Axle rebuilds - Do you do the carrier and set rotational torque BEFORE axle installs and finding that end play? - Having the oil slinger in, does that act like a shim at all or leave it out until finally assembly? - Do you have a best practice on the inner axle oil seal installs; seems like a lot of ways but I have more faith in you as the SME to get this done right. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos, you don’t simply tell people ‘how’ as much as you tell people ‘why’ to do something and I for one am extremely grateful!
Rotational torque is set with just the pinion installed, no carrier. Just pinion rotation. Slinger on pinion must be there for torque. Slinger over bearing and just under the seal can be installed at any time. Torque measured with no seal. I have videos that show inner seal install. I use a square tube and socket long enough to reach thru the tube and tap seal in.
Hey Brian, Thank you so much for giving us such detailed Information on overhauling the axles. Your work is very interesting to watch and as I think easy to understand for someone who has the abilities to work on such things. I like the way you teach this stuff without judgements or any other "taste". There are so much guys that are not able to teach things without profiling themselves. Thank you
Hey, just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I have a 1960 CJ5 about halfway restored in the shop, and your videos have really helped! I know there are differences between the years we are working on, but many similarities. Great work my friend, keep em coming if you can :)
Glad my videos have helped you during your restoration, that was my goal, to help other restorers. I am still working on a few projects in the shop so keep watching as there are many more videos to come. If there is anything specific you would like to see just send a comment. Thanks for being a continued supporter.
Thank you getting back to me on the old 46 .the seals are in check with merrier. I can push the race & bearing flush on one side.the other side will be out about 1, 4 of inch. So I drive the other side back . Same thing .I no I can't turn the axle by hand so I even up bearing cups both sids. Then I can Turn the axle ok .now this is 1, 8 inch on both sides . Agen thank you for getting back to me
Hopefully you see this. Inherited a 69 jeepster commando only god knows what MacGyver jobs my grandfather has done to this BUT....drivers side rear axle shaft is out...now trying to slide it back in it doesn't want to spline up. I removed brake assembly then while grabbing the shaft it came out unexpectedly easy wasnt my intent to take it out. Now doesn't wanna go back in.
Your video says that you put shims on both ends of the axle is that true? I have a CJ3B and I recall the manual saying to just shim one end... What do you suggest and I'm assuming that you just use the amount of shims needed to give you the recommended play you detailed in this video? Thanks very much!
First off thanks for great videos. I have a Dana 41 rear end I am rebuilding. I got the carrier and pinion installed and went to put the axles in. On one side the bearing cup will have to be tapped in. On the passenger side, the hole is about 1 mm larger. Just large enough to slide the bearing cup in with tapping it. Is this a problem, is my housing toast?
shot in tbe dark here.. im doing a 1960 cj5 and having a problem finding the part numbers for the axle shaft seals at 6:30 min mark of your video. any resources would be greatly appreciated. thanks for the vids, very helpful! Brad
I got new bearings in 1946 cj 2 a .now my bearings can't go in all the way .got about 1, 8 inch on both sides is this normal will the shims take care of the play . Need help.
Question for you...my 1960 cj5's rear dana 44 has the passenger side wheel about 1/2" further away from the body than the driver's side. It is not body alignment or anything, I have measured just about everywhere. It does have larger brake drums than stock. Have you ever seen this? Could the axle be shimmed that way or something? Thank you.
Often times one axle is shimmed and the other isn't but .500" seems excessive. Make sure your axle perch isn't worn out and that the spring center bolt is properly in place in the axle perch.
I've seen in some of your videos, and on some of my parts a discoloration on different shafts and such. I've always wondered and thought I'd ask you if that might be a result of overheating or is that just a natural result of the machining process or something else?
Hard to tell without seeing the actual part. usually shafts don't have any discoloration from machining, just overheating, but it depends on the part and the finish.
The question is how do you press the axle bearing back on without distorting it? I have a floor press and when I did my D44 bearing install I flipped it in the press and pressed the bearing in using a splitter and gradually pressed it on. When I flipped the axle back over the outer cage was distorted. So is there a trade secret or specific method to use before I mess up another set of bearings? Thank goodness Rockauto sells these bearings at a decent price.
you can use a spacer ring when installing the bearings so the outer cage isn't resting on your press blocks. You can take an old bearing and remove the outer cage and rollers and use that as a press ring. It will fit the bearing perfectly and put all the pressure on the center part of the bearing which is where you need to press from. Hope this helps you. Brian
I own everything in the metal workshop, wood workshop, paint workshop, sawmill, etc.... Has taken a lifetime of buying, selling, trading, etc.... acquire the tools I have to make a living.
