Do you ever watch videos of Japanese timber framers? Their tools and techniques are unsurpassed and have taught me a lot. I think you’d learn a lot from them as well.
I like these structures you build. If you don’t mind sharing, where are you located? I’m in eastern Kentucky and could be interesting in lending a hand on a project if you’re nearby.
We split our time between north of you and south of you. We’re probably about four hours from you in the summer and 6-7 in the winter. I’m starting a project for friends next week - a small cabin they’re going to use for a home office. The property owner wants to have people over on raising day. Don’t know when that will be yet - I’m starting milling next week. We’ll get you an email address as the date gets closer if you want to know more about coming.
Circling back here … we’re working with a property owner in NC to try to get a weekend short class and raising experience together later this year. Please sign up for this interest list to learn more when we have details worked out! the-artisan-life.ck.page/f609b5f502
Great video! I learn a lot from those close up shots. Could you pls explain the "critical" bevel at 20:24 a bit more? I have never seen this before on a tenon. And why removing the part at 18:57 at all? Thanks :)
That's a reduction. It's done in square rule timber framing on the opposite face from the reference face. The bevel helps the timber not crack along that line created by the reduction. This technique is sometimes used for joists. Joists can also use a particular kind of "swoop" that's carved out to create the same function. I'll add an explanation to the video description for anyone else who as the same question. The house I currently live in didn't make correct cut outs on the joists and almost every one of them has split. The floor shakes and the house rattles whenever you walk. No good! Luckily the sills are strong and the rest of the house is well-built so it's still standing, but I do plan to fix the problem eventually.
Killionleon the square rule theory if to make allowance for Timbers that are not uniform dimensions. If you reduce the joinery to be exactly 7.5 inches on your 8x8 beam, you end up with a solid joint. Some timber is 7 7/8 x 8 1/16 at one end and another could be 8 x 7 3/4. Make each joint 7 1/2 and the problem is eliminated. Just more work.
90 degree interior angles are prone to cracking at the vertex. The bevel spreads the stresses out so it’s less likely to crack. Not sure I understand your question about the mortise. It looks like a rectangular pocket for the tenon.
Why didn't I use the slick on this one? I didn't have my sharpening stone yet. I re-ground the edge on the slick because it came too steep so it didn't work well on pine. The other video with mortiser you commented on is frm a different project and after I re-ground the slick.
I watched till the end. I’m a new framer and saw some good tips. Obviously if you are an experienced framer you might find there are efficiency points to give but he got the job done. Now do 11 more….
Obviously a TH-cam timberframer newbie. I love how they use power tools to cut but then whip out the Japanese saw to cut stuff they could cut with the skillsaw. Also skillsaws can be used vertically. Took this guy 4 times longer than it should have. If your saw doesn't cut deep enough finish the cut with a hand saw. Also cut vertically with the same skill saw and finish with hand saw. Also what was the point of hand sawing the last cut by hand???
Do you ever watch videos of Japanese timber framers? Their tools and techniques are unsurpassed and have taught me a lot. I think you’d learn a lot from them as well.
I’m reading a Japanese joinery book right now. It’s impressive work. If you’re in Kentucky, have you ever gone to one of Chickadee’s workshops?
I might call that a good little Japanese saw ❤
Both saws
Great job!
Really enjoyed this!
Awesome! Square rule is great. Everything fit together perfectly on raising day.
this is. so neat to watch, i am getting excited for my project
thanks dude!
I like these structures you build. If you don’t mind sharing, where are you located? I’m in eastern Kentucky and could be interesting in lending a hand on a project if you’re nearby.
We split our time between north of you and south of you. We’re probably about four hours from you in the summer and 6-7 in the winter. I’m starting a project for friends next week - a small cabin they’re going to use for a home office. The property owner wants to have people over on raising day. Don’t know when that will be yet - I’m starting milling next week. We’ll get you an email address as the date gets closer if you want to know more about coming.
Circling back here … we’re working with a property owner in NC to try to get a weekend short class and raising experience together later this year. Please sign up for this interest list to learn more when we have details worked out! the-artisan-life.ck.page/f609b5f502
Great video! I learn a lot from those close up shots. Could you pls explain the "critical" bevel at 20:24 a bit more? I have never seen this before on a tenon. And why removing the part at 18:57 at all? Thanks :)
That's a reduction. It's done in square rule timber framing on the opposite face from the reference face. The bevel helps the timber not crack along that line created by the reduction. This technique is sometimes used for joists. Joists can also use a particular kind of "swoop" that's carved out to create the same function.
I'll add an explanation to the video description for anyone else who as the same question.
The house I currently live in didn't make correct cut outs on the joists and almost every one of them has split. The floor shakes and the house rattles whenever you walk. No good! Luckily the sills are strong and the rest of the house is well-built so it's still standing, but I do plan to fix the problem eventually.
Killionleon the square rule theory if to make allowance for Timbers that are not uniform dimensions. If you reduce the joinery to be exactly 7.5 inches on your 8x8 beam, you end up with a solid joint. Some timber is 7 7/8 x 8 1/16 at one end and another could be 8 x 7 3/4. Make each joint 7 1/2 and the problem is eliminated. Just more work.
What is or which side is the top and why does the bevel stop the timber from cracking? what does the mortise look like when it joins the tenon?.
90 degree interior angles are prone to cracking at the vertex. The bevel spreads the stresses out so it’s less likely to crack.
Not sure I understand your question about the mortise. It looks like a rectangular pocket for the tenon.
An industrial band saw would do just nicely.
Sure would...want to Super Thanks me $7400 for a Mafell?
@@appalachianwoodhomestead Okay, your project, your money. I was just making a friendly observation.
might be a novice question, but why not use a sander for the finish touches rather than a block plane?
Partially because I don’t have a handheld belt sander right now
Why don’t you use the full 2” for the paring work you do?
I have seen some high stress on the 1.5 that would make any one feel uncomfortable
Why didn't I use the slick on this one? I didn't have my sharpening stone yet. I re-ground the edge on the slick because it came too steep so it didn't work well on pine. The other video with mortiser you commented on is frm a different project and after I re-ground the slick.
You might want to sharpen your chisel and plane irons. They seem to be dull, wasting your energy and causing too much clean-up time.
Didn't have a good sharpening system last summer and the slick came ground for hard wood, not pine. Have a solid sharpening set up now. 👍
Buy a bigger skillsaw.
Super thanks me a grand for the 16” and I’ll get right on it 😜
That was really painful to watch.
I watched till the end. I’m a new framer and saw some good tips. Obviously if you are an experienced framer you might find there are efficiency points to give but he got the job done. Now do 11 more….
Obviously a TH-cam timberframer newbie. I love how they use power tools to cut but then whip out the Japanese saw to cut stuff they could cut with the skillsaw. Also skillsaws can be used vertically. Took this guy 4 times longer than it should have. If your saw doesn't cut deep enough finish the cut with a hand saw. Also cut vertically with the same skill saw and finish with hand saw. Also what was the point of hand sawing the last cut by hand???