The only thing missing from these videos is the incredible smells of the various woods when being cut, sanded and worked with. Thanks for documenting all your hard work.
May I suggest that you check out their merchandise shop and purchase a sample set of their wood offcuts so you can check the aromas and textures as you watch the vids......
Hi Steve, I believe the added weight is to dampen "rudder flutter". For this reason it's also why your "trailing edge" should be symmetrical and finished with a square edge and NOT rounded over. Cheers, Safe travels, see you out here.
So I have been an avid viewer since the first lead pour... so to see them make it this far and get a 3 minute feature on the Sunday Today show last week is awesome...
Making the keel was probably my favourite . That molten lead was scary scary stuff and I was wondering when it was all going to go badly wrong and make some suits of armour out of the guys ! But it got done . I love Tally Ho as well , but their first lead pouring attempt failed ... no lead suits thank goodness . I dont watch Telly anymore ! That coach housing looks pretty too . Hope it can hold the weight of the tender , sure it will though because everything is thought through and though.
Yea i was thinking the same thing about the weight on the rudder toward the bottom. It's probably there to naturally bring it back to center since the rudder is at an angle. Its like a stabilizer and counter weight at the same time. The man was brilliant. Under sail it will also help steering and to re-center the rudder. I don't think I would have even thought of doing that.
That's kinda what I'm thinking too. Acts a bit like caster on a car, or more likely a motorcycle. Keeps the rudder centered when not actively trying to steer.
I wonder if this was 'invented' accidentally .... like someone had to do an angled rudder to fit their new double ender hull design, and it sucked because the boat couldn't hold its course because the rudder always wanted to float up to one side or the other - so when they weighted it(to pull it down and thus unexpectedly straight back) they then discovered that their once squirrelly boat now would auto correct hands free dead ahead - and it became a feature instead of a problem, which a vertical rudder could have neither of
@@BenjaminT.Minkler like a trim tab…. The 25 pounds might be the weight that works best to help hold it at a specific angle when the boat is healed over
I was thinking it was there both for the reason you stated, to overcome the buoyancy of the wood, but also to counterbalance the tiller and help to return it to center when maneuvering at low speed.
There is something magical about watching a skilled worker using a chisel. Your work skills is a inspiration to us all Steve. Thank you for brightening upp our week again
Love the rudder ballast being inset rather than just attached to the edge. Smart move in my thoughts as well. Great job Steve. Fairing should include a smooth and polish on that bronze edge beautifully. Can hardly wait. Coming right along.
Anne & Ben, the sound is most excellent on this. I’m watching on my phone, listening with ear buds. When Steve was working on the rudder, I kept hearing noise coming from the other room. It was on video! Y’all do an outstanding job producing these episodes. Huzzah!
Excellent craftsmanship! Regarding the weight on the rudder my explanation is, when the boat is heeled over the lead weight at the edge of the rudder will pull down and therefore counteract weather helm. The boat will feel better on the rudder and it will be easier to steer.
The weight in the rudder is for self-centering. The transom is angled so any rudder deflection causes the weight to be lifted so it’ll tend to want to hang straight.
I’m sure he’s used it numerous times but today was the first instance I noticed Steve using a Yankee screwdriver and what memories it brought back. My dad was a carpenter from the mid 1950s thru the late 1970s. I was routinely on a job site with him on weekends, no school days or in his shop in the evening while he built cabinets. If I saw him once, I saw him a 1000 times setting slotted wood screws with his well worn, Yankee Screwdriver. I never became proficient using it like he was……thanks for creating the flood of wonderful memories.
Concerning the lead in the rudder: The wooden rudder will of course float and with a perfectly vertical turning axis that won't matter because the bronze fixtures will keep it there and turning it to the left or right won't change anything. However if you're not at 90° but the rudder is more or less hanging down from it's fixtures like in the picture, rotating the rudder around those means it's further up. So let's say you turn the rudder 20° to the left, the rudder is a bit closer to the surface than it was when you were steering straight. Now buoyancy will push for the rudder to be even farther up, which means it will push the rudder further to the left until it hits something and can't move further. The most stable position for a rudder like that is with the anchor points underneath it (which of course doesn't work, because there's a boat in the way), unless there's something heavy attached, that keeps it from floating up. So you should really look into how much lead you need because if you use to little, the rudder will move on it's own. You can try this with a small wooden board in your bath tube. Just hold it at two points along one edge and try to push the board into the water. If the edge you're holding on to is 90° to the water surface, the board will just push up but turning it won't make a difference. If you hold it an angle like we see for Arabella, it will push to either side (unless you can hold it perfectly vertical).
