Nice Mark. If I may add a comment about the question below about using Doculam only. I have done this several times, I have painted Doculam, but it tends to flake off fairly quickly. One thing I learned the hard way, Doculam is NOT waterproof. I covered the wings of a float plane with doculam, added some trim using monokote, but within a season or so, water came right through. Will get some tissue and try this method as well.
That sellotape use is brilliant. Exellent video. When doing woodwork projects I find water based polyurethane hopeless. I wondered if you could avoid one stage by spraying polyurethane rather than water. I fly free flight and use tissue over Mylar. A similar process. The Mylar is doped after shrinking and the tissue laid on wet, wrinkles brushed out with thinners. It works well on flat and undercamber Ed surfaces but convex wing tops are more difficult.
Hi, thanks for the comment, great appreciated. I like the initial water stage because it gives you unlimited time to position the tissue and get it just right, the water relaxing the tissue with time so its a better fit, if polyurethane is used in the initial stage you would not have this as it starts to dry quicker. I have experimented with just brushing on the polyurethane instead of spraying with water but it doesn't soak through the tissue as well. Never tried doping it on. Always good to try different techniques 😀
@@MarkRobinson555 you mentioned at the field that some had doubted the repairability of the material but you have clearly laid that to rest with that video well done.
Thank you for sharing and making such a detailed instructional video. Ona a side note, I was wondering if using doculam as a cheap transparent alternative to oracover is feasible. Could you tell me if it is as durable without the tissue paper on top as oracover clear?
Thanks for the comment, it's appreciated. Yes it would be absolutely fine without the tissue, you can get various thicknesses, I used 38 micron, which would be fine for upto a 50-60" model I would think, and if for a larger model you could get thicker film
After watching the covering demonstration, this is an excellent follow up. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment, pleased you found it useful 😀
Nice Mark. If I may add a comment about the question below about using Doculam only. I have done this several times, I have painted Doculam, but it tends to flake off fairly quickly. One thing I learned the hard way, Doculam is NOT waterproof. I covered the wings of a float plane with doculam, added some trim using monokote, but within a season or so, water came right through. Will get some tissue and try this method as well.
Thanks for the info Steve, it's really appreciated, pleased you like the video
Thanks Mark. I have Mercury Galahad to cover the finish looks just right for a model of that age, not to mention the modeller ☺️
Thank you for the comment, pleased you liked the video 😀
"Almost ready to... OOPS!" How many times I have done the same. :)
Excellent tutorial. Many thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
That sellotape use is brilliant. Exellent video. When doing woodwork projects I find water based polyurethane hopeless. I wondered if you could avoid one stage by spraying polyurethane rather than water. I fly free flight and use tissue over Mylar. A similar process. The Mylar is doped after shrinking and the tissue laid on wet, wrinkles brushed out with thinners. It works well on flat and undercamber Ed surfaces but convex wing tops are more difficult.
Hi, thanks for the comment, great appreciated. I like the initial water stage because it gives you unlimited time to position the tissue and get it just right, the water relaxing the tissue with time so its a better fit, if polyurethane is used in the initial stage you would not have this as it starts to dry quicker. I have experimented with just brushing on the polyurethane instead of spraying with water but it doesn't soak through the tissue as well. Never tried doping it on. Always good to try different techniques 😀
Again thank you for sharing
My pleasure!
Great video, very helpful
Thank you, pleased you found it helpful, appreciate the comment 😀
Nice work. Always learning something.🙂
Thank you very much for the comments, really pleased you find the videos helpful 😀
very good! 🙂
Thank you 😊
Excellent 👍
Thanks Cliff 😀
Should convert the sceptic 🤨 good demo.
Thanks Mark, glad you liked the video. What's the Sceptic?
@@MarkRobinson555 you mentioned at the field that some had doubted the repairability of the material but you have clearly laid that to rest with that video well done.
Ah, skeptics/doubters
You mentioned you had a few bubbles and poked them out. Do you need to provide vent holes to prevent ballooning of the Doculam?
Yes, always worth putting in a vent hole or two! 😀
Thank you for sharing and making such a detailed instructional video.
Ona a side note, I was wondering if using doculam as a cheap transparent alternative to oracover is feasible.
Could you tell me if it is as durable without the tissue paper on top as oracover clear?
Thanks for the comment, it's appreciated. Yes it would be absolutely fine without the tissue, you can get various thicknesses, I used 38 micron, which would be fine for upto a 50-60" model I would think, and if for a larger model you could get thicker film
@@MarkRobinson555 Thanks for the info!