A track saw changed the way I worked. Having only room for a job site table saw I dreaded having to break down 4x8 plywood for large cabinets. The track saw was more accurate and less cumbersome. Definitely worth the money. And you can save a bit by buying the nice saw and cheaper tracks. I bought Powertec tracks for my Makita saw because the Makita tracks I got were warped. Best $60 spent.
I have a similar situation because I don’t have space for a permanent shop setup. Before I bought the track saw I was breaking down sheets with a circular saw then getting to dimension with the contractor saw. Worked out that due to the accuracy & clean cut edge achievable with the track saw I could reduce the total number of cuts needed to go from sheets to components by at least 50% & reduce material wastage. The contractor saw is still used for repeatability of final dimensions, but having finished sides to reference sooner is the bonus of the track saw. Doing this as a hobby, time is often the resource I have the least of & the savings of that by having a track saw have been the biggest benefit.
I love the takes here, and as a person who is rather short, manipulating large plywood sheets is super difficult for me. I just got a WEN track saw due to its price and I love the capability to put the pieces on the ground or a work bench and cut them down to size without having to worry much about setup. I love my table saw, but I don't have the wingspan to manhandle a sheet of plywood like Jason Hibbs or John Malecki... at least not safely. Thank you for laying out the positives and negatives and being fair about when a track saw is useful vs when another tool is probably better. I think we all get into the mindset of having 1 way of doing something, but that's not how woodworking works at all.
Great comment. I put a comment above, but 100% agree with you. I'm as big and beefy as Malecki, and after one (successful) whole-sheet plywood cut on my table saw, I realized just how stupid I'd just been. I can heft the sheet, but not really control it well enough. I'll live with the wastage after shop-floor breakdowns.
Nice comparison. I’ve always enjoyed your commentary and presentation style. Some suggestions: 1) Borrow an Festool MFT so you can see Festool’s full range and better compare with ACS; 2) The Festool TS 75 at least 14% more power than the Kreg; 3) It would help to know exactly which models of saws you are comparing. It looks like you have a Festool TS 55.
I ONLY use a track saw in my shop. Yes, the repeatability and small cuts can be difficult sometimes but it takes up so little space. Once you get the hang of it, you can really do a lot with just the track saw.
I had the Kreg track saw. The big negative for me is the proprietary track. It also had what I considered to be too much movement between the saw and the baseplate. (As in if you held the baseplate still, you could wiggle the saw). I emailed Kreg customer support with videos of the problem and they said it was normal. I sold it and bought the Festool. It has no movement. It is a much nicer saw. It should also be noted that the Festool has a thinner kerf blade which allows it to through material easier. Even if they are the same power, the Festool will cut easier due to the thinner kerf. You can’t use a thinner blade on the Kreg due to the riving knife. I am a fan of Kreg, as I own a lot of their tools, but if you can afford the Festool, it is a better saw. The ACS is neat though. My .02.
Chris, great content, dude! For what this is worth: I'm an intermediate level (??) woodworker who does both solid wood furniture and cabinetry. I own a table saw, and I wish I had a decent track saw system. Why? Answer: safety. Sometimes bringing the tool to the workpiece is safer than the piece-to-tool situation. I have gotten stupid and wrangled a 4x8 sheet through my table saw. I can be done, but that's not a risk I'll ever take again with hindsight being 20/20. I'll add that I agree - for any form of circular saw, corded is the way to go. I never want to lose battery power in the middle of a cut. Same for a router. Nine of ten times, that situation will lead to a messed-up piece. What I would/will get when $$ is available: the Makita track system, and a big ol' sheet of insulation foam.
@FoureyesWorkshop I only caught this video, I didn't expect to see my question answered on the clip - thanks for the response and demo! I imagined the solution you showed was a way to do it, so it's good to know I wasn't completely 'off the track'... Zero pardons for the pun! 😂
A track saw has made my life so much easier breaking down sheet goods… for those of us with small shops, I would highly recommend the investment. I personally find the combo of the track saw and table saw to be wonderful for a garage workshop.
