Thanks for your continuing efforts in demonstrating shop technique Lyle, I did use dry ice once or twice in my working career for fitting bearings, but much more frequently used an oil bath heater, and later induction heaters to expand bearings to fit them to shafts. Once when on a mining machine repair, we had our electric oil bath heater but no power to run it as we were in the field. We used oxy acetylene to heat the oil bath but when we took the 8" or thereabouts bearing from the oil it had been blued by excess heat. We disposed of that bearing and got another new replacement, but when we had a visit from a Timken rep several months later, he told us that it would have only marginally reduced the life of the blued bearing, and that we could have used it. Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Another fabulous Tubalcain tutorial. When I"m preparing to install bearings, I try to get them in the freezer the night before. Sometimes when I forget and the part is small enough I've tossed the casting into a bucket of hot water.
I'm so young only 16, i've probably learned more from your videos than any class at school, auto, construction, tech design..... I love your content. Fantastic work
Great fun video Mr P. Looking forward to others in this series. Like you I had a great Dad I had a great respect for him - My job today is put a pic in my workshop of him. I never realised how much I had learned from him until years latter when people would say "How do you know all this odd stuff?" from my great old school dad of course is the answer. Kind Regards Garry UK (The English Bit)
Thanks for keeping these older videos available--I need to do this and needed to know how much tolerance there should be between the bearing and the housing.
How did we ever survive childhood. We played with Hg, and pocket knives, had no seat belts, rode on the tailgates of pickups, etc. One of the few things I had never done. The main problem we had in shop class was undersized shafts, so we knurled them and then installed the bearings. Great video.
I never used dry ice before. I remember my Dad showing me how to shrink a crankshaft in the freezer and letting the bearing sit in the summer sun in the driveway. It worked well too. I once machined a chuck backing plate and it would not star4t into the chuck. So into the freezer it went and the chuck lay in the sun. After about 30 minuets the two went right together. Thanks for sharing.
MR. PETE, I HAD TO LEARN YOUR PROCEDURE WHEN PUTTING A GEAR ON THE AXLE HUB OF A JOHN DEERE CRAWLER. I WAS AMAZED AT IT THEN. WHEN I PUT THE GEAR ON THE AXLE HUB IT FELL RIGHT THROUGH. BY HOLDING IT IN POSITION FOR A FEW MINUTES IT WAS THERE. IT STILL AMAZES ME.
Great stuff, you never fail to entertain and educate. Thanks. You remind me of a shop teacher I had in high school. He was funny, smart, taught those of us who were willing much, and was a kind man.
Years ago I worked with liquid nitrogen cooling systems in frozen food trailers, I saw two different men get burned badly with it when they skipped wearing appropriate basic safety clothing, gloves and face shields. Horrible burns and one lost an eye as well. Like any tool it must be treated with respect and it will do a great job. Love the videos, thank you
Thanks for making this very useful video, Mr Pete. It will come in handy this very weekend fixing an old cast iron trailer wheel hub as I need to remove the bearing before I fix the broken casting and re-insert the stud bolts. My mate tried inserting the stud bolts and cracked the casting further.
I had no access to dry ice so what I used is LPG, I had a hose hooked up directly to a 2 kg cylinder and would turn it up side down and slowly trickle the liquid gas over the bearing and in short order the bearing was very cold, then picking up with gloves drop it into the housing this works very well but attention must be drawn to avoiding open flames and sources of ignition, I have used this many times and it works well, the vapour from the gas disperses in a few seconds with a nice breeze. I would not recommend this method to anybody these days as there are too many people looking for a shortcut too suing somebody. lol.
That method is extremely destructive to the atmosphere. Free hydrocarbons in the atmosphere produce smog. It's the reason why all of our modern gasoline cars and trucks are built with an evaporative emissions system that stores gasoline vapors in a charcoal canister for burning later while the engine is running.
When installing ball joints and a shop I worked at years ago, we would freeze the ball joint and heat the control arm on the vehicle. The ball joints would simply slide right in. Other wise you would have to use a pneumatic impact driver to take them out and put them in. Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Great video to watch while eating my oatmeal this morning. Another great use of dry ice is a sub-zero quench after normal heat-treatment when I make knives (certain steels only). Always educational, and always entertaining. Thanks again, Mr. Pete!
Hi Lyle, Very good. I have to keep explaining to people putting things into the freezer will hardly make any difference. We used to use liquid nitrogen as you mentioned. Dry ice is much better than the freezer and as you have demonstrated, does work. Expansion of steel is about 6.5x10^-6 in/inch F which is 6.5 micro inches per inch for every degreeF. so your 2" bearing will shrink about 1300 micro inches whch is about 1.3 Thou, and this would make a difference. With ring gears we used to allow 1.25 thou per inch of diameter. Easy rule of thumb. and used to heat them with a torch and used oil to determine the temperature so when the oil would sustain combustion it was hot enough. Crude but it worked. Liquid nitrogen was used for valve guides. Just protects the parts so it does not get bruised by using force. Allister
Thumbs up! I use to put the inner part, whether is a bearing or any other part that needs to be press fitted, in the freezer, and the outer part in the oven. That way allows you to reach a better differential between the parts, and the fit is more tight.
