Really clever idea. As a newb (who has already bent his chassis!) this will be a much easier chassis transfer for me. Thank you for taking the time to show us.
yes i know the RPM stuff is great but today at about 40 degrees here in NJ plastic get brittle and can easily brake so one of my RPM wing mount on my Kraton EXB snap in half. Im so happy they got that life time warranty all you do is just ship back the parts that brake and the mail you back new parts. already did it once. Great video I love the typhon fastest buggy in the world.
Hi mate, Treat all plastic parts with silicone spray after washing..It really prolongs the life of RC plastics. Keeps it from going brittle and like new.
Cool video thanks for sharing. A good cradle might be those expanding foam shipping packages. It would form fit exactly to the contours of the components. Also, FYI arrma released a heat sink that fits this motor. I also added the matching cooling fan which fits with very minimal cuts to the body.
I've used the rpm wing mount an yes they don't break they just bend all crazy an make ur wing sit wrong... I stopped using them I don't feel they're a good option I just use softer screws so they break an not the stock wing mount a the typhon talion low pro wing mount is super tough... an as easy as a repair a wing mount is I'd stick with stock... no your towel idea looks incredibly awesome definitely trying it next time I replace a chassis thanks for the video
Wow, what an awesome idea in terms of the chassis swap, I think I'll give that a try when I receive my new chassis from BP RC ... and wing mount upgrade from RPM also a great idea...extremely informative video, keep up the good work my friend...
That's a super clever way to do it, however, If I'm gonna have my car that far apart, you can bet it's not going back together without a serious deep cleaning. Look at all that goop and filth you just built right back in and on your sweet new chassis. Looks like a serious chassis by the way!
@@AJJAMStudios I'm so close to ordering a typhon and anything that helps with durability I'm all about. I love my old hpi vorza but parts are limited and impossible to get. The next time I break anything critical I know I'm screwed. The typhon really does appeal to me along with the upgrades from your video
Be sure you check the physical size of the batteries you choose before you buy them, not all fit in the cavity. The body is sort of restricting and if you plan to stack two batteries instead of using one, I've found 5000mah 3s hard-shell batteries do not fit inside very well, especially with the body in place. Other than that, I think it is a good choice. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios thanks for the helpful feedback. I've noticed different brands of batteries go for diff shapes. My vorza barely fits alot of new batteries around the 5a capacity as alot of batteries now see to be shorter and wider. The wider part being the problem. I will definitely check sizes though to make sure they fit
It's always good to check and see if the batteries you are looking at actually fit the car. You can never tell if a salesperson "actually knows" if a battery will fit or not. They may not even indulge in the hobby. I've seen people bring the Typhon 6s and a battery set back into the store because they do not actually fit into the rig they sold them for. It can be super frustrating and no one takes the blame for the mishap. Prevention is key. Always check and see for yourself if the batteries fit. Thanks for the discussion. 😎👍
Once again...a helpful and carefully explained video. Think you could share the part # for the bumper/wing mounts. Got my bulletproof chassis and am just waiting for my hex set/driver to come in the mail so I can swap. I will definitely be using your towel method.
No, the bottom is countersunk to allow the stock screws to function normally. I like both chassis, the TLR and the Bulletproof. For high impact jumping the Bulletproof seems to be well suited, while the TLR is lighter and seems to handle the track and medium to light bashing better. The question is, what are you going to do with it? Headlong bashing with no regard for the consequences, or controlled driving with smaller jumps and more cornering? Weight is a thing when it comes to handling. I hope this helps. 😎👍
Definitely makes more sense. No tracks/ramps near me to get any big air so I guess the TLR is the way to go. Thanks for the feedback, its truly appreciated. Would you recommend getting Hoons (or any brand) street tires for days Ill just be on asphalt (to swap back and forth) or should I just run the stocks into the ground? Dirt, grass and some asphalt typically.
