I'm watching because I have always loved automatic transmissions .I never understood how they worked. I'm just recently retired .I want to learn everything there is to know about them. I'm planning to learn how to rebuild them as a Hobbie only. ..
I have this transmission in my 2003 Ford F150 Harley-Davidson Edition; it's been extremely reliable, never had a problem with it. Thanks for this video, very informative, I recently became fascinated by the engineering behind automatic transmissions, so it's great to be able to see the inside of the one that I have. I am mostly fascinated by the valve bodies.
It does seem like your building pressure to get it going almost like my hydrostatic trans in my John Deere but the other thing I got codes p1746 pressure control solenoid circuit open p1754 clutch solenoid circuit fault and p0713 transmission fluid temperature sensor high input the trans light on shifter is blinking
@@JustinHolloway307 ok, so it's in failsafe mode, first thing clear the codes see how fast they come back(they may come right back) then unplug the harness connector may have corrosion causing these codes
This is a Great Video!! I enjoy your commentary, Focused on the task, not telling us about your worldy political or religious views or problems or even talking senslessly about nothing pertinant to the 4R100. You are clear in speaking with a common sense practical and logic approach. You also have a very methodical approach. Your to the point and willing to use a good camera that focuses decently, also it's great that you pause and are willing to take the time to adjust the camera viewing angles along with adjustments to the lighting allowing the viewers the oppurtunity to see how, what, where, and why specific parts go in their respective positions, placements, and orientations. I also enjoyed your pauses in commentary allowing you the proper time to reorganize thoughts to words which again offers the viewer the clear and logical perspective of the points your speaking of. Id like to point out the fact that you return to earlier points wich you better clarify and then offer a greater insight and approach you take specifically. Most guys don't give up thier insight, or discuss the common problems and repairs. Job security tends to be the reasoning that experts do not reveal the insider tips and tricks which are earned and gained over thier skill honing career years. After all, if everyone could rebuild their AT, folks like you wouldn't have a job, right?? So says that logical reasoning of witholding great information. So a great big thanks for this unveiling of your tips and tricks, and your techniques and approach to the repair beginnings of this specific parts warehouse of a transmission known as the 4R100, a mechanical engineering feat of marvel maddness. I'd like to share my perspective about videos that are made in the name of self help, backyard repair, money saving oppurtunities that are offered by way of filming tasks of specific focus. When a tech is found repeating himself about specific points of high interest and importance, I would offer my perspective which would encourage the viewer to listen and watch carefully being prepared to rewind and play and rewind and play . I have found these repetitive points and perspectives to be the key to my personal long-term repair success with technical or complicated items. Your defiantly a man of expertise with AT's. I truely enjoyed watching you make complex engineering come apart with ease. "SOMETIMES!!!" This is very frustrating for (ME), and many others of the "not so experienced" guys that are trying to do the job right!! To watch you seamlessly and easily perform a task or move in moments that takes me an hour, UGGGGHHHHHHHH all in the name of attempting to save ourselves large sums of money required to pay someone else to perform the same task. **YOU ARE DEFINITELY** one of these kinds of experts. This task specifically speaking, ## FOR ME## is not some simple Saturday afternoon rebuild process. This AT, **4R100** and probably most all AT's are no magical saturday afternoon VOILA!! I rebuilt one of my 4R100 AT's from one of my FORD Diesels recently and this video was one of the aids I needed and used at the time. Truely because of this video aid I was able to disassemble and reassemble with a fair amount of ease. It surely did guide me. Because of the amount of ways to which a guy can incorrectly reassemble and even disassemble the 4R100 specifically speaking your video was of priceless importance!! I just wished that you would have covered all of the rebuild process in one shot. Everything from a shift kit, torque converter, valve bodies, filters, coolers, pumps etc.. and maybe the introductions to the basics of transmission applications and brief insights to the approaches concerning for example the same transmission (4R100) and it's use in towing, and what's reccomended by you for a strong and sustainable AT. Nonetheless this was a great video... P.S. That bench-table of yours... FANTASTIC!!! Why didn't I ever think of that?? I redid the top surface of my shop table after i saw yours in action. I now have a top which has a small degree of a concave sloped working surface that allows spilled fluids a path to flow away from the edge and my clothes into the center of the table and drain through a centered screen drain above a 25 gallon old grease barrel. Containment of any fluids now is easy and makes my clean up and disposal quick and easy. Keep the EXPERTISE coming guys like you have saved me tens of thousands of dollars in labor over the years. I am INDEED THANKFUL for the detication you have taken to offer us poor broke folk a way to keep on driving without going into auto part company sharholding debt from paid labor and large parts cost markups.. Thanks again so much great video and very informational on the basket of parts inside the 4R100....
