Dr. Tim sitting there not being able to talk most of the time think wtf bro I'm the star here 🤣🤣 1 of the most informative videos to date on the subject Thanks guys, Special thanks to Dr. Tim for this its always a pleasure listening to your knowledge
A little note about phosphate: it's not the SOURCE of the energy (electron) that fuels the body (because that's carbon, hence carbs as energy source), but phosphor is the CARRIER of the energy when the body shuttles that energy around. Carbon cannot do that, so most of the body's energy needs have to come from the phosphor that's carrying it around, but carbon is the source of the energy that the phosphor carries.
The problem I see by turning of protein skimmer is that the level in the sump will change and then mu Ato level is under water. Then I guess wouldn't then salinity go out of wack as no reverse osmosis top off is now happening ?
Is there a bacteria that focuses more on the surfaces of rock & substrate? Which could then work well with chaeto which only pulls out what's in the water column.
Good question, esp since you know high phos & nite caused it.. BUT.. if you're reading 0's that's not good either because 0 can cause dinos. The problem is.. once the gha is there.. you have phos & nite..but the gha has it all.. SO.. .. the best thing to do is .. Manually remove all you can.. but FIRST.. IDENTIFY a rock that has a good amount of gha on.. you are able to easily remove.. & preferably has no coral on it.. or coral you can move.. NOW, remove ALL YOU CAN MANUALLY.. With a hand pinch and scrub/siphoning.. EXCEPT.. on the IDENTIFIED ROCK. Let that Grow.. & grow and grooww. BECAUSE you'll never get all that gha out of all the little spots.. so this ONE rock will act as refugium does except this gha rock is pulling all the exact Same source the gha used to grow in the first place and the little spots you couldnt reach will slowly fade away because they cant outcompete the gha rock.. Once you see it all gone elsewhere.. REMOVE THE ROCK.. WHICH IS THE ONLY GHA LEFT. make sure & test for phos & note after this.. and get them to the proper levels if they're at zero.
Know this is old but figure u may still respond… so my tank is about 3-3.5months old and right now I have turf algae gha and Dinos all over my rocks and I’m stumped I can’t get it to slow down I keep havin to scrub the rocks and still only get rid of half of it 2-4 times a wk and I don’t know where to turn next??? My nitrates are at 5 and phosphates didn’t register but that’s with an api test so take it as it is, at least I know they’re not sky high, I’m debating on buying either vibrant or microbacter clean but am open to suggestions as well! I kinda worry with vibrant seems there’s randomly something with peoples tanks that it interacts with and kills coral but I only have 8 corals and 2 anemones and all are small except a big hammer(which is the one that really concerns me) and one of the anemones is about 8in across so I guess if there were a time to try it it’s be now before I fill the tank all the way up… I got a diy algae scrubber started a few days ago too soon to know whether it’s helping or not but I don’t think it’s bc my nutrients are high but what would u guys suggest?? It’s borderline defeating me it’s everywhere and I’m gettin sick of spending an hr every night tryin to remove what lil bit I can it’s annoying I’d rather spend that time enjoying the tank
In regards to the Cyno solution, a bit confused. If Cyno is getting it's take per the air (gas exchange) and that will always be there, how does raising the Nitrate in the water solve the Cyno problem? Is this due to more good bacteria being present due to the good bacteria getting its take on nitrogen from the Nitrates?
I have a 15 g with nutrient problems.. to small for a refugium? Anything new out there these days for nanos you recommend in replace of a refugium type filtration
Thank you for the video! I’m battling something now and about to pull my hair out. I can’t figure out if it’s cyano or Dino. It’s reddish on rocks and sand. And has tiny bubbles that release in air when I try to remove it. Any ideas which one it is?
Add a sample of the red algae/bacteria it to a jar of clear alcohol. If the liquid goes red, it is bacteria, if the substance stays red and does not dissolve, it is an algae.
I dont have high nitrates or phospates but insane GHA. Does that mean its my lighting? also isnt it better to run blue spectrum and less white? Asking because Dr Tim only mention blue spectrum also red isnt less red better if you have gha? It goes away with peroxide but comes back! In my other tank at one point I had 0 po4 and low no3 and had what I believe was dinos , now its changed into a greenish/red /whitish film only on walls and wavemaker and my rocks are dusty looking. My sand is white as can be. Do I just keep up the regimen of dosing bacteria and using uv stelizer? Is the glass the last to leave and maybe the dusty rocks is it denigrating ? Why would I have dusty rocks and film on walls if I my sand is so white? It used to be snotty and all over the sand and rocks. What the heck could this be? I thought of adding copepods or photo or both and adding peroxide and bubble scrubbing or should I just keep doing what I am doing? Great video!