As we say in the description, it’s taken almost all of the skills needed to build the rest of the boat!
2 ปีที่แล้ว +2
@@AcornToArabella Talking about the rudder, when you mentioned the wight I assumed it must serve a similar purpose as counter wight on control surfaces on an airplane to keep them level so you dont have to fight them staying level. The rudder seems to be tilted backwards so the wight would center it if the rudder now is heavier then the water it displaces. Due to the rudders angle any movement left or right (yea not marine terms but you get it XD) would elevate the wight a bit, gravity would want to pull it down aka center the rudder. If you for some reason tilted the rudder forward instead it would probably prefer to go either all left or all right and not stay centered. Its like when you where a kid and had something that could rotate around a stick but was heavier on one side that stuck out, tilting it back and forth would rotate that thing to what ever direction allowed it to point down. Also you car should self center if you let go of the wheel due to how the front suspension is set up so I suspect this is the same thing, you want to go strait in your boat and not go in circles when ever your not paying 100% attention to the wheel so to speak. Anyways my theory but it might not be the correct reason or it could be one of two, as you sad it wanting to float up is probably not desirable ether. Good luck with the boat!
@@AcornToArabella I have been watching from Tasmania on and off since the keel pour. Perhaps one day you will get to the Australian Wooden Boat festival !! It would be amazing to see the Arabella in person.
Steve - Old guy tip: When you have a 5 gallon pail with a bung you can lay the pail on its side with the bung up, and then roll the pail on the bench to begin the pour. Way easier than tipping it to pour.
17:30 Weather helm, the tendency for the boat to turn into the wind, is why the lead is there. Weather helm is desirable (achieved by proper sail trim) for sailing because it means that your keel-rudder combination is producing hydrodynamic lift to windward. As the boat heels over the pressure on the rudder to counter this weather helm would grow proportionally to the heel. The lead is there to compensate for this and adds a steering assist by drawing the rudder to leeward; or downwards while heeled. This will reduce the force required to hold the tiller in the necessary position to produce the desired hydrodynamic lift. Thanks for another great video.
I’d sure love to hear the narration that Steve added early on in the build. As an example, you did all that work to fit the hinge, but no description. Thanks!
28 minutes goes by in a flash and before I know it I am left waiting for another week for the next glimpse at your progress. I guess I am just an Arabella junkie. Thank you for sharing your journey with us.
Love the adze work! It looks like it would be tough on the back though. Steve is obviously skilled with the adze- leaving a very even and pretty smooth cut! I’m afraid I’d leave it a mess!
What amazes me most is how you figure out beforehand the best method to translate Aktin's plan measurements on paper to the actual rudder's wood production WITHOUT having to do it completely all over again, like most of us). Just awesome!
The gust of wind before the adze was epic. Like the wind did you a favor and got out of the way. Lol. Great job, it will look like a boat more when the rudder goes on. Until Next Friday, 🫡
I believe the lead on the Keel is to keep the keel centered while underway. Without it, the keel will tend to float port or starboard, demanding continuous course correction while underway.
1. "Steve's Rudderworks" t-shirt drop please. 2. To the editor. Time-lapse vid with Normal rate tool audio is OUTSTANDING. Such a pleasing effect! 3. Just carry on ALL! Love it! ALL OF IT!
@Acorn To Arabella You are right. The lead increases the moment of inertia of the rudder and thereby reduce the change of angular speed of the rudder, mostly by waves would be my guess. Putting the mass further out from the pivot of the rudder increases this effect for the same mass.
Part of the joy of watching A2A, is watching Steve & co. muddle through and pick up new skills, like pouring lead. Another part is the things he does that are just superlative, the adze and chain saw work being the top of that list.
Since you have a wooden rudder, which floats and your hinge is tilted, the rudder wants to float up. It will either turn to SB or to PS as a result of this. Now it is balanced and will stay put unless you pull the helm. If you put more lead in it will try to remain centred and the helm will be heavy at larger angles.
