Low Kv or High Kv Brushless Rc Boat - Deltaforce 35
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ย. 2024
- DELTAFORCE 35
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FLOPACK RX CAP PACK
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SPEKTRUM 4685 1350KV
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DX5 RUGGED
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SMC HCL-HP 7600 150C 4S
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Personal contact information ironcladedout@gmail.com
It is an interesting topic and each solution has it's pro's and con's. Like you, I like high rpm setups. I do prefer higher voltage and lower lV motors to achieve that goal, but above 6S, the esc's are very expensive.
One tip I learnt from my Wild Thing: if you extend your rudder behind the prop, your boat will be more stable! I guess you already know, but it's worth trying on this hull 👍.Cheers, DJ
The attention to detail in all the work you put in is awesomeness 👍 inspires me to put more work into my airplane builds and a lot of your info crosses into the airplane/car areas of the hobby and i appreciate it much 👍✌️
Thanks, B. As a beginner, this whole high/low KV and wire size, esc size, motor size, its a whole learning process. Even just taking care of the batteries right. But its fun once everything comes together.
Thanks B I got my little 22 inch mono to break 40mph over the holiday weekend been messing with trim tabs trying to get ride attitude right been doing a lot of tinkering testing and tuning #boatgang
I guess it all depends on what you want. Don't think there is really a right or wrong. I think when you run your boats for a while at a certain moment you get your preferences.
I personally like "high(er) kv setups". I feel it tends to be bit easier to go fast and affects handling bit less...
Great advice Big B- Yes the proper connectors and wire gage can decrease the chance of overheating, witch we all know is a bad loss of energy/efficiency. You can have to small of a wire gage or to large but a little larger is better than a little to small. (That’s a hard one to figure out) Think of an old resister type speed controller, the more metal the electricity has to run through the slower the boat and run the boat continuously at low throttle you were guaranteed to overheat your soldered points. However run your boat at full throttle with a near direct connection to your battery and you might smoke your motor!!! Interesting enough with a servo actuated speed controller and proper wire size we never had to use water cooling, we “open air cooled” our brushed motors. Look at what these guys in Thailand are doing brushless motors/ESC/batteries all open to the atmosphere when they drag race their long tail rc boats. Crazy right ?
But my whole rant is to get to the point of KV and motor timing. So- (lower timing/higher torque) should = less loss of rpm’s under load.
Thus- (higher timing/lower torque)
Should = more loss of rpm’s under load and more heat, less efficiency… isn’t this just a hobby- not for this nerd 🤣
So in short, we’re looking for less heat less loss of rpm’s under load, in theory, this can be achieved by turning down our motor timing. Time to tinker tune and test the timing theory 👍 BGFL
Hey Palehorse, to your point, then there is no need for timing adjustments if they don’t change anything.
THE APPLICATION OF MOTOR TIMING: Ryan clearly states beginning at about 5:39 into that video “decreasing the timing gains higher torque at the cost of rpm’s” this I’ve always known, however these adjustments are not large changes, to that point and this maybe splitting hairs, I wonder if by changing the timing (lower timing) can I go faster with more torque within the same setup. This will probably be minuet and as such not worth dialing in more or less timing to get 1/4 of a mph. I’ve always thought of timing adjustments as a way of making a system more efficient, less heat more run time. Your thoughts ?
Semantics, we can agree on that !
I am in the process of testing as I type.
First up 0 degrees, however I just realized I can’t turn the timing down only up from 0
I was hoping for degrees of negative but however my default timing seam to be 19 deg. HobbyWing Seaking 120a
I see what you mean, at 0deg. I got 51mph at 7.5deg. I got 52mph with one less pass before high temp cut out.
My goal here has been to see if I can go faster with less kv within the same set up, I am of an old school mindset, having run boats with gear reductions to go faster (more torque=less loss of rpm under load) . However from what you said I’ll get that result from a larger dia motor and or somewhat lower kv with larger props. I do plan on testing with timing a little more. Higher timing smaller props. 👍
THANKS FOR THE INFO B. THAT WAS GREAT. I WAS JUST THINKING ABOOT KV MYSELF EH!
This is a great topic honestly
Yo B. Sick vid!! I smoked a collet on my MG 36 today, Lincoln lake MI!! Cracked down the middle two will be here tomorrow. What would cause that??
Collet? It could have been that the cable was crimped, basically over tightened at some Pont, or wasn't tight enough and the cable was spinning in the collet.. is the cable okay? Does it look misshapen? If so you may need a new cable so it doesn't happen again. Proboat couplers aren't all that great to start with.
Great information thanks Big B 👍
Hwy Big B!! I just recently bought a boat like the one i your video. So do you always run it on 6s?
I've always run it on 6s, up until here recently I converted it to 8s. I've had this boat about 5 years now.
It’s like Déjà vu all over again…….
Exactly lol
I I usually have several videos I'm editing at any given time, accidentally uploaded this video unfinished, I apologize
@@IRONCLADRC Just having a bit of fun at your expense. It's all good......
I got rid of the low voltage cut off And run low timing on my d wind 1650 kv 8s 1917 abc but it is a rigger.
No cut offs any more just don’t go past 6 passes
Lvc is off, I've been running auto timing, Any other timing it'll power cut even with small props
I’m looking at this hull right now, thinking either a 4074 2250kv or a 4082 1900kv and that 150A FC esc. I want to walk that line, run it on 6s for speed runs and 4s for chill days. Too much??
Would you go better ESC or a lower kv motor in this case? Budget will play into it but I’m just curious.
I'd go 4082 1900, I ran that setup and it's perfect with the FC 150 on 6s 2250 will run hot on 6s may be perfect for 4s but 6s it's a little much, this is a larger hull
Does that ZTW power cut even with a Capacitor bank like a Flo-Pack?
I haven't tried a cap pack on it yet but I've read in a few places guys trying cap packs didn't get rid of the issue, I think the power cut is part of the safety protocol designed into the speed control
Hi, what size are the fins? Thanks
Large sized turn fin from OSE