Sam, the information you just shared is basically the holy grail of knowledge and what needs to be understood to make high quality knives that preform.
Great video very informative. If I could recommend a topic for another one of these Chalk talks is Distal tapering. You often notice that modern bladesmiths who make reproductions of historical knives and swords usually don't take into account the distal tapering of historical blades and often make them way too thick completely changing how the piece handles and fells in the hand compared to originals. They make them look the same but have completely different dynamics.
Great talk and I appreciate how you got somewhat into the weeds on this. You're quickly becoming one of my favorite blacksmithing/bladesmithing channels.
Brilliant!! Thank you so much. Scientific clarity. Love it!! The science or lack of it behind stabilizing wood scales would be a really interesting topic🙏🙏
Great to see you on a shorter version than the Saturday live streams... Not that they're not good just to long for me, seeing where I live and all. And as always great content in this new chalk talks series!!! Thanks Sam. Hope you are feeling better. Take care!
wow, super detailed and easy to understand lesson! first 20 seconds, automatic sub. I would suggest as another lesson 'practicality of fantasy knives - benefits and downsides of designs'.
This was another superb video. You are an excellent teacher. I'm going to be recommending your channel to my nephew who recently got interested in bladesmithing.
Pretty interesting talk. As I am still learning about perfect knife geometry this is very value-able. Would really like to see you pushing this further and explaining S-Grinds and companions.
Great info Sam. Thanks man. A good topic for another chalk talk might be blade anatomy/terminology- edge, spine, choil, tang etc etc. then you could drill down some more - hidden tangs, through tangs, full tang, threaded tang. Blade styles - clip point, drop point trailing drop point. Could be a good one? Whatever you do I’ll watch it 👍
Great information Sam and well explained as always. Really like this format support the comments below for additional topics. Looking forward to the next instalment. Cheers
Wow,non so come mai ho visto questo video solo ora😮,sei stato eccezionale,in Italia si tengono tutti i segreti per se,video molto istruttivo e grazie hai sottotitoli ho capito alla perfezione,bravo davvero e grazie💪🔥
Thats why I chose the Paramilitary 2 due to its blade geometry. I actually bought the PM2 clone Ganzo 729. I dispatched my dog with it an the blade went in between the ribs like butter and out even easier. That sold me to this blade geometry and I ordered some more of these Ganzo. Flat grind, thin apex, distal taper towards the tip, swept belly up towards the tip which makes it super thin on the tip perfectly for stabbing. Weak tip though. This cuts in all cases allways 4 times as easy and better than my scandi grind tanto blades. Same 440C steel bbut different geometry. I only do an 260 grit burr to the other side of the Ganzo 729 and then deburr it carefully at the other side as no burr is to feel on eighter side. Then only strope it on a piece of leather carefully and it cuts paper after that. Thats good enough. I do 22.5 degrees on the flat part of the blade and deburr each side then do the belly and tip manually on the 260 grit wet stone. Be carefull with the tip and belly not to change angle. Leather stroping after that and it cuts paper. This geometry mostly uses the tip and only part of the belly for cutting cheese, pizza and cooking - the flat part is basically never used for cooking. Awesome design and engineering.
This was so interesting! As someone who had zero knowledge in this subject, I was a bit hesitant to watch but I learned so much! Also, after this I get to watch a video of someone shaving with an axe. I couldn't have known this morning that my night would end in this way. Thanks Sam!
I've seen people cut tatami with completely dull longswords that cut fairly well because the sword had such a good blade geometry so I'm a strong believer that it's very important that you get your geometry right.
i think you have the terms mixed. the knife or blade geometry is what makes it sharp. Blades/envies are sharp. Edges are KEEN. That's the lingo I've always known. Well designed kitchen knives are still sharp and cut ingredients well even when the edge is DULL.
Man I love this format! Please do many more!! Sam, what edge would you suggest for a kitchen knife that will do slicing of meats and chopping of vegetables?
@@SamTownsBladesmith thank you for the reply Sir. I will dig a little deeper. I've been sharpening and restoring blades for some time now. But decided to delve into the world of knife making... I have all the basic equipment I'll need(I think) I just need to go and get some gas for the forge😎👌🏻 Thanks again. I look forward to learning more from you🙏🏻
I’d be interested in your take on handle design. I have my views, but a couple of times those views have shifted due to what someone said about what makes a handle work well.
