It's not about how many days out you aerate, it's about reaching the 30% mark. I aerate every day until the yeast has consumed 30% of the fermentable sugars. Usually that's 3 or even 4 days out from pitching. I also feed with Fermaid O each time I aerate. Along with good temperature control and decent sanitation, it makes for very happy yeast and a very clean ferment. That means less nasty stuff when you distill.
I've watched this a few times over the years. Clearing agent - If you just let your wash sit till around day 10 won't it clear itself in the 12% range? Post filtering - Again if you keep it in the 12% range is there any value to filtering the distallate? 2nd Day aeration - I would guess that this makes sure you have an extra robust yeast culture before the anaerobic/alchohol making phase but isn't a common step. What do the yeast companies have to say about aeration? (We cant all test our cultures in a lab to ensure 30%).
I’d love too however since that video we started a bottle silk screening company and launched or vodka. But I do love making videos, so we will see, lol.
awesome video. I use basic bread yeast at about a 1.08 gravity. 4 gallons of water, 2 bags of store sugar, 3 tbs yeast and 2 tbs of nutrient. Yeast pitched at 35* I then pour it between 2 pails 10 times for oxygen. It takes about 7-10 days at 28* to get to 9-10%. Do I need nutrient?
I recon you will speed up the process if you add nutrient and diamonium phosphate. Do you need it? Hey you are getting results. The diamonium phosphate will help it along.
So you don’t add no yeast nutrients maybe toss some raisins in there or some tomato paste but I normally use the same yeast but I buy nutrients for it because it needs some thing to feed off
What about adding nutrients? Also I would recommend a PH balancer like calcium carbonate to keep the PH from crashing after 2 days. Is that too much info for a beginner video maybe? Otherwise great video and thanks for the info!
@@mustyditch4703 how much sugar? If your are heading for over 15% then a locked ferment can occur. Ph as mentioned is important, choice if yeast also. Daddy should be fine to 15% but above that use a good yeast nutrient and Dextrose rather than sucrose. Dextrose will always brew cleaner but you have to add 10% more than sucrose.
I've made thousands of sugar shines , I posted the method on my channel, but it's the simplest thing ever30g yeast, 3kg sugar 18litre water and a bit of Napa cabbage(300g) that works as a natural yeast nutrient. Nothing else finishes in a week starting gravity is1060 finishes .990 ....8% wash. Makes perfect neutral even from pot still.. The Napa cabbage does all the o2 work for you
I ferment open but covered without an airlock. The co2 that’s produced forms a protective layer. I’ve done this in Barbados where I live and also in Germany (summertime). In a closed container, when the liquid inside cools and contracts and forms a vacuum, for instance when the temperature drops at night, an airlock prevents air from being sucked in to restore atmospheric pressure. The air that is sucked in may bring in things harmful to the fermentation, dust, bacteria, spores, whatever u can imagine. If I were putting a fermenting bucket in a general use cupboard overnight, I would use an airlock, but if I have a dedicated workspace that’s kept clean, I wouldn’t use it. I’ve gotten foam-over with beer and wine with no problems in the final product...just don’t try to put the foam back in 😅 I’m new to distilling so I’m here to learn.
I've seen many people use a paint stirrer (this one looks like a paint stirrer too), just look at what's around and buy one you like just for your mash/wash mixing.
Hi Hawke, I enjoyed your video. I have made a sugar wash before. QUESTION: can you use aluminum vessel to cook down your grains or cracked corn etc,etc.or does it have to be SS?
Ol George on barley and Hops has a great answer for this age old question. Aluminum is a ferrous metal making it totally appropriate for distilling. Of course it oxidizes and so does all metal, it contains no bad stuff as many will have you believe. I will warn you however, depending on the finish of said aluminum, it can scorch easily.
