Hi there. Thanks for watching my video. It was the first one I made and I'd really appreciate any constructive comments. I know it is a bit long, but I'm trying to make my latest videos shorter and more "bite size"
The tensioner pulley... that torx in the aluminium casting always shreds off... There is another solid steel one right in the centre of its wheel, if you use a flat screwdriver and remove the plastic cap on the wheel, you'll see it - it's much better releasing the tension that way... and it seems that does not shred... same torx 50 key. Oh... just watched the video further and you exposed that second torx too :)
Thanks for this video Sid, I’m going to give the job a go on my Polo. I suspect the current is original on 105,000 miles and find that it’s quietly hissing/squeaking when running. The tensioner doesn’t appear to be seized so will also perform a bearing check 👍🏻
My auxiliary belt broke.The garage I took it to for repair also said that in addition to a new belt I would also need a new tensioner due to damage being caused when the belt broke.Is this normal to get such damage or are they being cautious or increasing my repair costs unnecessarily.Any advice would be much appreciated.Thank you.
I'd say they are being cautious. The trouble is, if they find the tensioner is damaged, they'll have to get one in and meanwhile they'll have to push your car off the ramp and back on again. This could cost you more in labour and ramp time than the tensioner is worth. And you could be without your car for longer. Plus, legally they have to warrant the repair and last thing they need is you back in a month because the tensioner pulley bearings are squeeling! You might say they should have done it properly in the first place.
Hi friend , thanks for the informative video . How can we check if the idler pulley and tensioner are fine or not . Can idler pulley and tensioner repaired/fixed in case of pulley issues or it needs replacement only .
The tensioner is purely mechanical. As long as it's not broken it should be fine once cleaned up. The pulley runs on a bearing, which is sealed. As long as the bearing isn't letting in dirt & water and continues to run smooth, it should be fine. Yes, the pulley can be removed and the bearing replaced, provided you can source a bearing of the correct size, but only you can decide if it's worth the hassle or whether to get a new pulley/tensioner.
@@CycloneCyd Thanks for the informative video. One point to be added in the video . There is a locking position to insert a small pin to keep the tensioner in the upper position to place the Vbelt easly. I replaced my V-Belt and also had to change the Tensioner.But after changing the Tensioner and Vbelt , I am getting a strange noise [engine thudering] in slow speeds, especially when changing gears below 30kmph. The sound goes away with speed. There are no errors in VCDS . I have hand tighted the tensioner and was afraid as the bolt and assembly were aluminium made and was afraid of breaking it / thread tear . Any suggestions for the engine sound issue at low speeds .
How woundered if you could help, I cracked two tensioners so far 😅, tightened to 40nm and then when lifting to slide belt on the actual tensioner snaps were it mates onto bull head, what am I doing wrong
Hi there new to this channel, I'm a mechanic in training half way through my level 2 nvq now and work at a garage on days not at collage, I find you videos informative and interesting, just one thought when removing the belt as the tensioner was stripped out why didn't you cut belt off ?? Just think there is a chance you could cause damage to the block or head or other auxiliaries when getting a bar in to remove belt, not saying what you did was wrong just preventing more work
Thanks for a great video and clear, down to earth explanations. I've got a 2005 Fox, which is the same 3cyl 1,2 engine. Hard to find anything on it, but thankfully videos on Polos are abundant. User manual recommends a change of auxillary belt every 90,000kms (60,000mi). Mine has 111000kms so definitely due. When did you change yours? Cheers!
Around 60k miles is usual for change interval. We bought the car with 90k on the clock and didn't know if the belt had been changed ever. Ours was also badly contaminated. It was also slipping on the alternator due to the seized tensioner. I've just released this, you might also find it useful: th-cam.com/video/vYwikatrLlo/w-d-xo.html
Arts&Trusts Thanks for watching. It is the cam cover gasket weeping. It's very minor but when I filmed this we'd only just got the car and it clearly had never been cleaned. An annual clean down is doing the trick at the moment.
Sir what is the life of tensioner my vw polo 1.2 petrol 90k km done i never change v belt or tensioner now am thinking to change v belt but confuse need to change tensioner or only v belt
YES, change the belt. Tensioner should last forever, but inspect it, especially bearings. They should operate smoothly. Clean all pulleys with brake cleaner before putting new belt on.
