This is just what I needed! I shorted out the 30 and 50 terminals with a screwdriver just as you did and it engaged my starter and solenoid. Then I tried again with the ignfition and it worked whereas it wasn't before (must have been stuck and just needed the jump start). Thanks for the help!
If the brushes in the armeter was stuck, than yes. I'm glad this helped you out. Sorry it took so long to respond. My issue was a bad selonoid. I replaced my started with a autostick starter. Faster spin, and don't have to deal with the bushing in the transmission. Stay safe, thanks for commenting.
The device you hear clicking when you turn on the key is called a Fuel Idle Shutoff Valve (or solenoid). It’s job is to shut off the fuel when you turn off the key to keep the engine from running on (some times called dieseling) after you shut it off. As for the starter issue, I’d begin by cleaning and tightening the battery terminals, and removing and taking a wire wheel to the ground strap connections. Do the same for the connections at the starter. If that doesn’t resolve the problem, then pulling the starter and having it tested would be a good next step.
i would say its the selonoid. its not engaging the starter. Try tapping the starter and selonoid with a hammer. This should correct the problem. You got this. You got this far.
@@anotherone1173 look up hard start relay. If a new starter doesn't fix it and your ignition switch if good your having voltage/amperage drop and the hard start relay trick tends to fix that issue
Once you get the starting issue sorted out, here are my notes (based on Mustie1’s videos) on testing the generator/battery charging system. My apologies for the length. Generator Troubleshooting D+ is a switched circuit that feeds the battery. DF is the “Field” terminal. The regulator feeds the signal to this terminal, and the closer it is to ground the more it tells the generator to put out. To test the generator... 1. Disconnect the wires from both terminals. (Note: the larger of the two wires that connects to D+ will have voltage on it when you turn on the key or run the engine, so don’t let it touch any ground when disconnected.) 2. Use a jumper wire to ground DF to the case of the generator. 3. Connect a VOM to Ground and D+. Start the engine and measure the output of D+. 4. Rev the engine to approx. 3000rpm and you should see about 35v or greater. (Note: at idle you should see approx 23v.) To recap, with the wires disconnected from the generator, and the engine running, you should measure less than 1v at D+ when DF is disconnected, and when you ground DF you should see a min of 20v or so at D+ when the engine is at idle, and 35v min at 3000rpm. It will go as high as 70 or 80v at higher rpms. (Note: The Gen warning light on the dash is part of the charging system...if this lamp burns out the charging system will not work.). one potential cause of loss of generator output is a loss of residual magnetism within the generator. To restore this (repolarize the generator): Remove the fan belt. Remove the wires from D+ and DF. Use a jumper to ground out DF. Apply 12v directly to D+ for a hot second, which should cause the generator to spin clockwise like a motor. If it spins, you just repolarized it. Rerun the test above to see if the generator output has been restored. If not, the next most likely cause is a faulty Voltage regulator. (Note: there are two types of voltage regulators - One for Buses and one for Beetles. Beetle regulators will only work on Beetles. Bus voltage regulators will work on Buses AND Beetles.) You can also test your charging system by connecting a VOM directly to the battery - Measure the voltage of the battery with the car off (say 12.8v). Then start the car - at idle the battery voltage should be pretty much the same, say 12.8v, but it should jump up to 13.8v or so when you rev the engine (anywhere between say 13.5 and 14.5...a volt or two above the voltage of the battery itself is enough to keep the battery charging. th-cam.com/video/JUeeuDrIKVQ/w-d-xo.html
No need to apologize. This is great comment. I hope others read it and it helps them in the future. Mustie 1 is a great channel as well. Thank you for viewing and commenting. Please feel free to comment in the future.
Are you on Facebook? We have a very active VW GROUP PAGE as well. Its called " Volkswagenplanet". The same as TH-cam and all other social media. Love to have you in the group.
I probably should have clarified...the Generator test instructions come pretty much directly from the Mustie1 video I linked at the end. I give full credit to Mustie1.
i have a similar problem but the starter and solenoid are working. So is it the ignition switch? All the lights come on but the when i turn the key nothing happens.
Yes and no. Let me explain. It will be the ignition issue. What happens over time the wire going from starter to ignition switch can't carry enough of the amperage load. Try installing a hard start relay first. This will solve most if your electrical issues. It's a simple install. Relay and wire. This will solve the electrical load when starting. Then replace ignition switch. I think i install the hard start relay in all my classic be a first. Before even a oil change. The wires are old or chopped and taped together over the past owners. I think I have a video on it. It's cheap and easy. If you need help feel free to reach out. Thanks for viewing and commenting. Stay safe out there.
