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THis is the first in a series on how to cope an I Beam. In today's video we will be going over how to correct an out-of-square mill cut.
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Thanks for sharing. Bob, anyone watching you whether in the classroom or on TH-cam gets to see an awesome instructor. This video reminded me of my uncle who first taught me to weld with oxy acetylene, then we moved on to stick, and then mig welding.
Now, that is a fine trick for squaring a beam. I had not thought to use 2 squares. Bob, you just saved me a lot of frustration and rework. Thanks!
Back in my pile driving days I had 9,12,14,16" I beams and had magnetic set ups that I made to expidite things.
Now I have the real small stuff 3,4,5" webbed H beam for outdoor furniture stuff at home. Your video is going to save whats left of my sanity Bob! My wife thankz you.
This is why I LOVE this channel, thanks Bob, I learn something every time!
As always Mr. Moffatt, these tips are perfect. Please continue with the excellent instructions.
This channel never disappoints. Great is Bob👍.
Very good that’s how it’s done. How about a video on an I-Beam splice with 7018?
I'm a shop foreman for a steel company and have been doing this nearly 20 years here. I have a few tweaks to your layout that i do. First i always have the beam with flanges on edge for layout, it is also my cut position. I use a framing square to transfer the layout from one flange to the other. The reason for that is i have had it where the ruler has become out of square when the lock screw wedge comes out of position, also i often i cut 12"+ beams and the compound square is impractical for that and yes i know their are 16" versions lol. I use compound square to transfer the lines down the inside of the flange then across the web from each side and then join in the middle. As for cutting i always cut the web first the reason for this is that i lose my lines from the slag of the cut when if i cut the flanges first. I try to have both sides of the beam supported when i cut but that isn't always possible. In that occasion i cut web then i cut the far side of flange down then i cut the near side upwards. I know some people may say the cut will back fill with molten slag from the cut as you ascend. But i find with a narrow kerf i and high o2 i don't have an issue. As i reach the end of the cut the whole unsupported section falls to the ground evenly. I hope this is useful to the readers:)
Good stuff. Thanks
I'm glad to help. But let me say your videos have been immensely helpful and instructive whose lesson i have brought to the work place. I'm very grateful for your channel and the time you have dedicated to bringing knowledge everyone, Cheers Bob:)
back in my millwright days i just used the square head up to get inside flanges then flip it down go across web. really fast and efficient .
I’ve always used a good ol fashion pipe wrap around! It works incredibly well!
Thanks Been cutting beams at work thanks for the help.
Excellent, just what the doc ordered
I wondered how to best transfer lines. Thanks for making it easy peasy.
Two Squares , How Cool Is That !!! Great Vid Mr. Bob !!! Looking Forward To See The Cut
For marking the inside I use a flexible magnetic material like they use for signs . Quick easy , also great for pipe and od shapes
FANTASTIC!!!! Wish I had thought of that 45+ years ago!
heres what i use www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SSZ4Q4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have to do this to beams and hss. A lot in the structural shop a lot. The cuts we get on material we receive is brutal !
Hell yeah man we make skids and bridges at my shop I always wondered how the fitters do it !
I'm making a 50t shop press and cutting some 4" I-beam with a portaband saw I cut square across the top and bottom 1/4"~ both square to each other than turning it on it's side I cut to the center running the blade through the 1st 2 cuts. It's not nice and smooth but its square and saves me the trouble of having someone else cut it for me.
I've never had one that bad that a little grinder work couldn't bring it in. Thanks Bob!
Good to know!
Thanks you!
I'm glad i have a big well-saw that can handle trim cuts rather than marking and cutting by hand...
Great info. Thanks for sharing. Dan
Possible video idea, how would/do you deal with depression while working or in school, i am in both, where you feel your best isn't good enough, especially in welding or other technical fields?
You never think your best is never good enough. No matter what anyone says. You're always learning new things and always bettering yourself each day. Just keep your chin up and tell yourself at the end of the day that you done the absolute best you could. And always make the next day better than the previous one!
Not thinking your doing good enough is a sign that you care about what you are working on and your craft in general. Keep learning and strive to do better each time you come across a similar task.
Have you tried the local strip club and or nightclubs?
I agree with these guys, even the strip club comment, but I've had those days too, when I was starting out in the field.. I know this sounds generic, but just keeping pushing and learning. When the other guys at school are messing around, you're burning rod and experimenting with different joints, techniques, etc. When you're at home you're researching (watching TH-cam) and looking for the next tool that's gonna make your life easier. Don't stop now, cause you're either getting better or you're getting worse. You got an entire career of ups and downs ahead of you, so lace the hell up and get it.