Good video, but all I needed from this video was on 7:30 where to position the tensioner :( the only way mine sits touches the alt pulley.... Can't be right
midnite fawn The tensioner pulley can rest againt the alternator pulley when their is no belt fitted. Once the belt is fitted and the tensioer is rotated counter clockwise to create spring tension it will be about 2cm away from the alternator pulley. If they are touching with the belt fitted, then yes there is something wrong! Check the following: 1. correct belt? compare length of new and old 2. alternator mounted properly and firmly 3. water pump and pulley properly mounted 4. correctly routed the belt? I've put a picture of a non aircon belt route here: drive.google.com/file/d/0B0vcrimDejOtQlZyTXZOb2VvbEU/view?usp=sharing note the non aircon has no idler pulley Hope that helps.
Forever if you look after it. I change oil and flush every 5000 to 6000 on the whole family fleet If not looked after it could easily be knackered in 75,000 miles. Important with these 3cyl engines to use high octane fuel (97 RON) - they are otherwise prone to burning #2 exhaust valves.
I translate that as: Good evening. I have a question. At a Polo, 2006 model. Engine 1.2, 47kw gasoline. Is the same scheme for mounting the transmission belt? Yes. It should be = Da, ar trebui să fie Thanks for watching. I hope this helps you, despite the language barrier Multumesc pentru vizionare. Sper că acest lucru vă ajută, în ciuda barierei lingvistice I have a Romanian friend at work so if you have anymore questions don't hesitate to ask Am un prieten român la serviciu, deci, dacă aveți întrebări, nu ezitați să întrebați I do hope Google Translate got all that right, lol
Hi Remi, thanks for watching and interacting. Water pumps driven by timing belts are usually internal to the engine (eg Fiat derived 1.9 diesel in many Vauxhall/Opels) and changing them requires a new timing belt (NEVER re-use a timing belt), thus even a small weep of coolant from a pump can turn into an expensive exercise to repair. Thus it is common practice to replace such pumps when changing a timing belt as the extra cost of the pump is small compared to the cost of the job or risk of failure. In this instance, the belt is an external auxiliary belt which is cheap and easy to replace. Also the pump is external to the engine and also easy to replace. The costs of repair (and risks involved) in case of pump failure are relatively low, so "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" is perfectly valid.
anis marseni I think you missed the point. The belt is being replaced so damaging it getting it off hardly matters any. I wouldn't ever recommend refitting a used belt.
what a fucking job if you buy a new tensioner and it hasent got the star key on the pully ur fucked my new one i put the right size key in and it stripped it immediately rubbish design ull have to use a crow bar to get it on like i did
Hi there. Thanks for watching my video. It was the first one I made and I'd really appreciate any constructive comments.
I know it is a bit long, but I'm trying to make my latest videos shorter and more "bite size"
The tensioner pulley... that torx in the aluminium casting always shreds off... There is another solid steel one right in the centre of its wheel, if you use a flat screwdriver and remove the plastic cap on the wheel, you'll see it - it's much better releasing the tension that way... and it seems that does not shred... same torx 50 key.
Oh... just watched the video further and you exposed that second torx too :)
Thanks very much for this, saved me the hassle and expense of using a mechanic, followed your instructions and perfect job done!
Thanks Amy. Pleased it was of help.
If you've any requests, just ask
Thanks for the video. You just saved me large recovery van fee to change the belt!
Спасибо за отличное видео и за полную информацию.здоровья тебе мил человек.
This video will save VW owners many £ hundreds from what the main dealer charges for this job. LIKED and subscribed.
And it's not that difficult either. Yeah, dealers just rip you off
This is a move i was looking for. Everything is explained from start to finish.
Thank you for this movie. You helped me
Un grand merci pour ta vidéo ! J'ai pu réparer ma voiture moi meme :)
Ciao grazie per le spiegazioni e video che fai e buon 2021 grazie
Welcome aboard. Stay safe
Benvenuto a bordo. Rimanga sicuro
You can also lift the tensioner from the center by popping the cover and inserting a torx bit . Edit: And you demonstrated it on re-assembly!
Great info, well worth knowing, but yeah, got it covered! lol
Thanks for this video Sid, I’m going to give the job a go on my Polo. I suspect the current is original on 105,000 miles and find that it’s quietly hissing/squeaking when running. The tensioner doesn’t appear to be seized so will also perform a bearing check 👍🏻
Kudos, my friend, for a very helpful video!
Thanks. This was the first video I ever made and uploaded, but it has proven popular so I keep it despite the poor videography
very good instruction, I will do my polo myself without a problem
Thanks Korben. It's awkward, but not difficult. Keep the faith!
