When I need to make two boards fit together lengthwise, I lay them as they will be installed and secure them so that they can't move in relation to each other, then run a skill saw right down the seam splitting the thickness of the saw kerf. The resultant seam has absolutely no gaps and makes a perfect joint. In a situation where I'm not using Tonge and Groove joints, but I still want a joint that does not appear to open I will tilt the saw blade about 7 degrees and put the boards on the wall so that the angle is away from my eye line. That way if the wood shrinks a little and the joints pull apart there is still wood behind the leading edge of the board to hide what is behind the board. Great video Wes thumbs up.
Love the use of the fan to blow the chips off to the side, and off the board you're planing. I generally use my dust collector with my planar, but when I don't, the chips end up all over the shop and the boards. That fan worked great.
Good video... learned a trick from you on flattening the sawmill putting the 2 edges together...for an edger I use my radial arm saw in rip mode and I have a perfectly streight fence for it... the fence is long enough for a 12 foot board on each side of the saw and with the board. Crowned so that each end of the board is touching the fence I set the saw out to the maximum width of the board I can get and run it threw then flip the board re adjust saw for width and rip again ....cheers
Pretty results from your Lt15. I think I watched the video of you Milling those Logs. I got 9 Cedar trees from an old home place to Mill. Ancient Cedar trees.
Great video. It surprised me how straight your mill gets those boards. I also really like your plainer. You do good work. Thank you for sharing your videos with us. I also appreciate the clean christian character you present on all your videos. Thanks again.
You should be able to push those boards together as you install them, but we bought a Bauer electric hand planer from Harbor Freight. It makes those joints really easy to fit together. We've been enjoying the videos for a while now. Love to see your little guy say "thumbs up"!
Very interesting... love the way you have equipment for just about any job and yes I was thinking "I bet those shavings smell good". Always enjoy your postings.
I never knew that the frame of your mill was that flexible. I didn't know you were going to make a bunch of stickers for the next lumber pile. Pretty pile of shavin' s from the plane too. Nicely done, Wes.
Built several cabins with rough lumber. We just put black roofing paper up behind them. If it does shrink a tad. You have a black line. We never finished ours just nailed them up rough sideways. Great video!
I see a drying shed (warehouse) in your future. Fully enclosed with screens to keep out unwanted squatters of the insectivore variety. Lots of overhang to protect from the elements. Love the smell of fresh cut lumber. City kid here (71), born and raised, with country roots that go waaaaaay back starting with mom and daddy (both were farm kids, and daddy was a PK on top of that). I have always thought/felt I missed my calling.
That kiln is great for drying wood to sell...but not terribly convenient for drying wood for a particular job. True, "kiln dried" means bug free and lower MC right out of the kiln, but stacked kiln-dried wood will have the same MC as your air-dried wood--over the same amount of time your stack was stored outside. If a guy had exceptional planning skills and lots of lead time it (kiln drying wood for a particular job) might work, but having 7% +- MC stock on hand? You'd need to close in that super nice Taylor Made Clubhouse and make it an air conditioned wood storage. WAIT!!!!!! I always wanted an air conditioned wood storage...that might be fun! The Lumber House!!!
Going to look really good and give you that country look. I do woodworking and one thing I have a hard time with using a jointer is keeping the fence and the blades at exactly 90 degrees, so the face of the board and the edge come out perpendicular, which I bet is really hard on a sawmill. But, one trick I found out is that if you flip the boards over... i.e., put the side that was against the fence of the jointer up and on the next board put the side that was against the fence down, it helps cancel out any errors where the jointer blades and fence are not exactly 90 degrees to each other.
I first found this guy because I wanted to watch honey being processed then I started falling asleep to it and now I watch all his videos. This has been a weird journey
At 13% they probably will shrink after you put them up inside the house and open up the gaps at the edges. Outside they would work fine. If you had time and room you could stack and sticker them inside house for while and let them dry more before putting them up.
Do you have a jointer? I know these boards are too long for most jointers but the day I got my jointer my woodworking quality and enjoyment improved exponentially
For the .06 gap, a hand plane on both ends with the boards clamped together, zip zip zip both ends and a LOOONG zip end to end. I noticed that on one of the cuts the boards were skewed outboard from each other, kinda makes an alternate angle edge.
