THIN internal wall insulation 30% GAINS!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ธ.ค. 2023
- COSY, WARM & MOULD FREE ! ❤️
When we arrived at this property in Coventry these walls were cold, damp and mouldy.
We have now completely turned that around with a revolutionary product at only 6 millimetres thick!
If you are searching for Internal wall insulation companies in Coventry and Warwickshire your search is over.
In this video I walk you through a recent job where I am installing market leading thin internal wall insulation made from CORK. Yes CORK.
The benefits of this versatile product are endless and include:
🌳 Thermal value increase
🌳 Sound reduction
🌳 Eliminates condensation and black mould issues
🌳100% natural & sustainable
🌳 Breathable
🌳Fire proof 🔥
🌳No floor space lost!
Do you live in an old property in the Warwickshire area and want to arrange a free no obligation survey?
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Hit the link to arrange a quick online estimate on your walls 👇
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Thank you
#thininternalwallinsulationwarwickshire
#spraycork
#corkinsulation
#blackspotmouldfixes
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It looks like the fireplace in that room hasn’t been used in a while. One of the best ways of preventing damp issues in solid walls is the have a good shot of heat in the room regularly.
A log burner would be a good option for that.
Great video, thanks for posting.
I've seen a few of these videos and do think that, for the majority of older UK housing stock, this should be a first consideration. The effectiveness, without having to get a plumber in, to reposition radiator pipes, and an electrician, to extend cables to allow for insulated plasterboard, etc. and the time saved is impressive. Thanks also for mentioning where you learned of the "30% reduction" in heat loss. I was looking for a point of reference in case anyone asks "can you prove it?".
Good luck in all you endeavours. Best wishes, Rob
Wow thanks for the great info 👍🏻 your great at explaining it all.
Great video Stu!!!! 13k views! Smashing it! Get in...Stu really know his stuff and the game 👍
Wow! Fisrt ever video on TH-cam tht showed u the gap btween the florboard and wall and about plaster and what to except in an old house behind wall paper! Fantastic!
Can I ask, if it’s mixed with resin, how does this still breathe? Cheers
Very interesting. Thank you.
Great solution. One thing to beware of is keeping sufficient ventilation. Sealing up all gaps and eliminating drafts may keep the heat in but we still need fresh air movement. Also even though the cork breaths, the renders and plasters underneath may not. Anyway, it does look like a good system and keeps the cork industry alive which is another plus.
Yeah, I assume this is the reason trickle vents in windows are in the regs now i.e. new builds whilst very well insulated became too air-tight reducing air quality. I think when retro-fitting an older property there seems to be a lot of conflicting information on what is best (the example in the vid being lime plaster and breathability). Seems to me you've got to look at an overall picture of an individual property to find a good balance point.
@@blairkingsley6440
Actually, older properties can be more airtight than newer properties because they used wet plastering and haven’t engineered everything to costs.
The video I found here was very interesting in that respect: th-cam.com/video/Va4qsH6pdEU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=j_1fqkUtN-rzobhA
@@christianu8023I found this video really interesting. Thank you.
This one has me baffled, you mention that the original lime has mould on the surface, yet you say that this was below wallpaper, which clearly would have been trapping any moisture that the lime was trying to release, so don't view this as a lime failure.
Looking at the data sheet for the product, as it has a thermal conductivity of 0.065W/mK, I can only imagine that this is 'limiting heat loss' predominantly by sealing draughts as at that thermal level it's not going to be working very hard. Bear in mind that fibreglass is 0.04W/mK and Kingspan etc can be down to 0.022.
Then to top it, you mention it's a solid wall, talk about the breathability of the product and then apply Gypsum plaster over the top, which isn't breathable.
Scary stuff all in all.
To be clear, I'm not criticising the workmanship here, but the fundamental principles are all mixed up.
You've raised some fair points and I appreciate the feedback although I'm hesitant when getting into discussions with viewers who have no profile image or display a real name? I hope you don't take this the wrong way, Many on here are out to cause trouble and hide behind an avatar. If you want genuine discussions I suggest disclosing your real name and photo of yourself? I've already had to block one individual today as things quickly turn nasty I'm happy for viewers to ask questions and challenge what I do and say but atleast tell me your name?
