Chrysler Pacifica Upper Intake leak
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- 3.5 Pacifica Upper Intake Air leak
This issue is very common on the 3.5 Pacificas. You will hear a hissing/whistle sound if you pop the hood. And your check engine light will go on as well, with possibly different codes, as system to lean and it could also affect the idle and such. And the issue with this is on the upper intake, bad news is that it cost around $2000 at the dealer, which is the only place you may find it, and at a junk yard around $700, which I would not recommend considering it is a very common problem it may happen to you again. We came up with a solution, the video explains what we did, sorry if video is a little confusing, didn't take much time to think over what I was going to say, haha.
I just did this it worked!!! Awesome!!! Instead of using a drill we have a little hand held torch heated a nail using vice, and used pliar to melt a hole than used a very small self tapping screw! Same year and everything.......... location Boone Iowa!
I'm glad to hear that! It's a money saver considering the rod is part of the whole intake and it cost over $1400 at the dealer!
The customer's car which we did this on has been fine for well over a year now.
Back again. I was changing the UIM gasket and had a different idea as a fix. I had a bunch of old fuel injector o-rings and I slid them over the "cam arm" thats attached to the runner flaps, they are just the right size to fit in the outer round plastic ring you guys put the screw through and seal up the leak, using a bunch of them I was able to offset the rail out far enough to same distance you showed it should be at. Using several fat o-rings to act like a long rubber spacer
Alternately one could JB weld some plastic or steel rods and round plate on the outside of the UIM that holds the cam arm out the correct distance.
But your idea is probably simplest and quickest
Excellent video guys, I have an 04, I will never again buy a " first year" car. Just noticed a loud whistling, figured its a vacuum leak and luckily found your video. Good simple fix you did. For those who said there is a crack, I'm sure they knew that and will fix it with JB weld.
If that problem wasn't bad enough, did you see how easy they flimsy plastic arm pooped off. That's the next problem to get ahead of.
We can thank congress for these problems by pushing these ridiculously fast high gas mileage requirements with little time, hence move to plastic junk like you see in the video.
Our congress sits there like they did a great thing at no cost to consumers. Congress is what keeps the repair shops and after market parts mfg's in business so I guess we should thank them for the job security. They never understand the 10's of millions little people who get screwed with outrageous repair bills due to forcing car mfg to do what can't be done right now, they make it work for a while and the best part is you have to pay them again to make it work again for another "while".
I also have an 03 Impala with 3800 engine whose plastic upper manifold warps and leaks coolant into the engine, plus the cheap plastic lower manifold gaskets doing the same. I got rid of the plastic upper and put an L26 aluminum upper on my L36 engine, plus 97 Camaro Aluminum valve covers from a junk yard (which I mirrored polished) and that stops the GM oil leak which sets all the 3800 engines on fire. Ford got burned big time by a similar issue, I'm sure many more engine problems would not occur if cheap plastic wasn't used.
I started working on cars as a young kid just before the muscle car craze, do your self a favor, learn how to fix simple things on your car, buy some tools, some torque wrenches, get a subscription to Mtichell or AllData and buy a 50-100$ wireless ODB code reader, you will more than make up for all that cost in one simple fix, like replacing an O2 sensor. Word of caution just because you do the above ti doesn't make you a master mechanic but there are very simple things you can save massive $ on following the above, watching many videos, getting the repair subscription for your car and further research buy reading alot out there on the good old interweb
As Eric the Car Guy says -stay Dirty
Could use some epoxy putty, to build up the surface where you drilled and tapped the hole. Hopefully keeping the plastic from splitting.. that area is so thin. Great vid.. I'm sure this will help a lot of people
Excellent low cost fix for a minor issue
you are absolutely correct about putting hands on a worn intake already. And a junk yard may also quite a bit of money for one. The worst thing is that he dealer only sells the intake as a whole, surprise right? Unfortunately I do not know of any other methods, the car we did this to has been daily driven since with no problem. This could honestly turn into some trial and error, I mean to question his knowledge but everything has to be a tight fit in order to end the leak.
The screw is not on there that tight. The purpose of the screw is to make the bigger rod work is its place, so it doesn't have play and move in/out. Thats what was creating the a leak/whistling sound.
Thanks for the great video! Y'all are true mechanics. Do you recall what engine code was tripped by this leak? I have one that seems to hesitate like it is a vacuum leak, but no code. Also, what did the whistle sound like? No joke. I swear the neighbor's cat is under the hood sometimes with this one... thanks for the video!