It's not just small shops. I'm in a commercial building with ~1600 square feet and my track saw is used 99% of the time on a multi-table MFT set up and breaking down sheets and large rough lumber is trivial now. Love it.
I was skeptical on whether a track saw would be worth it. I have been adding custom cabinetry to my closet, pantry and pull-out drawers in my kitchen. I bought the Milwaukee one being on that platform and it has been a life saver. 2:43 resonated with me. I have a SawStop table saw but breaking down plywood and even doing things like edge chamfers, etc. have been a little tricky at times. The track saw has been a worthy investment and has really boosted my productivity and it is something I can see many uses in the future.
I use my tracksaw more than my table saw. With some parallel guides and the cross cut jig on my Ron Paulk bench, I can do every cut I need to make a cabinet. It's safer, more accurate, and is easy to transport. Also dust collection can be done with a vacuum instead of a full blown collector, which is great for working outside of the shop. It was well worth the investment for me.
A few more suggestions: 4) Review which tracks work with each saw. I believe the Festool design has been adopted by other track makers; 5) How many different types of blades are available for each saw?; 6) For large crosscuts (24”) I believe track saws are more accurate than most table saw set ups;
Festool is the most popular track style. Makita and Festool are considered the two best track saws on the market and they use the same track. I highly recommend buying into a saw that uses that platform so you have the option to upgrade without needing new tracks and accessories.
I’m really in the market to get a track saw and I wasn’t sure if the Kreg was worth it offer the Festool, but price is an object and I need it for cutting down full sheets of plywood that I just can’t do accurately enough on the table saw with the garage space Thanks for the video.
Since the point of a woodworking hobby is to build things out of wood, it isn’t impossibly hard to build your own MFT worktop. Aluminum extrusions make a great frame giving T-slots on the edge to attach accessories like clamps and the front and back pieces of hinged track guide/system/whatever its name is the holds your track 90 degrees. Then there are CNC cut templates or fancier PARF systems to guide drilling perfectly uniform dog holes in a sheet of high quality 3/4” (19 mm )plywood or MDF (which better, but heavier). And lastly there are fences that attach to dogs in the dog holes. These fences have tapes that go in a groove on the top and stops so accurate and rapidly repeatable cuts can be made on multiple parts. Fences can go on both sides of the cut line. The left side for longer pieces and the right side for short pieces. So even if you are cutting 20 narrow strips to make an end grain cutting board, you just set up the right side fence for the thickness you want, lift the track on its hinge and slide the glued-up panel up against the stop, drop the track and cut. Repeat until all of your strips are cut. The only difficulty compared to a table saw is when the remaining panel gets too skinny and the track and fence won’t hold it straight. The solution I found is to use another board of the same thickness of the panel and use double sided tape to hold it to the panel. When cutting the glued up panel for my latest cutting board, I had just a 1/4” thick piece of scrap left taped to the extra board.
There are several brands of parallel guides for track saws so you can make fast repeatable narrow cuts. Same goes for tables with bench dog holes - options out there for accurate repeatable angle cuts. That said, I've found the track saw takes a bit different of a skill set to make cuts as good as tables (and dado's will be moved to a router....) and there were times I threw up my hands and used the tables. This happens less and less though. It easier to have both, then use the tool that suits the task best.
Very educational, thanks Chris. Wishing you and your family a blessed holiday season filled with gentle seasonally appropriate weather and restful evenings. Peace brother
Good info, Chris~! A topic that's been heavy on my mind lately. I just made my chop saw purchase and chose the Bosch Axial-Glide. Just couldn't see spending more than twice as much for the Kapex. As for a plunge saw, I've been comparing the Kreg, Makita, & Festool. The MFTs are a bit out of reach, but I plan on using whichever saw purchased with my Centipede & a TrackTube setup. Luckily, I'm not in a rush to pick one up, so plenty of time to continue my comparisons. Thanks for this one~!
