P0AFA is terminal. It means one of lithium cells dipped below treshold. You can erase it and keep driving in mountain mode bit sooner or later it will fail completly.
Thank you for sharing this important information into the public space. Complicated vehicles are only complicated when you don't have the correct information.
Hi thank you very much for posting this repair, I have a 2013 volt still gracing the UK streets, I’m sure one day I’ll probably come across the same or similar problems. And your experience working on the Chevy volt & Vauxhall Ampera is priceless for helping other techs quickly resolve these problems. Great job. Many thanks🙏🙏🙏👍
This was so helpful. Yeah my batteries low is showing the engine light on it was showing like my idol wouldn’t go down my gas mileage even with a full battery charge was at 19 miles a gallon just on and on and on I took it to the shop Wilson, Chevrolet on Aurora in Seattle North Seattle, and they told me that the battery was good. It was just had a low charge on it. Keep an eye on it and, my number three cylinder spark plug was not working right so I’m getting it charge on it and I’m getting spark plugs redone should be done every hundred thousand miles as a used car you were so so helpful. Thank you so much.
I hate to break it to you, but the HV battery is not fine. Just you wait. 1000 or less from when you made this video, this volt will leave you stranded on the side of the road. The error you experienced is called Low Voltage lockout. When one of the 96 modules has an undervoltage it locks up the car from draining the battery further and damaging more cells. This happens when one of the cells can;t charge/discharge at the same rate as the rest of the cells. Anyways, when it happens again, just unlock the car by clearing the two codes and drive in Mountain mode from that day forward. Should keep you on the road for another year or so before you need a full HV battery replacement.
could you make a video on how to reprogram the instrument cluster? i tried the screen replace but did not work. New cluster works but has the dashes for miles. I see how to do it in the service manual but I am a little worried to do it
What's amazing (and sad) is the dealership couldn't figure that out. So the question is if I don't have a $5 -$15,000 scan tool is there a more reasonably priced one available?
I am not sure, as most of my experience lies in extremely cheap or extremely expensive scan tools. The HV codes should be in a function menu for the respective HV modules. If you find any, let me know and I will put it in the description. Also, there is the option of replacing the 12v battery and getting it towed to someone that has one. Probably a much cheaper option than the dealer. Thanks for watching!
It's probably less that the dealership *couldn't* figure this out, but that they likely wouldn't. I've read countless accounts from people who have taken their EVs or hybrids to shops, dealers included, who just keep the car for a day, probably without even looking at it, and go back to the customer to tell them it's something not worth fixing. It all comes from the wide prevalence of service techs who are just deeply offended that these kinds of cars even exist. There's still this push to punish early adopters and move them back to gas/gas only burning cars. I think they feel like they're sending a message that EVs are a bad idea by essentially withholding repair service. Same kind of thing happened decades ago, especially with small town mechanics, with regard to Japanese import vehicles. Old timers hated them and the people that bought them.
@sporktek I have also heard that happening as well. That’s why I think cars like this might be a good deal if you can find them this cheap. It is always a gamble however.
This is an old thread but I use a VXDIAG VCX Nano GDS2 and Tech2Win for GM from Amazon. There may be other options, but this has worked well for me on my 2014 Volt. You can reprogram modules/reset codes. Was able to fix a no charge condition from the battery coolant going low, reset those HV codes. Using the AC Delco 1 month subscription, I was able to update all the modules in the car to the latest as well.
To put it bluntly, u really know your shit! Amazing how knowledgable u are. I knew this on the Prius in the past. I MISS auto manuals you could buy from Toyota. I had one for my 97 Camry, a little over $100 for 2 big manuals. What can a DIY use? What state is your shop located? ANOTHER great video!! Looking forward to your next! 👍
If you see in the description, I have a link to a site you can buy a downloaded manual with. They have just about every car out there and it is cheaper than the paper manual. Also I am in the southeast US, but I am an instructor at a college and don’t take outside jobs anymore. Thanks so much for the compliment!
Thank you for helping and sharing your knowledge with us , I have 2012 volt and code P0AC4 and when I put in D and hit the gas the car will keep jumping, I hope you have solution for me bc I can't afford taking it back to the dealership, thanks
Do you know what diag tool I can buy that can plug into the second OBD2 CAN slot under the passenger side, its the HV energy management CAN. Also whats the model of your zeus?
I would like to clear codes on my 2012 Volt on Hybrid Control Module 2. I only have code P1E00 using my OBD2 scanner. Question is: which scan tool do I need to buy to properly read codes and ckear codes in hi voltage systems?
