on products manufactured in China actually corresponds to the European CE marking required on some products but it looks different due to changes in dimensions and typography. There is no official CE logo specification. Also, the European CE marking only indicates (but is not proof!) that the manufacturer claims to have passed the required quality controls (which is always the responsibility of the manufacturer). This is often the case but not always. And the reason they put the CE logo on there is because the European Union demands that for a whole slew of products that manufacturers want to sell in Europe. Just search for it and they are easy to find.
There is a very precise official CE logo specification
You could even use calipers to check it...
"There is no official CE logo specification."
Actually, there is a very specific set of criteria for its relative dimensions. And length over all can't be shorter than 5 mm. (in those cases it can be printed on the packaging and/or instruction manual, or other documentation if applicable.)
It is literally part of the CE directive itself.
However, the requirement that the two circles should overlap has been misunderstood by a few manufacturers that has ended up printing it incorrectly.
One being Microsoft, having the compressed (and thereby incorrect) version on their wireless Xbox 360 controllers.
my tip as a professional:
you can adjust the tension on the guide-rails. there are 2 holes at the top with tiny screws. adjust these carefully and test how much play there is.
this also changes the angle of the caliper-arms and how the zero-point for inner and outer measurements behave in comparison.
if adjusted properly, the zeropoint for inner and outer measurements are the same and evrything that should be 90 degree also is 90 degree. keep in mind, that there is some spring tension on the guiding rail! if you adjust it to tight, to a point where the spring is fully loaded, you will be damaging your guide-rails.
the next useful thing to know: the electronic measurement-system is usually more accurate than what the display shows. if the display can show 0.01mm, the internal measurement is usually like 0.0025mm. if you press the zero button, you reset to exactly 0. if it shows 0.00mm and you press the zero button you will reset the internal measurement. it might have been 0.0025mm and you move the zero-point to exactly 0 moving it by less than 0.01mm.
you can adjust the caliper more precisely than the 0.01mm it shows!
always check the calipers against a part with an exact known value (like in the video).
i usually check it with cylindrical testing pins. its much easier to keep them clean and the shape allows you to test a single spot on your measuring-arms. the squared testing-parts can be hard to handle correctly and need to be really really clean. a small defect on the surface of the caliper or the testing part ruins your precision. round testing pieces are a lot more forgiving to defects and dust! use those!
if you treat your calipers good and adjust them well, you can reliably measure within +-0.01mm.
usually these are meant to be used to measure nothing more pecise than +-0.05mm and at a professional level you should use better tools for anything that needs more precision than that. but its still nice to have your calipers working way better than the +-0.05mm.
sry for my bad english. im not a native speaker.
Another superb tutorial. Thank you by, Mr. Gatlin.
I got an education on how to use calibres. I just use them for my guitars' nut measures & model railroading coupler mounting. Never knew you can use for so much more,
Thank you.
Suggestion for the presenter: If you're pointing at very fine lines (such as what is inscribed on a caliper) avoid using your finger (which is a couple of orders of magnitude thicker than the lines). Instead, using something of similar fineness, such as a sharp pencil or the tip of a pen. Thanks.
Master optician, LLNL.
Great video, very informative. My only caveat is that when performing micron-level measurements, heat from your hand will affect the caliper, gradually reducing accuracy. Allow the caliper/micrometer, etc. to acclimate to room temperature between readings.
China Export reminds me of the district in Japan in the 60's called Usa. So they could market as Made In U. S. A. by marking the product Made In USA
I remember... I seem to recall they had "Switzerland" as well, for "Made in Switzerland" watches.
They also added one jewel, so watches could have "Jewelled Movement" printed on the face.
The solution to that was that watch faces had to say how many jewels were in the movement...
The answer to that rule was watches with "0 Jewels" on the face!
Of course it was only a matter of time before Japan moved on from this nonsense, and started producing some stunning high-class products.
"Made in Japan" no longer had a stigma attached to it... I guess China will follow this path very quickly.
@@PiefacePete46 What I've learned is that the "NO (0) JEWELS INSIDE" was put there on watches with non-jeweled movements to avoid the higher import duties for jeweled movements put in place to make customers choose domestic watchmakers.
I never even knew about this!! Thanks for the info!