Great Videos, I'm working on a 1952 M38A1 and your videos have been a lot of help. I'm trying to install the inner axel seal, and when you knock it in, how did you do that? I'm having issues and have already deformed 1 seal. Thanks Sean
Are you referring to the front or rear axle? The front axle i use a socket and an extension to install both sides. On the rear axle when installing the seal use a seal installer or just a round piece of steel stock a little smaller than the seal to spread the load when driving it in. Hope that helps, Brian
This is not a "C" clip rear axle, so no worries about how to get the axles out. Just nut and bolts on the axle housing and then pull the axle out. All explained in my videos.
Axle seal was kinda tough to get out on my M38, and a weird spacer that looked like it was made out of aluminum came out from behind the inner axle oil seal. Do you know what this part is ? Can't find anyone that sells it, and it does not have a name on the parts diagrams. Only one parts diagram shows the part, but no description. Metal spacer goes behind oil seal. Please help ! Mayor Fuglycool
They are supposed to be in there. Just install it before you put the seal in. They often come out when knocking out the inner seals. No big deal, just put back in place and continue as normal. Brian
Axle rebuilds
- Do you do the carrier and set rotational torque BEFORE axle installs and finding that end play?
- Having the oil slinger in, does that act like a shim at all or leave it out until finally assembly?
- Do you have a best practice on the inner axle oil seal installs; seems like a lot of ways but I have more faith in you as the SME to get this done right.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos, you don’t simply tell people ‘how’ as much as you tell people ‘why’ to do something and I for one am extremely grateful!
Rotational torque is set with just the pinion installed, no carrier. Just pinion rotation. Slinger on pinion must be there for torque. Slinger over bearing and just under the seal can be installed at any time. Torque measured with no seal. I have videos that show inner seal install. I use a square tube and socket long enough to reach thru the tube and tap seal in.
Hey Brian,
Thank you so much for giving us such detailed Information on overhauling the axles.
Your work is very interesting to watch and as I think easy to understand for someone who has the abilities to work on such things.
I like the way you teach this stuff without judgements or any other "taste". There are so much guys that are not able to teach things without profiling themselves.
Thank you
Hey, just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I have a 1960 CJ5 about halfway restored in the shop, and your videos have really helped! I know there are differences between the years we are working on, but many similarities. Great work my friend, keep em coming if you can :)
Glad my videos have helped you during your restoration, that was my goal, to help other restorers. I am still working on a few projects in the shop so keep watching as there are many more videos to come. If there is anything specific you would like to see just send a comment. Thanks for being a continued supporter.
So so oh so very well done. Simple yet detailed easy to understand. Love yah man. From north Michigan
Much appreciated!
Thanks for your detailed, precise videos. Really helped me with a few hangups on my Dana 27.
hey I'm wondering if you could show pressing the bearings back on the shafts? I'm curious to see how that is done safely.
Thank you getting back to me on the old 46 .the seals are in check with merrier. I can push the race & bearing flush on one side.the other side will be out about 1, 4 of inch. So I drive the other side back . Same thing .I no I can't turn the axle by hand so I even up bearing cups both sids. Then I can Turn the axle ok .now this is 1, 8 inch on both sides . Agen thank you for getting back to me
Did you ever figure out why you had so much brearing and race sticking out? I’m having the same problem.
Did I catch that right, the carrier backlash shims go between the carrier & the bearing? So any adjustments require pulling the bearing off?
Please explain how to press on bearings that have a tapered seat?
Hopefully you see this. Inherited a 69 jeepster commando only god knows what MacGyver jobs my grandfather has done to this BUT....drivers side rear axle shaft is out...now trying to slide it back in it doesn't want to spline up. I removed brake assembly then while grabbing the shaft it came out unexpectedly easy wasnt my intent to take it out. Now doesn't wanna go back in.
Also thank you very much for posting videos trying to dig up info on these is difficult. Very much appreciated
fantastic! :) thank you.
your welcome. Just let me know if there is anything else you would like to see in the future.
Your video says that you put shims on both ends of the axle is that true? I have a CJ3B and I recall the manual saying to just shim one end... What do you suggest and I'm assuming that you just use the amount of shims needed to give you the recommended play you detailed in this video? Thanks very much!
