Ubiquiti ETH-SP
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- A look at the ETH-SP Ethernet Surge Protector from Ubiquiti Networks.
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The crimp on that blue cable is killing me!
The ONLY video about this surge protector that shows how to properly attach and ground it to a steel pole.... THANK YOU !!
You should do a follow up with the surge protection and the importance of using tough cable or at least a high quality shielded cable. There is also the importance of a good ground but that might be going too far into how to do electrical work. I can definitely say from experience it does not pay to cheap out when grounding these devices, they are extremely sensitive to static in the air.
Very good point!
From my experience most of the damage caused by lightning comes not from a direct hit (direct hit would vaporize that surge protector and everything behind it), but mostly from induced current in the long lines. Let's say you have 200ft ethernet cable running in the attic - it would act as a big receiving antenna that would "pickup" lightning strike just like any other radio wave and send that induced voltage down to the equipment, on both sides of the wire (that's why it's a good idea to have surge protectors on both sides). Or just use fiber for the long runs.
Good point - thanks for the feedback!
Exactly. A multi-thousand Amp lightning bolt will easily pass through all of that and melt the switch into slag. Probably set the house on fire just for giggles. Best you can hope for with surge protectors is to send induced currents from nearby strikes (tens of meters away) to ground and *maybe* only lose part of your gear.
Hi Andrey,
I would like your opinion on the grounding as I ask below.
I am about to install a bridge between two buildings using Ubiquiti NBE-5AC-16 NanoBeam AC and am very interested in fitting the ETH-SP at each end of the cat6 shielded cables.
I am in the UK and I am not an electrician so my questions is can the ground wire be connected to the existing electrical fuse panel earth block as inserting a ground spike is not practical in my situation? IF not do you have any other suggestions?
Having a common ground is important so if your building electrical ground is up to your local codes - you should use it. I don't think ETH-SP is actually doing anything with STP though (I mean it should not use shielding as a path for overvoltage to escape).
Thanks for your quick reply.
The weak link in the surge protector is the trace size and copper weight / thickness on its circuit board. If you have a large amount of energy from a close lighting strike the protection device will attempt to pass that energy to ground via the copper trace. The problem is that the copper trace will open up and this allows the energy to pass through to the device it is trying to protect. With that said I use this device to protect my equipment. I do place one at both ends of the cable.
Good video. But a surge protector does not and can not protect anything from a direct lightening strike. It protects from a build up of charges associated with a lightening storm whether it be from a nearby strike or a charged atmosphere.
From O-ring to hose clamp. Chris is learning :)
Always be learning!
So glad I bought 4 about a month ago for a wireless bridge I set up!! Boom feels good to have done something right!!! Thanks Chris from not telling me I failed again!! Lol! Keep up the quality work!
Usually it is enough to have one of these surge protectors right at the point where the data line enters the building.
You have to watch the building as a hull. Every conductive line, whether it being for power, data or terrestial, which is penetrating that, needs to be protected at the point of entry, so the hull's integrity stays intact. You can still mount such devices within the building. You "just" have to run the additional ground wire to the central grounding point of the building.
And that is only one point, where the "hairs on my neck are standing up" (as we say in Germany), when I see all the lines strapped to the outside wall of Chris's house the way they are and not properly installed inside the wall, within some cable piping.
But I am sure that's only another difference in electrical installation codes...
Good example thanks from Ecuador 🇪🇨 Latin American
Hi Chris, I think your black-ethernet cable isn't ideally suited for this task. You should use a shielded cable/connector. For my home install of G3 Ubiquity cams I got myself a spool of ToughCarrier cable as it has the cross-talk divider (which regular ToughCable does not have). I also got a pack of the Tough Connectors which have an easy-crimp feature for the ESD drain wire.
Another point to note is that lightning does not have to hit your device/pole directly. Even if say a storm is brewing in the area, may be a 1-2 KM away, the lightning flash (discharge) can still induce a surge-current in your cabling. Another concept is Ground Potential Rise (GPR) which takes place when lightning hits the earth close to the vicinity of your site/equipment; again a large surge will be induced into your cabling.