Pavement tires are always a good bet for running around in parking lots or the road. Save those dirt tires for the dirt. That's my opinion. I hope it helps. AJ
@AJJAMStudios so hows the bulletproof chassis holding up ... i just bought and crashed one of these Typhon 6s V5's and need a chassis so im doing some research and came across your channel... so was it worth the extra money now that you have had it for a while? thanks
Not too much. It does weigh about three times the original chassis, but then again, that chassis doesn't weigh much to begin with. I feel the added weight, so well distributed throughout the car, makes the thing feel more grounded and controllable. I'm having trouble seeing a down side to it. But then again, I am not racing either. In that vein weight really matters. Thanks for asking. AJ
Hey thanks for making this video, i just met Matt from Bulletproof RC and got my chassis im going to try your towel trick but before i do is there anything i should look out for? I have watched the video a few times but i thought i would ask.Not only that i want to Thank You for turning me onto Bulletproof RC
The procedure is fairly straightforward. However, use caution when putting the components on the new chassis. Parts may shift slightly, so try not to move things around much. It really is pretty simple. Have fun. 😎👍
Hi AJ, I've noticed Arrma now offer a 7075 upgraded Chassis for the Typhon. Due to me being in the UK this would be a significantly cheaper option than Bulletproof, M2C, Justbashit, etc. I don't suppose you have any knowledge of this chassis do you? I'm wondering if this makes more sense than being Tax and Import duty.
I haven't heard about them yet, but I will look into it. I'm actually waiting to see if Arrma puts out an EXB version of the Typhon. Thanks for the heads up.
I picked it up when I purchased my V4 Kraton. Does that make it a V4? I suppose it does. I know they came out with an upgraded one not to long ago. Thanks for the question. AJ
So I have the dx3 remote. For some reason it's got some delays in the reverse and from reverse into forward. I've only had it 2 months and don't have but about 3 or 4 runs in it.. any suggestions??
Good question. From reverse to forward and back all remotes for brushless systems have a delay until the car stops unless your system is sensored or a brushed one. It has to do with the motor indexing and the speed control. You must stop before changing directions. I hope this helps. 😎👍
True. Building is quickly becoming a lost art. But there are still those of us who began this hobby building our RCs from scratch. I hope building and repairing RCs stays with us as new people join the hobby. Building is half of the hobby for us here at the channel and "not wrenching" just feels wrong somehow. It can be so relaxing when done with no pressure. I can't imagine taking an RC into the hobby store to have it fixed. Thanks for commenting. 😎👍
![แฉกลโกงงานวัด 2024 [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.106 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/taC5dpP3HXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Really clever idea. As a newb (who has already bent his chassis!) this will be a much easier chassis transfer for me. Thank you for taking the time to show us.
Very welcome!
Wow that was so cool . That is a smart way to change the chassis
Thank you. The cradle definitely sped up the process, and kept the screws indexed for reassembly. AJ
yes i know the RPM stuff is great but today at about 40 degrees here in NJ plastic get brittle and can easily brake so one of my RPM wing mount on my Kraton EXB snap in half. Im so happy they got that life time warranty all you do is just ship back the parts that brake and the mail you back new parts. already did it once. Great video I love the typhon fastest buggy in the world.
Hi mate, Treat all plastic parts with silicone spray after washing..It really prolongs the life of RC plastics. Keeps it from going brittle and like new.
Cool video thanks for sharing.
A good cradle might be those expanding foam shipping packages. It would form fit exactly to the contours of the components.
Also, FYI arrma released a heat sink that fits this motor. I also added the matching cooling fan which fits with very minimal cuts to the body.
Awesome, thanks. 😎👍
Fantastic idea! Thanks.
Using a towel and tape roll as a cradle is super clever.
Thank you. I hope it helps you when you find yourself looking to upgrade.
Great tutorial and jumping! Also the music 🤘🤘
Awesome. Thanks. 😎👍
Nice I am going to try this I bent mine from the front. Thank you
Please let us know how it worked for you. Thanks 😎👍
Bro, awesome upgrade! You're channel is the best, you keep to the point and explain the important things
Glad you think so!
This is the cleverest RC vid I’ve seen to date ... subbed
Thank you, and welcome to the channel. AJ
I've used the rpm wing mount an yes they don't break they just bend all crazy an make ur wing sit wrong... I stopped using them I don't feel they're a good option I just use softer screws so they break an not the stock wing mount a the typhon talion low pro wing mount is super tough... an as easy as a repair a wing mount is I'd stick with stock... no your towel idea looks incredibly awesome definitely trying it next time I replace a chassis thanks for the video
Just installed this chassis and wow!!!! Amazing piece of work!!!! Because of this video is when i ordered it, thanks AJ And BProof RC!!! Upvoted!!!!
