These machines only have one purpose, to entertain people, they want to do that really bad, everything in it was designed to do that. If you help them a little bit most of the machine will cooperate :) Thanks for watching Neil!
Lighten up a little bit Mark that's the type of worrying about minor things that makes people have heart attacks... if I would have left the splatter things would have been alright, maybe somebody else would have cleaned it off down the road. Thanks for watching!!!
Turned out fantastic! I hate you Ronnie for making it look so easy! Don't know how you match those colours so well. Awesome job can't wait for the game play! Keep up the great videos, you da man!
Your touchups are a lot better than some of the so called professional restorers do. Considering you use a brush, you get a pretty amazing finish. You are absolutely right about colour defininition. Most peoples eyes are more sensitive in the lower end (red end) of the spectrum, and once you get to the top end, the violets etc, it is harder to define the colour differences. The longer wavelengths of the reds seem easier for our eyes to define. This is really looking nice now it is cleaned up. It's a "clean machine" now :)
Thank you Brendan that's very nice of you to say. I took some art classes back in the day but I wasn't really very good at anything, I did however learn a few basics like for instance that your eye sees colors differently depending on where it is on the spectrum like you said, and how a color wheel kind of works. Thanks for watching man we'll troubleshoot this sucker Thursday!
Nice job cleaning it up! You're right -- it really doesn't need to be repainted. It's nice as-is. And it's probably deteriorated too much anyway. Kind of like those classic cars they keep with original paint jobs that have "patina," too. Oh, this is an antique.
I think it's good that you are showing much of the same types of things on different machines. By teaching it helps keep you from missing steps. I learn something with every video. Thanks again
Brilliant job as always. I love it when you film the actual process after you have explained what needs to be done. A little editing like cutting out the static shots would be perfect, but but I prefer as it is than jumping from explanation to job done.
I'm just 1 person, everytime I do that it exponentially increases the time it takes me to film and edit, i'm sorry all the videos where I don't take enough time to do that disappoint you, you may want to check out a channel where they have a better ability to film hours and hours of material then edit it down more to how you prefer it, thanks
@@LyonsArcade I didn't mean to offend you or your efforts in any way Ronnie. I love your videos and I appreciate all the time and effort you put in to them. It was just a personal observation. I create a bit of content myself but only a video every month or so, so I appreciate how long it takes. You keep on doing you and keep knocking out these class videos.
Love the time lapse of the playfield. You should do more of those when you're working on the machines :-) Its great to see what you are doing even if there isn't any voice over narrating it. “Perfect is the enemy of good”
26:39 To avoid wiggly edges on straight lines (i.e. between the red and white lines) put a piece of paper over the top to act as a mask. This is equivalent to using painters tape but quicker and easier. Prepare by cutting some strips of paper. Take one piece and locate the paper over the top of the red line exactly and hold it there while applying the white paint and the red and white line will be perfectly straight. Throw that piece of paper away and get a clean piece of paper and hold it on the next white line below, then paint the red line. Throw that piece of paper away and repeat again with the white line. By starting at the top and painting the line colors alternatively you don't need to let the paint dry and you can do the whole thing in one sitting. I used this same technique while painting some wooden straight areas on my house roof recently using a 2" brush with thick oil paint and the lines were perfectly straight and I didn't mess up the other areas that were a lighter paint color. Just remember the paper is use-once only. When the piece of paper is full of paint, discard it and use a clean piece of paper on the next area. You'll be surprised just how easy it is and how professional the result looks.
I've had good results painting straight lines by using a razor blade, or a sharp putty knife as a straight edge. No tape that can pull off old paint. An eraser shield also works too, but works better for airbrushing. (As usual great video!)
Wow, that turned out really nice. As usual. You really have the touch with arcade machines. Thanks for uploading. These are the best break from a crazy day.
Nice job as always, Ron. I can still see the fine cracks on the playfield (which is a good thing! Gives it some character!), but unless I knew exactly where to look, I wouldn't be able to tell the difference where you blended the colors.
Thank you SpearM I appreciate it!!! I thought it turned out pretty good, I love these games with old school line art on them. Very cool looking machine I think!
Great restoration vid as always Ron on a machine my age lol. Doing the same job right now and got some of those erasers from Dollar Tree. 3 for a buck. Everything will be clearcoated by hand and sanded down to polish
"The enemy of good is better" maybe that is the saying. There is also a saying "The enemy of progress is perfection" You know I love the old EMs. I'm enjoying this one.
Try methylated spirt and water 50/50 mix, it cleans a lot better than isopropyl for removing 'dirt and old grime', that said I've not used it with a magic eraser but with a cloth it's better than iso. Do however stick with the iso for glue sticky, oils, or stains.