@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 what the hell are you saying " Aluminium is a ferrous metal" bullshit.. A metal with the descriptor “ferrous” means that it has iron in its composition. (Fe) . Aluminium does not contain iron. A magnet will not stick to it. As for cooking (or fermenting) in uncoated aluminium, well it has been linked to early onset Alzheimer's and if not highly polished it deposits Aluminium oxide into the wash. That is why you must not use Aluminium in the manufacture of a still. Bloody hell mate you are dangerous ( not to mention sloppy and careless). How can you ever hope to get consistency and a repeatable outcome quality with those ad hoc measurements? Tis better to remain silent and let the world think of you as an idiot, than open your mouth and put the entire question beyond any doubt.
Check for videos on it, plenty using it with positive results. Btw turbo carbon is the same as turbo clear is it not. Turbo clear has carbon, the black gunk in part A.
@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 your correct, and thank you. The pack actually states the full ingredients... Pays to read occasionally eh. The turbo clear is part A and turbo carbon is part B, so very much different from each other... Used together yes but not the same.
Lol I love your layed back approach....im a small hobby distiller in a grey state when it comes to distillation laws and I run ether my 5 gallon pot still or my 17 gallon columb still and im a corn whisky and bourbon guy and I love making my sour mash bourbon with 55% corn and biggest problem I see is people using to much nutrients ....litteraly if its under 15 gallon i don't use anything besides maby a tspn of tomato paste and my gravity always goes from 1.1000 to 0.9950 ....if that ain't complete then idk what is lol ....I also airrate with my home made pine mash stick lol .....k.i.s.s ....keep it simple stupid
Hawke Prohibition Stills I’ve been pretty lucky so far. I was it good or a bad thing. I know another man GEORGE TOLD ME THE SOMETHING LOL I JUST FOUND YOUR CHANNEL, LOVE IT❤️👍 thank my friend
Adding oxygen with your stirring after adding the yeast does not make sense to me. Yeast can be both aerobic and anaerobic if you want them to make maximal ethanol wouldn't you want to minorize the oxygen since aerobic breakdown of sugars gives off carbon dioxide and breaks down the ethanol to do so? I can see the logic if the purpose is to get the yeast population high at first by adding oxygen that makes their division easier but eventually the oxygen in the water will run out and they will have to switch to anaerobic digestion.
You answered your own question. You are correct. Yeast only produce ethanol in an anaerobic state. You introduce the oxygen to get the yeast a good head start in reproducing to get a good healthy colony. When the oxygen is used up by the yeast, they quit reproducing and get to work on that ethanol! I have never heard of opening it back up to do it on the 2nd day, but everyone has a method to their own personal madness. I aerate it like he does at the beginning, but then it's closed up until it's ready. Never had a problem. This is just his preferred method/opinion, and you know what they say about opinions... lol.
Are sure about that "golden rule" if you can drink it it's fine? City water sucks, Ph is always over 7, full of tds, chlorine, etc. Bad water wont work, you risk losing the whole mash or making a crap product before you even start. Just tasting it compared to spring water or distilled is a no brainer at sixty cents a gallon. Use the best water corrected to mid 5's (yeast thrive and other microbes don't at lower ph), adjusted right before it goes into the fermentation vessel. Why oxygenate after pitching? Before yes definitely but not after, not until degassing. Yeast only consume oxygen during the aerobic phase and NOT during the anaerobic phase. No oxy until degassing. IMO you should always measure / weigh your ingredients as exacting as you can for consistent results and it provides solid data for adjusting with precision, taste, content, expected end results, etc.
You mention tdr.in the tap water...what is it.? . Not sure this guy is still in business.... I requested pricing for some still parts a while back..no answers
lol, bro, you have no clue..... I have used standard city water straight of the tap for YEARS, and HUNDREDS of gallons of finished product and have NEVER had any issues. you worry WAYYYYYYY too much about ph and crap like that. it literally does not matter. seriously, it does not matter at all. stop trying to "science" stuff that just doesnt need it. remember, people have been distilling for hundreds of years without all your fancy "science" junk. distilling just doesnt need it.