I once had to fit a timing gear to a crank on a motorcycle engine. It was purely an interference fit, no key alignment or bolt compression to hold it on. I used the reverse of this, I waited till I knew there was a really cold night coming (-9c) and left the bike at the doorway to the garage. The factory method was to press the gear on with a huge press, not convenient in situ. Next morning at 6am, bike nice and cold soaked, came out, heated the gear with a propane torch till the oil smoked off it, then slid it on. The clearance was initially so great, the gear could be lightly rattled on the crank! You could also make mention of the excellent thermal expansion properties of aluminium (especially compared to steel), that bearing could be dropped into that casting if you heated the casting up just a little as well. Knowledge of these things helps solve problems!
I did this some years ago, to insert the input shaft bearing into the cast iron gearbox of a '73 Triumph. I didn't have dry ice. I just wrapped the input shaft in newspaper and stuck it in Her Royal Highness's freezer. I put the gearbox in the oven (it was a small car) at 300F (and boy did that stink!). After an hour, the room temperature bearing slipped onto the input shaft with no interference and the assembly into the gearbox just as easily.
Great demo Mr Pete. I saw a cool (hot) video of them installing the flanged wheels on the drivers of an old steam locomotive years ago using heat. Amazing what we used to know how to do :( .
Hello, Mr. pete. I thought that you would be interested to know that I once worked for a foundry ( as a driver) and one of my jobs was to occasionally go for some boxes of dry ice, in "styrene" boxes. The dry ice that they used in the foundry/machine shop, was pelletized and it is my time working for the foundry that got me interested in machine shop work, as I used to go into every section of the foundry and machine shop as part of my job. Incidentally, one of the products that they used to make was the big dragline buckets, as used in open cut coal mines and spare parts, such as the lip with the digging points and the individual points themselves, also ripper shanks, ( for opening up trenches).
I remember as a child my dad cutting a V notch into dry ice, then placing a quarter into it. The coin would oscillate from side to side, and kind of ring like a bell.
Great video. My dad does hobby farming, mostly messing around with tractors, haying equipment, and such and has always had problems with parts that need to be heated before a bearing can be installed. This would be much easier for him!
Cool! I never thought of using dry ice. I use this process putting the part in fridge and slightly heating part to expand. Learned it 50 years ago installing starter rings on flywheels. Russ
I use dry ice fairly often. we have a machine at the plant which sprays dry ice like a sand blaster for cleaning machinery. works awesome and the only mess is the stuff that was on the machine is now on the floor to be swept up. You can pick up dry ice but you have to keep rolling it around in your hand so it doesn't sit in one spot for more than a second or two.
Common method in aviation also. We would heat a large roller bearing in oil and then slide it over a long shaft in jet engines. I understand that the very large bolts used to attach the wings to the fuselage in large airplanes are shrunk before installion. Great video - as always.
You make great videos. I work in the aviation industry and we freeze shrink all sorts of Bushings and some Bearings. Some large bushing with up to 0.015" interference left a few minutes in liquid Nitrogen they fall into their bore.
Thanks tubulcain. The convenient aerosol can product "freeze off" by CRC is very effective at cooling parts down too, and very rapidly. I'm sure there are other brands that do a similar product too.
Cool video, I've used dry ice many times in the machine shops I worked in. Sometimes, if we had the time we would use the freezer in the break room. When Liquid Nitrogen became readily available and affordable, we switched over to that. We would use Liquid Nitrogen to replace the air-frame bushings for the landing gear on the F-16.
Great video!!! you also could have applied heat to the casting to shorten your wait time as the bearing was cooling- on a side note I was also in the entertainment business ( Sound and special effects for local bands) I built a "Fog machine" from a small metal trash can, hot water heating element. small squirrel cage blower mounted to the top and a drier vent hose to the side of the can to direct the fog. Heat the water add dry ice (I used a milk crate on chains up thru the top of the trash can so it could be lowered into the hot water when needed) & turn on the blower- HUGE amount of "Fog" would slowly creep out onto & fill up the stage to about knee height the crowed LOVED IT!!! there are a few more details to building one but that's the main idea - Two thumbs up mrpete !!!!
yeah good one, I used it to remove broken off sparkplug in aluminium head .froze an xzn bit and tapped it in.put it the freezer though.didn't know about dry ice, very good tip. thanks. goedendag
Same method is used on aircraft landing gear, where the shaft is shrink fitted onto the landing gear casting, using a combination of liquid nitrogen for the shaft, and an oven for the casting, then put together using a hydraulic press. You only get one chance to do it right, so have to prepare and check everything before, and do it all in seconds once you start the ram. Removal of the shaft is easy, you put it in a mill and use a boring bar to cut it out of the casting. Once you get to the collapse point you just need a new boring bar or you have quick reflexes.
+SeanBZA Aircraft (reciprocating engine) cylinder heads as well. The aluminum heads are heated and the steel cylinders chilled; then quickly aligned & screwed together in a special device. An otherwise serviceable cylinder can later get a new head if necessary, but the old head must be cut off.