I’m curious why you don’t have a jointer? Even a 6” one would be sufficient to clean up and tighten the gap on those edges. What’s your thought on those machines?
A real edger is best for that but when you don't have it you make do for it a lots of time after the edger you use the table sW for the other side but that is for consecutive cut ( cuts that are the same wideness ) but in your case for board on the wall the edger would work for both side they don't need to the perfect the wideness have a great day
Question: are you using the Kiln that you constructed about a year ago? I would think that you would want the boards to be around 5 to 7% on the moisture meter.
It'd be good to get them to 5%, but the kiln that I made was poorly designed. It dried boards great, but it was a back breaker to use. I just air dry now.
Think about this. Once the blade gets into a piece(s) of wood, it'll have the ability to lift them up, at different highs not perceived at human naked eyes, shake them, and cut them in an uneven level at different portions, depending on the wood weight. To avoid the lifting in the sort of the board, it's shakings, and vibrations that alter your levels, think about this, creating a system that holds them tight in place, against the bottom of the mill not solely on it's weight but held, so they don't get lifted up. Such system must ideally left no marks on the boards if they're to be used as finished pieces. A bunch at a time is safer and harder to be lifted but, the boards of the extreme, may get swinged out like a skirt, when you see the pile from a extreme, so it's edge cut may be not 0° if they're not held tight against the pile, especially the last one that's not against the piece that's up holding them up.
What model Grizzly planner do you have ? I've got a Grizzly jointer 8" bought at an auction. when my wife seen it she said I suppose you're gonna bid on it . That was permission to go for it lol
Hello Wes. Would a cat's claw be good enough to pull the boards together during installation? Does it make a difference on the sawmill that all of the boards were not exactly vertical? It looks like you could use some plastic barrels to store the shavings in until you use it for the chicken house. Do you have solid footing for the jacks? Have good days!
When I need to make two boards fit together lengthwise, I lay them as they will be installed and secure them so that they can't move in relation to each other, then run a skill saw right down the seam splitting the thickness of the saw kerf. The resultant seam has absolutely no gaps and makes a perfect joint. In a situation where I'm not using Tonge and Groove joints, but I still want a joint that does not appear to open I will tilt the saw blade about 7 degrees and put the boards on the wall so that the angle is away from my eye line. That way if the wood shrinks a little and the joints pull apart there is still wood behind the leading edge of the board to hide what is behind the board. Great video Wes thumbs up.
That’s pretty brilliant, Craig. Thanks for the tip!
I can smell it from here, mixed with that fresh country air...heaven!
Really enjoyed that, thankyou.
Great stuff. But I do miss seeing your boy say "thumbs up"! He sure is a blessing.
I LOVE the smell of cedar...I did my whole room in cedar
Those are some beautiful boards. Lucky you.
Always entertaining and informative.
Love the use of the fan to blow the chips off to the side, and off the board you're planing. I generally use my dust collector with my planar, but when I don't, the chips end up all over the shop and the boards. That fan worked great.
Very cool. The fan is a great idea. Blows wood clean and makes a neat pile! Good job!
Yep! Quick and easy!
Another great, relaxing, interesting video!! 👍🌟 God bless you and your family! Have a great weekend! ❤️🙏❤️
Well done 👍👍👍. Thank you for sharing. Be safe 🇨🇦
Good video... learned a trick from you on flattening the sawmill putting the 2 edges together...for an edger I use my radial arm saw in rip mode and I have a perfectly streight fence for it... the fence is long enough for a 12 foot board on each side of the saw and with the board. Crowned so that each end of the board is touching the fence I set the saw out to the maximum width of the board I can get and run it threw then flip the board re adjust saw for width and rip again ....cheers
Pretty results from your Lt15. I think I watched the video of you Milling those Logs.
I got 9 Cedar trees from an old home place to Mill. Ancient Cedar trees.
I have learned so much from you. Thank you!
Just playing some of that cedar on my new 15 inch jet planer that I got off Craigslist for $800 what a deal that cedar smells good
Again, great video. I am a new sawmill owner. Your videos have really helped me a lot to hit the ground running. Thanks!!!