Thank you will try my baby daddy helped me awhile ago and disconnected that relay jingadera thingy and was talking shit about who ever installed it haha then it still didn't start so he got mad and left it like that and he hasn't came back since, thank u I'm going to try to hook it back up now and see if it works .and you also recommended replacing the ignition as well, correct?
You have power.the large cable is the positive from battery the small wire is from the ignition switch .the negative is provided through the bolt up to the engine and ground connection to battery .it is an interesting reach to the starter .you can reach in with a long stick with something metallic from outside the wheel well .keeps you out if the mouth of the dragon if it happens to be in gear
You are correct. This is a unique set up. Thank you for commenting. Your comment will help others out. Thank you for commenting. Feel free to comment on other videos. I'm learning as I go on this project. Stay safe.
Try installing hard start relay. Usually its a voltage drop the wires can't hold when they get old and brittle. Sorry it took so long to respond. It seemed to be fine now.
Sir, So I’ve got a similar issue. Car was running one moment the the next nada. I’ve been going through my wiring and fixing small connectors that were a lil suspect. Long story short my troubleshooting has led me to the starter. When I tried your method of “bench” testing, I don’t get a spark when I jump the wires. I’d assume I have a bad starter? I have power going from the battery to the starter, but like I said no spark.
I do not get the click mouse, but I did test the wire to the coil which was getting voltage. I will have try the jump start on the starter like you did.
Take the starter out and bring it to your local auto part store. They have machines to test the starter and selnoid. Let me know if you need further help. Stay safe
Number one thing that thick cable hooked to your starter better be the positive side of the battery or you have major problems. You said it was the negative side of the battery.
I think it need resistor to reduce current going to solenoids. It will burn fast if it’s 12volts all the way. Ignition coil will too go hot especially those with oil and lick to those hot wires.
I just install Gilmore a/c on my 67 beetle and all of a sudden I have starting issues. I have tightened all bolts.. I have not tapped on the solenoid yet... I get spark between bolts... My car only starts when I put it in 3rd gear roll it back a foot or or two and hit the key.. not sure where to go from hear? A start relay? Idk.... I am bummed for the day.
Yes, install a starter relay. What happens over the years the wires can't hold the voltage load. Hence the starter not engaging. Let me know if that helps
I don't have any info on the A/C. I don't think it would have any effect on the problem. The A/C needs to be off when starting though. Need as much amperage to the starter. A/C units take energy.
@@Volkswagenplanet yeah I disconnected my AC wiring and still have the same issue. I get the starter to engage when I touch the starter terminals with a screwdriver. I need to check my ignition switch today but Which hard start relay did you use? Do you have a link or did you just pick up a universal? Did you make a video of that install?
@@jeremiahlord6094 yes I did do a hard start relay install. The video is talks about more starting problems. Look under 1972 super beetle budget build. Part 17 or 18. Sorry I don't know how to make a link. There are several videos out there on the topic. My video goes slow so you can keep up. I have found the others to go fast because they are not putting themselves in your position.
I have a 76 VW Beetle and I think I’m having a similar problem. Unfortunately, no mechanic in my town works on my make and model of car so I have to fix it. I replaced the starter solenoid last summer, (it’s currently the next summer) and I was wondering how fast solenoids go out or if I have another underlying problem.
Good afternoon. My son has a 1972 super beetle. Everything in your video we have done. He has t start the car with a screwdriver. He changed out the cylinoid. We also did the test where you twist the screwdriver in the cylinoid and the car wouldn’t start. The screwdriver is the only way we can start the car. Do you have any recommendations?
Have you done a hard start relay? There are several videos on TH-cam. I might have one as well, not sure. The reason you would need a hard start relay is the old wire can't hold enough amperage to carry to the starter. Its a simple fix. Let me know it this helps. Thank you for watching and commenting. Happy Holidays
Do you think the starter pinion is engaging the ring gear? You should hear a loud click, if it does. First thought would be a bad ring gear. The teeth on the ring gear get worn down on one area. Rotate the engine a little and try again.
Check to see that the black wire in your wiring bundle is connected to the coil (15 +). Also look under backseat to make sure wires are not disconnected- like the red one to the starter With trans in neutral and brake set you should be fine to use a screwdriver to test the starter.
The black wire your talking about is the ignition switvh to coiil wire correct. That is correct. I can turn the key and hear the click of the plunger on the carb. Car is in neutral. Brake is set. I was starting the car without pressing the clutch in until this point. The only difference from sat to today is the car was on ramps. Motor did not lock up. Starter is not engaging. Let me know if I'm understanding you correctly.