I've also started using EZRJ connectors as these RJ45 jacks are typically easier to crimp, and they also sell a Cat 5e/6 shielded connector; I'm using these in covered indoor/outdoor areas. www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/906541-REG/platinum_tools_100021c_ez_rj45_shielded_cat5e_6.html
Yes - others have made the same point. These are all examples - not real world implementations.
Sorry, yeah I saw the video late, commented and only then saw the other responses. Overall decent video though.
If lighting hits that your switch and everything connected to it is fried. That is for esd not direct or close by lightning strikes. Also you need stp between boxes and you need two of them. Also you Can't ground to pole like that and ground inside to house electrical ground without causing a ground loop.
Thanks for the demo and info, have a great day
If i use a POE Injector, schould i also use an ETH-SP? I Mean, the POE Injector is also grounde thru the powerplug (Europe/Austria).
Any suggestions?
Nice one Chris.
I have a couple of IP CCTV Cams to get from a Quarry to an out building via 2 M2 Locos.
I think these would help with the system.
Who makes that flat braided patch eth cable you used from the radio to the ETH-SP? Is it outdoor rated for UV and weather?
You should always use shielded cable as well.. the SP is mainly use to ground static and a normal cat5 will not drain ..
Yes - in a production outdoor environment, you want to use the outdoor rated cable.
Hi, from the antenna to the sp, you should use a grounded or ungrounded cable?
If lightning hits that pole right next to your house, your house will be on fire and I'd worry much more about your house than your network. Recommendation, use a wood or fiberglass pole and move it further from your house.
Thank you Chris.
Hello Chriss, it is necessary to place the 2 current protectors on both ends ... that is ... is not 1 single enough? also seen in other videos that use a tough cable with rj45 connectors with small cable, which they use to ground ... this is also necessary? .. Regards.
How would you wire the ground for one of these inside a house?
there must be a physical ground bar connected to a buried copper rod
Can you have a power injector conected trought it too?
y en el otro extremo no se coloca tambien el protector? hay que tener pozo a tierra tambien? para enviar la descarga.. ?
I know lightning will follow the path of least resistance, but what is to prevent it from inducing a lesser (but still system frying) current to the copper ethernet cord partially wrapped around the metal pole you indicated would be struck by lightning? I would think to just use these at the ethernet entry points to the house, where the subsequent network cables would be less exposed.
Are there any adapters or similar devices that you could recommend for the other copper entry point into your network (for most people): the coax cable running to the modem?
But what does it do to your throughput, especially if you put one on both ends of the line? These devices are notorious for degrading the connection (1Gbit down to 100 Mbit for example) despite their claims. Even Amazon reviews of this particular device reveal similar problems. I really like Ubiquiti products, but for this one, I would like to see you do a throughput test through two of these devices.
We have deployed a ton of these, and I have not noticed any degradation in Ethernet speeds.
Hmmm
With that hole in the pole, you will be letting pass rain water inside of the pole. How do you avoid that?
Awesome video Chris! 🤘
For a professional installer, can I ask why you have not installed that Cat5/6 into conduit since it's outside?
Hi Chris, great videos always… one Q: shouldn’t you put one Ethernet surge protector also inside between the outdoor cable and the switch ?
Hello Criss. How are doing. I just want make an inquiry if its possible to connect two stations and then sent them to one access point. Thank you so much for your educational support and videos.
Why aren't you using a grounded connector from the device to the ETH-SP?
Why would you use two? And if using one is that good enough? 🤔
Hey Chris, have you ever used the Ubiquiti F-POE Optical Data Transport for Outdoor PoE Devices? The fiber couldn't carry the electrical surge back also..?
Also you can use this to extend signal to transmitter/receivers if it is longer than the 100m max Ethernet lengths.
Very strange echoing in the sound of this video.. or is it just me? It's like you have multiple mics.
It's a noise reduction filter since I was outside.
Crosstalk Solutions oh I see! Makes sense! Love your videos mate! Keep them coming :)
Do you use these for outdoor camera’s on a house?
thank you man ....thanks you :)
Did you add reverb to the audio?
Why not do ground the manostation directly
Hey Chris, any recommendation on what type of grounding cable to use with this device?