I'm all in and subscribed, I really appreciate your videos. I've messed with old arcade cabinets and arcade sticks over the years, and your channel is such a neat look into the restoration and trouble shooting process. Looking forward to more content, have a great week!
Great video man! I've learned a lot from your channel so thanks for sharing. Picked up my 1st pin earlier this year. It's a Bally Big Show. 2 player version of this one. Mine had cupped inserts. They were really bad and affected gameplay terribly. Noticed in certain shots this one has some too. I was able to figure out how to remove them, sand them flat, and reinstall. Have you guys ever shown that process in a video? Might be a good idea for a future vid. Thanks again!!
Honestly can't see where you even painted the red and white stripes on that top pop-bumper :P I was watching and reading at the same time, so started seeing you do it, then missed a few seconds, then came back and was like 'Now where did you do it!?' :) Great job as always. Personally I suck at anything dealing with painting, I just can't keep inside the lines. In my mind, it isn't that I can't stay inside the lines, it is that the lines are in the wrong damned places :P
Love the video. Just had a question about the clear coat. You cleaned the existing surface with the mag is eraser, so wouldn't any existing wax be gone? If so wouldn't it be a good idea to clear coat the whole surface to stabilize the paint before waxing? Or is it not worth the trouble of making everything etc. for what you get in return?
Yes you're pretty much removing all the wax if you hit it with the magic eraser, but you may have some left here or there. You can definitely clear the whole thing if you want, the main reason we're clearing any of it is to just protect any paint we added (since it's acrylic and will just wash off)... so the rest doesn't necessarily need the clear, although it wouldn't hurt anything. The only danger is if there is any wax or oils or anything on any of the playfield when you paint it with the clear it will bubble up and get 'fisheyes' all over the place. I've heard you can wipe it down with naphtha but I've also heard that's lighter fluid (????) so maybe that's not correct either. I did clear an entire playfield once but since I'm doing it with a spray can you don't get it all perfectly flat, it's not the most professional way to do it, but if you're just looking to get it protected you can do it. The guys that do it top line spray it with automotive clear coat, then sand it flat and respray it two or three times, to get it nice and flat. Lot of work! We're basically just touching up some paint then spraying just that area, quickly, to keep it from degrading when you clean it. If you extensively clean it with the M.E. and then are pretty sure you have all the wax off, sure you could spray the whole thing. Thanks for watching Mike!
@@LyonsArcade naphtha is lighter fluid, but flashes off very quickly. It does a good job of cleaning off any oil and wax from the wood. Just use it in a well ventilated area, away from any flames.
Great work on this one. This game is as old as me. :D Would a wide paint scraper make it easier and faster to get those straight lines? In my mind it sounds logical. Just throwing it out there.
The reason I don't usually use anything is because you have to wait for the paint to dry before you touch it with anything, I did this a lot quicker.... so for instance you could repaint all the white, and then wait for it to dry, and then use the paint scraper you're mentioning to lay on the dried white and paint the red in, etc. it just takes a little longer. Tape doesn't really work unless you clear one of the colors first, I did this by hand in about an hour or so...
They all get that same look, I don't know what makes them do that. sometimes it's like a red ochre color! Often, actually. Like half of them. Not sure what that is!
Thanks for another great video Ronnie. When I was just a lad in the early 80's, I worked on a fair ground over here in Wales UK. I remember a new arcade game came out and there was a queue to play it every day, it was called "Dragons Lair." I loved that game and wondered if you have come across it or, worked on one. I seem to remember it was one of the first to use laser disc.
Thanks Gary! I haven't filmed a Dragon's Lair, but I did film a Dragon's Lair II, check it out! Thanks for watching - th-cam.com/video/3rCKFynm4h8/w-d-xo.html
I would have to say that I DON'T disagree, you did a great job. Especially those touch-ups. What did you use to clean off the magic eraser residue off?
Isopropyl alcohol. It's used for disinfectant (they had huge runs on it last year and it was impossible to find in stores for MONTHS) and to clean off PCB's. I had a ton of rosin build-up on a PCB (for a console arcade joystick) I soldered wiring to a decade ago. I desoldered all the wiring because A) it was the wrong kind, solid core instead of flexible wire; and B) it LOOKED LIKE CRAP! Isopropyl alcohol square swabs make quick work of the rosin residue from your solder. Oh, and the PCB is a lot more organized now and it's easier to know which directional wire pairs goes to which button in my joystick controller! Good chemical and the nice part about being alcohol-based is that it dries out on its own.
Have you never heard of Isopropyl alcohol, or are you just mocking my accent? I talk like that because my Mother talked like that, she's the one who taught me how to speak.