Good job brother, Like that you took measurements at the end. Would have been really interesting to have taken before and after measurements of the same bearing (room temp vs frozen) measurements, but I realize they have charts and stuff for this knowledge. Great Job again brother and thanks for all the good videos you put your time too. well appreciated. Mike S.
Driving the bearing into the housing,(especially an aluminium one) will cause problems with size fits, always use this method when replacing a bearing in a housing, or warm the casting, it is easier than using dry ice.
Interesting demo.... You could get dry ice at compressed gas suppliers, like welding gases, if there is something close to your location... I'd be curious to know why some people will give us thumbs down, instead of putting a constructive comment on how we could improve the content or even just mention what they didn't like... Not that it matters so much, cause most of those people probably have nothing interesting in their lives...... ;)
The local supply sources for me are a disco outfitters, and a stage outfitters. Dry ice is used for fog effects in both cases, and they can obtain it readily. For small bearings, you could try the wart freeze spray obtainable from chemists - the cooling effect may be sufficient to do the trick. Also worth trying is a deep freeze for the bearing, and a warm oven for the casting (obviously not if there are low temperature inserts in the casting) - the expansion rates are a little different but enough differential temperature should work.
You mentioned using a BEARING MOUNT for an OLD CASTING that was too large for the new bearing. I never heard of this before and I would like to see you add that to the videos on bearings.
I remember well the first time I did this, only I put the bearing in the freezer overnight and gearbox casing in a low oven. It was amazingly satisfying when the new bearing dropped in and even rattled a bit whereas the old one had to be driven out. Edit. Pro tip: Make sure it's the right way round. BTDT.
Hi Mr Pete Long time fan of yours always waiting for your next video so I can gain just a little bit more knowledge keep up the great work Regards Kerry
I've had to use the reverse and heat up the mating part to remove a trreading gauge that got stuck. We also used ice on the gauge at the same time. It took some time but we got it out. :) This was a large oil-field threaded connection on a 12-in diameter tool called a drill collar, used above the bit, to add weight to the bit, when drilling an oil or gas well.
If you don't have access to dry ice, you can heat up the aluminum casting to about 250F and have the bearing in the freezer. I use a welding rod oven set to around 300 and out motorcycle cases in. Within about 10-15 minutes I hear the bearing fall out as the aluminum expands much more than the steel does.
I had to freeze a piston in a brake caliper for a 1980 Ford Farmount to get it out of the casting. I just put the whole thing in the freezer over night, and it fell out with a gentle tap the next day. I fought with it for 4,5,6, maybe 7 hours the day before. The shop I paid to rebuild the calipers cheated me. They charged me $1300 to rebuild the calipers, but they could not get that piston out so they only did one side. That was the last time I trusted anyone with the brakes on my car.
Hi, I like your videos, an observation. The vapors coming out of the glass jar when you drop the dry ice is not water, it is the CO2 transforming from solid to gas state without going to to liquid state, known as sublimation
Mr. Pete, I succeed placing the bearings most of the time by putting the bearing into the Freezer for a couple of hours. But nevertheless nice vid. Love your vids.
it's a previligiate way to install bearings. besides, heating the housing is another way to do the assembly. a combination of heat and cold is the best way to proceed
If you fit a bearing just .001" into a bore, you will need to use a hydraulic press to remove it. If you heat up a bore to insert a bearing and the bore is too small (about .010" smaller) it wont spin. Fitting bearings is engineering calculated. Not too big, not too small. I spent more than 20 years dealing with that. Shrink and expansion are very precise. When you cut a piece of wood you can use a tape measure to measure it, to measure a diameter of metal bore or shaft you must use the right tool.
Too bad no old school shop teachers anymore. not everyone needs to go to college. But, that notwithstanding, guys need to know how to diagnose and fix things. Great job, Lyle Jim
Very minor correction that's not water vapor coming off the jar, "When dry ice is added to water, it sublimes to carbon dioxide gas rapidly because the solution's temperature is warmer than the dry ice (-78.5 C° or -109.3 F°). This gas can be observed as bubbles or clouds above the solution."
My dad had an automotive repair facility and when he had to replace valve seats he would freeze them in the freezer over night and drop them into the head or the block of the old flat head engines.
Hi Lyall, as I earlier explained to Adam booth, here in the UK, we use the Isle Of Wight method to measure bearings, o rings and seals....Indside,Outside and Width....hence, IOW, ...just a useless bit of info. Regards. Rich.
IF you get a chance do a video on the clearances needed for fits and how to find the information I remember from show there is a method and reason to this madness but forgot what its called to search for it
DO NOT ADD ANY MUSIC TO YOUR VIDEOS. EVER. It'd be appalling. You have the most endearing and elegant old American voice and idium. And the silences on your video are, well, golden.
+mrpete222 Thanks again for this video. I did use it on my backing plate for my 3 jaw chuck. I used .003" interference fit. I put the back plate in my freezer for 6 hours, pulled it out and it dropped right into the chuck.
I'm from the UK and hadn't heard the term "cardice" before. It seems it's a brand-name, so it's probably referred to as that more in industry than by individuals.