Thanks for showing us the menu on the scantool, you really helped my understanding of the system. I want to mention that you don't need to replace AGM with another (crappy overpriced) lead-acid battery. I replaced mine with a 30AH Lithium Iron Phosphate battery for about $70 (had to modify the battery terminal connection). These weigh almost nothing and should last the life of the car. I'm still dealing with the infamous "cooling sensor detects low coolant" permanent trouble code. Does your Zeus fix that issue too? I think it's a 0FFF code. IIRC!
My 2017 Gen 2 Volt is over 8 years old and still has the original 12v AGM. I've never had a car battery last this long. I bought a Norco booster jump and keep it in the glove box as a just in case. I've seen threads from the Volt forums of Gen 1 12V batteries going many years. I assume because the 12V has an 'easy' life as long as the car is started and allowed to keep it topped off. The Volt as I understand it does not Charge the 12Volt battery unless the car is turned ON. Even plugged in it does not send anything to the 12volt. The car must be ON for the DC to DC to send power back into the 12volt. I think this is a design flaw if true. I could be wrong though. I've never actually put a volt meter on the battery when plugged in.
Can this be done to the Cadillac ELR it’s been sitting for a year and a half now been to dealership and 2 others. The same thing happened. 12v went out then it wouldn’t run again. Dealership wants 21000 for a high voltage battery and said they would have to check the car after that
Sitting up that long, the HV battery is probably damaged. There are cheaper batteries out here than the dealer option. You can try this and see, since it wouldn’t be too expensive to do.
I’m just learning how to diagnose my hybrid volt battery. In one reading at 20 SOC with 1 mile left and the heat on blast my MV was 120, but when I left the car at rest for a half hour then restart with the heat on the blast, MV was 16. Which would you say is the right diagnosis?
2017 Cadillac CT6 PHEV and am getting an instrument cluster trouble code (yellow battery with a slash line through it) and I cannot seem to find anywhere what this means. Checked owners manual, service manual, and google and nothing. Can you tell me what this means? With this I am experiencing a high voltage lockout. I replaced the 12V voltage battery and reset the HPCM2, the vehicle started and I test drove the car and parked it. Went to start it again and received the same HV lockout. HPCM@ codes are all circuit low voltage codes. Any idea as to what this could be or what my next steps should be? Thanks for any info that you can provide.
I replace my 12v battery to. Everything is fine now. The only thing now, when i put on the display to see the battery pack is loading, directly the radio goes on. How can i Repair this....
I have a 2012 volt and I’ve put 2 brand new 12 volt batteries into the car but something continues to completely drain them. The car will start and run but shortly after the entire 12 volt battery dies. What do you think could be causing this problem?
I am in Mexico and no dealership near me wants to take on the repairs of a chevy volt 2017 model which I own. I was away for 5 months and when I arrived back the 12 v battery was dead. I replaced it and it worked for one day. The next day, it stopped moving in drive or reverse mode. The battery seems to be fine. Is it possible for you to help me remotely. Happy to pay for your time.
It looks as if after 6 months both the 12v AGM & the HV drive battery dropped way too low, hence the error code. I never let the drive battery drop below around 1 or 2 bars of the display. Remember that when you plug the charger in, the 12v battery charges at the same time as the HV drive battery. This keeps both batteries top up. as far as I’m aware 🙏
Same here. I've done ALOT of research. Car seems like a dream when working but is nothing more than a gigantic paperweight waiting to happen. I'm still twidling my fingers on whether or not to chance it.
#1 Will an AUTEL MAXISCAN MS309 give proper codes for a 2013 Volt? #2 Will the solutions you generously share for your 2011 Volt, work on a 2013 Volt? Thank you for these needed educational videos. Well done! 👏
Mr B my 2011 Volt wont charge, dealer says sensor on charger door is bad. Is this a DYI fix as they want $800 to fix . does this require changing the charger plug mechanism, or is the sensor a separate replacement? ( don't see any videos on this) Not sure it's something I can do ( but I am very handy). Appreciate a reply...
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thanks that's still too much for me. car is maybe worth $4k as it is. im suprised you did it without GM software that's how it seems everyone else has done it from everything I've read. DIY w vcx nano and gds2 subscription or chevy dealership...