Front pump seal went out on mine. Was going to replacing the bushing on the pump as well. Do I have to take the valve body out to take the pump or or can I remove it from the bell housing area
@@GaryFerraro ok awesome. Makes my task a little easier. Would you recommend taking the pump to a shop to get the to install bushing and seal. Or is it fairly straightforward. Hammer old bushing out and tap new bushing in with a socket or something about the same diameter. Same with seal
@@00_Excursion Really need a bushing driver and i press them in, is there a shop close to you. After the bushing is in, make sure it fits on the converter
I may have found one shop that’ll do it. But they wanted to drop the valve body. But if I can get it out I think he can test it for me to make sure the pump is good and replace the bushing and seal
@@GaryFerraro I also seen other videos where some of the aftermarket bushings don’t have the notch in the for fluid release that might push the seal out. Is it necessary to make a notch in the new bushing or have you experienced any problems without notching the new bushing for fluid relief
Hi Gary .. I live in Florida . I have a 1999 5.4 superduty When the Hurricane went by my computer system acted up and my electrical system. My blower was running with no key , cluster gauge mph fluctuating ... Then it started slamming hard into drive and OD. then it would only shift 1-2 and no drive or OD and threw a speed sensor code . Not sure if my trans has a speed sensor. I replaced the diff sensor and my fusebox... Now the trans shifts at proper points however when I put it into reverse something is howling low whistle while the vehicle moves back and after it the truck is stopped then it stops slowly ... Could the hard shifting have blown a hydraulic circuit? Is there a speed sensor in the trans. Also is there any possibility the computer malfunction could have damaged solenoids ? I know its alot of questions .. My truck is at the dealer for 3 days and still no diagnosis.
Gary Ferraro and what about the other one. That happens on the expedition but the other comment is about the f350 if you know anything about that one too
Thanks for the video Gary very informative as always I guess the 6l80 holds together pretty good because I haven't seen one in awhile still waiting on the 6l80 rebuild
Thanks for the video and walkthrough. What did you find actually was responsible for the "no Forward" problem in this case? Also, I was always told that bypass tube was added to protect the transmission, in the event the cooler got clogged. You said at the beginning of the video it was for something about winter running (cold weather). What exactly is this tube's function in cold weather? Thanks in Advance!
The function of the bypass tube which was added in 1997 is increase lube flow during cold weather operations. No forward was due to bad forward clutch pack
I have a Linkin Navigator with the same transmission it works fine but when it has been driven 5 to 10 miles it start losing fluid it seems to be coming from the vent tube on top or from the tail shaft housing between the transmission and the housing the filter and fluid have both been replaced every thing abt it works just fine just losing fluid most probably from the vent tube plus the tork converter sounds like a bad power steering pump
It's not over filled it was parked because of the air ride other than a few dirt dobbers built some nests in and around things it is at factory settings
recently a friend of mine repaired the transmission of my 2000 f350 7.3 2wd, it turns out that now the transmission remains in neutral even if you put it on drive, someone commented that I need to calibrate it, I would appreciate your help
I got P0741 code mechanic told me it was my solenoid pack. It looks like drop the pan, unbolt pack put new one in and bolt pan up done. Got some hard shifting with O/D light flashing at 45 mph.
Many of the internal parts remind me of a C6. The planetaries , drive shell, FWD. drum, and the way the rear piston is held in with the sprag race. Can the stator tube be pressed out, I noticed that it had some bolts in it.
Thank you for making this video. Perfect timing! I just started rebuilding my sons' 4r100 from his '99 Ford F250. It had no low. After getting it apart we found the frictions (low) were worn down to the metal. That explained why low wasn't working, but not how it happened. Until we started cleaning all the components, where I found a crack in the hub of the forward clutch housing that went right through the 2 sealing rings! Couple of questions. Do you use and/or recommend the Transgo "Tugger" kit. Besides what you talk about in your video, what do you recommend to make the 4r100 last as long as possible?