How long did it take to get your chassis from them? I ordered one a month ago still hasn't shown up..
Those typhons are sooo durable, need to get one
They jump good too; a great combination. Thanks for the comment. 😎👍
Wow, what an awesome idea in terms of the chassis swap, I think I'll give that a try when I receive my new chassis from BP RC ... and wing mount upgrade from RPM also a great idea...extremely informative video, keep up the good work my friend...
Thank you.
I may have to try this on my Typhon 6S. I like the width of your jump. I'm a rookie so I need a big target.
Absolutely fantastic! What a brilliant time saving idea... thank you for sharing.. big thumbs up from me. 👍🏼
Thanks so much 😊
Thanks for this great example. I am literally doing a new wing rpm wingmount and m2c chasis today. You are the man 👍
Thank you. I’m glad I was able to help.
@@AJJAMStudios Dude your videos are great and I swear you have a voice for radio. You will be RC famous soon my friend. Also like the tunes👍
Smiles all around here. Thank you. 😎👍
OMG that is genuis! Will this method work all RC? I own a Typhon 3S, Kraton 4S, Kraton 6S EXB, Losi DB Pro, and a Vortek 3S:
* My Mind was blown man *
It works for a lot of them. I hope it works for you. AJ
That's a super clever way to do it, however, If I'm gonna have my car that far apart, you can bet it's not going back together without a serious deep cleaning. Look at all that goop and filth you just built right back in and on your sweet new chassis. Looks like a serious chassis by the way!
Great video! Love the chassis
Thanks! Me too. 👍
Super clever! Great video👍😀👍
Thank you 🤗
I've got one of those 'Skinz Chasis Protecters' on my Typhon, so it is unbreakable and unscratchable too. Really good cheap upgrade 👌 👍
What an extremely helpful video. Definitely worth a like, subscribe, share after seeing this
Thank you very much 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios I'm so close to ordering a typhon and anything that helps with durability I'm all about. I love my old hpi vorza but parts are limited and impossible to get. The next time I break anything critical I know I'm screwed. The typhon really does appeal to me along with the upgrades from your video
Be sure you check the physical size of the batteries you choose before you buy them, not all fit in the cavity. The body is sort of restricting and if you plan to stack two batteries instead of using one, I've found 5000mah 3s hard-shell batteries do not fit inside very well, especially with the body in place. Other than that, I think it is a good choice. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios thanks for the helpful feedback. I've noticed different brands of batteries go for diff shapes. My vorza barely fits alot of new batteries around the 5a capacity as alot of batteries now see to be shorter and wider. The wider part being the problem. I will definitely check sizes though to make sure they fit
It's always good to check and see if the batteries you are looking at actually fit the car. You can never tell if a salesperson "actually knows" if a battery will fit or not. They may not even indulge in the hobby. I've seen people bring the Typhon 6s and a battery set back into the store because they do not actually fit into the rig they sold them for. It can be super frustrating and no one takes the blame for the mishap. Prevention is key. Always check and see for yourself if the batteries fit. Thanks for the discussion. 😎👍
Thanks
RPM RACING part number for the Arrma Typhon 6S Wing Mounts? RPM 81642
Thanks for sharing
BRILLIANT!
Thank you. 😎👍
Wow awesome idea 👍🏿🙏🏿.
Thank you! 😊
Once again...a helpful and carefully explained video. Think you could share the part # for the bumper/wing mounts. Got my bulletproof chassis and am just waiting for my hex set/driver to come in the mail so I can swap. I will definitely be using your towel method.
Wing - RPM 81642. Bumper - RPM 81812. I hope this helps. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios thank you much.
Great video could you tell me what weight shock oil yoir useing ftont and rear please .thank you.
Do you recommend this chassis over the TLR tuned chassis? Since this chassis is thicker did you have to swap out any of the bottom screws?
No, the bottom is countersunk to allow the stock screws to function normally. I like both chassis, the TLR and the Bulletproof. For high impact jumping the Bulletproof seems to be well suited, while the TLR is lighter and seems to handle the track and medium to light bashing better. The question is, what are you going to do with it? Headlong bashing with no regard for the consequences, or controlled driving with smaller jumps and more cornering? Weight is a thing when it comes to handling. I hope this helps. 😎👍
Definitely makes more sense. No tracks/ramps near me to get any big air so I guess the TLR is the way to go. Thanks for the feedback, its truly appreciated.