Ok, so I got something really important out of this video and I have a question, my tank has a full height overflow and it is always full of still salt water (overflow is at the top). Should I place a pump at the bottom of this overflow to circulate this water? Or fill it something to displace water, if so what? Is this a dead spot you are talking about?
FasttLife Well it’s definitely been fight to keep the tank algae free all these years. That will be a lot of balls, but it would displace a lot of water
Hey heard that dr time mentioned to turn the skimmer off for 3 hours or so. I have a HOB that stores a bit of water. Would I need to dump that water in the HOB reservoir after the 3 hours?
Great video! Should’ve let Dr. Tim talk a little more, though. Why have him on if you won’t let him talk?
Dr. Tim sitting there not being able to talk most of the time think wtf bro I'm the star here 🤣🤣 1 of the most informative videos to date on the subject Thanks guys, Special thanks to Dr. Tim for this its always a pleasure listening to your knowledge
Absolutely one of the most informative nest shows I've seen. That's to mark and DR. Tim.
A little note about phosphate: it's not the SOURCE of the energy (electron) that fuels the body (because that's carbon, hence carbs as energy source), but phosphor is the CARRIER of the energy when the body shuttles that energy around. Carbon cannot do that, so most of the body's energy needs have to come from the phosphor that's carrying it around, but carbon is the source of the energy that the phosphor carries.
This was a great talk, every single second was worthy.
Great video Mark and Dr. Tim.
Great video, Tim’s dead pan face even at your quality jokes cracked me up
This was gold! Thank you so much to both of you.
I appreciate you all! Thank you much!
Thanks, Mark. Met Dr. Tim at MACNA VEGAS- I won the lottery.
Amazing talk so much great information made me turn down my blue light to 80% will re-watch over and over 👍🏼
This one is GOLD!!! Thank you much for making this happen.
1:06:00 .. OMG .. I WISH.. I only had to clean my glass ONCE a Week!
Sterile water parameters? BAAAAAD! 10ppm Nitrate, .04ppm PO4 GOOD! Thats what I learned.....THE HARD WAY! Excellent video Mark and DR Tim, THANK YOU.
Excellent information for when I have a problem with any of this nasty stuff I'm in charge not them
I remember watching that video. Man time flies.
Brilliant video Mark & Dr Tim! 😀👍
This is great info. Thanks!
Fantastic info! Many thanks! 👌😃
Great info thank you.
Tank cycled in a week with All in One...thanks Dr. Tim!
Great and very educational video.
Content rich. If this video was a nitrate test I would give it a 50. 👍
Learned a lot, thank you!
My problem is low nutrients which leads to dinos... So then I dose nitrate up to 1 or 2 ppm and overnight I get GHA blooms...
Drives me CRAZY
Wow this is very helpful !!!! What about using a us sterilizer, I do have clear water but I have dinos.
The problem I see by turning of protein skimmer is that the level in the sump will change and then mu Ato level is under water. Then I guess wouldn't then salinity go out of wack as no reverse osmosis top off is now happening ?
Do you feed your fish during a 3 day dino black out?
I wish someone told me this 2 years ago!!!!
Thanks
What’s a good fish that will pick at rocks and eat my hair algae I only have a 15g
Is there a bacteria that focuses more on the surfaces of rock & substrate? Which could then work well with chaeto which only pulls out what's in the water column.
While fighting GHA and reading 0 nitrate and phosphate, would adding GfO and increasing refugium be a good route?
Good question, esp since you know high phos & nite caused it.. BUT.. if you're reading 0's that's not good either because 0 can cause dinos. The problem is.. once the gha is there.. you have phos & nite..but the gha has it all..
SO.. .. the best thing to do is ..
Manually remove all you can.. but FIRST.. IDENTIFY a rock that has a good amount of gha on.. you are able to easily remove.. & preferably has no coral on it.. or coral you can move..
NOW, remove ALL YOU CAN MANUALLY..
With a hand pinch and scrub/siphoning..
EXCEPT.. on the IDENTIFIED ROCK.
Let that Grow.. & grow and grooww.
BECAUSE you'll never get all that gha out of all the little spots.. so this ONE rock will act as refugium does except this gha rock is pulling all the exact Same source the gha used to grow in the first place and the little spots you couldnt reach will slowly fade away because they cant outcompete the gha rock..
Once you see it all gone elsewhere..
REMOVE THE ROCK.. WHICH IS THE ONLY GHA LEFT.
make sure & test for phos & note after this.. and get them to the proper levels if they're at zero.
I want to know if i can substitute Refresh with One and Only for the Dino recipe? my LFS didn't have Refresh.