I use the transgo shiftkit on every overhaul. I dont do many upgrades, i put in a new set of pump gears, i change the case bushings, pump bushing and the direct drum bushings to keep everything running true. I also change the shell, they like to crack and on the sungear i knock out the upper bushings(according to how the sun gear sits in the case) closer to the foward planet, for better lube to the foward planetary gearset, and on the foward hub i change out the snap ring to a superior super tuff snap ring.
@@GaryFerraro recently a friend of mine repaired the transmission of my 2000 f350 7.3 2wd, it turns out that now the transmission remains in neutral even if you put it on drive, someone commented that I need to calibrate it, I would appreciate your help
@@hanoimartinez571 Bro I'm retired but I know Gary has done many many units that a do it yourselfer has done. They usually cost someone like yourself a lot of money and broken and missing parts. When they have parts leftover they don't anyone to know about they just throw them away.I know this gentleman has seen this. I have had to charge someone a cpl hundred extra for this.In addition most all those new parts are no good.Automatic transmissions are for pro's. Guys who are amateurs should not try this good luck
I would actually guess the way those new 2016 transmissions, would still have a rebuilt 4r100 with the new snap rings, pistons, and sun gears. I am not complaining about the part finishes, the shallow drums, or that quick throttle body, without the piston gears 3-5.
Gary, great video, and very informative. I have a question about my 4r100 in my 02 F250psd. I have started having very soft 1-2 and 2-3 shifts to the point that it almost feels like slippage, let off the throttle and it will basically fall into the next gear after a couple seconds of hesitation. I have pulled the pan, pulled the accumulator body out, verified no broken springs, cleaned it all up, and put it back together with synthetic fluids and new filter. Test drive was great, then take an hour trip to verify, and pulling off the highway, the first time coming to a complete stop, it goes right back into super soft shifts and having to hold out each gear. No codes. My question, does it sound like the unit needs to be dropped and rebuilt? Or are there any other tricks I can do to fix this soft shift issue? Thanks again
The thing you called low reverse "race"....is actually the low sprag race...as you know it holds the reverse spring return in place. This unit is a C-6 with o drive on the front. As far as I'm concerned the C-6 was the best automatic transmission ever built.(a chevy man lol) Sort of ironic the same weak point exist in this unit...the forward clutch. That inner piston seal got hard in the C-6...causing a delay in fwd range when they were cold..was this one hard?.. You have a nice shop thanks for the nice video. Transmissions got my lungs and back ...hope yours are better than mine. Take care brother..Bill
That makes sense. I program cnc milling machines, which has taken years to get good at it. Sometimes good experience comes from bad experience, and I like to pass my bad experiences on to trainees so they don't make the same mistakes. I have an 02 excursion with a 7.3, the trans works great, but I'd like to beef it up so it can handle more hp.
Hi Garry. I have a problem with a Suzuki Grand Vitara 2002 problem. I have a customer that swap transmission and now the trans won't shift to revers but if I put the car in the air shift normally. I just want to know what most likely is the problem. By the way I think the pump is bad because have a whining noise or a clogged trans filter. I hope I explained myself well because english is not my primary lenguage.
Gary Ferraro runs heavy like is towing something heavy or running on 3rd. Tomorrow I'm gonna scan the car for codes (of is that has codes). But i ask just to have some direction to look at it. Thank you for your fast respond.
Hey man. I do European stuff almost exclusively, and came across a 6t70 in a 2010 traverse. I had a shift solenoid 4 & 5 low circuit. I took the mechatronics out and found those torn seals on the fronts of the two solenoids. I sold a complete overhaul since it has 200,000 miles. But when I put a new mechatronics on the valvebody later this week, I can program it right? I have a j2534 pass thru but never Did one of these GM trans before. Idk if it even needs to be programed, but I am assuming so, since the TCM is in the mechatronics. Any help is appreciated.
Do you recommend software updates on every overhaul that is electronically controlled? I've thought about doing it, but the other transmission shops I ask say they never do software updates with overhauls and don't do their own programming when replacing a TCM...
Gary, what is your diagnosis as to why this transmission was in bad shape? Lack of maintenance, driven hard,... what's the root cause? after watching the video, looks like pump wear caused clutch slippage, which the computer noticed, increased pressure to compensate for slippage, and the process kept going until catastrophic failure?
