As a traditional bookbinder myself, I'm very pleased to see a well-executed backing on TH-cam. When I first began, I could find hardly any good examples. I wish this video had existed when I was but a beginner, as it would've saved me a great deal of time (and material). Thank you for sharing. Many bookbinders would not, as they keep their knowledge quite guarded. From one binder to another -- cheers!
Well, first of all, I don't have a sexy enough voice to keep people's attention! :-p And secondly, if you succeed to keep your attention to my often long, silent video, it's a testimony to the fact you have a good potential to be a decent bookbinder! Patience is highly regarded and required in this trade. :-)
Thanks for your considerate words. As I'm a very private person,I've never wanted to be part of any sort of "Social Networking" type things, or being in the public eye. So all these years,I've been hiding behind book presses.But since I started a blog a month ago, it has made me feel inclined to share what I know, humbly, hoping that my trade wouldn't be completely lost in the future. I try to make videos w/as much detail as possible, so that people get the basics right the first time.
It was a great help. I made a book using these videos two weeks ago (first time) Buckskin-bound sketch journal or my brother. We'll see how it holds up. What I love about the non-verbal thing is, a person who speaks no English can pause the written frames, use Google Translate, and get all the other information through gesture alone. International treasure.
Thank you so very much for taking the time to make this video! It is really very helpful to us "newbies" out there. I appreciate so much the effort it took to make this!
Thank you for your very comprehensive response! Your tutoring is really good. I like that you do not speak in the video. Sometimes the way people explain action can confuse what you see happening on the video if the video is not clear and close to the project - your way is visually clear and eliminates the verbal/visual contradictions that can happen. Good work and thanks again!
Good evening Glic, Backing is necessary for medieval/tight-back bindings, wherein the boards used for the cover are tightly attached to the backing ridges so that the finished binding wouldn't have "gaps" on the hinges and will be like a "smooth block" as a whole. You can think of the backing boards on the video as the boards used for the cover later on. **Continues to the next~*
This is a FANTASTIC video... The filming and editing was flawless... I used to make commercials and the key was... IF>>> you can understand the film without sound.. then it is a great video/film... "Bravo"
Thanks a lot. for so many years i was quite puzzled to see the nice hardbound round spine books. Now I see how it is made. I will try it surely to make my own journal Once again Merci beaucoup ;)
This a very good instructional video. i have found it interesting because of the information provided. It is also well presented being nether too quickly or too slowly presented. well done
Where were you when I needed you last year -.- , hahaha. This is amazing that you went through the trouble of giving such a detailed tutorial, hand binding is becoming a lost art in a world of consumerism that demands everything be done quickly and poorly.
Hi Escosa. I don't know if a draw knife could cut the book block right, but you can certainly try. Bookbinders in the western world use equipments such as a plough or guillotine to cut the edges of a book, but in Japanese bookbinding tradition, they use a curved knife to trim the edges. The edge shape of the knife is similar to mezzaluna (but with a single blade and a single handle), so you might want to try a single blade mezzaluna as well.
In these couple of videos you've managed to answer some questions I've head after watching many others, thank you for that! As I'm an absolute beginner, I was wondering - why is a spine rounded&backed? More precisely put, why are the signatures hammered all the way over the ridge of the press? I'd like to understand it, not just copy the instructions..
@ertekinakbas The purposes of the cords & tapes are to keep the integrity of the sewing & the connection to the case that will be glued to the book. There are a couple of different basic methods to "connect" the case when it comes to cords (unlike tapes). Traditionally, the cords are attached to the case externally through holes in the boards, of which, the process is done BEFORE the case is covered with whatever the material is to be. ~continue to the following comment~
For binding, we mainly use a glue called PVA, which I'm sure is commercially available at any art supply store. It's non acidic and has a great integrity. Most bookbinders use this glue now a days. For your information, PVA should be used only for binding books, NEVER for tasks like paper mending. Torn paper can be mended by using a glue called methylcellulose, or wheatpast. If pages of your book get torn, you mustn't use PVA. :-)
I have watched all your video's today and the visual instructions are brilliant! You can see clearly where you are placing the needle and how you tied the knots and everything. I have'nt made any books yet but I am very keen to give this craft a go. Question: is there any hard and fast rules on the grade/type of paper and stitch you should use if you want to make a book for a family tree to be put into. It will need to last generation after generation. Any advise?
