After 40 years as a industrial electrician I have mad 100's of extension cords or devices with cord ends. One thing I quickly learned was that if you can read the printing on the cord properly left to right then the male plug end goes on the left end. This is so the wires don't criss cross inside the cord end. This is 99.9% accurate.
I'm not an electrician, but I know quite a bit about making various kinds of power and date cords mainly for the entertainment industry and knowing which plug goes on each end is honestly the most useful thing to know. especially when you have cables with anywhere from 3 to 19 pins getting the wrong end sucks having to cross it over. I'm still not perfect and out of the thousands of cables I have made over the years I have screwed up with lining up the correct side to the correct plug more times than I would like to admit.
This and that the wires (and presumably plugs and outlets) are handed is something I wish I’d appreciated decades ago. I guess this explains white sometimes wiring a new plug goes easier than other times. I have a few to make up so will be checking this out. Thanks.
I made an electrical power block like this, but it has 3 gangs: AFCI/GFCI and USB and regular receptacle. Additionally, it has a LCDI cord to protect the entire cord in case it gets damaged, unlike GFCI protected cords that only trip if a ground fault occurs. Even more, it has a weather resistant cover for all the outlets. It also has a 15-amp breaker button. Both your power block, and my power block, are super beefy. The 3-gang covers are very difficult to find, but they exist. The metal power blocks are *seriously built to last.*
I finished mine today. The diameter if my cable was small than yours so I found the right size at McMaster-Carr. I used black epoxy to paint over the light sensor in the GFCI so the light would stay on all the time. Thanks for this idea.
Wow, that's a super tip at 4:50 -ish about orientation of the wires and switching ends of the cable. I probably would have crossed them (cut the jacket deeper to get the wires where they needed to go) on the end I started on, and maybe that's wrong. Fortunately, I am watching your video (and a ton of others) ahead of my first project. That's a little thing that I could have come up with if I really thought about it, but probably in the moment wouldn't have taken the time (well, known I needed to think that hard about it). Lard knows I overthink everything else lol
Couple of things. You're using a 12 ga. cord, you could use 20-amp outlets. And get the industrial type, much better "innards". And two, you never, ever, disconnect a cord by pulling on the cable.
I really appreciated you showing us the wrong end of the cord and forgetting to put the housing on first, both mistakes I've made before and at risk to make again.
Great video, very well done. But after watching you put so much emphasis on safety while building this extension cord, I was a bit surprised when, near the end of the video, I watched you pull the plug out of the extension box by yanking on the cord! This often bends the prongs - and possibly loosens the electrical connection.
Not a bad build. I would swap the rain covers, for a bellows expanding in use coverplate, so you can safely use the cord in the rain. A side benefit is the clear cover will allow the nite light to be visible in the dark, and allow it to shut off during the day.
I was just making one of these tonight and thought your design is great. I'm no expert, but the only thing I would do differently is put a rubber grommet on the hole at the bottom of the bucket to prevent wear and tear. Thanks for the education.
Just get rid of the bucket all together. All you need is a velcro cable tie at the plug end to hold it together. You shouldn't have cable all coiled up without airflow as it can heat up under high amperage continuous draws. Having that excess cable in a bucket derates your conductors by 50% amperage as noted in Table 310.15(C)(1) of the NEC.
Great video! Best box I've seen so far! Clearly and well explained. I made one a while back after "Stud Pack's" design (I noticed you referenced him too) and it serves me very well. But I think after seeing this one, it may be time for a redesign. I really like your "anti-snag" base. The only difference for me might be leaving off weather proof doors as I really wont need them (but can keep them handy for future use if ever needed). Also, I used 20A outlets (very similar to your 15A versions). I can simply transfer from my current box to the new one. Just had another thought - will use 1/2" HDPE cutting board from Dollar Store rather than plywood base. I think it will hold up somewhat better than plywood in the areas I'll use it. I like this box! Great job!
Instead of the "cutting board"... (15 yr chef: you should never cut on plastic, marble, granite, glass, or hardwood/bamboo if you care about your blades. The only acceptable cutting board is a soft wood one, preferably a block from multiple pieces that are oriented end-up when assembled 👍) ... You could also use one or few (glued together with fire resistant adhesive or bolted) of the "self-healing cut mats" they also sell there at Dollar Tree. This will take corner-checks and angled drops hundreds of times over without cracking, unlike the cut boards that shatter with corner drops and flexed forces. 💡
WOW! That alignment tip!? Never heard before I am now wondering if cable over here is the same? I have always just bent the wires over. Glad you also forget the end! Bob England
A better way to remove outer insulation is to score it lengthwise for the length you need without cutting all the way through. You only cut through completely at the end, which you will either end up cutting off entirely or at least stripping insulation from the inner conductors, so minor nicks to the inner insulation aren't a concern. At the other end of the slit, score a perpendicular line all the way around. Then *PEEL* the insulation off, it will break along the slits where the insulation is weakest. You'll also have something to hang onto when peeling around the radial slit. This guarantees you won't cut into the inner insulation nor weaken anything with too sharp a bend radius. A very sharp knife is mandatory (I like Olfa black "ultra sharp" break-away blades). Thanks for the video! I just built two exactly to your specs (mainly to endanger the lives of all the OSHA armchair quarterbacks).
I really enjoy your channel! I’ve been a subscriber for a while. I return frequently to refresh my mind on clever tips and tricks! I have this handyman book from the 80’s with hand drawn pics of insane simple ideas 💡!
Amazing video and I especially like the bucket idea! I bought the items to make one of these after watching studpack's video but I'll be upgrading a few parts. Specifically the aluminum box and the outlet with usb built in. Thanks for posting this!
Was thinking about building one of these to run power to my car port so I can put in some over head lights and plug in my pellet grill, stuff that wont be in use full time. I have a GFCI port about 20 feet from my car port and want something dual use. I like your design and is fairly straight forward and water proof, plus all the links are dang helpful. Just have to find cable and decide how much I want to buy.
Ive always wanted to make one of these. I didnt really understand the drawing. So i guess id like the see the wire job in more detail. Thanks. I need this waterproof power dealio.
Stud Pack is that you? I swear this is an exact replay of Stud Packs video. Do we all have an inherited extension cord? Lol I have one as well, I made a similar extension cord with one USB GFCI and one standard Commerical 20a outlet With a manual reset (in line gfci) on the male end that's wired in and water resistant, So you can't do a fancy led plug (well, i guess you could, but you're going to have to cut your inline)
Enjoyed your video. I noticed on the drawing you did shows 3 wago nuts and you only used 1 to tie up the grounds. 10:58 You didn’t use the 2 other wago nuts while building the box. Are the other 2 wago nuts necessary?