Hello, i would say lack of maintence, also i found the factory cooler to be leaking which probably ignored. So i did the overhaul and installed a new factory cooler and all is well. I would think they never checked the trans fluid, when i started to slip they just added until it started to slip again, eventually the foward clutch failed
no , it just doesn't have a nice firm shift from first to second and the fluid is beautifully pink with no burned smell . I'm just super picky . the reason I was asking if it was a 4R70W is I want to watch a video about it so I can rebuild it when it goes out . thank you for answering my question .
Ok, when it comes time and you want to firm up the shift, you would have to addresss the acummulator and springs in the trans, that should firm up the shift
My transmission wont go into forward or reverse it stays in park, and when I try to put it into gear i can't feel it, when it's in gear and I put it back into park it makes a really loud grinding noise until I turn it off any recommendations ??
IVE GOT NO CODE OVER DRIVE DOES NOT SHIFT INTO AND LIGHT ON SHIFTER DOESN'T GO OUT EVERYTHING ELSE DRIVES GOOD AND SHIFTS JUST NO OVER DRIVE BUT IT DID WORK LIKE 3 TIMES WHEN COLD ONE DAY
When you say light on shifter, that may be the overdrive cancel switch, if its lit, car will have no o/d, only shift to 3rd, may have a wire shorted at the handel
right i cant get the light out and i checked wiring the switch on light may be bad but the light never does go out yet at times i did get the trans to shift into over drive so i know my switch on shifter is talking to trans also
i did no blown fuse either light stays lit just cant shut it off also like i said the trans did shift into over drive a few times since i installed the new switch actually the entire shifter
I'm watching because I have always loved automatic transmissions .I never understood how they worked.
I'm just recently retired .I want to learn everything there is to know about them.
I'm planning to learn how to rebuild them as a Hobbie only. ..
Good luck my friend
I have this transmission in my 2003 Ford F150 Harley-Davidson Edition; it's been extremely reliable, never had a problem with it.
Thanks for this video, very informative, I recently became fascinated by the engineering behind automatic transmissions, so it's great to be able to see the inside of the one that I have. I am mostly fascinated by the valve bodies.
Thanks for watching, please subscribe
what model lock ring pliers are you using ?? please tell me sir
Gary is very knowledgeable
Thank you and thanks for watching
mine is a 1999 F350 box truck. this is a 2000. pretty cool finding almost the exact same truck style as mine. great video and detailed too. thank you
Thank you Gary, I now have a new appreciation for transmissions, and certainly those who restore them to working order!
Thanks for watching, please subscribe. I try to upload every sunday
Videos like this are so interesting! Thanks so much!
Thanks Stephen, thanks for watching and please subscribe. Any transmission questions just let me know
Gary Ferraro subscribed!
excellent video gary. good job
Thank you
Amazing how many moving parts are in a automatic transmission. Great blog post on this. Thanks for your help and service too
Thanks for watching, please subscribe.
WHY DOESNT ANYBODY AIR CHECK BEFORE TEARDOWN?? JUST CURIOUS. ITS VERY HELPFUL IN LOCATING THE PROBLEM.
Depending on what the problem is, i do air check sometimes on teardown. Thanks for watching
Hi my 4r100 has slow to accelerate problem afterwards shifts fine could it be the torque converter
when you say slow to accelerate, does it seem like it's in a higher gear on takeoff?
Yes I think so it’s like it didn’t fully shift down it’s in a 1999 Ford Expedition we just got it has 5.4
It does seem like your building pressure to get it going almost like my hydrostatic trans in my John Deere but the other thing I got codes p1746 pressure control solenoid circuit open p1754 clutch solenoid circuit fault and p0713 transmission fluid temperature sensor high input the trans light on shifter is blinking
@@JustinHolloway307 ok, so it's in failsafe mode, first thing clear the codes see how fast they come back(they may come right back) then unplug the harness connector may have corrosion causing these codes
This is a Great Video!!
I enjoy your commentary, Focused on the task, not telling us about your worldy political or religious views or problems or even talking senslessly about nothing pertinant to the 4R100.
You are clear in speaking with a common sense practical and logic approach. You also have a very methodical approach.
Your to the point and willing to use a good camera that focuses decently, also it's great that you pause and are willing to take the time to adjust the camera viewing angles along with adjustments to the lighting allowing the viewers the oppurtunity to see how, what, where, and why specific parts go in their respective positions, placements, and orientations.
