PSA - If you are a meshtastic user in an urban area, please don't make your node a "Repeater". Make it a "Client" unless it's on a radio tower or on top of a skyscraper, and you've got it set up to run for at least a month on batteries alone.
So what changes specifically when you put it into repeater mode? I have put up a solar powered node 50 ft up on my tower, with a 15 dbi antenna, and a month of battery life.
@@kenneth6731 So when you put it into repeater mode, #1 it will remove itself from visibility on the active Nodes list. #2 (and this is more important) when it announces itself hourly or whatever you set it to be (I would recommend 1-6 hours) it will then be a priority for any node that knows about it to send to. Same with Router mode. In fact there are only small differences between Router and Repeater modes. I would probably opt for Repeater before Router. If a badly placed router in in your mesh it can quite easily take the entire mesh to much lower performance standards.
@@kenneth6731 For example I have an 80ft node on top of a building that I spent $500 on hardware for... a Station G2 with 25W solar and 100,000mah of lifepo4 batteries, and many other features, and while it's a very busy node I STILL run it as a client. Routers and Repeaters really are for extremely well-placed nodes that can see in all directions.
Have you seen how they're integrating JS8 with meshtastic nodes? JS8 pulls down information and meshtastic distributes it to low power devices. That looks like a cool idea. EDIT: I've been told to check these batteries polarity with a multimeter. I've heard some people have had issues with them wired incorrectly.
Nice little set up. I wouldn't add a GPS module to a repeater, especially if you intend setting it up somewhere remote. When all said and done, it's a fixed unit, so it's not going to moving around, pluse you can always set it's "fixed" location via you phone. Also, by not having the GPS onboard, less risk of it being found by unscrupulous people.
Seeing it on (blinking) with the antenna off is giving me anxiety. I burned out a 4630 core doing that. I accidentally knocked off the ipex connector while working on almost the exact same setup as that. Was only off a minute or two, and I immediately started getting all sorts of issues and reboots that I narrowed down to the core. Replaced the 4630 core from Rokland and it's been humming along ever since. I have 5 of these running. Another thing to pay attention to is the polarity of the JST 2.0 connector on the base board. There is a 2.0 for battery in and a 1.5 for solar. If you buy that random set of JST cables off Amazon they are generally opposite of what the board calls for. (The red and black are backward in relation to how RAK does it) Very important to check before applying power.
@@temporarilyofflineground/ neg is towards the edge of the board for both the connectors (I.e. opposite edges) & the positive connectors are both towards the center of the board 19003 or 19007 base with the rak 4631 board on top of it, (with the rak 4630 metal box already on top of that! I dont see “4631” on that board only the 4630 label on the little box). Lipo batteries often come with the smaller connector, the size that goes on solar charging connector, the wrong place to connect the battery.
@@jertres2887 I feel like (since JST's are "one way") that RAK should have just gone with the standard, and they should probably have found a source and resold the batteries and other parts. If it were my company, I'd try to sell as complete of solution as possible.
Rokland (American distributor) now has Unify solar enclosures, where the solar panel is built into the case, so there's no need for running wires through the case.
I built one myself this last spring. They work flawlessly and the RAK boards just sip power. Mine has been up and running for almost 6 months now with no issues in operation. The only real problem I have is that the RAK systems do not support updating over wireless so if you ever wish to update the firmware/software you will need to take the unit down to plug it into a PC. Depending on where you've put the device that may or may not be an issue.
You could save some cash by using a single 18650 batteryn and holder. Or even two in parallel if you live in places that gets larger bouts of darkness or very over cast weather. Also you don't need the GPS really. Its just another device that eats battery power. You can just add in a fixed set of coordinates in the Meshtastic node to show its position, and this can be anywhere you like. better for security than a GPS, though with GPS you can set an approximate distance around the nodes location to help hide its true location.
