@@stupidscruff I personally prefer graphite grease mainly because its cheaper and does as good job. Also I like it on exhaust fixings because grease burns off over time but the graphite stays. Couple months ago did a turbo on mothers car had no issues removing bolts mainly because of that grease.
Thanks for this upload, I guess you are driving in England and councils use rock salt etc in winter which then forms into spray as the thaw begins and hangs around on road surface for weeks mixing with further rain n more spray coating everyone’s vehicle’s. Which I sure as hell don’t miss as I am a 76 year old mechanic, we have two 2005 TOYOTA cars never garaged and no rust, nuts n bolts undo like new for suspension or brake repairs. Toyota rules most reliable n go the distance especially if serviced reasonably well. Vehicles seemed to dissolve a little more each winter, i remember as an apprentice mechanic back in the 60’s n 70’s my poor Dad used to get very annoyed as his prized babes became lighter each winter. Best wishes from Robert in NZ.
@@annsmith8000 yes, we're next to the coast as well so cars rust fast here 😬 I'm pretty shocked at the bolt quality on these recent cars though, that could be avoided! I will get some fluid film soon 👍 Thanks
I did something similar on my 92 Jeep Wrangler. I replaced all the rusty or partially rusted bolts and screws with SS bolts and screws... The ones that I did not replace I just brushed the rust OFF, painted and applied fluid film.. Good video! Thanks for posting it.
Great advice, but if you're going to do any serious amount of rust removal, get a cordless die grinder and rotary tool and the proper abrasive discs, grinding bits and wire wheels. They do a MUCH better job of it, are faster, easier on the hands, and really get all the rust out. I started out with a drill and wire wheels and trust me, this way is so much better. I got the Milwaukee M12 ones, which are fantastic and well worth the price. And before you paint, first clean with a water-based degreaser and rinse that off and let it dry, then treat with a phosphoric acid-based deruster, preferably with zinc in it, let it sit 15-30 minutes, then rinse that off, let it dry, and only then paint. This way the paint adheres better and the metal gets an extra coating of rust prevention.
@@stupidscruff Yes lazy people and mechanics working on other people's cars because saves time and is cleaner and easier than using a little bit of grease. It depends if you ever need to get those bolts out again in a few years. Grease is very good protection against rust and corrosion.
@@stupidscruff You dont use grease on bolts and nuts that have torque specs, like wheel bolts/lugs etc. But just for fastening down stuff that are not that important you can apply some grease.
Good idea to derust and paint the battery tray. A battery tray should last at least 20 years :) About the screws. Did use stainless screws too. Resultet in that the steel close to the screws startet to rust faster. So it might be a good idea to use standard screws and replace them regularly. Many cars do rust from the inside out. Sills are often a problem. When the weather is warm and nice next year you might want to put Fluidfilm into the sills the doors, hood... Preventing rust on the inside (not visible) does avoid a lot of "pain" (welding) later on. A garage that specialises in rust prevention did put 10 kg grease into the sills, doors and other hollow profiles of my car. Want to drive my car for the next 15 years. It's 14 years old...
@@stefan_sth that's interesting about the stainless bolts. I have just got some of the correct size for the battery tray, I will be interested to see if they do cause any problems, time will tell! You're right, I definitely need to spray some stuff around to help the insides though I have a low budget idea I am going to try for another video 😎👍 thanks for the tips
So I read up about the stainless steel screws causing rust, it seems that having alloy against stainless steel causes the steel bolts to become negatively charged in a high salt environment. Where did you use the stainless screws? Were they inserted into a high alloy metal? Apparently using rubber washers prevents the issue
@@stupidscruff I did use them on my motorbike to attach the air filter box to the frame. After rust occured I put some grease on the screws before reattaching. That worked for me. But greasing is not a good idea i every case as the friction changes. When using a torque wrench, the reduced friction will change the force applied to the screw while it is thightened. No problem for the screws you changed though :)
Just remember that mixing two different metals, in this case stainless bolts in contact with mild steel can lead to galvanic corrosion. This could result in accelerated corrosion of the bodywork where it contacts the bolts. Some grease like copper slip on the threads and under the bolt heads will help, as it will prevent water getting into the contact areas.