I also enjoyed your pauses in commentary allowing you the proper time to reorganize thoughts to words which again offers the viewer the clear and logical perspective of the points your speaking of.
Id like to point out the fact that you return to earlier points wich you better clarify and then offer a greater insight and approach you take specifically.
Most guys don't give up thier insight, or discuss the common problems and repairs.
Job security tends to be the reasoning that experts do not reveal the insider tips and tricks which are earned and gained over thier skill honing career years.
After all, if everyone could rebuild their AT, folks like you wouldn't have a job, right?? So says that logical reasoning of witholding great information.
So a great big thanks for this unveiling of your tips and tricks, and your techniques and approach to the repair beginnings of this specific parts warehouse of a transmission known as the 4R100, a mechanical engineering feat of marvel maddness.
I'd like to share my perspective about videos that are made in the name of self help, backyard repair, money saving oppurtunities that are offered by way of filming tasks of specific focus.
When a tech is found repeating himself about specific points of high interest and importance, I would offer my perspective which would encourage the viewer to listen and watch carefully being prepared to rewind and play and rewind and play .
I have found these repetitive points and perspectives to be the key to my personal long-term repair success with technical or complicated items.
Your defiantly a man of expertise with AT's.
I truely enjoyed watching you make complex engineering come apart with ease.
"SOMETIMES!!!" This is very frustrating for (ME), and many others of the
"not so experienced" guys that are trying to do the job right!! To watch you seamlessly and easily perform a task or move in moments that takes me an hour, UGGGGHHHHHHHH all in the name of attempting to save ourselves large sums of money required to pay someone else to perform the same task.
**YOU ARE DEFINITELY** one of these kinds of experts.
This task specifically speaking, ## FOR ME## is not some simple Saturday afternoon rebuild process. This AT, **4R100** and probably most all AT's are no magical saturday afternoon VOILA!!
I rebuilt one of my 4R100 AT's from one of my FORD Diesels recently and this video was one of the aids I needed and used at the time.
Truely because of this video aid I was able to disassemble and reassemble with a fair amount of ease.
It surely did guide me. Because of the amount of ways to which a guy can incorrectly reassemble and even disassemble the 4R100 specifically speaking your video was of priceless importance!!
I just wished that you would have covered all of the rebuild process in one shot. Everything from a shift kit, torque converter, valve bodies, filters, coolers, pumps etc.. and maybe the introductions to the basics of transmission applications and brief insights to the approaches concerning for example the same transmission (4R100) and it's use in towing, and what's reccomended by you for a strong and sustainable AT.
Nonetheless this was a great video...
P.S.
That bench-table of yours... FANTASTIC!!!
Why didn't I ever think of that??
I redid the top surface of my shop table after i saw yours in action. I now have a top which has a small degree of a concave sloped working surface that allows spilled fluids a path to flow away from the edge and my clothes into the center of the table and drain through a centered screen drain above a 25 gallon old grease barrel. Containment of any fluids now is easy and makes my clean up and disposal quick and easy.
Keep the EXPERTISE coming guys like you have saved me tens of thousands of dollars in labor over the years.
I am INDEED THANKFUL for the detication you have taken to offer us poor broke folk a way to keep on driving without going into auto part company sharholding debt from paid labor and large parts cost markups..
Thanks again so much great video and very informational on the basket of parts inside the 4R100....
Wow, Thanks for all the kind words Rick. I read every word. I actually have a video of me doing a shift kit on the 4R100. Thanks again. Gary
Would you provide a link to your 4r100 shift kit video.
Front pump seal went out on mine. Was going to replacing the bushing on the pump as well. Do I have to take the valve body out to take the pump or or can I remove it from the bell housing area
Drop the pan and pull filter out, no need to remove valvebody
@@GaryFerraro ok awesome. Makes my task a little easier. Would you recommend taking the pump to a shop to get the to install bushing and seal. Or is it fairly straightforward. Hammer old bushing out and tap new bushing in with a socket or something about the same diameter. Same with seal
@@00_Excursion Really need a bushing driver and i press them in, is there a shop close to you. After the bushing is in, make sure it fits on the converter
I may have found one shop that’ll do it. But they wanted to drop the valve body. But if I can get it out I think he can test it for me to make sure the pump is good and replace the bushing and seal
@@GaryFerraro I also seen other videos where some of the aftermarket bushings don’t have the notch in the for fluid release that might push the seal out. Is it necessary to make a notch in the new bushing or have you experienced any problems without notching the new bushing for fluid relief
Hi Gary .. I live in Florida . I have a 1999 5.4 superduty When the Hurricane went by my computer system acted up and my electrical system. My blower was running with no key , cluster gauge mph fluctuating ... Then it started slamming hard into drive and OD. then it would only shift 1-2 and no drive or OD and threw a speed sensor code . Not sure if my trans has a speed sensor. I replaced the diff sensor and my fusebox... Now the trans shifts at proper points however when I put it into reverse something is howling low whistle while the vehicle moves back and after it the truck is stopped then it stops slowly ... Could the hard shifting have blown a hydraulic circuit? Is there a speed sensor in the trans. Also is there any possibility the computer malfunction could have damaged solenoids ? I know its alot of questions .. My truck is at the dealer for 3 days and still no diagnosis.
