Your video was terrific. It’s amazing that you will tackle virtually any problem whether it’s electronic, electric, mechanical, and more, with great results. I can’t imagine how many hours you spend just learning, before you try fixing stuff.
They generally don't want grease on those parts because it with fling off and onto the belt, sheaves, etc. The noise is coming from the buttons on the spider. They wear and allow the spider to move ahead and back in the sheave (towers) depending on what stroke the engine is on.
There is no need to remove the exhaust to get the secondary off . It comes off easy with plenty of room. It is a bear getting the clutch pushed in to get the bolt back in though . All doable with a pry bar and patience.
My secondary has the stud and nut update from the dealer. It’s not a bolt. I didn’t want to remove the stud from the transmission because I didn’t have a replacement. So with that long stud I couldn’t pull it off without it hitting the exhaust. Thanks for watching!!
Great vid, hope the position of the top 2 pieces doesnt matter for indexing as I didnt mark em lol. Glad yours doesn't break that often, mine never fails to fail, its an absolute lemon.
Oh no. Sorry you got a lemon. I have had very little issues with mine. It’s only left me stranded once with a fan problem. Marking the two pieces is to maintain the factory balance. I do it for pierce of mind. It may not be necessary for all of them. Hope it helped.
ive got 2 can am fourwheelers and they are both the most unsmooth things to drive. works great if you just floor them, but sometimes you dont wanna go fast....and they are bad jerky while going under 15mph. seems that is just the nature of cvt's
Wouldn't adding those washers, unbalance the clutch at higher speed. You are adding weight to only some of the bolts and at high speed, once become pounds. Did you notice any vibration at high speed.
Well logically I can’t dispute the fact that you are100% correct that adding weight, however tiny the washers are, would cause it to be out of balance. I did however end up adding washers to all of them so I have not noticed any vibration but it sure is a lot quieter lol. Great feedback! Thanks for watching.
I have a 2022 450 Outlander and took it in some mucky mud at that time the RPMs were HIGH just going 10mph so I parked it. well the CVT was filled with mud, so I cleaned it out and Clutch, deep clean. but the when I put it in gear it grinds then wants to go by its self.. So ok I bought a new clutch and one way baring thinking it was that. Nope.. any ideas? No mud or water got into air filter whatsoever. I still have factory warranty but I know clutches are not covered so I fixed that first. I do not rip up my toy this is the FIRST time i got in mud water over the CVT case ever.
I have no idea if you replaced the primary clutch. Did you check the gear case oil and did you replace the belt? The belt is more than likely smoked if you ran it with water.
@NorthernHomeGarage primary clutch and one way and belt brand new. Have not checked rear diff yet reason why cause it should not move without power. I was thinking throttle body. Could have grim stuck in it and keeping throttle open just a hair.
Mines a bit jerky at take off as well if I feather the throttle. It’s always done that since I’ve bought it. I really don’t know if that is a normal condition or not. I was thinking my belt might have a worn spot but I don’t see anything wrong with my belt.
No, not at all. If I’m in sport mode at 60kph and punch it the machine will break loose. I have hit over 100kph with mine. I have two keys. A gray one and a black one. The black key is the regular key and the gray one is the learners key that limits the top speed to 60kph. Do you have two keys?
@@NorthernHomeGarage changed it. I had it to dealer they said normal. But I had a extended warranty and I think they won’t work on it because it’s not under that warranty and they don’t want to deal with it. I was wondering what clutch has most wear and which needs fixing, I just never got into clutch’s, but I’ll say frig it and buy the tools, good tools good job, I also thought there was more to them than thst.
The primary is responsible for the first smooth belt engagement. I would start with maintenance on that one. It’s not difficult. Damn if I can do it , anyone can certainly do it :).
At 16 minutes, you start at the rollers. My defender, has 6 as well, each has a flat spot about 1/8” or less, exactly the same on each 9ne. It looks maybe right but why such a small flat spot. If not supposed to be there why on everyone, and how would that happen. It’s a used machine, heat? Did previous owner drive it too fast? Or I drive on a long gravel road but nit fast as it’s full of pot holes, so I am not at a constant speed, ideas? Oh, I laugh because I’m a lube everything kinda guy, my rollers, have a squeak to them, so I didn’t but boy I wanted to, put some lube on the rollers.