Check the obvious- wiring connections. Follow the wire connections from ignition to starter. Friend had a 70 bug with a similar situation- remedy was the T1 connection under rear seat was disconnected (it connects starter 50 red wire to red/black wire to ignition switch) If not this -agree with others likely the solenoid
What is your voltage at the large stud at the starter? 12V? Should do a voltage drop test. Could be something as simple as a poor connection at the battery or a poor ground strap.
I'm sorry for not responding earlier. My starter had a bad selonoid. I replaced the starter with a autostick unit. I have a follow up video. Thank you for reaching out. I try and answer all my comments. Are you working on a vw?
You are correct. This is what happens with lack of sleep and complete frustration. Thanks for pointing it out. Thanks again. I don't know why I never received your comment. I would have responded at that time. Thank you again.
smacking with a hammer ONLY works when someone is turning the key.... AAA came to help me start my 78 bus, guy was a GM guy I told him where the starter was, he smacked it and nothing, I got in turned the key, he smacked it and I never shut it off until I got to my destination....
Good point about turning the key. I never thought about verbally saying that. Hope your comment it read and helps out somebody in the future. Thank you for the view and commenting. Maybe one day I will get back doing videos again. Stay safe.
The starter on a air-cooled VW is located on the right side of the car. Close to the right rear tire. I'm not sure if you.ever worked on a VW or am I misunderstanding your response.
Was it the starter that was causing this trouble? I just bought a 1303S 5 days ago, it started soooo smooth the first day and now the only thing I hear is a "click-clack" noise. Battery measures 12.8V when it's not running, alternator still looks in a very good condition. Such a bummer, really wanna drive my new love :( !!
Install hard start relay. I think I have a video on my channel. If not several others videos on it. This is a must for all VWs. Let me know your outcome.
Im in that same boat replaced all spark andspark plug wires new coil new distributor(empi ones dont last) is replaced. Car is newly rewired. Turn the key you hear a click noise grom engin bay. Tried too bypass the starter didnt turn. Pulled out felt like it was stuck did a few tests didnt want too turn. Have too replace starter
When you pull the starter out, check and see if its a OEM( original ) Bosch stamped starter. If it is have it bench tested. Probally the selnoid. Mine was bad. I still replaced my starter from Napa. I paid the extra because I kept the core. If you do buy another starter here is some advise. Tell the counter rep its for a autostick instead of a manual. The autostick starter doesn't need the busing on the end of the armature. Some get wore out and have to be beaten out of the transmission case. The autostick starter also will engage faster. It's the same price as the manual. Let me know if that solved your problem. If your on Facebook, come join our VW GROUP PAGE. Same name as youtube" Volkswagenplanet. Several youtubers are in the group. Take care my friend.
One other thing check your battery Terminal for corrosion it could limit the amps going to your starter you might not be drawing enough amps to turn the starter
when you touch the screwdriver to the small wire to the big wire from the battery it should fire off the starter solenoid and engage the starter motor. as if the solenoid is bad it can be replaced. a good reliable starter to get is the powermaster starter sold on Summit Racing Equipment its a more reliable gear reduction starter. the clicking noise not the acellerator pump thats the bypass air cutoff solenoid on the carburetor as you have an aftermarket H30/31 pict carb originally susposed to be a Solex 34 Pict-3 carb will have the same type solenoid as older bug carburetors from 1967-1970 will have the solenoid below the choke element thats on the pilot jet as both solenoids do is prevent the engine from dieseling when the ignition is turned off. the older 6 volt bugs up to 1966 had no solenoid.
You are correct. The problem was a bad starter. Power going in to the starter, but nothing going out. Failed the hench test. Thank you for viewing and commenting. You will never know how many people your comment will help in the future. Lots of people read the comments for additional info. Please feel free to always comment on my videos. I'm always open to a helping hand. Anything to help out others as well. Are you on Facebook? Check out Volkswagenplanet VW group.page as well. What year and model is your VW? Thank you again, stay safe
You are correct. Thanks for reaching out. Your comments will.help out more than you will.ever realize. Feel free to comment on any of my videos. Take care, stay safe.
It failed the bench test. Selnoid was faulty. I put a autostick starter in it. They spin faster than the manual starters. You are correct about the voltage on the battery was low. Had a hard time holding a charge.