Thanks! the customer whose car was used in the video is still driving great! And i do not remember exactly what code, different ones may appear which is the reason i didn't have a specific one posted, any code that will indicate a leak with the possible hissing/whistle noise may indicate a similar problem. And the whistle isn't very loud but with the car running and standing in front of car with hood open would be noticeable.
+Tom Gomes a loss of power can be a symptom of this as well?, I have no check engine , but I have just realize that the last time I change spark plugs that peace also looked unaligned on mine!
gas cap will set off a Evap leak code but does not affect the cars functionality, i.e. the idle. This issue here is different, not sure if you watched the whole video.
sorry but I said different procedure meaning something different.. but honestly, if you dont have a CEL on I would put the screw there to keep the rod snug to reduce the leak and call ti a day.. and see if you have any problems with it then. Now, you mentioned the valve sticking, is this when your manually moving it or when it is operating?
Am having the same problem. What you guys did not tell those of us who can't come to you is first how to remove the intake and what size screw you used? I have an 07 pacifica 4.0L
yeah, iIm afraid it might be too worn. But i obviously cant guarantee that, it could be a slightly different procedure than this would work for you... the car in which we did this has been driven since it was fixed well over a year ago still going strong. I would try the screw and clear the code and put it back together and see if code would come back..
What is the Torque the upper intake manifold 2004 Chrysler Pacifica
nice fix, i don't think a junkyard intake is $7oo though. probably $1oo or less in Mass
What size screw did you use for this?
Am right now having exactly having this problem with 07 Pacifica v6 4.0L do have anyone in DC or Southern Maryland area that help to fix this problem ? You guy are great with do U already help lot of who can't afford a new. Intake from the dealer.Grrrrrrrreat Guys
Do you need a new plenum if the small arm has broken off where it attaches to the rod?
The rod that runs into the plenum
if you remove the rod you will basically lose the function of the upper intake. The rod is what open and closes the butterflies to let air in/stop air flow.
could be a throttle body issue... gets stuck and needs cleaned, or may need replaced. Also, if gas cap isn't on correctly, will set off engine lite issues
The problem showed on this video would not cause that..Most likely dealing with something else. Has tests been done to check for other problems..?
what is the torque for the intake air plenum 7 screws
Hi I'm having a problem the little rod that connects to the rod where you put the screw in. That metal play is loose from the big rod my question is shoes it be solid as one piece
obviously only tests could confirm what it is but since they have replaced the fuel pump it seems like its going to be some other electrical problem. And at the fuel rail, fuel does does not always have a high pressure which would cause it to shoot out.. Remove the injectors and crank the car and see if they are injecting proper fuel, this may not be a fuel problem after all.
could this cause oil to leak from above the oil filler cap (Front right corner of the intake manifold) and drip down onto the exhaust manifold?
Let me know how that works out...The owner of this car also happens to be a friend of ours, and his car comes back for oil changes regularly, we have not had a problem with that fix, definitely better than spending 2k+ on an intake and labor.
i have a guy that wants me to buy an 05. he says it needs a new intake gasket. says it has whit smooke would that be the same problem. iv never had one of these cars i know nothing about them.Thanks
the one thing that i would change is to round off end or bolt so it will fit into (shinny spot ) grove on shaft.
yes that would make sense now wouldn't it. they make a reapir but then make it shoddy at best. and look at the size of the bolt? they said no room and then put in a 1/4" bolt/screw might ahve been better to use 1/8 or 3/16" and yes round the end to give it more rub room and not cause a early failure of that shaft.
Would u also be able to use multiple c clamps until u get the proper gap
how the sound look s like? thanks josef
yeah you guys went a little big on hole + bolt. its cracked could always do a bit of jb weld and drill and tap it.
Well a job like this is a case by case thing, you can't do it exactly on every other one. But this one was done on a friends vehicle and it is still good up to this day.
i do have some whistling but i don t know what cause this it coming from engine specials morning when it is cold it is like siren
What happens, if I take away the plasticrod. Which function is gonna loose?
i took my intake off and the rod is missing where can i get a new one?
I have an 06 Chrysler Pacific 3.5l with a check engine light that indicates p0172, which is an intake leak. Is this the problem? All hoses and sensors have been checked. What are the names to these pieces? Need help, need to find a solution.
