Hi John, glad to see someone showng the specifics of testing an appliance. However you could be about to open a can of worms on the portable appliance test (PAT) industry. well I hope you do actually, perhaps you should demonstrate the procedure for testing an appliance and show us just how easy it is to get wrong. As you rightly said the inspection component of the PAT is the most important part. I attended a site and was shown a fridge that had been tested and passed by a PAT operative and was amazed to find that it had been passed dispite the fact that it had a missing cover from the connections into the compressor. Its my guess that the fridge wasnt moved and even looked at from the rear just plugged into the tester button push lead clipped to hinge and onto the next one. Hope you feel its a worth while subject to cover with a lot more detail thanks for the vids John all the best Sean
Hi Love your videos. I’m.a lampshade maker and I’m making some leads with a pat tester. If I have a plastic bulb holder but with metal connections inside do I still connect the croc to the outside? Thanks
Your last lamp video finally motivated me to install one of those cheap ebay lamps outside under a car port! 3A switched FCU (with no flex outlet, used holes in the side) off the load side of the existing garage FCU (off RCD protected ring main), in T&E, then flex from switched fused spur to junction box behind the light and to the flex of the light. The waterproof gromet on the light was too small for the flex I wanted to use so I couldn't run the flex from the FCU into the light. Do you see any problems with my method of installation? The junction box is under a carport and unlikely to get wet, the only problem I can think of is insects entering the junction box and shorting out on the terminals?
Lats PAT job I quoted for I was undercut by £1.20 an item. The person who got the job used to be a bus driver until he went on a 2 day pat testing course!
Assuming you've got a 3A fuse in the plug of that lamp, isn't there a danger of blowing it with a 25A test? If not, how long would you expect a 3A fuse to pass 25A without blowing?
The earth wire (CPC) is required on class 1 equipment (metal casing) the ideas is; let's say on this piece of equipment the live wire comes in contact with the casing (fault). Because we have the earth wire effectively connected to the neutral at the star point of the transformer the current will have a very low impedance to this point. While this is happening high current will be running through the MCB (fuse) at the consumer unit and thus the MCB will operate and clear the fault in a required time; usually depending on the system 0.2 seconds for the final circuit. However there will be discrimination between the fuse in the plugtop and MCB. Most systems in the UK require Rcds on sockets so usually this will operate before the MCB unless it's an LN fault.
The Clare machine is much more satisfying to test with - chunky buttons, clunks and glowing lamps. Given that almost eveything is a SMPS these days, would you dare use the flash probe to test them? What about a USB ‘wall wart’, testing between L+N and USB outlet?
USB supplies should be able to withstand a high voltage, as they still contain a transformer (although a very small one), and the inputs should be isolated from the output.
I literally never miss a video. Just curious as to what your background in electrical / electronic work is John or if anyone in the comment section knows I'd appreciate it. I aspire to be as good as this.
Great detailed test John. Pat testers should take note on the specifics here.
Hi John, glad to see someone showng the specifics of testing an appliance. However you could be about to open a can of worms on the portable appliance test (PAT) industry. well I hope you do actually, perhaps you should demonstrate the procedure for testing an appliance and show us just how easy it is to get wrong. As you rightly said the inspection component of the PAT is the most important part. I attended a site and was shown a fridge that had been tested and passed by a PAT operative and was amazed to find that it had been passed dispite the fact that it had a missing cover from the connections into the compressor. Its my guess that the fridge wasnt moved and even looked at from the rear just plugged into the tester button push lead clipped to hinge and onto the next one. Hope you feel its a worth while subject to cover with a lot more detail thanks for the vids John all the best Sean
Knowing how the lamp works only adds to its beauty.
My testing - If it doesn't go bang, it's working, if it goes bang, do it again... :)
Hi
Love your videos.
I’m.a lampshade maker and I’m making some leads with a pat tester. If I have a plastic bulb holder but with metal connections inside do I still connect the croc to the outside?
Thanks
(7:45) - Now it's in the "on" position, are you able to remove the bulb?
(Without switching off first?).
Yes, and when removed the switch moves to the off position.
Your last lamp video finally motivated me to install one of those cheap ebay lamps outside under a car port! 3A switched FCU (with no flex outlet, used holes in the side) off the load side of the existing garage FCU (off RCD protected ring main), in T&E, then flex from switched fused spur to junction box behind the light and to the flex of the light. The waterproof gromet on the light was too small for the flex I wanted to use so I couldn't run the flex from the FCU into the light. Do you see any problems with my method of installation? The junction box is under a carport and unlikely to get wet, the only problem I can think of is insects entering the junction box and shorting out on the terminals?
Flex should not be run from load side of FCU as there is no strain releif, but if the cable is clipped to the wall then it's fine!
When would you need to do a PI or DAR insulation resistance test, as opposed to the short term tests shown here?
Thanks John
Good job, as always.
Lats PAT job I quoted for I was undercut by £1.20 an item. The person who got the job used to be a bus driver until he went on a 2 day pat testing course!
JW = legend
Assuming you've got a 3A fuse in the plug of that lamp, isn't there a danger of blowing it with a 25A test? If not, how long would you expect a 3A fuse to pass 25A without blowing?
The 25A test is only testing the earth, it is not passing through the phase wire, so the fuse is not a concern.
🤔
Lester Electronics Earth wire has no fuses anywhere. It should keep conducting at any case.
The earth wire (CPC) is required on class 1 equipment (metal casing) the ideas is; let's say on this piece of equipment the live wire comes in contact with the casing (fault). Because we have the earth wire effectively connected to the neutral at the star point of the transformer the current will have a very low impedance to this point. While this is happening high current will be running through the MCB (fuse) at the consumer unit and thus the MCB will operate and clear the fault in a required time; usually depending on the system 0.2 seconds for the final circuit. However there will be discrimination between the fuse in the plugtop and MCB. Most systems in the UK require Rcds on sockets so usually this will operate before the MCB unless it's an LN fault.
John, do you recommend smart meters? My energy company says I should have one. They seem controversial however so I'm unsure.
The Clare machine is much more satisfying to test with - chunky buttons, clunks and glowing lamps.
Given that almost eveything is a SMPS these days, would you dare use the flash probe to test them? What about a USB ‘wall wart’, testing between L+N and USB outlet?
USB supplies should be able to withstand a high voltage, as they still contain a transformer (although a very small one), and the inputs should be isolated from the output.
I literally never miss a video. Just curious as to what your background in electrical / electronic work is John or if anyone in the comment section knows I'd appreciate it. I aspire to be as good as this.
I feel trolled by John
So much safer than North American lamps, which do not have an earth connection. Plugs are polarized, but not earthed.
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