Anyway back to your comments, by no means is this product as thermally effective as thicker insulation products. it's a thin option for those who either do not want the hassle of rads + fixtures being removed and replaced or are on a budget or do not wish to lose the floor space. The cork layers stop condensation from forming on solid walls by raising the thermal value enough therefore eliminating the issue of black spot mould so for me this product is ideal for treating the issue of condensation and black spot mould and at only 6mm corksol state that this product indeed gives a thermal improvement of 30% the science behind this statement corksol stand behind so better to talk direct to the supplier of the product if you wish to challenge this?
You could be right about the patch of lime being covered in paper previously or even a heavy piece of furniture may have been close to the wall who knows I can say I have seen this issue before with lime walls I'm not bashing lime its lovely stuff but I don't think it's a cure for all.
Most of the lime plaster in this property actually has already been replaced with gypsum and cement probably in the 60's or 70's I did not suggest anywhere that I am using cork in this job for breathability I simply mentioned in the video that the corksol could be used with a lime skim if breathability is important.
Again I'm happy to answer questions but would prefer if people atleast include a real name
Get thd floor insulated if you can it will be 2-3days extra work but will make a huge difference
Looks brilliant
Wow I'm impressed with that grat video
very good work
Great video but I imagine the mould growth is more an issue with the wallpaper as it traps moisture between the paper and the plaster finish and the glue and paper also provide a wonderful environment for mould to flourish. By removing the paper you reinstate a lot of the wall's breathability so mould growth should reduce. We found a lot of mould on our solid 9 inch and 4.5 inch bay brick walls plastered mostly with lime behind the wallpaper, which since being remomed and washed down two years ago hasn't had any mould growth. Instead of wallpaper we've patched up the walls with filler and painted a breathable paint on for the decorative finish. Not saying don't insulate as this is great for improving thermal performance, energy efficiency and comfort, but it's not necessarily essential for tackling condensation issues, depending on the circumstances.
Interesting video - good job. QQ`s if you don`t mind: how long did it take?, how messy was it? & how much does it cost please?.
great video content but turn your radio off
This stuff is good but maybe is Spain or Portugal. Here is Uk its very damp and cold, you need 25mm insulation that will make a difference, using 4 or 5mm cork wont give huge energy savings.
Walls get cold, people breathe out moisture, this will condense onto the cold walls. Cooking adds to the moisture. As does bathrooms, and drying clothes on radiators and clothes stands.
Dehumidify.
Fit a trickle vent.
Fireplace chimney, is this vent closed or open? What way, does it allow cold moist air to come down the chimney and dampen the walls?
Are there any air vents in that room?
What is the humidity reading in that room on average?
@@Google_Does_Evil_NowCouple of points here, I have non-functioning fireplace that has been boarded out. I fitted an airvent and when it's open the draught id always into the chimney.
If space available, fittting MVHR in the attic is best for old properties.
Thank you for explaining this system.
My one concern is that with the price of energy, rather than going for a 30% improvement to an uninsulated solid wall, the client really ought to be chasing something like a 90% improvement.
How would you achieve a 90% improvement please?
@ookoro More insulation in the walls, also look at underfloor insulation as well as on the external wall in between floors. The cost can quickly get away from you though and if you do get properly airtight (this kind of solution looks like it provides suitable airtightness as well as insulation) though you really should be thinking of MVHR for ventilation.
@@MichaelHalpenny The issue in the video above is surely that space in that room is at a premium. It's a solid brick wall so the only solution is internal insulation, but the more of that you add, the less space you have in the room.
@dallan7740 The point about the size of the room is well taken. My comment was about how you might achieve a 90% reduction.
This is very much shallow retrofit rather than deep retrofit and you'd need to go deep to get 90%, might need to do windows as well but gets very expensive very quickly. Sometimes this kind of work is the best balance that can be achieved.
P.S. It's possible to use external wall insulation on a single leaf building assuming that there are no planning issues. Tends to get expensive though.
@@ookoroThe U-value of a 1 brick solid wall plastered is about 2.2 watts/m2 degreeC. With 7mm cork insulation, U-Value is about 1.7, so 30% better. Wall dry lined with 25mm polystyrene backed plasterbpoard U-value about 0.9 so about 140% better. Current Building regulations for domestic walls is that U-value of walls should be less than 0.3 so 630% better than the existing.