Using grains, for me, creates a problem. What do you do with all the spent grains? Too much to flush. (Ask my plumber when I stopped up the whole shebang with corn) I throw it in the yard and it just sits there for days and days. Birds here don't like it until it's been there a while, and the obvious evidence of what you're doing just sits in the open. I don't have any pigs or chickens, but still enjoy my hobby of making alcohol. I've been doing so with sugar washes for quite a while now. When I first started with just a small pot still, I would get a taste I didn't like and no matter how many times I re-ran it, it was still there. Even ageing that stuff for over 3 years reduced the taste but didn't make it go away completely. I tried many different yeasts. I've never had a good experience with a "turbo yeast" yet. I've since graduated to a much better/bigger column still. The taste that I got with my pot still is gone and I have made many sugar wash runs with AMAZING results. I have a bunch of gallon mason jars. I buy bags of chipped up "Major whiskey maker" smoking chips which is just chewed up whiskey barrels. I wash those well in a sink with cool water, dehydrate them dry again, then add to the jars, fill with alcohol, and seal up in my shed for a year or more. I have yet to hear anything but, "That's amazing! I can't believe you MADE that yourself!" I've been asked to sell it, but never sold a drop. It's hard enough to just keep up with enough for myself and buddies that come over! lol. I leave a few gallons of water and the dead yeast in the bottom of my fermenting barrel after a run and just throw in scalding hot water on top to make sure all the old yeast is dead. Yeast can mutate over time and give you bad results, so I just use new every time. Yeast nutrient is mostly just dead yeast, so I never add any. 1 lb Fleischmann's yeast, 100 lbs sugar, and 50 gals water. It ferments down to .995 to .997 for me. I let it work and settle for about a month to clear up, then run it. Stripping run first, then spirit run. No grains to dispose of. Short story long, sugar washes can work amazingly well, but everything matters. Water maters, yeast matters, distilling equipment and methods matter, ferment temperatures matter, cuts matter... Ask 100 distillers a question, and you're likely to get 100 different answers and most will swear that only THEIR way is right. Find what works for you. If something messes up, start over and throw it in with the next run! Peace!
Sugar wash is just for a first run to get a base distillation that you add into the proper distilling run with your true fermentation that has the flavor. the sugar distilation is just used to boost the proof in your boiler and give a better yield of final product without wasting unecessary amounts of grain.
I do like a dude looking like a sugar cookie but this is crappy sugar wash advice...not to mention fermentation in general. Chloramine/chlorine mitigation Too high starting gravity Too low initial pitch rates Nutrients PH buffering Clearing the wash...really? 100% this wash is stalling at like 1.070 Campden tab to kill chloramine. Sugar to 1.080ish or 19-20 brix. 30 grams yeast minimum...50g if you have it for 15gal. Exogenous DAP, B complex, Epsom salt and Fermenaid K. Oyster shells or Calcium Carbonate to buffer the enviable pH crash which will render the yeast inoperable. No solids, why are you clearing a wash? and with anything Turbo. Everything Turbo makes hooch taste like Bigfoot's dick. Cold crash if you like to drop out the DADY but it's not necessary. Once it's done chewing it'll floc out.
A chemist talking about bigfoots dick, i want to know what you do sir? I did mention in comments what the Ph should be, my video skills and patience did not allow me to re edit, lol. So much has happened since then and skills have refined greatly, videos in the future will as well. I have much more to talk about.
You've got a good sense of humor! I enjoyed the vid.
I appreciate it brother!
Love it. Oxegen is important for yeast growth. But bad if you want alcohol. Never heard of oxygenating on 2nd day before. :)
It's not about how many days out you aerate, it's about reaching the 30% mark. I aerate every day until the yeast has consumed 30% of the fermentable sugars. Usually that's 3 or even 4 days out from pitching. I also feed with Fermaid O each time I aerate. Along with good temperature control and decent sanitation, it makes for very happy yeast and a very clean ferment. That means less nasty stuff when you distill.