You can use a glue called PVA (polyvinyl acetate) for most of the tasks. It should be available at any craft/art supply store, and I'm sure it should say book paste or for bookbinding. We buy 5~10 gallon buckets from the wholesaler, so am not 100% sure how retailers sell this commercially, to be honest.
Thanks for subscribing to my channel. As I'm doing "Bookbinding 101" at this moment, I'd better not do anything too complicated which might discourage people from actually trying what I'm demonstrating. So, the headband I'll probably be demonstrating on my next video is one of the most basic & the easiest, yet still attractive "One core with beads in 2 colors". When I get to "Bookbinding 102", I may make videos of different headband styles. I'm pretty spontaneous, so no promises though
@ertekinakbas ~~Continued from the previous comment ~~But it's become accustomed to do it internally, just like tapes. If done internally, the cords will be cut shorter, then "frayed", and glued to the endsheets. Either way, the cords or the tapes need to be kept longer than the length of which is used for the sewing.
I want to book bind my manuscript, making it look like it was a book back in 1881... It is a story about "Billy the Kid: Little Black Book of Secrets" (c). and NO>>> it isn't like any other... ;) I lived in Lincoln County New Mexico for 21 years, and after talking to people that their family told the TRUTH about what really went on.. I will have the first 50 in gold leaf... I love your style, and I hope when I have mine done you'll be proud of me...
@Rowena98675 Thanks for your kind words. Rounding and backing are sort of "minor" tasks in bookbinding that beginners might omit nowadays. However, as I said at the beginning of this video, they are important in order to off-set the swell of the spine from the sewing thread & to prevent the fore-edge from protruding overtime. These two are the major reasons why the tasks are necessary, ~ Continue to the next comment~
Hi Adam, If your manuscript is a "paperback" (you call it an achieve book?), backing isn't really necessary because it isn't sewn. Rounding is enough. But, if you are so desperate to back your book, but don't have a backing press or a lying press w/ backing boards, I just thought about using a bench vise as a lying press. But it won't quite work because there isn't a support on the bottom, and you need to make a set of backing boards. (which aren't really hard to make.) ~continues~
Ah, okay, guillotine - round - back - glue ... that makes more sense now. I was working from a book that was not entirely clear on the order in which to do those steps. If you're going to keep going for the silent film look (which is fantastic by the way) you might try finding some royalty free music to go along with it - even silent films usually had an accompanist.
thank you very much for your interesting and informative videos. Am I right in thinking that there are only two videos? If there are others please let me know as I am a budding beginner and want to continue with this craft. thank you
THIS was such a big help so thank you, but i have to say that i really wish you talked it would make it easyer to follow for most people and be much more entertaining ot make people really pay attention if they have the attention span of a squrriel = B
@Rowena98675 , but another practical reason must be based on one of the traditional methods of binding books (medieval style); when the spine of the book is glued to the spine of the exterior in a finishing press with tying -up boards (the style commonly known as “tightback”. This is in contrast to modern books whose spine is hollow.), it’s more practical to refine the raised cords and surface of the spine, & is easier to do tooling on the spine if it’s round. ~Continue to the next~
~continues~ But if your book has only a handful of pages and extremely thin, heavier paper (like the ones used for a sketchbook) is alright as well, in which case a signature should contain less paper, i.e 2~3 max sheets per signature. As for the sewing, if you've never bound a book before, sewing with tape is recommended. Make sure the the grain of the paper is parallel to the spine on the finished product. :-)
Did you make a video about stitching loose pages technique (like photo papers for an album book that opens flat), if you did not would you plz refer in a link to one?