My club was a joke of course but, life is too short to worry about the negatives, dont focus so much on your weakness but try to focus on your strengths and making them b6
interesting, thanks for the lesson,,
Hey, how about a laser lever Bob? We use them all the time in carpentry to follow lines down and around obstructions
On say a 12" beam, We would mark it out like you did. Then cut out the web up to the radius top-n-bottom then take off the flanges.
Thanks Bob
Good stuff! Thank you!
Hello, how are you? Dear, I have a question, where did you get this pen? I mean the pen that I put the chalk in.
Use a beam pan for the web if you can find a small enough one
Hey Mr Bob !! What is that ADD on the wall / ProStar -Praxair / thing
Are you getting your welding rod and stuff from them ?????
If you do so or recommend them , let me know , because i have a store near by my home
Thanks
Serge ( from Mtl )
I mark both flanges then use a pipe wrap to mark the web
Yep! That's exactly how I lay one out also..
Ditto...
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SSZ4Q4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Or if you wanna spend a lot on a layout tool look up the flange wizard layout transfer tool. Marks a line all the way around in one shot
Bob... You did it backwards! LOL.
I usually square off the flange, down into the web, then connect the lines from the two flanges....
It really doesn't matter how anyone does it, just so the final product is correct!!!😎
Personal preference, I have never liked soap stone... Very rarely use it, but I use the hell out of silver pencils!!! Or on shiny stuff like aluminum and stainless, a Sharpie works great!!! They sometimes work well on descaled steel too..😎
Silver/Red/Blue -- colors of choice hehehe
@@GrandpaBill
Exactly...😎 Whatever color shows up..
How about a layout laser and cut off wheel?
How do I figure how to do a I beam dummy leg on a 4 in elbow?
How about a video testing the limits of a cheap harbor freight stick welder or certain rods?
Still looking for a video on laying out miters/cutbacks on I beams. 😕I
Im surprised you guys still use tapered flange beams here in Australia you rarely see them unless called for
Bob I'm building a car trailer from a old travel trailer and I'm having to extend it and I'm trying to square it and but the C channels are bowed and trying to make them straight any ideas.
Use a torch and a wet rag to cool on the long side and it will pull over. Work slowly and divide your work into evenly spaced segments.
Would love to see some videos of beam structural welding. Tons of content on pipe, let's see some structural content as well! Cheers @weld.com
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Nice bob 😁
steel banding
James E. Wagner JR. I use that stuff for a bunch of things but never thought of that!
I do the same. I'll also mark one up with my stitch pattern. I cut them up for shims. Or bend them into little spring clips as a third hand.
This works better than using a contour marker, they seem to flex too much.
I always hang my tool on the flange ^^
Looks like a modified square would make this much faster.
The biggest beam we had to work on was 900 POUNDS PER FOOT! We used the drop off for a coffee table until the boss said to cut it up for scrap. This was back in the early 70's.
Wow, my uncle is in the union and he said they never had to do those
We were Teamsters... The beam had to be specially ordered direct from the mill. It came in by rail and took all day to get it the 100 yards into the shop.
To straighten the beam we had to have 6 OX on a manifold and 3 really big yellow MAP tanks; The rosebud was 3" on a very long torch, plus we wired a 6 or 8 foot piece of angle to the body of the torch and that rested on a stand. Even then they had to wear double gloves because of the heat. I'm not sure 'where' it was used, but I think it was some kind of support column. The shop never did anything that big again. I'm thinking the beam was 4-1/2 to 5 foot tall..... but this was a LOT of years ago. (I'm pushing 73.) OH! Welding on it was done with 7018-1/4" and 3/16" flux core wire. (Hot is an understatement for this entire job!)
Well, here in Sacramento...I worked at the 'Palm Iron and Bridge Works' in 1985 as a Maintenance mechanic/electrician...we had some I beams for support/earthquake they were 16" by 16" wide flange, 465# per foot, flanges and web were around 3-4 inches thick...
Same deal on heating and welding...moment plates and connectors were tacked with 7018-1.4"...then .120 fluxcore for some more tacking...then 4 wire of .120 for sub-arc....beams were 40+ feet long.
Well the funny thing is it's that I'm only 9 years old and know shit that some 20 year olds
Well Doug, I guess the good old days are pretty much hidden... I just checked out Ryerson and Central Steel's websites and the biggest beam they have listed is 24X94#/FT; that measures out: 24.31 Tall/.515 WebT/9.065 FW/.875 FT. So the only way to get anything bigger is straight from the mills. OH! Ryerson bought out Central Steel.
No fair, leaving us on a cliff hanger.
Right nasty.
Never forget jet fuel doesn’t melt steel beams
I don't see a video.