Probably water damage
Hey whats up. I have a question about my 4r100 transmission
99 expedition will go into reverse but not forward. And over drive light comes on past 2k rpms
@@christopherwilhite4322 Ok, question, does the car move backwards in neutral?
Gary Ferraro yes
Gary Ferraro yes
Gary Ferraro and what about the other one. That happens on the expedition but the other comment is about the f350 if you know anything about that one too
best video and best personal attitude
Just wondering M g how much would that maintenance cost and how long to get the trans back
Do you mean overhaul?
@@GaryFerraro yes a rebuilt
Great video and very thorough! Thank you for taking the time to put this up for those of us looking to tackle the job.
Your welcome, whats the problem with your trans?
Thanks for the video Gary very informative as always I guess the 6l80 holds together pretty good because I haven't seen one in awhile still waiting on the 6l80 rebuild
Have you tried Hiram Gutierrez , he has some great video's
Havent had any yet, sorry (i certainly wish i did, lol)
John McKamy I've seen hirams bilingual and I want to see one with all English so I don't get confused
ok i will keep that in mind
yeah i want to see an a espanish vídeo too
Thanks for the video and walkthrough. What did you find actually was responsible for the "no Forward" problem in this case? Also, I was always told that bypass tube was added to protect the transmission, in the event the cooler got clogged. You said at the beginning of the video it was for something about winter running (cold weather). What exactly is this tube's function in cold weather? Thanks in Advance!
The function of the bypass tube which was added in 1997 is increase lube flow during cold weather operations. No forward was due to bad forward clutch pack
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the responce. What cycles the tube on and off?
Where are you located
New York on long Island
does the v10 have aluminum planetary too?
I think they come through steel
I have a Linkin Navigator with the same transmission it works fine but when it has been driven 5 to 10 miles it start losing fluid it seems to be coming from the vent tube on top or from the tail shaft housing between the transmission and the housing the filter and fluid have both been replaced every thing abt it works just fine just losing fluid most probably from the vent tube plus the tork converter sounds like a bad power steering pump
Have you checked it on the lift to confirm its not coming from the front seal
Yes
it's definitely from the vent tube or the tail shaft housing I'm abt 95% shur it's the tube
The vent is more towards the bellhousing, just to confirm its not overfull? was anything done to the trans and now this problem?
It's not over filled it was parked because of the air ride other than a few dirt dobbers built some nests in and around things it is at factory settings
the speed sensor hold down bolts are rusted on my 4r100 the head are barely there can't get a vice grip on them either. any suggestions??
You could try that to break them loose, there are certain sockets with "grips" that are made for getting the bolts out when the head is worn
recently a friend of mine repaired the transmission of my 2000 f350 7.3 2wd, it turns out that now the transmission remains in neutral even if you put it on drive, someone commented that I need to calibrate it, I would appreciate your help
Does not need calibration, How is reverse? How is the fluid level? How many quarts were added?
@@GaryFerraro the fluid is new (motorcraft mercon v) I put 18 quarts and the riversa does the same, Thanks for answering me, I hope you can help me
I got P0741 code mechanic told me it was my solenoid pack. It looks like drop the pan, unbolt pack put new one in and bolt pan up done.
Got some hard shifting with O/D light flashing at 45 mph.
Just happened to me as well. For you did you have a wiring issue or was it the solenoid?
Many of the internal parts remind me of a C6. The planetaries , drive shell, FWD. drum, and the way the rear piston is held in with the sprag race. Can the stator tube be pressed out, I noticed that it had some bolts in it.