You sir are correct about the autostick starter I have one in my bug also and using a starter like that you don't have to worry about the bussing @@Volkswagenplanet
@@Volkswagenplanet Yes Sir I Have A 73 vw super beetle , The prob I'm having right now is you Now the Test light test? I'm sure you do..... Well my test light stays on all the time I already replaced everything but the body of you Distributor , any hints? As far as yours My Friend how about the starter relay? Or if you don't have one try one the Hard Start Kit
@@juanmanuelcortez1098 not sure about that. I did install a hard start relay around the same time as well. Hopefully I can get back to the beetle soon. I had to put it on hold for the last month.
@@juanmanuelcortez1098 I have no idea where you could be pulling power. I was going to mention to you I also have a VW GROUP page on Facebook as well. Very active members. I'm sure they could answer any question that pops up. It's called " Volkswagenplanet" as well. Hope to see you there. Check out my friends TH-cam channel " Slades Beetle" . He has a 73 Super Beetle. He has gone through every wire on his car as well. It's a well established channel now. He is a great guy. He is also a moderator on my Facebook page as well.
You are correct. Thanks for commenting. You will never know how many people read the comments. Your info will help others. Feel free to comment on any of my videos. I hope to get back in the garage soon. Stay safe.
I'm having the exact same issue on my '68, bought a brand new starter and still same thing. tested 9 volts at the starter. I haven't figured it out yet.
That was another issue as well. This was the starter. This has been a journey. Thank you for commenting. If your on Facebook, check out our VW GROUP PAGE as well. Quite a few fellow youttuber on there. Almost 1600 active members. Same name as the TH-cam channel" Volkswagenplanet". Take care, have a Happy Thanksgiving.
I may have switched the wires. I had that starter in and out so many times. I replaced it with other starters I had as well. The starter end up failing on the bench test. Bad solenoid. I also installed a hard relay switch. Hope others read your comment. Thanks for commenting and pointing it out.
![30 ชั่วโมงคนเดียว บนรถไฟชั้น 3 โซเวียต [Around The World Ep. 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MlE9boAVqDA/mqdefault.jpg)
I can't believe we got this far, then this. I think its the starter. Let me know what you think. Comment below.
This is just what I needed! I shorted out the 30 and 50 terminals with a screwdriver just as you did and it engaged my starter and solenoid. Then I tried again with the ignfition and it worked whereas it wasn't before (must have been stuck and just needed the jump start). Thanks for the help!
If the brushes in the armeter was stuck, than yes. I'm glad this helped you out. Sorry it took so long to respond. My issue was a bad selonoid. I replaced my started with a autostick starter. Faster spin, and don't have to deal with the bushing in the transmission. Stay safe, thanks for commenting.
The device you hear clicking when you turn on the key is called a Fuel Idle Shutoff Valve (or solenoid). It’s job is to shut off the fuel when you turn off the key to keep the engine from running on (some times called dieseling) after you shut it off. As for the starter issue, I’d begin by cleaning and tightening the battery terminals, and removing and taking a wire wheel to the ground strap connections. Do the same for the connections at the starter. If that doesn’t resolve the problem, then pulling the starter and having it tested would be a good next step.
Great advise. Sorry I didn't see your post till I answered another comment.
i would say its the selonoid. its not engaging the starter. Try tapping the starter and selonoid with a hammer. This should correct the problem. You got this. You got this far.
At least everyone seems to agree with each other on the issue. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Stay tuned. - KEEP DUBBING -
I've replaced the starter and the solenoid in my 72 wv bus and I still have the issue going on so if anyone knows
@@anotherone1173 look up hard start relay. If a new starter doesn't fix it and your ignition switch if good your having voltage/amperage drop and the hard start relay trick tends to fix that issue
thank you so much for this hint! I had the same problem with a stuck starter today and tried your advise. It worked immediately !!❤
Once you get the starting issue sorted out, here are my notes (based on Mustie1’s videos) on testing the generator/battery charging system. My apologies for the length.
Generator Troubleshooting
D+ is a switched circuit that feeds the battery.
DF is the “Field” terminal. The regulator feeds the signal to this terminal, and the closer it is to ground the more it tells the generator to put out. To test the generator...
1. Disconnect the wires from both terminals. (Note: the larger of the two wires that connects to D+ will have voltage on it when you turn on the key or run the engine, so don’t let it touch any ground when disconnected.)
2. Use a jumper wire to ground DF to the case of the generator.
3. Connect a VOM to Ground and D+.
Start the engine and measure the output of D+.
