Always always check valve heights before shimming, dry fit each cam and measure the gap, a little measuring and calculations will inform you exactly what thickness shims are required. Takes a little longer but you’ll be 100% sure it’ll run...that’s if you’ve taken the valve to piston clearance into account too. Cool vid guys, hope you work it out
A few years ago, I liberated some CG13DE cams from a scrap K11. I was going to fit the intake cam to my CG10DE coilpack.....mainly for a useful increase in low end torque. I never bothered in the end. It's a CVT auto so no ball of fire. It was one of those projects that I had every intention in doing, but other things got in the way. I'll be interested to see how this turns out :).
I'm pretty sure those shims don't go under the buckets. They are for the earlier type buckets that have the shims on top. All your valves will now be slightly open and leaving you with no compression.
Valve gap spec is huge on micras I'd run 0.25 intake 0.3 ex, 0.4 if your gonna turbo it. Pull the thick shims out, meassure eatch gap vith the new cam, pull the cams off, meassure shim thicnesses, calculate necesary shim thicknesses to run factory spec, meassure the shims you got with the cams, figure out whitch shim goes where. Happy camming!
Great vid, scrap man .... they've all got twb same tape playing round here it seems. Not that others opinions matter but the wheel size youve got on now looks spot on.
Haha yeah I think it’s the same everywhere. I know, I love my 13s! Just easier to get a set of rare jap wheels in 14s it seems haha. I’ll see what’s out there when it comes to it.
When removing the old cams you should have compressed the tensioner and fitted a retaining pin (small hole in the tensioner) when fitting the new cams bolt them in first then fit the chain. With the tensioner fully compressed you don't have to fight with it. Once the chains on you just pull the pin out of ghe tensioner. The cams aren't the issue the shims are, basically the valves are being held open constantly (hopefully they haven't hit the pistons) you might not even need shims, check your valve clearances. Should be a good guide somewhere on the forums 😊
Yeah man. I’m sourcing a set of new shimless buckets which should sort the issue. Then I’ll be running the shims in those buckets. Hopefully get it running next week! Thanks for your insight.
yeah, when you're removing cams, you can literally just whizz it off in any old order. doesnt make a difference until youre putting them back, then the torque pattern matters because youre distributing the load across the bearings and surfaces
Looks like you have messed up the timing on that chain at the end. I had once a micra that did the same. Chain had slipped over a single tooth and had the same problem starting. Moving chain back in place fixed the problem. Wish you best of luck fixing it mate!
you know that on a 4 stroke 4 cylinder engine number 1 and number 4 are going to be at tdc twice each in every 4 strokes each, once on the compression to ignition stroke and again on the overlap between the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the induction stroke so what did you use to get tdc in the right cylinder and you should have put a mark on the cam gears and the chain right next to it on both of them so you leave the chain adjuster alone and only slacken it off when you're ready to put the cam sprockets on the mounting dowels you will have the marks lined up when you tension the chain back up because it's either a rotation out or valve timing is out by a few teeth
is your performance cams grinded from normal cams or are they factory made performance cams? Grinded cams have smaller basic circle than factory cams. Im not sure, but i think those shims you got with those cams are for replacing the originals, if basic circle is same as original cams? I have grinded cams and basic circle got 2,5mm smaller to get 272° and 9,69mm max valve lift. So we changed CR12/14DE valves, cos those have 2mm taller valves and that rest 0,5mm we took of from valve stems
They titled hi lift but reality is much higher duration. That is big difference in engine behaviour. They loose low end power and gain some bit top end. If they don't get complete head job they don't go any way
Check your compression whit compression test. Maybe your shim too big and your valve no close and leak . He sound with loose compression. I hope your understanding my opinion ' It not my natif language
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Always always check valve heights before shimming, dry fit each cam and measure the gap, a little measuring and calculations will inform you exactly what thickness shims are required. Takes a little longer but you’ll be 100% sure it’ll run...that’s if you’ve taken the valve to piston clearance into account too. Cool vid guys, hope you work it out
A few years ago, I liberated some CG13DE cams from a scrap K11. I was going to fit the intake cam to my CG10DE coilpack.....mainly for a useful increase in low end torque. I never bothered in the end. It's a CVT auto so no ball of fire. It was one of those projects that I had every intention in doing, but other things got in the way. I'll be interested to see how this turns out :).