Cool! Thanks for watching!
Great video. It surprised me how straight your mill gets those boards. I also really like your plainer. You do good work. Thank you for sharing your videos with us. I also appreciate the clean christian character you present on all your videos. Thanks again.
You should be able to push those boards together as you install them, but we bought a Bauer electric hand planer from Harbor Freight. It makes those joints really easy to fit together. We've been enjoying the videos for a while now. Love to see your little guy say "thumbs up"!
enjoyed the video and the boards really looked great after they were plained.
I remember seeing a cedar video of yours
Nice work
Very interesting... love the way you have equipment for just about any job and yes I was thinking "I bet those shavings smell good". Always enjoy your postings.
I never knew that the frame of your mill was that flexible. I didn't know you were going to make a bunch of stickers for the next lumber pile. Pretty pile of shavin' s from the plane too. Nicely done, Wes.
Built several cabins with rough lumber. We just put black roofing paper up behind them. If it does shrink a tad. You have a black line. We never finished ours just nailed them up rough sideways. Great video!
That is pretty wood
Very interesting video thanks Wes - you turned out some lovely boards there, the Cedar looked fabulous! Stay safe & well! 👍👍
That wall is gonna look great.
Perhaps you should pour a slab for the mill to sit on.
I see a drying shed (warehouse) in your future. Fully enclosed with screens to keep out unwanted squatters of the insectivore variety. Lots of overhang to protect from the elements. Love the smell of fresh cut lumber. City kid here (71), born and raised, with country roots that go waaaaaay back starting with mom and daddy (both were farm kids, and daddy was a PK on top of that). I have always thought/felt I missed my calling.
That was great, Wes! Really enjoyed watching the process! Your living room is going to be beautiful👍
Thanks for sharing.
Looks good
That kiln is great for drying wood to sell...but not terribly convenient for drying wood for a particular job.
True, "kiln dried" means bug free and lower MC right out of the kiln, but stacked kiln-dried wood will have the same MC as your air-dried wood--over the same amount of time your stack was stored outside.
If a guy had exceptional planning skills and lots of lead time it (kiln drying wood for a particular job) might work, but having 7% +- MC stock on hand? You'd need to close in that super nice Taylor Made Clubhouse and make it an air conditioned wood storage.
WAIT!!!!!! I always wanted an air conditioned wood storage...that might be fun! The Lumber House!!!
Going to look really good and give you that country look. I do woodworking and one thing I have a hard time with using a jointer is keeping the fence and the blades at exactly 90 degrees, so the face of the board and the edge come out perpendicular, which I bet is really hard on a sawmill. But, one trick I found out is that if you flip the boards over... i.e., put the side that was against the fence of the jointer up and on the next board put the side that was against the fence down, it helps cancel out any errors where the jointer blades and fence are not exactly 90 degrees to each other.
Hey I believe if you wiggle your joystick back and forth it will release the pressure on the hoses it worked for me
I bet if you save those shavings and use it for bedding for your next batch of pigs, they would love you for it. Thumbs Up , Ron
I first found this guy because I wanted to watch honey being processed then I started falling asleep to it and now I watch all his videos. This has been a weird journey
Cool! Thanks for watching!
Will make some nice finished walls.
At 13% they probably will shrink after you put them up inside the house and open up the gaps at the edges. Outside they would work fine. If you had time and room you could stack and sticker them inside house for while and let them dry more before putting them up.
But then we'd miss out on hearing him say, "I probably should have ...." 😀
My wife would be tickled to have those wood shavings for her compost piles😂
Beautiful‼️
Need to come see you and get some wood cut for my house ....
You need a jointer for after you get it close. It would be interesting to see your wall when you're finished.
I would also tighten up the wood on the mill and use more than one clamp somehow to hold the wood real nice.
MM77 Approved 👍🏻👍🏻
Do you have a jointer? I know these boards are too long for most jointers but the day I got my jointer my woodworking quality and enjoyment improved exponentially
I sure don't.
Hope you use the cedar wood chips. Put some in fine mesh bags to hang in closets to deter moths and other insects.