I melted a cord wound in a coil, but it was around a sheet metal core , no core it still developed a magnetic field which may be no problem under normal use 👌🏻👏🏻👍🏻
Nicely done. But pulling on the cord to remove the plug from the receptacle? And, as a suggestion, the quick formula for determining the amount of conductor you need from the supply in the bucket. You know, the diameter of the bucket x 3 (to make it simple) per loop. Or maybe, a mark of some kind (tape, bright magic marker, etc) every 3 ft on the conductor. BTW, Some of the older products were made from better quality materials as you well know, but nice when available.
Hi, great video... I have a question for you... Is there any concern about the safety of an aged cord... Such as the outer shell being cracked and a bit brittle?
That’s definitely worth looking at. This one at least was still soft and free of cuts and issues but each cord should be checked before doing a project like this. The better cords can stay in good shape for ages.
bend the cord sharply over on itself then squeeze it. (like he did for trimming the outer jacket) If you hear crunching sounds it's dry cracked internally.
One change I would make is leaving enough wood to cut a handhold on the board. Easier to carry and you can hang it on the wall with a nail. That said, this is NOT a UL approved device or approved by OSHA for a commercial job site. Oh, one more thing... do not feed a cord through a hole in a bucket. Cords like this must have free flowing air to stay cool and if used while coiled up in a bucket they may get hotter than you think.
@@davecarsley8773 ... this is not a REPAIRED cord. This is a built from scratch deal, which someone from OSHA might have an issue with... not your local building inspector.
@@rupe53 OSHA does allow these cords as long as EVERY component used is listed for it's intended use. The biggest fail with these home jobbies is the box itself. Most of the boxes used in these homemade quad boxes are listed for permanent install and not for portable use. That's a code violation right there. Hubble and Leviton do make portable listed boxes but are very expensive. Inspectors will kick out any of these quad boxes that use the metal boxes with knockouts, this one doesn't have knock outs but isn't listed for portable use so 50/50 whether you get called on it or not.
@@wally7856 I'm with ya here on the 50/50 bit. The flip side is any serious DIY type can make or use one of these and never seen an inspector so no worries if done nicely.
@@rupe53 Oh ya, use these for sure. I have about a dozen of these (sound guy) and once you use these, you'll never grab your extension cord again. These are all I use in my garage (and on stage).
It's a little bulky, but I think I'd want an in-use bubble cover so I could plug something in, close the cover, and use it in the rain without tripping the GFCI. As safe as GFCIs make our work, as an electrician who works in the rain (kinda tough to avoid when it rains over 200 days per year) I want to avoid a wet cord end keeping me from using power tools.
Rather than taping, I refer to drive in unused screws so they don’t stick out. Since you haven’t mounted the outlets before the first test, I’d plug the tester into the gfci before plugging into power.
Having just subscribed when you talked about uk plugs.All I see now is the week link which is the plug/skt. Not much you can do about that in your country though.
Don't see this mentioned so what about making it completely from scratch. What exact type wire (12/3 heavy duty yet still pliable) should one purchase?
Light duty use (sjoow) or (sjow), heavy duty use (soow) or (sow). (s) stands for service (o) stands for oil resistant outer jacket (oo) stands for oil resistant outer and inner jacket (sj) stands for junior service use. Good up to 300v (600v is standard) and has a thinner jacket The sj is good for anything that doesn't get run over or high traffic and is much lighter and easier to coil and lays flat on the ground and takes up much less space. The standard cable is thick like garden hose and is much heavier and harder to coil and bulkier and doesn't always lay flat on the ground. Your needs may vary but some construction sites and things like theater or stages may require you to use the regular s cable instead of the sj cable. You should be able to see both types at home depot or the like. I can't read the writing on the cable in the video but it looks to be sow or soow by how thick the jacket is. sjoow is much much thinner cable and easier to work with.
Here's another idea for the covers. Instead of using the flat weather cover, use the kind that allows you to close it when stuff is plugged in. And it might also be good if you get that GFCI extension cord that plugs into the wall, get one that also has a good surge protector on it because if you are a contractor, you never know what the power quality of the worksite is going to be and you don't need a bad power surge coming through and destroying tools or batteries you are charging costing you even more money to replace them.
Couldn't you just install an AFCI+GFCI combo receptacle on the line end in the box, also protecting the second receptacle in series? Correct me if I'm wrong, but an AFCI should detect the change in current from a surge and trip...
Maybe it's called 12/3 because it's portable wire. MC cable has insulated ground wire, but it's still called 12/2 if the other 2 wires are black and white.
I will not point out the janking of the plug out by the cord , others already had, But you should wrap tape over the Wagos levers to secure them. Pushing the outlet back into the box ; coiling of the wire could pop open one or more of the levers.
@@LRN2DIY This is from the OSHA page you referenced. “The GFCI equipped cord set assembly or the GFCI equipped portable tool assembly must, as a complete unit, be approved as required by 1926.403(a) in accordance with the definition given in 1926.449.” So, are you saying you are getting your extension cord assembly tested and listed? I’m thinking not.
Those outlet testers are not able to do the most important test, polarity, if you have your phase and neutral wires backwards ( hot and return I think you called them) they will still show the correct voltage etc. To test this you need to have an independent earth ( a metal rod pushed into the ground will do the job) then connect that to one end of your voltage/multi meter then use the other end of your meter to test the socket. You will get the voltage on your hot/phase you should get nothing on the neutral/return and the same with the earth/ground
Those receptacles are self grounding. Since your box is metal, connect the ground to the box only and the receptacles will be grounded thru their yokes.
Usually, yes. The problem is that there are some receptacles that have grounds isolated from the yoke. Not common but they do exist. Someone way in the future might replace one of the outlets. When they do, you want them to see that ground wire hanging loose and to hook it up. That way all outlet types are considered.
Isolated ground receptacles are well marked and it would be hard to confuse them. Special receptacle may have an orange face with a small green triangle or a white face with a small orange triangle.
The doors to the receptacle's open the wrong way. The point of an extension cord is to extend. That means in and out. Your doors block the out direction.
When you were stripping the wire, I noticed that the conducters had that dull, corroded, moisture has wicked in there at some time in the past look. Why didn't you cut off a little more wire and get back to the clean copper?
There is another video, that I watched and what I have found, after a month of using this method is: The receptacles should be orientated so their load lines pull in the opposite direction as the line wire. This will pull line tension along the same path as apposed to flipping the box, rubbing the load wire (on a surface), because all tension, as shown) comes from one side when tension should come from two sides.