Hi, would you like to sell those camshafts?
I'm pretty sure those shims don't go under the buckets.
They are for the earlier type buckets that have the shims on top.
All your valves will now be slightly open and leaving you with no compression.
Interesting. I’ll look into this, thanks
Valve gap spec is huge on micras I'd run 0.25 intake 0.3 ex, 0.4 if your gonna turbo it. Pull the thick shims out, meassure eatch gap vith the new cam, pull the cams off, meassure shim thicnesses, calculate necesary shim thicknesses to run factory spec, meassure the shims you got with the cams, figure out whitch shim goes where. Happy camming!
Great vid, scrap man .... they've all got twb same tape playing round here it seems.
Not that others opinions matter but the wheel size youve got on now looks spot on.
Haha yeah I think it’s the same everywhere.
I know, I love my 13s! Just easier to get a set of rare jap wheels in 14s it seems haha. I’ll see what’s out there when it comes to it.
When removing the old cams you should have compressed the tensioner and fitted a retaining pin (small hole in the tensioner) when fitting the new cams bolt them in first then fit the chain. With the tensioner fully compressed you don't have to fight with it. Once the chains on you just pull the pin out of ghe tensioner. The cams aren't the issue the shims are, basically the valves are being held open constantly (hopefully they haven't hit the pistons) you might not even need shims, check your valve clearances. Should be a good guide somewhere on the forums 😊
Yeah man. I’m sourcing a set of new shimless buckets which should sort the issue. Then I’ll be running the shims in those buckets. Hopefully get it running next week!
Thanks for your insight.
@@TheCruise94 no worries, good luck with it 👌
yeah, when you're removing cams, you can literally just whizz it off in any old order. doesnt make a difference until youre putting them back, then the torque pattern matters because youre distributing the load across the bearings and surfaces
Looks like you have messed up the timing on that chain at the end. I had once a micra that did the same. Chain had slipped over a single tooth and had the same problem starting. Moving chain back in place fixed the problem. Wish you best of luck fixing it mate!
you know that on a 4 stroke 4 cylinder engine number 1 and number 4 are going to be at tdc twice each in every 4 strokes each, once on the compression to ignition stroke and again on the overlap between the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the induction stroke so what did you use to get tdc in the right cylinder and you should have put a mark on the cam gears and the chain right next to it on both of them so you leave the chain adjuster alone and only slacken it off when you're ready to put the cam sprockets on the mounting dowels you will have the marks lined up when you tension the chain back up because it's either a rotation out or valve timing is out by a few teeth
Sponge applicator on the tippex was the goat
Haha. I ended up with the scraggly brush head.
is your performance cams grinded from normal cams or are they factory made performance cams?
Grinded cams have smaller basic circle than factory cams.
Im not sure, but i think those shims you got with those cams are for replacing the originals, if basic circle is same as original cams?
I have grinded cams and basic circle got 2,5mm smaller to get 272° and 9,69mm max valve lift. So we changed CR12/14DE valves, cos those have 2mm taller valves and that rest 0,5mm we took of from valve stems
Yeah they’re grinded down factory cams.
I’ve got them working now, new video coming soon haha. Thanks for your help anyway.
They titled hi lift but reality is much higher duration. That is big difference in engine behaviour. They loose low end power and gain some bit top end. If they don't get complete head job they don't go any way
I have limp mode on my k11 wont pick up speed more than 50mph what is the issue any advice would be appreciated
Yo can i pls get a link to the engine service manual or the diagram you were using pls
I was actually using a manual bro. I was just using a screenshot from another video, that’s all that was there!
You have no compression there mate, I’d get rid of the spacers and try with just the cams if they have bigger lobes than your original cams
I know what colour your spraying it 😂😂😂😂I won’t tell 😂😂
Check your compression whit compression test. Maybe your shim too big and your valve no close and leak .
He sound with loose compression.
I hope your understanding my opinion ' It not my natif language