So what's the least expensive tool i can buy or rent that can do full 'clear secured high voltage DTCs'? I am trying a VCXnano but GDS2 software keeps complaining of 'no valid lease found'. I have P0606 probably caused by 12V battery getting dead cell confusing the heck out of the ECUs.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I attempted to use my VCXnano dongle and cracked copy of GDS2, it seems to interface with the modules fine I can manipulate and see everything but clearing secured DTC in hybrid computer #2 it immediately came back
I have a 2013 volt similar codes. When I try to clear DTC based on your video it scans on my Zeus for a very long time without any give but my voltage shows 11.5v..... can you comment?
Don't let the car go down to 0 miles on battery before shutting it off. Keep is at 3 miles remaining or higher as high voltage battery ages this is more important
P0AFA is terminal. It means one of lithium cells dipped below treshold. You can erase it and keep driving in mountain mode bit sooner or later it will fail completly.
Thank you for sharing this important information into the public space. Complicated vehicles are only complicated when you don't have the correct information.
You're the Man!!! Fixed my wife's 2016 volt. Your advice worked like a charm!
Glad to help!
Hi thank you very much for posting this repair,
I have a 2013 volt still gracing the UK streets, I’m sure one day I’ll probably come across the same or similar problems. And your experience working on the Chevy volt & Vauxhall Ampera is priceless for helping other techs quickly resolve these problems. Great job. Many thanks🙏🙏🙏👍
This was so helpful. Yeah my batteries low is showing the engine light on it was showing like my idol wouldn’t go down my gas mileage even with a full battery charge was at 19 miles a gallon just on and on and on I took it to the shop Wilson, Chevrolet on Aurora in Seattle North Seattle, and they told me that the battery was good. It was just had a low charge on it. Keep an eye on it and, my number three cylinder spark plug was not working right so I’m getting it charge on it and I’m getting spark plugs redone should be done every hundred thousand miles as a used car you were so so helpful. Thank you so much.
I hate to break it to you, but the HV battery is not fine. Just you wait. 1000 or less from when you made this video, this volt will leave you stranded on the side of the road. The error you experienced is called Low Voltage lockout. When one of the 96 modules has an undervoltage it locks up the car from draining the battery further and damaging more cells. This happens when one of the cells can;t charge/discharge at the same rate as the rest of the cells. Anyways, when it happens again, just unlock the car by clearing the two codes and drive in Mountain mode from that day forward. Should keep you on the road for another year or so before you need a full HV battery replacement.
What is of description of Code your talking about thanks
th-cam.com/video/W2ATPHZqlwQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1tlz4Jshq6Pz4P8v@@CristoSalva2024
Do you know how to put it in mountain mode??
Drive Mode button 3 times?
Yyyyoooo so you’re saying just take it to the dealer and have warranty take care of it?
could you make a video on how to reprogram the instrument cluster? i tried the screen replace but did not work. New cluster works but has the dashes for miles. I see how to do it in the service manual but I am a little worried to do it
Thank you for these educational videos. I had my spark EV 2015 towed yesterday and unable to charge. I am recharging my12v battery first!
What's amazing (and sad) is the dealership couldn't figure that out. So the question is if I don't have a $5 -$15,000 scan tool is there a more reasonably priced one available?
I am not sure, as most of my experience lies in extremely cheap or extremely expensive scan tools. The HV codes should be in a function menu for the respective HV modules. If you find any, let me know and I will put it in the description. Also, there is the option of replacing the 12v battery and getting it towed to someone that has one. Probably a much cheaper option than the dealer. Thanks for watching!
It's probably less that the dealership *couldn't* figure this out, but that they likely wouldn't. I've read countless accounts from people who have taken their EVs or hybrids to shops, dealers included, who just keep the car for a day, probably without even looking at it, and go back to the customer to tell them it's something not worth fixing. It all comes from the wide prevalence of service techs who are just deeply offended that these kinds of cars even exist. There's still this push to punish early adopters and move them back to gas/gas only burning cars. I think they feel like they're sending a message that EVs are a bad idea by essentially withholding repair service. Same kind of thing happened decades ago, especially with small town mechanics, with regard to Japanese import vehicles. Old timers hated them and the people that bought them.
@sporktek I have also heard that happening as well. That’s why I think cars like this might be a good deal if you can find them this cheap. It is always a gamble however.
This is an old thread but I use a VXDIAG VCX Nano GDS2 and Tech2Win for GM from Amazon. There may be other options, but this has worked well for me on my 2014 Volt. You can reprogram modules/reset codes. Was able to fix a no charge condition from the battery coolant going low, reset those HV codes. Using the AC Delco 1 month subscription, I was able to update all the modules in the car to the latest as well.