Thank you for making this video. Perfect timing! I just started rebuilding my sons' 4r100 from his '99 Ford F250. It had no low. After getting it apart we found the frictions (low) were worn down to the metal. That explained why low wasn't working, but not how it happened. Until we started cleaning all the components, where I found a crack in the hub of the forward clutch housing that went right through the 2 sealing rings!
Couple of questions. Do you use and/or recommend the Transgo "Tugger" kit.
Besides what you talk about in your video, what do you recommend to make the 4r100 last as long as possible?
I use the transgo shiftkit on every overhaul. I dont do many upgrades, i put in a new set of pump gears, i change the case bushings, pump bushing and the direct drum bushings to keep everything running true. I also change the shell, they like to crack and on the sungear i knock out the upper bushings(according to how the sun gear sits in the case) closer to the foward planet, for better lube to the foward planetary gearset, and on the foward hub i change out the snap ring to a superior super tuff snap ring.
@@GaryFerraro recently a friend of mine repaired the transmission of my 2000 f350 7.3 2wd, it turns out that now the transmission remains in neutral even if you put it on drive, someone commented that I need to calibrate it, I would appreciate your help
@@hanoimartinez571 Bro I'm retired but I know Gary has done many many units that a do it yourselfer has done. They usually cost someone like yourself a lot of money and broken and missing parts. When they have parts leftover they don't anyone to know about they just throw them away.I know this gentleman has seen this. I have had to charge someone a cpl hundred extra for this.In addition most all those new parts are no good.Automatic transmissions are for pro's. Guys who are amateurs should not try this good luck
1993 E350 7.3L diesel how do i know if the transmission is for a diesel?
Mac Skymackski Bellhousing is different from a gas vehicle
ok the issue is the engine doesn't lug so there is no power, RPM is to high dropping gears to quick, like a gas engine powerband how about that?
@@maccskybsky8084 are there any codes present for the trans?
I don't have a code reader, i just know the transmission is downshifting taking the engine out of lugging
@@maccskybsky8084 so this has sentive downshifts?
I would actually guess the way those new 2016 transmissions, would still have a rebuilt 4r100 with the new snap rings, pistons, and sun gears. I am not complaining about the part finishes, the shallow drums, or that quick throttle body, without the piston gears 3-5.
The 16 cars probably have the 6 speed transmissions called 6R80
1989 F350 now C6... Converting to E4OD or 4R100 with US Control module... Any advice ? thanks for any wisdom.
I honestly have never done that.
Gary, great video, and very informative. I have a question about my 4r100 in my 02 F250psd. I have started having very soft 1-2 and 2-3 shifts to the point that it almost feels like slippage, let off the throttle and it will basically fall into the next gear after a couple seconds of hesitation. I have pulled the pan, pulled the accumulator body out, verified no broken springs, cleaned it all up, and put it back together with synthetic fluids and new filter. Test drive was great, then take an hour trip to verify, and pulling off the highway, the first time coming to a complete stop, it goes right back into super soft shifts and having to hold out each gear. No codes.
My question, does it sound like the unit needs to be dropped and rebuilt? Or are there any other tricks I can do to fix this soft shift issue?
Thanks again
Did you try yelling at it?
The thing you called low reverse "race"....is actually the low sprag race...as you know it holds the reverse spring return in place. This unit is a C-6 with o drive on the front. As far as I'm concerned the C-6 was the best automatic transmission ever built.(a chevy man lol) Sort of ironic the same weak point exist in this unit...the forward clutch. That inner piston seal got hard in the C-6...causing a delay in fwd range when they were cold..was this one hard?..
You have a nice shop thanks for the nice video. Transmissions got my lungs and back ...hope yours are better than mine. Take care brother..Bill
Awesome video Gary! How in the world do you get everything back together, and in the right places?
FredFlintstone21 many years of rebuilding. Seminars and reading up on transmissions
That makes sense. I program cnc milling machines, which has taken years to get good at it. Sometimes good experience comes from bad experience, and I like to pass my bad experiences on to trainees so they don't make the same mistakes. I have an 02 excursion with a 7.3, the trans works great, but I'd like to beef it up so it can handle more hp.