@@ZacabebOTG : That makes sense. My version came from my father... it could easily have been his own interpretation, or a story being spread at the time. "Misinformation" is not as new as we think! 😉
@@PiefacePete46I don’t think Chinese companies need to really care about the quality of their products. They have much less competition than Japan did and operate primarily in environments that reward deception, like Amazon’s marketplace.
I was a mechanical inspector for 30 years and I had one of these in my hand every day. My generation used the dial caliper, and I like that better because you can see changes on the analog dial. Vernier calipers were old-school but we knew they were more accurate. (NOT more precise! Don't mistake accuracy with precision. They both measure to 0.001".
BTW, the Vernier Scale was invented by Pierre Vernier in 1631! It's a really clever invention if you think about it.
OMG, is that an original Weyland-Yutani®calliper in that blue box @ 00:25?
"Calipers For Dummies". seasoned users and experts always seem to forget beginners so a guide like this is bloody welcome, thank you 🤩
I use a dial indicator caliper and I love that tool. The cheap digital ones don't have proper power management when turned off, so your battery will not last long.
Even the proper CE label only means that the manufacturer claims that it conforms to the standards given, but no one ever checks it, so you need to trust every Chinese backyard shop not to lie about it. IMHO, it's completely useless.
Thanks Bro. I used the Tesa dial indicator vernier almost everyday of my engineering life!!!
Thanks for that, never too old (77) to learn.
I'm a retired electrician who had to learn how to use micrometer to measure wire. We had to learn the diameter think it was from 15 to 10 guage because wire diameter doubles or halves evety 6 wire sizes. ( Never came across 11,13 or 15 gauge wire but some motors might use them ). Have a set of Vernier calipers and find them hard to use. Will measure something with them then get one of my Starrett 6" rulrd out to measure Verner.
I contest they are far more accuret than digital because you can and often set the ZERO Wrog. You can not set the Wrong ZERO with a Vernier caliper
Yeah but the accuracy comes down to users eyesight. Let's say digital is more accurate in that the number displayed is the number you use, where as with verniers you could be out because you couldn't quite see a distinction between which line was closer.
As a machinist, my favorite way to use calipers...is to get a micrometer 😛 jokes aside, very informative and handy video to show to anyone who is learning to measure with hand tools. We had an operator who had been on a mill for almost year, and he didn't know that you could measure things other than just using the inside of the blades. Not his fault though, as he was not properly shown how to use them. I've made the extra effort since to ensure any new hires, or those who have moved up from deburr, understand the power of these tools.
Also wild fact about the Conformity! Definitely glad I still decided to watch a video on a tool I look at 5 days a week, as I learned something new.
Please make a video on how to handle, clean and oil calipers :)
alot of these videos are usually filled with jargon without explanation. this includes that and more with visual examples. hella nice brother
What amuses me is the price range of calipers. A 12-inch caliper can run anywhere from under $20 to over $1,000. While the $1,000 caliper is extremely accurate and precise, the $20 caliper is still good to 0.001" and suffices for most applications. To be told, I do have a number of high dollar, high accuracy and precision instruments, but they are not used every day and are primarily used for inspection. Needless to say, no one touches them but me.
Did you know that if you are trying to do high precision work, how you hold your measuring instruments can affect their accuracy.
Yes and a 1 or 2 degree temp change from inside machine check to outside on table changes size and reading and calipers good to .005 or more anything smaller needs mics. Have indicators and mics down to .00001
@@scottrhodes3929 It is the old story of accuracy versus precision. Usually we like to have both.
very handy, I did not know about the step measurement. I'd been measuring things using the very tip mostly- I'll be using the base now, I'm surprised I didn't reason that out on my own. That CE detail will come in handy for all sorts of stuff too. Great vid!
2:07 Holy crap! This is high-value info here. I don't pull out the calipers often, and when I do it's a digital caliper but after this video that my change. Digital calipers are frustrating and finicky at times, at least mine are, but I've put up with them due to my belief their accuracy and general ease of use outweighed their flaws. What I learned from this video in just the first 2.5 minutes has changed my mind. And made me hate button batteries even more!
Also take a look at dial calipers, they're my favorite type of calipers, but a bit harder to find. They're faster to read than Vernier calipers, but still no batteries.