I would be interested to learn about how a blacksmith is able to maintain symmetry while forging a blade. Edit: or if not maintain, attain in the final product.
Speaking for myself and not Mr Towns, i'll tell you that as we forge out blades, we are constantly checking our bevels to ensure they're centered properly. Its actually quite easy once you get the hang of forging; you get the idea of how much "work" you've done on one side of a bevel and where you've been doing the work, which you then try to replicate on the other side. Additionally, once you've forged your bevels out to final thickness, its quite easy to put your blade in a vice and use scrolling tongs or pliers to selectively center small deviations in your edge/center line. If you're doing a brut de forge blade (one that is forged to very-near final dimensions) its much more important; whereas most bladesmiths will forge out a little bit thicker to increase the likelihood of surviving the quench without cracks/warps, in which case you'll be grinding the final bevels in and small corrections will come very easily. Hope that helps :)
HUzzaaaahhhh! The first Chalk Talk! Like and shared. Very thorough!
Sam, the information you just shared is basically the holy grail of knowledge and what needs to be understood to make high quality knives that preform.
Great information. Well done Sam
Great video very informative. If I could recommend a topic for another one of these Chalk talks is Distal tapering. You often notice that modern bladesmiths who make reproductions of historical knives and swords usually don't take into account the distal tapering of historical blades and often make them way too thick completely changing how the piece handles and fells in the hand compared to originals. They make them look the same but have completely different dynamics.
Great talk and I appreciate how you got somewhat into the weeds on this. You're quickly becoming one of my favorite blacksmithing/bladesmithing channels.
Thank you very much for this perfect explanation of the importance of blade geometry! Thank you! 👍😉
Brilliant!! Thank you so much. Scientific clarity. Love it!! The science or lack of it behind stabilizing wood scales would be a really interesting topic🙏🙏
Great to see you on a shorter version than the Saturday live streams... Not that they're not good just to long for me, seeing where I live and all.
And as always great content in this new chalk talks series!!!
Thanks Sam.
Hope you are feeling better.
Take care!
Looking forward to more chalk talks. 👏👏
wow, super detailed and easy to understand lesson! first 20 seconds, automatic sub. I would suggest as another lesson 'practicality of fantasy knives - benefits and downsides of designs'.
I've missed these lessons. Thank you for putting it out there.
This was another superb video. You are an excellent teacher. I'm going to be recommending your channel to my nephew who recently got interested in bladesmithing.
Fabulous video Sam I enjoyed it very much.
Thanks Sam, really appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience
Pretty interesting talk. As I am still learning about perfect knife geometry this is very value-able. Would really like to see you pushing this further and explaining S-Grinds and companions.
Thank you Sam very helpful stuff !
A lot of stuff I've never thought about (and some I have). Learned a lot. Thanks Sam...
Great info Sam. Thanks man. A good topic for another chalk talk might be blade anatomy/terminology- edge, spine, choil, tang etc etc. then you could drill down some more - hidden tangs, through tangs, full tang, threaded tang. Blade styles - clip point, drop point trailing drop point. Could be a good one? Whatever you do I’ll watch it 👍
Great information Sam and well explained as always. Really like this format support the comments below for additional topics. Looking forward to the next instalment.
Cheers
Great information, don’t need to apologise for great work
Thanks for being awesome Sam!
Great lessons, I love it! Definitely love how much dedication is put into this video.
Thank you very much.
Great series mate, well thought out material and excellent presentation
Two videos into your channel (this and the Busso Bowie forging) and i really believe you are one of the best out there. Well done
Whooohooo!!! Feeding the algorithm.
Well done sir. Great information.
Great video sam, very concise and clear.
Phenomenal! Thank you!
Great video Sam. You rock
Thank you for your commentary very informative 👍
Thanks for explaining
Saved this video!one more very educational,thank you!
Rusty or not, you covered your subject comprehensively, and, dare I say it, you seemed pretty sharp yourself!
Thanks Sam, great content. I did learn something!