~continuation~ Well, the Best advise to you is to take your book to a local bookbinder, and ask him/her to back it for you. I really don't think they'd charge you for backing a couple of books! I know I wouldn't! Well, if you were close to where I live, I'd be happy to do it for you. Just don't for get to bring me a six pack. :-p
In the absence of a lying press AND the absence of money to pay a binder to back my books for me, do you have any suggestions? I'm working on a razor-thin budget, but I still would like to achieve books with proper rounding and backing somehow.
@patricmanuel I can't seem to put any link on the video description or comment, so I have the blog information on my channel. Just click the "more" on the right below my channel description. It's in the "about this user" section.
*Continues ~* See one of my videos called "Prior to case making" from 9.27, then skip to see the result at 12.44. You can imagine how the finished medieval binding would look like. Compare that with a normal, ordinary cloth, hard cover book you must have in your library. You'll find gaps where the hinge of front & back cover towards the spine is. The binding methods of either bindings are different, and medieval methods requires a book to be backed. *Continues~~*
In both the video and another comment they imply that they glue the spine once after gluing on the endsheets and before guillotining the edges, and another time after rounding.
Hello again, Would you please answer a qustion for me? It is in regards to gluing up the spine of a book. Once you have sewn the book block-sewing on cords is the approached that I took--and right after you have removed it from the sewing frame, but before you trim the book block and before you round the spine, what is the very next step. I have been reading loads of information on bookbinding but none of them are clear as to the very next step after you take the book block off the sewing frame. I know that at some point in between removing the book block from the sewing frame and rounding the spine you need to attach the endpapers. I've watched your video on this approach. but do you need to put the block in the lying press and apply a layer of glue to the spine first? I thank you for your time and consideration. Kaersten
After removing a sewn book from a sewing frame, put the endpapers on, glue off the spine, let it dry, then trim the edges by either a plough or guillotine, and round and or back the book. This method leads to French joint binding, and it's one of the easiest methods of bookbinding that anyone can do.
Thank you for your reply. I took the book block off the sewing frame and I now have it in my press in order to reduce the thickness of the spine. In the morning I will take it out and continue on. Thank you for confirming about gluing the spine right after sewing it. I saw a video on Peter Goodwin backing a spine and he glued the spine right after taking it off of the sewing frame, but then he started to manipulate and round it before the glue was 100% dry. Do you do this too? After this I plan on going through the process of creating a hollow spine, for a full leather binding. I am new to bookbinding, but have years of experience with various traditional and contemporary sculptural processes. I am simply flying by the seat of my pants and trusting in my skills as a sculptor. Since I am a starving artist, I made my own sewing frame, book press, backing irons, and various press boards. It was satisfying to do so, now I will see if the goods will carry me though to the end result. Thank you again for your time and consideration. I have watched your videos over and over angain. They will serve my needs in the years to come-classic material set within contemporary media. Best Wishes, Kaersten
Hi Noofsmissus, First and foremost, the paper should be acid-free. (either pulp or cotton base) This matters a great deal. Secondly, though the weight of the paper depends on your tastes and the number of pages your book contains, it shouldn't be too light or too heavy for your book to last long. 80lb~90lb TEXT should be just adequate if your book has a good number of pages. ~continues to the next comment~
Are you guys on FB? Also where can I find a tool you guys use to sew the signatures? One video shows someone tying Down strings and how to tighten them. This is what I am referring to
@Rowena98675 Though many really old books (like ones from 15th, 16th century) do not have rounded spines, it seems bookbinders had developed a better way to execute their craft. As it only requires a minute of your time and a hammer to round your book, I’d suggest you to do it for the sake of your book. :-)
great video, I'm waiting for a tutorial of sewing headbands!!! Is it gonna be a typical headband, or I don't know how to call it, more complicated? ;-)
I think this guy is left handed the way he trimmed the end paper. Am I right? Also, I felt sorry for the book when it took the hammering. I feel like you might have secretly time travelled from the past and your very skilled at book binding. Thank you for the very helpful videos. If you do make more videos in the future, can we please hear some audio like the ASMR sounds of the paper and tools while your working? That would be very relaxing. Edit: Sorry I thought you were a guy. I checked your blog and your a woman. cool. tc xx
The only professional hand bindery nearby in my area is run by a gentleman who has a reputation for having a bad attitude - one which I can testify to from personal experience. I suppose there's no harm in asking, though. And most of my books I make are longstitch, actually, but that doesn't mean I wouldn't like to be ABLE to make a traditional hardback, you know? Just so I can tell people "Oh yeah, I can do that, no big deal." if it comes up.