Also the type of Ethernet cable to use on exterior devices should be shielded and uv rated like the uniquiti tough cable to add additional esd protection besides the grounding cable and the sp.
Thanks again for the effort on putting this videos for us
Cheers 🍻
I like to use silver tinned OFC (oxygen free copper) cable. Easy to find at boat/marine shops (and sometimes car audio shops). The same shop will also sell silver tinned copper lugs to crimp on the end. Add some adhesive lined heat shrink and you're all set!
If possible, you can tie your ETH-SP into the grounding wire for a local dwelling (typically that will be at least 8' down). You can also provide your own grounding 8' down is recommended, but they do sell 4' grounding poles on Amazon for smaller deployments.
I would use a media converter and an optical cable. It is more save.
Gerhard A. E. Uhlhorn exactly. This will not protect against lightening.
@@JamesHaitch Yeah if they think a rinky dink piece of plastic and metal is going to stop a full on D-I-R-E-C-T lightning strike they're smoking crack
Wouldn't it be good if Ubiquiti just integrated the SP into their outdoor products? If the Nanostation is going to get fried I am sure the inputs to the SP would as well, so they may as well put the SP circuitry into the Nanostation. They could add a SP suffix to the Nanostation if they wanted to differentiate.
No since the SP takes the hit and you replace it after the hit takes it out. Building a device with it built in defeats the replacement low cost
@@Beachnative42 but both the SP and the device get wiped out so now you're replacing two devices instead of one. The SP only protects the devices on the other end after both the outdoor device and the SP have been zapped. It's cheaper having it built-in. Replacing one product instead of two is cheaper
Have you tried the Mikrotik mUPS? I would love a review video. It's a passive PoE injector with a built-in battery charger.
I install those and after 5 months it disconnect my network and found out this is the culprit. Any suggestions?
The Instructions say drain wire
No. It must be an earth ground. Neutral wires carry current. Connecting to a neutral wire is exactly opposite of what you are trying to achieve. You also don't want to connect to an electrical ground. It should be a dedicated earth ground for bonding your electronic systems.
So I may be being a bit of a simpleton here but if the pole is being used as ground, and is therefore itself grounded properly, and the ac is covered in plastic surely any lightning strike is going to hit the pole and go to earth. Where would current flow in order to knock out the ac?
The idea is that if lightning were to strike the pole, or one of the devices, the copper in the CAT5e cable would act as a conduit for the electrical surge and travel upstream to other equipment - and possibly damage it. The ETH-SP, when grounded properly, should be a roadblock for that kind of thing.
Crosstalk Solutions yup I understand that, but why would lightning strike the copper traces in the plastic box rather than the larger, higher bare metal pole with an easy route to ground (if it hasn’t why ground the device to it?)? In fact as you describe it the act of grounding the box to the pole would make it more likely as before there was no conductive path.
Listen - I don't understand the physics of lightning or electricity in general, so we're covering our bases here. I feel much more comfortable doing everything I can to prevent possible problems including installing ETH-SP's on at least one, if not both ends of any outdoor links. If you fully understand how a lightning strike will behave in your environment, and you don't see the need for these devices, then don't install them. Me personally, I don't take that chance.
nice video! Didn't even know they made those surge protectors. ha. Weird to hear some cathedral hall reverb following a slight delay when your outside..
Yea - I did noise reduction on the outdoor background noise, but I probably screwed something up. I'm not an audio engineer. Or professional cameraman. Or professional editor. I do what I can!
Thanks for the very useful videos. Is that a fence post that you are using and if so is it considered to be an acceptable grounding conductor? Also, how deep is the post into the ground?
No - a fence post would not be a proper ground unless it is burried deep enough. Typically, you would see the fence pole also connected to a proper grounding rod that is 8' in the ground.
@@CrosstalkSolutions why didn't you ground it?
Why do things have to "run" a given value? Why not simply say that a product costs x?
Different resellers will sell a given product at different prices.
wouldn't it have been cleaner to put a outlet on the outside of the wall lol running into you office? not to mention your using indoor cable outside...I hate wires that are visible or not in order it tells a lot about the work of the individual...
Could you please do some ufiber stuff
Any plans to touch on the fax module on freepbx 101 series?