It’ll be interesting to see how it feels… I’ve not sailed a boat that has a weighted rudder, and most likely with just 25 lbs, the thing will be neutrally buoyant rather than prone to sink. It’ll be interesting for sure. -Anne
@@AcornToArabella Realise the 25lbs was calculated by Atkins based on volume of the rudder en the specific weight of the wood. By using heavier wood you need less lead and when using lighter wood more lead. More taper less volume of wood, so less lead and so on.
Pure ASMR watching Steve carve the slots in rudder for he hinge , great work Steve. You should have the Entire team and even you Anne sign some of the bigger chips from Steves Adze work on the rudder and have them encased in Clear resin and sell them.
Hi Steve, I suppose the lead is to counteract the buoyancy of the rudder to keep the boat steering easier on a very light wind. As the center of buoyancy is lower then the rudder hanging axis the buoyancy will turn the rudder away from the neutral position to a side. So the lead will keep the rudder in amidship position. Best wishes!
In my opinion this weight helps for self steering. I owe a sailing model which steers (due to the same weight on the lower end of the rudder) by it self. The ideal is , in the model , when the boat is heeling over and tends to steer towards the wind the rudder is falling to lee and by so keeping the vessel on course. …. On the model, made from old drawings, this really works. It keeps it course without a remote control on the rudder.
@@marcoheijboer7003 This is very interesting what you say but I am afraid the added weight is not enough to steer the boat but just good to make the rudder neutral. When the boat heels much (on gusts for instance) the straightning moment is so great so to keep the boat on course you have to apply a great force on the rudder. This is dozens of kilos (on rudder not on tiler). Under the water everything is getting lighter so to steer the boat the way you say it would require double weight. So my point is the influence of the rudder weight is a tiny bit compare to the forces that are in place and that keeps the boat balanced. So the main force that pulls the boat away from the wind comes form the balanced sails when the center of the sails forces is upfront the center of the boat mass. And this is the great force.
You are correct. The weight will pull the rudder down to zero degrees. The higher the lead moves up towards the surface the more weight resistance there is. If you let go of the tiller, the rudder tends towards the centerline of the keel. When heeling over, the weight helps to stabilize the rudder's tendency to float.
Arabella is certainly being built to last, I love that. 100 years from now the then owner will have a rich resource in these detailed video "documents." That rudder is coming along nicely - Forward!
I suppose that the added lead weight would naturally *return the rudder to center* ; by pulling it down, which is also straight back because the rudder hangs down at an angle vs being vertical perfectly upright .... interesting that this problem(that otherwise without the weight would float up, steering to one side or the other) now becomes a feature! and one that would not be an option on a vertical rudder which could not have an auto correct to return to center even if it was weighted(because that would only pivot perfectly left and right, not also up and down some without being angled under the boat like this one) pretty neat!
I pride myself on being a good woodworker but you people are awesome. I have watched from close to the beginning and find inspiration in most every video. Keep up the great work. There will be great joy and sadness when this project is over. Thank you !!!
Another too quickly ended video! Wonderful cam work, great music and great work with the adze! Next week's edition can't come too soon! Stay well and stay safe!
Looking at the geometry on the plans there could be a self centering component with the lead also a counterbalance when healed over making it lighter or more manageable on the tiller. Interesting design, and probably tunable to the pilots preference.
May never see this comment but… if you put the 5 gallon bucket in the intro horizontally on the bench and then just roll it a bit till the oil comes out then back up when your done. Easy trick I learned awhile ago 👍
Jim 922 from Arkansas, I have been watching from the beginning. Every week I am just in awe with the progress on the project. Something new every week and Steve is always up to the challenge. I Love this episode.ps and a hardy hello to all the crew working behind the scenes in the boat house.
i really hope steve ENJOYS sailing. being stuck on a small boat in the ocean is way different than being a woodworker on a boat. all the skills of the last 4yrs (and there are many) and suddenly he will stop to sail
I've never used an adz, but you make it look so easy. I couldn't imagine wielding such a tool on something I had spent so much time to initially put together. I have always enjoyed watching the skill with which you work.
FYI, placing the 5gallon bucket on a flat surface with the bung at 12 o’clock, ensuring the handle is out of the way. It’s possible to just roll the bucket in either direction to facilitate a good pour allowing air inside to stop the glugging. Simply rolling the bucket back will stop the flow giving you much more control.