@evibes512 good tip, thank you!
To put it bluntly, u really know your shit! Amazing how knowledgable u are. I knew this on the Prius in the past. I MISS auto manuals you could buy from Toyota. I had one for my 97 Camry, a little over $100 for 2 big manuals. What can a DIY use? What state is your shop located? ANOTHER great video!! Looking forward to your next! 👍
If you see in the description, I have a link to a site you can buy a downloaded manual with. They have just about every car out there and it is cheaper than the paper manual. Also I am in the southeast US, but I am an instructor at a college and don’t take outside jobs anymore. Thanks so much for the compliment!
Thank you for helping and sharing your knowledge with us , I have 2012 volt and code P0AC4 and when I put in D and hit the gas the car will keep jumping, I hope you have solution for me bc I can't afford taking it back to the dealership, thanks
Do you know what diag tool I can buy that can plug into the second OBD2 CAN slot under the passenger side, its the HV energy management CAN. Also whats the model of your zeus?
Great video, thanks for sharing! I just discovered your channel, Good stuff! I'm looking forward to more videos on the volt.
Great car, also the Ampera
I would like to clear codes on my 2012 Volt on Hybrid Control Module 2. I only have code P1E00 using my OBD2 scanner.
Question is: which scan tool do I need to buy to properly read codes and ckear codes in hi voltage systems?
@@eddiekhorozian4280 I used an Autel maxisys and a snap on Zeus before. The Autel is a 906 if I recall.
@eddiekhorozian4820 where are you located?
Where are you located?
Thanks for showing us the menu on the scantool, you really helped my understanding of the system.
I want to mention that you don't need to replace AGM with another (crappy overpriced) lead-acid battery.
I replaced mine with a 30AH Lithium Iron Phosphate battery for about $70 (had to modify the battery terminal connection). These weigh almost nothing and should last the life of the car.
I'm still dealing with the infamous "cooling sensor detects low coolant" permanent trouble code.
Does your Zeus fix that issue too?
I think it's a 0FFF code.
IIRC!
My 2017 Gen 2 Volt is over 8 years old and still has the original 12v AGM. I've never had a car battery last this long. I bought a Norco booster jump and keep it in the glove box as a just in case. I've seen threads from the Volt forums of Gen 1 12V batteries going many years. I assume because the 12V has an 'easy' life as long as the car is started and allowed to keep it topped off. The Volt as I understand it does not Charge the 12Volt battery unless the car is turned ON. Even plugged in it does not send anything to the 12volt. The car must be ON for the DC to DC to send power back into the 12volt. I think this is a design flaw if true. I could be wrong though. I've never actually put a volt meter on the battery when plugged in.
Can this be done to the Cadillac ELR it’s been sitting for a year and a half now been to dealership and 2 others. The same thing happened. 12v went out then it wouldn’t run again. Dealership wants 21000 for a high voltage battery and said they would have to check the car after that
Sitting up that long, the HV battery is probably damaged. There are cheaper batteries out here than the dealer option. You can try this and see, since it wouldn’t be too expensive to do.
I’m just learning how to diagnose my hybrid volt battery. In one reading at 20 SOC with 1 mile left and the heat on blast my MV was 120, but when I left the car at rest for a half hour then restart with the heat on the blast, MV was 16. Which would you say is the right diagnosis?
2017 Cadillac CT6 PHEV and am getting an instrument cluster trouble code (yellow battery with a slash line through it) and I cannot seem to find anywhere what this means. Checked owners manual, service manual, and google and nothing. Can you tell me what this means? With this I am experiencing a high voltage lockout. I replaced the 12V voltage battery and reset the HPCM2, the vehicle started and I test drove the car and parked it. Went to start it again and received the same HV lockout. HPCM@ codes are all circuit low voltage codes. Any idea as to what this could be or what my next steps should be? Thanks for any info that you can provide.
I replace my 12v battery to. Everything is fine now.
The only thing now, when i put on the display to see the battery pack is loading, directly the radio goes on. How can i Repair this....
I have a 2012 volt and I’ve put 2 brand new 12 volt batteries into the car but something continues to completely drain them. The car will start and run but shortly after the entire 12 volt battery dies. What do you think could be causing this problem?