@@LyonsArcade Yes, I've heard of 'IsoproPyl' but not 'IsoproFyl'. I'm not mocking your accent...Hell, I'm from Tennersee, I mean Tennessee...over here in the holler. Just heard something humorous I thought. Just like when you sang 'Shout it out loud' on the KISS pinball machine or when you almost got your finger smacked on that pop bumper. It wasn't meant to offend. It just made me laugh is all
Great video, thanks Ronnie!! Does the magic eraser remove the wax so you can clear coat that whole area on top? Do the pop bumpers not come off or is it easier to just leave them in place?
Yes the Magic Eraser generally removes the wax and leaves the surface pretty plain where it can be cleared. You can take the pops off it just takes longer (you have to desolder the lamp in the pop bumper and remove the coil bracket underneath)
Oh, say, do you happen to have an extra set of Bally Chimes that I can buy? The Capt. Fantastic that I'm working on has the Wico board in it. I HAVE to get that out of there. :)
Hey Ronnie! Do you use the Magic Eraser on the plastic inserts as well? Also, how do you fix a divot (and insert) in the playfield caused by an insert that collapsed into its hole?
Yes I use the Magic Eraser on everything but don't go crazy with it.... fixing the inserts is very tough, you can't put new ones in easily... when they put them in at the factory they were too tall, then they sanded the entire playfield flat, THEN silkscreened it. So it's very hard to replace one because A. they're too big and B. they have artwork over them (even if it's just a ring).... If you heat the insert up you may be able to get it out, or if it's loose enough it may come out on it's own. You can then fill the divot with wood putty or bondo and the glue the insert back in as level as possible with the top, then repaint everything. It's a common problem to have cups in the inserts, that can be fixed too by dripping super glue believe it or not in the insert (it'll level itself and fill the cup) but I never do it because it's a lot of work and easy to make a huge mess. I just leave them cupped and enjoy the machine, I personally don't care if the cupped inserts make the ball trajectory change a little bit sometimes.
Beautiful work as always, have you ever done a full playfield replacement? Looks like it would be a ton of work doing so but I've seen a few collectors who have done it.
Nice job, did the manual save the wires for once? i mean they had something that was easier to get then the wires so they were saved? If so... i would recommend to take out the manual and just put a stack of papers in the machine :P
the clay bar might be too.. aggressive.. not quite the right word. the clay is dense and may damage or remove too much of the cracked paint even with a nice lube. remember the finish on a car is smooth like glass. good thought though!
Good morning Joe. I don't know if you seen my last question so I will ask again, being I am the first poster. What is the size and weight of a pinball. and do different pinball games use different sizes of pinball's?
I responded to your last question I thought, i'm not sure what the weight is but it's just a steel ball bearing that 1 1/16" large, and you can see all the different ones at www.pbresource.com/Balls.html almost all pinball machines use the same size but a few here and there use different sizes....
Standard balls, as Joe said, are 1 1/16" (about 27 mm) and 2 7/8 ounces (80 grams). A few pinball machines use non-standard balls; for example, Gottlieb's _Strikes & Spares_ uses larger 1 1/14" balls, and a few electromechanical pinball machines from the 60s use smaller 1" balls. Pitch & bat (baseball) games often use 7/8" balls. A tube of 5 standard steel balls sells for about $14 plus shipping and handling. Make sure you order from a reputable vendor; inexperienced vendors might not be aware of the proper way to handle your balls. Most balls are made of carbon steel or chromium steel. When buying balls, don't be taken in by those claims of "special balls"... the extra-shiny balls sold by some vendors have just been run through a commercial polisher for a few weeks. You can achieve the same effect by putting your balls in a cheap rotary tumbler that costs about $60. A vibratory tumbler works too, but your balls get a better finish in a rotary tumbler. Replacing your old balls is the best defense against playfield wear. Make sure you buy quality balls, and since you can't wax your balls, make sure you wax the playfield instead. (I'm so sorry for all the ball jokes. I just couldn't resist.)
Hi Ron! The playfield turned out great (I've come to expect nothing less from you... :-) ), but I do have a question; What was done with that ball return trough? As damaged as the original pinball was, I can't imagine exposing a new pinball to the the environment that likely caused (or at least contributed to) it's condition. Was it replaced? Cleaned (and if so, how)? Is this covered in a video we have yet to see? Or am I just overreacting?
hey my man i got a question. have you seen a super mario bros 3 arcade cabinet? i seen one when i was just a little boy in 1st grade in a game store years ago and i cant seem to find it. if you see one or already have could you do a video on that?
They released it on the Nintendo Playchoice system back in the day, before it came out for the Nintendo it was on that arcade cabinet for a few weeks to get everybody excited to buy it. We did a video showing it awhile back if you want to see it: th-cam.com/video/Lq9fGqe19Tk/w-d-xo.html
@Mr Guru but I'd like to play it old school. Like pacman fever, gotta pocket full of quarters headed to the arcade type.not many old school feeling like before I mean. Sure PC is faster and free to play, but I'd prefer 25 cent play arcade anytime when it's in sight lol.
