Thank you sir for a clear overview of whys and how’s of using this attachment. I’ve learnt a lot from your clip. More than reading & studying. Food for thought and more investigation. Cheers.
Depends what you're doing. Cultipackers, the ones with the front and rear gangs of rollers and a couple rows of spring harrow tines in between, are good for breaking up cloddy ground, or working up fairly firm ground that was disked and say got rained on before it could really be crumbled... with the tines up, they're good for rolling in seed, because usually the ribs on the packers are "staggered" so they split the soil cupped up by the front rollers when it goes under the back rollers, and double rolling it packs it pretty tight, and ensures everything is sealed in pretty good. Course that can work to your DISADVANTAGE if it rains too much after seeding, or on soils/slopes prone to washing, as the soil packed tight and smooth provides little hindrance to water racing down it and washing. That's for seeded fields where you'd be running a cultipacker for rolling in seed. You could overseed in cover crops with a rolling basket, say if you spun the seed on, it'd do a good job of mixing the seed in lightly and provide a slight firming action, but probably not as good a job on small seeds as a cultipacker, but for big acreage, it'd be an acceptable method. For pure soil work, like preparing a seedbed, well, a lot depends on the cultipacker... I've seen some with "duckfoot" or "sheepsfoot" wheels in front on the front roller, to break up clods and shatter them, and provide a SLIGHT firming action; if you wanted more tillage you'd run the spring tines down but you risk bringing up unshattered clods, depending on the soil and conditions, then usually a smooth or crowned wheels on the back roller, to roll the ground tight and help break up remaining clods. It would prepare a good seedbed, particularly for overseeding small seeded crops like grasses or legumes. It'd do fine for row crops as well but probably a little overkill, and again you have to be careful as to how much firming and smoothing you do on sloped ground prone to washing or blowing... too smooth works against you there. The rolling basket does a little clodbreaking and leveling action with the front spring-loaded tine/boards, then the rolling baskets themselves do MOST of the clod breaking and firming action, one behind the other. There's actually different ways you can order a new basket set up, or you can swap around reels on a used basket and set it up for your liking. The front reels usually have the tine bars installed at an angle, sorta like "/" at the top of the reel if you were looking at it from the RH side. As it rolls forward, the POINT comes in contact with the ground or clods FIRST, on the EDGE, so it maximizes clod-crushing/chopping force. Then as it rolls into the soil at the bottom it's at an angle, pushing down and forward slightly on the soil to firm it up, then as it continues rolling the bars flip the material UP and toss it in the air, breaking off pieces or chunks of clods lodged against it, giving it a "flick" in the air to break it up, then the rear reel behind it is usually just a regular star pattern like this "*" with straight tine bars radially aligned outward from the axle.. So when they hit the ground it's hitting at an angle, the reel rolls over it and twists it upright, and then as it rolls past it lifts out of the soil and tosses whatever's laying on it, but it basically firms the soil in a "V" pattern as it rolls over the soil, where the angled reels 'dig in' in front and then POP out of the ground nearly flat... You CAN reverse the reels by taking off the front row and flipping them around, and get the front row looking like this "\" at the top, the bars sloped BACK instead of forward... when they enter the soil in this orientation, they basically are hitting the ground ON THEIR FLAT SIDES, and then as the basket rolls over it, they leave the soil "standing upright" and doing more packing than flicking material up on the air. This would provide maximum packing effect, particularly if you reversed the rear straight tine radial bar arrangement reels to the front, and put the front ones on back reversed from the "aggressive" rotation of the bars pointing forwards. Since most guys are running baskets mainly to break clods and yet get a slight firming effect prior to planting with a drill or planter, which will do it's final "packing' in around the seed via press wheels or furrow closing wheels, you don't see many rolling baskets set up that way, but the book DOES tell you how to set it up for more packing and less clod breaking or soil disturbance by swapping reels around and their rotation directions... Clear as mud? LOL:) Later! OL J R :)
Seen a lot of these unverferth rolling harrows that get bought when the baskets are toast. Bring it to the welding shop, making new rollers out of 3/4 inch rebar.
Yep of cut out the old blades weld in new 1/4 X 3 or 4 flat iron, guys as new. Shame they didn't make them like my Caldwell rolling stalk choppers that I have in other videos on my channel. They use bolt on blades so replacing them it's easy
Thank you sir for a clear overview of whys and how’s of using this attachment. I’ve learnt a lot from your clip. More than reading & studying. Food for thought and more investigation. Cheers.