Onstar module pull the fuse
I am in Mexico and no dealership near me wants to take on the repairs of a chevy volt 2017 model which I own. I was away for 5 months and when I arrived back the 12 v battery was dead. I replaced it and it worked for one day. The next day, it stopped moving in drive or reverse mode. The battery seems to be fine. Is it possible for you to help me remotely. Happy to pay for your time.
You could have gotten a very low and bad agm battery though it was sold to you as new. We got a battery new installed from dealer went bad in a month
Thank you for all your work, but we hope that you will start broadcasting videos about electric cars
I would like to see the look on the face of whoever you bought the car from after they see this video and it was only a 12v battery replacement.
That's my goal too, bought mine off eBay. High voltage battery reports great health just need to clear these darn special codes.
where is ur shop ? thks .
It looks as if after 6 months both the 12v AGM & the HV drive battery dropped way too low, hence the error code.
I never let the drive battery drop below around 1 or 2 bars of the display.
Remember that when you plug the charger in, the 12v battery charges at the same time as the HV drive battery.
This keeps both batteries top up. as far as I’m aware 🙏
Any idea what code B2AAA means?
I was thinking of buying a used volt...looks very risky
Same here. I've done ALOT of research. Car seems like a dream when working but is nothing more than a gigantic paperweight waiting to happen. I'm still twidling my fingers on whether or not to chance it.
#1 Will an AUTEL MAXISCAN MS309 give proper codes for a 2013 Volt? #2 Will the solutions you generously share for your 2011 Volt, work on a 2013 Volt? Thank you for these needed educational videos. Well done! 👏
My Autel 906 would not work on this. Also I believe a 2013 is the same as mine. Thanks for watching!
Thank you!
@@AutoScholarwithMrB
Mr B my 2011 Volt wont charge, dealer says sensor on charger door is bad. Is this a DYI fix as they want $800 to fix . does this require changing the charger plug mechanism, or is the sensor a separate replacement? ( don't see any videos on this) Not sure it's something I can do ( but I am very handy). Appreciate a reply...
You need the GM software subscription correct? and which one?
I just used my Snap On scan tool, no GM software needed
@@AutoScholarwithMrB zeus is like 4k right? i dont think a regular elm can clear the secured codes...do you know? what software is it running
@@EricLumiereMusic I think my much cheaper Autel 906 can clear it as well.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thanks that's still too much for me. car is maybe worth $4k as it is. im suprised you did it without GM software that's how it seems everyone else has done it from everything I've read. DIY w vcx nano and gds2 subscription or chevy dealership...
@@EricLumiereMusic I bought a scanner for $49.99 from Amazon and it was able to pick up the code and clear it out. Car works fine.
hope you put in a 12volt Gel battery??
I put in the exact AC Delco battery this car requires, and it was the AGM.
Thanks I learned a lot,
So what's the least expensive tool i can buy or rent that can do full 'clear secured high voltage DTCs'? I am trying a VCXnano but GDS2 software keeps complaining of 'no valid lease found'. I have P0606 probably caused by 12V battery getting dead cell confusing the heck out of the ECUs.
I think some of the lower level Autels should be able to. My 906 can. It’s hard to say because I normally use my Snap On Zeus for things like this.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB I attempted to use my VCXnano dongle and cracked copy of GDS2, it seems to interface with the modules fine I can manipulate and see everything but clearing secured DTC in hybrid computer #2 it immediately came back
I have a 2013 volt similar codes. When I try to clear DTC based on your video it scans on my Zeus for a very long time without any give but my voltage shows 11.5v..... can you comment?
Voltage is definitely low. Is there any chance the 12v battery is low or faulty?
Did the codes come back ?
Not so far.
@@AutoScholarwithMrB thats awesome
Mr. B, where are you located and are you willing to diagnose and work on a gen 2 Volt Premier?
I am an instructor at a tech school in Augusta, GA. We are booked up until a month after Christmas unfortunately.
Amazing the dealership was so stupid to not check the 12V first! That is beyond ridiculous in my mind.
Good video
Thanks for watching!
Is it alright to address you as Mr. B? Have you produced a video concerning the Reduced Propulsion Warning, and how to fix it?
Mr. B is fine, and I have not had that issue with this car. Sorry!
Don't let the car go down to 0 miles on battery before shutting it off. Keep is at 3 miles remaining or higher as high voltage battery ages this is more important
My volt has a drive module problem anybody have an idea?
275k thats a good car going that long
@@crsp76691 still going too! I sold it to a friend and he has had zero problems.
I had 52 😅🤣🤣🤣