@@billbarney4937 I went for the simplest, most reliable car I could for a daily, it has no turbo either which was important to me. Had a gut-full of TDIs now, sick and tired of the constant mechanical issues. Rust isn't so bad if you keep on top of it 👍
If you're using vinegar or citric acid, use bicarb after to neutralise the acid, or the rust will come back quicker. If it's a bolt I'll put some RP90 on it before putting it back.
@@adrianmunteanu4827 The bolts for the battery tray are M8 x 20mm Flanged and the headlight screws I bought are M5 x 16mm Flanged Philips Head Hex but you'll need washers most likely. I bought them from eBay 👍
@@newblackdog7827 you aren't the first to mention fluid film, I'm going to look that up, thanks! I have done some wax oiling, I'm working through it slowly 👍
I repair rust - there may be people out there that repair more rust, but I doubt it. Highly doubt it. Oil is the answer - or oil products. Grease, oil - one of those - slather the metal in it. Rust hates oil.
yep, you can use the likes of rp90 etc any penetrating oil spray the metal (just amake sure it is bone dry or you'll lock some moisture in). Nuts, bolts, sills, behind wheel arches (clean and dry first). In fact if my hands get oily, I spray rp90/wd40 on my hands, rub, wipe of with a rag or blue roll, rub washing up liquid onto your hands, rinse under tap, you'll be surprised how much crap it removes from yuor skin very quickly.
@@Mach141 you're never going to completely remove rust once it has set in, the metal will have oxidisation you can't see with your naked eye, that's why people still apply the rust converter. On the wings of my VW I took them back to metal and didn't use rust converter, within a year then rust was back in exactly the same spots. It makes a difference.
@@therealsharps what someone considers "cheap" is subjective. If the car is in great shape in 5 years I'll get a bigger return upon sale, or decide to keep the car for longer! 😎👍 Also, the new tax laws in the UK next year don't affect this particular model, so it could hold value well
Galvanic corrosion en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_series Using stainless steel bolts/screws in steel sheet speeds up the corrosion. Best to clean, use rust inhibitor, re-paint and/or spray with Waxoyl or equivalent IMO
@@julianhull965 I'm going to stick them in and see what happens, if it starts rusting in a year I'll post a video on it and if there is no rust I'll post that too 😎👍 Thanks for the link, I went down a rabbit hole 😂
I always use Anit-Sieze on bolts, especially threaded holes in the body and always with stainless hardware as it tends to gall the threads over time.
That's a good idea, thinking I need to do that. Would copper grease be ok do you think?
@@stupidscruff I personally prefer graphite grease mainly because its cheaper and does as good job. Also I like it on exhaust fixings because grease burns off over time but the graphite stays. Couple months ago did a turbo on mothers car had no issues removing bolts mainly because of that grease.
@@strokermk3 awesome, sounds like a good idea! 😎👍
Thanks for this upload, I guess you are driving in England and councils use rock salt etc in winter which then forms into spray as the thaw begins and hangs around on road surface for weeks mixing with further rain n more spray coating everyone’s vehicle’s. Which I sure as hell don’t miss as I am a 76 year old mechanic, we have two 2005 TOYOTA cars never garaged and no rust, nuts n bolts undo like new for suspension or brake repairs. Toyota rules most reliable n go the distance especially if serviced reasonably well. Vehicles seemed to dissolve a little more each winter, i remember as an apprentice mechanic back in the 60’s n 70’s my poor Dad used to get very annoyed as his prized babes became lighter each winter.
Best wishes from Robert in NZ.
@@annsmith8000 yes, we're next to the coast as well so cars rust fast here 😬
I'm pretty shocked at the bolt quality on these recent cars though, that could be avoided! I will get some fluid film soon 👍 Thanks
FLUID FILM!! fluid film!!
I did something similar on my 92 Jeep Wrangler. I replaced all the rusty or partially rusted bolts and screws with SS bolts and screws... The ones that I did not replace I just brushed the rust OFF, painted and applied fluid film.. Good video! Thanks for posting it.