Not sure using that plastic fitting ideal for rough housing that box, a metal and rubber compression fitting is better. And also use that spare cord wire so the reciprocals fit easier
Cascading GFCI's could be problematic there's selectivity there's other reasons but I guess what they really want is to protect the cable which I think stems from an OSHA requirement for job sites. I guess you really weren't worried with cutting down all that length it pains me every time. Yeah that might not be manageable but I'm going you know you always get that cord and it's always at three feet short problem. I have seen and tried many different chord ranking techniques over the years. They don't recommend the group method it permanently twists the cord and makes it a tripping hazard see over the arm death by extension cord to extension cord it's worse. The bucket is not too bad although the bend radius of that cable is a little out of spec for it. Cable reels aren't too bad although they're not gonna work with heavier cords. Cable reel with a handle spool thing with outlets on it works pretty good again not for that cord, I have one of these and it's nice and convenient but all of my other cords in the bean wrap differently. Which leads me to the overunder broadcast technique not only does it keep the cord from internally twisting creating a trip hazard a small loop of rope to secure it and it doesn't tangle. Unless you accidentally get one of the ends through the middle.
People will say its not needed, but I always build my extension cords with 10 Ga. Wire...Sure, its a little more expensive, but its heavier duty, and has less current loss when it comes to length. I also.only use Hubbell for my connectors. 😮
I enjoyed the vid. Good information and presentation. I would note a couple things. Your hand/knife positions at 3:02 when cutting that paper is really bad form. It is just asking for the blade to slip and slice your other hand. You also might want to know that the 'K' is not silent in Knipex. It is pronounced Kuh-nip-x. Knipex even sells T-shirts that explicitly state the correct pronunciation. They are a German company and German does not use a silent k.
I love learning about ways I can improve so I appreciate the feedback on both the knife handling and the kuh-nip-x. I've been saying that wrong for years and I do try to look up pronunciations of most things but missed that one. Thanks again for sharing and for watching!
Great video. The end sockets seem far more complicated than we have over here, I don’t follow why yours are so awkward. We also don’t talk gauges etc it’s just 3 core extension cable to us, one may have it in white or black so tricky as the ladies will always want the ‘other’ one! I have not noticed your little standup routine before………wondering if I can get back to that state?? Lol 😂 Love the plywood thingy however the bucket I must be missing something as seems more trouble? Bob England
@@JohnSmith-qi6co no, but the pack would say suitable for………..XYZ and that’s all we need to know. We just don’t have gauges in our heads like you guys seem too? This is from a DIY position of course I don’t know what the pro’s do. Bob
The bare ground copper wires ought to be fitted with sleeves indicating ground to be safest. Wago terminals could also be replaced with more robust connectors. Otherwise a pretty neat setup!
Thank you for showing people how to endanger people's lives. There's a reason these death traps are not OSHA approved. I especially love the statements you made about taking to a job site and using in the mud. This thing is a huge OSHA fine if you are caught and having the GFCI device in the box doesn't protect you from shock if the box comes in contact with water. People if you make these thingies keep them indoors and not on jobsites. PS: the GFCI cord you plugged in to at the end doesn't make your cord compliant just makes it safer.
It is a listing and labeling citation, and putting a gfci onto something that is already gfci protected can cause the gfci to malfunction and not worth.
@@danhartman9087 I know they make arc fault breakers not sure about receptacles. Either way it would not make a difference to OSHA. They go by the UL listing for equipment and NEC. Now you could make one of these with a pendulum box ( a box designed for this task) but you need to follow the manufacturer instructions (OSHA will also reference). Use just one GFCI ( one will cover multiple other outlets) and as long as it follows the codes be ok with it.
@@danhartman9087 An AFCI devise recognizes arc flashes by listening to "noise" introduced to the line during an arc flash. AC motors with brushes often false trip AFCI devices because the arc on the brushes makes the same type of noise on the line. Since this is a work type box, AC motors are probably plugged into these boxes often making AFCI devices a bad choice to use in this type of situation.
@SuperVstech - The wires were still connected to the correct terminals but there's an order to them that lines up perfectly for each end. It's not a big deal to use the other end, you just have to move the cords around to wire them correctly.
AC .... "alternating" current .. there is no forwards or backwards at least if you're not using 3 phase..oh wait i dont even know if the muricahs use 3 phases at all.. in fact i dont know what they use at all, over here we either have Live, Neutral, Ground or Phase 1, 2, 3, Neutral and Ground.
Better check if a venue allows DIY cords like this. I was a a convention in San Jose with specifc restrictions about 10 years ago. I think DIY anything electrical was disallowed.
@@jeffriley-lq5np Interesting. I can't remember since it was over a decade ago but the instructions at the convention center in San Jose (Santa Clara County Fairgrounds in Pleasanton) had pretty severe restrictions about drop cords or what's attached to them in a booth. I'm sure either the vendor or the events company will take a good look to avoid unnecessary extra work setting up.
As an electrician seeing you use uninsulated or bare copper wire made all my alarm bells go off big time. I know they are just ground BUT in two situations they are live and since the box is metal, YES aluminium is very much conductive, you would get shocked. Sit 1, faulty equipment sending power to ground. Sit 2, one or more of the bare copper touching one of the terminals inside as you put it all together or if the box got smacked around enough.
That's the "entire" purpose of the safety ground. Short out any hot to chassis situations and trip the breaker. We always use bare copper for ground in North America.
the box may get charged, but it will all go to ground back at the source. This also protects you if say a hot wire accidentally touches the box internally.
That's the "entire" purpose of the safety ground - short out any potentially hot to chassis situations and trip the breaker. Without the ground attached to the chassis, a hot could make contact and electrify the chassis creating a hazard for the user. If you don't have a metal chassis, you don't have any purpose for a safety ground and one is not needed. Appliances with plastic cases for example often are only 2 prong because they don't need a safety ground. The whole purpose of the ground is to ground to metal chassis/boxes.
Please be advised that ALL extension cords sold are required to be tested and listed. NEC does not address these because they are not part of a premise wiring system. But, do not ever loan it out or let some use it. Lawyers would love a lawsuit if something would happen to them. You absolutely can not use this on any job site. As you pointed out in another comment, “The GFCI equipped cord set assembly or the GFCI equipped portable tool assembly must, as a complete unit, be approved as required by 1926.403(a) in accordance with the definition given in 1926.449.” This cord does not comply. Also, with the exception of the replacement cord cap, none of the other components are tested or labeled for making extension cords. So, you need to keep this cord for your use only. Respectfully, Kevin
www(dot)osha(dot)gov/laws-regs/standardinterpretations/1992-03-03 OSHA does allow these cords for "temporary" power as long as ALL components used are listed as such. The biggest fail with these home jobbie quad boxes are the box itself. Most are listed for permanent install and not portable use. Hubbel and Leviton do make portable boxes that are listed for portable use if anyone is looking.
I think a FS/FD cast box is allowed, what you don't want is a quad box with knockouts. Of course, a rubber portable outlet box is what you should buy, if you have the money, because it is safer.