For the .06 gap, a hand plane on both ends with the boards clamped together, zip zip zip both ends and a LOOONG zip end to end. I noticed that on one of the cuts the boards were skewed outboard from each other, kinda makes an alternate angle edge.
Sometime you should show us what you do with your off-cuts, millings, and sawdust. Compost? Kindling? Firewood? Lumber stickers? Firestarter?
Man here in Australia that pile would have been a prime spot for red belly black snake or the more venomous Brown snake
A jointer will help you get those edges straight. Careful with the lengths you join. Short mean beware!
Great way to Resaw boards straight. What type of blades are you liking to use?
When it comes to making finished boards you may want to have a jointer also besides just a plainer
I’m curious why you don’t have a jointer? Even a 6” one would be sufficient to clean up and tighten the gap on those edges. What’s your thought on those machines?
A real edger is best for that but when you don't have it you make do for it a lots of time after the edger you use the table sW for the other side but that is for consecutive cut ( cuts that are the same wideness ) but in your case for board on the wall the edger would work for both side they don't need to the perfect the wideness have a great day
Find a used jointer, it will mill the edges and you won't have to worry about the edges.
👌👍
When I gang cut I have the back rails and my clamp as high as possible.
I tried to get it higher, but it was pushing the boards out of square. I think I needed my middle stop up.
Question: are you using the Kiln that you constructed about a year ago? I would think that you would want the boards to be around 5 to 7% on the moisture meter.
It'd be good to get them to 5%, but the kiln that I made was poorly designed. It dried boards great, but it was a back breaker to use. I just air dry now.
Think about this.
Once the blade gets into a piece(s) of wood, it'll have the ability to lift them up, at different highs not perceived at human naked eyes, shake them, and cut them in an uneven level at different portions, depending on the wood weight. To avoid the lifting in the sort of the board, it's shakings, and vibrations that alter your levels, think about this, creating a system that holds them tight in place, against the bottom of the mill not solely on it's weight but held, so they don't get lifted up. Such system must ideally left no marks on the boards if they're to be used as finished pieces.
A bunch at a time is safer and harder to be lifted but, the boards of the extreme, may get swinged out like a skirt, when you see the pile from a extreme, so it's edge cut may be not 0° if they're not held tight against the pile, especially the last one that's not against the piece that's up holding them up.
What model Grizzly planner do you have ?
I've got a Grizzly jointer 8" bought at an auction. when my wife seen it she said I suppose you're gonna bid on it . That was permission to go for it lol
If you will rock the hydraulic levers after turning the tractor off you won't have to let fluid out of the system. Just sayen.
need a cedar pine soap
Beautiful lumber !! Are u gunna white wash them or Minwax them ? Or paint 🎨 🤔 😅 🙃
Polyurethane on the pine.
Hey, what happened to the pigs? How many pounds of meat did you get. Does Junior know your gonna eat them? I imagine he wasn't happy. Nice video.
Junior knows! We warned him for months. Should have a video about that soon.
That box sounded like heavy glass like milk bottles. For honey maybe??
I'm wondering why you don't adjust the boards so the ends are even? Terry
I hate to say it but, that's what table saws and joiners are for.....no biggie to straighten out
Did you get the pigs back yet?
Yes, should have a video about that soon.
I was just about to ask that same question. Can’t wait to see the results.
no ancient router to go with the coal powered planer?
What brand is the plainer?
Should've clamped the ends of them boards, otherwise you'll get non square edges
You're missing one major tool -- jointer.
Feb 2021 . . . . . any chance that lumber came off my place?
100% chance.
That's after you turn your engine off wiggle it back and forth a few times
You know you could have lifted the heavy box with the tractor bucket instead of your back😀
Probably would have been smarter.
Hello Wes. Would a cat's claw be good enough to pull the boards together during installation? Does it make a difference on the sawmill that all of the boards were not exactly vertical? It looks like you could use some plastic barrels to store the shavings in until you use it for the chicken house.
Do you have solid footing for the jacks? Have good days!
whats the result with the pigs
If you cut edges at 5 degrees, the gaps will disappear
Oh - Emm - Gee. Blaaah blah blaah blaah blaaah. Cut out the chatter and just do it already. lol
nice work , have you bhecked out hobby hardwood alabama , he fas alot of informative videos