The closer you have the support to the work, makes it cut better, and the smaller the cut the easier it is, and sharper the tool the better it works, handy, looks reasonable condition thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
Hi Pete, the steadyrest (the item you rest the tools on) needs to be on the other side of the machine, so the wood turns downward toward the floor and that will keep the tool on the steadyrest.. You are correct that the steadyrest should be as close as possible to the wood turning.
Well... I was laughing, cringing and in tears watching this video. So many emotions I think I better make an appointment with my therapist on Monday. Here are some hints: 1) Get yourself a face shield from Bunnings or Mitre10. When you do get the lathe going properly, that bit of wood may jump out and cause some body or head damage. Trust me, I have seen it many times in our woodturners club (even with experienced woodturners). And, I have had a piece hit me in the face shield once. 2) You need to turn the lathe around. The headstock (the motor end) should be on your left. The wood should be spinning downwards on your side, not upwards. 3) When the lathe has been turned around, the tool rest (the metal thing you were bashing in with a hammer) will be on the other side of the wood. Bring it back so that it is between you and the spinning wood. 4) You need to free up the tailstock screw (the big thread that you said was seized, probably is. Or, that locking screw on top was tight and stopping it moving). When the wood stopped spinning, that means that there is not enough pressure from the tailstock holding it in. If you don't have enough pressure, the piece of wood could come out and go anywhere. 5) The tools are designed for different purposes. All I can say here is that it is best to watch some videos on how to use the tools. They can bite in if not used properly and that can lead to a number of not good things happening. E.g. the tool can get pulled out of your hand and end up somewhere you don't want it, it could break your wood, the entire piece of wood could come out of the lathe. 6) That motor may be mounted on some kind of shaft so that the motor can slide across when you change to different pulleys. Have a look if that is the case. 7) Have you got any friends who are woodturners? If so, get them round to check out the lathe and show you how to use it. You could make something cool, then have some beers to celebrate...
Mate, when I'm down in the dumps I always watch Pete's Tools to bring up my spirits -- better than BEER! Well, pretty close I'd say. You should be proud your videos likely make every viewer smile! @@petestools
What a find Pete! One of the first power tools I got to use in high school wood shop was a wood lathe. Not too dangerous, but a few safety precautions are in order. Too much to talk about here but I suggest you go to some educational videos on TH-cam. there's a thousand guys out there waiting to give you instructions. Keep at it and have fun!
Move the spool on the motor to line up with whatever gear you're using. There will be a grub scrw in it. Next, sparpen the gouges (the hand tools used for latheworking). Keep the toolrest as close to the wood as possible and very slightly lower than centre. Make sure all of the clamps and bolts are nipped up nice and tight. With the sharpened tool, very gingerly move the gouge close to the wood....until is just kisses it. Hold the gouges firmly with both hands. Have your dominant hand further back...and use it to guide the cut. Firstly thought.....give it all a bloody good clean up and lube.
First of all, you had it in reverse. It needs to be spinning toward you. And I know you know enough about tools to know that the only thing you can cut with a dull chisel is yourself. Put your rest toward the center of the piece your turning and also get it as close as possible without contact. Those 3 changes will make a remarkable difference, even if you’ve never done it before. Oh, and wouldn’t hurt to watch a couple of TH-cam’s on beginning wood turning. That’s what I do when I’m trying to use my plasma cutter…come watch you to see how it’s done! Good luck!