4. Rev the engine to approx. 3000rpm and you should see about 35v or greater. (Note: at idle you should see approx 23v.)
To recap, with the wires disconnected from the generator, and the engine running, you should
measure less than 1v at D+ when DF is disconnected, and when you ground DF you should see a min of 20v or so at D+ when the engine is at idle, and 35v min at 3000rpm. It will go as high as 70 or 80v at higher rpms. (Note: The Gen warning light on the dash is part of the charging system...if this lamp burns out the charging system will not work.). one potential cause of loss of generator output is a loss of residual magnetism within the generator. To restore this (repolarize the generator): Remove the fan belt. Remove
the wires from D+ and DF. Use a jumper
to ground out DF. Apply 12v directly to D+ for a hot second, which should cause the generator to spin clockwise like a motor. If it spins, you just repolarized it. Rerun the test above to see if the generator output has been restored. If not, the next most likely cause is a faulty Voltage regulator. (Note: there are two types of voltage regulators - One for Buses and one for Beetles. Beetle regulators will only work on Beetles. Bus voltage regulators will work on Buses AND Beetles.) You can also test your charging system by connecting a VOM directly to the battery - Measure the voltage of the battery with the car off (say 12.8v). Then start the car - at idle the battery voltage should be pretty much the same, say 12.8v, but it should jump up to 13.8v or so when you rev the engine (anywhere between say 13.5 and 14.5...a volt or two above the voltage of the battery itself is enough to keep the battery charging. th-cam.com/video/JUeeuDrIKVQ/w-d-xo.html
No need to apologize. This is great comment. I hope others read it and it helps them in the future. Mustie 1 is a great channel as well. Thank you for viewing and commenting. Please feel free to comment in the future.
Are you on Facebook? We have a very active VW GROUP PAGE as well. Its called " Volkswagenplanet". The same as TH-cam and all other social media. Love to have you in the group.
I probably should have clarified...the Generator test instructions come pretty much directly from the Mustie1 video I linked at the end. I give full credit to Mustie1.
Did u try putting a relay in and did u try starting it by arching the starter while the key is on
Welcome to the VW community.
Joined the community since 91. Thanks for reaching out
i have a similar problem but the starter and solenoid are working. So is it the ignition switch? All the lights come on but the when i turn the key nothing happens.
Yes and no. Let me explain. It will be the ignition issue. What happens over time the wire going from starter to ignition switch can't carry enough of the amperage load. Try installing a hard start relay first. This will solve most if your electrical issues. It's a simple install. Relay and wire. This will solve the electrical load when starting. Then replace ignition switch. I think i install the hard start relay in all my classic be a first. Before even a oil change. The wires are old or chopped and taped together over the past owners. I think I have a video on it. It's cheap and easy. If you need help feel free to reach out. Thanks for viewing and commenting. Stay safe out there.
Same here
Thank you will try my baby daddy helped me awhile ago and disconnected that relay jingadera thingy and was talking shit about who ever installed it haha then it still didn't start so he got mad and left it like that and he hasn't came back since, thank u I'm going to try to hook it back up now and see if it works .and you also recommended replacing the ignition as well, correct?
You have power.the large cable is the positive from battery the small wire is from the ignition switch .the negative is provided through the bolt up to the engine and ground connection to battery .it is an interesting reach to the starter .you can reach in with a long stick with something metallic from outside the wheel well .keeps you out if the mouth of the dragon if it happens to be in gear
You are correct. This is a unique set up. Thank you for commenting. Your comment will help others out. Thank you for commenting. Feel free to comment on other videos. I'm learning as I go on this project. Stay safe.
That was interesting. I am going to work on one tomorrow. Thanks for the advice
Glad it helped. If you have any questions, send them my way. I try to answer as fast as possible. Take care, stay safe out there.
@@Volkswagenplanet I will send you a link of the video I make
@@jerrytracy5165 sounds good. I just subscribed to your channel.
@@Volkswagenplanet my real channel is geek and son
@@jerrytracy5165 just subscribed to this channel also
Did you get it fixed im having the same problem the motor ran yesterday and today it would not star i do here the clicking noise coming from behind
Try installing hard start relay. Usually its a voltage drop the wires can't hold when they get old and brittle. Sorry it took so long to respond. It seemed to be fine now.
Sir,
So I’ve got a similar issue. Car was running one moment the the next nada. I’ve been going through my wiring and fixing small connectors that were a lil suspect. Long story short my troubleshooting has led me to the starter. When I tried your method of “bench” testing, I don’t get a spark when I jump the wires. I’d assume I have a bad starter?
I have power going from the battery to the starter, but like I said no spark.