If you want to take it a step further invert the sugar and takes away a lot of the sugar bite. Happy distilling!
Hi, would be nice if u showed the final product. Thanks for sharing.
Luv that you use the metric system
I've watched this a few times over the years. Clearing agent - If you just let your wash sit till around day 10 won't it clear itself in the 12% range? Post filtering - Again if you keep it in the 12% range is there any value to filtering the distallate? 2nd Day aeration - I would guess that this makes sure you have an extra robust yeast culture before the anaerobic/alchohol making phase but isn't a common step. What do the yeast companies have to say about aeration? (We cant all test our cultures in a lab to ensure 30%).
Thanks for not editing. Made me laugh, at myself cause I’ve done it
I was just going to come and say this. like knowing that real stuff can happen and its not always gonna be perfect lol.
So it appears you add the sugar in with the sanitizer? He didn't say anything about pouring the sanitizer water out and rinsing.
The sanitizer can be left in and doesn't effect the process
When will you make the new VIDEOS youre talking about . the follow up....please do
I’d love too however since that video we started a bottle silk screening company and launched or vodka.
But I do love making videos, so we will see, lol.
That tow motor done up in the copper is fn mint!
awesome video. I use basic bread yeast at about a 1.08 gravity. 4 gallons of water, 2 bags of store sugar, 3 tbs yeast and 2 tbs of nutrient. Yeast pitched at 35* I then pour it between 2 pails 10 times for oxygen. It takes about 7-10 days at 28* to get to 9-10%. Do I need nutrient?
I recon you will speed up the process if you add nutrient and diamonium phosphate.
Do you need it? Hey you are getting results.
The diamonium phosphate will help it along.
If your getting 9-10% you definitely do not need nutrients.
So you don’t add no yeast nutrients maybe toss some raisins in there or some tomato paste but I normally use the same yeast but I buy nutrients for it because it needs some thing to feed off
Hey
What’s ideal temperature for fermentation?
What’s ideal ph?
Next time I'm in Alberta I want to drink moonshine with this dude 😂 Dying laughing!
Deal!
Loved it! No nonsense, just fact!
Great video! Thanks. Lookin forward to more.
😂ur the best man! Throwing sugar everywhere n shyt😂
Great job really well done video
City water has way too much other chemicals in it such as fluoride to use in shine
here is a thought. use a soud vied {?} to creat a water jacket around the fermenter?
That would also work.
Where did you get that stir stick?
Hardware store. Its a paint stirrer
Looking forward to your video about refractometers and Brix levels using the Brewers friend calculator.
What about adding nutrients? Also I would recommend a PH balancer like calcium carbonate to keep the PH from crashing after 2 days. Is that too much info for a beginner video maybe? Otherwise great video and thanks for the info!
Keep it simple stupid method, worked for me and it will work for everyone else J.Pilon.
@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 Nope ... dady, sugar and water in my parts will not ferment.
Musty Ditch need to ensure your ph is from 4 - 5.5. I neglected to say this as my water is adjusted before use.
@@mustyditch4703 how much sugar? If your are heading for over 15% then a locked ferment can occur. Ph as mentioned is important, choice if yeast also. Daddy should be fine to 15% but above that use a good yeast nutrient and Dextrose rather than sucrose. Dextrose will always brew cleaner but you have to add 10% more than sucrose.
Musty Ditch you need to use yeast nutrients if you use daft yeast.
4:30 lol distilling ain't easy sometimes, Thanks for the upload
Thankyou for all the great info. I was just wondering if you want to oxygenate the water why dont you use a little aquarium stone?