I've been a carpenter for 50 years and it was so nice to see you using a traditional hand router to bottom out the housings. I made one early in my career out of a piece of oak beam from a seventeenth century house we were renovating and used it a lot till power routers took over. I've been following your progress almost since the start and just love what you are creating!
Really enjoyed both the content and the style/format of this video. Seeing the lathe in use brought back memories of when you were collecting all of those machines. Good times!
The weight in the rudder helps holding the rudder straight. Because the angle of the the rudder hangs on the boat, and the wood wanting to float, that will make the natural state of the rudder to be folded upwards. Making you sail in circles when not actively holding the rudder. The lead on the rudder will keep the rudder hanging down and thus straight. Helping you with steering in a straight line. it's basically using gravity as a spring to center the rudder. Or like how the geometry of a bicycle front wheel fork helps keep the wheel in front, and allows you to steer by pure balance.
This rudder is amazing. I especially liked seeing your tapered circular saw jig. I don't know where I can use it, but I will think on it and design something I can taper like that. Thanks for sharing. Sweet spot on the Today program.
Extremely satisfying episode. Steve you are a genius. Camera work was expectational. Can you comment on when you are going to take some sailing lessons?
I think the lead is a bit of both flotation and gravity, because the rudder hangs down (as opposed to the vertical rudders), i think the lead helps to keep the rudder centralised.
Saw you on the Today show. The world is watching your great progress.
Is it available on youtube/online?
@@volundrfrey896 Yes: th-cam.com/video/umb5_mna07o/w-d-xo.html
@@volundrfrey896 th-cam.com/video/umb5_mna07o/w-d-xo.html
@@volundrfrey896 I went to The Today Show website, clicked on Sunday Today and was able to play the interview from there.
They have already been kind of famous before the Today show. Now they are even becoming celebrities? 😁 ;-)
Best regards, luck and health.
The only thing missing from these videos is the incredible smells of the various woods when being cut, sanded and worked with. Thanks for documenting all your hard work.
May I suggest that you check out their merchandise shop and purchase a sample set of their wood offcuts so you can check the aromas and textures as you watch the vids......
The Gem Collection might be of interest. Lil nuggets of every wood in Arabella.
@@AcornToArabella I highly recommend them!
Mine arrived as "dental implants" which reduced my tax and duty payment significantly 🇻🇨
I recommend smelly vision.
@@markwoodger2 Smellervision!😂
I love how so many years into this Steve is still wearing approach shoes. I'm partial to flip flops, but footwear its a very personal choice...
Hi Steve, I believe the added weight is to dampen "rudder flutter". For this reason it's also why your "trailing edge" should be symmetrical and finished with a square edge and NOT rounded over. Cheers, Safe travels, see you out here.
So I have been an avid viewer since the first lead pour... so to see them make it this far and get a 3 minute feature on the Sunday Today show last week is awesome...
Making the keel was probably my favourite . That molten lead was scary scary stuff and I was wondering when it was all going to go badly wrong and make some suits of armour out of the guys ! But it got done . I love Tally Ho as well , but their first lead pouring attempt failed ... no lead suits thank goodness . I dont watch Telly anymore ! That coach housing looks pretty too . Hope it can hold the weight of the tender , sure it will though because everything is thought through and though.
I had to check it out, NBC finds Steve on TH-cam.
th-cam.com/video/umb5_mna07o/w-d-xo.html
We've all been here since the first lead pour...
My man has got to be like a world top 10 ads swinger by now.
You've gotta love a boat building video that includes metal casting.
Cheers from Alaska
🙌
Yea i was thinking the same thing about the weight on the rudder toward the bottom. It's probably there to naturally bring it back to center since the rudder is at an angle. Its like a stabilizer and counter weight at the same time. The man was brilliant. Under sail it will also help steering and to re-center the rudder. I don't think I would have even thought of doing that.
That's kinda what I'm thinking too. Acts a bit like caster on a car, or more likely a motorcycle. Keeps the rudder centered when not actively trying to steer.
I wonder if this was 'invented' accidentally .... like someone had to do an angled rudder to fit their new double ender hull design, and it sucked because the boat couldn't hold its course because the rudder always wanted to float up to one side or the other - so when they weighted it(to pull it down and thus unexpectedly straight back) they then discovered that their once squirrelly boat now would auto correct hands free dead ahead - and it became a feature instead of a problem, which a vertical rudder could have neither of
@@BenjaminT.Minkler like a trim tab…. The 25 pounds might be the weight that works best to help hold it at a specific angle when the boat is healed over
I was thinking it was there both for the reason you stated, to overcome the buoyancy of the wood, but also to counterbalance the tiller and help to return it to center when maneuvering at low speed.