Great video!
Wow,non so come mai ho visto questo video solo ora😮,sei stato eccezionale,in Italia si tengono tutti i segreti per se,video molto istruttivo e grazie hai sottotitoli ho capito alla perfezione,bravo davvero e grazie💪🔥
Thank you, that was awesome
Thats why I chose the Paramilitary 2 due to its blade geometry. I actually bought the PM2 clone Ganzo 729.
I dispatched my dog with it an the blade went in between the ribs like butter and out even easier.
That sold me to this blade geometry and I ordered some more of these Ganzo. Flat grind, thin apex, distal taper towards the tip, swept belly up towards the tip which makes it super thin on the tip perfectly for stabbing.
Weak tip though.
This cuts in all cases allways 4 times as easy and better than my scandi grind tanto blades. Same 440C steel bbut different geometry.
I only do an 260 grit burr to the other side of the Ganzo 729 and then deburr it carefully at the other side as no burr is to feel on eighter side. Then only strope it on a piece of leather carefully and it cuts paper after that. Thats good enough. I do 22.5 degrees on the flat part of the blade and deburr each side then do the belly and tip manually on the 260 grit wet stone. Be carefull with the tip and belly not to change angle. Leather stroping after that and it cuts paper. This geometry mostly uses the tip and only part of the belly for cutting cheese, pizza and cooking - the flat part is basically never used for cooking. Awesome design and engineering.
This was so interesting! As someone who had zero knowledge in this subject, I was a bit hesitant to watch but I learned so much!
Also, after this I get to watch a video of someone shaving with an axe. I couldn't have known this morning that my night would end in this way.
Thanks Sam!
That is an awesome video mate! This will help a lot of people!!!
Great information Sam
Thank you
I've seen people cut tatami with completely dull longswords that cut fairly well because the sword had such a good blade geometry so I'm a strong believer that it's very important that you get your geometry right.
Awsome vid
Next topic. Toughness vs hardness? Tie that into heat treatment? and then grain management 😁 I'd watch that.
i think you have the terms mixed. the knife or blade geometry is what makes it sharp. Blades/envies are sharp. Edges are KEEN. That's the lingo I've always known. Well designed kitchen knives are still sharp and cut ingredients well even when the edge is DULL.
thanks Sam great i nfo for the novice !!
Man I love this format! Please do many more!! Sam, what edge would you suggest for a kitchen knife that will do slicing of meats and chopping of vegetables?
Wasn't " ramblely" to me. Great information, looking forward to more chalk talks>
Thanks for the heads up. Enjoyed the video.
A suggestion for a video would be heat treat, quench and or tempering, 👌🏻
I already have an extensive playlist on those! Thanks mate
@@SamTownsBladesmith thank you for the reply Sir. I will dig a little deeper.
I've been sharpening and restoring blades for some time now. But decided to delve into the world of knife making...
I have all the basic equipment I'll need(I think) I just need to go and get some gas for the forge😎👌🏻
Thanks again. I look forward to learning more from you🙏🏻
I’d be interested in your take on handle design. I have my views, but a couple of times those views have shifted due to what someone said about what makes a handle work well.
I would be interested to learn about how a blacksmith is able to maintain symmetry while forging a blade.
Edit: or if not maintain, attain in the final product.
Speaking for myself and not Mr Towns, i'll tell you that as we forge out blades, we are constantly checking our bevels to ensure they're centered properly. Its actually quite easy once you get the hang of forging; you get the idea of how much "work" you've done on one side of a bevel and where you've been doing the work, which you then try to replicate on the other side. Additionally, once you've forged your bevels out to final thickness, its quite easy to put your blade in a vice and use scrolling tongs or pliers to selectively center small deviations in your edge/center line. If you're doing a brut de forge blade (one that is forged to very-near final dimensions) its much more important; whereas most bladesmiths will forge out a little bit thicker to increase the likelihood of surviving the quench without cracks/warps, in which case you'll be grinding the final bevels in and small corrections will come very easily. Hope that helps :)
@@thezoidforge9211 "Surviving the Quench" Band name; called it!
@@peapotfairy love it!
More chalk talks!
Oh there will be, many more!
✌👍