Your welcome... Why I made the vid! 😎👍🖖. OL J R
Is there a better advantage to a cultapacker to the basket? Or vice versa ?
A cullipacker will drag when is muddy
Depends what you're doing. Cultipackers, the ones with the front and rear gangs of rollers and a couple rows of spring harrow tines in between, are good for breaking up cloddy ground, or working up fairly firm ground that was disked and say got rained on before it could really be crumbled... with the tines up, they're good for rolling in seed, because usually the ribs on the packers are "staggered" so they split the soil cupped up by the front rollers when it goes under the back rollers, and double rolling it packs it pretty tight, and ensures everything is sealed in pretty good. Course that can work to your DISADVANTAGE if it rains too much after seeding, or on soils/slopes prone to washing, as the soil packed tight and smooth provides little hindrance to water racing down it and washing. That's for seeded fields where you'd be running a cultipacker for rolling in seed. You could overseed in cover crops with a rolling basket, say if you spun the seed on, it'd do a good job of mixing the seed in lightly and provide a slight firming action, but probably not as good a job on small seeds as a cultipacker, but for big acreage, it'd be an acceptable method.
For pure soil work, like preparing a seedbed, well, a lot depends on the cultipacker... I've seen some with "duckfoot" or "sheepsfoot" wheels in front on the front roller, to break up clods and shatter them, and provide a SLIGHT firming action; if you wanted more tillage you'd run the spring tines down but you risk bringing up unshattered clods, depending on the soil and conditions, then usually a smooth or crowned wheels on the back roller, to roll the ground tight and help break up remaining clods. It would prepare a good seedbed, particularly for overseeding small seeded crops like grasses or legumes. It'd do fine for row crops as well but probably a little overkill, and again you have to be careful as to how much firming and smoothing you do on sloped ground prone to washing or blowing... too smooth works against you there. The rolling basket does a little clodbreaking and leveling action with the front spring-loaded tine/boards, then the rolling baskets themselves do MOST of the clod breaking and firming action, one behind the other. There's actually different ways you can order a new basket set up, or you can swap around reels on a used basket and set it up for your liking. The front reels usually have the tine bars installed at an angle, sorta like "/" at the top of the reel if you were looking at it from the RH side. As it rolls forward, the POINT comes in contact with the ground or clods FIRST, on the EDGE, so it maximizes clod-crushing/chopping force. Then as it rolls into the soil at the bottom it's at an angle, pushing down and forward slightly on the soil to firm it up, then as it continues rolling the bars flip the material UP and toss it in the air, breaking off pieces or chunks of clods lodged against it, giving it a "flick" in the air to break it up, then the rear reel behind it is usually just a regular star pattern like this "*" with straight tine bars radially aligned outward from the axle.. So when they hit the ground it's hitting at an angle, the reel rolls over it and twists it upright, and then as it rolls past it lifts out of the soil and tosses whatever's laying on it, but it basically firms the soil in a "V" pattern as it rolls over the soil, where the angled reels 'dig in' in front and then POP out of the ground nearly flat... You CAN reverse the reels by taking off the front row and flipping them around, and get the front row looking like this "\" at the top, the bars sloped BACK instead of forward... when they enter the soil in this orientation, they basically are hitting the ground ON THEIR FLAT SIDES, and then as the basket rolls over it, they leave the soil "standing upright" and doing more packing than flicking material up on the air. This would provide maximum packing effect, particularly if you reversed the rear straight tine radial bar arrangement reels to the front, and put the front ones on back reversed from the "aggressive" rotation of the bars pointing forwards.
Since most guys are running baskets mainly to break clods and yet get a slight firming effect prior to planting with a drill or planter, which will do it's final "packing' in around the seed via press wheels or furrow closing wheels, you don't see many rolling baskets set up that way, but the book DOES tell you how to set it up for more packing and less clod breaking or soil disturbance by swapping reels around and their rotation directions...
Clear as mud? LOL:) Later! OL J R :)
Seen a lot of these unverferth rolling harrows that get bought when the baskets are toast. Bring it to the welding shop, making new rollers out of 3/4 inch rebar.
Yep of cut out the old blades weld in new 1/4 X 3 or 4 flat iron, guys as new. Shame they didn't make them like my Caldwell rolling stalk choppers that I have in other videos on my channel. They use bolt on blades so replacing them it's easy
Who knew the legendary Luke strawwalker looked like that lol
Yep some of us have a face made for radio LOL:) OL J R :)
Disk in the spring 🥱
Oh well you can't imagine how much sleep I'm losing because you're bored. How bout you take off then. OL J R :)