Faboo episode. Less talking with a mix of wood and metal craft. Salut !
There is something magical about watching a skilled worker using a chisel. Your work skills is a inspiration to us all Steve.
Thank you for brightening upp our week again
That’s so very kind. Thanks for being on the journey with us! Happy Friday.
Love the rudder ballast being inset rather than just attached to the edge. Smart move in my thoughts as well.
Great job Steve. Fairing should include a smooth and polish on that bronze edge beautifully. Can hardly wait. Coming right along.
Anne & Ben, the sound is most excellent on this. I’m watching on my phone, listening with ear buds. When Steve was working on the rudder, I kept hearing noise coming from the other room. It was on video! Y’all do an outstanding job producing these episodes. Huzzah!
Oh nice! I replication of the video that allowed most of us to find you! Cheers, can’t wait to watch!
Awesome more progress! Keep rolling along Arabella crew! 👍👍
🙌
@@AcornToArabella 👍👍
Good morning from western Australia this morning because I'm at work
Excellent craftsmanship! Regarding the weight on the rudder my explanation is, when the boat is heeled over the lead weight at the edge of the rudder will pull down and therefore counteract weather helm. The boat will feel better on the rudder and it will be easier to steer.
The weight in the rudder is for self-centering. The transom is angled so any rudder deflection causes the weight to be lifted so it’ll tend to want to hang straight.
👍
I’m sure he’s used it numerous times but today was the first instance I noticed Steve using a Yankee screwdriver and what memories it brought back. My dad was a carpenter from the mid 1950s thru the late 1970s. I was routinely on a job site with him on weekends, no school days or in his shop in the evening while he built cabinets. If I saw him once, I saw him a 1000 times setting slotted wood screws with his well worn, Yankee Screwdriver. I never became proficient using it like he was……thanks for creating the flood of wonderful memories.
And thank you for sharing your memories.
That's some skill with the Adze!
Great watching you guys from 3 miles away. Go granby!
My toes curl up every time you guys bring out the adze.
Had to stop the video and comment when I saw old faithful the metal press come out! Made me think of Alex and hope he’s doing well.
We hear he’s doing a-ok! Thanks for watching!
Ahhhh lead...the video that got me to start watching this channel
Great work since then
been watching for a while.Time to finally comment !! Great Work. I miss my old boats.
Very lovely video clip this week. I loved the giant lead pour. That was my first episode.
Got to see a mini-keel pour! Cool!
Been here since attaching the lead to the keel! :)
Concerning the lead in the rudder: The wooden rudder will of course float and with a perfectly vertical turning axis that won't matter because the bronze fixtures will keep it there and turning it to the left or right won't change anything. However if you're not at 90° but the rudder is more or less hanging down from it's fixtures like in the picture, rotating the rudder around those means it's further up. So let's say you turn the rudder 20° to the left, the rudder is a bit closer to the surface than it was when you were steering straight. Now buoyancy will push for the rudder to be even farther up, which means it will push the rudder further to the left until it hits something and can't move further. The most stable position for a rudder like that is with the anchor points underneath it (which of course doesn't work, because there's a boat in the way), unless there's something heavy attached, that keeps it from floating up. So you should really look into how much lead you need because if you use to little, the rudder will move on it's own.
You can try this with a small wooden board in your bath tube. Just hold it at two points along one edge and try to push the board into the water. If the edge you're holding on to is 90° to the water surface, the board will just push up but turning it won't make a difference. If you hold it an angle like we see for Arabella, it will push to either side (unless you can hold it perfectly vertical).
Who knew a rudder would be so complicated!? Now, we all do. Thanks, Steve, for sharing your passion and particularitis with those who appreciate it.
As we say in the description, it’s taken almost all of the skills needed to build the rest of the boat!
@@AcornToArabella Talking about the rudder, when you mentioned the wight I assumed it must serve a similar purpose as counter wight on control surfaces on an airplane to keep them level so you dont have to fight them staying level.
The rudder seems to be tilted backwards so the wight would center it if the rudder now is heavier then the water it displaces.