I can't find allot of info on it.
Probably because faxing over VoIP is terrible.
Crosstalk Solutions good to know, what would you suggest for practical home use, maybe even secure?
2022 best coin is METAWAR
Chris we use a APC rack mount eth surge inside and outside we use the ubnt eth surge for our outside plant equipment it works perfectly like this. See the link below. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009YW7U/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AXT2BS7BHZYPESDT0DNG
left out a lot of important information about using shielded cable and connectors. Information that I'm trying to figure out right now :)
That is not a ground. You need to run a ground wire back to your service panel... As they idea of a rod or pole is a ground is a myth. As any over current device will try to return to the source. The source being the transformer. But they sure as hell sell a lot of ground rods.... As they require them at every light pole. If lightning hits the pole. But if you notice. it still destroys the ballast or transformer in the light pole. And should trip the breaker. It does nothing to protect the lights. One reason we require every pole be fused. As it will seek out the path back to the panel. ie Ohms law...
En Español por favor.
First thumbs-down Chris. The ETH is part of a system of grounding and bonding. More detail on using shielded cable with shielded connectors at a minimum. Next would be a minimum and maximum distance between the ETH and what it's protecting. The response time of a surge suppressor is critical for the distance. Given 1m/ns, you do the math to figure you standoff distance. It's a "good" video, but it's just not that simple. FYI: I had another brand of Ethernet transient voltage surge suppressor (TVSS) fail and take out the down stream equipment by applying POE power to data lines. Suckage.
Very good points - I look forward to your video on the subject.
I just ordered one using your affiliate link to deconstruct and test. I really do appreciate your videos!
You might enjoy looking closely at the specs in the Quick Start Guide along with the rest of the words. For one thing, the ETH specs de-rate the temperature specs of most AirMAX products. It gets cold here, and that is unsat for outdoor use. Given what the ETH is, not much of it makes any sense.
Just an FYI, it's not a perfect device. A strike will vaporize ~10 feet of STP. Ubiquiti' biggest downfall currently is a lack of grounding in the AirMax line (unlike AirFiber). In a full scale wisp deployment you'll still kill radios.
Wearing a condom doesn't stop all STD's, but it's still better to have one than not!
Crosstalk Solutions true. Should've said ports on devices. I've yet to actually have them work any better compared to traditional grounding practices. No, Ubiquiti isn't Cambium but when other vendors are offering equipment in the same price range as some of the Ubiquiti products you start wondering why they don't do it. Ubiquiti makes good products for the value, don't get me wrong there. I've just had to migrate away from them due to longer equipment service life on equipment with grounding design in mind.
It would be nice if Ubiquiti included this device built into the AC or Bridge and switches so one doesn't have to buy this unit. Annoying added costs.
@Yosako but the external unit, such as this device, isn't the only thing that goes bad. There seems to be a misconception here. The SP device goes bad typically after your external AP has already been hit. The SP then tries to protect from the surge getting to the rest of the equipment on the other end. If your SP gets fried while doing its job, it's because whatever was before it in-line got hit first.
First!!!! (Wow, 1 minute up and already 30 views, things are looking great for CS) Chris: did you use a reverb on the microphone?
No, he used hiss remove on the audio, causes that echo.
I did noise reduction on the outdoor shots - that's why it sounds a little weird.
th-cam.com/video/7NAhAOQexGQ/w-d-xo.html Why do you recommend two of them? Wouldn't the one closest to the AP take the hit and not send high voltage down to the switch? Granted at $14 each it's cheap insurance but if I can save a few $$$ I'm all for that.
Read the comment from Andrey Pevnev.
not the best drip loop.
"$200 or $300 dollar device"... I would like to know where you are shopping?! lol
That's the price for a 24 port Ubiquiti switch.
Not the POE version, which is $367 and what he was referring too.
Sandriell he gets a "slight discount".
I have the 24 port EdgeSwitch Lite in my office - it's $189 on Amazon. But the real point is that you want to protect your equipment.
Oh ok. Assumed you would have had a POE switch, guess not.
That thing will give you ZERO protection against a direct lightning hit.
Bad guidance....