One thing that I didn't hear Chris mention was that The Festool, Makita, and Milwaukee tracksaws are all track compatible. The Kreg's track has a different, incompatible profile.
I had an older festool track saw that was similar to the Kreg. Then I got a newer festool (FEQ) and I use it on medium hardwood with no issues. I’m not sure it’s the power but maybe the thinner kerf blade but I can cross cut large sections of 1” walnut with no issues at all.
The Kreg was my first major purchase when starting. It’s alright, does everything it needs to do but always wanted to upgrade. So for the ts55 2 months ago and the difference is unreal. Having thin kerf blades and the ability to buy different blades for different applications is the biggest reason I wanted to upgrade as I found myself using the Kreg more for ripping edges in hardwood. I love having a track saw and a table saw. I wouldn’t want to be without either one
Having used both regularly, what is your opinion on the "right handed" versus "left handed" designs? Having never used either, I think I would buy the Kreg over all others just because it is "right handed" in my view.
I don't really see one being more beneficial than the other. It's different, but both are equally convenient. That said, when using the Kreg ON THE TABLE, I do prefer the way they have it set up...it's a bit more ergonomic for right handed people. But again, if it weren't that way, I don't think it would be too inconvenient.
I'm currently using a Wen track saw on a Festool MFT/3 multi-table set up. I use it mostly for big-stock and panel breakdowns, but I've done a number of finish cuts, too. I find it to be marginally more accurate than the Kreg ACS was. Some of the plastic bits on the ACS felt a little like I shouldn't trust them (the protractor, for instance), but some of that was just bias against plastics in certain applications, maybe. But between my time spent with the ACS and now on the MFTs, having a track saw in the shop and at the ready definitely has changed some of my workflows.
Great video. Got my Kreg during COVID when the Festool was unavailable. Any suggestions for 3rd party blades for the Kreg? Can’t seem to find any. Thanks!
To me, as a hobbyist woodworker, safety is extremely important (Christmas gifts are not worth losing fingers for). The table saw being the more dangerous tool, it's probably the one I'll get rid of first. I'm in the process of reconfiguring the workshop so that the table saw is no longer in the center, and instead I'd have some sort of MFT with the track saw always at the ready. Maybe at some point I'll find that I can ditch the table saw.. we'll see
I recently bought the track saw adapter from Milescraft, I have not yet gad the opportunity to do real project with it, but from the few test cuts I did, I can see how it will be way easier than just my circular saw and a straight edge.
Essentially, a sliding table saw does most of what a track saw will do, but those tend to start at $5,000 quickly go over $10,000. I do prefer having a cordless track saw so I can take it lumber yard and mills to make my own cuts. I have a small job site saw because of repeatability and you can do certain things more accurately and safely with the table saw.
One thing not many people pick up on is the Kreg is one of the few track saws that looks like it's designed for right handers (ie the blade on the left). Unfortunately I don't think it's available here in the UK for some reason.
Great video. I always watch your videos and wonder, could I make that with what I own. Most of the time the answer is no. That said in appears most of your tracksaw cuts are not the finished, final edge. My Kreg track saw is ok for what it is but the saw does have movement on the track so it really doesn't suffice for making final cuts for me. On the other hand my son-in-law is fully vested in Festool stuff and that tracksaw makes a final cut quite nicely without a bunch of fiddling and hoping. Admittedly there is a huge price penalty to jump in the Festool world. Again, I always enjoy your videos.
I run a tracksaw as a contractor. It's a Wen and it's overall basic, perhaps even garbage. But I don't carry a portable table saw. For as basic as it is, I prefer that portability.
How do you feel about getting a circular saw that can run on tracks (e.g. the Bosch GKS 18V-68 GC) as opposed to a plunge saw? I rarely need to plunge a saw. but I often need to cross cut boards freehand and I find a circular saw easier to use for this than a plunge saw.