As a traditional bookbinder myself, I'm very pleased to see a well-executed backing on TH-cam. When I first began, I could find hardly any good examples. I wish this video had existed when I was but a beginner, as it would've saved me a great deal of time (and material). Thank you for sharing. Many bookbinders would not, as they keep their knowledge quite guarded. From one binder to another -- cheers!
Well, first of all, I don't have a sexy enough voice to keep people's attention! :-p And secondly, if you succeed to keep your attention to my often long, silent video, it's a testimony to the fact you have a good potential to be a decent bookbinder! Patience is highly regarded and required in this trade. :-)
BookbindersChronicle hello. Can you do a comic book binding tutorial please?.
Be back
Shahzad Ahmad H
I listen to podcasts while watching your videos and kettle stitching because i lack all proper tools and no local book binders
Wow...fascinating to see how this is done! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for your considerate words. As I'm a very private person,I've never wanted to be part of any sort of "Social Networking" type things, or being in the public eye. So all these years,I've been hiding behind book presses.But since I started a blog a month ago, it has made me feel inclined to share what I know, humbly, hoping that my trade wouldn't be completely lost in the future. I try to make videos w/as much detail as possible, so that people get the basics right the first time.
I am astounded at the quality of your work! It's marvelous. I just can't wait until you complete the full tutorial. My heartfelt gratitude!
It was a great help. I made a book using these videos two weeks ago (first time) Buckskin-bound sketch journal or my brother. We'll see how it holds up. What I love about the non-verbal thing is, a person who speaks no English can pause the written frames, use Google Translate, and get all the other information through gesture alone. International treasure.
Thank you so very much for taking the time to make this video! It is really very helpful to us "newbies" out there. I appreciate so much the effort it took to make this!
Thank you for your very comprehensive response! Your tutoring is really good. I like that you do not speak in the video. Sometimes the way people explain action can confuse what you see happening on the video if the video is not clear and close to the project - your way is visually clear and eliminates the verbal/visual contradictions that can happen. Good work and thanks again!
Good evening Glic, Backing is necessary for medieval/tight-back bindings, wherein the boards used for the cover are tightly attached to the backing ridges so that the finished binding wouldn't have "gaps" on the hinges and will be like a "smooth block" as a whole. You can think of the backing boards on the video as the boards used for the cover later on. **Continues to the next~*
This is a FANTASTIC video...
The filming and editing was flawless...
I used to make commercials and the key
was... IF>>> you can understand the film without
sound.. then it is a great video/film...
"Bravo"
Thanks a lot. for so many years i was quite puzzled to see the nice hardbound round spine books. Now I see how it is made. I will try it surely to make my own journal
Once again Merci beaucoup ;)
Thanks for a very informative video.
Very clear, very concise and no music.
Wonderful.
Brilliant Job Sir - I was thinking how it to be round but its so easily done thanks a lot
This a very good instructional video. i have found it interesting because of the information provided. It is also well presented being nether too quickly or too slowly presented. well done
Where were you when I needed you last year -.- , hahaha. This is amazing that you went through the trouble of giving such a detailed tutorial, hand binding is becoming a lost art in a world of consumerism that demands everything be done quickly and poorly.