I'm doing sealed bearings on dolly wheels very soon . very timely. Will I need to regrease them after words? if so what is good to use( they are a high speed bearing) thanks. I don't machine but have all ways been interested. I was in a shop a few years back and the old timer there wasn't interested in teaching any more. I guess it wasn't my time. keep up with the videos and thank you for what you do
We had vats of liquid nitrogen at Air Research AKA Allied Signal now Honeywell, and the main products were APUs (jet engine starters), and jet, turbo prop, and turbine engines were kind of secondary. Now the main thing is turbine engines, for the Chinook helicopter. I had a piston seize into a brake caliper, and got it out by throwing the caliper in the freezer over night. I put a screwdriver into the dust boot ring, tapped it once and the piston fell out. The day before, I beat, & twisted & cursed, and pounded, and cursed some more. The crooks at the garage could not get that piston out either, but they still charged me $300 to rebuild the caliper, despite the fact they did not actually do any of the work. I am sure they tried, but some days being smart beats being strong. That incident started me buying tools and fixing my own stuff. 33 years later I don't even want to know what it would cost to replace my tools. The knowledge is something no one can steal from me, except maybe old age and dementia.
A word of caution to your viewers: In the past, I've used dry ice/acetone baths for cooling traps in vacuum systems (Chemistry) and other applications. The problem arises in that copious quantities of CO₂ will dissolve into acetone −78.5 °C (Henry's Law). If you then plunge a room temperature object into the bath (e.g. a thermometer), it will immediately raise the temperature, causing CO₂ gas to come out of solution. The gas bubbles churn the solution, accelerating the degassing. A geyser of dangerously cold and flammable acetone is the result. I once had this happen in my kitchen on a particularly cold winter day. Needless to say, having to open all windows, extinguish all pilot lights and potential ignition sources, and air out the house for hours was no picnic! If you must submerge an object in such a bath, do so with extreme care. Pre-chill it if possible, and immerse it in the bath as slowly as you can. P.S. You could have just looked up "dry ice" in the phone book. Remember those? :P
+mrpete222 I haven't heard of the bearing mount you spoke of at the end of the video. Something about taking care of a problem where the bearing outer shell would spin in the bore? Could you tell us about that in another video?
Does the effect.of cold work on the opposite instrument that you showed the thermo expansion demonstration? I'm sure it does, but didn't know if the aluminum would shrink that much. also when I sleeve a bearing or race over a shaft, I heat the bearing.or race in oil to give it a more even heating.and less likely to over heat and damage or weaken one side more.than the other.
Could you use the dry ice to remove a bearing as well? Would the heat transfer from the bearing to the ice quicker then the heat form the casing to the bearing? I have a 50mm tapered roller bearing and the outer race is a press fit to the iron casing. Do you think it would work to jam a piece of dry ice on the inside of the race, possibly apply little heat to the casing beforehand and quickly tap the race out? There is only a small lip upon which I could tap or use a press so even getting the race to be slightly smaller would help. Thanks for all your videos, I like them very much.
Have often done this with heavy equipment especially bulldozer final drives, use heat and nitrogen or dry ice in conjunction with each other sometimes due to larger interferences. One thing that has always bugged me physcally-why when something expands under heat let's say a bearing, does it only expand outwards and bit in all directions, you would thing it would expand evenly both direction's, I know.it doesent but it has always bugged me lol.
Thanks for your continuing efforts in demonstrating shop technique Lyle, I did use dry ice once or twice in my working career for fitting bearings, but much more frequently used an oil bath heater, and later induction heaters to expand bearings to fit them to shafts. Once when on a mining machine repair, we had our electric oil bath heater but no power to run it as we were in the field. We used oxy acetylene to heat the oil bath but when we took the 8" or thereabouts bearing from the oil it had been blued by excess heat. We disposed of that bearing and got another new replacement, but when we had a visit from a Timken rep several months later, he told us that it would have only marginally reduced the life of the blued bearing, and that we could have used it. Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Another fabulous Tubalcain tutorial. When I"m preparing to install bearings, I try to get them in the freezer the night before. Sometimes when I forget and the part is small enough I've tossed the casting into a bucket of hot water.
You're the teacher that I never had. Thank you.
I'm so young only 16, i've probably learned more from your videos than any class at school, auto, construction, tech design..... I love your content. Fantastic work
+Derek Ludwig Thanks-tell your friends to watch
Great fun video Mr P. Looking forward to others in this series. Like you I had a great Dad I had a great respect for him - My job today is put a pic in my workshop of him. I never realised how much I had learned from him until years latter when people would say "How do you know all this odd stuff?" from my great old school dad of course is the answer. Kind Regards Garry UK (The English Bit)
+garry hammond We had great dads
Thanks for keeping these older videos available--I need to do this and needed to know how much tolerance there should be between the bearing and the housing.
How did we ever survive childhood. We played with Hg, and pocket knives, had no seat belts, rode on the tailgates of pickups, etc. One of the few things I had never done. The main problem we had in shop class was undersized shafts, so we knurled them and then installed the bearings. Great video.
