Hey good work I own a snanding seam company and we roll form all our panels just a tip when you bend the female end around that little bottom corner that was sticking out needs clipped off or ice will catch it and bend it out overtime awesome work man
Nice vid. Especially impressed by your practice of backing off the sheet from drip edge to allow for contraction in cold conditions. Many installers on YT push the panel tight to the drip edge, which looks like a future problem to my inexperienced eye.
Thank you for the video, great information. I am considering a standing seam roof. I am watching many videos but I would really like to actually get some hands on experience.
When you fold rib ends they need to tuck inside themself or nature will open them up. Since your roof needs to breathe its okay, and generally preferable to leave the panel's standing seam ribs open. Standing seams are, contrary to popular belief, not water proof. The smaller striations are funny enough called ribs, too, and have both cosmetic and functional purpose. They hide oil canning that is inherent with using metal. And they allow additional breathing. Some manufacturers have indented bumps on the fixed rib side along the panel; the fixed rib must be screwed off per manufacturer details of course. But those indents allow you to get slightly better airflow as your screw won't tighter down that tight to the roof, trapping moisture. Generally the fixed rib side is also taller so your entire panel has an air gap underneath, which is why its desirable to use an underlayment that is tight to the roof surface. Bonus if you have diagonal purlins to mount against. (Straight purlins trap water of course.). Its all about keeping airflow to dry out the underside if you want a standing seam to last its full life.
The panels are ordered by length generally longer than necessary and cut to fit. Cutting excess is simple. You can remove much easier than add, and they can be run from either direction, plus the bottom edge goes in and out. Pre cuts may not fit the bottom edge profile properly.
Hello there, how do the boys flash two 45 degree sheets on the ridge, keeping the standing seam or ridge profile or prickle along the top of the ridge please? I'm looking for a 12 inch ridge cap but must have no welding folded to 45 degrees for architectural appearance, rather than basic flat ridge cap. Thankyou.
Typically you use z-metal to fill the top of the panel and clip your ridge cap to the z. The ridge cap is basically springloaded once installed and won't come off unless you mean to remove it. Some people will throw mesh under the cap to ensure its critter free, especially if the z isn't precisely fit for closing off the top.
@MadRat70 thankyou for the advice. I'm thinking about cutting the up right ridges in the center of a 6' wide sheet. Some how folding the sheet to 45 degrees, placing 45 degree triangle caps on the ridges by some soldering method to make a flashing 45 degree hat on the ridge. The cap hat would be hot dip galvanized , painted and clipped onto th ridges of the roof. The prickle look on the apex would be achieved and I would have 3' cover either side of the ridge. What a mission. 24 meters of roof apex to do. Can't believe there is nothing on the market. Thanks mate. Andrew New Zealand
@@aandscrawfoski Is this on a hip roof? You can run ridge cap up the hips and then tie them altogether at the peak. Do the peak last so you avoid backlaps. You can also cut a triangular endcap to terminate ridecaps on hip roofs.
@MadRat70 thanks for the reply, roof is identical to the California architectural home with gables. The 1960 minimalist working man's home is called an Eichler double gable. The roof is made with tar paper and stone chip. (Torch down) But I'm going with vertical rib roof with what we call caterbury prickle. Note that the Eichler double gable ,has a unique shape incorporating 5 degree mono profile roof at its high point the changes to a cathedral 45 degree pitch. Note that the barn look is not happening as the 5 degree mono pitch gives you the minimalist 1960 look. The key is not to have the standard flashing capping that everyone goes for but to expose the vertical rib roof ridges meeting at the peck 45 degrees. Or the ridge goes from one 45 cathedral pitch to the other in a continuous run or line. No horrible flashing hiding the vertical ridge line Looks old school but looks cool and architectural. Thanks mate Yes my wife says I'm a pain in the rear also. God dos not make robots
@@aandscrawfoski The hedgehog profile I've never done. Looks easy if you make your own prickle caps. I prefer hidden fasteners so the trick looks to be how to complete it as such.
Looks like so many other videos out there. Video shot from long distance, not enough close up, installers who are great installers but poor teachers. And on top of that, you have to understand that the diy industry has many brands of snap lock with some having striations that may not bend cleanly at the eve bend as you demonstrated. If you are doing video to educate, then give more detail. Otherwise it’s just another 4 minute unedited video.
Hey good work I own a snanding seam company and we roll form all our panels just a tip when you bend the female end around that little bottom corner that was sticking out needs clipped off or ice will catch it and bend it out overtime awesome work man
Nice vid. Especially impressed by your practice of backing off the sheet from drip edge to allow for contraction in cold conditions. Many installers on YT push the panel tight to the drip edge, which looks like a future problem to my inexperienced eye.