When I worked as for QA as an engineer, we would use our cheaper calipers (the ones that weren't Mitutoyo) to also score lines on our metal blocks to indicate measurements. The calipers are, as far as I know, all made out of hardened stainless steel so it was easy to use as a scribe
I've even seen a case of someone suggesting grinding one of the jaws to a sharper point for the purpose. (And, yes, on a cheap caliper set of course!)
Using vernier calipers is the only time I actually appreciate being near-sighted. Once those glasses come off, my eyes have magnification built in... ^.^
I like the Dial calipers . But I have a few of the 4” vernier calipers they are accurate to 0.001 inch . That I use while turning on a manual lathe. This is a great video to show people how to use and how to read them. 👍👍👍
2:35 hate to be that guy but i think you meant 2.39 mm ;)
Funny how he's able to read a normal caliper but fails to read a digital one 😂
Hey man, having learnt micromechanics in switzerland, you are acurrate in every way wich is nice to see for once, and you even confirmed a few things that i was pretty sure about but that i know anyone else could have known about. Great video, i hope you keep going in educational material like that. Best of luck to you !
I dropped and bent my Vernier callipers so I thought I'd splash out on a pair of digitals , I now wish I'd bought another pair of Verniers , the battery doesn't run out when you need it most . I will be buying a Vernier and a dial calliper next .
I have to admit, I didn't know about step measurement. Up until now, I've always used depth measurement for this task. Thanks!
I'm old so I know how to read them but I will take dial or digital any day. Cause I'm also lazy and impatient.
Step measuring, the China Export" thung, and the real meaning of the charts were totally new for me. Thank you very much!
The "China Export" thing is a myth.
Fun Fact! The "China export" symbol doesn't actually exist. It's just that some manufacturers (mostly the cheap one, who happen to be concentrated in China) don't use the symbol as specified in the regulations, only something that looks like it. That doesn't mean that the product doesn't otherwise conform to European standards, but it's a good indication that a manufacturer isn't all that attentive to regulatory details.
Fun fact the symbol exists in so much as there are so many Chinese manufacturers using it to imply something it's not. Has nothing to do with attention to regulatory detail, it's entirely there to deceive. Have been experiencing this logo being used in electronics, radio and other tech areas. It's very common on counterfeit circuit boards and component supplies and has been for ~20 years.
@@dennis8196
China export is a 15 year old myth. It's been debunked a lot of times, even in the European Parliament.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_marking
@@dennis8196 Printed circuit boards do not need to bear the CE mark. Since PCBs are a component and therefor only part of a larger product and is thereby except. (Not I am oversimplifying greatly here, since it depends on a lot of factors.)
But secondly.
The biggest producer of the compressed (and thereby incorrect) version of the CE mark is Microsoft, on their wireless Xbox 360 controllers. Not a particularly cheap product, and not made by a particularly small company. It is however a simple mistake to make when label design doesn't get checked by the legal team.
@@todayonthebench I didn't say it was a requirement. It was used to imply fraudulent country of origin. Furthermore PCB's are the end product in many cases where my comment refers.
@@dennis8196 Yes, you didn't.
My comment were simply to clarify that it often isn't on PCBs.
But the second part of the comment is about the fact that a lot of the compressed CE marks stems not from a desire to deceive, but rather from misunderstanding the regulation stipulating the design of the mark itself.
A trick I picked up when I first started using vernier calipers is that if it's hard to identify the best fit, find the last mark that's clearly on the left, then find the first mark that's clearly on the right. Usually those will be 2 marks apart and the correct one will be the one in the middle. Or, you can just average those to amounts and call it good enough. Often times it won't be absolutely 100% in alignment.
I never knew about step measurements, I always used the depth rod.
The step feature was new when I bought my first set in 1970. Handy!!!!
I think you are in good company there.
Thank you. I've been using calipers for a long time, but some things in this video were new to me.
Interesting to know about the ce mark, thank you. Chris in UK.
Even if it does have the EU CE mark, if it's from China it's possibly faked.
There was a joke from half a century ago that claimed that (Japan) (China) had named a city "Usa" so they could honestly say it was "Made in USA". Now they're doing it. Sigh.
It's not true
The CE mark is bogus. Only thing in the video I found wrong.
@@RobertKarlBerta In what way? There ARE two almost identical marks with VERY different meanings.
Thanks for sharing this. I did not know I could measure the depth with my simple digital caliper.