@@wally7856 Please read it again. “Only if constructed at that job site”. Direct from your referenced interpretation: Normally, equipment must be approved as an assembly by a nationally recognized testing laboratory before it would be acceptable under the General Industry or Construction Electrical Standards (Part 1910, Subpart S and Part 1926, Subpart K, respectively). In the case of cord sets used in construction, it is common for them to be assembled in the field by electrical contractors. It should be noted that OSHA interprets cord sets as being temporary wiring extensions of the branch circuit. As such, temporary electrical power and lighting wiring methods, as specifically modified in 1926.405(a)(2) and 1910.305(a)(2), may be of a class less than that required for a permanent installation. Thus, temporary electrical power and lighting installations are permitted during the period of construction, remodeling, maintenance, repair or demolition of buildings, structures, equipment, or similar activities. In addition, temporary wiring must be removed immediately upon completion of construction or purpose for which the wiring was installed. When the temporary wiring consists of shop-made cord sets, self-fabricated lighting installations, emergency or experimental wiring etc., as permitted by 1926.405(a)(2) and 1910.305(a)(2) to be assembled and installed at the work site using approved parts, the requirement for listing by a nationally recognized test laboratory does not apply. If a factory-manufactured temporary wiring assembly, such as ready-made extension cords, temporary lighting strings (UL-1088), "on-the-spot" emergency lighting, etc., is desired, then the prefabricated temporary wiring assembly to be installed must be of a type that a nationally recognized testing laboratory accepts, certifies, lists, labels, or determines to be safe.
@@MrObsvenchilde Read this OSHA interpretation. Read carefully. Normally, equipment must be approved as an assembly by a nationally recognized testing laboratory before it would be acceptable under the General Industry or Construction Electrical Standards (Part 1910, Subpart S and Part 1926, Subpart K, respectively). In the case of cord sets used in construction, it is common for them to be assembled in the field by electrical contractors. It should be noted that OSHA interprets cord sets as being temporary wiring extensions of the branch circuit. As such, temporary electrical power and lighting wiring methods, as specifically modified in 1926.405(a)(2) and 1910.305(a)(2), may be of a class less than that required for a permanent installation. Thus, temporary electrical power and lighting installations are permitted during the period of construction, remodeling, maintenance, repair or demolition of buildings, structures, equipment, or similar activities. In addition, temporary wiring must be removed immediately upon completion of construction or purpose for which the wiring was installed. When the temporary wiring consists of shop-made cord sets, self-fabricated lighting installations, emergency or experimental wiring etc., as permitted by 1926.405(a)(2) and 1910.305(a)(2) to be assembled and installed at the work site using approved parts, the requirement for listing by a nationally recognized test laboratory does not apply. If a factory-manufactured temporary wiring assembly, such as ready-made extension cords, temporary lighting strings (UL-1088), "on-the-spot" emergency lighting, etc., is desired, then the prefabricated temporary wiring assembly to be installed must be of a type that a nationally recognized testing laboratory accepts, certifies, lists, labels, or determines to be safe.
@@KevinCoop1 It's the whole "using approved parts" -ie: listed for intended purpose that I thought was worth mentioning. I don't use my boxes in construction however I do pro sound and quad boxes are the staple we use to provide power to a stage from our distro. Every pro audio company uses shop made boxes and most of them "could" potentially be rejected during an inspection based on the fact that the boxes themselves were originally listed for permanent install and not portable. Just wanted to give viewers a heads up of potential future problems if they do pro work. I don't know of anyone who has been called out on it (in pro audio) as there weren't any other alternatives available but now that Hubbel and Leviton make listed boxes I can see inspectors in the future steering their requirements that way.
After 40 years as a industrial electrician I have mad 100's of extension cords or devices with cord ends. One thing I quickly learned was that if you can read the printing on the cord properly left to right then the male plug end goes on the left end. This is so the wires don't criss cross inside the cord end. This is 99.9% accurate.
Thanks for sharing your experience, sir
I'm not an electrician, but I know quite a bit about making various kinds of power and date cords mainly for the entertainment industry and knowing which plug goes on each end is honestly the most useful thing to know. especially when you have cables with anywhere from 3 to 19 pins getting the wrong end sucks having to cross it over. I'm still not perfect and out of the thousands of cables I have made over the years I have screwed up with lining up the correct side to the correct plug more times than I would like to admit.
This and that the wires (and presumably plugs and outlets) are handed is something I wish I’d appreciated decades ago. I guess this explains white sometimes wiring a new plug goes easier than other times. I have a few to make up so will be checking this out. Thanks.
I made an electrical power block like this, but it has 3 gangs: AFCI/GFCI and USB and regular receptacle. Additionally, it has a LCDI cord to protect the entire cord in case it gets damaged, unlike GFCI protected cords that only trip if a ground fault occurs. Even more, it has a weather resistant cover for all the outlets. It also has a 15-amp breaker button. Both your power block, and my power block, are super beefy. The 3-gang covers are very difficult to find, but they exist. The metal power blocks are *seriously built to last.*
I finished mine today. The diameter if my cable was small than yours so I found the right size at McMaster-Carr. I used black epoxy to paint over the light sensor in the GFCI so the light would stay on all the time. Thanks for this idea.
As soon as I started watching, I thought 'Stud Pack' just recently did something like that. And then you mentioned them. Cool. Great ideas!
And I'm glad you made the reference to Paul/Stud Pack. He deserved the credit and that sort of credit is sorely and frequently missing on YT.
Alright Gang, I'll watch the rest of this one
That box is saying "Errrrrmmm what da sigma" lol its a sigma
Wow, that's a super tip at 4:50 -ish about orientation of the wires and switching ends of the cable.
I probably would have crossed them (cut the jacket deeper to get the wires where they needed to go) on the end I started on, and maybe that's wrong.
Fortunately, I am watching your video (and a ton of others) ahead of my first project. That's a little thing that I could have come up with if I really thought about it, but probably in the moment wouldn't have taken the time (well, known I needed to think that hard about it). Lard knows I overthink everything else lol
Couple of things. You're using a 12 ga. cord, you could use 20-amp outlets. And get the industrial type, much better "innards". And two, you never, ever, disconnect a cord by pulling on the cable.
My thoughts exactly...what a waste of power and capability.
I did not know about the left or right thing regarding cords. Thanks for teaching an old dog new tricks.
I really appreciated you showing us the wrong end of the cord and forgetting to put the housing on first, both mistakes I've made before and at risk to make again.
Dude, I absolutely love this video! Thank you for taking the time in making it. I shall use your wisdom. Thank you.