@@LyonsArcade YOU DIDNT HAVE TO BE AN ASS ABOUT IT I MEARLY GAVE YOU A TID BIT FOR YOUR TINY LIL BRAIN... BY THE WAY YOUR WELCOME😂😂😂 AND I AM NOT YELLING I JUST LOVE TO ANNOY PEOPLE BECAUSE THEY THINK THEY CAN HEAR TEXT😂😂😂😂🤣
loved watching that playfield disassembly and reassembly
Thanks Adam, glad you enjoyed it!
Reminds me of my early body shop days hand painting stripes on cars. Fun.
I never was good with pinstripes!
Excellent work Ron. ... the art of making it seem like you were never there.
Thank you Mark
Excellent job! She’s looking fit for another decade or two of pin ball fun.
I was happy to work on one I hadn't seen in awhile (I looked through my records and I had another Circus many years ago)
You art skills are amazing.
That's very nice of you to say DrJman
I’d swear that Happy looks happier after getting some attention.
Another great job, Ron. 👍
These machines only have one purpose, to entertain people, they want to do that really bad, everything in it was designed to do that. If you help them a little bit most of the machine will cooperate :) Thanks for watching Neil!
Really looks amazing.
Thanks Chris, i'm glad you enjoyed the video!
love you guys. miss living near you and shopping at your store. :(
Thanks linkel dinkle, come on back now, you heah?
I love what you did with the pinball machine it look good
Thank you Donald, we appreciate it man!
it is just fantastic
Thanks Meindert!
Awesome job sir.
A very nice clean and paint job Ron... 10/10
Thank you Dero glad you enjoyed it!
You do a great job on the pinball machines Ronnie
Thank you sir!
Looks great
Thanks Vic we appreciate you watching!
What a beauty , to me old school EM is better than new .
Once again, awesome work Ron.. came out a lot better than even I expected....😉
Thanks Izzynutz, I appreciate you watching!
Thank you for cleaning off that splatter on the instructions panel, it was driving me nuts!
Lighten up a little bit Mark that's the type of worrying about minor things that makes people have heart attacks... if I would have left the splatter things would have been alright, maybe somebody else would have cleaned it off down the road. Thanks for watching!!!
Now that is a big difference on that playfield, great job done 😎👍
Hey, greetings from Germany! It's now 18:30 here. Nice to have a fresh Video after work ! Thank you!
Thank you for watching Samplesmasher! We love our German fans!!!
Looks really nice for the age. Looks better than me for my age. :)
It hasn't been used in awhile, you've probably been used the whole time!!!! Thanks for watching Timit, we appreciate it!
@@LyonsArcade th-cam.com/video/po24hE2HGds/w-d-xo.html
Looking nice.
Thank you Me my opinion Sche!
Great Job Ron
Thank you Patrick, we appreciate you watching man!
Turned out fantastic! I hate you Ronnie for making it look so easy! Don't know how you match those colours so well. Awesome job can't wait for the game play!
Keep up the great videos, you da man!
We have to troubleshoot it first, see you on Thursday :)
Play field looks great. I will bet some of those bulbs have not worked in a long time.
It's good to get them going again :) Thanks for watching Mr E!
Your touchups are a lot better than some of the so called professional restorers do. Considering you use a brush, you get a pretty amazing finish.
You are absolutely right about colour defininition. Most peoples eyes are more sensitive in the lower end (red end) of the spectrum, and once you get to the top end, the violets etc, it is harder to define the colour differences. The longer wavelengths of the reds seem easier for our eyes to define.
This is really looking nice now it is cleaned up. It's a "clean machine" now :)
Thank you Brendan that's very nice of you to say. I took some art classes back in the day but I wasn't really very good at anything, I did however learn a few basics like for instance that your eye sees colors differently depending on where it is on the spectrum like you said, and how a color wheel kind of works. Thanks for watching man we'll troubleshoot this sucker Thursday!
you have done a great job on that pinball machine love watching your videos
Thank you John, glad you enjoyed it!!!
Nice clean up as always you guys get these things looking fantastic. Great video thanks for sharing have a great week
Thanks Mac, we appreciate you hanging out with us man.
Awesome job Ron looks really good.
Great job, looks like new!
Thanks you Charles, we appreciate it!
So THATS what Ron looks like!
I'm like half Clint Eastwood, but more towards the Elvis end.
@@LyonsArcadeI was thinking more pinball clown
Teddy is one of those thousands of dedicated very appreciative followers and hopes to one day visit you at the shop..maybe even be your mascot?
Come on down Teddy
Wow! That cleaning really made the play field POP!!
Absolutely amazing what can be done with electromechanical controls.
👍 nice job.