Hi Escosa. I don't know if a draw knife could cut the book block right, but you can certainly try. Bookbinders in the western world use equipments such as a plough or guillotine to cut the edges of a book, but in Japanese bookbinding tradition, they use a curved knife to trim the edges. The edge shape of the knife is similar to mezzaluna (but with a single blade and a single handle), so you might want to try a single blade mezzaluna as well.
Very detailed. Thanks for the generosity of the spirit.
This. Is. Gold.
and the WICKED brush
which is really cool
In these couple of videos you've managed to answer some questions I've head after watching many others, thank you for that! As I'm an absolute beginner, I was wondering - why is a spine rounded&backed? More precisely put, why are the signatures hammered all the way over the ridge of the press? I'd like to understand it, not just copy the instructions..
@ertekinakbas The purposes of the cords & tapes are to keep the integrity of the sewing & the connection to the case that will be glued to the book. There are a couple of different basic methods to "connect" the case when it comes to cords (unlike tapes). Traditionally, the cords are attached to the case externally through holes in the boards, of which, the process is done BEFORE the case is covered with whatever the material is to be. ~continue to the following comment~
For binding, we mainly use a glue called PVA, which I'm sure is commercially available at any art supply store. It's non acidic and has a great integrity. Most bookbinders use this glue now a days. For your information, PVA should be used only for binding books, NEVER for tasks like paper mending. Torn paper can be mended by using a glue called methylcellulose, or wheatpast. If pages of your book get torn, you mustn't use PVA. :-)
I have watched all your video's today and the visual instructions are brilliant! You can see clearly where you are placing the needle and how you tied the knots and everything. I have'nt made any books yet but I am very keen to give this craft a go. Question: is there any hard and fast rules on the grade/type of paper and stitch you should use if you want to make a book for a family tree to be put into. It will need to last generation after generation. Any advise?
You can use a glue called PVA (polyvinyl acetate) for most of the tasks. It should be available at any craft/art supply store, and I'm sure it should say book paste or for bookbinding. We buy 5~10 gallon buckets from the wholesaler, so am not 100% sure how retailers sell this commercially, to be honest.
This is amazing, any overall tips for complete beginner?
Thanks for subscribing to my channel. As I'm doing "Bookbinding 101" at this moment, I'd better not do anything too complicated which might discourage people from actually trying what I'm demonstrating. So, the headband I'll probably be demonstrating on my next video is one of the most basic & the easiest, yet still attractive "One core with beads in 2 colors". When I get to "Bookbinding 102", I may make videos of different headband styles. I'm pretty spontaneous, so no promises though
@ertekinakbas ~~Continued from the previous comment ~~But it's become accustomed to do it internally, just like tapes. If done internally, the cords will be cut shorter, then "frayed", and glued to the endsheets. Either way, the cords or the tapes need to be kept longer than the length of which is used for the sewing.
I want to book bind my manuscript,
making it look like it was a book back
in 1881... It is a story about
"Billy the Kid: Little Black Book of Secrets" (c).
and NO>>> it isn't like any other... ;)
I lived in Lincoln County New Mexico for 21
years, and after talking to people that their family
told the TRUTH about what really went on..
I will have the first 50 in gold leaf...
I love your style, and I hope when I have mine done
you'll be proud of me...