Great video, very well done. But after watching you put so much emphasis on safety while building this extension cord, I was a bit surprised when, near the end of the video, I watched you pull the plug out of the extension box by yanking on the cord! This often bends the prongs - and possibly loosens the electrical connection.
Imagine if he forgot to cut the other male plug off, then he would have made a Suicide cord lol
Not a bad build.
I would swap the rain covers, for a bellows expanding in use coverplate, so you can safely use the cord in the rain. A side benefit is the clear cover will allow the nite light to be visible in the dark, and allow it to shut off during the day.
Perfect! I’ve watched a few of these extension cord vids and yours is best. Thank you
I was just making one of these tonight and thought your design is great. I'm no expert, but the only thing I would do differently is put a rubber grommet on the hole at the bottom of the bucket to prevent wear and tear. Thanks for the education.
Just get rid of the bucket all together. All you need is a velcro cable tie at the plug end to hold it together. You shouldn't have cable all coiled up without airflow as it can heat up under high amperage continuous draws. Having that excess cable in a bucket derates your conductors by 50% amperage as noted in Table 310.15(C)(1) of the NEC.
Thanks for this video, I converted a old cord into something very useful
Great video! Best box I've seen so far! Clearly and well explained. I made one a while back after "Stud Pack's" design (I noticed you referenced him too) and it serves me very well. But I think after seeing this one, it may be time for a redesign. I really like your "anti-snag" base. The only difference for me might be leaving off weather proof doors as I really wont need them (but can keep them handy for future use if ever needed). Also, I used 20A outlets (very similar to your 15A versions). I can simply transfer from my current box to the new one. Just had another thought - will use 1/2" HDPE cutting board from Dollar Store rather than plywood base. I think it will hold up somewhat better than plywood in the areas I'll use it. I like this box! Great job!
Thanks, Dan! Great thoughts and I bet that HDPE will really slide well along the floor as needed too.
Instead of the "cutting board"...
(15 yr chef: you should never cut on plastic, marble, granite, glass, or hardwood/bamboo if you care about your blades. The only acceptable cutting board is a soft wood one, preferably a block from multiple pieces that are oriented end-up when assembled 👍)
... You could also use one or few (glued together with fire resistant adhesive or bolted) of the "self-healing cut mats" they also sell there at Dollar Tree. This will take corner-checks and angled drops hundreds of times over without cracking, unlike the cut boards that shatter with corner drops and flexed forces.
💡
Stud Pack guys are so cool
I watched both of stud packs extension cord videos, great channel
Made cords in the ‘80’s but used button breakers mounted in the box- no fancy receptacle back then. 12/3 cords
WOW! That alignment tip!? Never heard before I am now wondering if cable over here is the same? I have always just bent the wires over.
Glad you also forget the end!
Bob
England
A better way to remove outer insulation is to score it lengthwise for the length you need without cutting all the way through. You only cut through completely at the end, which you will either end up cutting off entirely or at least stripping insulation from the inner conductors, so minor nicks to the inner insulation aren't a concern. At the other end of the slit, score a perpendicular line all the way around. Then *PEEL* the insulation off, it will break along the slits where the insulation is weakest. You'll also have something to hang onto when peeling around the radial slit. This guarantees you won't cut into the inner insulation nor weaken anything with too sharp a bend radius. A very sharp knife is mandatory (I like Olfa black "ultra sharp" break-away blades). Thanks for the video! I just built two exactly to your specs (mainly to endanger the lives of all the OSHA armchair quarterbacks).
I really enjoy your channel! I’ve been a subscriber for a while. I return frequently to refresh my mind on clever tips and tricks! I have this handyman book from the 80’s with hand drawn pics of insane simple ideas 💡!
Amazing video and I especially like the bucket idea! I bought the items to make one of these after watching studpack's video but I'll be upgrading a few parts. Specifically the aluminum box and the outlet with usb built in. Thanks for posting this!
There are videos on here that add utility to the bucket idea by making it a large spool, easily operated with a drill. 💡👍
Just make sure you put a grommet or c-channel in the hole so you don't wear your insulation jacket out.
Was thinking about building one of these to run power to my car port so I can put in some over head lights and plug in my pellet grill, stuff that wont be in use full time. I have a GFCI port about 20 feet from my car port and want something dual use. I like your design and is fairly straight forward and water proof, plus all the links are dang helpful. Just have to find cable and decide how much I want to buy.
Why did you use Wagos on the input to the GFCI? The GFCI has screw plates so the stranded wire should make a good connection there.
Ive always wanted to make one of these. I didnt really understand the drawing. So i guess id like the see the wire job in more detail. Thanks. I need this waterproof power dealio.
From the looks of your question please don't attempt this.
Nice job. A bit of advice, while working with electricity, it is not a good idea to wear metal jewelry. I wear a silicone wedding band. 😊
Stud Pack is that you? I swear this is an exact replay of Stud Packs video. Do we all have an inherited extension cord? Lol I have one as well, I made a similar extension cord with one USB GFCI and one standard Commerical 20a outlet With a manual reset (in line gfci) on the male end that's wired in and water resistant, So you can't do a fancy led plug (well, i guess you could, but you're going to have to cut your inline)
Lok at all those product links!! Yet j am not able to find a link to a cord!!
When building the outlet box, can you use a GFCI outlet or would that be useless?
I use garden hose reel for my long extension cords. Can easily real it up and move around on the wheels
Enjoyed your video. I noticed on the drawing you did shows 3 wago nuts and you only used 1 to tie up the grounds. 10:58
You didn’t use the 2 other wago nuts while building the box. Are the other 2 wago nuts necessary?
I melted a cord wound in a coil, but it was around a sheet metal core , no core it still developed a magnetic field which may be no problem under normal use 👌🏻👏🏻👍🏻
Nicely done. But pulling on the cord to remove the plug from the receptacle? And, as a suggestion, the quick formula for determining the amount of conductor you need from the supply in the bucket. You know, the diameter of the bucket x 3 (to make it simple) per loop. Or maybe, a mark of some kind (tape, bright magic marker, etc) every 3 ft on the conductor. BTW, Some of the older products were made from better quality materials as you well know, but nice when available.
Hi, great video... I have a question for you... Is there any concern about the safety of an aged cord... Such as the outer shell being cracked and a bit brittle?
O S H A. Yes
That’s definitely worth looking at. This one at least was still soft and free of cuts and issues but each cord should be checked before doing a project like this. The better cords can stay in good shape for ages.
i had one very old and the insulation was so old pulling on cord shorted the wires and blew breaker from insulation crumbling
@@ranger178 I've had a very similar situation once... Since then I always inspect any old cords very, very carefully...
bend the cord sharply over on itself then squeeze it. (like he did for trimming the outer jacket) If you hear crunching sounds it's dry cracked internally.
