I was taught that technique in a car, initially on a disused Airfield, a long time ago. The Instructor used to shut his eyes and if the gear change wasn't smooth he'd say " I felt that, go round again " 😊 Later when I when I started using it on a bike, luckily I never managed to lock the back wheel and throw the bike up the road, thanks to the earlier car instruction. Great video, thank you.👍
Very Important for novice riders/drivers to experiment with this technique because it increases balance and stability and allows us to stay comfortably inside the powerband . You were able to execute your overtaking manoeuvres very easily because you were always in that comfortable powerband. Again, as I've mentioned before on your channel, trials riding, preferably when your young, teaches you all about being in the right gear. Very hard to explain in a comment but your video was excellent at shinning some light onto this very important subject. Thank you, great video.
Thank you so much. What a great video. Up to now my attempts at rev matching or blipping have been very hit and miss - had watched lots of other videos on it but I didn’t really understand what I was trying to do. Watched your video last week and then yesterday did a 5 hour ride with some friends and tried out your first option step-by-step approach and it worked perfectly for me all the time (dropped revs, clutch in, drop a gear and then clutch back out at same time as bringing throttle to a higher revs position). I ended up using the technique over the whole ride - preparing for overtakes, approaching junctions and bends where I wanted to maintain my speed but be in a lower gear - made the whole ride so much smoother.
Hello,just wanted to thank you for all the informative videos you have so patiently preduced with only one aim in mind to make better safer motorcyclists out of us newbies,I myself have just passed my cbt 40 years on from riding around on a little 50cc, and I'm loving it feel 40years younger again ,our lass reckons I'm going through a mid life crisis,but so what I'm having fun again,and now especially knocking on to 60yrs I'm riding my bike again,but what has really give me the confidence are your videos,wich has helped me amensly,up to now I reckon I've watched most 3 times over,and I will again to refresh,thanks again and I'm sure I'm speaking of many you have helped in the past but also in the future to come,safe riding,
Good video with good info. For those of us with advanced electronics, a few comments: Up/down the gearbox mid bend with a GOOD quick-shifter, isn't an issue. The ECU knows the bike is leaning over and compensates for you. Equally when coming down the gearbox, the ECU can re-match for you (if you know how). On both the BMW RT and K16, light brake pressure (enough to turn the brake lights on, not enough to engage the brakes), and the ECU does not rev-match changing down the gearbox... so for example, "drag" a little rear brake going into a roundabout, and the ECU will rev-match properly without "blipping" Of course, we should not be reliant on electronic aids, because there could be scenarios the manufacturers haven't catered for, or the bike might have a faulty sensor, etc. Or the electronic aids might not be available on that year of bike. I find 3rd gear in most NSL situations on the K16 gives the flexibility that your 2nd did on the RT (different engine characteristics). The RT quick shifter is much more of a clunk than the K16 (my theory is the K16 has more cylinders, so more chance to hit the "sweet spot").
So if I understand correctly (as a motorcycle newbie), this technique is really only to be used on slippery road surfaces, otherwise using the brakes to decelerate and then selecting the appropriate gear is the way to go ?
hi, it can be used on slippery roads but also to take a lower gear for flexibility without reducing speed. But generally yes, braking and then selecting a lower gear as appropriate is the norm. All the best
As always, it's a great video, but around about 5min in, they are some give way (GW)signs with a yellow background at the junction, if these where to be covered in snow or warn the meaning the the GW upside down triangle sign becomes obsolete, and would be more of a information sign, I have seen these on advanced GW but never at a junction, what is you thoughts on this or indeed your viewers?
Thank you for informative videos , please keep it up. We need someone like you to help the motorcycle community. Hats off for your dedication and hardworking efforts.