I've made thousands of sugar shines , I posted the method on my channel, but it's the simplest thing ever30g yeast, 3kg sugar 18litre water and a bit of Napa cabbage(300g) that works as a natural yeast nutrient. Nothing else finishes in a week starting gravity is1060 finishes .990 ....8% wash. Makes perfect neutral even from pot still.. The Napa cabbage does all the o2 work for you
this is similar to making beer but i came here looking for potent alcohol to power my model t ford
Is tap water fine if it has chlorine + fluoride in it?
after a day or 2 all the chlorine will be gone
Do you ferment open top? no airlock etc?
I ferment open but covered without an airlock. The co2 that’s produced forms a protective layer. I’ve done this in Barbados where I live and also in Germany (summertime). In a closed container, when the liquid inside cools and contracts and forms a vacuum, for instance when the temperature drops at night, an airlock prevents air from being sucked in to restore atmospheric pressure. The air that is sucked in may bring in things harmful to the fermentation, dust, bacteria, spores, whatever u can imagine. If I were putting a fermenting bucket in a general use cupboard overnight, I would use an airlock, but if I have a dedicated workspace that’s kept clean, I wouldn’t use it.
I’ve gotten foam-over with beer and wine with no problems in the final product...just don’t try to put the foam back in 😅
I’m new to distilling so I’m here to learn.
How many gallons does your pot hold, you said you were going to add 20 kg of sugar. That should calculate out to be about 40 pounds.
What proof will something like this some out to be?
Videos are harder then you think 😆✔️
Where can I get a mixing whip like the one you are using in your drill ?
I've seen many people use a paint stirrer (this one looks like a paint stirrer too), just look at what's around and buy one you like just for your mash/wash mixing.
Hi Hawke, I enjoyed your video. I have made a sugar wash before. QUESTION: can you use aluminum vessel to cook down your grains or cracked corn etc,etc.or does it have to be SS?
Ol George on barley and Hops has a great answer for this age old question. Aluminum is a ferrous metal making it totally appropriate for distilling. Of course it oxidizes and so does all metal, it contains no bad stuff as many will have you believe.
I will warn you however, depending on the finish of said aluminum, it can scorch easily.
Thanks cheers. I did invest in a 40 qt SS induction ready pot w/lid.
@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 what the hell are you saying " Aluminium is a ferrous metal" bullshit.. A metal with the descriptor “ferrous” means that it has iron in its composition. (Fe) . Aluminium does not contain iron. A magnet will not stick to it. As for cooking (or fermenting) in uncoated aluminium, well it has been linked to early onset Alzheimer's and if not highly polished it deposits Aluminium oxide into the wash. That is why you must not use Aluminium in the manufacture of a still. Bloody hell mate you are dangerous ( not to mention sloppy and careless). How can you ever hope to get consistency and a repeatable outcome quality with those ad hoc measurements? Tis better to remain silent and let the world think of you as an idiot, than open your mouth and put the entire question beyond any doubt.
@@cjw7924 thank for the info, I would've bought aluminum 🤣
@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 Aluminum is "ferrous"???
Hawke Prohibition Distilleries hi man great setup !!
Appreciate it brother!
@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 some day love to have a still like that
Just found your channel love it👍❤️
Country Charlie well I appreciate it country Charlie!
Have you ever done this before ?
My water comes out in the 8s on the ph scale. I don't adjust it but maybe it will help
Yeah, if you take it down to the 5 range will help a lot.
@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 I am going to start checking and adjusting ph. I already do that with some gardening applications
Glad I'm not the only one. (Sugar) :-)
Hi, is it 30Degrees Celsius? the water
Yes 30degrees Celsius, that's the ideal temp for yeast to do its thing
yes and 86 F
I use still spirits yeast etc do u recon turbo carbon okay or what
Barry Tipton I used turbo carbon once, I didn’t have much success, lol
Check for videos on it, plenty using it with positive results.
Btw turbo carbon is the same as turbo clear is it not.
Turbo clear has carbon, the black gunk in part A.
@@mrbrown3546 Turbo clear is not carbon, its fish parts and gross stuff but it works.
@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 your correct, and thank you.