@Rowena98675 Thanks for your kind words. Rounding and backing are sort of "minor" tasks in bookbinding that beginners might omit nowadays. However, as I said at the beginning of this video, they are important in order to off-set the swell of the spine from the sewing thread & to prevent the fore-edge from protruding overtime. These two are the major reasons why the tasks are necessary, ~ Continue to the next comment~
Hi Adam, If your manuscript is a "paperback" (you call it an achieve book?), backing isn't really necessary because it isn't sewn. Rounding is enough. But, if you are so desperate to back your book, but don't have a backing press or a lying press w/ backing boards, I just thought about using a bench vise as a lying press. But it won't quite work because there isn't a support on the bottom, and you need to make a set of backing boards. (which aren't really hard to make.) ~continues~
Ah, okay, guillotine - round - back - glue ... that makes more sense now. I was working from a book that was not entirely clear on the order in which to do those steps. If you're going to keep going for the silent film look (which is fantastic by the way) you might try finding some royalty free music to go along with it - even silent films usually had an accompanist.
Music is distracting and wholly unnecessary.. the video is better without it.
thank you very much for your interesting and informative videos. Am I right in thinking that there are only two videos? If there are others please let me know as I am a budding beginner and want to continue with this craft. thank you
THIS was such a big help so thank you, but i have to say that i really wish you talked it would make it easyer to follow for most people and be much more entertaining ot make people really pay attention if they have the attention span of a squrriel = B
@Rowena98675 , but another practical reason must be based on one of the traditional methods of binding books (medieval style); when the spine of the book is glued to the spine of the exterior in a finishing press with tying -up boards (the style commonly known as “tightback”. This is in contrast to modern books whose spine is hollow.), it’s more practical to refine the raised cords and surface of the spine, & is easier to do tooling on the spine if it’s round. ~Continue to the next~
~continues~ But if your book has only a handful of pages and extremely thin, heavier paper (like the ones used for a sketchbook) is alright as well, in which case a signature should contain less paper, i.e 2~3 max sheets per signature. As for the sewing, if you've never bound a book before, sewing with tape is recommended. Make sure the the grain of the paper is parallel to the spine on the finished product. :-)
Did you make a video about stitching loose pages technique (like photo papers for an album book that opens flat), if you did not would you plz refer in a link to one?
What kind of glue did you use for the end sheets? Also, what kind of glue would you use for a leather binding?
do you have a tutorial on how to do straps on the covers as an enclosure method?
Thanks for your great effort, I liked your style :)
One question : Why do you keep excess cords while hammering?
Ertekin Akbaş they attach to the boards used for the covers
~continuation~ Well, the Best advise to you is to take your book to a local bookbinder, and ask him/her to back it for you. I really don't think they'd charge you for backing a couple of books! I know I wouldn't! Well, if you were close to where I live, I'd be happy to do it for you. Just don't for get to bring me a six pack. :-p
In the absence of a lying press AND the absence of money to pay a binder to back my books for me, do you have any suggestions? I'm working on a razor-thin budget, but I still would like to achieve books with proper rounding and backing somehow.
**Contines~** I hope this answered your question. If not, you can contact me via e-mail anytime. ~MHR
Is there anything you would have to do differently to round a spine sewn on tapes instead of the cords?
@patricmanuel I can't seem to put any link on the video description or comment, so I have the blog information on my channel. Just click the "more" on the right below my channel description. It's in the "about this user" section.
*Continues ~* See one of my videos called "Prior to case making" from 9.27, then skip to see the result at 12.44. You can imagine how the finished medieval binding would look like. Compare that with a normal, ordinary cloth, hard cover book you must have in your library. You'll find gaps where the hinge of front & back cover towards the spine is. The binding methods of either bindings are different, and medieval methods requires a book to be backed. *Continues~~*
glue them. :-) Will show it on my next video. (though I don't know when I'll have time to make it.)
do you glue off the spine before or after you guillotine the edges?
In both the video and another comment they imply that they glue the spine once after gluing on the endsheets and before guillotining the edges, and another time after rounding.
Hello again,
Would you please answer a qustion for me? It is in regards to gluing up the spine of a book.
Once you have sewn the book block-sewing on cords is the approached that I took--and right after you have removed it from the sewing frame, but before you trim the book block and before you round the spine, what is the very next step. I have been reading loads of information on bookbinding but none of them are clear as to the very next step after you take the book block off the sewing frame.