Faster is better for timber that small- and the tools need to be SHARP and clean lol- its obviously a bit of a homebrew cludge- but still could be quite a usable machine non the less with an overhaul... The various tools obviously have different jobs (the 'curved ones' are indeed for doing what you were doing- the 'knife' one is just that- for cutting off the finished turning- oh and you 'really' should have centered it better (draw a cross on each end from corner to corner, then centerpunch the crossing point...)- you roughly set the live end (the bit on the right in the video with the 'spinny center' then undo the threaded lock (T bar nut on top) that should then allow you to turn the wheel at the end you unscrewed and wind it in until both ends are seated firmly and then do up the locking nut on top again... (got a rather nice one here thats bit a bit more advanced- mechanical multispeed gearbox with electronic variable speed motor etc- but my first one was almost identical to that- a homebrew as well lol)
Looks like you would be better off using the blunt end of a hammer 😂😂 watch a few TH-cam videos on wood turning and flipin sharpen the chisels so at least there's one sharp tool in the shed 🤣🤣 Thanks for another great video Pete 👍
At least you're not out any cash. I hate that it didn't work out but at least it didn't cost you a bunch of money!!! Hopefully it just costed you an afternoon. Also, I'm sure most of the people that post turning videos have had years of practice, so it looks really easy, when in reality it isn't. At least until you've had years of practice!!@@petestools
I picked up a unit made in 1978 from a client moving into a care home. I use it occasionally. Anyway, it should be quieter. Definitely needs lubrication. You shouldn't have to resort to hammering to adjust it. Other than that, chisels need to be really sharp. Most important is a swear jar. You'll need it. The only thing that happens fast with a lathe is the f$%@ ups. Hence "occasional" use of mine. Please! Wear a face shield next time. I've seen wicked things happen with lathes. Cheers.
WTF.... Right. I'm not a wood machinist, but I have metal lathes. Firstly it looks like rotation is in the wrong direction. As you face the work, it should be turning anti clockwise. The tailstock has a morse taper revolving centre steady, it should move in and out via that handwheel. If it wont move, loosen that clamp handle and try again, oil it if necessary. That chisel rest is far to far away from the work. Finally the angle of the chisel should be about near the centre of the work piece. Mad as box of frogs.
The closer you have the support to the work, makes it cut better, and the smaller the cut the easier it is, and sharper the tool the better it works, handy, looks reasonable condition thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
cool thanks mate take care
Hi Pete, the steadyrest (the item you rest the tools on) needs to be on the other side of the machine, so the wood turns downward toward the floor and that will keep the tool on the steadyrest.. You are correct that the steadyrest should be as close as possible to the wood turning.
Thanks for the tips!
Well... I was laughing, cringing and in tears watching this video. So many emotions I think I better make an appointment with my therapist on Monday. Here are some hints:
1) Get yourself a face shield from Bunnings or Mitre10. When you do get the lathe going properly, that bit of wood may jump out and cause some body or head damage. Trust me, I have seen it many times in our woodturners club (even with experienced woodturners). And, I have had a piece hit me in the face shield once.
2) You need to turn the lathe around. The headstock (the motor end) should be on your left. The wood should be spinning downwards on your side, not upwards.
3) When the lathe has been turned around, the tool rest (the metal thing you were bashing in with a hammer) will be on the other side of the wood. Bring it back so that it is between you and the spinning wood.
4) You need to free up the tailstock screw (the big thread that you said was seized, probably is. Or, that locking screw on top was tight and stopping it moving). When the wood stopped spinning, that means that there is not enough pressure from the tailstock holding it in. If you don't have enough pressure, the piece of wood could come out and go anywhere.
5) The tools are designed for different purposes. All I can say here is that it is best to watch some videos on how to use the tools. They can bite in if not used properly and that can lead to a number of not good things happening. E.g. the tool can get pulled out of your hand and end up somewhere you don't want it, it could break your wood, the entire piece of wood could come out of the lathe.
6) That motor may be mounted on some kind of shaft so that the motor can slide across when you change to different pulleys. Have a look if that is the case.
7) Have you got any friends who are woodturners? If so, get them round to check out the lathe and show you how to use it. You could make something cool, then have some beers to celebrate...
I have decided i don't like working with wood . Because when you bugger it up you cant just stick a bit back on.
THANKS! That was really entertaining and hilarious! So GLAD you survived this, Pete!
Love your WELDING videos by the way - Happy 2024!
yea life is not to be taken to seriously mate. keep safe to you and yours.
Mate, when I'm down in the dumps I always watch Pete's Tools to bring up my spirits -- better than BEER! Well, pretty close I'd say. You should be proud your videos likely make every viewer smile! @@petestools
I love the editing!
Lol, that was funny.
Thanks for your videos Pete.
Gooday from Colorado
Yea it was fun .Thanks for watching from Colorado
What a find Pete! One of the first power tools I got to use in high school wood shop was a wood lathe. Not too dangerous, but a few safety precautions are in order. Too much to talk about here but I suggest you go to some educational videos on TH-cam. there's a thousand guys out there waiting to give you instructions. Keep at it and have fun!