17:33 ....I agree with screen comments....Terrible driving there. Re rev matches prior to overtakes....I like the resultant benefit of minimising loss of momentum (where appropriate). Decent vid - thanks
i close the clutch then bring the revs up as the clutch comes out. like a car. very quickly fell into the habit of using my gears very lightly along with breaks to slow down. never heavily. going round a corner with the clutch in feels wrong to me. hmm
Thanks for your comments, yes going around a corner with the clutch in would indeed be considered "wrong". Many new riders do it and turn it into a habit but of course it reduces stability and you lose the benefit of control via engine braking and throttle response
What do you think of motorcycles getting quieter? Personally I feel it puts us in even more danger. Good sound from the exhausts gives you feedback on how smooth your operating the bike. My instructor says listen to the engine and you'll know. Well thats not gonna be possible in the future.
Aprt from acceleration, it's the engine and intake roar, that you mainly hear not the the exhaust (unless it's illegally loud). My vfr and many more has a very quiet exhaust, but I hear what the engine is doing constantly. On an eV bike, knowing what the motor I'd doing, is less relevant due to no gearbox and constant torque. Interesting question.
UMM Rev matching or blipping to slow only a few miles an hour is pointless. The idea of rev matching is if you are barrelling into a corner and slam it down multiple gears at higher rpm while heavily braking on the front (as we don't use the rear - more on that) while the rear wheel is slightly lifting from the road surface. Bikes without a slipper clutch, this can cause "chatter" and coupled with any rear braking exaggerates the chatter and really doesn't make for an easy ride. for the bike you are riding, rev matching is a pointless exercise. (hang on) Why are you still using the clutch to change gear. motorcycle gearboxes use straight cut gears and don't require a clutch to change gear, up or down. BUT! Using the clutch to change down, the revs must drop off, then change gear, then drop the clutch. At THIS point, is where the engine needs to catch up with the wheel. and this is when you may? get some lock up, but NOT at lower speeds or 1 gear at a time. according to the not so efficient "advanced" riders you SHOULD be in the right gear for the correct speed in accordance with "the system". By all means teach rev matching, but do it on a decent bike at decent speeds.
Dont look pointless to me. When i started reading i thought you might have something valuable to say, tgen i read about barreling, slamming gears and stuff about decent speeds and bikes and i realised that its just keyboard warrior bravado. Thanks for your input, helpful
@@mosshague3313 My reaction, too. Like all techniques, this has its place. I don't teach it at CBT or DAS for the reasons mentioned in the video I will start to introduce it with ERS students.
Bollocks. Rev match to ensure you're in the right gear at the right revs so the engine is not accelerating or slowing the bike until you decide with the throttle, or brakes, which way you want to go. This block changing nonsense that IAM and RoSPA teach is not a good technique for smooth and controlled riding.
I think you missed the point: rev matching is not done to reduce speed, it is done to maintain speed, and gain flexibility. That is, either closing the throttle or applying the brake will slow the bike down, while opening the throttle gives a quicker acceleration than the higher gear you were in. Rev matching is not intended for "barrelling into a corner and slam it down multiple gears" Regarding potential wheel lock ups, both the RT in the video and the K16 that I ride, have a torque limiter, since they're both shaft driven, rather than having a slipper clutch. The latter will, as the name suggests, slip the clutch removing drive from the wheel, and preventing a lock up. The former, will sense the lock up is approaching, and tell the ECU to apply revs, which will also avoid the lock up (unless you're being a tool). I think your definition of "efficient" probably needs some work. "On a decent bike at decent speeds" implies that you're spending more on maintenance than I am. I don't know about you, but I get more enjoyment out of my bike when it's out on the road, than when it's in the garage having bits replaced.
@@cliveadams7629 what exactly here is bollocks please? Im not sure that block changing is nonsense, not just taught by iam and rospa but a technique that is used sometimes and has its place. if you think its not a good technique for smooth and controlled riding then youve probably been taught wrong or dont understand
I was taught that technique in a car, initially on a disused Airfield, a long time ago. The Instructor used to shut his eyes and if the gear change wasn't smooth he'd say " I felt that, go round again " 😊
Later when I when I started using it on a bike, luckily I never managed to lock the back wheel and throw the bike up the road, thanks to the earlier car instruction. Great video, thank you.👍
Very Important for novice riders/drivers to experiment with this technique because it increases balance and stability and allows us to stay comfortably inside the powerband .