Due to the rudders angle any movement left or right (yea not marine terms but you get it XD) would elevate the wight a bit, gravity would want to pull it down aka center the rudder.
If you for some reason tilted the rudder forward instead it would probably prefer to go either all left or all right and not stay centered.
Its like when you where a kid and had something that could rotate around a stick but was heavier on one side that stuck out, tilting it back and forth would rotate that thing to what ever direction allowed it to point down.
Also you car should self center if you let go of the wheel due to how the front suspension is set up so I suspect this is the same thing, you want to go strait in your boat and not go in circles when ever your not paying 100% attention to the wheel so to speak.
Anyways my theory but it might not be the correct reason or it could be one of two, as you sad it wanting to float up is probably not desirable ether.
Good luck with the boat!
That Victor lathe is impressive!
It’s really wonderful.
Nice job on the details of the rudder Stephen. Thanks for sharing.
🙌
I love this whole adventure so very much. I'm in awe of the thousands of hours work you have poured into the Arabella. Magnificent!!
Thanks for being here, Roy!
@@AcornToArabella I have been watching from Tasmania on and off since the keel pour. Perhaps one day you will get to the Australian Wooden Boat festival !! It would be amazing to see the Arabella in person.
Steve - Old guy tip: When you have a 5 gallon pail with a bung you can lay the pail on its side with the bung up, and then roll the pail on the bench to begin the pour. Way easier than tipping it to pour.
👍👍
THE ADZ IS BACK!!
🙌🙌🙌
Props to Anne Bryant, the constant shipwright/videowright.
Well shucks. It’s a support role more than anything else. Cheers, Nick. -Anne
@@AcornToArabella Take supports away, everything tumbles down!
Been watching from lead to lead, adze everything in between
Happy Friday 🎉
17:30 Weather helm, the tendency for the boat to turn into the wind, is why the lead is there. Weather helm is desirable (achieved by proper sail trim) for sailing because it means that your keel-rudder combination is producing hydrodynamic lift to windward. As the boat heels over the pressure on the rudder to counter this weather helm would grow proportionally to the heel. The lead is there to compensate for this and adds a steering assist by drawing the rudder to leeward; or downwards while heeled. This will reduce the force required to hold the tiller in the necessary position to produce the desired hydrodynamic lift.
Thanks for another great video.
That shot of the adze coming straight at you... Beautiful AND scary! Bravo.
They’re wonderful edge tools!
I’d sure love to hear the narration that Steve added early on in the build. As an example, you did all that work to fit the hinge, but no description. Thanks!
Good Morning y'all
Happy Friday, Mark!
Adze. It's one of my go-to Scrabble words. Keep up the good work.
28 minutes goes by in a flash and before I know it I am left waiting for another week for the next glimpse at your progress. I guess I am just an Arabella junkie. Thank you for sharing your journey with us.
So glad you’re here and enjoying what we do!
Great.. I learned something new watching your video I'll be using soon..
Super music on this one Ben !
Another little piece of the puzzle...
I too, have been here since the first keel pour.
Love the adze work! It looks like it would be tough on the back though. Steve is obviously skilled with the adze- leaving a very even and pretty smooth cut! I’m afraid I’d leave it a mess!
Just a bit of practice yields good results.
I could watch this build in real time. That's how much I've enjoyed it Steve and the rest of the gang. Just so you know.
Very Nice Job 👍 looking Good
What amazes me most is how you figure out beforehand the best method to translate Aktin's plan measurements on paper to the actual rudder's wood production WITHOUT having to do it completely all over again, like most of us). Just awesome!
Morning 'bella fam! Happy Friday! ☕
Haaaapppy Friday, Ryan!
The gust of wind before the adze was epic. Like the wind did you a favor and got out of the way. Lol. Great job, it will look like a boat more when the rudder goes on. Until Next Friday, 🫡
See ya Friday!
I liked that a lot.
Good morning Akiva and Crew 😸😺
Happy Friday!
@@AcornToArabella 👍😻😸😺
For me one of the most satisfying things to watch is the amazing chisel work. They (Steve, KP, Carolyn) make it look so easy. Love it.
I love that you have a lathe in the shop in the garage !
I believe the lead on the Keel is to keep the keel centered while underway. Without it, the keel will tend to float port or starboard, demanding continuous course correction while underway.
It doesn’t really flop around that much, and few boats have it, but it seems like it might reduce the effects of weather helm for the skipper.