I never used dry ice before. I remember my Dad showing me how to shrink a crankshaft in the freezer and letting the bearing sit in the summer sun in the driveway. It worked well too. I once machined a chuck backing plate and it would not star4t into the chuck. So into the freezer it went and the chuck lay in the sun. After about 30 minuets the two went right together. Thanks for sharing.
MR. PETE, I HAD TO LEARN YOUR PROCEDURE WHEN PUTTING A GEAR ON THE AXLE HUB OF A JOHN DEERE CRAWLER. I WAS AMAZED AT IT THEN. WHEN I PUT THE GEAR ON THE AXLE HUB IT FELL RIGHT THROUGH. BY HOLDING IT IN POSITION FOR A FEW MINUTES IT WAS THERE. IT STILL AMAZES ME.
+ROBERT HORNER It is amazing!
You're videos are awesome! I am a shop teacher myself and I get inspiration from your videos to help my own students. You're the best!
Great stuff, you never fail to entertain and educate. Thanks. You remind me of a shop teacher I had in high school. He was funny, smart, taught those of us who were willing much, and was a kind man.
Years ago I worked with liquid nitrogen cooling systems in frozen food trailers, I saw two different men get burned badly with it when they skipped wearing appropriate basic safety clothing, gloves and face shields. Horrible burns and one lost an eye as well. Like any tool it must be treated with respect and it will do a great job. Love the videos, thank you
Thanks for making this very useful video, Mr Pete. It will come in handy this very weekend fixing an old cast iron trailer wheel hub as I need to remove the bearing before I fix the broken casting and re-insert the stud bolts. My mate tried inserting the stud bolts and cracked the casting further.
I love your videos, thank you sir.
I had no access to dry ice so what I used is LPG, I had a hose hooked up directly to a 2 kg cylinder and would turn it up side down and slowly trickle the liquid gas over the bearing and in short order the bearing was very cold, then picking up with gloves drop it into the housing this works very well but attention must be drawn to avoiding open flames and sources of ignition, I have used this many times and it works well, the vapour from the gas disperses in a few seconds with a nice breeze. I would not recommend this method to anybody these days as there are too many people looking for a shortcut too suing somebody. lol.
That method is extremely destructive to the atmosphere. Free hydrocarbons in the atmosphere produce smog. It's the reason why all of our modern gasoline cars and trucks are built with an evaporative emissions system that stores gasoline vapors in a charcoal canister for burning later while the engine is running.
When installing ball joints and a shop I worked at years ago, we would freeze the ball joint and heat the control arm on the vehicle. The ball joints would simply slide right in. Other wise you would have to use a pneumatic impact driver to take them out and put them in. Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Great video to watch while eating my oatmeal this morning. Another great use of dry ice is a sub-zero quench after normal heat-treatment when I make knives (certain steels only). Always educational, and always entertaining. Thanks again, Mr. Pete!
Hi Lyle,
Very good. I have to keep explaining to people putting things into the freezer will hardly make any difference. We used to use liquid nitrogen as you mentioned. Dry ice is much better than the freezer and as you have demonstrated, does work. Expansion of steel is about 6.5x10^-6 in/inch F which is 6.5 micro inches per inch for every degreeF. so your 2" bearing will shrink about 1300 micro inches whch is about 1.3 Thou, and this would make a difference. With ring gears we used to allow 1.25 thou per inch of diameter. Easy rule of thumb. and used to heat them with a torch and used oil to determine the temperature so when the oil would sustain combustion it was hot enough. Crude but it worked. Liquid nitrogen was used for valve guides. Just protects the parts so it does not get bruised by using force.
Allister
Thumbs up! I use to put the inner part, whether is a bearing or any other part that needs to be press fitted, in the freezer, and the outer part in the oven. That way allows you to reach a better differential between the parts, and the fit is more tight.
Yes I've used a conventional oven (200C) and a normal freezer (-30C) to do this to achieve a light press fit without a press.
Thank you Mr. Peterson. Another great video. You are my favorite you tube teacher. Your awesome!
Mr. Pete, always interesting, always informative backed-up with appropriate terminology. Keep them coming young man!
From solid to gas, without going through liquid state. Give me a gold star Mr. Pete. Holy mothballs Batman!
your father sounds like my grandfather, he was a machinist and draftsman, he taught me a lot.
I once had to fit a timing gear to a crank on a motorcycle engine. It was purely an interference fit, no key alignment or bolt compression to hold it on.
I used the reverse of this, I waited till I knew there was a really cold night coming (-9c) and left the bike at the doorway to the garage. The factory method was to press the gear on with a huge press, not convenient in situ.
Next morning at 6am, bike nice and cold soaked, came out, heated the gear with a propane torch till the oil smoked off it, then slid it on. The clearance was initially so great, the gear could be lightly rattled on the crank!
You could also make mention of the excellent thermal expansion properties of aluminium (especially compared to steel), that bearing could be dropped into that casting if you heated the casting up just a little as well.
Knowledge of these things helps solve problems!
Fantastic ! I have need of this, as I am replacing/changing bearings in my wheelchair wheels. Thanks !