Hello, can I know did you fix your problem? I have the same code p0172. Thank you for your help.
@@melquisedecmur5492 can't remember if I did. The vehicle was sold
Do you know what causes the engine light to stay on.
Would i have to buy a whole new plenum if the arm on the butterfly is missing?
sorry for such a delayed response, but that is weird that the arm would be missing, are you sure? I don't know what year pacifica you have but just make it has the same model intake, or it hasn't been previously worked on.
I am missing the part that hooks to the intake. The part you screwed a hole into!! I don't know what to do?
I'm working on a fix/replacement for the outside short plastic arm which connect the 2 "ball towers" from the UIM flappers and other one on the solenoid acuator which I think you are talking about. Mine has fell off a few times. First time I used some fine plain thin steel wire wrapped around the around the short arm and the extended tab that the "ball towers" is connected to.
Buts it junk plastic. Better and easier is to get 3/8ths or 1/2 inch wide aluminum stock bar thats about 1/8 thick from big box store. Then measure the center to center distance of the "ball towers" and add 1/2 to 3/4 of and inch to the center to center length, however you really need the short arm so you know where the flapper "ball tower" should be positioned.
Visualize you cut piece of Aluminum stock as being horizontal in front of you. Then cut a horizontal slot at each end of the aluminum stock just a bit bigger then the width of the "rod part" that holds the "ball" of the "ball tower". You can then slide the aluminum stock over the the rod section and since this "ball" at the end is bigger, the bar aluminum stock can not slide off. The flapper end is freely movable so you can easily rotate the flapper to get the other end on.
However one or both of the "ball towers" may be able to slide out of the slot. I'm looking at a crimping a C washer over then slotted end and around the rod or you can just make the aluminum stock a bit longer and thus the slots longer and carefully crimp the end of the stock, but make sure you the aluminum stock doesn't crimp down on the rod because the rod and the aluminum bar need to rotate freely. You can stick an allen wrench (or any thin hard object) in by the "bar" before crimping the end to ensure the aluminum doesn't get crimped on to the rod. Also you can't leave to much or really much wiggle room in the resultant slot as this will/may add slop to where the intake flaps are actually positioned, although I dont think an 1/8 or 1/4 inch slop would be a problem.
I know this is hard to visualize but tomorrow or day after I post more detailed info when I do this.Hope this helps.
Alternately if you have any Simpson strong tie straps you can fab the bar our of that.
Yea first they said it was the fuel pump and replaced it but it didn't help, I checked the fuel lines and from the back it's shooting fuel but from a purge with a green cap behind the right head light under the hood bbisn't . when the
THANK YOU 4 THE INFO GUY'S! GOOD VIDEO!
WATS SEATS IN FRONT OF THE CONDENSER
size screw and bit you used???
oh yeah I wasn't hating on ya. Was a good idea. Good job bro.
when changing the engine is it easy to go from the top or bottom
Bottom🤥
What is the torque spec? And sequence order of torque?
Apparently it is a jealously guarded top secret or it is information lost to the sands of time. In any instance no mechanic on YT or elsewhere will tell you. I have scoured the internet looking for this same information myself. Best I could come up with here is tighten from the center out and snug 'em down, not too tight! That's some high speed, low drag , highly technical shite right there let me tell you! 😂
very very good smart video guys. kudos. your gonna save some people a ton of cash!
Can someone tell me what that bar part is called. my car doesnt even have it on there and its making all the same symptoms obviously cuz its missing haha
I have the same question, you got the part
Did u ever find out I’m missing the small rod that goes from that box no idea what it’s called plz help
Dude thank you .... You guys rock whoooooohoooo💵💵💵😃😃😃😃🍺🍺🍺🍺
so what code did this issue set? you did not say.
bob palmer I didn’t mention a code because it can throw different ones.. it will be idle related or a lean system.
ok p0171 is one. it would not have hurt to at lease insert the codes this issue had for you in this video. not my issue but a lot of people wanted that code. so here it is on possible code anyway
Most times too it will be p0442
thanks for the update.
Would that couse the trans to mess up too?
Theres a video says replace alternator for trans issues
What engine code will this air leak show
my pacifica evaporator sysrtem leak
well damn that's why this guy is trying to sell his chrysler pacifica for 1300 dollars and that's why I see them collecting dust on the car lots mercedes and chrysler why do that to people
great info but crap videographers. lol
this guy is a joke