You can definitely replace some of those parts with cheaper versions + aquarium silicone sealant and hot glue, the other little antenna is the 915 one, NOTE: it’s important not to power up the board without antennas if you don’t want to permanently fry your tiny transmitters
@@temporarilyoffline nah, I think it's because in 99% of videos or instructions they say over and over not to do that. They drilled it in to me so well that it gave me anxiety seeing you do that 😂😂
@@TheRealBigJake I don't know if it caused any issues, but we'll see... You're either mesh deep or your mesh less...and as I travel I'm more mesh less then meshful unfortunately.
what u mean by meshtestic "repeater"??? Don't all meshtestic devices are designed to re-transmit any msg they receive and not intended for them, which makes them repeaters?
Your personal pocket sized meshtastic device does indeed repeat traffic, but it doesn't have altitude or power or is always on. Community members have taken it upon themselves to fill the voids in coverage to get signals to travel further and enable a wider range of communications possibilities.
PSA - If you are a meshtastic user in an urban area, please don't make your node a "Repeater". Make it a "Client" unless it's on a radio tower or on top of a skyscraper, and you've got it set up to run for at least a month on batteries alone.
Thanks for the tip!
Please explain why
So what changes specifically when you put it into repeater mode? I have put up a solar powered node 50 ft up on my tower, with a 15 dbi antenna, and a month of battery life.
@@kenneth6731 So when you put it into repeater mode, #1 it will remove itself from visibility on the active Nodes list. #2 (and this is more important) when it announces itself hourly or whatever you set it to be (I would recommend 1-6 hours) it will then be a priority for any node that knows about it to send to. Same with Router mode. In fact there are only small differences between Router and Repeater modes. I would probably opt for Repeater before Router. If a badly placed router in in your mesh it can quite easily take the entire mesh to much lower performance standards.
@@kenneth6731 For example I have an 80ft node on top of a building that I spent $500 on hardware for... a Station G2 with 25W solar and 100,000mah of lifepo4 batteries, and many other features, and while it's a very busy node I STILL run it as a client. Routers and Repeaters really are for extremely well-placed nodes that can see in all directions.
Have you seen how they're integrating JS8 with meshtastic nodes? JS8 pulls down information and meshtastic distributes it to low power devices. That looks like a cool idea.
EDIT: I've been told to check these batteries polarity with a multimeter. I've heard some people have had issues with them wired incorrectly.
I saw both of those, I gotta do more JS8
Def check the polarity of the plug on the battery. I had to re-pin mine. After letting the smoke out.
Nice little set up. I wouldn't add a GPS module to a repeater, especially if you intend setting it up somewhere remote. When all said and done, it's a fixed unit, so it's not going to moving around, pluse you can always set it's "fixed" location via you phone. Also, by not having the GPS onboard, less risk of it being found by unscrupulous people.
I wouldn't put one in either. I'd go for weather data myself.
You can set a fixed position that is not very close and fake it too
Seeing it on (blinking) with the antenna off is giving me anxiety. I burned out a 4630 core doing that. I accidentally knocked off the ipex connector while working on almost the exact same setup as that. Was only off a minute or two, and I immediately started getting all sorts of issues and reboots that I narrowed down to the core. Replaced the 4630 core from Rokland and it's been humming along ever since. I have 5 of these running.
Another thing to pay attention to is the polarity of the JST 2.0 connector on the base board. There is a 2.0 for battery in and a 1.5 for solar. If you buy that random set of JST cables off Amazon they are generally opposite of what the board calls for. (The red and black are backward in relation to how RAK does it) Very important to check before applying power.
Thanks for the tips!
@@temporarilyofflineground/ neg is towards the edge of the board for both the connectors (I.e. opposite edges) & the positive connectors are both towards the center of the board 19003 or 19007 base with the rak 4631 board on top of it, (with the rak 4630 metal box already on top of that! I dont see “4631” on that board only the 4630 label on the little box). Lipo batteries often come with the smaller connector, the size that goes on solar charging connector, the wrong place to connect the battery.