The pack actually states the full ingredients... Pays to read occasionally eh.
The turbo clear is part A and turbo carbon is part B, so very much different from each other... Used together yes but not the same.
Lol I love your layed back approach....im a small hobby distiller in a grey state when it comes to distillation laws and I run ether my 5 gallon pot still or my 17 gallon columb still and im a corn whisky and bourbon guy and I love making my sour mash bourbon with 55% corn and biggest problem I see is people using to much nutrients ....litteraly if its under 15 gallon i don't use anything besides maby a tspn of tomato paste and my gravity always goes from 1.1000 to 0.9950 ....if that ain't complete then idk what is lol ....I also airrate with my home made pine mash stick lol .....k.i.s.s ....keep it simple stupid
Good video. Thanks for the info. I didn't know clean shaven Seth Rogan was into distilling
What about using turbo carbon before A AND B
Country Charlie I used it once and made a mess, haven’t used it since.
Hawke Prohibition Stills I’ve been pretty lucky so far. I was it good or a bad thing. I know another man GEORGE TOLD ME THE SOMETHING LOL I JUST FOUND YOUR CHANNEL, LOVE IT❤️👍 thank my friend
Great video
Chad Adam thanks man
Adding oxygen with your stirring after adding the yeast does not make sense to me. Yeast can be both aerobic and anaerobic if you want them to make maximal ethanol wouldn't you want to minorize the oxygen since aerobic breakdown of sugars gives off carbon dioxide and breaks down the ethanol to do so? I can see the logic if the purpose is to get the yeast population high at first by adding oxygen that makes their division easier but eventually the oxygen in the water will run out and they will have to switch to anaerobic digestion.
You answered your own question. You are correct. Yeast only produce ethanol in an anaerobic state. You introduce the oxygen to get the yeast a good head start in reproducing to get a good healthy colony. When the oxygen is used up by the yeast, they quit reproducing and get to work on that ethanol! I have never heard of opening it back up to do it on the 2nd day, but everyone has a method to their own personal madness. I aerate it like he does at the beginning, but then it's closed up until it's ready. Never had a problem. This is just his preferred method/opinion, and you know what they say about opinions... lol.
Nice video
Appreciate it:)
Do you want ants? Because that's how you get ants!
HellRazer Antz? Where the fuck you live?
30 degrees ? I'm guessing Celsius so about 80 degree Fahrenheit?
86
Are sure about that "golden rule" if you can drink it it's fine? City water sucks, Ph is always over 7, full of tds, chlorine, etc. Bad water wont work, you risk losing the whole mash or making a crap product before you even start. Just tasting it compared to spring water or distilled is a no brainer at sixty cents a gallon. Use the best water corrected to mid 5's (yeast thrive and other microbes don't at lower ph), adjusted right before it goes into the fermentation vessel. Why oxygenate after pitching? Before yes definitely but not after, not until degassing. Yeast only consume oxygen during the aerobic phase and NOT during the anaerobic phase. No oxy until degassing. IMO you should always measure / weigh your ingredients as exacting as you can for consistent results and it provides solid data for adjusting with precision, taste, content, expected end results, etc.
You mention tdr.in the tap water...what is it.? .
Not sure this guy is still in business.... I requested pricing for some still parts a while back..no answers
@@capitaldd5840 TDS? total dissolved solids.
Your country must suck if your water is that bad.
lol, bro, you have no clue..... I have used standard city water straight of the tap for YEARS, and HUNDREDS of gallons of finished product and have NEVER had any issues. you worry WAYYYYYYY too much about ph and crap like that. it literally does not matter. seriously, it does not matter at all. stop trying to "science" stuff that just doesnt need it. remember, people have been distilling for hundreds of years without all your fancy "science" junk. distilling just doesnt need it.
Water control, Ph control, nutrients , mmmm
Do More reserch
this is a basic video, he said that multiple times
It doesn’t seem like he’s done this before 🤷♂️🤷♂️
What I was thinking.
how would a beginner know what the fuck a ' brix ' is ??