Brilliant, thank you. In reference to your comment yes, make some more, very informative indeed.
Thanks Pete. More to come but just taking a little summer break right now.
Hi great vid does the idler have to come off to gain access or can you do it without taking it off
Excellent Video...,Greetings from India...
Thanks. Where in India. I've a friend in Pune
Hi,
Just wondering did that pully tensioner bolt have "loctite" on it?
Great video much appreciated, taking on the job tomorrow
No thread lock that I remember. Did it go okay?
Very nice 👍
Nice channel, subbed ! 👍🏻
Thanks! Welcome aboard 👍👍
You're welcome :)
My auxiliary belt broke.The garage I took it to for repair also said that in addition to a new belt I would also need a new tensioner due to damage being caused when the belt broke.Is this normal to get such damage or are they being cautious or increasing my repair costs unnecessarily.Any advice would be much appreciated.Thank you.
I'd say they are being cautious. The trouble is, if they find the tensioner is damaged, they'll have to get one in and meanwhile they'll have to push your car off the ramp and back on again. This could cost you more in labour and ramp time than the tensioner is worth. And you could be without your car for longer. Plus, legally they have to warrant the repair and last thing they need is you back in a month because the tensioner pulley bearings are squeeling! You might say they should have done it properly in the first place.
Hi friend , thanks for the informative video . How can we check if the idler pulley and tensioner are fine or not . Can idler pulley and tensioner repaired/fixed in case of pulley issues or it needs replacement only .
The tensioner is purely mechanical. As long as it's not broken it should be fine once cleaned up. The pulley runs on a bearing, which is sealed. As long as the bearing isn't letting in dirt & water and continues to run smooth, it should be fine. Yes, the pulley can be removed and the bearing replaced, provided you can source a bearing of the correct size, but only you can decide if it's worth the hassle or whether to get a new pulley/tensioner.
@@CycloneCyd Thanks for the informative video. One point to be added in the video . There is a locking position to insert a small pin to keep the tensioner in the upper position to place the Vbelt easly. I replaced my V-Belt and also had to change the Tensioner.But after changing the Tensioner and Vbelt , I am getting a strange noise [engine thudering] in slow speeds, especially when changing gears below 30kmph. The sound goes away with speed. There are no errors in VCDS . I have hand tighted the tensioner and was afraid as the bolt and assembly were aluminium made and was afraid of breaking it / thread tear . Any suggestions for the engine sound issue at low speeds .
How woundered if you could help, I cracked two tensioners so far 😅, tightened to 40nm and then when lifting to slide belt on the actual tensioner snaps were it mates onto bull head, what am I doing wrong
Brilliant video.
l have the same engine,but it is a newer car model.l wonder if i can break something with that engine when I change my belt?
I doubt it, unless you're seriously ham fisted
Can i find it on the market ?
Hi there new to this channel, I'm a mechanic in training half way through my level 2 nvq now and work at a garage on days not at collage, I find you videos informative and interesting, just one thought when removing the belt as the tensioner was stripped out why didn't you cut belt off ?? Just think there is a chance you could cause damage to the block or head or other auxiliaries when getting a bar in to remove belt, not saying what you did was wrong just preventing more work
If the belt was cut off and then one found one had got the wrong spare ...... be up shit creek❗
Thanks for a great video and clear, down to earth explanations. I've got a 2005 Fox, which is the same 3cyl 1,2 engine. Hard to find anything on it, but thankfully videos on Polos are abundant.
User manual recommends a change of auxillary belt every 90,000kms (60,000mi). Mine has 111000kms so definitely due. When did you change yours?
Cheers!
Around 60k miles is usual for change interval. We bought the car with 90k on the clock and didn't know if the belt had been changed ever. Ours was also badly contaminated. It was also slipping on the alternator due to the seized tensioner. I've just released this, you might also find it useful: th-cam.com/video/vYwikatrLlo/w-d-xo.html
@@CycloneCyd thank you!
Complimenti!
What is the number of the belt?
What is the number of the belt
Which no belt use?? Anyone suggest
with AC bit.ly/aux_belt_Polo_12_cw_ac
without ac bit.ly/aux_belt_polo_12_wo_ac
Great video. Can i ask where the oil leak was coming from? Thanks
Arts&Trusts
Thanks for watching. It is the cam cover gasket weeping. It's very minor but when I filmed this we'd only just got the car and it clearly had never been cleaned. An annual clean down is doing the trick at the moment.
