2021 Ping Pong Ball Valve For A Water Pump
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ส.ค. 2023
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Well that took me right back to my childhood , my old man built a pumping station at five mile, I remember him giving me a very heavy solid red rubber ball about the size of a softball that had been swapped out of one of the new units in the station, you could not kick it without breaking your toes or indeed throw it without causing damage, I remember it disappeared fairly rapidly.
Thank you for these videos! You are doing amazing good and I will be sending the Folks of Lahaina a micro SD card with these videos and I am sure you are gonna be a popular guy after all this! Probably the only TH-cam videos to be watched in West Maui. 🙏❤️
A water diode :)) Another great and useful video!
Rather diode can be called as eNRV😃
This is pure synchronicity lol. A little current powered lift I am working on, will fit perfect. Was working out pump design or debating buying something off shelf. Cheers Mate, thank-you, and God bless.
After seeing how much a none return valve for "1"1/2 pipe costs! I decided to make more or less the same set up as you. The only thing I calculated was the area of the pipe where the water goes in and out to make sure its the same area as the pipe I was using as a pump suction hose. Just so I know the water flow will not be reduced! Keep up the great work, Shaun.
I've seen this done with smaller pipes using a Brad nail as a stopper and a bouncing ball as the ball for the check valve. Works a treat mate!😊
Airlift pumps are pretty interesting old tech that pump a surprising amount of water. Cheers
I saw one a few years ago on here that i think was like a transfer pump where it sucks as well as blows that was it was configured like a T handle bicycle air pump, here is the best one i found , it's not the one i remember though. I share your video with a guy showing how he built his.
This is wonderful just what I want for my low pressure rain water toilet. Please just keep these ideas coming. Am I the first?
I wonder how do you use it ? How works your system ?
@@AutoNomadesHi Currently I have the IBS tank on a manual switch but in the past I put low pressure valves on but they always leaked I had thought about fashioning one from the ball in a deodorant bottle but RMS come up with the ping-pong ball and readily available parts so I should give it a go. He has so many wonderful ideas that I want to try that it will take the next three lifetimes.
Cool, just what I need for my fishpond to stop the filter dumping dirty water back into the pond if the pump fails or the power goes off.
Another simply marvelous video.
Lovely job Robert!!!
thanks for uploading, it really makes my evening to see your videos ❤
We make these for model power boats. one end has a small pin to keep the ball, and the other has an O-ring.
I built something similar using JG fittings and a weighted ball to make a one-way valve that also closes if a certain flow rate is exceeded. I bought sets of different weights to tune it.
Ah - this could be a springless hydraulic ram pump...!
Absolutely!
You’re having too much fun! 😎
Now to make a ram pump 😊
Who's having a competition 😂, it's good to share 😊
My dinghy had one to drain the cockpit of water, The problem was that the ball dried-out and got brittle during storage, so it fell to bits and water got into the cockpit.
But not to worry, when the water was ankle-deep, I rolled the boat on its side, and the water.drained.
Good to know that the ball doesn't conserve for ever ! So we let a way to open the system and change it without breaking all.......
Simplest check valve - Tesla valve.
Ping.. Pong.. Ball. 😊❤
I have a sump in the garden to drain it, it used to very waterlogged, it pumps out via a 40mm pipe, I have tried a few off the shelf type valves and none have been brilliant, after the pump stops about 2-3 gallons run back into the sump, I'd given up trying to remedy it. I'll try this, thanks.
Love it
Great video..
Roll on Deodrant ball also works.
Much tougher and more accurately spherical too.
Good to know ! What is it made of ?
❤️
Dear Robert and team,
If I get round one day too stationing a large electric motor outdoors
Pointing west, with option of creating funnels etc etc
I will let you know by posting
Until then
I love what you share
Thank you on behalf of all young and not so farmers
Henry
2 kewl. Ping Pong balls are expensive now, as is plumbing, but this is far less than buying a valve that may not even be available.
Are we making a ram type pump?
3:40 how about connecting it to a diy wind mill? Will it pull from 10 feet depth? I want to make one that keeps pumping water when the wind flows, part fountain and part irrigation system...
ram pump?
As you've already made a chain why not make a chain pump?
It sounds like he's actually pumping with something else @3:55 and this is just a check valve.
I'm surprised the ball doesn't float.
What happens if the seal starts to leak, could it float then?
What about if there's some pressure on the other side?
Or does the Venturi effect solve these issues???
Hi Robert, do you know of any ways of extracting energy from rapid changes in static pressure?
I'm experimenting something around that, in the way you can see with the "solar vacuum pump" experiment made by Mr Teslonian. I think it could be coupled with many energy harvesters like the one connected to trees branches (wind catcher..) .. Two valves, à piston / membrane / silicon peer and let's go to make a gravity water battery !
I am a bit of Weirdo!! You talk about water-lock with Ping-pong ball. I see an overheating protection on a Darwin with a big Pilates ball! Thank Robert I Just playing with the thought to change direction on the funnel Pelton-wheel! Take two paarts and make suction action! For get out the best from 0,5-9 s/m! /Mikael
I need a sump pump check valve replaced after moving in this house recently. My question would be, since a sump pump flows rather hard, would it put a strain on the pump restricting the flow to go through those holes? Ot make the pump run longer than it used to..