Old school was have gaps in floor around skirtings to prevent dampness with airflo. Then we had remove plaster 1 mtr above the floor and apply water proof plaster on the wall because of dampness build up in old plaster. Then we had remove all that because it was holding the dampness in the brick and replace with breathable plaster. I have been through all this, all work designated by structural engineers over the last 50 years so forgive me for being a but sceptical when in my opinion is to buy a dehumidifier to stop dampness and research this product for long term durability.
I understand the insulation factors but what are the ramifications.
How did you remove the mold from the existing wall before you re plastered it..
Great video, how much does this cost to do?
What about horizontal insulation on ground level? In my opinion they do not exist and were not repaired. The wall will be penetreted by mold under nice cork cover. Was the cork insulation sprayed or spread with a trowel?
As long as the cold draft from the floor isn't tackled, the mould will return. Maybe not on the wall, but it might be on any cold surface e.g. around the windows.
You could put flooring boards over the original floor boards down stairs and make sure they’re properly sealed to stop the drafts.
What primer do you use before the cork is sprayed and do you primer the cork before plaster?
Yes good shout. A 4mm floor panel overlay will make a difference and decent underlay
The primer was a basic PVA mix. No primer is required for skimming over the cork 👍
@@SDRobertsPlastering I’m a plasterer do you get much work doing this domestically or is it more of you do it when the works there because I’ve looked at doing other stuff but it’s always traveling miles or the works intermittent?
You mentioned there was wallpaper on the walls previously, do you know what sort? Was it some sort that was not breathable? Looks like a condensation issue helping to create the mould. Would love to see what this property looks like in a year. Very interesting 🤔.
I plan to do my own long-term case study on the cork coatings on a property I own
Great idea as it creates a thermal break, reducing condensation for mould growth 👍
Is there a product like this that does not have to be sprayed but can be plastered/rendered on the walls?
Why is it all the best plasterers and tradesman are nowhere near South Yorkshire 😢
they day insualtion but how can it be if its only 8mm
I think it would help to gain wider acceptance if the product has a BBA Certification, as standard
It sounds like this does a good job at reducing echo too? Can this be left un-skimmed or will it flake off if rubbed against?
Yes the cork is a fantastic acoustic insulator also.
It can be left bare it will not flake off. This product can be used externally and has been through rigourous pull tests
If I wanted to spray my walls with this after removing my wallpaper and leave it bare - no skimming after, is this very expensive than having a normal skimming done to smooth out the wall?
That's interesting, cheers for sharing, looks easy to skim over, bit like blue grit. Is it worth zinsser on original surface before spraying?
Painting Zinser on as a primer would be a vapour barrier on the cols side of insulation, so you would get condensation and mould problems again.
@@robertsmart7484 I was thinking that the masonry or cavity is the first insulative material, so it would be fine may be?
@@bikerchrisukk It's a solid wall, so no cavity. But a vapour barrier on the plaster might just be OK, because the thin layer of cork isn't very insulating - it adds a bit less thermal resistance than the 9" brick wall, so a vapour barrier on the plaster may be perhaps 3/8 the way through the overall insulation of the wall, which may be OK.
@@robertsmart7484 That's what I was thinking. If there was 100mm of PIR internally, I'd definitely say VCL should go on warm side, then plasterboard. Mind you, cavity/air gap would be helpful in that situation. Doing a job at moment where existing is 9" external wall external leaf, 1" cavity, 4" stud with full fibreglass infill and then weirdly 2 x half inch plasterboard. I guess they wanted something solid to fix to, but if starting from scratch I do OSB then pboard
Do you have to prime the walls before spraying the cork on? And do you skim straight on top of the cork when dry no priming also?
No primers required
Ensure surface is clean ,dust free and sound.