Those are really good alternatives. I started with a similar system from Kreg. If you're a hobbiest, for sure start here before shelling out $800+. My Kreg track was only $70. That said, the plunge action and easy to set depth stop that you find on dedicated track saws are very nice to have. Plus they tend to have better dust collection and other QOL features over your typical circular saw. I would call adapters like that gateway tracksaws, not full blown replacements.
For about a year I only had Kreg ACS and I was able to do pretty much everything I needed… but every time I had to make drawers (i.e. large number of relatively small and identical pieces) I wished I had a table saw… it takes time to set up each cut and probability of making a mistake is rather high… also, lifting a saw few hundred (maybe even a thousand) times will make you feel it next day 😉
I have a mid grade table saw and a WEN track saw. I do like them and really hope my wife didn’t hear you say a track saw is for life😢. May never get the festool but maybe a makita.
I was a little disappointed with the Kreg right out of the box but I put a ripping blade on it and it struggles with nothing. Even with 2 in thick hard maple I only take 2 passes and there’s no bogging down. I guess my only gripe with the kreg saw is that the blade that comes with it may not be the best.
I got the Skil circular saw that has a track it can ride on and I get flawless 90° straight cuts and it was significantly cheaper than a dedicated track saw. The track is basically the exact same thing as a real track saw. Anyone on a budget should look into it.
I have found a second hand (a good bargain) Festool track saw that looks like it’s in excellent condition but the saw is almost 10 years old. Would that be a red flag for you?
I love my Kreg track saw. If I had one wish, it would be for Kreg (or anyone else) would make a long track capable of ripping a full sheet of plywood. It’s not a big deal but I would appreciate the convenience of not having to assemble my two Kreg 55’s.
That's the precise reason I went for the festool, but you pay very well for it. Battery saw with short track plus another 2.8(I think) metre track was about £900 in UK. No regrets though. Does exactly what I need as I work loads with full sheets
I have a track saw instead of a table saw because my workshop is 10" x15" at the maximum. ripping down 8" x 4" sheets with a table saw requires 8" of infeed space and 8" of outfeed space plus room to stand to hold the sheet. Using a track saw means moving a small tool instead of a big sheet. Personally, I struggle to lift full sheets of 3/4" material on my own so I'd rather do the heavy work when there isn't a spinning blade involved: Get it on trestles then cut it. If I had more space, I'd probably still use a tracksaw for sheets for that reason and I'm sure I'm not the only guy getting too old to treat woordworking as a workout.
@@aberba My 36v tracksaw had no problem with only live edge slab I've tried so far. 45mm of pau rosa was not a problem for it either long grain of cross grain. Being a live edge, I can't imagine a table saw would be an easier option. I also managed to cut 100mm x 100mm oak newel posts down to 80mm x 80mm for table legs with my track saw. I had to cut from both sides to the middle but ti worked and a hand plane fixed the slight overlap.
Having used both and owning the Kreg my choice would be to save my money a bit longer and get the Festool. But I guess that depends on how often you use it and what you do with it.
I started with a track saw and dog hole table. Tried to do everything with it. Maxed out its capabilities with different jigs and accessories. Ended up frustrated. Then I got a proper table saw, and began loving my tracksaw because I use it for what it’s best at and vice versa for the table saw
A track saw changed the way I worked. Having only room for a job site table saw I dreaded having to break down 4x8 plywood for large cabinets. The track saw was more accurate and less cumbersome. Definitely worth the money. And you can save a bit by buying the nice saw and cheaper tracks. I bought Powertec tracks for my Makita saw because the Makita tracks I got were warped. Best $60 spent.
I have a similar situation because I don’t have space for a permanent shop setup.
Before I bought the track saw I was breaking down sheets with a circular saw then getting to dimension with the contractor saw. Worked out that due to the accuracy & clean cut edge achievable with the track saw I could reduce the total number of cuts needed to go from sheets to components by at least 50% & reduce material wastage. The contractor saw is still used for repeatability of final dimensions, but having finished sides to reference sooner is the bonus of the track saw.