Correct. Starter solenoid
I do not get the click mouse, but I did test the wire to the coil which was getting voltage. I will have try the jump start on the starter like you did.
Take the starter out and bring it to your local auto part store. They have machines to test the starter and selnoid. Let me know if you need further help. Stay safe
Number one thing that thick cable hooked to your starter better be the positive side of the battery or you have major problems. You said it was the negative side of the battery.
You are correct. This thing was a huge mess. Last owner had chopped up wires. Thanks for commenting
You’re correct in your process. Bad starter.
Thanks ihave problem too ,
@@yilmaatrihun7194 glad the video helped. Take care my friend, stay safe.
I think it need resistor to reduce current going to solenoids. It will burn fast if it’s 12volts all the way. Ignition coil will too go hot especially those with oil and lick to those hot wires.
The solenoid was bad on my starter. It failed the bench test. I replaced it with a autostick starter. They spin faster than a manual starter.
Could you hear any noise when you were shorting the solenoid.
No noise at all. The bendix did not engage. Is this what you are reffering to? Thanks for the help.
Hello again 👍🐿
I just install Gilmore a/c on my 67 beetle and all of a sudden I have starting issues. I have tightened all bolts.. I have not tapped on the solenoid yet... I get spark between bolts... My car only starts when I put it in 3rd gear roll it back a foot or or two and hit the key.. not sure where to go from hear? A start relay? Idk.... I am bummed for the day.
Yes, install a starter relay. What happens over the years the wires can't hold the voltage load. Hence the starter not engaging. Let me know if that helps
I don't have any info on the A/C. I don't think it would have any effect on the problem. The A/C needs to be off when starting though. Need as much amperage to the starter. A/C units take energy.
@@Volkswagenplanet yeah I disconnected my AC wiring and still have the same issue. I get the starter to engage when I touch the starter terminals with a screwdriver. I need to check my ignition switch today but Which hard start relay did you use? Do you have a link or did you just pick up a universal? Did you make a video of that install?
@@jeremiahlord6094 yes I did do a hard start relay install. The video is talks about more starting problems. Look under 1972 super beetle budget build. Part 17 or 18. Sorry I don't know how to make a link. There are several videos out there on the topic. My video goes slow so you can keep up. I have found the others to go fast because they are not putting themselves in your position.
@@jeremiahlord6094 its not a lot. Its a simple automotive relay. That you tap in under the rear seat. Its simple
I have to agree with these guys, starter. Pull it out and have it bench tested
That would make sense to get it bench tested. It has to come out anyway. Thanks for commenting.
I have a 76 VW Beetle and I think I’m having a similar problem. Unfortunately, no mechanic in my town works on my make and model of car so I have to fix it. I replaced the starter solenoid last summer, (it’s currently the next summer) and I was wondering how fast solenoids go out or if I have another underlying problem.
Install a hard start relay. Several videos here on TH-cam. Its easy. The problem will go away
Good afternoon. My son has a 1972 super beetle. Everything in your video we have done. He has t start the car with a screwdriver. He changed out the cylinoid.
We also did the test where you twist the screwdriver in the cylinoid and the car wouldn’t start. The screwdriver is the only way we can start the car. Do you have any recommendations?
Have you done a hard start relay? There are several videos on TH-cam. I might have one as well, not sure. The reason you would need a hard start relay is the old wire can't hold enough amperage to carry to the starter. Its a simple fix. Let me know it this helps. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Happy Holidays
I had what I thought was starter issue. Replaced the starter. Spins but does not engage flywheel. Any help ?
Did you put the bushing on the shaft of the starter
Do you think the starter pinion is engaging the ring gear? You should hear a loud click, if it does. First thought would be a bad ring gear. The teeth on the ring gear get worn down on one area. Rotate the engine a little and try again.
Also. Your fly wheel could have missing teeth. Try turning the crank to align some teeth w starter. Good luck!
@@kianiani15 thank you for commenting. Always great to see everyone helping each other out.
Check to see that the black wire in your wiring bundle is connected to the coil (15 +). Also look under backseat to make sure wires are not disconnected- like the red one to the starter
With trans in neutral and brake set you should be fine to use a screwdriver to test the starter.
The black wire your talking about is the ignition switvh to coiil wire correct. That is correct. I can turn the key and hear the click of the plunger on the carb. Car is in neutral. Brake is set. I was starting the car without pressing the clutch in until this point. The only difference from sat to today is the car was on ramps. Motor did not lock up. Starter is not engaging. Let me know if I'm understanding you correctly.