Awesome episode.
1. "Steve's Rudderworks" t-shirt drop please.
2. To the editor. Time-lapse vid with Normal rate tool audio is OUTSTANDING. Such a pleasing effect!
3. Just carry on ALL! Love it! ALL OF IT!
Thanks, dude!
I really like the shot of Steve using the adz while the camera backed away. It’s just a man in the big world making a wooden boat.
@Acorn To Arabella You are right. The lead increases the moment of inertia of the rudder and thereby reduce the change of angular speed of the rudder, mostly by waves would be my guess. Putting the mass further out from the pivot of the rudder increases this effect for the same mass.
Good Job again!
Happy Friday, Graeme!
Part of the joy of watching A2A, is watching Steve & co. muddle through and pick up new skills, like pouring lead. Another part is the things he does that are just superlative, the adze and chain saw work being the top of that list.
Oh, and can we talk about that lathe chucking job? Wow.
Joe is a wizard. We’re so lucky.
Since you have a wooden rudder, which floats and your hinge is tilted, the rudder wants to float up. It will either turn to SB or to PS as a result of this. Now it is balanced and will stay put unless you pull the helm. If you put more lead in it will try to remain centred and the helm will be heavy at larger angles.
It’ll be interesting to see how it feels… I’ve not sailed a boat that has a weighted rudder, and most likely with just 25 lbs, the thing will be neutrally buoyant rather than prone to sink. It’ll be interesting for sure. -Anne
@@AcornToArabella Realise the 25lbs was calculated by Atkins based on volume of the rudder en the specific weight of the wood. By using heavier wood you need less lead and when using lighter wood more lead. More taper less volume of wood, so less lead and so on.
So, I'm not the only one who has problems with a wobbly bench.
Pouring more lead made me miss Alex a little bit... Totally cool how you made the rudder! 👍🏽
Pure ASMR watching Steve carve the slots in rudder for he hinge , great work Steve. You should have the Entire team and even you Anne sign some of the bigger chips from Steves Adze work on the rudder and have them encased in Clear resin and sell them.
Hi Steve, I suppose the lead is to counteract the buoyancy of the rudder to keep the boat steering easier on a very light wind. As the center of buoyancy is lower then the rudder hanging axis the buoyancy will turn the rudder away from the neutral position to a side. So the lead will keep the rudder in amidship position. Best wishes!
Exactly what I was thinking 🙂
In my opinion this weight helps for self steering. I owe a sailing model which steers (due to the same weight on the lower end of the rudder) by it self. The ideal is , in the model , when the boat is heeling over and tends to steer towards the wind the rudder is falling to lee and by so keeping the vessel on course. …. On the model, made from old drawings, this really works. It keeps it course without a remote control on the rudder.
@@marcoheijboer7003 This is very interesting what you say but I am afraid the added weight is not enough to steer the boat but just good to make the rudder neutral. When the boat heels much (on gusts for instance) the straightning moment is so great so to keep the boat on course you have to apply a great force on the rudder. This is dozens of kilos (on rudder not on tiler). Under the water everything is getting lighter so to steer the boat the way you say it would require double weight. So my point is the influence of the rudder weight is a tiny bit compare to the forces that are in place and that keeps the boat balanced.
So the main force that pulls the boat away from the wind comes form the balanced sails when the center of the sails forces is upfront the center of the boat mass. And this is the great force.
Love the adze work. Learning.
The machine lathing @ 8:00 is the craziest thing I've seen in 3yrs of following this project. Master craftsman artisan. Amazing.
Joe is so experienced and wonderful-we’re grateful for him!
You are correct. The weight will pull the rudder down to zero degrees. The higher the lead moves up towards the surface the more weight resistance there is. If you let go of the tiller, the rudder tends towards the centerline of the keel. When heeling over, the weight helps to stabilize the rudder's tendency to float.
Arabella is looking great.
Thanks, James!
Great work as always guys, and a big thank you for keeping it clean for all audiences!
Arabella is certainly being built to last, I love that. 100 years from now the then owner will have a rich resource in these detailed video "documents." That rudder is coming along nicely - Forward!