Doing this as a hobby, time is often the resource I have the least of & the savings of that by having a track saw have been the biggest benefit.
I love my makita track saw. It is my favorite tool.
I love the takes here, and as a person who is rather short, manipulating large plywood sheets is super difficult for me. I just got a WEN track saw due to its price and I love the capability to put the pieces on the ground or a work bench and cut them down to size without having to worry much about setup. I love my table saw, but I don't have the wingspan to manhandle a sheet of plywood like Jason Hibbs or John Malecki... at least not safely. Thank you for laying out the positives and negatives and being fair about when a track saw is useful vs when another tool is probably better. I think we all get into the mindset of having 1 way of doing something, but that's not how woodworking works at all.
Great comment. I put a comment above, but 100% agree with you. I'm as big and beefy as Malecki, and after one (successful) whole-sheet plywood cut on my table saw, I realized just how stupid I'd just been. I can heft the sheet, but not really control it well enough. I'll live with the wastage after shop-floor breakdowns.
I do believe tracksaws are so safe everyone should have one. I’m thrilled with my xgt makita
Nice comparison. I’ve always enjoyed your commentary and presentation style. Some suggestions: 1) Borrow an Festool MFT so you can see Festool’s full range and better compare with ACS; 2) The Festool TS 75 at least 14% more power than the Kreg; 3) It would help to know exactly which models of saws you are comparing. It looks like you have a Festool TS 55.
Why are you talking about a ts75? It isn’t relevant. He has a ts55FEQ sir. Since it is 2024 the ts60 or mafell k85 is what you should be talking about
I ONLY use a track saw in my shop. Yes, the repeatability and small cuts can be difficult sometimes but it takes up so little space. Once you get the hang of it, you can really do a lot with just the track saw.
I had the Kreg track saw. The big negative for me is the proprietary track. It also had what I considered to be too much movement between the saw and the baseplate. (As in if you held the baseplate still, you could wiggle the saw). I emailed Kreg customer support with videos of the problem and they said it was normal. I sold it and bought the Festool. It has no movement. It is a much nicer saw. It should also be noted that the Festool has a thinner kerf blade which allows it to through material easier. Even if they are the same power, the Festool will cut easier due to the thinner kerf. You can’t use a thinner blade on the Kreg due to the riving knife. I am a fan of Kreg, as I own a lot of their tools, but if you can afford the Festool, it is a better saw. The ACS is neat though. My .02.
Chris, great content, dude! For what this is worth: I'm an intermediate level (??) woodworker who does both solid wood furniture and cabinetry. I own a table saw, and I wish I had a decent track saw system. Why? Answer: safety. Sometimes bringing the tool to the workpiece is safer than the piece-to-tool situation. I have gotten stupid and wrangled a 4x8 sheet through my table saw. I can be done, but that's not a risk I'll ever take again with hindsight being 20/20.
I'll add that I agree - for any form of circular saw, corded is the way to go. I never want to lose battery power in the middle of a cut. Same for a router. Nine of ten times, that situation will lead to a messed-up piece.
What I would/will get when $$ is available: the Makita track system, and a big ol' sheet of insulation foam.
@FoureyesWorkshop I only caught this video, I didn't expect to see my question answered on the clip - thanks for the response and demo!
I imagined the solution you showed was a way to do it, so it's good to know I wasn't completely 'off the track'... Zero pardons for the pun! 😂
A track saw has made my life so much easier breaking down sheet goods… for those of us with small shops, I would highly recommend the investment. I personally find the combo of the track saw and table saw to be wonderful for a garage workshop.
Completely agree.
It's not just small shops. I'm in a commercial building with ~1600 square feet and my track saw is used 99% of the time on a multi-table MFT set up and breaking down sheets and large rough lumber is trivial now. Love it.