One and only is used for cycling a tank, not for Dinos
How do I know if I'm feeding my coral and and anemone too much? Because I can follow the instructions on the bottle but it might be too much
Know this is old but figure u may still respond… so my tank is about 3-3.5months old and right now I have turf algae gha and Dinos all over my rocks and I’m stumped I can’t get it to slow down I keep havin to scrub the rocks and still only get rid of half of it 2-4 times a wk and I don’t know where to turn next??? My nitrates are at 5 and phosphates didn’t register but that’s with an api test so take it as it is, at least I know they’re not sky high, I’m debating on buying either vibrant or microbacter clean but am open to suggestions as well! I kinda worry with vibrant seems there’s randomly something with peoples tanks that it interacts with and kills coral but I only have 8 corals and 2 anemones and all are small except a big hammer(which is the one that really concerns me) and one of the anemones is about 8in across so I guess if there were a time to try it it’s be now before I fill the tank all the way up… I got a diy algae scrubber started a few days ago too soon to know whether it’s helping or not but I don’t think it’s bc my nutrients are high but what would u guys suggest?? It’s borderline defeating me it’s everywhere and I’m gettin sick of spending an hr every night tryin to remove what lil bit I can it’s annoying I’d rather spend that time enjoying the tank
How would you best deal with Bubble Algea?
In regards to the Cyno solution, a bit confused. If Cyno is getting it's take per the air (gas exchange) and that will always be there, how does raising the Nitrate in the water solve the Cyno problem? Is this due to more good bacteria being present due to the good bacteria getting its take on nitrogen from the Nitrates?
I have a 15 g with nutrient problems.. to small for a refugium? Anything new out there these days for nanos you recommend in replace of a refugium type filtration
I use uv at night only , should i close those also when i close the skimmer at night;
i have 8 oz refresh and 16 oz waste away , should i use ALL of refresh and then use treatment waste away ? or , use both products simultaneously ?
Thank you for the video! I’m battling something now and about to pull my hair out. I can’t figure out if it’s cyano or Dino. It’s reddish on rocks and sand. And has tiny bubbles that release in air when I try to remove it. Any ideas which one it is?
Add a sample of the red algae/bacteria it to a jar of clear alcohol. If the liquid goes red, it is bacteria, if the substance stays red and does not dissolve, it is an algae.
I dont have high nitrates or phospates but insane GHA. Does that mean its my lighting? also isnt it better to run blue spectrum and less white? Asking because Dr Tim only mention blue spectrum also red isnt less red better if you have gha? It goes away with peroxide but comes back! In my other tank at one point I had 0 po4 and low no3 and had what I believe was dinos , now its changed into a greenish/red /whitish film only on walls and wavemaker and my rocks are dusty looking. My sand is white as can be. Do I just keep up the regimen of dosing bacteria and using uv stelizer? Is the glass the last to leave and maybe the dusty rocks is it denigrating ? Why would I have dusty rocks and film on walls if I my sand is so white? It used to be snotty and all over the sand and rocks. What the heck could this be? I thought of adding copepods or photo or both and adding peroxide and bubble scrubbing or should I just keep doing what I am doing? Great video!
🤔 what if you have some GHA as well as cyano
What if I have cyano and GHA...
how abaout hight nitrate>50ppm and low phosphate
I wish I had the opportunity to ask
The dr about what to do for red turf algae.
I think I might have the same problem.
Turns out urchins mow it down really good to the bear rock.
Considering adding ten of them to my 300 gallon
@@mikereuter4965 wow a 300, mine is a 30 but i think I beat it, can’t find it anywhere in the tank👍
Chaeto is not $100 is ny lol
Whats the point in having a guest if he just sits and watches?
More Dr. Tim less Mark would have been nice.
Hey Mark, have you ever encounter with red turf algea in any of your clients tanks? And if so how have you beat it? Thanks
Where do i send video of my tank for a review by you?
Ok, so I got something really important out of this video and I have a question, my tank has a full height overflow and it is always full of still salt water (overflow is at the top). Should I place a pump at the bottom of this overflow to circulate this water? Or fill it something to displace water, if so what? Is this a dead spot you are talking about?
I put marine pure balls in my overflow. But if something isn’t broke then don’t fix it.
FasttLife Well it’s definitely been fight to keep the tank algae free all these years. That will be a lot of balls, but it would displace a lot of water
Pro tip. When you have an expert guest he should be allowed to talk more than you.
When the guest expert asks you to do most of the talking and he'll jump in as he sees fit, I'll honor their request
@@Saltwateraquariumdotcom well said!
I hated this video, this guy doesnt know when to stop talking and let the expert talk!!
Hey heard that dr time mentioned to turn the skimmer off for 3 hours or so. I have a HOB that stores a bit of water. Would I need to dump that water in the HOB reservoir after the 3 hours?