Sugar makes a puke liquor, Do a corn throw in some malted barley leaving out the sugar makes for a smooth drink.
Using grains, for me, creates a problem. What do you do with all the spent grains? Too much to flush. (Ask my plumber when I stopped up the whole shebang with corn) I throw it in the yard and it just sits there for days and days. Birds here don't like it until it's been there a while, and the obvious evidence of what you're doing just sits in the open. I don't have any pigs or chickens, but still enjoy my hobby of making alcohol. I've been doing so with sugar washes for quite a while now. When I first started with just a small pot still, I would get a taste I didn't like and no matter how many times I re-ran it, it was still there. Even ageing that stuff for over 3 years reduced the taste but didn't make it go away completely. I tried many different yeasts. I've never had a good experience with a "turbo yeast" yet. I've since graduated to a much better/bigger column still. The taste that I got with my pot still is gone and I have made many sugar wash runs with AMAZING results. I have a bunch of gallon mason jars. I buy bags of chipped up "Major whiskey maker" smoking chips which is just chewed up whiskey barrels. I wash those well in a sink with cool water, dehydrate them dry again, then add to the jars, fill with alcohol, and seal up in my shed for a year or more. I have yet to hear anything but, "That's amazing! I can't believe you MADE that yourself!" I've been asked to sell it, but never sold a drop. It's hard enough to just keep up with enough for myself and buddies that come over! lol.
I leave a few gallons of water and the dead yeast in the bottom of my fermenting barrel after a run and just throw in scalding hot water on top to make sure all the old yeast is dead. Yeast can mutate over time and give you bad results, so I just use new every time. Yeast nutrient is mostly just dead yeast, so I never add any. 1 lb Fleischmann's yeast, 100 lbs sugar, and 50 gals water. It ferments down to .995 to .997 for me. I let it work and settle for about a month to clear up, then run it. Stripping run first, then spirit run. No grains to dispose of.
Short story long, sugar washes can work amazingly well, but everything matters. Water maters, yeast matters, distilling equipment and methods matter, ferment temperatures matter, cuts matter... Ask 100 distillers a question, and you're likely to get 100 different answers and most will swear that only THEIR way is right. Find what works for you. If something messes up, start over and throw it in with the next run! Peace!
Sugar wash is just for a first run to get a base distillation that you add into the proper distilling run with your true fermentation that has the flavor. the sugar distilation is just used to boost the proof in your boiler and give a better yield of final product without wasting unecessary amounts of grain.
I do like a dude looking like a sugar cookie but this is crappy sugar wash advice...not to mention fermentation in general.
Chloramine/chlorine mitigation
Too high starting gravity
Too low initial pitch rates
Nutrients
PH buffering
Clearing the wash...really?
100% this wash is stalling at like 1.070
Campden tab to kill chloramine. Sugar to 1.080ish or 19-20 brix. 30 grams yeast minimum...50g if you have it for 15gal. Exogenous DAP, B complex, Epsom salt and Fermenaid K. Oyster shells or Calcium Carbonate to buffer the enviable pH crash which will render the yeast inoperable.
No solids, why are you clearing a wash? and with anything Turbo. Everything Turbo makes hooch taste like Bigfoot's dick. Cold crash if you like to drop out the DADY but it's not necessary. Once it's done chewing it'll floc out.
A chemist talking about bigfoots dick, i want to know what you do sir? I did mention in comments what the Ph should be, my video skills and patience did not allow me to re edit, lol.
So much has happened since then and skills have refined greatly, videos in the future will as well.
I have much more to talk about.
Thats how you get Ants Bro ;/
1k likes!!!
Is this a comedy routine?
ANOTHER ROUGH DAY ,, HUH ?
Ya maybe don't drink before making drank, less mess 🤣
sugar daddy
this was kind of boring and not that informative. sry.
You are not too smart I see