I was skeptical on whether a track saw would be worth it. I have been adding custom cabinetry to my closet, pantry and pull-out drawers in my kitchen. I bought the Milwaukee one being on that platform and it has been a life saver. 2:43 resonated with me. I have a SawStop table saw but breaking down plywood and even doing things like edge chamfers, etc. have been a little tricky at times. The track saw has been a worthy investment and has really boosted my productivity and it is something I can see many uses in the future.
I use my tracksaw more than my table saw. With some parallel guides and the cross cut jig on my Ron Paulk bench, I can do every cut I need to make a cabinet. It's safer, more accurate, and is easy to transport. Also dust collection can be done with a vacuum instead of a full blown collector, which is great for working outside of the shop. It was well worth the investment for me.
A few more suggestions: 4) Review which tracks work with each saw. I believe the Festool design has been adopted by other track makers; 5) How many different types of blades are available for each saw?; 6) For large crosscuts (24”) I believe track saws are more accurate than most table saw set ups;
4, it has been done already, peter millard on yt
Festool is the most popular track style. Makita and Festool are considered the two best track saws on the market and they use the same track. I highly recommend buying into a saw that uses that platform so you have the option to upgrade without needing new tracks and accessories.
I’m really in the market to get a track saw and I wasn’t sure if the Kreg was worth it offer the Festool, but price is an object and I need it for cutting down full sheets of plywood that I just can’t do accurately enough on the table saw with the garage space
Thanks for the video.
Since the point of a woodworking hobby is to build things out of wood, it isn’t impossibly hard to build your own MFT worktop. Aluminum extrusions make a great frame giving T-slots on the edge to attach accessories like clamps and the front and back pieces of hinged track guide/system/whatever its name is the holds your track 90 degrees. Then there are CNC cut templates or fancier PARF systems to guide drilling perfectly uniform dog holes in a sheet of high quality 3/4” (19 mm )plywood or MDF (which better, but heavier). And lastly there are fences that attach to dogs in the dog holes. These fences have tapes that go in a groove on the top and stops so accurate and rapidly repeatable cuts can be made on multiple parts. Fences can go on both sides of the cut line. The left side for longer pieces and the right side for short pieces. So even if you are cutting 20 narrow strips to make an end grain cutting board, you just set up the right side fence for the thickness you want, lift the track on its hinge and slide the glued-up panel up against the stop, drop the track and cut. Repeat until all of your strips are cut.
The only difficulty compared to a table saw is when the remaining panel gets too skinny and the track and fence won’t hold it straight. The solution I found is to use another board of the same thickness of the panel and use double sided tape to hold it to the panel. When cutting the glued up panel for my latest cutting board, I had just a 1/4” thick piece of scrap left taped to the extra board.
There are several brands of parallel guides for track saws so you can make fast repeatable narrow cuts. Same goes for tables with bench dog holes - options out there for accurate repeatable angle cuts.
That said, I've found the track saw takes a bit different of a skill set to make cuts as good as tables (and dado's will be moved to a router....) and there were times I threw up my hands and used the tables. This happens less and less though. It easier to have both, then use the tool that suits the task best.
Very educational, thanks Chris. Wishing you and your family a blessed holiday season filled with gentle seasonally appropriate weather and restful evenings.
Peace brother
Good info, Chris~! A topic that's been heavy on my mind lately. I just made my chop saw purchase and chose the Bosch Axial-Glide. Just couldn't see spending more than twice as much for the Kapex. As for a plunge saw, I've been comparing the Kreg, Makita, & Festool. The MFTs are a bit out of reach, but I plan on using whichever saw purchased with my Centipede & a TrackTube setup. Luckily, I'm not in a rush to pick one up, so plenty of time to continue my comparisons.
Thanks for this one~!
One thing that I didn't hear Chris mention was that The Festool, Makita, and Milwaukee tracksaws are all track compatible. The Kreg's track has a different, incompatible profile.
I had an older festool track saw that was similar to the Kreg. Then I got a newer festool (FEQ) and I use it on medium hardwood with no issues. I’m not sure it’s the power but maybe the thinner kerf blade but I can cross cut large sections of 1” walnut with no issues at all.