Would you recommend getting Hoons (or any brand) street tires for days Ill just be on asphalt (to swap back and forth) or should I just run the stocks into the ground? Dirt, grass and some asphalt typically.
Pavement tires are always a good bet for running around in parking lots or the road. Save those dirt tires for the dirt. That's my opinion. I hope it helps. AJ
That was great! May I ask if no threadlock works best for you?
I use thread lock when screwing into metal components. My screws already had locker on them. Thanks for the comment.
@@AJJAMStudios Thanks for clarifying!
@AJJAMStudios so hows the bulletproof chassis holding up ... i just bought and crashed one of these Typhon 6s V5's and need a chassis so im doing some research and came across your channel... so was it worth the extra money now that you have had it for a while? thanks
It is definitely thick and tough. I still haven’t bent it yet. I’m glad we decided to give it a shot. Great chassis. 😎👍
Clever 👍 Are you getting the Typhon TLR ?
Absolutely. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios Great 👍 Mine is arriving this Friday 😍
It's worth the wait. AJ
Great video. This idea should work on a 6s kraton right? I don’t see where it would be much difference.
It will work, but you may need a bit more padding to hold the components in place. The Kraton is bulkier. Thanks for asking. AJ
did it make it really heavy though?
Not too much. It does weigh about three times the original chassis, but then again, that chassis doesn't weigh much to begin with. I feel the added weight, so well distributed throughout the car, makes the thing feel more grounded and controllable. I'm having trouble seeing a down side to it. But then again, I am not racing either. In that vein weight really matters. Thanks for asking. AJ
Hey thanks for making this video, i just met Matt from Bulletproof RC and got my chassis im going to try your towel trick but before i do is there anything i should look out for? I have watched the video a few times but i thought i would ask.Not only that i want to Thank You for turning me onto Bulletproof RC
The procedure is fairly straightforward. However, use caution when putting the components on the new chassis. Parts may shift slightly, so try not to move things around much. It really is pretty simple. Have fun. 😎👍
If I went a 19t pinion for bashing ( Not Jumps, Just hard driving ) - Would i have to upgrade all 3 diffs ?
so how far is the distance with the heavier chassis compared to the stock?
It measured out to be about 6 feet. Not much, but some improvement.
Hi AJ, I've noticed Arrma now offer a 7075 upgraded Chassis for the Typhon. Due to me being in the UK this would be a significantly cheaper option than Bulletproof, M2C, Justbashit, etc. I don't suppose you have any knowledge of this chassis do you? I'm wondering if this makes more sense than being Tax and Import duty.
I haven't heard about them yet, but I will look into it. I'm actually waiting to see if Arrma puts out an EXB version of the Typhon. Thanks for the heads up.
Yeah the arrma one still bends, get M2C from badtouch breakers. Uk based, free shipping and the best chassis in market
Which version is the typhon?
I picked it up when I purchased my V4 Kraton. Does that make it a V4? I suppose it does. I know they came out with an upgraded one not to long ago. Thanks for the question. AJ
where did you get those white drawers from?
I built them. 😎👍
So I have the dx3 remote. For some reason it's got some delays in the reverse and from reverse into forward. I've only had it 2 months and don't have but about 3 or 4 runs in it.. any suggestions??
Good question. From reverse to forward and back all remotes for brushless systems have a delay until the car stops unless your system is sensored or a brushed one. It has to do with the motor indexing and the speed control. You must stop before changing directions. I hope this helps. 😎👍
So if I get a better remote with that do away with the delay?
No. This is common.
You need carbon fiber chassis from Matt at hotdog customs it kills any aluminum chassis
Send us the link to the chassis please.
It’s okay to say you’re using m2c. 😂
RC manufacturers should lean towards carbon fiber for the chassis and shock towers especially for bashers.
Rtr rc is the same as Lego nowadays. Doesn’t teach any discipline in assembling or building anymore.
True. Building is quickly becoming a lost art. But there are still those of us who began this hobby building our RCs from scratch. I hope building and repairing RCs stays with us as new people join the hobby. Building is half of the hobby for us here at the channel and "not wrenching" just feels wrong somehow. It can be so relaxing when done with no pressure. I can't imagine taking an RC into the hobby store to have it fixed. Thanks for commenting. 😎👍