First off thanks for great videos. I have a Dana 41 rear end I am rebuilding. I got the carrier and pinion installed and went to put the axles in. On one side the bearing cup will have to be tapped in. On the passenger side, the hole is about 1 mm larger. Just large enough to slide the bearing cup in with tapping it. Is this a problem, is my housing toast?
shot in tbe dark here.. im doing a 1960 cj5 and having a problem finding the part numbers for the axle shaft seals at 6:30 min mark of your video. any resources would be greatly appreciated. thanks for the vids, very helpful!
Brad
Looks like the open side of the seal is facing away from the bearing. Is that correct?
I got new bearings in 1946 cj 2 a .now my bearings can't go in all the way .got about 1, 8 inch on both sides is this normal will the shims take care of the play . Need help.
seems like a lot of bearing cup is sticking out. Did you get your oil seal installed deep enough or could that be holding up the bearing installation?
Can you remove the rear axle bearing off of the rear axle, outward to the right or left appropriately?
Question for you...my 1960 cj5's rear dana 44 has the passenger side wheel about 1/2" further away from the body than the driver's side. It is not body alignment or anything, I have measured just about everywhere. It does have larger brake drums than stock. Have you ever seen this? Could the axle be shimmed that way or something? Thank you.
Often times one axle is shimmed and the other isn't but .500" seems excessive. Make sure your axle perch isn't worn out and that the spring center bolt is properly in place in the axle perch.
Hey! love your videos man! any way i can contact you personally for questions? thanks
you can reach me anytime at metalshaper@comcast.net
I've seen in some of your videos, and on some of my parts a discoloration on different shafts and such. I've always wondered and thought I'd ask you if that might be a result of overheating or is that just a natural result of the machining process or something else?
Hard to tell without seeing the actual part. usually shafts don't have any discoloration from machining, just overheating, but it depends on the part and the finish.
The question is how do you press the axle bearing back on without distorting it? I have a floor press and when I did my D44 bearing install I flipped it in the press and pressed the bearing in using a splitter and gradually pressed it on. When I flipped the axle back over the outer cage was distorted. So is there a trade secret or specific method to use before I mess up another set of bearings? Thank goodness Rockauto sells these bearings at a decent price.
you can use a spacer ring when installing the bearings so the outer cage isn't resting on your press blocks. You can take an old bearing and remove the outer cage and rollers and use that as a press ring. It will fit the bearing perfectly and put all the pressure on the center part of the bearing which is where you need to press from. Hope this helps you.
Brian
metalshaper Thank you Brian.
Sir mm 540 dp mahindra rear axel inner oil seal number and picture pls
Do you own all the tools you use or do you rent or borrow some of them?
I own everything in the metal workshop, wood workshop, paint workshop, sawmill, etc.... Has taken a lifetime of buying, selling, trading, etc.... acquire the tools I have to make a living.
I am impressed. Thank you for your answer. In the saga X-Men you would be Mr. Magneto. ;)
Great Videos, I'm working on a 1952 M38A1 and your videos have been a lot of help. I'm trying to install the inner axel seal, and when you knock it in, how did you do that? I'm having issues and have already deformed 1 seal. Thanks
Sean
Are you referring to the front or rear axle? The front axle i use a socket and an extension to install both sides. On the rear axle when installing the seal use a seal installer or just a round piece of steel stock a little smaller than the seal to spread the load when driving it in. Hope that helps,
Brian
I figured it out, thanks.
Saen
hello guys, i want to know how to remove the c-clip for the rear axleshaft
This is not a "C" clip rear axle, so no worries about how to get the axles out. Just nut and bolts on the axle housing and then pull the axle out. All explained in my videos.
Axle seal was kinda tough to get out on my M38, and a weird spacer that looked like it was made out of aluminum came out from behind the inner axle oil seal. Do you know what this part is ? Can't find anyone that sells it, and it does not have a name on the parts diagrams. Only one parts diagram shows the part, but no description. Metal spacer goes behind oil seal. Please help !
Mayor Fuglycool
They are supposed to be in there. Just install it before you put the seal in. They often come out when knocking out the inner seals. No big deal, just put back in place and continue as normal.
Brian
I might have damaged mine a bit ! I think they are called Axel Guides ? Thanks for the help !
Mayor Fuglycool
How did you press on the bearings ? I got them off, but the long axle is a little difficult. using a 20 ton press with bucking plates.
Mayor Fuglycool