I did this some years ago, to insert the input shaft bearing into the cast iron gearbox of a '73 Triumph. I didn't have dry ice. I just wrapped the input shaft in newspaper and stuck it in Her Royal Highness's freezer. I put the gearbox in the oven (it was a small car) at 300F (and boy did that stink!). After an hour, the room temperature bearing slipped onto the input shaft with no interference and the assembly into the gearbox just as easily.
Great demo Mr Pete. I saw a cool (hot) video of them installing the flanged wheels on the drivers of an old steam locomotive years ago using heat. Amazing what we used to know how to do :( .
Hello, Mr. pete. I thought that you would be interested to know that I once worked for a foundry ( as a driver) and one of my jobs was to occasionally go for some boxes of dry ice, in "styrene" boxes.
The dry ice that they used in the foundry/machine shop, was pelletized and it is my time working for the foundry that got me interested in machine shop work, as I used to go into every section of the foundry and machine shop as part of my job.
Incidentally, one of the products that they used to make was the big dragline buckets, as used in open cut coal mines and spare parts, such as the lip with the digging points and the individual points themselves, also ripper shanks, ( for opening up trenches).
I remember as a child my dad cutting a V notch into dry ice, then placing a quarter into it. The coin would oscillate from side to side, and kind of ring like a bell.
Great video. My dad does hobby farming, mostly messing around with tractors, haying equipment, and such and has always had problems with parts that need to be heated before a bearing can be installed. This would be much easier for him!
Cool! I never thought of using dry ice. I use this process putting the part in fridge and slightly heating part to expand. Learned it 50 years ago installing starter rings on flywheels. Russ
I use dry ice fairly often. we have a machine at the plant which sprays dry ice like a sand blaster for cleaning machinery. works awesome and the only mess is the stuff that was on the machine is now on the floor to be swept up. You can pick up dry ice but you have to keep rolling it around in your hand so it doesn't sit in one spot for more than a second or two.
Common method in aviation also. We would heat a large roller bearing in oil and then slide it over a long shaft in jet engines. I understand that the very large bolts used to attach the wings to the fuselage in large airplanes are shrunk before installion.
Great video - as always.
Thank you for educating us MrPete. Always interesting videos, and nice to hear you talk about your dad.
You make great videos. I work in the aviation industry and we freeze shrink all sorts of Bushings and some Bearings. Some large bushing with up to 0.015" interference left a few minutes in liquid Nitrogen they fall into their bore.
+Charlie Pace Thanks for watching
Always informative and entertaining Mr. Pete.
Thanks tubulcain. The convenient aerosol can product "freeze off" by CRC is very effective at cooling parts down too, and very rapidly. I'm sure there are other brands that do a similar product too.
Cool video, I've used dry ice many times in the machine shops I worked in. Sometimes, if we had the time we would use the freezer in the break room. When Liquid Nitrogen became readily available and affordable, we switched over to that. We would use Liquid Nitrogen to replace the air-frame bushings for the landing gear on the F-16.
Great video!!! you also could have applied heat to the casting to shorten your wait time as the bearing was cooling- on a side note I was also in the entertainment business ( Sound and special effects for local bands) I built a "Fog machine" from a small metal trash can, hot water heating element. small squirrel cage blower mounted to the top and a drier vent hose to the side of the can to direct the fog. Heat the water add dry ice (I used a milk crate on chains up thru the top of the trash can so it could be lowered into the hot water when needed) & turn on the blower- HUGE amount of "Fog" would slowly creep out onto & fill up the stage to about knee height the crowed LOVED IT!!! there are a few more details to building one but that's the main idea - Two thumbs up mrpete !!!!
yeah good one, I used it to remove broken off sparkplug in aluminium head .froze an xzn bit and tapped it in.put it the freezer though.didn't know about dry ice, very good tip. thanks. goedendag
Growing up with a dad like yers must of been a blast
Same method is used on aircraft landing gear, where the shaft is shrink fitted onto the landing gear casting, using a combination of liquid nitrogen for the shaft, and an oven for the casting, then put together using a hydraulic press. You only get one chance to do it right, so have to prepare and check everything before, and do it all in seconds once you start the ram.
Removal of the shaft is easy, you put it in a mill and use a boring bar to cut it out of the casting. Once you get to the collapse point you just need a new boring bar or you have quick reflexes.
+SeanBZA Aircraft (reciprocating engine) cylinder heads as well. The aluminum heads are heated and the steel cylinders chilled; then quickly aligned & screwed together in a special device. An otherwise serviceable cylinder can later get a new head if necessary, but the old head must be cut off.
Good job brother, Like that you took measurements at the end. Would have been really interesting to have taken before and after measurements of the same bearing (room temp vs frozen) measurements, but I realize they have charts and stuff for this knowledge. Great Job again brother and thanks for all the good videos you put your time too. well appreciated.
Mike S.
Driving the bearing into the housing,(especially an aluminium one) will cause problems with size fits, always use this method when replacing a bearing in a housing, or warm the casting, it is easier than using dry ice.
Interesting demo....
You could get dry ice at compressed gas suppliers, like welding gases, if there is something close to your location...
I'd be curious to know why some people will give us thumbs down, instead of putting a constructive comment on how we could improve the content or even just mention what they didn't like...