@@jertres2887 I feel like (since JST's are "one way") that RAK should have just gone with the standard, and they should probably have found a source and resold the batteries and other parts. If it were my company, I'd try to sell as complete of solution as possible.
Rokland (American distributor) now has Unify solar enclosures, where the solar panel is built into the case, so there's no need for running wires through the case.
Good find!
@@temporarilyoffline I've had some water ingress issues with the Unify enclosures. YMMV
I built one myself this last spring. They work flawlessly and the RAK boards just sip power. Mine has been up and running for almost 6 months now with no issues in operation. The only real problem I have is that the RAK systems do not support updating over wireless so if you ever wish to update the firmware/software you will need to take the unit down to plug it into a PC. Depending on where you've put the device that may or may not be an issue.
Luckily they work so well that you don't need to upgrade often!
The nRF Device Firmware Update app resolves this issue and allows you to wirelessly update over Bluetooth.
You could save some cash by using a single 18650 batteryn and holder. Or even two in parallel if you live in places that gets larger bouts of darkness or very over cast weather. Also you don't need the GPS really. Its just another device that eats battery power. You can just add in a fixed set of coordinates in the Meshtastic node to show its position, and this can be anywhere you like. better for security than a GPS, though with GPS you can set an approximate distance around the nodes location to help hide its true location.
Good points!
I would solder on an oled and a push button (my Rak Wisboard has one of each) so if needed, open the box and see if it’s alive.
Good idea!
Great video. You put out such great content. Thank you for taking the time to make the video
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks!
You can definitely replace some of those parts with cheaper versions + aquarium silicone sealant and hot glue, the other little antenna is the 915 one, NOTE: it’s important not to power up the board without antennas if you don’t want to permanently fry your tiny transmitters
Thanks for the tip! It's all about finding what works best for your setup.
Nice little project, great work, tnx Man!
Thanks mate!
There is an 3DP adapter that makes mounting the baseboard to the project box much easier
These 3DP guys will think of anything!
Where is the Vent on that box ? I would add one.
Go for it! geni.us/WPG2r0b
I don't think you need to power input wires with the solar panel you got as the USB-C connector is connected to the charge circuit.
You're correct!
nuts for mounting to the wall = walnuts :D
Yes indeed!
When you get a chance how about addressing how to charge a 12v LiFePO4 battery from a 12 volt system such as a car or trailer.
Good idea, thanks. You just need a boost converter to step up to the right charging voltage.
Definitely not a repeater/router at 30’. Client would be the best setting unless you’re 100’s to 1000’s of feet above a service area
Height Is Might!
Thank you for mentioning this
We need a simple kit APRS digipeater
We sure do. There are a few, but not as simple as I think the should be so far. More to play with!
Did you take the antenna off while it was running 😳
Of course I did, I live in the edge!
@@temporarilyoffline that was like fingernails on the chalkboard for me 😂
You've fried a lot of these? 😂
@@temporarilyoffline nah, I think it's because in 99% of videos or instructions they say over and over not to do that. They drilled it in to me so well that it gave me anxiety seeing you do that 😂😂
@@TheRealBigJake I don't know if it caused any issues, but we'll see... You're either mesh deep or your mesh less...and as I travel I'm more mesh less then meshful unfortunately.
it repeats the sun!
Sure do!
what u mean by meshtestic "repeater"??? Don't all meshtestic devices are designed to re-transmit any msg they receive and not intended for them, which makes them repeaters?
Your personal pocket sized meshtastic device does indeed repeat traffic, but it doesn't have altitude or power or is always on. Community members have taken it upon themselves to fill the voids in coverage to get signals to travel further and enable a wider range of communications possibilities.
Needs a breather vent
Thanks!
ARRREETHEEAAAIIIII
Watch out! She gonna get ya!