I know that at some point in between removing the book block from the sewing frame and rounding the spine you need to attach the endpapers. I've watched your video on this approach. but do you need to put the block in the lying press and apply a layer of glue to the spine first?
I thank you for your time and consideration.
Kaersten
After removing a sewn book from a sewing frame, put the endpapers on, glue off the spine, let it dry, then trim the edges by either a plough or guillotine, and round and or back the book. This method leads to French joint binding, and it's one of the easiest methods of bookbinding that anyone can do.
Thank you for your reply. I took the book block off the sewing frame and I now have it in my press in order to reduce the thickness of the spine. In the morning I will take it out and continue on.
Thank you for confirming about gluing the spine right after sewing it. I saw a video on Peter Goodwin backing a spine and he glued the spine right after taking it off of the sewing frame, but then he started to manipulate and round it before the glue was 100% dry. Do you do this too?
After this I plan on going through the process of creating a hollow spine, for a full leather binding.
I am new to bookbinding, but have years of experience with various traditional and contemporary sculptural processes. I am simply flying by the seat of my pants and trusting in my skills as a sculptor.
Since I am a starving artist, I made my own sewing frame, book press, backing irons, and various press boards. It was satisfying to do so, now I will see if the goods will carry me though to the end result.
Thank you again for your time and consideration. I have watched your videos over and over angain. They will serve my needs in the years to come-classic material set within contemporary media.
Best Wishes,
Kaersten
Hi Noofsmissus, First and foremost, the paper should be acid-free. (either pulp or cotton base) This matters a great deal. Secondly, though the weight of the paper depends on your tastes and the number of pages your book contains, it shouldn't be too light or too heavy for your book to last long. 80lb~90lb TEXT should be just adequate if your book has a good number of pages. ~continues to the next comment~
I was taught to sew the end sheets on as separate folios. Is gluing stronger than sewing?
Are you guys on FB?
Also where can I find a tool you guys use to sew the signatures? One video shows someone tying Down strings and how to tighten them. This is what I am referring to
@Rowena98675 Though many really old books (like ones from 15th, 16th century) do not have rounded spines, it seems bookbinders had developed a better way to execute their craft. As it only requires a minute of your time and a hammer to round your book, I’d suggest you to do it for the sake of your book. :-)
great video, I'm waiting for a tutorial of sewing headbands!!! Is it gonna be a typical headband, or I don't know how to call it, more complicated? ;-)
How do you attach the end pages to davy boards before binding?
Hello!
I like your videos so murch, it real cool ))) but I dont understud for what you doing Rounding?
You can see more videos on my channel. I've gotten 8 public TH-cam videos uploaded so far.
To se mi líbí
I think this guy is left handed the way he trimmed the end paper. Am I right? Also, I felt sorry for the book when it took the hammering. I feel like you might have secretly time travelled from the past and your very skilled at book binding. Thank you for the very helpful videos. If you do make more videos in the future, can we please hear some audio like the ASMR sounds of the paper and tools while your working? That would be very relaxing. Edit: Sorry I thought you were a guy. I checked your blog and your a woman. cool. tc xx
The only professional hand bindery nearby in my area is run by a gentleman who has a reputation for having a bad attitude - one which I can testify to from personal experience. I suppose there's no harm in asking, though.
And most of my books I make are longstitch, actually, but that doesn't mean I wouldn't like to be ABLE to make a traditional hardback, you know? Just so I can tell people "Oh yeah, I can do that, no big deal." if it comes up.
Nope. You can round tape sewn books just the same. - tilt the spine a bit, and hammer it. :-)
It seems to me that you have lost sound and color. :(
my sewing technique is a bit agricultural!
A great job, i was looking for the same.. I have a business of hard binding, i neend some tips from you.. Please skype, facebook??
No skype or any of those video chat as I'm keeping myself anonymous. If you have questions, you can email me.