Not that it matters so much, cause most of those people probably have nothing interesting in their lives...... ;)
+pierre beaudry That thumb down was because that person is an idiot
SuperAceuno1
Also my opinion, said in different words... ;)
The local supply sources for me are a disco outfitters, and a stage outfitters. Dry ice is used for fog effects in both cases, and they can obtain it readily. For small bearings, you could try the wart freeze spray obtainable from chemists - the cooling effect may be sufficient to do the trick. Also worth trying is a deep freeze for the bearing, and a warm oven for the casting (obviously not if there are low temperature inserts in the casting) - the expansion rates are a little different but enough differential temperature should work.
Amazing and useful video well worth being placed on youtube for education and enjoyment thank you Norman🌊
👍👍
You mentioned using a BEARING MOUNT for an OLD CASTING that was too large for the new bearing. I never heard of this before and I would like to see you add that to the videos on bearings.
The set I remember was made out of BRASS...and it was necessary to heat the RING to enable the ball to pass through it.
I remember well the first time I did this, only I put the bearing in the freezer overnight and gearbox casing in a low oven. It was amazingly satisfying when the new bearing dropped in and even rattled a bit whereas the old one had to be driven out.
Edit. Pro tip: Make sure it's the right way round. BTDT.
+Graham Langley thanks--I do that in upcoming #299
Hi Mr Pete
Long time fan of yours always waiting for your next video so I can gain just a little bit more knowledge keep up the great work
Regards Kerry
I've had to use the reverse and heat up the mating part to remove a trreading gauge that got stuck. We also used ice on the gauge at the same time. It took some time but we got it out. :) This was a large oil-field threaded connection on a 12-in diameter tool called a drill collar, used above the bit, to add weight to the bit, when drilling an oil or gas well.
Another excellent "how to" video. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
The same thing works on outsides too but it takes heat, you can drop a flywheel ring right on with a bit of light torching.
If you don't have access to dry ice, you can heat up the aluminum casting to about 250F and have the bearing in the freezer.
I use a welding rod oven set to around 300 and out motorcycle cases in. Within about 10-15 minutes I hear the bearing fall out as the aluminum expands much more than the steel does.
I had to freeze a piston in a brake caliper for a 1980 Ford Farmount to get it out of the casting. I just put the whole thing in the freezer over night, and it fell out with a gentle tap the next day. I fought with it for 4,5,6, maybe 7 hours the day before. The shop I paid to rebuild the calipers cheated me. They charged me $1300 to rebuild the calipers, but they could not get that piston out so they only did one side. That was the last time I trusted anyone with the brakes on my car.
Coolest thing i have seen in months, thanks for the info!
Great tip. And hi from just across the boarder to the north!
Hi, I like your videos, an observation. The vapors coming out of the glass jar when you drop the dry ice is not water, it is the CO2 transforming from solid to gas state without going to to liquid state, known as sublimation
Mr. Pete, I succeed placing the bearings most of the time by putting the bearing into the Freezer for a couple of hours. But nevertheless nice vid. Love your vids.
it's a previligiate way to install bearings. besides, heating the housing is another way to do the assembly.
a combination of heat and cold is the best way to proceed
i cant get dry ice used freezer worked a treat thanks for the tip mr pete '
ive noticed at walmart by the service counter they now have a dry ice chest..even at pekin so others should too.
If you fit a bearing just .001" into a bore, you will need to use a hydraulic press to remove it. If you heat up a bore to insert a bearing and the bore is too small (about .010" smaller) it wont spin. Fitting bearings is engineering calculated. Not too big, not too small. I spent more than 20 years dealing with that. Shrink and expansion are very precise. When you cut a piece of wood you can use a tape measure to measure it, to measure a diameter of metal bore or shaft you must use the right tool.
Too bad no old school shop teachers anymore. not everyone needs to go to college. But, that notwithstanding, guys need to know how to diagnose and fix things.
Great job, Lyle
Jim
Depending on material you can also heat the housing that bearing sits in, same with larger setups.
Very minor correction that's not water vapor coming off the jar, "When dry ice is added to water, it sublimes to carbon dioxide gas rapidly because the solution's temperature is warmer than the dry ice (-78.5 C° or -109.3 F°). This gas can be observed as bubbles or clouds above the solution."
you deserve all respect Mr Pete beside likes .
Thank you very much
Great tip, thanks , also for where to get the dry ice.
My dad had an automotive repair facility and when he had to replace valve seats he would freeze them in the freezer over night and drop them into the head or the block of the old flat head engines.
Hi Lyall, as I earlier explained to Adam booth, here in the UK, we use the Isle Of Wight method to measure bearings, o rings and seals....Indside,Outside and Width....hence, IOW, ...just a useless bit of info.
Regards.
Rich.
Hi mr pete, as slways i like your how it works, but u nake it interesting keep em coming
IF you get a chance do a video on the clearances needed for fits and how to find the information
I remember from show there is a method and reason to this madness but forgot what its called to search for it
DO NOT ADD ANY MUSIC TO YOUR VIDEOS. EVER. It'd be appalling. You have the most endearing and elegant old American voice and idium. And the silences on your video are, well, golden.
Doing great work as usual.