Check the obvious- wiring connections. Follow the wire connections from ignition to starter. Friend had a 70 bug with a similar situation- remedy was the T1 connection under rear seat was disconnected (it connects starter 50 red wire to red/black wire to ignition switch)
If not this -agree with others likely the solenoid
@@kdmamm-4190 checking it as we speak
What is your voltage at the large stud at the starter? 12V? Should do a voltage drop test. Could be something as simple as a poor connection at the battery or a poor ground strap.
I'm sorry for not responding earlier. My starter had a bad selonoid. I replaced the starter with a autostick unit. I have a follow up video. Thank you for reaching out. I try and answer all my comments. Are you working on a vw?
So we're u able to figure out your ignition or starter problem
Selnoid. I put a autostick starter in. Problem solved.
Not an accelerator. The accelerator is the thing you push on next to the brake pedal. It's called a fuel solenoid.
You are correct. This is what happens with lack of sleep and complete frustration. Thanks for pointing it out. Thanks again. I don't know why I never received your comment. I would have responded at that time. Thank you again.
smacking with a hammer ONLY works when someone is turning the key.... AAA came to help me start my 78 bus, guy was a GM guy I told him where the starter was, he smacked it and nothing, I got in turned the key, he smacked it and I never shut it off until I got to my destination....
Good point about turning the key. I never thought about verbally saying that. Hope your comment it read and helps out somebody in the future. Thank you for the view and commenting. Maybe one day I will get back doing videos again. Stay safe.
You don't show where that part is located on the car!
The starter on a air-cooled VW is located on the right side of the car. Close to the right rear tire. I'm not sure if you.ever worked on a VW or am I misunderstanding your response.
Was it the starter that was causing this trouble? I just bought a 1303S 5 days ago, it started soooo smooth the first day and now the only thing I hear is a "click-clack" noise. Battery measures 12.8V when it's not running, alternator still looks in a very good condition. Such a bummer, really wanna drive my new love :( !!
Install hard start relay. I think I have a video on my channel. If not several others videos on it. This is a must for all VWs. Let me know your outcome.
Im in that same boat replaced all spark andspark plug wires new coil new distributor(empi ones dont last) is replaced. Car is newly rewired. Turn the key you hear a click noise grom engin bay. Tried too bypass the starter didnt turn. Pulled out felt like it was stuck did a few tests didnt want too turn. Have too replace starter
When you pull the starter out, check and see if its a OEM( original ) Bosch stamped starter. If it is have it bench tested. Probally the selnoid. Mine was bad. I still replaced my starter from Napa. I paid the extra because I kept the core. If you do buy another starter here is some advise. Tell the counter rep its for a autostick instead of a manual. The autostick starter doesn't need the busing on the end of the armature. Some get wore out and have to be beaten out of the transmission case. The autostick starter also will engage faster. It's the same price as the manual. Let me know if that solved your problem. If your on Facebook, come join our VW GROUP PAGE. Same name as youtube" Volkswagenplanet. Several youtubers are in the group. Take care my friend.
@@Volkswagenplanet where i live oem/nos bosch starters are super expensive and hard too find. Used a similliar built german/us made starters.
@@pierreduplessis1507 try installing a hard start relay first. I think I have a video on it. There are several in TH-cam
@@Volkswagenplanet thanks will look it up. Will keep you up to date
@@pierreduplessis1507 sounds great. Stay safe
One other thing check your battery
Terminal for corrosion it could limit the amps going to your starter you might not be drawing enough amps to turn the starter
Great tip. New terminals. I installed a new solenoid and hard start relay.
when you touch the screwdriver to the small wire to the big wire from the battery it should fire off the starter solenoid and engage the starter motor. as if the solenoid is bad it can be replaced. a good reliable starter to get is the powermaster starter sold on Summit Racing Equipment its a more reliable gear reduction starter. the clicking noise not the acellerator pump thats the bypass air cutoff solenoid on the carburetor as you have an aftermarket H30/31 pict carb originally susposed to be a Solex 34 Pict-3 carb will have the same type solenoid as older bug carburetors from 1967-1970 will have the solenoid below the choke element thats on the pilot jet as both solenoids do is prevent the engine from dieseling when the ignition is turned off. the older 6 volt bugs up to 1966 had no solenoid.
Your correct bad solenoid
Even with the key off a starter should have turned over
You are correct. The problem was a bad starter. Power going in to the starter, but nothing going out. Failed the hench test. Thank you for viewing and commenting. You will never know how many people your comment will help in the future. Lots of people read the comments for additional info. Please feel free to always comment on my videos. I'm always open to a helping hand. Anything to help out others as well.