One change I would make is leaving enough wood to cut a handhold on the board. Easier to carry and you can hang it on the wall with a nail. That said, this is NOT a UL approved device or approved by OSHA for a commercial job site. Oh, one more thing... do not feed a cord through a hole in a bucket. Cords like this must have free flowing air to stay cool and if used while coiled up in a bucket they may get hotter than you think.
Actually, OSHA _does_ allow for "self repaired" extension cords on jobsites now. No inspector in the world would cite you for a cord done this well.
@@davecarsley8773 ... this is not a REPAIRED cord. This is a built from scratch deal, which someone from OSHA might have an issue with... not your local building inspector.
@@rupe53 OSHA does allow these cords as long as EVERY component used is listed for it's intended use. The biggest fail with these home jobbies is the box itself. Most of the boxes used in these homemade quad boxes are listed for permanent install and not for portable use. That's a code violation right there. Hubble and Leviton do make portable listed boxes but are very expensive. Inspectors will kick out any of these quad boxes that use the metal boxes with knockouts, this one doesn't have knock outs but isn't listed for portable use so 50/50 whether you get called on it or not.
@@wally7856 I'm with ya here on the 50/50 bit. The flip side is any serious DIY type can make or use one of these and never seen an inspector so no worries if done nicely.
@@rupe53 Oh ya, use these for sure. I have about a dozen of these (sound guy) and once you use these, you'll never grab your extension cord again. These are all I use in my garage (and on stage).
I was trying to figure out which link was for the wire? Anyway you can help? I’m trying to make sure I order the right stufff for this project
This is so realistic. I would have forgotten that housing too, thanks for leaving that in
why some countries have different voltages. in USA 123V, here in Pakistan 220V?
It's a little bulky, but I think I'd want an in-use bubble cover so I could plug something in, close the cover, and use it in the rain without tripping the GFCI. As safe as GFCIs make our work, as an electrician who works in the rain (kinda tough to avoid when it rains over 200 days per year) I want to avoid a wet cord end keeping me from using power tools.
I added a 2" rubber grommet to protect the cable when I pull it out of the bucket.
Rather than taping, I refer to drive in unused screws so they don’t stick out.
Since you haven’t mounted the outlets before the first test, I’d plug the tester into the gfci before plugging into power.
Is this enough power for ac window unit and lights in camper
Thanks for your help
A lot of gfci outlets I've seen include a tiny led to show the protection is good.
Yeah, this one has that too - I just liked the brighter lights that make it easier to check.
Having just subscribed when you talked about uk plugs.All I see now is the week link which is the plug/skt. Not much you can do about that in your country though.
Thank you for this. Love your videos.
Great Job 📐🪚🔨⚡️
0:53 Am I crazy because I don't see any links for the wire like you mentioned?
Don't see this mentioned so what about making it completely from scratch. What exact type wire (12/3 heavy duty yet still pliable) should one purchase?
Light duty use (sjoow) or (sjow), heavy duty use (soow) or (sow).
(s) stands for service
(o) stands for oil resistant outer jacket
(oo) stands for oil resistant outer and inner jacket
(sj) stands for junior service use. Good up to 300v (600v is standard) and has a thinner jacket
The sj is good for anything that doesn't get run over or high traffic and is much lighter and easier to coil and lays flat on the ground and takes up much less space. The standard cable is thick like garden hose and is much heavier and harder to coil and bulkier and doesn't always lay flat on the ground. Your needs may vary but some construction sites and things like theater or stages may require you to use the regular s cable instead of the sj cable. You should be able to see both types at home depot or the like.
I can't read the writing on the cable in the video but it looks to be sow or soow by how thick the jacket is. sjoow is much much thinner cable and easier to work with.
cable type so or sjo
you probaby need to byy it from an electric supply house
I did a switched three gang with second dimmer to one of the outlets. Multipurpose, I guess.
Here's another idea for the covers. Instead of using the flat weather cover, use the kind that allows you to close it when stuff is plugged in. And it might also be good if you get that GFCI extension cord that plugs into the wall, get one that also has a good surge protector on it because if you are a contractor, you never know what the power quality of the worksite is going to be and you don't need a bad power surge coming through and destroying tools or batteries you are charging costing you even more money to replace them.
Couldn't you just install an AFCI+GFCI combo receptacle on the line end in the box, also protecting the second receptacle in series?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but an AFCI should detect the change in current from a surge and trip...
4:40 this works for other twisted cables like xlr, powercon, etc.
I’ve got one utility box also, who’s brand name was TOPELE
Maybe it's called 12/3 because it's portable wire. MC cable has insulated ground wire, but it's still called 12/2 if the other 2 wires are black and white.
I will not point out the janking of the plug out by the cord , others already had, But you should wrap tape over the Wagos levers to secure them. Pushing the outlet back into the box ; coiling of the wire could pop open one or more of the levers.
FYI, you missed the Klein outlet tester in affiliate links...I could be blind though.
Awesome!
How long will it work 100ft?
What is the max length at 15 amps?
Thumbnail made me believe Raikonen was settling in to his new life 😂😂😂
What gauge is that extension cord from your grandfather? Looks like 10 gauge?
Paint over the light sensor to have the indicator light stay on
No wire ferrules?
Show us the code section that covers extension chords that you mention at the end of your video please.
Here's some info on it and it's principally OSHA that discusses this: www.osha.gov/laws-regs/standardinterpretations/1992-11-04-1
@@LRN2DIY
Oh, OSHA!
But not a reg for regular home owners.
I was thinking NEC for homeowners.
@@LRN2DIY This is from the OSHA page you referenced. “The GFCI equipped cord set assembly or the GFCI equipped portable tool assembly must, as a complete unit, be approved as required by 1926.403(a) in accordance with the definition given in 1926.449.”
So, are you saying you are getting your extension cord assembly tested and listed? I’m thinking not.
Those outlet testers are not able to do the most important test, polarity, if you have your phase and neutral wires backwards ( hot and return I think you called them) they will still show the correct voltage etc. To test this you need to have an independent earth ( a metal rod pushed into the ground will do the job) then connect that to one end of your voltage/multi meter then use the other end of your meter to test the socket. You will get the voltage on your hot/phase you should get nothing on the neutral/return and the same with the earth/ground
Isn't the patina on the wire an issue?
Those receptacles are self grounding. Since your box is metal, connect the ground to the box only and the receptacles will be grounded thru their yokes.
Usually, yes. The problem is that there are some receptacles that have grounds isolated from the yoke. Not common but they do exist. Someone way in the future might replace one of the outlets. When they do, you want them to see that ground wire hanging loose and to hook it up. That way all outlet types are considered.
Isolated ground receptacles are well marked and it would be hard to confuse them. Special receptacle may have an orange face with a small green triangle or a white face with a small orange triangle.