A flap valve will not restrict flow. Similar to the flap in the toilet tank.
yeah, I will have to consider both ways. I would rather not have to buy one but have not shopped for it either. Sounds bit high according to happydaysveg1965 below here.
A long post, sorry…
Before you stumble onto a valve design I came up with some years ago, I will share it.
Background: I wanted to have two below-the-waterline bilge areas in my sailboat to be plumbed to one thru-hull using bilge pumps that both had automatic switches. But I didn’t want to use a typical three-way valve (the switches would have had to be manual) that has to be manually set to one side or the other. And a standard Tee fitting won’t work, either. The active pump will pump to the other bilge area rather than pushing the discharge over board. Then the pump in that bilge area will push the discharge back.
Solution: a tee fitting with a stopper-ball that moves back and forth depending on which pump is active pushing the stopper-ball to seal the non-active side forcing the discharge to go over board.
Method: On the straight “through-section” of a Tee fitting, put two elbows pointing away from the “down-leg” of the Tee. Before sealing the second Tee, put a stopper-ball in the “through-section” of the Tee.
The elbows go to either of two below-the-waterline areas of your boat. The “down-leg” of the Tee goes to a siphon break and then to a thru-hull.
Connect bilge pumps to the two elbows with appropriate sized hose and to the ship’s electrical system with automatic switches. As one bilge fills (for whatever reason) and the switch triggers the pump, the water will go from pump to the Tee, push the ball to the side sealing that direction and then go up the “down-leg” of the Tee, through the siphon break and then through the thru-hull and overboard.
In this way you don’t need a manual three-way (where the pump operation can’t be automatic).
The valve design can be improved by using two stopper-balls. They have to be correctly sized so the discharge will flow past the stopper-ball that is to the active side and still seal the inactive side. Then when the switch turns the pump off and the siphon break opens the discharge that remains in the discharge line will seal both stopper-balls to the left and right and the bilge area won’t be “re-filled” with the discharge.
You can accomplish that last by putting a one-way valve just where the discharge line exits the bilge pump. The problem with that is the weight of all that discharge in the discharge line might be enough to prevent the pump from pushing the “door” in the one-way open.
It’s sort of like the starting amps requirement of a motor vs. the run amps requirement. If your electrical service is insufficient to meet the start amp requirement the motor won’t start without a nudge even though it might run with no problem.
There is a potential for marine growth to occur in the Tee fitting. Especially with the two stopper-ball configuration as the interior of the Tee is always wet with water. This is mitigated by occasionally running the pumps individually or together for some few minutes. The tumbling action of the stopper-balls in the Tee will knock off any accumulation of marine growth.
Theoretically you could have as many bilge areas as you want plumbed to one multi forked “Tee” as long as you have the correct number of stopper-balls and room between them for the discharge to flow.
On my sailboat I made one of these out of bronze fittings with two copper stopper-balls each made from two copper hemispheres soldered together. One is connected to a bilge area where water from the shower and sink in the forward head collect. Because that shower gets used almost daily when I am aboard the valve has water flowing through it a lot. It has never jammed (open or closed) in almost 20 years of use.
At the time I came up with this I was young, impressionable and easily misled. I described it to a ship captain for whom I worked and had a lot of regard. I asked him what he thought. After a couple minutes reflection he said, “Too many moving parts.”
This is the first time I have described the automatic three-way valve with one (two if you use the configuration that stops the discharge at the Tee) moving part and requires no electrical connection.
Too many moving parts… pshaaaw!
I am sure this valve has applications elsewhere beside my sailboat. And probably, Robert, you could, likely, make 3D printer layouts so the valve body could be made easily and much cheaper than the bronze fittings I used. Although I never thought of using PVC and a ping-ping ball. But being that the thru-hull in my boat is below the waterline, bronze is the appropriate material.
I hope you like my design. I have never seen a valve like this used on any vessel.
A basic switch for a fluid powered logic gate ?
How would you actuate it?
haha, great vid but your costs seem to be based in the same era as your jacket...25p!! Can i borrow your Tardis?
u say 3/4
daer robert 40mm is 1.5"
That nomial size is referred to as 3/4" pipe size. The size is determined by the ID of a particular wall thickness pipe. Schedule 80 I believe, but I might be off on the particular schedule number.
@@Vibe77Guy i think you may be mistaken my friend.
@@garygranato9164
Correct. Must be a 1" coupler. Which has a 42.16mm OD.
However, since a ping pong ball is itself 40mm, it has to be a 1-1/4" coupler.
Robert is confusing old waste sizes with old copper sizes. It’s an age thing lol. I knew what he meant right away……
@@Vibe77Guy lol, your joking right ? are you from america ?
:)
Second 😂
This idea or using easily available parts is ridiculous! There should be at least one ridiculous part that fails regularly and is difficult to get out of the valve and very expensive to replace. Not as expensive as a new valve but so expensive that it makes getting a new valve a consideration. You know, like car part spares.
First
That's really ridiculously cheep to build😎👍 well done Rob. Do you know what would be More ridiculous to build🤔? a Tesla valve😁that would be outrageously ridiculous if there would be a really cheap and simple method available 😏