Are you on Facebook? Check out Volkswagenplanet VW group.page as well. What year and model is your VW? Thank you again, stay safe
You need to install a starter Relay
I installed a hard start relay. It works great.
can't you cut the end of the rod in the cylinoid , it keeps the gas flow at high rpms. but it will run. ??
the cylinoid that connects to the carb.
@@unicron24 the issue is it won't start. Got spark, got fuel. The starter wont engage at all. No sound at all from the starter.
What?
@@unicron24 I think this comment was for a different video.
My problem was corrosion on wires at solenoid clean them use Wd 40
Never thought about using WD- 40 to clean the wires. Thanks for watching . and commenting. Great tip. Stay safe.
Bad starter your correct
You are correct. Thanks for reaching out. Your comments will.help out more than you will.ever realize. Feel free to comment on any of my videos. Take care, stay safe.
Did you have the key to the on position when you touched the screwdriver to jump it
Yes sir.
It sounds like a low voltage problem 12.4 votes is too low to turn a starter I would think
It failed the bench test. Selnoid was faulty. I put a autostick starter in it. They spin faster than the manual starters. You are correct about the voltage on the battery was low. Had a hard time holding a charge.
You sir are correct about the autostick starter I have one in my bug also and using a starter like that you don't have to worry about the bussing @@Volkswagenplanet
@@deandye3255 its a win,.win
Thank you for watching and comment
Selinoid Is Bad My Friend.
It arced with key off though?
That's what nap said also. I replaced the starter with a autostick starter. Thanks for commenting. Do you own a VW?
@@Volkswagenplanet Yes Sir I Have A 73 vw super beetle , The prob I'm having right now is you Now the Test light test? I'm sure you do.....
Well my test light stays on all the time I already replaced everything but the body of you Distributor , any hints?
As far as yours My Friend how about the starter relay?
Or if you don't have one try one the Hard Start Kit
Oh and as far as it arching while keys off I'd say ignition switch is out or back to start relay
@@juanmanuelcortez1098 not sure about that. I did install a hard start relay around the same time as well. Hopefully I can get back to the beetle soon. I had to put it on hold for the last month.
@@juanmanuelcortez1098 I have no idea where you could be pulling power. I was going to mention to you I also have a VW GROUP page on Facebook as well. Very active members. I'm sure they could answer any question that pops up. It's called " Volkswagenplanet" as well. Hope to see you there. Check out my friends TH-cam channel " Slades Beetle" . He has a 73 Super Beetle. He has gone through every wire on his car as well. It's a well established channel now. He is a great guy. He is also a moderator on my Facebook page as well.
sounds like you have a bad ground or bad battery.
Bad solenoid. I also installed a hard start relay
The starter should spin by touching the power to the negative.
You are correct. Thanks for commenting. You will never know how many people read the comments. Your info will help others. Feel free to comment on any of my videos. I hope to get back in the garage soon. Stay safe.
I'm having the exact same issue on my '68, bought a brand new starter and still same thing. tested 9 volts at the starter. I haven't figured it out yet.
Have you done the hard start relay? Thanks for commenting. Stay safe
@@Volkswagenplanet no not yet, but i will do that next and see what happens. thanks for the reply.
I figured it out, the electronic igniter in the distributor was bad...thanks for the help.
Mizenheimer, an electronic or mechanical distributor? I’m having same issue on my ‘63
The first thing you pointed at was an automatic choke.
That was another issue as well. This was the starter. This has been a journey. Thank you for commenting. If your on Facebook, check out our VW GROUP PAGE as well. Quite a few fellow youttuber on there. Almost 1600 active members. Same name as the TH-cam channel" Volkswagenplanet". Take care, have a Happy Thanksgiving.
@@Volkswagenplanet Thank you 😊 Happy Thanksgiving to you as well
I'm having the same problem with my 1971 vw karman Ghia
If you replace the starter, buy.a starter for a autostick. It engages faster. Same price at Napa.
I’m having the same problems i think it’s the silinoid
You are correct
The big starter wire gose to the + not -
I may have switched the wires. I had that starter in and out so many times. I replaced it with other starters I had as well. The starter end up failing on the bench test. Bad solenoid. I also installed a hard relay switch. Hope others read your comment. Thanks for commenting and pointing it out.
Might bee the strater motor
It failed the bench test all around
Just replace the starter
This was a on going issue. I have put 2 manual and 1 autostick starter. Seems to have fixed the issue. Take care, stay safe.