I have this game nice to see another one in play.
awesome job, perfect colormatch!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
We tried our best! Thanks for watching Erwin!
Nice job cleaning it up!
You're right -- it really doesn't need to be repainted. It's nice as-is.
And it's probably deteriorated too much anyway.
Kind of like those classic cars they keep with original paint jobs that have "patina," too.
Oh, this is an antique.
It should look old in my opinion :) Thanks for watching AvengerII!
Second to schematic videos; playfield restoration is some of my favorite content. Another great video.
Glad you enjoyed it Jason!!!
The Enemy of Good is Perfect. :-)
Thanks you tube algorithm for bringing me, even if late!
Thanks for watching Russell!
WoW that turned out fantsatic. Cant wait for the next video Ron.
Thanks Simon, we'll play it next time!
I think it's good that you are showing much of the same types of things on different machines. By teaching it helps keep you from missing steps. I learn something with every video. Thanks again
Brilliant job as always. I love it when you film the actual process after you have explained what needs to be done. A little editing like cutting out the static shots would be perfect, but but I prefer as it is than jumping from explanation to job done.
I'm just 1 person, everytime I do that it exponentially increases the time it takes me to film and edit, i'm sorry all the videos where I don't take enough time to do that disappoint you, you may want to check out a channel where they have a better ability to film hours and hours of material then edit it down more to how you prefer it, thanks
@@LyonsArcade I didn't mean to offend you or your efforts in any way Ronnie. I love your videos and I appreciate all the time and effort you put in to them. It was just a personal observation. I create a bit of content myself but only a video every month or so, so I appreciate how long it takes. You keep on doing you and keep knocking out these class videos.
Another great job Ronnie, always soothing to watch you make 'em look great.
We try, thanks for watching!
"Perfect is the enemy of good"
That's it, thank you !
Looks great. I repair watches and clocks for a living. Restoration is a balance of how much to do.
Love the time lapse of the playfield. You should do more of those when you're working on the machines :-) Its great to see what you are doing even if there isn't any voice over narrating it. “Perfect is the enemy of good”
It just takes too long to do
@@LyonsArcade I understand. I appreciate all of the time you spend filming these repair videos.
Its already come such a long way. It a really nice piece from back in the day. I wish I had my own pinball machine.
26:39 To avoid wiggly edges on straight lines (i.e. between the red and white lines) put a piece of paper over the top to act as a mask. This is equivalent to using painters tape but quicker and easier. Prepare by cutting some strips of paper. Take one piece and locate the paper over the top of the red line exactly and hold it there while applying the white paint and the red and white line will be perfectly straight. Throw that piece of paper away and get a clean piece of paper and hold it on the next white line below, then paint the red line. Throw that piece of paper away and repeat again with the white line. By starting at the top and painting the line colors alternatively you don't need to let the paint dry and you can do the whole thing in one sitting. I used this same technique while painting some wooden straight areas on my house roof recently using a 2" brush with thick oil paint and the lines were perfectly straight and I didn't mess up the other areas that were a lighter paint color. Just remember the paper is use-once only. When the piece of paper is full of paint, discard it and use a clean piece of paper on the next area. You'll be surprised just how easy it is and how professional the result looks.
Thanks John i'll try harder
I've had good results painting straight lines by using a razor blade, or a sharp putty knife as a straight edge. No tape that can pull off old paint. An eraser shield also works too, but works better for airbrushing.
(As usual great video!)
I agree you would have done a better job, where were you the night I painted this? Thanks for watching Paul
@@LyonsArcade I wouldn't say that at all. I suck at hand painting. That's why I need all the help I can get!
Wow, that turned out really nice. As usual. You really have the touch with arcade machines. Thanks for uploading. These are the best break from a crazy day.
Thanks Matt, we appreciate you hanging out with us!
That looks awesome Ronnie! Great video. Those magic abrasive erasers work great.
Yeah you just have to go light on it though!
Nice job as always, Ron. I can still see the fine cracks on the playfield (which is a good thing! Gives it some character!), but unless I knew exactly where to look, I wouldn't be able to tell the difference where you blended the colors.
Thank you SpearM I appreciate it!!! I thought it turned out pretty good, I love these games with old school line art on them. Very cool looking machine I think!
Looking REALLY good! Can't wait to see the finished machine.
Groovy music! Tappin' my feet, sippin' some chardonnay. Gotta keep the nose red until this wonderful restore is completed.
I like seeing the timelapse stuff. Its always slow going tearing this sort of thing apart.
Yeah we've got to speed it up it takes forever! Thanks for watching viscountalpha!!!!
Excellent
Hi! I recently found your channel and I like what I see :) Nice work, keep it up!