Thank you for the video, great information. I am considering a standing seam roof. I am watching many videos but I would really like to actually get some hands on experience.
Great video. Thanks for posting!
When you fold rib ends they need to tuck inside themself or nature will open them up. Since your roof needs to breathe its okay, and generally preferable to leave the panel's standing seam ribs open. Standing seams are, contrary to popular belief, not water proof. The smaller striations are funny enough called ribs, too, and have both cosmetic and functional purpose. They hide oil canning that is inherent with using metal. And they allow additional breathing. Some manufacturers have indented bumps on the fixed rib side along the panel; the fixed rib must be screwed off per manufacturer details of course. But those indents allow you to get slightly better airflow as your screw won't tighter down that tight to the roof, trapping moisture. Generally the fixed rib side is also taller so your entire panel has an air gap underneath, which is why its desirable to use an underlayment that is tight to the roof surface. Bonus if you have diagonal purlins to mount against. (Straight purlins trap water of course.). Its all about keeping airflow to dry out the underside if you want a standing seam to last its full life.
Yes I work for a sheet metal and roofing company in North Carolina for 9 years it's tough work thank God I'm retired
What are those 2 benders called? What sizes are they? Thx!
where do you buy the bending tools . looking where to buy the metal roofing too
amsisupply.com
Will the shares/ snips cut not affect the sheet? cant these sheet come with the ends machine cut..
The panels are ordered by length generally longer than necessary and cut to fit. Cutting excess is simple. You can remove much easier than add, and they can be run from either direction, plus the bottom edge goes in and out. Pre cuts may not fit the bottom edge profile properly.
What brand of snips are you using?
Aluminum roof?
Hello there, how do the boys flash two 45 degree sheets on the ridge, keeping the standing seam or ridge profile or prickle along the top of the ridge please?
I'm looking for a 12 inch ridge cap but must have no welding folded to 45 degrees for architectural appearance, rather than basic flat ridge cap.
Thankyou.
Typically you use z-metal to fill the top of the panel and clip your ridge cap to the z. The ridge cap is basically springloaded once installed and won't come off unless you mean to remove it. Some people will throw mesh under the cap to ensure its critter free, especially if the z isn't precisely fit for closing off the top.
@MadRat70 thankyou for the advice.
I'm thinking about cutting the up right ridges in the center of a 6' wide sheet.
Some how folding the sheet to 45 degrees, placing 45 degree triangle caps on the ridges by some soldering method to make a flashing 45 degree hat on the ridge.
The cap hat would be hot dip galvanized , painted and clipped onto th ridges of the roof.
The prickle look on the apex would be achieved and I would have 3' cover either side of the ridge.
What a mission.
24 meters of roof apex to do.
Can't believe there is nothing on the market.
Thanks mate.
Andrew New Zealand
@@aandscrawfoski Is this on a hip roof? You can run ridge cap up the hips and then tie them altogether at the peak. Do the peak last so you avoid backlaps. You can also cut a triangular endcap to terminate ridecaps on hip roofs.
@MadRat70 thanks for the reply, roof is identical to the California architectural home with gables.
The 1960 minimalist working man's home is called an Eichler double gable.
The roof is made with tar paper and stone chip. (Torch down)
But I'm going with vertical rib roof with what we call caterbury prickle.
Note that the Eichler double gable ,has a unique shape incorporating 5 degree mono profile roof at its high point the changes to a cathedral 45 degree pitch.
Note that the barn look is not happening as the 5 degree mono pitch gives you the minimalist 1960 look.
The key is not to have the standard flashing capping that everyone goes for but to expose the vertical rib roof ridges meeting at the peck 45 degrees.
Or the ridge goes from one 45 cathedral pitch to the other in a continuous run or line. No horrible flashing hiding the vertical ridge line
Looks old school but looks cool and architectural.
Thanks mate
Yes my wife says I'm a pain in the rear also.
God dos not make robots
@@aandscrawfoski The hedgehog profile I've never done. Looks easy if you make your own prickle caps. I prefer hidden fasteners so the trick looks to be how to complete it as such.
Nice job 👍🏻
Thank you!
what brand is your pouch?
Atlas 46
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Looks like so many other videos out there. Video shot from long distance, not enough close up, installers who are great installers but poor teachers. And on top of that, you have to understand that the diy industry has many brands of snap lock with some having striations that may not bend cleanly at the eve bend as you demonstrated. If you are doing video to educate, then give more detail. Otherwise it’s just another 4 minute unedited video.