I suppose that the added lead weight would naturally *return the rudder to center* ; by pulling it down, which is also straight back because the rudder hangs down at an angle vs being vertical perfectly upright .... interesting that this problem(that otherwise without the weight would float up, steering to one side or the other) now becomes a feature! and one that would not be an option on a vertical rudder which could not have an auto correct to return to center even if it was weighted(because that would only pivot perfectly left and right, not also up and down some without being angled under the boat like this one) pretty neat!
TY
I pride myself on being a good woodworker but you people are awesome. I have watched from close to the beginning and find inspiration in most every video. Keep up the great work. There will be great joy and sadness when this project is over. Thank you !!!
Another too quickly ended video! Wonderful cam work, great music and great work with the adze! Next week's edition can't come too soon! Stay well and stay safe!
Looking at the geometry on the plans there could be a self centering component with the lead also a counterbalance when healed over making it lighter or more manageable on the tiller. Interesting design, and probably tunable to the pilots preference.
May never see this comment but… if you put the 5 gallon bucket in the intro horizontally on the bench and then just roll it a bit till the oil comes out then back up when your done. Easy trick I learned awhile ago 👍
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Jim 922 from Arkansas, I have been watching from the beginning. Every week I am just in awe with the progress on the project. Something new every week and Steve is always up to the challenge. I Love this episode.ps and a hardy hello to all the crew working behind the scenes in the boat house.
Cheers, Jim! Thank you!
i really hope steve ENJOYS sailing. being stuck on a small boat in the ocean is way different than being a woodworker on a boat. all the skills of the last 4yrs (and there are many) and suddenly he will stop to sail
I think he gets that they’re different. In fact, he’s looking forward to it with gusto. -Anne
I love hearing your thought process 😀
I've never used an adz, but you make it look so easy. I couldn't imagine wielding such a tool on something I had spent so much time to initially put together. I have always enjoyed watching the skill with which you work.
It’s a little easier than it looks. The tool is made to be controlled well. Ancient and wonderful.
can confirm. With weight the neutral position for the rudder is straight aft. Without weight the rudder would turn leeward as the boat heels.
12:00, I am glad Steve knows what he’s doing! I was worried about getting an adze in the forehead.
Ha!
What a great way to start a Friday morning. The rudder is amazing, the bronze weight nicely done. Stephen wields a mean adze. Thanks guys and Ben
FYI, placing the 5gallon bucket on a flat surface with the bung at 12 o’clock, ensuring the handle is out of the way. It’s possible to just roll the bucket in either direction to facilitate a good pour allowing air inside to stop the glugging. Simply rolling the bucket back will stop the flow giving you much more control.
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I've been a carpenter for 50 years and it was so nice to see you using a traditional hand router to bottom out the housings. I made one early in my career out of a piece of oak beam from a seventeenth century house we were renovating and used it a lot till power routers took over. I've been following your progress almost since the start and just love what you are creating!
Cheers, Steve! Glad you’re on the journey with us!
Really enjoyed both the content and the style/format of this video. Seeing the lathe in use brought back memories of when you were collecting all of those machines. Good times!
The weight in the rudder helps holding the rudder straight. Because the angle of the the rudder hangs on the boat, and the wood wanting to float, that will make the natural state of the rudder to be folded upwards. Making you sail in circles when not actively holding the rudder.
The lead on the rudder will keep the rudder hanging down and thus straight. Helping you with steering in a straight line. it's basically using gravity as a spring to center the rudder. Or like how the geometry of a bicycle front wheel fork helps keep the wheel in front, and allows you to steer by pure balance.
Very cool addition to the rudder Steve! Great work.
This rudder is amazing. I especially liked seeing your tapered circular saw jig. I don't know where I can use it, but I will think on it and design something I can taper like that. Thanks for sharing.
Sweet spot on the Today program.
My weekly oasis of sanity. Thank you Team for another absolutely top knotch episode. Keep on rocking.
Another great video. You guys knocked it out of the park. My Friday night is complete, I bid you good night.
Nice use of teasers at the end of vids, congrats on the Sunday morning news piece, it’s gotta be validating to get the recognition!
We’re grateful!
Extremely satisfying episode. Steve you are a genius. Camera work was expectational. Can you comment on when you are going to take some sailing lessons?
When we launch, Steve’s first sail will be aboard Arabella and he’ll learn on her and in Victoria the dinghy with friends.
I think the lead is a bit of both flotation and gravity, because the rudder hangs down (as opposed to the vertical rudders), i think the lead helps to keep the rudder centralised.
I was thinking the same thing