Great restoration vid as always Ron on a machine my age lol. Doing the same job right now and got some of those erasers from Dollar Tree. 3 for a buck. Everything will be clearcoated by hand and sanded down to polish
"The enemy of good is better" maybe that is the saying. There is also a saying "The enemy of progress is perfection" You know I love the old EMs. I'm enjoying this one.
Try methylated spirt and water 50/50 mix, it cleans a lot better than isopropyl for removing 'dirt and old grime', that said I've not used it with a magic eraser but with a cloth it's better than iso.
Do however stick with the iso for glue sticky, oils, or stains.
Looks great as usual :)
I'm all in and subscribed, I really appreciate your videos. I've messed with old arcade cabinets and arcade sticks over the years, and your channel is such a neat look into the restoration and trouble shooting process. Looking forward to more content, have a great week!
Thanks TheMenefee! Glad to have you watching!
perfect is the enemy of good
Also heard it said perfect is the enemy of done.
Thank you Southern Fried Circuits, that's it!
the pinball machine is old as my house cool
It's pretty cool , I love it!
Great video man! I've learned a lot from your channel so thanks for sharing. Picked up my 1st pin earlier this year. It's a Bally Big Show. 2 player version of this one. Mine had cupped inserts. They were really bad and affected gameplay terribly. Noticed in certain shots this one has some too. I was able to figure out how to remove them, sand them flat, and reinstall. Have you guys ever shown that process in a video? Might be a good idea for a future vid. Thanks again!!
We never do it, it just takes too long, too much work. Thanks for watching 77ShadeTree77!
Perfect video cause I'm doing a Halloween clown theme this year.
That's a really cool looking Pin!
Thanks for watching SillySausage72!!
@@LyonsArcade You got it brother! 👍
Honestly can't see where you even painted the red and white stripes on that top pop-bumper :P
I was watching and reading at the same time, so started seeing you do it, then missed a few seconds, then came back and was like 'Now where did you do it!?' :)
Great job as always. Personally I suck at anything dealing with painting, I just can't keep inside the lines. In my mind, it isn't that I can't stay inside the lines, it is that the lines are in the wrong damned places :P
There's no mistakes Ray just happy Accidents hahaha
Love the video. Just had a question about the clear coat. You cleaned the existing surface with the mag is eraser, so wouldn't any existing wax be gone? If so wouldn't it be a good idea to clear coat the whole surface to stabilize the paint before waxing? Or is it not worth the trouble of making everything etc. for what you get in return?
Mask not make
Yes you're pretty much removing all the wax if you hit it with the magic eraser, but you may have some left here or there. You can definitely clear the whole thing if you want, the main reason we're clearing any of it is to just protect any paint we added (since it's acrylic and will just wash off)... so the rest doesn't necessarily need the clear, although it wouldn't hurt anything.
The only danger is if there is any wax or oils or anything on any of the playfield when you paint it with the clear it will bubble up and get 'fisheyes' all over the place. I've heard you can wipe it down with naphtha but I've also heard that's lighter fluid (????) so maybe that's not correct either.
I did clear an entire playfield once but since I'm doing it with a spray can you don't get it all perfectly flat, it's not the most professional way to do it, but if you're just looking to get it protected you can do it. The guys that do it top line spray it with automotive clear coat, then sand it flat and respray it two or three times, to get it nice and flat. Lot of work!
We're basically just touching up some paint then spraying just that area, quickly, to keep it from degrading when you clean it. If you extensively clean it with the M.E. and then are pretty sure you have all the wax off, sure you could spray the whole thing.
Thanks for watching Mike!
@@LyonsArcade naphtha is lighter fluid, but flashes off very quickly. It does a good job of cleaning off any oil and wax from the wood. Just use it in a well ventilated area, away from any flames.
I can't believe you wasted money on a new ball! That old one would have cleaned up just fine with the magic eraser. 😁
If it was a multiball game I might have tried to reuse it hahaha Thanks for watching Marty!
Great work on this one. This game is as old as me. :D
Would a wide paint scraper make it easier and faster to get those straight lines?
In my mind it sounds logical. Just throwing it out there.
The reason I don't usually use anything is because you have to wait for the paint to dry before you touch it with anything, I did this a lot quicker.... so for instance you could repaint all the white, and then wait for it to dry, and then use the paint scraper you're mentioning to lay on the dried white and paint the red in, etc. it just takes a little longer. Tape doesn't really work unless you clear one of the colors first, I did this by hand in about an hour or so...
Yodel ay hee hoo
That upper right plastic protector was so dirty that I thought it was aluminum.
They all get that same look, I don't know what makes them do that. sometimes it's like a red ochre color! Often, actually. Like half of them. Not sure what that is!
Thanks for another great video Ronnie. When I was just a lad in the early 80's, I worked on a fair ground over here in Wales UK. I remember a new arcade game came out and there was a queue to play it every day, it was called "Dragons Lair." I loved that game and wondered if you have come across it or, worked on one. I seem to remember it was one of the first to use laser disc.