You don't need the spring pins on the primary clutch bearings, it enables engine braking at low rpm. The primary clutch is poorly designed and the shims/washers you installed are a temporary fix. These machines are garbage. Designed to be disposable. Frustrating i know, sell the machine and never buy another. Complete clutch kit and associated other bits are thousands in labour and parts.
I don't understand why they are so expensive for clutch parts. I really do love the machine. It's comfortable and drives amazing on long trips. Do you know of any clutch kits that will stop the rattling noise? Everyone tells me it's normal for these machines but I always feel like something is going to come apart and leave me stranded. Thanks!
@@NorthernHomeGarage every bolt in the primary clutch needs a small amount of play to keep from binding. The basket is aluminum, so you can imagine the holes on the basket eventually oval out, and the steel ramps will wear the retention bolt shaft in turn. If the outer plate had bushings it would be serviceable. The kit is $1600 cdn and eventually same problem will come up. Pretty sure the high cost is because of domestic production. China copied this cvt system but used plastic helix and primary clutch sliders 🤣🤣 good luck in future endeavors 👍
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Your video was terrific. It’s amazing that you will tackle virtually any problem whether it’s electronic, electric, mechanical, and more, with great results. I can’t imagine how many hours you spend just learning, before you try fixing stuff.
just a thought here but if you torque with your wrench 180 deg so your lifting then there would be no stain on bearing/moor mounts
They generally don't want grease on those parts because it with fling off and onto the belt, sheaves, etc. The noise is coming from the buttons on the spider. They wear and allow the spider to move ahead and back in the sheave (towers) depending on what stroke the engine is on.
Thanks for the great info!
There is no need to remove the exhaust to get the secondary off . It comes off easy with plenty of room. It is a bear getting the clutch pushed in to get the bolt back in though . All doable with a pry bar and patience.
My secondary has the stud and nut update from the dealer. It’s not a bolt. I didn’t want to remove the stud from the transmission because I didn’t have a replacement. So with that long stud I couldn’t pull it off without it hitting the exhaust. Thanks for watching!!
Great vid, hope the position of the top 2 pieces doesnt matter for indexing as I didnt mark em lol.
Glad yours doesn't break that often, mine never fails to fail, its an absolute lemon.
Oh no. Sorry you got a lemon. I have had very little issues with mine. It’s only left me stranded once with a fan problem. Marking the two pieces is to maintain the factory balance. I do it for pierce of mind. It may not be necessary for all of them. Hope it helped.
It sounds like it is supposed to I promise you that. The one way bearings if aftermarket are sealed on both sides so no greasing needed. Great video!
Thanks. So far so good!
ive got 2 can am fourwheelers and they are both the most unsmooth things to drive. works great if you just floor them, but sometimes you dont wanna go fast....and they are bad jerky while going under 15mph. seems that is just the nature of cvt's
Really? I’m starting to get a real picture from everyone that what I have might just be normal. Thanks for watching.
My secondary has the same stud as yours from factory , had to take the exhaust of to remove .
It was a pain in the butt. Thanks for watching.
You may have over torqued the bolt , the bolt continued to rotate after the torque wrench clicked
Ratchet to hold primary clutch was a great idea .
Ratchet straps and duct tape, man’s best friend :).
Great video. I used your ratchet strap trick and it was so helpful. Thank you.
Wouldn't adding those washers, unbalance the clutch at higher speed. You are adding weight to only some of the bolts and at high speed, once become pounds. Did you notice any vibration at high speed.
Well logically I can’t dispute the fact that you are100% correct that adding weight, however tiny the washers are, would cause it to be out of balance. I did however end up adding washers to all of them so I have not noticed any vibration but it sure is a lot quieter lol. Great feedback! Thanks for watching.
Those tiny washers don't add enough weight to affect balance. I build custom engines. Stop worrying so much lol
Awesome information!
Helped me out a ton!
New subr
Thanks for the sub!
Saya mau tanya. Utv can am 1000 maverick. Di busi tidak ada pengapiannya. Koil dan busi baru. Itu kendalanya di mana? Terima kasih.
I have a 2022 450 Outlander and took it in some mucky mud at that time the RPMs were HIGH just going 10mph so I parked it. well the CVT was filled with mud, so I cleaned it out and Clutch, deep clean. but the when I put it in gear it grinds then wants to go by its self.. So ok I bought a new clutch and one way baring thinking it was that. Nope.. any ideas? No mud or water got into air filter whatsoever. I still have factory warranty but I know clutches are not covered so I fixed that first. I do not rip up my toy this is the FIRST time i got in mud water over the CVT case ever.