The Kreg was my first major purchase when starting. It’s alright, does everything it needs to do but always wanted to upgrade. So for the ts55 2 months ago and the difference is unreal. Having thin kerf blades and the ability to buy different blades for different applications is the biggest reason I wanted to upgrade as I found myself using the Kreg more for ripping edges in hardwood. I love having a track saw and a table saw. I wouldn’t want to be without either one
Having used both regularly, what is your opinion on the "right handed" versus "left handed" designs? Having never used either, I think I would buy the Kreg over all others just because it is "right handed" in my view.
I don't really see one being more beneficial than the other. It's different, but both are equally convenient.
That said, when using the Kreg ON THE TABLE, I do prefer the way they have it set up...it's a bit more ergonomic for right handed people. But again, if it weren't that way, I don't think it would be too inconvenient.
I'm currently using a Wen track saw on a Festool MFT/3 multi-table set up. I use it mostly for big-stock and panel breakdowns, but I've done a number of finish cuts, too. I find it to be marginally more accurate than the Kreg ACS was. Some of the plastic bits on the ACS felt a little like I shouldn't trust them (the protractor, for instance), but some of that was just bias against plastics in certain applications, maybe. But between my time spent with the ACS and now on the MFTs, having a track saw in the shop and at the ready definitely has changed some of my workflows.
Great video. Got my Kreg during COVID when the Festool was unavailable. Any suggestions for 3rd party blades for the Kreg? Can’t seem to find any. Thanks!
To me, as a hobbyist woodworker, safety is extremely important (Christmas gifts are not worth losing fingers for). The table saw being the more dangerous tool, it's probably the one I'll get rid of first.
I'm in the process of reconfiguring the workshop so that the table saw is no longer in the center, and instead I'd have some sort of MFT with the track saw always at the ready. Maybe at some point I'll find that I can ditch the table saw.. we'll see
I recently bought the track saw adapter from Milescraft, I have not yet gad the opportunity to do real project with it, but from the few test cuts I did, I can see how it will be way easier than just my circular saw and a straight edge.
Thanks Chris!
Excellent, clear advice. Well said.
If I lost everything tomorrow, the first tool I'd replace is my track saw.
Essentially, a sliding table saw does most of what a track saw will do, but those tend to start at $5,000 quickly go over $10,000. I do prefer having a cordless track saw so I can take it lumber yard and mills to make my own cuts.
I have a small job site saw because of repeatability and you can do certain things more accurately and safely with the table saw.
One thing not many people pick up on is the Kreg is one of the few track saws that looks like it's designed for right handers (ie the blade on the left). Unfortunately I don't think it's available here in the UK for some reason.
Great video. I always watch your videos and wonder, could I make that with what I own. Most of the time the answer is no. That said in appears most of your tracksaw cuts are not the finished, final edge. My Kreg track saw is ok for what it is but the saw does have movement on the track so it really doesn't suffice for making final cuts for me. On the other hand my son-in-law is fully vested in Festool stuff and that tracksaw makes a final cut quite nicely without a bunch of fiddling and hoping. Admittedly there is a huge price penalty to jump in the Festool world. Again, I always enjoy your videos.
I run a tracksaw as a contractor. It's a Wen and it's overall basic, perhaps even garbage. But I don't carry a portable table saw. For as basic as it is, I prefer that portability.
How do you feel about getting a circular saw that can run on tracks (e.g. the Bosch GKS 18V-68 GC) as opposed to a plunge saw? I rarely need to plunge a saw. but I often need to cross cut boards freehand and I find a circular saw easier to use for this than a plunge saw.
I have the Milwaukee track saw and I love it
Thanks for sharing.
The Milescraft track saw guide takes your regular circular saw and turn it into a track saw. Gives you the best of both worlds.
Those are really good alternatives. I started with a similar system from Kreg. If you're a hobbiest, for sure start here before shelling out $800+. My Kreg track was only $70.