Thanks Gary! I haven't filmed a Dragon's Lair, but I did film a Dragon's Lair II, check it out! Thanks for watching - th-cam.com/video/3rCKFynm4h8/w-d-xo.html
I would have to say that I DON'T disagree, you did a great job. Especially those touch-ups. What did you use to clean off the magic eraser residue off?
I just use a wet paper towel.
I was born in '73. I feel like this old pinball machine looks. "You can see what 50 years can do to a machine..." Or a fella, lol.
Hey you're both still tickin'.... every day above the flowers is a good day as far as I'm concerned :)
@@LyonsArcade Looking forward to seeing it playable. Very cool, sir.
9:26 did you just say "isoprofal alcohol"?
Isopropyl alcohol. It's used for disinfectant (they had huge runs on it last year and it was impossible to find in stores for MONTHS) and to clean off PCB's. I had a ton of rosin build-up on a PCB (for a console arcade joystick) I soldered wiring to a decade ago. I desoldered all the wiring because A) it was the wrong kind, solid core instead of flexible wire; and B) it LOOKED LIKE CRAP!
Isopropyl alcohol square swabs make quick work of the rosin residue from your solder. Oh, and the PCB is a lot more organized now and it's easier to know which directional wire pairs goes to which button in my joystick controller!
Good chemical and the nice part about being alcohol-based is that it dries out on its own.
Have you never heard of Isopropyl alcohol, or are you just mocking my accent? I talk like that because my Mother talked like that, she's the one who taught me how to speak.
@@LyonsArcade Yes, I've heard of 'IsoproPyl' but not 'IsoproFyl'. I'm not mocking your accent...Hell, I'm from Tennersee, I mean Tennessee...over here in the holler. Just heard something humorous I thought. Just like when you sang 'Shout it out loud' on the KISS pinball machine or when you almost got your finger smacked on that pop bumper. It wasn't meant to offend. It just made me laugh is all
Did you use any particular wax on the play field?
Found on your website. lol
Great video, thanks Ronnie!! Does the magic eraser remove the wax so you can clear coat that whole area on top? Do the pop bumpers not come off or is it easier to just leave them in place?
Yes the Magic Eraser generally removes the wax and leaves the surface pretty plain where it can be cleared. You can take the pops off it just takes longer (you have to desolder the lamp in the pop bumper and remove the coil bracket underneath)
Oh, say, do you happen to have an extra set of Bally Chimes that I can buy? The Capt. Fantastic that I'm working on has the Wico board in it. I HAVE to get that out of there. :)
I don't unfortunately, they make brand new ones though, the whole thing that plugs in! I'm working on a Captain Fantastic... TODAY by the way.
@@LyonsArcade let me know if you need any tips LOL
Aka abrasive sponge 🧽 🙂
Sandpaper sponge lol
Hey Ronnie! Do you use the Magic Eraser on the plastic inserts as well? Also, how do you fix a divot (and insert) in the playfield caused by an insert that collapsed into its hole?
Yes I use the Magic Eraser on everything but don't go crazy with it.... fixing the inserts is very tough, you can't put new ones in easily... when they put them in at the factory they were too tall, then they sanded the entire playfield flat, THEN silkscreened it. So it's very hard to replace one because A. they're too big and B. they have artwork over them (even if it's just a ring)....
If you heat the insert up you may be able to get it out, or if it's loose enough it may come out on it's own. You can then fill the divot with wood putty or bondo and the glue the insert back in as level as possible with the top, then repaint everything. It's a common problem to have cups in the inserts, that can be fixed too by dripping super glue believe it or not in the insert (it'll level itself and fill the cup) but I never do it because it's a lot of work and easy to make a huge mess. I just leave them cupped and enjoy the machine, I personally don't care if the cupped inserts make the ball trajectory change a little bit sometimes.
The background music playing while you're painting, were you playing Williams or Bally chimes to create it ?
Beautiful work as always, have you ever done a full playfield replacement? Looks like it would be a ton of work doing so but I've seen a few collectors who have done it.
We've swapped a few but not with new ones. th-cam.com/video/87qpg_4HusI/w-d-xo.html
@@LyonsArcade Oh neat, thanks! I hadn't discovered you in 2017.
Did you ever replace that old rusty out pinball
We did, we'll talk more about it on the next video Clark!
Nice job, did the manual save the wires for once? i mean they had something that was easier to get then the wires so they were saved? If so... i would recommend to take out the manual and just put a stack of papers in the machine :P
What I usually do, is just put Rat food in them!
@@LyonsArcade or that :-)
Hey man, do you think a Clay bar like you do with auto paint? Use 409 for lube. Would work on the play field?