You were able to execute your overtaking manoeuvres very easily because you were always in that comfortable powerband.
Again, as I've mentioned before on your channel, trials riding, preferably when your young, teaches you all about being in the right gear.
Very hard to explain in a comment but your video was excellent at shinning some light onto this very important subject.
Thank you, great video.
Thank you so much. What a great video. Up to now my attempts at rev matching or blipping have been very hit and miss - had watched lots of other videos on it but I didn’t really understand what I was trying to do. Watched your video last week and then yesterday did a 5 hour ride with some friends and tried out your first option step-by-step approach and it worked perfectly for me all the time (dropped revs, clutch in, drop a gear and then clutch back out at same time as bringing throttle to a higher revs position). I ended up using the technique over the whole ride - preparing for overtakes, approaching junctions and bends where I wanted to maintain my speed but be in a lower gear - made the whole ride so much smoother.
Hello,just wanted to thank you for all the informative videos you have so patiently preduced with only one aim in mind to make better safer motorcyclists out of us newbies,I myself have just passed my cbt 40 years on from riding around on a little 50cc, and I'm loving it feel 40years younger again ,our lass reckons I'm going through a mid life crisis,but so what I'm having fun again,and now especially knocking on to 60yrs I'm riding my bike again,but what has really give me the confidence are your videos,wich has helped me amensly,up to now I reckon I've watched most 3 times over,and I will again to refresh,thanks again and I'm sure I'm speaking of many you have helped in the past but also in the future to come,safe riding,
thank you for watching, glad the videos are of some use and that you are enjoying your biking. keep safe, all the best
Good video with good info.
For those of us with advanced electronics, a few comments: Up/down the gearbox mid bend with a GOOD quick-shifter, isn't an issue. The ECU knows the bike is leaning over and compensates for you. Equally when coming down the gearbox, the ECU can re-match for you (if you know how). On both the BMW RT and K16, light brake pressure (enough to turn the brake lights on, not enough to engage the brakes), and the ECU does not rev-match changing down the gearbox... so for example, "drag" a little rear brake going into a roundabout, and the ECU will rev-match properly without "blipping"
Of course, we should not be reliant on electronic aids, because there could be scenarios the manufacturers haven't catered for, or the bike might have a faulty sensor, etc. Or the electronic aids might not be available on that year of bike.
I find 3rd gear in most NSL situations on the K16 gives the flexibility that your 2nd did on the RT (different engine characteristics). The RT quick shifter is much more of a clunk than the K16 (my theory is the K16 has more cylinders, so more chance to hit the "sweet spot").
Beautiful...! Thank you!
Always enjoy your content. Thanks.
So if I understand correctly (as a motorcycle newbie), this technique is really only to be used on slippery road surfaces, otherwise using the brakes to decelerate and then selecting the appropriate gear is the way to go ?
hi, it can be used on slippery roads but also to take a lower gear for flexibility without reducing speed. But generally yes, braking and then selecting a lower gear as appropriate is the norm. All the best
@@MotorcyclePWR Thanks very much for the reply.🙂
As always, it's a great video, but around about 5min in, they are some give way (GW)signs with a yellow background at the junction, if these where to be covered in snow or warn the meaning the the GW upside down triangle sign becomes obsolete, and would be more of a information sign, I have seen these on advanced GW but never at a junction, what is you thoughts on this or indeed your viewers?
Thank you for informative videos , please keep it up. We need someone like you to help the motorcycle community. Hats off for your dedication and hardworking efforts.
17:33 ....I agree with screen comments....Terrible driving there.
Re rev matches prior to overtakes....I like the resultant benefit of minimising loss of momentum (where appropriate).