Thanks that's a good idea about painting them too, I'm going to do more of that with the VW I think, also buy fluid film. Thanks again 😎👍
Great advice, but if you're going to do any serious amount of rust removal, get a cordless die grinder and rotary tool and the proper abrasive discs, grinding bits and wire wheels. They do a MUCH better job of it, are faster, easier on the hands, and really get all the rust out. I started out with a drill and wire wheels and trust me, this way is so much better. I got the Milwaukee M12 ones, which are fantastic and well worth the price.
And before you paint, first clean with a water-based degreaser and rinse that off and let it dry, then treat with a phosphoric acid-based deruster, preferably with zinc in it, let it sit 15-30 minutes, then rinse that off, let it dry, and only then paint. This way the paint adheres better and the metal gets an extra coating of rust prevention.
Awesome! Thanks mate, I will be investing in a grinder and a cheap welder soon, I think it's going to get more serious towards the rear axle 😬
Instead of putting the bolts back in dry, apply a little grease to the threads so they don't seize.
@@musiknymph really? I thought most people say not to grease bolts?
@@stupidscruff
Yes lazy people and mechanics working on other people's cars because saves time and is cleaner and easier than using a little bit of grease.
It depends if you ever need to get those bolts out again in a few years.
Grease is very good protection against rust and corrosion.
@@musiknymph thanks mate appreciate the advice
@@stupidscruff You dont use grease on bolts and nuts that have torque specs, like wheel bolts/lugs etc. But just for fastening down stuff that are not that important you can apply some grease.
@@k1leon yes that makes sense,😎👍
Looks 100 times better mate inspired me to do mine😊
@@bigtrippy4970 yes! Good! We can get people taking care of their cars again 😎👍
Good idea to derust and paint the battery tray. A battery tray should last at least 20 years :)
About the screws. Did use stainless screws too. Resultet in that the steel close to the screws startet to rust faster. So it might be a good idea to use standard screws and replace them regularly.
Many cars do rust from the inside out. Sills are often a problem. When the weather is warm and nice next year you might want to put Fluidfilm into the sills the doors, hood...
Preventing rust on the inside (not visible) does avoid a lot of "pain" (welding) later on.
A garage that specialises in rust prevention did put 10 kg grease into the sills, doors and other hollow profiles of my car. Want to drive my car for the next 15 years. It's 14 years old...
@@stefan_sth that's interesting about the stainless bolts. I have just got some of the correct size for the battery tray, I will be interested to see if they do cause any problems, time will tell!
You're right, I definitely need to spray some stuff around to help the insides though I have a low budget idea I am going to try for another video 😎👍 thanks for the tips
So I read up about the stainless steel screws causing rust, it seems that having alloy against stainless steel causes the steel bolts to become negatively charged in a high salt environment.
Where did you use the stainless screws? Were they inserted into a high alloy metal?
Apparently using rubber washers prevents the issue
@@stupidscruff I did use them on my motorbike to attach the air filter box to the frame. After rust occured I put some grease on the screws before reattaching. That worked for me. But greasing is not a good idea i every case as the friction changes. When using a torque wrench, the reduced friction will change the force applied to the screw while it is thightened. No problem for the screws you changed though :)
Just remember that mixing two different metals, in this case stainless bolts in contact with mild steel can lead to galvanic corrosion. This could result in accelerated corrosion of the bodywork where it contacts the bolts. Some grease like copper slip on the threads and under the bolt heads will help, as it will prevent water getting into the contact areas.
Thanks for the reminder 😎👍
good choice on car make. toyota and honda used to make the best cars. not anymore though
@@billbarney4937 I went for the simplest, most reliable car I could for a daily, it has no turbo either which was important to me.
Had a gut-full of TDIs now, sick and tired of the constant mechanical issues.
Rust isn't so bad if you keep on top of it 👍
Bolts put in vinegar, for 2-3 days, cleaned with wire brush, dry and then painted
If you're using vinegar or citric acid, use bicarb after to neutralise the acid, or the rust will come back quicker. If it's a bolt I'll put some RP90 on it before putting it back.
Get some acf50 lashed round it , especially inside the sills at the back.
I need to look that stuff up! Thanks!
ACF50 is good stuff - I cost my. Motorcycle in it all winter
Hi! Can you please tell me the size of the bolts or where can I find it?