That said, the plunge action and easy to set depth stop that you find on dedicated track saws are very nice to have. Plus they tend to have better dust collection and other QOL features over your typical circular saw. I would call adapters like that gateway tracksaws, not full blown replacements.
For about a year I only had Kreg ACS and I was able to do pretty much everything I needed… but every time I had to make drawers (i.e. large number of relatively small and identical pieces) I wished I had a table saw… it takes time to set up each cut and probability of making a mistake is rather high… also, lifting a saw few hundred (maybe even a thousand) times will make you feel it next day 😉
I have a mid grade table saw and a WEN track saw. I do like them and really hope my wife didn’t hear you say a track saw is for life😢. May never get the festool but maybe a makita.
I was a little disappointed with the Kreg right out of the box but I put a ripping blade on it and it struggles with nothing. Even with 2 in thick hard maple I only take 2 passes and there’s no bogging down. I guess my only gripe with the kreg saw is that the blade that comes with it may not be the best.
I got the Skil circular saw that has a track it can ride on and I get flawless 90° straight cuts and it was significantly cheaper than a dedicated track saw. The track is basically the exact same thing as a real track saw. Anyone on a budget should look into it.
Can you post the link to that big red square you use with the feetool track? Couldn't find it on ali
I have found a second hand (a good bargain) Festool track saw that looks like it’s in excellent condition but the saw is almost 10 years old. Would that be a red flag for you?
I love my Kreg track saw. If I had one wish, it would be for Kreg (or anyone else) would make a long track capable of ripping a full sheet of plywood. It’s not a big deal but I would appreciate the convenience of not having to assemble my two Kreg 55’s.
That's the precise reason I went for the festool, but you pay very well for it. Battery saw with short track plus another 2.8(I think) metre track was about £900 in UK. No regrets though. Does exactly what I need as I work loads with full sheets
Makita sell a 3m track compatible with Makita, festool, and most other brands
@@5446or5446 thanks… I certainly wish it would work with the Kreg!
I have a track saw instead of a table saw because my workshop is 10" x15" at the maximum. ripping down 8" x 4" sheets with a table saw requires 8" of infeed space and 8" of outfeed space plus room to stand to hold the sheet. Using a track saw means moving a small tool instead of a big sheet. Personally, I struggle to lift full sheets of 3/4" material on my own so I'd rather do the heavy work when there isn't a spinning blade involved: Get it on trestles then cut it. If I had more space, I'd probably still use a tracksaw for sheets for that reason and I'm sure I'm not the only guy getting too old to treat woordworking as a workout.
That's because you seem to be mostly working with sheets. How about hard wood? (2x2, 2x4 slaps, miters, etc.).
@@aberba My 36v tracksaw had no problem with only live edge slab I've tried so far. 45mm of pau rosa was not a problem for it either long grain of cross grain. Being a live edge, I can't imagine a table saw would be an easier option. I also managed to cut 100mm x 100mm oak newel posts down to 80mm x 80mm for table legs with my track saw. I had to cut from both sides to the middle but ti worked and a hand plane fixed the slight overlap.
Kinda just want the link to the flannel
I think a prerequisite for this video is knowing what an ACS is because I’m lost
your timing on this video is ridiculous, I just started contemplating a track saw this helps
Having used both and owning the Kreg my choice would be to save my money a bit longer and get the Festool. But I guess that depends on how often you use it and what you do with it.
yes, I do because I don't want to use a table saw :D mft for life!
I started with a track saw and dog hole table. Tried to do everything with it. Maxed out its capabilities with different jigs and accessories. Ended up frustrated. Then I got a proper table saw, and began loving my tracksaw because I use it for what it’s best at and vice versa for the table saw
Fair. I have a very limited of list of needs for my table saw, growing shorter by the year. It’s that good
You're a Detroiter? I see you in the baseball cap frequently
How do you make a 12 MINUTE VIDEO about tracksaws 😂 (pin pls?)