Decent vid - thanks
thanks AW8, all the best
@@MotorcyclePWR 👍👋
Very informative, thanks for the video.
i close the clutch then bring the revs up as the clutch comes out. like a car. very quickly fell into the habit of using my gears very lightly along with breaks to slow down. never heavily. going round a corner with the clutch in feels wrong to me. hmm
Thanks for your comments, yes going around a corner with the clutch in would indeed be considered "wrong".
Many new riders do it and turn it into a habit but of course it reduces stability and you lose the benefit of control via engine braking and throttle response
What do you think of motorcycles getting quieter? Personally I feel it puts us in even more danger. Good sound from the exhausts gives you feedback on how smooth your operating the bike.
My instructor says listen to the engine and you'll know. Well thats not gonna be possible in the future.
i do think some sound is a positive. Rode an electric bike a while back, not for me! Seemed quite soulless.
Aprt from acceleration, it's the engine and intake roar, that you mainly hear not the the exhaust (unless it's illegally loud). My vfr and many more has a very quiet exhaust, but I hear what the engine is doing constantly. On an eV bike, knowing what the motor I'd doing, is less relevant due to no gearbox and constant torque. Interesting question.
UMM Rev matching or blipping to slow only a few miles an hour is pointless. The idea of rev matching is if you are barrelling into a corner and slam it down multiple gears at higher rpm while heavily braking on the front (as we don't use the rear - more on that) while the rear wheel is slightly lifting from the road surface. Bikes without a slipper clutch, this can cause "chatter" and coupled with any rear braking exaggerates the chatter and really doesn't make for an easy ride.
for the bike you are riding, rev matching is a pointless exercise. (hang on) Why are you still using the clutch to change gear. motorcycle gearboxes use straight cut gears and don't require a clutch to change gear, up or down. BUT! Using the clutch to change down, the revs must drop off, then change gear, then drop the clutch. At THIS point, is where the engine needs to catch up with the wheel. and this is when you may? get some lock up, but NOT at lower speeds or 1 gear at a time.
according to the not so efficient "advanced" riders you SHOULD be in the right gear for the correct speed in accordance with "the system".
By all means teach rev matching, but do it on a decent bike at decent speeds.
Dont look pointless to me.
When i started reading i thought you might have something valuable to say, tgen i read about barreling, slamming gears and stuff about decent speeds and bikes and i realised that its just keyboard warrior bravado. Thanks for your input, helpful
@@mosshague3313 My reaction, too. Like all techniques, this has its place. I don't teach it at CBT or DAS for the reasons mentioned in the video I will start to introduce it with ERS students.
Bollocks. Rev match to ensure you're in the right gear at the right revs so the engine is not accelerating or slowing the bike until you decide with the throttle, or brakes, which way you want to go. This block changing nonsense that IAM and RoSPA teach is not a good technique for smooth and controlled riding.
I think you missed the point: rev matching is not done to reduce speed, it is done to maintain speed, and gain flexibility. That is, either closing the throttle or applying the brake will slow the bike down, while opening the throttle gives a quicker acceleration than the higher gear you were in.
Rev matching is not intended for "barrelling into a corner and slam it down multiple gears"
Regarding potential wheel lock ups, both the RT in the video and the K16 that I ride, have a torque limiter, since they're both shaft driven, rather than having a slipper clutch. The latter will, as the name suggests, slip the clutch removing drive from the wheel, and preventing a lock up. The former, will sense the lock up is approaching, and tell the ECU to apply revs, which will also avoid the lock up (unless you're being a tool).
I think your definition of "efficient" probably needs some work. "On a decent bike at decent speeds" implies that you're spending more on maintenance than I am. I don't know about you, but I get more enjoyment out of my bike when it's out on the road, than when it's in the garage having bits replaced.
@@cliveadams7629 what exactly here is bollocks please? Im not sure that block changing is nonsense, not just taught by iam and rospa but a technique that is used sometimes and has its place. if you think its not a good technique for smooth and controlled riding then youve probably been taught wrong or dont understand