I have no idea if you replaced the primary clutch. Did you check the gear case oil and did you replace the belt? The belt is more than likely smoked if you ran it with water.
@NorthernHomeGarage primary clutch and one way and belt brand new. Have not checked rear diff yet reason why cause it should not move without power. I was thinking throttle body. Could have grim stuck in it and keeping throttle open just a hair.
Buen video,que pasa si no trae esos resortes que solo tenía uno en su clutch primario? saludos desde México
If the springs are missing, the buttons won’t push out to lock the clutch for engine braking on hill decent. Thanks for watching from Mexico!!!
@@NorthernHomeGarage ok, thanks mi friend,
While you had it apart new one way?
My commander is jerky w/ take off sometimes.
Sometimes i can apply throttle careful for smooth take off
Mines a bit jerky at take off as well if I feather the throttle. It’s always done that since I’ve bought it. I really don’t know if that is a normal condition or not. I was thinking my belt might have a worn spot but I don’t see anything wrong with my belt.
I believe this is from your secondary clutch spring, replace the spring it should go away
@@travishollobaugh1419 if it might get rid of my jerking I’ll try it. Thanks for the tip.
you were worry about balance, but you add a washer on one side,,,,lol
Ha ha. You’re absolutely correct. Good catch
CVTECH POWER BLOC zero noise...
Is that a primary clutch brand? This clutch is soooo noisy !
I have 2012 commander xt 800 and I feel that it’s very underpowered, 62 km or 40 mile per hour is the top end..is this normal for this machine..thks
No, not at all. If I’m in sport mode at 60kph and punch it the machine will break loose. I have hit over 100kph with mine. I have two keys. A gray one and a black one. The black key is the regular key and the gray one is the learners key that limits the top speed to 60kph. Do you have two keys?
Great video, what size bolt?
Thanks! The bolt is 12mm by 1.75 if I remember and the socket size was 19mm…..I think…This was over a month ago lol.
did you consider replacing the one way bearing ?
I should have probably replaced it. I only thought about it after I had it all apart. Thanks for watching.
My defender 2019, HD8, chatters when I take off slowly, dealers says it’s normal, I say BULLSHIT. How do yiu know if it’s the primary or secondary.
Did you try a new belt? I have another video where I changed the belt and it stopped the chatter/buck I had on low rpm take offs.
@@NorthernHomeGarage changed it. I had it to dealer they said normal. But I had a extended warranty and I think they won’t work on it because it’s not under that warranty and they don’t want to deal with it. I was wondering what clutch has most wear and which needs fixing, I just never got into clutch’s, but I’ll say frig it and buy the tools, good tools good job, I also thought there was more to them than thst.
The primary is responsible for the first smooth belt engagement. I would start with maintenance on that one. It’s not difficult. Damn if I can do it , anyone can certainly do it :).
At 16 minutes, you start at the rollers. My defender, has 6 as well, each has a flat spot about 1/8” or less, exactly the same on each 9ne. It looks maybe right but why such a small flat spot. If not supposed to be there why on everyone, and how would that happen. It’s a used machine, heat? Did previous owner drive it too fast? Or I drive on a long gravel road but nit fast as it’s full of pot holes, so I am not at a constant speed, ideas? Oh, I laugh because I’m a lube everything kinda guy, my rollers, have a squeak to them, so I didn’t but boy I wanted to, put some lube on the rollers.
You don't need the spring pins on the primary clutch bearings, it enables engine braking at low rpm. The primary clutch is poorly designed and the shims/washers you installed are a temporary fix. These machines are garbage. Designed to be disposable. Frustrating i know, sell the machine and never buy another. Complete clutch kit and associated other bits are thousands in labour and parts.
I don't understand why they are so expensive for clutch parts. I really do love the machine. It's comfortable and drives amazing on long trips. Do you know of any clutch kits that will stop the rattling noise? Everyone tells me it's normal for these machines but I always feel like something is going to come apart and leave me stranded. Thanks!
@@NorthernHomeGarage every bolt in the primary clutch needs a small amount of play to keep from binding. The basket is aluminum, so you can imagine the holes on the basket eventually oval out, and the steel ramps will wear the retention bolt shaft in turn. If the outer plate had bushings it would be serviceable. The kit is $1600 cdn and eventually same problem will come up. Pretty sure the high cost is because of domestic production. China copied this cvt system but used plastic helix and primary clutch sliders 🤣🤣 good luck in future endeavors 👍