The doors to the receptacle's open the wrong way. The point of an extension cord is to extend. That means in and out. Your doors block the out direction.
Awesome
Just use a ping pong paddle as the mounting surface lol😅
Nils, Great info, great work thank you 👍😉
I have used the Wago lever nuts, after that you'll never go back to wire nuts!!
When you were stripping the wire, I noticed that the conducters had that dull, corroded, moisture has wicked in there at some time in the past look. Why didn't you cut off a little more wire and get back to the clean copper?
There is another video, that I watched and what I have found, after a month of using this method is:
The receptacles should be orientated so their load lines pull in the opposite direction as the line wire. This will pull line tension along the same path as apposed to flipping the box, rubbing the load wire (on a surface), because all tension, as shown) comes from one side when tension should come from two sides.
What? Load lines? What are trying to say?
Not sure using that plastic fitting ideal for rough housing that box, a metal and rubber compression fitting is better. And also use that spare cord wire so the reciprocals fit easier
My boss would throw a hammer at me if he were to see me not using ferrules with screw terminals
1:36 😊
Never ever pull on cord. Reach down and grab plug.
Cascading GFCI's could be problematic there's selectivity there's other reasons but I guess what they really want is to protect the cable which I think stems from an OSHA requirement for job sites. I guess you really weren't worried with cutting down all that length it pains me every time. Yeah that might not be manageable but I'm going you know you always get that cord and it's always at three feet short problem. I have seen and tried many different chord ranking techniques over the years. They don't recommend the group method it permanently twists the cord and makes it a tripping hazard see over the arm death by extension cord to extension cord it's worse. The bucket is not too bad although the bend radius of that cable is a little out of spec for it. Cable reels aren't too bad although they're not gonna work with heavier cords. Cable reel with a handle spool thing with outlets on it works pretty good again not for that cord, I have one of these and it's nice and convenient but all of my other cords in the bean wrap differently. Which leads me to the overunder broadcast technique not only does it keep the cord from internally twisting creating a trip hazard a small loop of rope to secure it and it doesn't tangle. Unless you accidentally get one of the ends through the middle.
I would order through my local stores to support jobs And local business American products.
People will say its not needed, but I always build my extension cords with 10 Ga. Wire...Sure, its a little more expensive, but its heavier duty, and has less current loss when it comes to length. I also.only use Hubbell for my connectors. 😮
Will it this wire deliver 15 amps at 125 feet?
Before I even watched this I knew it was inspired by studpacks vid
Would love to see a possible collab???
I enjoyed the vid. Good information and presentation. I would note a couple things. Your hand/knife positions at 3:02 when cutting that paper is really bad form. It is just asking for the blade to slip and slice your other hand. You also might want to know that the 'K' is not silent in Knipex. It is pronounced Kuh-nip-x. Knipex even sells T-shirts that explicitly state the correct pronunciation. They are a German company and German does not use a silent k.
I love learning about ways I can improve so I appreciate the feedback on both the knife handling and the kuh-nip-x. I've been saying that wrong for years and I do try to look up pronunciations of most things but missed that one. Thanks again for sharing and for watching!
7:53 lol
+10 for Rigid tools over Ryobi
That lifetime warranty is clutch, not to mention they're an Ohio based company
White on bright, get it right. Black on brass, you bet you a$$. Green to ground.
OG put the plugs on the wrong end! That's probably why it failed all these years later
Great video.
The end sockets seem far more complicated than we have over here, I don’t follow why yours are so awkward. We also don’t talk gauges etc it’s just 3 core extension cable to us, one may have it in white or black so tricky as the ladies will always want the ‘other’ one!
I have not noticed your little standup routine before………wondering if I can get back to that state?? Lol 😂
Love the plywood thingy however the bucket I must be missing something as seems more trouble?
Bob
England
Gauge is how thick the wire is. This corresponds to how many amps it can handle over a certain distance.
You don't talk about gauges? Does that mean you would use the same gauge for a desk lamp as you would for a welder?
@@JohnSmith-qi6co no, but the pack would say suitable for………..XYZ and that’s all we need to know. We just don’t have gauges in our heads like you guys seem too? This is from a DIY position of course I don’t know what the pro’s do.
Bob
I'll give you. A
Everywhere I have ever seen it says: NEVER UNPLUG A DEVICE BY PULLING ON THE CORD.
Why did you not use 20amp receptacles? Do you never plan to plug this setup into a 20amp receptacle?
I was about to scream out loud DONT CUT TOWARDS YOUR HAND!!!! CUT AWAY FROM YOUR HAND!!!! but you stopped yourself.......good
The bare ground copper wires ought to be fitted with sleeves indicating ground to be safest. Wago terminals could also be replaced with more robust connectors. Otherwise a pretty neat setup!
Wago > everything else.
- German Electrician
Thank you for showing people how to endanger people's lives. There's a reason these death traps are not OSHA approved. I especially love the statements you made about taking to a job site and using in the mud. This thing is a huge OSHA fine if you are caught and having the GFCI device in the box doesn't protect you from shock if the box comes in contact with water. People if you make these thingies keep them indoors and not on jobsites. PS: the GFCI cord you plugged in to at the end doesn't make your cord compliant just makes it safer.
It is a listing and labeling citation, and putting a gfci onto something that is already gfci protected can cause the gfci to malfunction and not worth.
I am asking because I don't know: would an "AFCI" type receptacle (if there is such a thing) be better?
@@danhartman9087 I know they make arc fault breakers not sure about receptacles. Either way it would not make a difference to OSHA. They go by the UL listing for equipment and NEC. Now you could make one of these with a pendulum box ( a box designed for this task) but you need to follow the manufacturer instructions (OSHA will also reference). Use just one GFCI ( one will cover multiple other outlets) and as long as it follows the codes be ok with it.
I'm assuming that he is referring to individuals using the cord at various job sites around the house and not a tradesman using it.
@@danhartman9087 An AFCI devise recognizes arc flashes by listening to "noise" introduced to the line during an arc flash. AC motors with brushes often false trip AFCI devices because the arc on the brushes makes the same type of noise on the line. Since this is a work type box, AC motors are probably plugged into these boxes often making AFCI devices a bad choice to use in this type of situation.
Wait, how did the cord work before? If the cord was backwards, they must have had the electricity flowing backwards.
Hah it called twisted cord for strength and cloth reenforcement.
@SuperVstech - The wires were still connected to the correct terminals but there's an order to them that lines up perfectly for each end. It's not a big deal to use the other end, you just have to move the cords around to wire them correctly.
AC .... "alternating" current .. there is no forwards or backwards at least if you're not using 3 phase..oh wait i dont even know if the muricahs use 3 phases at all.. in fact i dont know what they use at all, over here we either have Live, Neutral, Ground or Phase 1, 2, 3, Neutral and Ground.
