I've looked at several videos and yours makes the most sense of all. And you advocate using a 1 in bulkhead fitting which is really good. All the others are using half inch or 3/4-in fittings and it takes forever to fill a 5 gallon pail with one of those. With a 1 in poly valve, I can fill a 5 gallon pale in 10 seconds. The other issue with connecting tanks with small hoses is that if there's a any serious rainfall, the small diameter pipe can't handle all the water and it will be lost to overflow of the first tank. Thanks, Rob!
I have always collected rain water for watering my flower beds. I have used regular water barrels not large tanks though. When I connected them to equalize the water coming off my house roof downspouts I merely used 2+ way brass hose connecters with shut off valves on the spiget with double female end hose for the water passage (if the barrels are close enough washing machine hose works well).
I haven't gotten into the rainwater harvesting course yet, but this storage-flow, passive harvesting info is really helpful. 🙏🏼 Before hearing about the biofilm and it's capacity to keep water healthy, I've done a couple of version D. I've learned that all of these strategies are functional, and that I prefer to keep the water flowing unless I'm aiming for a reason to use the potential of the stored mass to collect heat for a greenhouse or something similar. Thanks, Verge and Rob for this mini lesson 🙏🏼🕊️ Difference Makers!
Would it work to have a coil of garden hose in one water tank using a “siphon” method to transfer the water to the 2nd tank would the tanks continue to have the same levels as per your example “C” but without drilling the tanks?
I heard someone say that a B style system could allow you to monitor/ration stored water more easily, as each tank is independent from the other. Also, if one became contaminated or sprung a leak, you'd only have to drain down the affected tank, rather than potentially losing all the stored water.
Thanks for the video. We have an off grid potable water system fed by a creek into 3 settlement tanks then into a 5000lt water storage tank. Providing the creek has not dried up or frozen solid there is a constant flow from the settlement tanks into the storage tank. I would like to install another 5000lt water tank next to the existing one. My concern is how to ensure that both tanks remain equally fresh. Would option C achieve this? Many thanks.
Thank you for the video. I am collecting rainwater from a house room. We have the gutters piped to the top of the tanks. I want 2 tanks for ever downspout gutter. In using the unifed method you recommend my issue is slope as my second tank will be lower than my initially filled tank. Can this method still be used with level but uneven tanks? ( I hope I am making sense)
the advantage of B is that the fitting are not under pressure from the water in the tanks so the chance of leaks is significantly less , you would be better putting at small collection tank by the house this provides a buffer tank and a settlement tank that can be easily cleaned before it hit your largest tanks saves money in the following pipe can then be smaller longer before it gets to your large storage tanks
The disadvantage is slower movement when it's raining hard. You'll lose potential water from overflow in the upstream tanks when down steam tanks aren't yet full.
On my farm I have 2 tanks fed by a solar pump on a bore, which are connected and can both be fill simultaneously - but once full, only one feeds out to the cattle troughs etc; that way I can monitor it, and I have a full backup tank if the pump breaks down.
Question what should be the optimal pipe size to avoid first tank overflowing before tank 2 fills up, due to a rapid discharge flow on tank 1 faster than discharge flow on tank 2?
I'm trying to setup a 2 tank system but my tanks will be installed about 46' away from the gutter and the tanks inlet might be level with the inlet of the rain head. What do you recommend so that I would be able to fill them both? I also wanted to add a filtration system because of the shingle roof I have and I only have space outside to mount the filtration system as well as the tanks.. I live in the northeast where I would have to winterize the lines. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
You didn’t even mention different heights in elevation of the tanks. C only works if the tanks are even height. B and D work if your second tank is shorter. And will keep first tank full but you need to add a vacuum break to line in between.
I've looked at several videos and yours makes the most sense of all. And you advocate using a 1 in bulkhead fitting which is really good. All the others are using half inch or 3/4-in fittings and it takes forever to fill a 5 gallon pail with one of those. With a 1 in poly valve, I can fill a 5 gallon pale in 10 seconds. The other issue with connecting tanks with small hoses is that if there's a any serious rainfall, the small diameter pipe can't handle all the water and it will be lost to overflow of the first tank. Thanks, Rob!
I have always collected rain water for watering my flower beds. I have used regular water barrels not large tanks though. When I connected them to equalize the water coming off my house roof downspouts I merely used 2+ way brass hose connecters with shut off valves on the spiget with double female end hose for the water passage (if the barrels are close enough washing machine hose works well).
I haven't gotten into the rainwater harvesting course yet, but this storage-flow, passive harvesting info is really helpful. 🙏🏼
Before hearing about the biofilm and it's capacity to keep water healthy, I've done a couple of version D. I've learned that all of these strategies are functional, and that I prefer to keep the water flowing unless I'm aiming for a reason to use the potential of the stored mass to collect heat for a greenhouse or something similar.
Thanks, Verge and Rob for this mini lesson 🙏🏼🕊️
Difference Makers!
Thanks Rob, very interesting.
Thanks Rob! very helpful information as always.
Would it work to have a coil of garden hose in one water tank using a “siphon” method to transfer the water to the 2nd tank would the tanks continue to have the same levels as per your example “C” but without drilling the tanks?
I heard someone say that a B style system could allow you to monitor/ration stored water more easily, as each tank is independent from the other. Also, if one became contaminated or sprung a leak, you'd only have to drain down the affected tank, rather than potentially losing all the stored water.
Thanks for the video. We have an off grid potable water system fed by a creek into 3 settlement tanks then into a 5000lt water storage tank. Providing the creek has not dried up or frozen solid there is a constant flow from the settlement tanks into the storage tank. I would like to install another 5000lt water tank next to the existing one. My concern is how to ensure that both tanks remain equally fresh. Would option C achieve this? Many thanks.
Thank you for the video. I am collecting rainwater from a house room. We have the gutters piped to the top of the tanks. I want 2 tanks for ever downspout gutter. In using the unifed method you recommend my issue is slope as my second tank will be lower than my initially filled tank. Can this method still be used with level but uneven tanks? ( I hope I am making sense)
the advantage of B is that the fitting are not under pressure from the water in the tanks so the chance of leaks is significantly less , you would be better putting at small collection tank by the house this provides a buffer tank and a settlement tank that can be easily cleaned before it hit your largest tanks saves money in the following pipe can then be smaller longer before it gets to your large storage tanks
The disadvantage is slower movement when it's raining hard. You'll lose potential water from overflow in the upstream tanks when down steam tanks aren't yet full.
On my farm I have 2 tanks fed by a solar pump on a bore, which are connected and can both be fill simultaneously - but once full, only one feeds out to the cattle troughs etc; that way I can monitor it, and I have a full backup tank if the pump breaks down.
Question what should be the optimal pipe size to avoid first tank overflowing before tank 2 fills up, due to a rapid discharge flow on tank 1 faster than discharge flow on tank 2?
Thank you useful!
I'm trying to setup a 2 tank system but my tanks will be installed about 46' away from the gutter and the tanks inlet might be level with the inlet of the rain head. What do you recommend so that I would be able to fill them both? I also wanted to add a filtration system because of the shingle roof I have and I only have space outside to mount the filtration system as well as the tanks.. I live in the northeast where I would have to winterize the lines. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
B and D will work exactly the same.
How to connect 3 rain water tank but the outlet will be at the third tank
You didn’t even mention different heights in elevation of the tanks. C only works if the tanks are even height. B and D work if your second tank is shorter. And will keep first tank full but you need to add a vacuum break to line in between.
Scenario A: you have a MINI ? I built that car.