Isn't that what I'm doing now?
+mrpete222 Thanks again for this video. I did use it on my backing plate for my 3 jaw chuck. I used .003" interference fit. I put the back plate in my freezer for 6 hours, pulled it out and it dropped right into the chuck.
I need to be able to put that almost exact bearing on a shaft. It’s for a water pump drive on a 1996 LT1 engine
Excellent! Thanks Mr. Pete!
This video will make you a believer in making a bearing contract with cold temperature.
Thanks for another very interesting video.
Great tutorial mr pete!
I'm from the UK and hadn't heard the term "cardice" before. It seems it's a brand-name, so it's probably referred to as that more in industry than by individuals.
You can transfer the cold from the CO2 chunks to the item you are shrinking by adding alcohol ...the liquid will transfer the cold quickly.
I'm doing sealed bearings on dolly wheels very soon . very timely. Will I need to regrease them after words? if so what is good to use( they are a high speed bearing) thanks. I don't machine but have all ways been interested. I was in a shop a few years back and the old timer there wasn't interested in teaching any more. I guess it wasn't my time. keep up with the videos and thank you for what you do
The steel tyres on railway wheels are fitted using the same principle but in reverse.
3:49 - Should have put the ring into dry ice to prove the theory. :-)
Always to be in a good class .and thanks for you time.on the front row
We had vats of liquid nitrogen at Air Research AKA Allied Signal now Honeywell, and the main products were APUs (jet engine starters), and jet, turbo prop, and turbine engines were kind of secondary. Now the main thing is turbine engines, for the Chinook helicopter. I had a piston seize into a brake caliper, and got it out by throwing the caliper in the freezer over night. I put a screwdriver into the dust boot ring, tapped it once and the piston fell out. The day before, I beat, & twisted & cursed, and pounded, and cursed some more. The crooks at the garage could not get that piston out either, but they still charged me $300 to rebuild the caliper, despite the fact they did not actually do any of the work. I am sure they tried, but some days being smart beats being strong. That incident started me buying tools and fixing my own stuff. 33 years later I don't even want to know what it would cost to replace my tools. The knowledge is something no one can steal from me, except maybe old age and dementia.
A word of caution to your viewers: In the past, I've used dry ice/acetone baths for cooling traps in vacuum systems (Chemistry) and other applications. The problem arises in that copious quantities of CO₂ will dissolve into acetone −78.5 °C (Henry's Law). If you then plunge a room temperature object into the bath (e.g. a thermometer), it will immediately raise the temperature, causing CO₂ gas to come out of solution. The gas bubbles churn the solution, accelerating the degassing. A geyser of dangerously cold and flammable acetone is the result.
I once had this happen in my kitchen on a particularly cold winter day. Needless to say, having to open all windows, extinguish all pilot lights and potential ignition sources, and air out the house for hours was no picnic! If you must submerge an object in such a bath, do so with extreme care. Pre-chill it if possible, and immerse it in the bath as slowly as you can.
P.S. You could have just looked up "dry ice" in the phone book. Remember those? :P
+Brandon Fesser what...WHAT.....FOR THE LOVE OF PETE, DONT LEAVE ME HANGIN.....WHAT THE HELL HAPPENS WHEN
From Ohio...THANK YOU...for sharing.
+mrpete222 I haven't heard of the bearing mount you spoke of at the end of the video. Something about taking care of a problem where the bearing outer shell would spin in the bore? Could you tell us about that in another video?
Does the effect.of cold work on the opposite instrument that you showed the thermo expansion demonstration? I'm sure it does, but didn't know if the aluminum would shrink that much. also when I sleeve a bearing or race over a shaft, I heat the bearing.or race in oil to give it a more even heating.and less likely to over heat and damage or weaken one side more.than the other.
Could you use the dry ice to remove a bearing as well? Would the heat transfer from the bearing to the ice quicker then the heat form the casing to the bearing?
I have a 50mm tapered roller bearing and the outer race is a press fit to the iron casing. Do you think it would work to jam a piece of dry ice on the inside of the race, possibly apply little heat to the casing beforehand and quickly tap the race out? There is only a small lip upon which I could tap or use a press so even getting the race to be slightly smaller would help.
Thanks for all your videos, I like them very much.
Little man says that was interesting. Very interesting.
+MrHevyshevy you know what you have to do now, dontcha?
Yep, he's already asked twice if I've brought home dry ice....haha
Sounds like a good technique for inserting the wrist pin / piston on my chainsaw rebuild.
that was very intersting i learnd something today thank you
Have often done this with heavy equipment especially bulldozer final drives, use heat and nitrogen or dry ice in conjunction with each other sometimes due to larger interferences. One thing that has always bugged me physcally-why when something expands under heat let's say a bearing, does it only expand outwards and bit in all directions, you would thing it would expand evenly both direction's, I know.it doesent but it has always bugged me lol.
You don't need dry ice, just put it in the freezer overnight, and you can heat the casting to expand it if tight press, 100 degrees = 1thou.
Try plumber's aerosol freezer. Works well and obtainable everywhere.
You had a video of a steam engine model of your dads that was incomplete. You ever thought of finishing it?