@@Daiceto yes… I was making a funny.
Better check if a venue allows DIY cords like this. I was a a convention in San Jose with specifc restrictions about 10 years ago. I think DIY anything electrical was disallowed.
nec allows for an assured grounding program were you test all cords for ground continuity
ive failed a lot of junk cords
@@jeffriley-lq5np Interesting. I can't remember since it was over a decade ago but the instructions at the convention center in San Jose (Santa Clara County Fairgrounds in Pleasanton) had pretty severe restrictions about drop cords or what's attached to them in a booth. I'm sure either the vendor or the events company will take a good look to avoid unnecessary extra work setting up.
As an electrician seeing you use uninsulated or bare copper wire made all my alarm bells go off big time. I know they are just ground BUT in two situations they are live and since the box is metal, YES aluminium is very much conductive, you would get shocked. Sit 1, faulty equipment sending power to ground. Sit 2, one or more of the bare copper touching one of the terminals inside as you put it all together or if the box got smacked around enough.
That's the "entire" purpose of the safety ground. Short out any hot to chassis situations and trip the breaker. We always use bare copper for ground in North America.
Wait....if you ground to the box doesn't that make the box potentially charged in a ground fault? Please tell me why I'm wrong.
the box may get charged, but it will all go to ground back at the source. This also protects you if say a hot wire accidentally touches the box internally.
That's the "entire" purpose of the safety ground - short out any potentially hot to chassis situations and trip the breaker. Without the ground attached to the chassis, a hot could make contact and electrify the chassis creating a hazard for the user. If you don't have a metal chassis, you don't have any purpose for a safety ground and one is not needed. Appliances with plastic cases for example often are only 2 prong because they don't need a safety ground. The whole purpose of the ground is to ground to metal chassis/boxes.
Please be advised that ALL extension cords sold are required to be tested and listed. NEC does not address these because they are not part of a premise wiring system. But, do not ever loan it out or let some use it. Lawyers would love a lawsuit if something would happen to them. You absolutely can not use this on any job site. As you pointed out in another comment, “The GFCI equipped cord set assembly or the GFCI equipped portable tool assembly must, as a complete unit, be approved as required by 1926.403(a) in accordance with the definition given in 1926.449.” This cord does not comply.
Also, with the exception of the replacement cord cap, none of the other components are tested or labeled for making extension cords.
So, you need to keep this cord for your use only.
Respectfully, Kevin
www(dot)osha(dot)gov/laws-regs/standardinterpretations/1992-03-03
OSHA does allow these cords for "temporary" power as long as ALL components used are listed as such. The biggest fail with these home jobbie quad boxes are the box itself. Most are listed for permanent install and not portable use. Hubbel and Leviton do make portable boxes that are listed for portable use if anyone is looking.
I think a FS/FD cast box is allowed, what you don't want is a quad box with knockouts. Of course, a rubber portable outlet box is what you should buy, if you have the money, because it is safer.
@@wally7856 Please read it again. “Only if constructed at that job site”. Direct from your referenced interpretation:
Normally, equipment must be approved as an assembly by a nationally recognized testing laboratory before it would be acceptable under the General Industry or Construction Electrical Standards (Part 1910, Subpart S and Part 1926, Subpart K, respectively). In the case of cord sets used in construction, it is common for them to be assembled in the field by electrical contractors. It should be noted that OSHA interprets cord sets as being temporary wiring extensions of the branch circuit. As such, temporary electrical power and lighting wiring methods, as specifically modified in 1926.405(a)(2) and 1910.305(a)(2), may be of a class less than that required for a permanent installation. Thus, temporary electrical power and lighting installations are permitted during the period of construction, remodeling, maintenance, repair or demolition of buildings, structures, equipment, or similar activities. In addition, temporary wiring must be removed immediately upon completion of construction or purpose for which the wiring was installed. When the temporary wiring consists of shop-made cord sets, self-fabricated lighting installations, emergency or experimental wiring etc., as permitted by 1926.405(a)(2) and 1910.305(a)(2) to be assembled and installed at the work site using approved parts, the requirement for listing by a nationally recognized test laboratory does not apply. If a factory-manufactured temporary wiring assembly, such as ready-made extension cords, temporary lighting strings (UL-1088), "on-the-spot" emergency lighting, etc., is desired, then the prefabricated temporary wiring assembly to be installed must be of a type that a nationally recognized testing laboratory accepts, certifies, lists, labels, or determines to be safe.
@@MrObsvenchilde Read this OSHA interpretation. Read carefully.
Normally, equipment must be approved as an assembly by a nationally recognized testing laboratory before it would be acceptable under the General Industry or Construction Electrical Standards (Part 1910, Subpart S and Part 1926, Subpart K, respectively). In the case of cord sets used in construction, it is common for them to be assembled in the field by electrical contractors. It should be noted that OSHA interprets cord sets as being temporary wiring extensions of the branch circuit. As such, temporary electrical power and lighting wiring methods, as specifically modified in 1926.405(a)(2) and 1910.305(a)(2), may be of a class less than that required for a permanent installation. Thus, temporary electrical power and lighting installations are permitted during the period of construction, remodeling, maintenance, repair or demolition of buildings, structures, equipment, or similar activities. In addition, temporary wiring must be removed immediately upon completion of construction or purpose for which the wiring was installed. When the temporary wiring consists of shop-made cord sets, self-fabricated lighting installations, emergency or experimental wiring etc., as permitted by 1926.405(a)(2) and 1910.305(a)(2) to be assembled and installed at the work site using approved parts, the requirement for listing by a nationally recognized test laboratory does not apply. If a factory-manufactured temporary wiring assembly, such as ready-made extension cords, temporary lighting strings (UL-1088), "on-the-spot" emergency lighting, etc., is desired, then the prefabricated temporary wiring assembly to be installed must be of a type that a nationally recognized testing laboratory accepts, certifies, lists, labels, or determines to be safe.
@@KevinCoop1 It's the whole "using approved parts" -ie: listed for intended purpose that I thought was worth mentioning. I don't use my boxes in construction however I do pro sound and quad boxes are the staple we use to provide power to a stage from our distro. Every pro audio company uses shop made boxes and most of them "could" potentially be rejected during an inspection based on the fact that the boxes themselves were originally listed for permanent install and not portable. Just wanted to give viewers a heads up of potential future problems if they do pro work. I don't know of anyone who has been called out on it (in pro audio) as there weren't any other alternatives available but now that Hubbel and Leviton make listed boxes I can see inspectors in the future steering their requirements that way.
Came into the comments to say ping pong
Hospital grade outlets feature a power indicator light to let you know it's hot
Some not all