I have decided i hate wood mate .To hard just to stick a bit back on.
Move the spool on the motor to line up with whatever gear you're using. There will be a grub scrw in it.
Next, sparpen the gouges (the hand tools used for latheworking).
Keep the toolrest as close to the wood as possible and very slightly lower than centre.
Make sure all of the clamps and bolts are nipped up nice and tight.
With the sharpened tool, very gingerly move the gouge close to the wood....until is just kisses it.
Hold the gouges firmly with both hands. Have your dominant hand further back...and use it to guide the cut.
Firstly thought.....give it all a bloody good clean up and lube.
I'm grateful for your comment and for taking the time to watch my video.
Pete
my lathe runs the other way wood spinning towards you not away. run the motor in reverse and you'll have much more fun
or move your tool rest to the other side of your wood and leave the motor as is
At least it was free . I don't think i am going to be a wood turner any time soon
First of all, you had it in reverse. It needs to be spinning toward you. And I know you know enough about tools to know that the only thing you can cut with a dull chisel is yourself. Put your rest toward the center of the piece your turning and also get it as close as possible without contact. Those 3 changes will make a remarkable difference, even if you’ve never done it before. Oh, and wouldn’t hurt to watch a couple of TH-cam’s on beginning wood turning. That’s what I do when I’m trying to use my plasma cutter…come watch you to see how it’s done! Good luck!
Na wood and me don't seem to mix
Your tool rest needs to be about a 1/4" from your work. Also does your work turn towards you from the top down?
Ta
Faster is better for timber that small- and the tools need to be SHARP and clean lol- its obviously a bit of a homebrew cludge- but still could be quite a usable machine non the less with an overhaul... The various tools obviously have different jobs (the 'curved ones' are indeed for doing what you were doing- the 'knife' one is just that- for cutting off the finished turning- oh and you 'really' should have centered it better (draw a cross on each end from corner to corner, then centerpunch the crossing point...)- you roughly set the live end (the bit on the right in the video with the 'spinny center' then undo the threaded lock (T bar nut on top) that should then allow you to turn the wheel at the end you unscrewed and wind it in until both ends are seated firmly and then do up the locking nut on top again... (got a rather nice one here thats bit a bit more advanced- mechanical multispeed gearbox with electronic variable speed motor etc- but my first one was almost identical to that- a homebrew as well lol)
I wonder why they didn't sharpen the tools before they chucked them out . No consideration .
you've got it spinning the wrong way. wood should rotate toward you so that the force from the wood against the tool is into the rest
all theses comments have my head spinning as well
Looks like you would be better off using the blunt end of a hammer 😂😂 watch a few TH-cam videos on wood turning and flipin sharpen the chisels so at least there's one sharp tool in the shed 🤣🤣
Thanks for another great video Pete 👍
wood sucks you cant weld it back together again when you cut it to short LOL
I've never turned wood before but I think taking the corner off of your workpiece might hep.
yea not my thing lol .But it was free
At least you're not out any cash. I hate that it didn't work out but at least it didn't cost you a bunch of money!!! Hopefully it just costed you an afternoon. Also, I'm sure most of the people that post turning videos have had years of practice, so it looks really easy, when in reality it isn't. At least until you've had years of practice!!@@petestools
I think the rotation should be opposite.!
yea thanks now i know LOL
I picked up a unit made in 1978 from a client moving into a care home. I use it occasionally. Anyway, it should be quieter. Definitely needs lubrication. You shouldn't have to resort to hammering to adjust it. Other than that, chisels need to be really sharp. Most important is a swear jar. You'll need it. The only thing that happens fast with a lathe is the f$%@ ups. Hence "occasional" use of mine. Please! Wear a face shield next time. I've seen wicked things happen with lathes. Cheers.
.
WTF.... Right. I'm not a wood machinist, but I have metal lathes. Firstly it looks like rotation is in the wrong direction. As you face the work, it should be turning anti clockwise. The tailstock has a morse taper revolving centre steady, it should move in and out via that handwheel. If it wont move, loosen that clamp handle and try again, oil it if necessary. That chisel rest is far to far away from the work. Finally the angle of the chisel should be about near the centre of the work piece. Mad as box of frogs.
But wasn't it fun