Sir what is the life of tensioner my vw polo 1.2 petrol 90k km done i never change v belt or tensioner now am thinking to change v belt but confuse need to change tensioner or only v belt
YES, change the belt. Tensioner should last forever, but inspect it, especially bearings. They should operate smoothly. Clean all pulleys with brake cleaner before putting new belt on.
Ok thx brother u mean no need to change tensioner i will change only belt
@@preet22able correct. But inspect the tensioner, it's usually the bearings on the pulley wheel that go.
If it ain't broke don't fix it 👍
Was the there a wherrrrrring noise like a spaceship, while it was at idle, before you replaced the tensioner?
TheGuyInTheCorner747 no this one had no noise. Could be the bearing. Use a mechanics stethoscope to listen to it. See my listen for faults video
Good video, but all I needed from this video was on 7:30 where to position the tensioner :( the only way mine sits touches the alt pulley.... Can't be right
midnite fawn
The tensioner pulley can rest againt the alternator pulley when their is no belt fitted. Once the belt is fitted and the tensioer is rotated counter clockwise to create spring tension it will be about 2cm away from the alternator pulley.
If they are touching with the belt fitted, then yes there is something wrong!
Check the following:
1. correct belt? compare length of new and old
2. alternator mounted properly and firmly
3. water pump and pulley properly mounted
4. correctly routed the belt?
I've put a picture of a non aircon belt route here:
drive.google.com/file/d/0B0vcrimDejOtQlZyTXZOb2VvbEU/view?usp=sharing
note the non aircon has no idler pulley
Hope that helps.
Top tips. Thanks :)
Great video!!
What's the lifetime of this engine? How long it will run?
Forever if you look after it. I change oil and flush every 5000 to 6000 on the whole family fleet
If not looked after it could easily be knackered in 75,000 miles.
Important with these 3cyl engines to use high octane fuel (97 RON) - they are otherwise prone to burning #2 exhaust valves.
Cyclone Cyd Maximum kms you driven as of now?
Manikandan Ganesan that Polo has 124000 miles. So about 200000km
Beets me why you didn’t use the lever to take the tension of the pully instead of trying to lever the rubber off
What would happen if the tensioner was too tight when putting it back in place
Buna seara. am si eu o intrebare. la un Polo, model din 2006. motor de 1.2, 47kw benzina. este aceasi schema la montarea curelei de transmisie?
I translate that as:
Good evening. I have a question. At a Polo, 2006 model. Engine 1.2, 47kw gasoline. Is the same scheme for mounting the transmission belt?
Yes. It should be = Da, ar trebui să fie
Thanks for watching. I hope this helps you, despite the language barrier
Multumesc pentru vizionare. Sper că acest lucru vă ajută, în ciuda barierei lingvistice
I have a Romanian friend at work so if you have anymore questions don't hesitate to ask
Am un prieten român la serviciu, deci, dacă aveți întrebări, nu ezitați să întrebați
I do hope Google Translate got all that right, lol
DA
Mulțumesc
Thank You, Cyclone Cyd
Why didn't you replace the water pump as you would do for a timing belt replacement ?
Hi Remi, thanks for watching and interacting. Water pumps driven by timing belts are usually internal to the engine (eg Fiat derived 1.9 diesel in many Vauxhall/Opels) and changing them requires a new timing belt (NEVER re-use a timing belt), thus even a small weep of coolant from a pump can turn into an expensive exercise to repair. Thus it is common practice to replace such pumps when changing a timing belt as the extra cost of the pump is small compared to the cost of the job or risk of failure.
In this instance, the belt is an external auxiliary belt which is cheap and easy to replace. Also the pump is external to the engine and also easy to replace. The costs of repair (and risks involved) in case of pump failure are relatively low, so "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" is perfectly valid.
Why didn’t you just use the t50 in the top pulley to loosen and remove the belt rather than prise the belt off
Hi
and hello to you too
Good and clean work but i didn't like the way u removed the belt in the begining u could scratch it and hello squeaking again
anis marseni
I think you missed the point. The belt is being replaced so damaging it getting it off hardly matters any.
I wouldn't ever recommend refitting a used belt.
what a fucking job if you buy a new tensioner and it hasent got the star key on the pully
ur fucked my new one i put the right size key in and it stripped it immediately rubbish design
ull have to use a crow bar to get it on like i did
alan jones I fully agree what you are saying