No primer needed when skimming the cork 👍
If the walls are very old I sometimes apply a weak mix of PVA for belt & braces approach
@@SDRobertsPlastering thanks mate 👍
Have you got an approx cost for this please? I'm from Cov too, and have a house in Brum that it might be suitable for, as I dont want to pump the cavity
Hi,
I have a link in my bio you can upload images and information. Costs vary alot job to job with IWI
Sorry if my question is stupid, the tiles in my kitchen are so cold in winter = was thinking about taking them up and put carpet down but with your video = made me think what if I just put cork tiles on top , I know it’s not related to your video but it was the cork subject that made think that way and no don’t take drugs , what’s your thoughts apart I need to get out more.
No such thing as a stupid question in my view. There are indeed cork tiles you can purchase relatively cheap too. You could bond them over existing tiles but then you'd have to cover with another layer of finished floor because I doubt they would be durable enough to withstand the day to day foot traffic etc without breaking down unless you opt for a laminate board that has cork inside two layers of wood flooring
@@SDRobertsPlastering Thank you kind soul for replying, I was going to buy a few cork tiles self adhesive type just out of curiosity, did I see you use a item that can see what the temperature is like a gun thing that you point to the wall ? I don’t know what there are called would like to buy one if they are not too expensive and don’t know which are good or rubbish = like most things in life can get good items and ones that are more landfill, have no idea what the name or brand that is good, I do know my floors and walls are so cold that I was also thinking of getting some cork rolls to see or try different things as you would do with wallpaper, watching your video has given me lots of ideas , so if the don’t work out at least I can blame you = joking = dying is easy comedy is hard , you will need a whiskey just to get through this message, take care kind soul.
So was the original walls hacked off first and would it have been two coats of caulk ?
And then when you skim can you go straight on with the skim or would it need priming first?
No need to hack off unless existing plaster is shot / penetrating damp etc.
Remove mould from surface, prime, apply X2 layers of cork then skim straight over once it's fully cured no primers needed 👍
If the wall was back to brick would you then do thicker coats, more coats, or same depth@@SDRobertsPlastering?
@@blairkingsley6440 The product is designed to build up in 2 layers although I have done 3 before this process would take days and a better option would be to install a 22mm thermaline or if breathability is required you could use a breathable backing plaster first (Adaptavate / limelite ) then apply the cork layers then skim 👍
I hope this answers your question
Idea of cost would be great. Cheers
Hi thanks for watching, we cover the whole of Warwickshire if you could please complete our customer job form using the link below please include approx dimensions and a photo upload or short video showing the room we can get a cost estimate sent to you
form.123formbuilder.com/2387712/contact-lead-form
Thank you
Stuart
SD Roberts Plastering & Wall insulation
How heavy is this product? Could it be used on ceilings?
I'm interested if it can be used on ceilings also ?
Loft & underfloor voids confuse me, instinct tells me that underfloor voids should be filled with spray foam insulation to fill the void, stop the movement of air & make the area warmer, is this correct?
The floor timbers must be ventilated voids should be left clear 👍
It is possible to spray the underside of the floor boards with foam but you need to keep the void properly ventilated
@@hughmarcus1 I suppose you could do.
A 10mm XPS panel overlaid before the underlay / wood floor goes down would be very simple to do also
@@SDRobertsPlastering it would. But the problem with rigid board insulation is air movement around it. You’d need to properly seal between the boards & around the edges, probably with expanding foam, which is very messy.
The advantage of sprayed foam is that it fills all the gaps & addresses one of the biggest issues with suspended timber floors - air leakage.
Not to be a KNOW it all. But you need to get under that Floor and find out where all the moisture is wicking up from. and if you can't, Install an air exchanger system.
Well you answered why lime wasn’t working!
Was covered with gypsum 😂😂
Wouldn’t painting the walls close up the breathable cork?
If using a breathable system you'd need a breathable skim coat of plaster and breathable paint 👍
Where you based?
Will you be frying in sumner with this
It's cork based so no 👍
Can see issues with this big time. You have closed off all the natural internal air flows, the spot mold wasn’t from the leaky air from the skirting, if anything that would be helping stop the mold. It really will depend on the occupants and what they are doing to create the moisture within the house. Air flow is really crucial and what I can see there is you have cut that off.
Which natural internal airflows have I cut off friend?
The imaginary one lol. The guy diddnt watch this video properly and talking nonsense @@SDRobertsPlastering
Uncontrolled air flow is not your friend. You did well to point this out and inform that this contributes to lowering the internal surface temperature.