Great video I just have a question will the broken springs in the accumulator cause any problems
Firm shift. A sort of home made shift improver...lol
Hi Garry. I have a problem with a Suzuki Grand Vitara 2002 problem. I have a customer that swap transmission and now the trans won't shift to revers but if I put the car in the air shift normally. I just want to know what most likely is the problem. By the way I think the pump is bad because have a whining noise or a clogged trans filter. I hope I explained myself well because english is not my primary lenguage.
how does the car work in foward gears?
Gary Ferraro runs heavy like is towing something heavy or running on 3rd. Tomorrow I'm gonna scan the car for codes (of is that has codes). But i ask just to have some direction to look at it. Thank you for your fast respond.
Sounds like its in fail safe, scanning the car would be the next step, if there are codes that would give us direction
Gary Ferraro it was a really clogged trans filter. Thanks for your help
Glad it fixed. Gary
Hey man. I do European stuff almost exclusively, and came across a 6t70 in a 2010 traverse. I had a shift solenoid 4 & 5 low circuit. I took the mechatronics out and found those torn seals on the fronts of the two solenoids. I sold a complete overhaul since it has 200,000 miles. But when I put a new mechatronics on the valvebody later this week, I can program it right? I have a j2534 pass thru but never Did one of these GM trans before. Idk if it even needs to be programed, but I am assuming so, since the TCM is in the mechatronics. Any help is appreciated.
Yes, i can be programmed with the J-tool, i do them all the time, new from the dealer it has to be programmed
Do you recommend software updates on every overhaul that is electronically controlled? I've thought about doing it, but the other transmission shops I ask say they never do software updates with overhauls and don't do their own programming when replacing a TCM...
I only do that when replacing a tcm or reprogramming because of a tsb.
what overhaul kit are you using I'm about to rebuild mine for my 7.3 diesel
I use a Trans Tec overhaul kit, OE quality kit.
Gary, what is your diagnosis as to why this transmission was in bad shape? Lack of maintenance, driven hard,... what's the root cause?
after watching the video, looks like pump wear caused clutch slippage, which the computer noticed, increased pressure to compensate for slippage, and the process kept going until catastrophic failure?
Hello, i would say lack of maintence, also i found the factory cooler to be leaking which probably ignored. So i did the overhaul and installed a new factory cooler and all is well. I would think they never checked the trans fluid, when i started to slip they just added until it started to slip again, eventually the foward clutch failed
Gary Ferraro lack of fluid is bad! Thanks for the response!
yes it is, so is heat
do you know what would be in my 97 mercury marquis ? some say it's a 4r70w
Yes it should be a 4R70W, Is there a problem with the trans? I am a subscriber to hiram's channel. Gary
thank you , so far its been a great transmission but it is a little spongy on the 1-2 shift .
any codes present for the trans?
no , it just doesn't have a nice firm shift from first to second and the fluid is beautifully pink with no burned smell . I'm just super picky . the reason I was asking if it was a 4R70W is I want to watch a video about it so I can rebuild it when it goes out . thank you for answering my question .
Ok, when it comes time and you want to firm up the shift, you would have to addresss the acummulator and springs in the trans, that should firm up the shift
My transmission wont go into forward or reverse it stays in park, and when I try to put it into gear i can't feel it, when it's in gear and I put it back into park it makes a really loud grinding noise until I turn it off any recommendations ??
The shifter does move through the dentents? (park, rev., neutral,drive) Just the car wont move?
ugh that fluid looks bad bad
IVE GOT NO CODE OVER DRIVE DOES NOT SHIFT INTO AND LIGHT ON SHIFTER DOESN'T GO OUT EVERYTHING ELSE DRIVES GOOD AND SHIFTS JUST NO OVER DRIVE BUT IT DID WORK LIKE 3 TIMES WHEN COLD ONE DAY
When you say light on shifter, that may be the overdrive cancel switch, if its lit, car will have no o/d, only shift to 3rd, may have a wire shorted at the handel
right i cant get the light out and i checked wiring the switch on light may be bad but the light never does go out yet at times i did get the trans to shift into over drive so i know my switch on shifter is talking to trans also
its brand new switch also the old one had no switch it was gone ,bought it used
Take a look at where the switch plugs into, those wires may be shorted
i did no blown fuse either light stays lit just cant shut it off also like i said the trans did shift into over drive a few times since i installed the new switch actually the entire shifter
Great video I just have a question will the broken springs in the accumulator cause any problems
broken accumulator springs will cause hard shifts
Great video I just have a question will the broken springs in the accumulator cause any problems