I also have a Yaris and my bolt on the headlight ar alos rusted.
Thanks!
Sure I'll look it up later, the screws I bought for the headlights need washers though, the heads are a bit small
@@adrianmunteanu4827 The bolts for the battery tray are M8 x 20mm Flanged and the headlight screws I bought are M5 x 16mm Flanged Philips Head Hex but you'll need washers most likely.
I bought them from eBay 👍
Thanks!
Fluid film yes, waxoyl no! It dries out and water collects underneath and makes rust worse
Interesting! Thanks 👍
If manufacturers can save a penny per screw they will because it adds up to a lot of money in the long run.
Absolutely, shaving everywhere possible to keep those profits up
you were already set to go with rustoleum rusty metal primer with top coat.
Use fluid film and waxoil to rustproof the car, especially sills & suspension components
@@newblackdog7827 you aren't the first to mention fluid film, I'm going to look that up, thanks!
I have done some wax oiling, I'm working through it slowly 👍
waxol creates more issues than it solves.
@@stupidscruff
th-cam.com/video/IGb8aNRliTM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=OBgMkfPu9uqqhbnc
@@stupidscruff
th-cam.com/video/VPHDZbWD6J0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KunbZFI5cteUn5hB
I repair rust - there may be people out there that repair more rust, but I doubt it. Highly doubt it. Oil is the answer - or oil products. Grease, oil - one of those - slather the metal in it. Rust hates oil.
@@jamesward5721 I will be using oil next episode, few people have mentioned it now but it's good to be reminded! Thanks mate 👍
yep, you can use the likes of rp90 etc any penetrating oil spray the metal (just amake sure it is bone dry or you'll lock some moisture in). Nuts, bolts, sills, behind wheel arches (clean and dry first). In fact if my hands get oily, I spray rp90/wd40 on my hands, rub, wipe of with a rag or blue roll, rub washing up liquid onto your hands, rinse under tap, you'll be surprised how much crap it removes from yuor skin very quickly.
Scotty Kilmer may go on about Toyotas but from the 70s till now all Japanese cars are rust buckets!
Bane of my existance with those cheap bolts. My motorcycle had plenty of bolts rot within first two years.
Ridiculous isn't, I'm convinced it's designed obsolescence at this point
@@stupidscruff This and the fact that Yaris and my bike are both low-end offerings, so they will have cheap bits including weak zinc coating.
@@Stratos1988 yeah that could be a factor, it doesn't cost much to upgrade the bolts but by bit though, worth it in the long run 😎👍
Get stainless screws there not much more but don't rust
I did!
You’re using rust converter wrong. You don’t remove the rust, and then apply it.
@@Mach141 you're never going to completely remove rust once it has set in, the metal will have oxidisation you can't see with your naked eye, that's why people still apply the rust converter.
On the wings of my VW I took them back to metal and didn't use rust converter, within a year then rust was back in exactly the same spots. It makes a difference.
@@stupidscruff There are other products more suitable as a coating after majority of corrosion is removed
@@Mach141 what would you suggest?
is that worth is on a cheap shitbox you'll just sell ?
@@therealsharps what someone considers "cheap" is subjective. If the car is in great shape in 5 years I'll get a bigger return upon sale, or decide to keep the car for longer! 😎👍
Also, the new tax laws in the UK next year don't affect this particular model, so it could hold value well
What ? A Camry is not a "Shitbox"
Galvanic corrosion en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_series
Using stainless steel bolts/screws in steel sheet speeds up the corrosion.
Best to clean, use rust inhibitor, re-paint and/or spray with Waxoyl or equivalent IMO
FWIW my bike has a titanium alloy frame and I cannot use SS screws only Ti ones for the same reasons
@@julianhull965 I'm going to stick them in and see what happens, if it starts rusting in a year I'll post a video on it and if there is no rust I'll post that too 😎👍 Thanks for the link, I went down a rabbit hole 😂
Put Duralac on the bolts; it prevents galvanic corrosion.
@@EvoraGT430 awesome mate, I need to explore this
@@stupidscruff Had SS bolts on my VW for a few years; have not noticed any corrosion...