Likely, but I've never used one on a car so I'm not that familiar with them. It probably would though it's the same concept, it's just wood....
the clay bar might be too.. aggressive.. not quite the right word. the clay is dense and may damage or remove too much of the cracked paint even with a nice lube. remember the finish on a car is smooth like glass. good thought though!
Good morning Joe. I don't know if you seen my last question so I will ask again, being I am the first poster. What is the size and weight of a pinball. and do different pinball games use different sizes of pinball's?
I responded to your last question I thought, i'm not sure what the weight is but it's just a steel ball bearing that 1 1/16" large, and you can see all the different ones at www.pbresource.com/Balls.html almost all pinball machines use the same size but a few here and there use different sizes....
Standard balls, as Joe said, are 1 1/16" (about 27 mm) and 2 7/8 ounces (80 grams). A few pinball machines use non-standard balls; for example, Gottlieb's _Strikes & Spares_ uses larger 1 1/14" balls, and a few electromechanical pinball machines from the 60s use smaller 1" balls. Pitch & bat (baseball) games often use 7/8" balls. A tube of 5 standard steel balls sells for about $14 plus shipping and handling. Make sure you order from a reputable vendor; inexperienced vendors might not be aware of the proper way to handle your balls.
Most balls are made of carbon steel or chromium steel. When buying balls, don't be taken in by those claims of "special balls"... the extra-shiny balls sold by some vendors have just been run through a commercial polisher for a few weeks. You can achieve the same effect by putting your balls in a cheap rotary tumbler that costs about $60. A vibratory tumbler works too, but your balls get a better finish in a rotary tumbler. Replacing your old balls is the best defense against playfield wear. Make sure you buy quality balls, and since you can't wax your balls, make sure you wax the playfield instead.
(I'm so sorry for all the ball jokes. I just couldn't resist.)
@@SpearM3064 dude, your nuts.
Hey Ron, can you recommend a good site to purchase electronic components from? Love your videos.
Didn't look terrible until you took those parts off revealing the blue color it was suppose to be. Hey, at least you have reference colors now.
Hi Ron!
The playfield turned out great (I've come to expect nothing less from you... :-) ), but I do have a question; What was done with that ball return trough? As damaged as the original pinball was, I can't imagine exposing a new pinball to the the environment that likely caused (or at least contributed to) it's condition. Was it replaced? Cleaned (and if so, how)? Is this covered in a video we have yet to see? Or am I just overreacting?
We'll show that on Thursday's video
As interesting as it's been, I can't wait for that damn clown to go away! I need to get some sleep again.
Omglol I noticed today that the fake gun that the one clown has on the playfield, says "Bally" instead of "BANG"🤣
hey my man i got a question.
have you seen a super mario bros 3 arcade cabinet? i seen one when i was just a little boy in 1st grade in a game store years ago and i cant seem to find it. if you see one or already have could you do a video on that?
They released it on the Nintendo Playchoice system back in the day, before it came out for the Nintendo it was on that arcade cabinet for a few weeks to get everybody excited to buy it. We did a video showing it awhile back if you want to see it: th-cam.com/video/Lq9fGqe19Tk/w-d-xo.html
@@LyonsArcade just watched the video. its been years since i seen one of those. i never played on it though. but its great to see one again.
@Mr Guru but I'd like to play it old school. Like pacman fever, gotta pocket full of quarters headed to the arcade type.not many old school feeling like before I mean. Sure PC is faster and free to play, but I'd prefer 25 cent play arcade anytime when it's in sight lol.
@Mr Guru like finding a soda machine and claw machine
@Mr Guru that didnt come in mind till you said it man
Maybe a rat peed on the pinball, I don't know else a chrome ball would get that way.
Yes. Cat pee will RUIN car keys and most metal within hours. I've found that out the hard way
WHY DIDN'T YOU USE THAT BLUE PAINTERS TAPE ON THE RED AND WHITE LINES THEY WOULD HAVE COME OUT PERFECT?
Because you weren't here Charles, just think if you would have been here it would have been so much nicer! Thanks for watching!
@@LyonsArcade YOU DIDNT HAVE TO BE AN ASS ABOUT IT I MEARLY GAVE YOU A TID BIT FOR YOUR TINY LIL BRAIN... BY THE WAY YOUR WELCOME😂😂😂 AND I AM NOT YELLING I JUST LOVE TO ANNOY PEOPLE BECAUSE THEY THINK THEY CAN HEAR TEXT😂😂😂😂🤣
Hey Ron don't rub that clowns face to hard, his make up will rub off lol.
hahaha that's a good point, lol
Great Work ! I hope that as all artists do, you signed or initialed the playfield in a discreet place to immortalize your talent :)
If I pay you to touch up artwork on something I own and you sign my property. YOU ain't getting paid.
I'm not quite at autograph level yet, haha